Ok, I'm Stoopid... Chain Adjustment?

Ok, I'm stoopid... How do you adjust the chain tension on the VFR 6th gen? Is it near the sprocket or sumptin?

There is a spanner wrench with a flat extension tube in your tool kit. Loosen the pinch bolt at the aft end of the swingarm. Take the spanner wrench and set it into the toothed wheel on the swingarm side of the wheel hub. It works in either the clockwise or counter-clockwise direction, depending on how much adjustment needs to be put in or taken out if you set ti too tight. When you have the chain properly adjusted, remove the spanner and tighten the pinch bolt. All done.

I just did mine yesterday, first time ever. Clockwise to loosen and counter clockwise to tighten the chain.

SOTYOk, I'm stoopid... How do you adjust the chain tension on the VFR 6th gen? Is it near the sprocket or sumptin?

Have you looked in the owner's manual? I'm pretty sure it's in there. :blink:

The pinch bolt is a 17mm ....FWIW.. easy to do and NOTE you should NOT need to use a hammer n punch to move it as some have posted on here that previous owners had before them..

It is the easiest chain to adjust on any motorcycle made. Your owners manual explains the whole thing.

Torque spec on the pinch bolt is 54, btw.

SEBSPEEDTorque spec on the pinch bolt is 54, btw.

BTW, that is 54 Lbs-ft or 74 N-m

SOTY

If this is your first chain adjustment resist the urge to make it tighter than the spec 1"-1 3/8" at its tightest point.

Sometimes; n00bs to chain adjustment, think that tighter is better for they think it will stay in spec longer.........Tiz' not true. On the Loose side is better than on the tight side when it comes to chains.

Here's the adjuster ring you're looking for:

[image: vfr_hub.jpg]

Soichiro is right. The VFR's chain is trivial to adjust compared to standard swingarms.

VF1000RHere's the adjuster ring you're looking for:

[image: vfr_hub.jpg]

Soichiro is right. The VFR's chain is trivial to adjust compared to standard swingarms.

Is the pinch bolt the one just under and to the right of the arrow pointing to the adjuster ring in the photo? If so, then to tighten my chain I loosen that bolt, and turn the adjuster ring counter clockwise if I were looking at the bike from the swingarm side?

Looks like it's time to clean that chain. :dry:

Yes, the pinch bolt is the one you can see in the photo. Don't overtighten it either but do be firm, on't want that one coming loose as your chain could adjust itself on the run.... You don't turn the adjuster counterclockwise, per se, but in the direction necessary to achieve the desired affect, one way to loosen, the other to tighten, you'll see it loosen off or tighten up in a very obvious way anyways, just 1 mm of adjustment on the adjuster spanner will tighten or loosen that chain to a degree you wouldn't expect if you haven't seen it before. REal easy to overdo it either way.

Funny thing is on the VTEC, it's the opposite direction to tighten as it is on the 5th gen... go figure!!

It is well true that a chain is better off slightly loose than slightly tight, otherwise you'll wear it and the sprockets out quick fast.

I believe a new chain should have around 25 mm of free play. Just how this free play is measured seems to be a point of contention, as one can pull the chain down all the way to its full extent, but it can't be pushed up all the way as it hits the swing arm first... and the 25mm is supposed to be from one extreme to the other as I understand it. You will hear all sort of theories on the net about doing it with someone mounted on the bike etc etc, but I have never heard of it being done that way amongst the people I know and/or respect in the MC world in person... if it's an old chain with a few tight spots on it, it's better to have the tight spot in spec and the loose spot, by default, overly loose... if you can't or don't want to pay for a new chain and sprocket set yet... I'm currently squeezing a little extra life out of mine (80,000 km & I believe it's the second set since new, I know for certain I've done 40,000 km with this set), and have enjoyed playing around with different tensions and noting the difference, seeing as I will be swapping this one out, I figured I may as well experiment and learn some...

It really is surprisingly easy on the VFR.

Here's a tip for adjustment: set your adjuster wrench on the ring, so the hook is engaged in a tooth on the ring. Hold the wrench extension handle against the tire, and gently rotate the wheel and wrench together, just a little bit. Check the freeplay in the centre of the lower part of the chain, by moving the chain up and down. When the upper length of chain starts to move, then that's as far as you need to push it to determine the amount of slack. The slack/freeplay is the total amount of movement up and down and should be about 1 to 1.5 inches.

Here's another thread on chain adjustment.....CLICK HERE!!

The chain should barely touch the rubber guard on the swingarm. Is that a good and easy way to test the chain slack?

Sorry to resurrect a thread most likely left dead, but i didn't want to be accused of not using the search feature.....so here goes:

Yesterday as I was fiddleing around in the garage, I walked past my bike and happened to see the Center Stand. I got to thinking about those who convert their 6th gens to Catless exhaust, and I was curious what bump stop they had to figure out...so I bent down to look at it. As I moved the center stand I noticed that it was bumping my chain.....that couldn't be right!

I walked around to the left side (where all adjustment is taken on, and the side you use to index "Counter Clockwise" for those who are still unsure). The chain was so loose I could almost slide it off the rear sprocket! I had adjusted it a couple months prior, and know I need to replace it and both sprockets (no discussion about whether you need to replace sprockets or not, not starting THAT again), however for now I just needed to tighten it a bit so I could ride to work the next day, Chain Kit will have to be ordered. As I adjusted it, I was having a hard time understanding where to measure from/to in order to get 1-1.25" of free play.

The chain doesn't flex down much, unless i push from the top side, so it seems all slack is measured on the bottom section, flexing upwards. In 1 inch it would hit the swingarm (while on the Center Stand), so I wasn't sure if I was measuring at the right spot. I ended up erring on the side of a "a bit too loose" in the mean time, but the new Chain/Sprocket kits I would like to be more precise on.

So where is the right place to measure from? Do you just use your tape from ground to swingarm, then measure near the middle of the bottom section?

Check the slack midway between the sprockets while the bike is on the centerstand and always err on the side of being a little loose . Also spin the wheel around and check your slack at several points as you may have tight spots in the chain.

[image: ChainAdjustment.jpg]

Thanks Dutch...that's what made sense but it seemed to hit my Swingarm a bit too fast. Not sure I have that sticker on my bike...probably covered in dirt from the recent ice melt attempts.

For anyone that has had their posts in this thread DELETED - I did it.

I received a complaint about the content of the BS going on in this thread, I agreed with the issue - so I ended it.

Please - there is no need for garbage comments.

:dry:

Josh, hope this helps... you measure the slack just the way the sticker indicates... measure half way along the bottom run of the chain. As I mention above, the diagram on the sticker doesn't match reality. You can push downward on the chain to see the extent of its slack in that direction, but you can't (as displayed on the sticker) push it all the way up to the full extent as it hits the swingarm. Someone mentions it only just reaching the rubber guard on the underside of the swingarm,but in my experience, this is too tight. Not to worry. I guess Honda kept that in mind. :S

Measure the full play in the chain using the centre of the pivots as your reference point. I jam a tape-measure or ruler up against the bottom face of the swingarm and push down on the chain and measure where the pivots come to. Then subtract half the height of a link (= from the pivot point to the edge) and subtract that. This is your slack.

Turn the wheel with the bike in neutral and look for tight spots on the chain and adjust at these tighter spots to within spec. No point along the chain should have less than the recommended slack (25mm on the VTEC VFR). In my opinion the looser parts of the chain can have up to 35mm of slack with no real noticeable effects whilst riding... once this is surpassed, you will notice a rhythmic jerking or cyclic jerking effect whilst maintaining constant speeds and possibly unusual jerking effects whilst engine braking, changing gears will be less smooth.. etc etc... due to the larger difference between the tight and loose parts of the chain...

I believe that with the recommended tension, it is possible to separate the links from the rear sprocket's teeth, but obviously not very much, and definitely not to the point of clearing the teeth... oh yeah, another thing, I have seen the odd chain on a VTEC and 5th gen, which was almost resting on the centrestand when these bikes were resting on the sidestand... the real test is with the bike on the centrestand and no-one seated on it, but this is usually a sign of a loose chain (or a loose spot on a stretched chain).

Be doubly sure not to overtighten your new chain, you can stretch one to the point of ruining it on just one long one-day ride if it's too tight...

Put bike on center stand. Loosen pinch bolt.

Grab wheel and pull towards the rear. Tighten pinch bolt.

Check chain slack. Done. Couldn't be easier. :goofy:

VFR4LeePut bike on center stand. Loosen pinch bolt.

Grab wheel and pull towards the rear. Tighten pinch bolt.

Check chain slack. Done. Couldn't be easier. :blink:

"Grab wheel and pull towards rear"? If that was all the was required, wouldn't it loosen right back up? I figured that's what the eccentric was for, to loosen/tighten it. I still need a new chain, but was able to get the correct setting after refreshing myself of where to turn the eccentric....I don't have the right wrench in my kit, so a long screwdriver and a persuasion tool was required.

Tightwad

VFR4LeePut bike on center stand. Loosen pinch bolt.

Grab wheel and pull towards the rear. Tighten pinch bolt.

Check chain slack. Done. Couldn't be easier. :fing02:

"Grab wheel and pull towards rear"? If that was all the was required, wouldn't it loosen right back up? I figured that's what the eccentric was for, to loosen/tighten it. I still need a new chain, but was able to get the correct setting after refreshing myself of where to turn the eccentric....I don't have the right wrench in my kit, so a long screwdriver and a persuasion tool was required.

Thanks guys - this is most helpful. I am a noob VFR800 2005 owner (purchased in October). I wanted to lube my chain for the first time, but had a hard time getting the bike on the center stand (too afraid the bike will fall over while I struggle to get it up - I will get there). I also noticed while on the side stand that the chain in resting on the swingarm guide. So there was no space to pull the chain down to test slack. I assumed my chain is over loose. But it make sense now that I can ONLY say for sure when its on the center stand.

I must admit that I was ver disappointed at first, as I purchased this bike that was supposedly serviced by the dealer 1000km ago (28900km). The sprocket edge is however already inline with the outer edge of the move indicator - this means the chain has been adjusted to its fullest already. I hope that when I manage to get in on the center stand, the chain will prove to be in order.

By the way - do I need a torque wrench to get that pincher bolt tightened up correctly? My guess is yes.

SOTY

Ok, I'm stoopid... How do you adjust the chain tension on the VFR 6th gen? Is it near the sprocket or sumptin?

I was informed that i needed to order a 'longer' swing arm when i inquired about this.

blackbrainedjohnny

SOTY

Ok, I'm stoopid... How do you adjust the chain tension on the VFR 6th gen? Is it near the sprocket or sumptin?

I was informed that i needed to order a 'longer' swing arm when i inquired about this.

I think someone's messing with you head, use another dealer if that comment came from them.

Monk

blackbrainedjohnny

SOTY

Ok, I'm stoopid... How do you adjust the chain tension on the VFR 6th gen? Is it near the sprocket or sumptin?

I was informed that i needed to order a 'longer' swing arm when i inquired about this.

I think someone's messing with you head, use another dealer if that comment came from them.

It was a joke from a guy on here. Got me good though. i was dumbfounded for a minute with the thought of how expensive that new and 'longer' swing arm was going to be every 2000 miles. :mellow:

blackbrainedjohnny

It was a joke from a guy on here. Got me good though.

Is this your bike? :biggrin:

[image: 8319_1145480114811_1161754882_30380.jpg]

Auspañol

Funny thing is on the VTEC, it's the opposite direction to tighten as it is on the 5th gen... go figure!!

Maybe it's because the older VFRs tend to lower the rear ride height when you turn the hub eccentric to tighten their chains.

Many had gone as far as flipping their hubs and changing out or modifying a few botls in the way to do so to correct this. Maybe Honda finally listened to something we were saying.....

Beck

95 VFR

dutchinterceptor

Check the slack midway between the sprockets while the bike is on the centerstand and always err on the side of being a little loose . Also spin the wheel around and check your slack at several points as you may have tight spots in the chain.

[image: ChainAdjustment.jpg]

Curious......... the service manual for the 3rd/4th Gen lists a free play of 0.6-1 inch or 15-25mm why is there such a difference?

V4 Rosso

blackbrainedjohnny

It was a joke from a guy on here. Got me good though.

Is this your bike? :biggrin:

[image: 8319_1145480114811_1161754882_30380.jpg]

Ewwww :blink: ......i'd ride that thing and flip it into those trees in the background and start a big forest fire or something.....

That's just so prickly bad ass!!.......but maybe that's what the builder meant it to be...... :biggrin:

Beck

95 VFR

Dutchy

Curious......... the service manual for the 3rd/4th Gen lists a free play of 0.6-1 inch or 15-25mm why is there such a difference?

My guess would be that the length on the two bikes are different???????

One thing I don't see very often, but have seen, is when checking the bottom train of the chain, the bike should be in gear and turn the rear wheels backwards to tighten the upper train. Hold that position tight while checking the slack.

I lie on my left side 1st lining up so my eyes are in a position to read the soft tape measurer. Then find the master link on the chain and check the chain ( at about 4 or 5 places). During this I'll stick my right leg on the back of the wheel to hold it still giving me two hands to work with. I adjust to 1 and a 1/4" total movement( use the pin on the chain as my point of reference).(Total movement means to move the bottom train up and down while measuring

I'll get a pic in here to show how and where on the bottom train to check.

I'm sure there are peeps that know all this, but there some that don't....Like myself at some point in my life.(Thx, Seb)

[image: gallery_16535_4665_822284.jpg]

002

Beck

Auspañol

Funny thing is on the VTEC, it's the opposite direction to tighten as it is on the 5th gen... go figure!!

Maybe it's because the older VFRs tend to lower the rear ride height when you turn the hub eccentric to tighten their chains.

Many had gone as far as flipping their hubs and changing out or modifying a few botls in the way to do so to correct this. Maybe Honda finally listened to something we were saying.....

Beck

95 VFR

I have an 89 Honda hawk 650 that is the opposite as my 04 vfr.....and then Honda stopped listening to us when they designed and built the 7th gen vfr's :pissed:

Hey guys,

Just figured I'd add to the confusion.

I'm uploading the chain adjustment page from the 6th gen factory service manual which indicates that chain adjustment is done while on the center stand. The owners manual says to check it on the side stand, go figure. Anyway , fwiw see below:

[image: post-7188-0-73873600-1337548210.jpg]

6th gen ---- 25 - 35mm (1.0 - 1 3/8 inch)

5th gen chain slack says 20 - 30 mm (.8 - 1.2 inch)

3rd/4th Gen lists a free play of 15-25mm (0.6-1 inch)

-

hmmm -- :comp13:

Beck is a swarty one isn't he?

myke_w

The owners manual says to check it on the side stand, go figure.

What page does it say that? :huh:

myke_w

Hey guys,

Just figured I'd add to the confusion.

I'm uploading the chain adjustment page from the 6th gen factory service manual which indicates that chain adjustment is done while on the center stand. The owners manual says to check it on the side stand, go figure. Anyway , fwiw see below:

Rich

myke_w

The owners manual says to check it on the side stand, go figure.

What page does it say that? :huh:

My owner's manual for my 2004 says to check it on the center stand.

Here's good one- I decided to check and adjust my chain after reading this thread. Got out the Honda tools, loosened the pinch bolt, put the extention on the adjuster wrench, and couldn't figure out why it wouldn't work- it just slipped out. Granted it's been a while since my last adjustment. After struggling for about 5 minutes I realized I was using the wrench that was meant for rear shock adjustment. :pissed:

Rich

Here's good one- I decided to check and adjust my chain after reading this thread. Got out the Honda tools, loosened the pinch bolt, put the extention on the adjuster wrench, and couldn't figure out why it wouldn't work- it just slipped out. Granted it's been a while since my last adjustment. After struggling for about 5 minutes I realized I was using the wrench that was meant for rear shock adjustment. :pissed:

Chain sits on a big cam(rear sprocket hud assembly) cam down moves the cam further from the front sprocket, cam up moves the cam closer to the front sprocket ...................

Look at the T-shirt for the correct free play.

YES guys there IS a T-shirt in this picture!!!!

[image: 73d67947.jpg]

:tongue:

Dutchy

dutchinterceptor

Check the slack midway between the sprockets while the bike is on the centerstand and always err on the side of being a little loose . Also spin the wheel around and check your slack at several points as you may have tight spots in the chain.

[image: ChainAdjustment.jpg]

Curious......... the service manual for the 3rd/4th Gen lists a free play of 0.6-1 inch or 15-25mm why is there such a difference?

Probably the newer bikes use more swingarm down angle, and so need more slack, as when the swingarm flattens out under load, the distance between the sprocket centers gets longer, eating up your slack.

I have to run more slack than Honda recommends due to having a shimmed rear shock and maxed out rear ride height, which gives me more swingarm down angle than stock.

If I run the slack in the manual, my chain is too tight once seated on the bike and even worse when hitting a bump. So I run about 1.5 inches instead of 1.25. Once the bike is loaded its fine.

Auspañol

Turn the wheel with the bike in neutral and look for tight spots on the chain and adjust at these tighter spots to within spec. No point along the chain should have less than the recommended slack (25mm on the VTEC VFR). In my opinion the looser parts of the chain can have up to 35mm of slack with no real noticeable effects whilst riding... once this is surpassed, you will notice a rhythmic jerking or cyclic jerking effect whilst maintaining constant speeds and possibly unusual jerking effects whilst engine braking, changing gears will be less smooth.. etc etc... due to the larger difference between the tight and loose parts of the chain...

Glad someone mentioned that. Only thing that I will add, if your a fat bastard (or carry a regular pillion), carry a lot of gear, then this can also add tension to the chain (once its off the center stand) & your on the road. So don't be tempted to do overkill on the tightening & check that its adjusted properly on several of the tights spots. There is always more than one.

Monk

One thing I don't see very often, but have seen, is when checking the bottom train of the chain, the bike should be in gear and turn the rear wheels backwards to tighten the upper train. Hold that position tight while checking the slack.

Really? My manual says to check slack with the bike in neutral on the sidestand. I would think that the chain would have too much slack now compared to the specified method. Have you compared what slack measurement you get with these two methods?

"Have you compared what slack measurement you get with these two methods?" YES.....And I just went though it 5 min ago, and this is what I came up with.......

1st there is no diff by checking with top train tight or loose......... no diff centre or side stand, it all came out 1 & 1/4"

2nd I checked to see if there was any slack in bottom train while sitting on it. There was some slack, guessing about 1/4" to 1/2" , because I couldn't "measure" while sitting on it, but used a "L" shaped (homemade) tool to check for slack(which I do every time I adjust it, to be sure there is some slack).

I can't copy/paste the part in the service manual but it says to check on centre stand.

This ia all I could find in the owners manual.

I got the top train check with no slack elsewhere(chain maint' web).

An endless (riveted master link) chain connects the countershaft and rear wheel sprockets. The O-ring chain uses rubber

rings between the side plates of the pin and roller links to seal in the manufacturer-installed lubricating grease

and keep out moisture and dirt.

Under severe usage, or when the motorcycle is ridden in unusually dusty or muddy areas, more frequent maintenance

will be necessary.

The service life of the chain depends on proper lubrication and adjustment. Poor maintenance can cause premature wear

or damage to the drive chain or sprockets.

The drive chain should be checked, adjusted, and lubricated as part of the preride inspection (page ).

Before servicing your drive chain, turn the engine OFF, lower the center stand (page 64), and check that your transmission is

in neutral.

It is not necessary to remove or replace the drive chain to perform the recommended service in the Maintenance Schedule.(page)45.

Hey Monk - Since it all comes out the same, I'll continue to check it with the bike in neutral on the centre stand.That seems to be the easiest way to do it. Thanks.

auggius

Hey Monk - Since it all comes out the same, I'll continue to check it with the bike in neutral on the centre stand.That seems to be the easiest way to do it. Thanks.

That's the same I'm doing.... after doing it enough I pretty much just hit the bottom train on the low side of the swing arm guard and I'm good to go.... Then check it with my "L" tool while sitting on it.....

Of course then one you quoted was a little over a year ago.......... WE KEEEEPS LEARNING.......

Dutchy

Look at the T-shirt for the correct free play.

[image: 73d67947.jpg]

From the photo on the bike, it seems that they are saying the 1 1/4" of slack is the space *between* the links when pushed to the max (up and down).

Or are they trying to show measuring from the middle of the chain, which then your shirt will give the same measurement?

alternately, you could just ignore it for a year like I do. :ph34r:

From the photo on the bike, it seems that they are saying the 1 1/4" of slack is the space *between* the links when pushed to the max (up and down).

Or are they trying to show measuring from the middle of the chain, which then your shirt will give the same measurement?

I measure from the pin just to keep from over taxing my brain(as long as it's the same top/bottom you'll be right)....

One thing is not to try to push the chain as hard as possible while measuring, just normal pressure....... Of course the 1st time I ever wanted to use a feeler gauge on my car valves it was "how does the thing suppose to feel".....Catch 22....... That's why the pros get the big bucks......... Closest I can think of is how tight should you adjust your watch band so it doesn't move but won't make your hand fall asleep......

read the owners manual every once in a while. you will be amazed what you can learn

think my adjuster is siezed or bliming tight...ive used the correct spanner & it wont turn either way....can anyone help...

tomoyzf13

think my adjuster is siezed or bliming tight...ive used the correct spanner & it wont turn either way....can anyone help...

Have you loosened the nut?

haha yeah pinch nut loose and flat head screwdriver to open the gap..still wont move the adjuster so im guessing the hub needs attention..ill get the hub taken apart and whip some anti seize grease on?

seen some footage on mp4 of the reason the hub maybe tight

http://uk.search.yahoo.com/r/_ylt=A7x9Qb4Ho4NRuwEAZRRLBQx.;_ylu=X3oDMTE1cHNqbjljBHNlYwNzcgRwb3MDNwRjb2xvA2lyZAR2dGlkA01TWVVLMDNfNzY-/SIG=120n79kib/EXP=1367610247/**http%3a//www.youtube.com/watch%3fv=k4sCQTwwOuc

tomoyzf13

haha yeah pinch nut loose and flat head screwdriver to open the gap..still wont move the adjuster so im guessing the hub needs attention..ill get the hub taken apart and whip some anti seize grease on?

seen some footage on mp4 of the reason the hub maybe tight

http://uk.search.yahoo.com/r/_ylt=A7x9Qb4Ho4NRuwEAZRRLBQx.;_ylu=X3oDMTE1cHNqbjljBHNlYwNzcgRwb3MDNwRjb2xvA2lyZAR2dGlkA01TWVVLMDNfNzY-/SIG=120n79kib/EXP=1367610247/**http%3a//www.youtube.com/watch%3fv=k4sCQTwwOuc

This is a very useful link. Thank you. I need to replace my rear disk and axle because I cannot separate the disk from the axle. Good to see how it come apart and goes back together. Now just waiting for parts.

tomoyzf13

haha yeah pinch nut loose and flat head screwdriver to open the gap..still wont move the adjuster so im guessing the hub needs attention..ill get the hub taken apart and whip some anti seize grease on?

seen some footage on mp4 of the reason the hub maybe tight

http://uk.search.yahoo.com/r/_ylt=A7x9Qb4Ho4NRuwEAZRRLBQx.;_ylu=X3oDMTE1cHNqbjljBHNlYwNzcgRwb3MDNwRjb2xvA2lyZAR2dGlkA01TWVVLMDNfNzY-/SIG=120n79kib/EXP=1367610247/**http%3a//www.youtube.com/watch%3fv=k4sCQTwwOuc

There might be some corrosion in there that's keeping it from turning. Try to hit it with some good penetrant/lubricant like "PB Blaster" or "Freeze-Off" (Forget WD40 or even Liquid Wrench , they are wimpy compared to these two other brands) before you put any more force into turning the eccentric.

Beck

95 VFR

Ok maybe I'm just stoopid as well but how the heck do you measure the slack if the chain hits the swingarm?

I've read through this entire thread and have not seen a clear answer to this.

[image: post-19349-0-43911000-1377378016.jpg][image: post-19349-0-58073600-1377378110.jpg]

If it hits the rubber piece under the swingarm it is a little too loose. When he tested his in the video, at the end he said "no slapping". You do not want the chain hitting the swingarm. If you cannot make it any tighter, your chain is worn out (stretched beyond spec).

Dutchy

Look at the T-shirt for the correct free play.

YES guys there IS a T-shirt in this picture!!!!

[image: 73d67947.jpg]

:tongue2:

there may be "play" in that pic, but I guarantee its not "free".

Well.............. I never pay for things I can (still) get for free.............. :goofy:

So I stumbled on this thread because I'm doing some checks before I take my bike to the track. This would be my first time at the track.

Anyhow, it looks like my chain has been too TIGHT. I've always cleaned and oiled it, and it doesn't pull on the bike, but it is not giving me 1" slack at the mid points. The sprocket is also just past the wear indicator.

I am wondering that with the sprocket that far back, and the chain that tight, if I can just loosen the sprocket and push it back in to give me that 1 to 1.25 of slack.

Others have said that a chain too tight is bad. Mine doesn't seem to be so bad, but if I loosen it up what could happen as long as it is within spec? I've ridden about 2500 miles on this chain.

WalkThisWhey

So I stumbled on this thread because I'm doing some checks before I take my bike to the track. This would be my first time at the track.

Anyhow, it looks like my chain has been too TIGHT. I've always cleaned and oiled it, and it doesn't pull on the bike, but it is not giving me 1" slack at the mid points. The sprocket is also just past the wear indicator.

I am wondering that with the sprocket that far back, and the chain that tight, if I can just loosen the sprocket and push it back in to give me that 1 to 1.25 of slack.

Others have said that a chain too tight is bad. Mine doesn't seem to be so bad, but if I loosen it up what could happen as long as it is within spec? I've ridden about 2500 miles on this chain.

You don't say how tight it is. But in any case it should be set to spec. The chain will thank you!

When the rear of the bike is compressed downwards (as when riding with passenger, accellerating, going over bumps etc), the chain is tensioned. This is caused by the front sprocket is not in the exact pivot point as the rear swing arm.

So if the chain is too tight when standing still it will be even tighter when riding. This can damage the chain, the sprockets and can also cause a bend on the outgoing axle from the gearbox. This is usually a bad thing.

A chain that is too slack is therefore "better" than a chain that is too tight. Within spec is of course preferred.

I would adjust so it is within spec ... especially if youre going on a track day. Have fun! :happy: