Hmmm, I like that it can be put on it's side and rolled away for storage. I would be concerned about the strength vs the cost....using the best wood to make it strong would also make it expensive. Black Pipe is also not cheap...not the fittings at least. The only downside to me is that I don't own that kind of Hydraulic Jack.
I like it. However I think I would want to use thicker pipe than whats in the photo due to the weight. Maybe even using three instead of two. Nice find though. Thanks for posting. :fing02:
I don't know which parts incur the weight limitation, but the creator claims 600 as the max working weight, with 1,000 lbs limit. The VFR weighs 550...would this be pushing it?
[image: View Post]Tightwad, on Dec 17 2008, 11:16 AM, said:
I don't know which parts incur the weight limitation, but the creator claims 600 as the max working weight, with 1,000 lbs limit. The VFR weighs 550...would this be pushing it?
I would imagine it's the black pipe.
Just had a thought. Lowering the car jack can be 'herky jerky'. Wonder if modifying this to use a come-along or a winch would work well (I have access to both :) )
[image: View Post]y2kvfr, on Dec 17 2008, 10:24 AM, said:
[image: View Post]Tightwad, on Dec 17 2008, 11:16 AM, said:
I don't know which parts incur the weight limitation, but the creator claims 600 as the max working weight, with 1,000 lbs limit. The VFR weighs 550...would this be pushing it?
I would imagine it's the black pipe.
Just had a thought. Lowering the car jack can be 'herky jerky'. Wonder if modifying this to use a come-along or a winch would work well (I have access to both :) )
A car jack like the one pictured can be lowered slowly, but I would agree that just dropping the bike 24" at once could be a problem. I wouldn't want to use a come-a-long, but a winch would be interesting.
How much would it cost to build one yourself?
Let's see:
Plywood - about $80 (for the good stuff).
Bunch of 4x4s - about $30 (or less, but let's just say...)
Pipe and fittings - about $70???
Jack - about $50
Total - $240 or thereabouts.
At the end, you don't have a hydraulic lift that works by pressing a button...
[image: View Post]Rice, on Dec 17 2008, 10:40 AM, said:
HF lift is about $400, right?
How much would it cost to build one yourself?
Let's see:
Plywood - about $80 (for the good stuff).
Bunch of 4x4s - about $30 (or less, but let's just say...)
Pipe and fittings - about $70???
Jack - about $50
Total - $240 or thereabouts.
At the end, you don't have a hydraulic lift that works by pressing a button...
I'd just buy the damn thing from HF.
A bit pessimistic I think....
Plywood, $25
2x4 (not 4x4) $3 each...$21?
Pipe and fittings...you could be right, but I would have guessed $50
Jack - $50 might be on the low side, but a useful item to have around IMO
Wheels and Handles and Paint adds $20
My estimate is pretty close to what one of his customers said...$130.
One thing that has stopped me from buying a lift has been where to put it when not in use. I like the one who dropped it into the garage floor...that would be sweet. I also like Sebspeeds 3 lifts and no cars, but that is already getting me in trouble with the SO
Whoa... That scares the crap out of me.... Black iron pipe is not intended or designed to carry any load whatsoever. If you think about this design you are actually forcing the pipe to thread OUT of the elbow on one half of each arm. Scary. Using a threaded jount and then placing it under ANY Axial load is not smart and asking for catastrophic failure. I understand the jack is doing most of the work but the amount of load carried across the lift and transfering to the arms would suprise you. IMO this lift is a disaster waiting to happen.
[image: View Post]Rice, on Dec 17 2008, 11:40 AM, said:
HF lift is about $400, right?
How much would it cost to build one yourself?
Let's see:
Plywood - about $80 (for the good stuff).
Bunch of 4x4s - about $30 (or less, but let's just say...)
Pipe and fittings - about $70???
Jack - about $50
Total - $240 or thereabouts.
At the end, you don't have a hydraulic lift that works by pressing a button...
I'd just buy the damn thing from HF.
I normally would agree with you on the purchasing part, but since it involves woodworking (my hobby) building it is more than half the fun.
[image: View Post]Rice, on Dec 17 2008, 10:40 AM, said:
HF lift is about $400, right?
How much would it cost to build one yourself?
Let's see:
Plywood - about $80 (for the good stuff).
Bunch of 4x4s - about $30 (or less, but let's just say...)
Pipe and fittings - about $70???
Jack - about $50
Total - $240 or thereabouts.
At the end, you don't have a hydraulic lift that works by pressing a button...
I'd just buy the damn thing from HF.
I bought my HF lift w/foot pump on sale for $279. Why bother with this mess??? :huh:
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n85/baileyrock/F4i%20track%20bike/trackbikerebuild011.jpg
[image: View Post]Baileyrock, on Dec 17 2008, 02:12 PM, said:
I bought my HF lift w/foot pump on sale for $279. Why bother with this mess??? :huh:
I already have _*most*_ of the material. Would probably be about $70 out of pocket.
If I could find a foot pump lift for $150 I could get it by the CFO...
[image: View Post]alwaysaware, on Dec 17 2008, 01:18 PM, said:
I normally would agree with you on the purchasing part, but since it involves woodworking (my hobby) building it is more than half the fun.
In that case, I would recomment replacing pipe with 2x4s for carrying arms. Just build boxes to support the pivot points and use large bolts for the pivot axels. Also, some sorta X support between the arms and you're golden.
Sorry, can't post a drawing from work, but you know what I mean...
[image: View Post]y2kvfr, on Dec 17 2008, 01:15 PM, said:
[image: View Post]Baileyrock, on Dec 17 2008, 02:12 PM, said:
I bought my HF lift w/foot pump on sale for $279. Why bother with this mess??? :huh:
I already have _*most*_ of the material. Would probably be about $70 out of pocket.
If I could find a foot pump lift for $150 I could get it by the CFO...
Need one of those mythical 50% coupons for HF!
You can just do it like WERA910 and build a solid wood platform that you roll the bike up on, instead of the up and down action. :fing02:
I bought one of these last year and just got it out of the box this past weekend. It's a different sort of lift than what we're talking about here, but is a very nice piece of equipment. Also, it can be used for more than just lifting motorcycles. And the price is not too bad.
That looks like plumbing pipe in that pic. I wouldn't recommend using it, because it's not really made for structural loads. If it is seamed piping, it could collapse if the seam welding was not done to proper structural standards to handle loads. Better off using steel angle stock or even better if you use hollow square section steel tubing. Specially now that a lot of steel products come from non-reliable (QC-wise) sources from the far east. Lifting and working on something over 400 pounds can get dangerous if something suddenly fails. just talking from an Architectural/Engineering background.
I saw this on Ebay, and though I thought it clever, I didn't have much faith in it... plus, I have to jack my car up all the time and it takes me forever... assuming I would have access to the end where the jack goes.
I built my own table a few years back... and it worked great... but, very difficult to get the bike up and down on.
I considered for a time building my own lift and had a couple of discarded smaller pneu cylinders at the house for the job, but steel is more expensive than you think.... and even though I had a wheel vice, and a welder, I probably would have spent close to $200 before I bought just the steel and other hardware.
The 800lb lift is often on sale and stocked at all the Harbor Freight stores... Baileyrock's been using his for years and claims it's the best thing since Ben-Gay :laugh: Most of the time you can get these for $299, and I've seen it for $239 a time or two. I went the "Over the top" route and got the 1200 lb pneu one for $400 with coupon, but I really love it.
[image: View Post]Baileyrock, on Dec 17 2008, 02:29 PM, said:
You can just do it like WERA910 and build a solid wood platform that you roll the bike up on, instead of the up and down action. :fing02:
I thought about the 2 sheets of plywood cut/slotted deal. I really don't like 'loading' the bike up like that (ramps have always given me the heeby-jeebies).
Guess I should probably just keep watching the HF adds and wait for the pump model to come down in price.
I like the ATV jack, but would end up have to rig something up (table top on top of that, but would need to stabilize it for the up/down).
Problem with the ATV jack (I have one) is that the bottom of the VFR doesn't lend itself to raising in this manner. Basically it is worthless for anything that isn't totally flat on the bottom.
[image: View Post]Tightwad, on Dec 17 2008, 03:01 PM, said:
Problem with the ATV jack (I have one) is that the bottom of the VFR doesn't lend itself to raising in this manner. Basically it is worthless for anything that isn't totally flat on the bottom.
Or is a Harley - the bottom frame rails are exposed and are your lift points on those. Still not very stable IMHO. Glad I bought my HF one.
So, I've been going through all my stuff from my recent (1 month ago) move.
I've determined that I have a dozen milk crates. I'm thinking I'll just do a static table with a bunch of the crates and some plywood.
If a single crate can hold my 185lbs, then 9 or so crates shouldn't have an issue with the VFR. I'll mount the HF wheel chock to the plywood and walk it up.
That'll get it off the floor about 1' 4" after all the support 2x4s and what not. I wouldn't dare do a two foot static table.
[image: View Post]y2kvfr, on Dec 31 2008, 10:05 PM, said:
So, I've been going through all my stuff from my recent (1 month ago) move.
I've determined that I have a dozen milk crates. I'm thinking I'll just do a static table with a bunch of the crates and some plywood.
If a single crate can hold my 185lbs, then 9 or so crates shouldn't have an issue with the VFR. I'll mount the HF wheel chock to the plywood and walk it up.
That'll get it off the floor about 1' 4" after all the support 2x4s and what not. I wouldn't dare do a two foot static table.
Thoughts?
-t
No thoughts, EXCEPT;....... I Better not see a, "Look what happened to the lift and my bike", thread.
Those look nice and all but for my projects I usually do the following and have done well with it since I was 10. I even use the same steps for working on stuff in my job sitting next to my 5k tool box.
Step 1) find piece of old carpet (optional).
Step 2) arrange tools near project on floor.
Step 3) sit on carpet (second option is sit on ground)
It's one of those hang over-inspired things that only come with a massive head ache in the morning of January 1ST :biggrin:
So, I have an ATV jack, which is currently supporting a VLX.
Once the VLX is back on its own two feet, I'm thinking of converting the jack into a bike lift for the bike that really matters...
Here's how:
1. Take a piece of heavy plywood the size of lift platform
2. Measure the hight of the ATV jack in folded position
3. Attach to the underside of the platform 4 wooden pivot points that are the same height as the ATV jack. Each pivot point would consist of two parallel 2x4s or 2x6es cut to height of the jack.
4. Insert 2x4 pivoting support legs into each pivot point. Then drill insert through bolts. Support legs will be the length of ATV jack 95% extended.
5. Build a small (5-6') ramp or use one of those car ramps they sell.
6. Build or buy a wheel chock.
Done.
Now, when the "lift" is down, it is 100% stable and supported by the 4 pivot points at corners and by jack in the middle.
When it is up, the legs will pivot down ans sit on the floor again supporting the corners.
The only issue I see is lowering it. All 4 legs will have to be folded under. No biggie. Can just add little bathroom hook and ring arrangement and fold them under before lowering.
Edit: For improved stability, use the self-locking things that folding tables use to support legs.
How's that for an idea?
This should cost a total of $150 or so with the jack methinks.
[image: View Post]Rice, on Jan 1 2009, 09:07 AM, said:
I have an idea :idea3:
It's one of those hang over-inspired things that only come with a massive head ache in the morning of January 1ST :biggrin:
So, I have an ATV jack, which is currently supporting a VLX.
Once the VLX is back on its own two feet, I'm thinking of converting the jack into a bike lift for the bike that really matters...
Here's how:
1. Take a piece of heavy plywood the size of lift platform
2. Measure the hight of the ATV jack in folded position
3. Attach to the underside of the platform 4 wooden pivot points that are the same height as the ATV jack. Each pivot point would consist of two parallel 2x4s or 2x6es cut to height of the jack.
4. Insert 2x4 pivoting support legs into each pivot point. Then drill insert through bolts. Support legs will be the length of ATV jack 95% extended.
5. Build a small (5-6') ramp or use one of those car ramps they sell.
6. Build or buy a wheel chock.
Done.
Now, when the "lift" is down, it is 100% stable and supported by the 4 pivot points at corners and by jack in the middle.
When it is up, the legs will pivot down ans sit on the floor again supporting the corners.
The only issue I see is lowering it. All 4 legs will have to be folded under. No biggie. Can just add little bathroom hook and ring arrangement and fold them under before lowering.
Edit: For improved stability, use the self-locking things that folding tables use to support legs.
How's that for an idea?
This should cost a total of $150 or so with the jack methinks.
Sounds like something to try. I might try to find one of those atv jacks, they're always popping up on craigslist...
Good thing I use a dry erase board and not pen (erase erase erase...)
[image: View Post]Rivcyko, on Dec 31 2008, 10:18 PM, said:
No thoughts, EXCEPT;....... I Better not see a, "Look what happened to the lift and my bike", thread.
But Trav, it's a static table concept. The only gotcha I see is getting the bike up the ramp. Something I always loath.
I have to sort out my work shop area now that the rest of the basement is cleaned up. I'll have the bike lifted within the month. I have to get going on the brakes, clutch (fluid), 929 shock conversion, chain & sprockets, repack the MIG Indy, oh, and I should probably check the valves. I'm at 24k miles, and haven't gotten 'round toit yet.
Both my lifts are about 7" tall when they're collapsed, and you'd be surprised to learn how much difference that 7" makes. Most of the time I only have to raise the lifts up to the first or second lock point, after that you can't work on anything "on top" of the bike anymore. Going all the way up makes it easy to work on the sides of the bike when standing, but the first/second notch are great for wheeling around in a chair.
If I were you, I would build a box with 2x8's, braced with an X in the middle and 3/4" plywood on top, so you end up with an 8.25" tall platform to roll you bike onto. I think you'll be very happy with it esp for the work you described, and it should be easy enough to roll the bike onto with the right length ramp(about 2' long). Add some big eye bolts and your chock so you can lock the bike down. Then, if you need more height, you can jack up one end of the box at a time and slice pieces of 4x4 underneath to bring it higher.
Foot pumps and air controls are just a matter of convenience for those of us that use these things every day. I had a static table like this once too, and it got the job done, but once I started humping the thing up and down more often, I went for the real thing.
[image: View Post]dutchinterceptor, on Dec 17 2008, 05:08 PM, said:
I would probably go the table route if I built one for myself but what I actually need is the cheap ebay diy garage. :goofy:
I bet we could build you a shed for <$1,000 that would be big enough to house the bike and work on it too. Sounds like a good Saturday project, let me know when I can come help!
I can see myself trying to pull something off like the "redneck lift" not too many years ago. However, I now know how much a small tip over can cost and how easily these things pop off/get scratched/get bent. Not anymore. I'm sure the redneck lift could probably be upgraded with better materials, etc, becoming the "better than a redneck lift" but I'm no engineer (like so many on here). Not gonna try it.
So, I finally built up some kitchen pass time and have the man cave 'picked up' enough to start my winter maintenance.
I know, its nearly March, but with three kids and a new house, some things just have a higher priority.
Anyway, here's the parts list:
16 3-inch wood screws (on hand, $0)
bunch of 1.25" wood screws (on hand, $0)
2 2x4-8 (on hand, $0)
6 2x4-33" (on hand, $0)
6 milk crates (on hand, $0)
4 tie down rings (on hand, $0)
1 HF wheel chock (got on the $19.99 deal)
2 4x8 1/2" OSB (on hand, $0)
Time: About 45 minutes
As I said in post #1, I'm a frugal person, so I try my best to use what I have on hand (why I used OSB and not 3/4" marine grade plywood).
I first cut the OSB down to 3x8. I cut the 33" 2x4s next.
Put one sheet of OSB on 4 of the milk crates. Clamp the first 2x4-8 to one of the OSB sheets and use 1 1/4" wood screws to attach. Then the two outside 2x4-33" 'end caps' (using the clamps again).
Then the other 2x4-8, clamped then screwed. I now have the outside frame. Take the frame and lean it against a wall so the underside is accessible. Place two crates against the left end cap and and wedge in a 2x4-33" cross member. Use 3" screws to attach the 33" to the 8'. Add 2 3" screws (toe screw in to avoid splitting) to attach the end cap and 2x4-8. Repeat for the right side.
Measure from one end towards the middle 3.5' for the 1st middle cross member. Screw it in with 3" screws. Put in the milk crate to get the distance for the 2nd middle cross member. Screw it in (again, 3" screws).
Now, flip the whole assembly to gain access to the other side and repeat the 3" screw process.
Once complete, add 1.25" screws to the OSB into the cross members.
Add 2nd layer of OSB and screw the daylights out of it.
Put 2 milk crates under one end. Go to the other end and add two more crates. Then add the middle 2 milk crates.
Mount the front wheel chock. Mount the tie down rings.
Use your favorite 'truck ramp' and voila, redneck motorcycle table.
I'd be tempted to get the assorted garage hook pack from the dollar store and screw them in the 2x4's on the sides, instead of the attach points you have now. I have two pairs in two different rafters in my garage, and have had a bike + me hanging from each set without fail more than once.
Nicely done! Add some cables to pulleys mounted in the ceiling beams and when you are done with the "lift" just wench it up to get it out of the way. :fing02:
I may have to do this myself sometime down the road. :cool:
How the heck do you have the front tire completely in the front wheel chock AND have the bike on the center stand? Do you have to scoot the bike forward after putting it on the center stand? Or do you jack the bike up to put the center stand down?
[image: View Post]hollowas, on Feb 26 2009, 11:57 AM, said:
How the heck do you have the front tire completely in the front wheel chock AND have the bike on the center stand? Do you have to scoot the bike forward after putting it on the center stand? Or do you jack the bike up to put the center stand down?
Inquiring mind(s) wants to know...
--Steve
I can't take credit for this, I saw it here on VFRD somewhere...
I put the front into the chock and temporarily tied the front down with rachet straps over the top triple.
Then I slid my slim floor jack under the pipes and slowly jacked it up.
[image: View Post]y2kvfr, on Feb 26 2009, 09:37 AM, said:
[image: View Post]hollowas, on Feb 26 2009, 11:57 AM, said:
How the heck do you have the front tire completely in the front wheel chock AND have the bike on the center stand? Do you have to scoot the bike forward after putting it on the center stand? Or do you jack the bike up to put the center stand down?
Inquiring mind(s) wants to know...
--Steve
I can't take credit for this, I saw it here on VFRD somewhere...
I put the front into the chock and temporarily tied the front down with rachet straps over the top triple.
Then I slid my slim floor jack under the pipes and slowly jacked it up.
Pull down the c-stand and remove the jack. :)
Removal will be the same deal.
Ah. Make sense. I might have to try your design out... Now where did that milkman go..... :biggrin:
The only issues I see so far (pulled the exhaust slip on and fuel tank off last night) is that when I go to replace the clutch and brake fluids I need to pull it out of the chock. A regular wheel vise would be better for this situation (I think).
Seb: I chose the rings because I had them on hand (I do have the coated lag hooks as well), but with those on the side I would probably catch my legs on them pretty consistently.
The 3' width seems to be working really well. The table is stable as all get-out, and I have room for tools and what-not.
I had to cut my exhaust clamp bolt, and the dunnage just fell onto the table to be picked up.
The CFO saw it and said, "I thought that OSB was for the shed you have to build!?!"
[image: View Post]y2kvfr, on Feb 27 2009, 06:15 AM, said:
The CFO saw it and said, "I thought that OSB was for the shed you have to build!?!"
I see you have your priorities right, as least they are right with this forum. :wheel:
End of thread · 41 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 12 Apr 2010