Installed Autocom Active-rider Plus System

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NEW ADDED RADIOS!!


I spent a good portion of the morning installing an Autocom system. I found the instructions to be strait forward, however the equipment was sort of cheaply made. cheap plastic housing and knobs seemed to me to sort of a low quality. The sound however has not been so after testing - it is indeed good sound.

This unit uses 4 pole inputs in three auxiliary ports, and a 4th to be used for a radio that is on a wired connector. You have to sort out what you have that you want to connect to the system then order the right parts that connect to the autocom. I have a cheap ass radar detector that works well enough that I wanted to connect, and a zumo 550 that I use for pretty much everything else, music, phone, and of course gps. I love the bluetooth phone ability. Maybe some time in the future I will get a radio as well but for now its not something I would use. It also comes with a headset, mic boom, and a pillion connector - pillion head set sold separate.

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I started with the Zumo connections, this required a zumo box to take signal from the stereo output and a mono mic input for using the phone. These two wires are then routed into a small box that has a 4 pole lead on the other end that plugs into the active-plus.

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Zumo wires routed on the left side

I decided the wires where too unruly if I hung them separately so I wrapped them with electrical tape together and routed them along side the OEM wire loom and some other existing accessory wires I had installed previously. Then I zip tied them to secure them in place. I must have used up two rolls of electrical tape on this project.

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radar detector encased in a plastic bag behind the right fairing new mono lead and power wires wrapped in electrical tape

I removed the radar detector from under the left fairing and installed a new mono lead long enough to reach the system under the seat and hot glued it to the radar detector, I had previously drilled holes in the bottom of the detector case and then screwed into them bolts - then drilled bolt holes into the side of the inner plastic fairing to mount the radar detector, I did a writeup on it a year ago, anyway the power wires where just loose and I put the whole thing inside a heavy duty plastic bag to keep it dry, yes it still works inside a bag and behind the fairing! It works pretty darned good too for a $100 cheap ass Cobra detector. I have a switch on the top of the inner fairing to shut it off when it gets too busy in town. I again wrapped the power leads and the mono lead in electrical tape to secure the wires better and to prevent chaffing.

I had installed a switched power fuse block long time ago I used the same ground on the autocom as the radar to prevent a ground loop hum, however I do get engine hum so I will have to look into some kind of filter for the radar.

This thing has vox control so you just speak and you can hear yourself though the speakers, it mutes the music. There is a little adjustment screw to tune the vox to the correct level so that you don't have false inputs on the mic. I have the wire loom routed behind my back protector in my aerostich suit, I don't like wires hanging loose when I ride slapping around, so I routed them inside the suit. I am used to this from my old system, a bunch of stuff I hooked up together on my own.

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This is how I had the radar detector before, the leads where hanging separate and the bag was thinner and taped shut with duct tape, I used a hot glue gun this time.




This a picture of the accessory fuse box before I added the speedohealer and the autocom, so powering the unit was just a simple job of soldiering leads to fork connectors.


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You can see the zumo adapter next to the active plus unit and how I taped the wires together.

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http://www.autocomamerica.com

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Update

It was suggested that Midland radios where a good option, waterproof and inexpensive, with frs/grms capability, the set I got also have wx NOAA weather channels as well (very handy here in Colorado where the weather changes on the hour sometimes) I got a set of two from Radio shack they came with a couple of vox head sets and a push to talk button. grms radios are high power and require a special FCC licence, FRS is probably more than adequate, but these Midland GTX800 radios are rated for 28 miles in ideal conditions, real world 5 miles is more like it.

I wasnt sure how I was going to deal with the radios, I wanted to be able to shut them off and adjust the volume as I rode or stop to set it up on the fly for different channels, group codes, privacy freqencies and such. At first I was going to just leave them in my tank bag but then I was looking at my junk drawer and I found the ram mount I used for my old gps - a quest unit that died. It thought I could just attach it to my ram ball on the gas tank!

I drilled some holes in the battery cover and slapped on some velcro to help absorb shock and it worked!~

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Added frs/grms midland radio set attached a ram mount to the battery cover to fasten it to the bike

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The battery cover just snaps into place it is really secure

I decided to move the zumo to the left clip on so that I can reach it with my glove better, less of a reach, I tend to change music and stuff more often than I thought I would, so I made it more accessable on the left clip on using a special ram ball mount off the clip on bolt hole.

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Zumo and Midland radio configured for riding

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ram mounts one on the gas tank and one on the left clipon - along with all the wires zip tied into place

I played around with it and had my Dad talk to me on the other radio - sounds good and it transmits clear!

Good stuff
here is a link to the radio shack midland set I got. I had to get a universal radio connector from autocom in order to make it work, routing the line along the side of the tank. I wouldnt say they are waterproof but advertized as such radio shack does not make that claim they reducethe rating to water resistant. At $64.99 for the set they are more affordable than most. I like the fact that you can use the nicad battery they include or use aa batteries, I have a whole bunch of rechargable aa batteries so I use those instead of the nicad pack

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.js...rentPage=family

http://www.autocomamerica.com/product_deta...productid/25725
coiled or strait

Thank you for the pictures and descriptions! I plan on picking up an active-plus as well as a Zumo 550. I will also be plugging in a Kenwood TH-F6A (ham radio modified to include GMRS transmit ability) to the Autocom (they make a cable for Kenwood radios too).

Do you ever feel the need to change the volume level on the autocom? I suppose you could change it on the zumo itself instead, right? I'm just wondering if it'd make sense to figure out a way to relocate the autocom volume knobs onto the fairing.

How does the Radar detector work from behind the fairing? Aren't they line of sight dependant? I would like to install one, but I have two issues:

#1. How do you hear it?
#2. The line of site question

Why did you pick the Autocomm Active Rider Plus system?? What else did you look at? I am have been struggling with this issue for months. On the Wing no problem but on the VFR ???? And do I want to spend the MONEY?

Thanks

[image: View Post]Tightwad, on Apr 7 2008, 12:22 PM, said:

How does the Radar detector work from behind the fairing? Aren't they line of sight dependant? I would like to install one, but I have two issues:

#1. How do you hear it?
#2. The line of site question


Radar, being radio waves, does not need direct line of sight. Any materials will block the signal to a degree, but it can detect through plastic just fine.

Laser, on the other hand, needs direct line of sight.

He hears it by plugging the speaker connections from the radar detector into the autocom, so the audio comes over the headphones (I'm guessing.. that's my plan).

[image: View Post]Tightwad, on Apr 7 2008, 01:22 PM, said:

How does the Radar detector work from behind the fairing? Aren't they line of sight dependant? I would like to install one, but I have two issues:

#1. How do you hear it?
#2. The line of site question

1) It works fine, they are line of sight dependant however the fairing has no metal in the paint to scatter most of the signal, sure some of it gets deflected however it is not enough to make a big difference. No more than behind the windscreen - its not visible spectrum it goes right through. I got a ticket in Ammarillo TX and after reading the ticket found that it is illegal to have a detector there, I had took off my helmet and placed it over the detector so the cop did not see it. I am sure he would have give me a summons had he seen it, so I hid it away behind the fairing, got the notion from dutchinterceptor. I have been warned a number of times of cops running radar and slowed down to keep legal, however instant on poses a threat - which is what happend in Ammarillo, I got his signal alright but he had me and his lights where on as soon as I passed.

2) How do I hear it? the mono speaker output on the detector is plugged into the autocom now, the unit sorts out and mixes the sound inputs from several sources and you hear the radar signal in the speakers, mine has different sounds for different types of signal, and it gets more intense the closer the radar is to the detector. It can get annoying in town when there are other detectors around, or automatic door openers, or those portable speed radar trailers the cops put out and leave there on the roadside.

[image: View Post]BonusVFR, on Apr 7 2008, 01:37 PM, said:

Why did you pick the Autocomm Active Rider Plus system?? What else did you look at? I am have been struggling with this issue for months. On the Wing no problem but on the VFR ???? And do I want to spend the MONEY?

Thanks
I chose the plus since starcom was more expensive, however I think its better gear. There is also that german brand bohr each is similar in concept. The autocom I chose cause it was relativly affordable, and it is expandable if I want to add a radio. Autocom sells a unit just for rider and pillion, then this one, and a delux model that has more options, this one is the middle scale model. Like I said in the last thread I posted, the gov-a-ment is giving it out so I guess I could afford it! Either way the choice its gonna cost $300+ as you ad options. This I did for a better sound and the option to ad radio, I also want to be able to use my bluetooth phone with the zumo - hands free.

Hadn't thought about hot glue on the bag. Good idea!

I'm currently not using the audio on mine. I've got an led unit from Marc Parnes which works well. I just recently pulled my detector out of the fairing so I could take the bike in for the recall and it's still in good shape after several thousand miles. I cable tied it to the computer on the right side(6th Gen) and used a ziploc bag for weather protection. No tickets yet.

Looks good Miguel but if you add anything else to that bike you'll need to buy a trailer. :laugh:

Miguel,

I have pretty much the same setup with mine and it really works excellent, I've had the Zumo (first a 450 and then a 550) and it's nice having music on long trips, plus not having to look at maps or the GPS when turns come up since the audible turn by turn pretty much eliminates that need. With the 550 making phone calls is really cool too. I could have used that when I was looking for a hotel in New Orleans. I've got the active plus too and after a year it still works perfectly. I recently added Midland waterproof GMRS radios and that works really well too. Plus they were $70 instead of up to $300. It's going to be nice to be able to talk to my riding buddies.

Great write up!

Do the headsets only plug into the Autocomm unit or could you plug them into the Zumo/ipod direct.

[image: View Post]BonusVFR, on Apr 7 2008, 03:12 PM, said:

Do the headsets only plug into the Autocomm unit or could you plug them into the Zumo/ipod direct.


They plug into the autocom. This allows the autocom to mix other sound sources into what you hear.

It looks like I'll need:
Autocom
Zumo adapter
Kenwood adapter
PTT button cable
Earplug adapter (if you use earplugs instead of the headphones it comes with, you'll need the adapter that will let you plug a headphone jack into their cable).

Hey HS, you know you can use your ER6's with the Autocom if you buy this cord too, right??

http://www.autocomamerica.com/product_deta...productid/25785

The straight one is a little cheaper.

http://www.autocomamerica.com/product_deta...productid/25631

Oh since I took the detector apart I removed the laser sensor and soldiered in wire extensions that I then soldiered the laser sensor to and fished through a hole in the front fairing, its peers out into the wheel well


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[image: View Post]wera803, on Apr 7 2008, 07:59 PM, said:

Hey HS, you know you can use your ER6's with the Autocom if you buy this cord too, right??

http://www.autocomamerica.com/product_deta...productid/25785

The straight one is a little cheaper.

http://www.autocomamerica.com/product_deta...productid/25631
Yes I have it routed behind my back protector in my aerostich suit. I have the coiled cable

Maybe hold out for the new Autocom 2008 range that is due out in about 3 months or so.

Jbhayman

[image: View Post]BonusVFR, on Apr 8 2008, 05:37 AM, said:

Why did you pick the Autocomm Active Rider Plus system?? What else did you look at? I am have been struggling with this issue for months. On the Wing no problem but on the VFR ???? And do I want to spend the MONEY?

Thanks

[image: View Post]Jbhayman, on Apr 8 2008, 01:55 AM, said:

Maybe hold out for the new Autocom 2008 range that is due out in about 3 months or so.

Hm.. where'd you see this info?

I have the previous generation Autocom, the PRO-7 model. It's been wonderful, can't say enough good things about it. It's got a lot of miles on it, has been used heavily for several years now, but still works like new. I run either CB or FRS, and music. The truckers tell me that my mic sounds so good that they can't even tell I'm on a bike.

Prior to that I had a Chatterbox that gave me no end of trouble; it lasted only one season.

I went riding today and tested it out, at first the wind would activate the mic - so I pulled off and turned down the vox control and it worked better. I like that you can hear what you say, however I tend to sing to the music sometimes and that could get embarrasing if the radio is on. so far I like it, the instructions say to switch out resistors on the in ear phone connector box if you need more volume - I will do that.

[image: View Post]elizilla, on Apr 8 2008, 06:04 PM, said:

I have the previous generation Autocom, the PRO-7 model. It's been wonderful, can't say enough good things about it. It's got a lot of miles on it, has been used heavily for several years now, but still works like new. I run either CB or FRS, and music. The truckers tell me that my mic sounds so good that they can't even tell I'm on a bike.

Prior to that I had a Chatterbox that gave me no end of trouble; it lasted only one season.
:+1: I tried Nady and Chatterbox both. Neither of them were very good (this was back in the HJC-90 days though). I then went to a 5-pin Autocom system and loved it. About two years ago I upgraded to the 7-pin Autocom. Same great system with better sound. I've talked to people on my cell phone while going down the interstate at 80 mph. They weren't even sure I was on a cell phone let alone riding a bike.

The whine from the radar detector was too much so I got a noise filter from the electrical connection and a ground loop isolator

http://www.electricalconnection.com

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Noise filters, I used the universal one this is used for power to the radar, a transformer and capactor,

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This is the ground loop isolator - stereo, I ended up removing the connectors, and cutting the wires shorter and soldiering the leads together from stereo to mono, this is the same as the noise filter but its smaller and uses two transformers and capactors for different voltage/amps, this is connected from the speaker lead.

It was then that I found a mono isolator from escort - oh well my solution worked great, no more wirring, hissing or popping when I turn on the motor, It did however lower the overall volume of the detector but it was crazy loud as it was. Now the level is just about right



[image: Posted Image] this one is already mono and it used the correct size lead for a radar

http://www.escortrad...accessories.htm