[image: View Post]y2kvfr, on 15 March 2010 - 10:19 AM, said:
Where's my light spot dot????
Do michelins not have a 'light spot'?
Personally, I don't know about Michelins, but I was told that for Avons the dot is on the inside of the carcase because someone at Avon thought they didn't look good with a dot on the outside. I was also told that Avons (Storms, at least) were inherently very well balanced, so any weights added were just for the inherent inbalances in the wheel itself.
[image: View Post]enzed_viffer, on 14 March 2010 - 05:24 PM, said:
[image: View Post]y2kvfr, on 15 March 2010 - 10:19 AM, said:
Where's my light spot dot????
Do michelins not have a 'light spot'?
Personally, I don't know about Michelins, but I was told that for Avons the dot is on the inside of the carcase because someone at Avon thought they didn't look good with a dot on the outside. I was also told that Avons (Storms, at least) were inherently very well balanced, so any weights added were just for the inherent inbalances in the wheel itself.
Thanks Ian. I didn't think to look inside. I suppose I could balance them (ish) before seating the bead...
Thanks Kevin... kinda figured, but wanted to check before I went and seated the beads and then had to add a pound of lead :)
Your ziptie rim protector trick worked like a champ, by the way. The other trick I found was a small c-clamp so the bead wouldn't walk when levering on the second bead.
My rear is scratched to all heck from my last change, but my front is still pretty pristine.
Off to seat some beads (my compressor is chugging away...)
My PR2s didn't have a dot either, and I felt downright cheated. I had them mounted, and was surprised how much weight was needed... so immediately checked for the dot... to no avail.
My buddy is the Service Manager at dealer - I keep forgetting but will ask his opinion when next we meet.
:fing02:
Great, thanks for sharing the clap idea. I destroyed the powder coat on several wheels w/Harbor Fright bar before coming up with the rim protector mod, actually came up with that when Seb came to visit! :goofy:
[image: View Post]BaileyRock, on 14 March 2010 - 05:41 PM, said:
:fing02:
Great, thanks for sharing the clap idea. I destroyed the powder coat on several wheels w/Harbor Fright bar before coming up with the rim protector mod, actually came up with that when Seb came to visit! :goofy:
would the mod be the cutting board plastic one??? or the mojo lever.I need to stop the madness with the harbor fright rim killer.
1. After the first bead is over the rim and you're about to lever on the second bead, take a small c-clamp and some inner tube. Attach the c-clamp (use the inner tube to protect the wheel) and just place it on the wheel. This prevents the bead from walking as you lever on the rest of the bead.
2. I used a milk jug cut up, but BR's epiphany was to zip tip a rim protector to the inside of the business end of the lever. That way there is no metal-metal contact. I think there is a picture floating around somewhere.
Another thing I did was to use more inner tube to go over the HF wheel clamp dogs. It worked ok, not the best. Next time I will do the cutting board mod.
[image: View Post]y2kvfr, on 14 March 2010 - 04:19 PM, said:
I just wedged on my new PR2's. Before I set the bead I was planning on rotating the tire light spot to the valve stem.
WTF??? Where's my light spot dot????
Do michelins not have a 'light spot'?
-trav
Yeh no dot on Michs, probably saves them money , the tire stem is not always the heaviest part of the rim, putting the yellow dot there can be useless.
The yellow dot needs to go with the heaviest part of the rim, if you have a DOT
[image: View Post]y2kvfr, on 14 March 2010 - 05:19 PM, said:
I just wedged on my new PR2's. Before I set the bead I was planning on rotating the tire light spot to the valve stem.
WTF??? Where's my light spot dot????
Do michelins not have a 'light spot'?
-trav
Yes, when mounting my new PR2's I noticed this too. My PP2CT's have the white dot, but PR2's do not. I doubt that they don't have a heavy spot, maybe it's a new cost cutting measure at the new plant. Cough, Cough.
[image: View Post]rufrydrsc2, on 14 March 2010 - 08:13 PM, said:
[image: View Post]y2kvfr, on 14 March 2010 - 05:19 PM, said:
I just wedged on my new PR2's. Before I set the bead I was planning on rotating the tire light spot to the valve stem.
WTF??? Where's my light spot dot????
Do michelins not have a 'light spot'?
-trav
Yes, when mounting my new PR2's I noticed this too. My PP2CT's have the white dot, but PR2's do not. I doubt that they don't have a heavy spot, maybe it's a new cost cutting measure at the new plant. Cough, Cough.
[image: View Post]silkysmooth, on 14 March 2010 - 05:46 PM, said:
...or the mojo lever.I need to stop the madness with the harbor fright rim killer.[/font]
Santa brought me a mojolever and Marc Parnes balancer. I built the rest of the changer out of common hardware. It worked great, and no scratches. The mojolever is highly recommended. :fing02:
[image: View Post]Earthshake, on 14 March 2010 - 08:38 PM, said:
[image: View Post]silkysmooth, on 14 March 2010 - 05:46 PM, said:
...or the mojo lever.I need to stop the madness with the harbor fright rim killer.[/font]
Santa brought me a mojolever and Marc Parnes balancer. I built the rest of the changer out of common hardware. It worked great, and no scratches. The mojolever is highly recommended. :fing02:
When I start a new job,that day I'll buy a 750 GSXR and a mojolever they are sweat.
[image: View Post]spud786, on 14 March 2010 - 06:04 PM, said:
the tire stem is not always the heaviest part of the rim, putting the yellow dot there can be useless.
After a 150 tire changes I have found this to be true. Forget about the dots, throw the tire on there and if it doesn't balance well, break it down and spin it till you can cut down on the weights.
[image: View Post]Earthshake, on 14 March 2010 - 07:38 PM, said:
Santa brought me a mojolever and Marc Parnes balancer. I built the rest of the changer out of common hardware. It worked great, and no scratches. The mojolever is highly recommended. :fing02:
My boss and I have been working on a new design balancer. I'll have to get some pictures of it. There's no center rod, just two cones that you compress on the rim from each side. It works, but my boss isn't happy because it's only accurate down to a little under an ounce and he wants it accurate to under a half an ounce. The mojolever is on my list of wants, but won't happen this year. I just zip tied some plastic from a cut up cream cheese container to my HF bar and did my tires with no scratches. I also laid a rag on each grip of the changer so they wouldn't dig up the powdercoating. Worked perfectly. Here's a picture of the bar.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/rufrydrsc2/misc/March-14_1941.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/rufrydrsc2/misc/March-14_1943.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/rufrydrsc2/misc/March-14_1944.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/rufrydrsc2/misc/March-14_1945.jpg
Well I just finished changing a set of tires for a guy who found me with my craigslist ad http://bn.craigslist...81.html.....and the tires were the new michelin pure's. And they had no balance dot....so I put the rims on my balancer tiresless and I could have balanced them without the tires because they were both the same with the tires mounted....the tires must have been perfectly balanced!
All I can say about mounting tires is this: If you can swing the cash to buy a no mar, DO IT!! It makes it soooo easy, and if you can change a few peoples tires for a few bucks...it will pay for itself!
[image: View Post]HispanicSlammer, on 14 March 2010 - 09:42 PM, said:
Michelins have a bar code sticker not a dot!
Some do, some have both, notice the white dot on my PP2CT in the background?
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/rufrydrsc2/misc/March-14_1944.jpg
The dot simply marks 180 degrees from the tires seam. If you look inside the tire you will see where the two seams come together... put that part of the tire 180 degrees from the valve stem.
Balance the bare wheel next time it's off to find the heavy spot and mark it on the inside, then you'll always know. The heavy spot may not be the valve stem.
Instead of c-clamping the rim I use a quick release clamp/c-clamp on the tire itself to get the second bead on, keeps the tire in the wheel well and the bead from walking.
[image: View Post]HispanicSlammer, on 14 March 2010 - 10:42 PM, said:
Michelins have a bar code sticker not a dot!
Sonofa... Well, if I have to start adding weight, I'll just break the bead and find that sticker. I did notice the bar code and tried to peel it off, didn't do so hot, so it is still there.
I have been using the bar code sticker 180 from the stem for no other reason than it's nice to have a system of some sort!
I just took off a set of Power Race, and replaced with the same. Front wheel had no weight on it, and with the new tire it was still balanced. Rear took half ounce, I want to say.
[image: View Post]KPerham, on 15 March 2010 - 09:50 AM, said:
I have been using the bar code sticker 180 from the stem for no other reason than it's nice to have a system of some sort!
I just took off a set of Power Race, and replaced with the same. Front wheel had no weight on it, and with the new tire it was still balanced. Rear took half ounce, I want to say.
I worked in final finish at a tire plant the location of the bar code is static in other words has bearing on heavy spots in the tire.
There is a machine that trims the tire,the heavy areas,it can be an eye opener to see how out of round some tires can be.
I also worked in the process dept. where we produced the side walls,and treads.If you ever made these day after day it would not surprise you that heavy areas exist.
End of thread · 31 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 29 May 2010