Warning - Long post full of technical stuff combined with opinion ahead. You were warned.
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Background
I was actually quite a happy-chappy with my VFR - the mods I had performed had already smoothed out the VTEC transition (though it wasn't bad to begin with), and response down low wasn't too bad either. My main complaint, if I was to have one, was the abruptness of the throttle control in 1st gear which made low speed work a chore (and I would normally cheat by feathering the clutch). I decided to grab a PCV (and eventually autotune) partially because it would hopefully make the bike even better at those infamous points, but also inspired by CodeRighter's efforts I decided 'why the hell not'. I guess in part this post is part of that why-the-hell-not process ;) .
I decided to buy my PCV and Autotune from the USA rather than locally - yeah, I know, frowned on by the power that be (Dynojet) but the reason was very simple - price. I don't have unlimited funds to throw about, and frankly the cost of purchasing those little boxes locally is crazy. On a good day I was looking at $AUD550 to 600 for the PCV, and another $450 to 500 for the Autotune. That means if I was getting it as cheap as I could I would be looking in the region of $AUD1000. In recent currency terms (with the $AU buying about 90 US cents) I was look at about $USD 900 if I bought locally. If I bought from the USA I was looking at about $USD 500 plus another $40 in postage (or $AUD 600, a $AUD 400 saving!). So in order to save myself some significant cash I obviously took the order from the US route. Yeah, yeah, no warranty or official support - but both parts would have to fail (and I order replacements) for me to only just be out of pocket compared to if I bought locally. I am all for supporting local business, and normally do so when possible, but I don't support price gouging by importers with an exclusive deal. I recommend to anyone else who would benefit from significant savings by buying internationally to do so :) .
As I was going to order from the US and I was in a penny pinching mood I ordered the PCV first and the Autotune about a month later (basically to pick up the items when there was a good deal on each of them). This meant I ran the PCV for over 4 weeks just by itself, and that alone taught me a few interesting things which I shall share shortly. As such, I will also break this part up into a PCV section and an Autotune section (hopefully that will also be more helpful to those not interested in the Autotune).
Going into this modification bonanza I had made a few relevant alterations to my bike (most of which are pretty much universal).
Otherwise, from an engine and mapping perspective, she was stock (so it still had the original exhaust).
PCV - Install and setup
Installation of the PCV (and PCIII) have been covered elsewhere, and as those guides point out, it's very simple.
All you really need to do is remove your rear seat to find some place to put the little red and black box (being non-ABS I placed mine behind the rear brake fluid reservoir, but it is small enough that you can place it in a number of good spots). Then lift your tank, fish out the designated cable connection (should be just behind the frame on the right hand) - disconnect this connector and plug it into the PCV. Now install the supplied O2 eliminators on the left hand side (you will likely need to remove the fairing for this). I tried to ensure that the now exposed O2 sensor plugs were still shielded inside the rubber electrical connector protector, but you could tape them up for extra peace of mind. After that you attach the ground wire to the negative terminal on the battery and you are set. Luckily the device comes with a pictorial instruction set showing you exactly how to do this, so you really cannot go wrong.
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Where my PCV lives
Once you have done that you are good to go. There are other wires you will need to hook up for more advanced features (in particular tapping into the speed sensor for map-by-gearing and the temp sensor for... well, engine temp. but I will get to those later as their value is limited without the autotune).
Hookup your PCV to your (Windows) laptop, load the software and it should automatically pull down the map pre-loaded onto the device. Now things alter a little for the 2002-2005 bikes (as the map comes preloaded with the 2006+ map). You will need to upload a new (suitable map) before you take it for a test drive, mostly due to the VTEC transition point changes (and probably a few other tweaks Honda implemented on the 2006+ ECU). With the latest version of the PCV software this is a piece of cake - simply download the suitable PCIII map and use the inbuilt converter - easier than doing by hand (as I had to). Once that is uploaded you are good to go! You may also want to check your throttle position settings and give it a run on the centre stand with your laptop plugged in, just to check that everything is working correctly.
PCV - Usage report (or, WTF is this thing doing!?!)
I personally decided to play it conservative and loaded up the default Dynojet 2002 map. I planned on eventually giving Cozye's map a go until I obtained an Autotune. To my surprise, and horror, the default map ran like absolute crap. It's hard to find words which described the horror of it's operation, but it was shocking. Surging all over the place, bucking and general bad, bad running. Realising that when diagnosing fuel mixture problems it's 'better' to go too rich then too lean, I decided to richen up the map (theory being that if it got worse, or failed to improve, I would lean it up instead - I had noticed the default map was considerably richer then Cozye's). This helped the problem, it was better behaved (but still clearly unhappy), but as you can imagine, fuel consumption went to the dogs. It had me stumped, the bike was fine before I installed the PCV, and the only other change at the time was the O2 elims (which are needed as per the Dynojet instructions). Clearly there was too much air in there, causing it to run lean. The only other clue I had was it was much worse below 6000RPM then above.
Resolved to solve the issue, I decided to start restoring parts of the bike to stock to see if some other change had caused the problems. Seeing as there are not many relevant changes made to my bike I decided to do it in two steps - first the flapper and snorkel, if that didn't work, the PAIR system and air filter (I planned on returning the air filter to the OEM model eventually anyway, but I'll cover why at a later point).
First up, flapper and snorkel. Up goes the tank and I man-handle those two back to their original function. I take the bike for a test ride and suddenly - wow, fixed! Still a little grumpy at me, but night and day type change from before - I safely put the remaining grumpiness down to the current map just being a default one rather than a map tweaked or custom made for the setup. My theory is that the flapper was at fault (because frankly the snorkels impact would be small compared). With the flapper disabled the bike would pull in too much air below 5500RPM (which from memory is it's cut-off, or rather, fully open, point), which when in closed loop mode would be compensated for by the ECU. Eliminate those O2 sensors and suddenly it doesn't work so good any more. Of course, this doesn't make sense in light of the number of people out there who have no issues with their PCs or O2 elims with the flapper disabled, but it did the trick for me.
So the lesson there is - if your bike is running like crap after you have just installed a power commander, check you air intakes.
After restoring the flapper I loaded up Cozye's map, which run rather well really. Over the next few weeks a tweaked it by feel, and the map progressively got better and better (well, felt like it anyway). I decided at that point that PCVs are great, and keenly awaited my next new 'toy', the Autotune.
Autotune - Install and setup
As I said above, I obtained my Autotune a little over 4 weeks after I had installed the PCV. By that point I was happy enough with my tweak-by-feel version of Cozye's map - enough that it would make a good base map to start with for my Autotune adventure.
Installation is pretty easy again, but there is a bit more to it then for the original PCV. As long as you have the tools it should not take you more then 90 minutes (including drinks breaks) if you take it slow and check you work. May I suggest you take it slow and check your work (I'll tell you why shortly). The instructions are pretty good so you should follow them, but they are not as good as the instructions for the PCV unit (I guess that's because they are generic all-bike instructions).
A few tips:
Do not forget the CAN terminator - you put it in the spare plug on the Autotune, not the PCV.
Make sure you install the cables properly - on the Autotune module there is a membrane protecting the internal connectors which you have to pierce - I used a small jewellers screwdriver first to do this, which made inserting the cables a piece of cake.
Make sure you get the cables in the correct order.
You can install the sensor in either of the O2 sensor positions (one is for cyl 1 & 3, the other cyl 2 & 4), but you will have a much easier time of it installing it in the leftwards most one (see pic).
I thought the O2 sensor cable connector (used to plug the sensor into the extension that runs to the module) looked like it was asking for dirt and crud to get into it, so I cocooned it is electrical tape. Probably not necessary, but I would rather not spend a few hours down the line cleaning it out with compressed air and contact cleaner (see pic).
I suggest hooking up the speed sensor and temp sensor wires now. Save yourself the trouble of doing it later (even if you don't intend to use either, though you really should). A decent length of wire will suffice, and use either posi-taps or slip the wire into a connector trick to connect them. See the below pictures to see which wires you are looking for on the bike. Remember these go to the PCV itself, not the Autotune.
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My Autotunes temporary accommodation (due to cableing for now)
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Where the O2 sensor goes (or rather replaces the existing one). Yes, my bike is dirty and in need of a good clean
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Autotune cable (in the black sheath) and wires for speed and temp sensors (white and yellow)
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Temp sensor is the yellow-with-blue-stripe wire
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Speed sensor is the pretty little pink wire
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O2 plug wrapped up for its own protection
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Everything nicely tucked away
Once I had everything install, I popped the bike up on the centre stand, turned it on and let the bike warm up with the PCV plugged into my laptop (so I could see all the readings). Much to my horror, the AFR continued to be reported as 9.99 - according to the instructions this is a bad sign. I went over and double checked everything but it still reported 9.99 - but no other errors and its little LED was blinking correctly. Turns out that before I wrapped up the 12v connection for the Autotune (which powers the O2 sensors heating element) in electrical tape, I forgot to actually connect the lead to a 12v source! (whoops). Once I did this everything went fine. Lesson here is make sure everything is correctly hooked up - and no heater, no working, even though the exhaust would have gotten it up to operating temp.
Final setup is easy too - Dynojet supplies a default AFR map which you can use (and after taking a quick look it should be fine to use the 2006+ AFR map on a 2002-2005). I cheated and recycled CodeRighters existing good work, which I then altered to suit my needs (basically leaning out where I tended to cruise). Activate the Autotune functionality in your PCV software and you are good to go (I'll cover gearing and temp shortly).
Autotune - Usage report (without by-gear mapping)
For a couple of reasons, the main one being the KISS principle (ie. keeping it simple) I decided to start off without using all that fancy PCV stuff like map-by-gear and accelpump. I figured I would get a handle on the basics first, and then move on to the advanced features. Let me summarise the rest of this section for you - don't bother with that crap, just skip straight to map-by-gear and set the rest up right to begin with - yeah, sure, there is more points of failure where a mistake could cause problems, but it will save you a lot of screwing around otherwise. There are now a few who have blazed this trail before you (and CodeRighters write ups are an excellent resource, so use them) so you can just copy what others have done.
Now for the detailed information. The Autotune worked, it actually worked rather well - considering that it was not made for the 2002-2005, nor supported, I was a little surprised at how easy it all was (sure, there isn't that much different between 2002-2005 and 2006+, but there are key differences, enough to cause problems). I started riding, it started trimming, I started accepting these trims and letting the Autotune work towards a nice balanced map of its own. The trims were pretty mad to begin with, but I sort of expected that - I figured it would work itself out over time (basically averaging its way towards an approximate optimum).
To help demonstrate what�s going on each time you go out for a ride (and then accept the new trim tables) here are some nice pretty graphs coming some sets of readings. For reference there is an average of CodeRighter's map (which he made using his autotune over some considerable time), there is the base map which I started with, and there is the fuel map from a number of 'reading' points were basically I have accepted the trims after a decent amount of riding (normally in the region of 100km). I have only included 2% to 20% throttle maps as they show the greatest amount of change (it starts to get less and less after that as I tend not to ride around at 60% throttle much).
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2% throttle
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5% throttle
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10% throttle
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15% throttle
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20% throttle
Graphs are great to see what sort of changes are going on, and clearly show the Autotune adapting as you ride (though you can tell that through feel as well). Unfortunately what these graphs don't is how it feels, and let me tell you, it felt like crap. Absolute crap. Similar to when I first installed the PCV, but in a different way. At points it was snatchy, at others, it was surgy, others boggy and occasionally bucky. Just bad. The real bad part of it was that it would switch between good and bad over the course of a ride (so obviously the system was trying to fix everything up).
I'll try to describe exactly what I felt was going on, and that should also make my eventual solution clear. I would start off and everything would be going fine, Get up into 2nd (which I tend to use as my suburban speed gear, so 40-60km/h in built up areas) and move off from home, all is good. Shift up to 3rd which I use for normal use 60-90km/h (and if I want some VTEC action 100km/h+), and things would feel bad, a little boggy, unresponsive, but it would fix itself shortly. Continue onwards basically switching between 1st, 2nd and 3rd (so suburban riding ranging from streets to main roads to avenues). Over time, it would get worse and worse and worse, and always at its worst just after a gear change - so I would be sitting at a particular RPM and throttle position for 2nd gear, then a short time later, same RPM and throttle position in 3rd gear, and it would run like absolute crap (sometimes even to the point where it felt violently unsafe). I would then later switch back to the same RPM and throttle position in 2nd gear (as I move between roads and streets) and it would be running again like absolute crap. Normally it would resolve itself, but it tended take a couple of RPM 'sweeps' (basically open the throttle a little to increase the RPM, close it a little to drop it below the range in question, then re-open, and re-close, do this 3 or 4 times and the feel improved, but wasn't really fixed). The solution was clear, map-by-gear - clearly the setting that the Autotune was establishing for a particular RPM and throttle position combination would work in one gear, but not in another. You can sort of see the problem in the graphs where between one reading and another there has been a crazy change - which I took to mean that in one trim-accept the last time I was at that throttle and RPM point I was in one gear, and at the other trim-accept I was in a different gear.
Lesson here follows, just go straight to map-by-gear. Really, it is that much better.
Autotune - Usage report (with by-gear mapping)
Map-by-gear is pretty easy to set up. There is no gear indicator on our bikes so we need to basically tap into the speed sensor and let the PCV do some quick calculations to turn speed and RPM into what gear we are in. It's actually pretty simple.
First you need to tap into the speed sensor. Basically hook the correct wire port on the PCV up to the pink wire coming out of the speed sensor (see the picture I took for where I tapped in). That's it from a physical point of view. I'll get to the software side shortly.
While you are at it, set up the temp sensor (so that you can tell the PCV to hold off using the Autotune until your engine is up to spec.). You will need to tap into a yellow-with-blue-stripe wire not too far away from the infamous blue connector. This also goes back to you PCV. I just routed the wires for these two back under the tank (following most of the other electrical bundles flowing through there).
Once that is done you need to set everything up in the software. My PCV came pre-configured with the speed scalar and gearing already set, but nothing in temperature. The problem is I live in the Rest of the World, and we here in the Rest of the World use the metric system (because it's frankly easier - decimal number system combined with a decimal measuring system) and the device was set up for those strange measurements you use over there in the USA. So I decided to reconfigure it all to make my life easier - the PCV doesn't care on what measuring system you use (if you want to measure your speed in parsecs, go right ahead), so long as all the different numbers used in the maths match up.
For those interested in the figures I came up with... (keep in mind these are for METRIC measurements, some may also be applicable to imperial applications, but you are better off doing it for yourselves)
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Interestingly if you take the speed scalar I calculated and multiply it by 1.6 you get a figure very close to what Dynojet supplied (a little over 9000). This is what you would expect and shows that both Dynojet's scalar is probably on the money and the one I came up with is good too.
Gearing is the next important thing. If you don't want to use the Dynojet supplied version you can do it yourself, which is what I did. Just pop the thing on the centre stand, turn it on, put it into gear and off you go (without, obviously, going anywhere). This is much easier if you have a second person to capture the gear information on the laptop, but I was able to do it solo.
For those interested, here is what I came up with.
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If you want to check that your settings are good it is a pretty simple piece of mathematics. Find a speed you like to travel at and make a mental note of the gear and RPMs. Next time you have a calculator handy take the RPM, divide by speed and then see if that number you come up with fits between the high and low gear points it the PCV. If it does, good stuff, everything is as it should be. If it is pretty close to the edge you may want to recalibrate the gear ratios for the PCV, but that's up to you.
As an example, say in 3rd gear I tend to be a little over 4500 RPM while travelling at 60km/h (which is about what my bike reports, but this is an example). If I go 4500/60 I get 75. Looking at my gear calibration in the PCV 3rd gear is about 82 to 65 - and 75 is well within that, so it's about right.
That's a pretty quick and dirty way of doing it, but if something is not right and you are using map-by-gear, it is worth having a quick check of such things.
Temp sensor isn't hard to configure either. I did a rough and ready setup (in Celsius, again metric folks), it�s probably a degree or 2 out at various points but extreme accuracy is not really needed as I only use it so the PCV knows when to start listening to the Autotune (which I do at 70 degrees C).
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Now onto the main show, the usage report.
Thankfully, map-by-gear saved the day. It really did fix the problems I was having before and the Autotune started to shine (which is good, the damn thing wasn't cheap!). Once you have this thing down pat it's worth spending some time tweaking - after reading some posts by CodeRighter I started playing with the accelpump function and can report the same findings as he did, setting it so that the PCV would ignore the autotune (and letting the ECUs accelpump functions work their magic) made it feel better under accelleration. I personally set mine to have a delta of 80% and for it to last for 100 revs with no increase in fuel (so it basically takes whatever the ECU says should go happen + the existing fuel map in the PCV). Also take the time to tweak your AFR table, and whenever you accept the trims, take a look through the table for any obscene changes from one cell to its immediate brother (they do slip in there, more on that shortly).
Performance is great, the whole bike feels better now, especially as I have been able to progressively refine the autotune generated fuel map (though riding!). Fuel consumption has dropped considerably as well, and I get some strange enjoyment out of taking a look at progressive graphs of changes in the fuel map (maybe that's my inner science/maths nerd feeling good about all that data!). I'll post up some more graphs from the map-by-gear setup shortly, but I have to work out which ones are worth looking at (as obviously there are many, many more graphs then pre-map-by-gear - about 6 times as many!).
The main issue I have encountered is when the Autotune decides to be silly with neighbouring cells. As in, say at 5% throttle, 5000 RPM you will have +15 in the fuel map, and then in 5250 RPM you will have -15 in the map. The Autotune, I think, allows this when you are decelerating (sudden rush of air from the decel vacuum confuses the O2 sensor and makes the system believe it is running really lean, so it richens up that cell). This problem should be resolved next time you pass through that cell on the way up, but sometimes that may not happen for a while (typically in a RPM/throttle/gear combination you do not experience frequently). This only affects the system for a very short period of time, basically that period before you fully close the throttle (as the autotune is ignored at 0% throttle), or when your RPM levels out if you are only partially closing the throttle. It does become a nasty problem in one set of circumstances, if you are cruising along with a steady RPM and throttle position, that just happens to be close to the transition point between 2 cells of significant difference, you can enter this sort of self supporting cycle of cell-jumping - basically, you enter into the 'bad' cell, the engine is suddenly starved of either fuel or air, as such power drops and with it the revs, they drop down into a 'good' cell, starvation is resolved, engine happy, revs jump back up into the bad cell, and so on. Very annoying, and as the Autotune is a post-mortem device, it doesn't seem to be able to pick up the problem very well. The only solution I have found while out on the road is to shut the throttle, let the RPM drop below the good cell, then power back on (gently, you are aiming for the problematic throttle opening AND RPMs) and let the bike rev up to above the 'bad' cell. Do this 2 or 3 times, problem solved. Another way (though it takes a little longer) is just to increase the revs in the 'bad' cell so that it is above the transition point, the Autotune will then resolve it on its own (probably as it is getting a stable reading from the O2 sensor). The problem would probably go away if Dynojet implemented a 'reverse' accelpump (a decelpump if you will) that would tell the PCV to ignore the autotune over a particular throttle-closing delta.
And as I promised, some graphs (with analysis) for Autotune with map-by-gear. I have tried to select 'interesting' graphs (because that means alot less graphs to save, upload then embed!), but if anyone wants a particular comparison done, just let me know.
nb. I have hidden it all in spoiler tags in order to save a bit of scrolling.
1st gear
Spoiler
Less then 10% throttle 1st gear is very erratic - I put that down to the fact that at those sorts of throttle positions I am powering up rather then level cruising, thus the fuel map will change frequently due to fuel, temp, and just how I feel like riding that day.
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Here CodeRighter's map is very spikey, mine is smoother - though there seems to be an interesting attraction to enriching 4750 RPM.
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Things remain relatively smooth through the line, but the Autotune clearly wants to lean out between 3000 and 6000 RPM.
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At 20% it seems Autotune wanted to stick to around the default map (which is basically Cozye's) - this remains the same at higher throttle openings - where Autotune has made a change it hasn't been dramaticly different from Cozye's map.
2nd gear
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I ride alot more in second gear then first, and it shows.
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Common theme here seems to be enlean-enrich-enlean-enrich. That there are not dramatic changes between readings is a good thing, the changes are more or less stable. The pattern seems to match up with where I am winding up the revs to get to speed (or when coming out of a slow corner), so I am not staying in 5% for long, then it leans out where I would be cruising, then starts getting rich again when I am wanting to stretch the bikes legs.
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A pretty uniform (if a bit spikey) progression. A strange contrast to the 5% throttle graph.
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Cozye's map seems to be way too rich here, and CodeRighter's map agrees! It does follow on from the 10% pretty nicely though.
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At 20% things start to richen up again. Interestingly Reading 6 there was straight after a very spirited ride in the hills and twisties, yet it is wanting to be leaner then the others.
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At 40% things start to look a bit more uniform, but I don't spend much time in that area when I am going around town, so the chances to get a reading are reduced.
3rd gear
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2%s tend to be very erratic as I tend to be either opening or closing the throttle at that point (rather then allowing time for a refined trim while holding the throttle steady). Even so, this graph is interesting as you can spot clear trends at particular RPM points.
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An interesting map due to how much change there is from one reading to another! Also a few interesting rouge spikes (which I think is related to the decel issue). You can also see at 5750 RPM from Reading 4 to Reading 5 that if you don't get back to that point in the map the 'bad' cell data can stick around for a while (we are talking 150-200 km here between readings!). Reading 6 eventually smoothed it all out though.
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10%, with a few exceptions, is much smoother then 5%. But it also once again shows just how rich Cozye's map is (and CodeRighter's map seems to agree).
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My map wants to remain leaner longer then CodeRighter's, but both again indicate Cozye's is too rich. I would put the differences between CodeRighter's and my maps as differences in mods (as I have my bike currently as stock as possible in the air/fuel department).
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Don't know what happened here - flat but jumpy. Seeing how closely I follow CodeRighter's line I guess it is meant to be. Honda's map must be interesting though...
4th gear
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This graph is good because you can clearly see the decel issue at 5000 RPM. Now imagine sitting at about 5000 RPM, bike is starved for air, looses revs, drops to 4900, suddenly has a higher air to fuel ratio, jumps back up (due to now normal power), and cycle. Clearly the 5000 RPM reading is an error.
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And contrast here where it's gone. Likely what I did is decel through the 5% position (without closing the throttle), but the 10% zone is fine.
5th gear
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Spikes everywhere - I think due to small decel while cruising (basically small speed adjustments on highways due to traffic, gentle slopes, etc).
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My and CodeRighter's maps seem to agree (and again disagree with Cozye's).
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Haven't used much 20% in fifth, but still an interesting display of how the Autotune makes changes over time (and doesn't always stick to them in the long run).
And for those interested, here is my map (as at Reading 6). Note that it is not a mature autotune reading, it has had in the region of 1500km of travel at this point. Use at your own risk, etc.
Autotune - Looking to the future
As it is all running well, I am starting to turn my mind to what to do next with my Autotune. I am thinking of running some experiments with it - mostly to see what sort of effect many of the common small mods have. One thing I would like to try is to disable the flapper valve again and see what the Autotune thinks (ie. will it richen up the mixture due to the extra air?). Also I wonder what changes to air flow my K&N filter has (which is why I put the OEM back in). Never know, I may even be able to spot some evidence that those budget mods to have an impact on performance (though the scale, and whether it is positive or not would remain unknown). I'll have to think about all of that.
I am more than happy to help out anyone else thinking of installing (or having trouble with) a PCV or Autotune. If you have questions, or want pictures, feel free to ask!
For those interested, screenshots of my throttle position and Autotune settings.
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(and I did warn you this would be a long piece!)
And now to finish off, various pics which may be useful...
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Where the speed and temp wires go (this is set out in Dynojets instructions)
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Labled image of the device in its housing - note that the USB cable is there on a permanent basis - I have it set up so that I can remove the USB type A plug from under the seat (and put it back again) without having to remove the seat at all - a real time saver!
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A screen shot of the PCV software with the bike at idle (and having started to warm up)
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A shot of it working, and you can check the software figures against the dash!
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Background
I was actually quite a happy-chappy with my VFR - the mods I had performed had already smoothed out the VTEC transition (though it wasn't bad to begin with), and response down low wasn't too bad either. My main complaint, if I was to have one, was the abruptness of the throttle control in 1st gear which made low speed work a chore (and I would normally cheat by feathering the clutch). I decided to grab a PCV (and eventually autotune) partially because it would hopefully make the bike even better at those infamous points, but also inspired by CodeRighter's efforts I decided 'why the hell not'. I guess in part this post is part of that why-the-hell-not process ;) .
I decided to buy my PCV and Autotune from the USA rather than locally - yeah, I know, frowned on by the power that be (Dynojet) but the reason was very simple - price. I don't have unlimited funds to throw about, and frankly the cost of purchasing those little boxes locally is crazy. On a good day I was looking at $AUD550 to 600 for the PCV, and another $450 to 500 for the Autotune. That means if I was getting it as cheap as I could I would be looking in the region of $AUD1000. In recent currency terms (with the $AU buying about 90 US cents) I was look at about $USD 900 if I bought locally. If I bought from the USA I was looking at about $USD 500 plus another $40 in postage (or $AUD 600, a $AUD 400 saving!). So in order to save myself some significant cash I obviously took the order from the US route. Yeah, yeah, no warranty or official support - but both parts would have to fail (and I order replacements) for me to only just be out of pocket compared to if I bought locally. I am all for supporting local business, and normally do so when possible, but I don't support price gouging by importers with an exclusive deal. I recommend to anyone else who would benefit from significant savings by buying internationally to do so :) .
As I was going to order from the US and I was in a penny pinching mood I ordered the PCV first and the Autotune about a month later (basically to pick up the items when there was a good deal on each of them). This meant I ran the PCV for over 4 weeks just by itself, and that alone taught me a few interesting things which I shall share shortly. As such, I will also break this part up into a PCV section and an Autotune section (hopefully that will also be more helpful to those not interested in the Autotune).
Going into this modification bonanza I had made a few relevant alterations to my bike (most of which are pretty much universal).
- Disabled the PAIR system
- Removed snorkel
- Disabled flapper
- K&N air filter
Otherwise, from an engine and mapping perspective, she was stock (so it still had the original exhaust).
PCV - Install and setup
Installation of the PCV (and PCIII) have been covered elsewhere, and as those guides point out, it's very simple.
All you really need to do is remove your rear seat to find some place to put the little red and black box (being non-ABS I placed mine behind the rear brake fluid reservoir, but it is small enough that you can place it in a number of good spots). Then lift your tank, fish out the designated cable connection (should be just behind the frame on the right hand) - disconnect this connector and plug it into the PCV. Now install the supplied O2 eliminators on the left hand side (you will likely need to remove the fairing for this). I tried to ensure that the now exposed O2 sensor plugs were still shielded inside the rubber electrical connector protector, but you could tape them up for extra peace of mind. After that you attach the ground wire to the negative terminal on the battery and you are set. Luckily the device comes with a pictorial instruction set showing you exactly how to do this, so you really cannot go wrong.
[image: Posted Image]
![[image: Posted Image]](http://www.users.on.net/~roehr/Bike/PCV/IMG_2139.jpg){kind=link}
Where my PCV lives
Once you have done that you are good to go. There are other wires you will need to hook up for more advanced features (in particular tapping into the speed sensor for map-by-gearing and the temp sensor for... well, engine temp. but I will get to those later as their value is limited without the autotune).
Hookup your PCV to your (Windows) laptop, load the software and it should automatically pull down the map pre-loaded onto the device. Now things alter a little for the 2002-2005 bikes (as the map comes preloaded with the 2006+ map). You will need to upload a new (suitable map) before you take it for a test drive, mostly due to the VTEC transition point changes (and probably a few other tweaks Honda implemented on the 2006+ ECU). With the latest version of the PCV software this is a piece of cake - simply download the suitable PCIII map and use the inbuilt converter - easier than doing by hand (as I had to). Once that is uploaded you are good to go! You may also want to check your throttle position settings and give it a run on the centre stand with your laptop plugged in, just to check that everything is working correctly.
PCV - Usage report (or, WTF is this thing doing!?!)
I personally decided to play it conservative and loaded up the default Dynojet 2002 map. I planned on eventually giving Cozye's map a go until I obtained an Autotune. To my surprise, and horror, the default map ran like absolute crap. It's hard to find words which described the horror of it's operation, but it was shocking. Surging all over the place, bucking and general bad, bad running. Realising that when diagnosing fuel mixture problems it's 'better' to go too rich then too lean, I decided to richen up the map (theory being that if it got worse, or failed to improve, I would lean it up instead - I had noticed the default map was considerably richer then Cozye's). This helped the problem, it was better behaved (but still clearly unhappy), but as you can imagine, fuel consumption went to the dogs. It had me stumped, the bike was fine before I installed the PCV, and the only other change at the time was the O2 elims (which are needed as per the Dynojet instructions). Clearly there was too much air in there, causing it to run lean. The only other clue I had was it was much worse below 6000RPM then above.
Resolved to solve the issue, I decided to start restoring parts of the bike to stock to see if some other change had caused the problems. Seeing as there are not many relevant changes made to my bike I decided to do it in two steps - first the flapper and snorkel, if that didn't work, the PAIR system and air filter (I planned on returning the air filter to the OEM model eventually anyway, but I'll cover why at a later point).
First up, flapper and snorkel. Up goes the tank and I man-handle those two back to their original function. I take the bike for a test ride and suddenly - wow, fixed! Still a little grumpy at me, but night and day type change from before - I safely put the remaining grumpiness down to the current map just being a default one rather than a map tweaked or custom made for the setup. My theory is that the flapper was at fault (because frankly the snorkels impact would be small compared). With the flapper disabled the bike would pull in too much air below 5500RPM (which from memory is it's cut-off, or rather, fully open, point), which when in closed loop mode would be compensated for by the ECU. Eliminate those O2 sensors and suddenly it doesn't work so good any more. Of course, this doesn't make sense in light of the number of people out there who have no issues with their PCs or O2 elims with the flapper disabled, but it did the trick for me.
So the lesson there is - if your bike is running like crap after you have just installed a power commander, check you air intakes.
After restoring the flapper I loaded up Cozye's map, which run rather well really. Over the next few weeks a tweaked it by feel, and the map progressively got better and better (well, felt like it anyway). I decided at that point that PCVs are great, and keenly awaited my next new 'toy', the Autotune.
Autotune - Install and setup
As I said above, I obtained my Autotune a little over 4 weeks after I had installed the PCV. By that point I was happy enough with my tweak-by-feel version of Cozye's map - enough that it would make a good base map to start with for my Autotune adventure.
Installation is pretty easy again, but there is a bit more to it then for the original PCV. As long as you have the tools it should not take you more then 90 minutes (including drinks breaks) if you take it slow and check you work. May I suggest you take it slow and check your work (I'll tell you why shortly). The instructions are pretty good so you should follow them, but they are not as good as the instructions for the PCV unit (I guess that's because they are generic all-bike instructions).
A few tips:
Do not forget the CAN terminator - you put it in the spare plug on the Autotune, not the PCV.
Make sure you install the cables properly - on the Autotune module there is a membrane protecting the internal connectors which you have to pierce - I used a small jewellers screwdriver first to do this, which made inserting the cables a piece of cake.
Make sure you get the cables in the correct order.
You can install the sensor in either of the O2 sensor positions (one is for cyl 1 & 3, the other cyl 2 & 4), but you will have a much easier time of it installing it in the leftwards most one (see pic).
I thought the O2 sensor cable connector (used to plug the sensor into the extension that runs to the module) looked like it was asking for dirt and crud to get into it, so I cocooned it is electrical tape. Probably not necessary, but I would rather not spend a few hours down the line cleaning it out with compressed air and contact cleaner (see pic).
I suggest hooking up the speed sensor and temp sensor wires now. Save yourself the trouble of doing it later (even if you don't intend to use either, though you really should). A decent length of wire will suffice, and use either posi-taps or slip the wire into a connector trick to connect them. See the below pictures to see which wires you are looking for on the bike. Remember these go to the PCV itself, not the Autotune.
[image: Posted Image]
![[image: Posted Image]](http://www.users.on.net/~roehr/Bike/PCV/IMG_2140.jpg){kind=link}
My Autotunes temporary accommodation (due to cableing for now)
[image: Posted Image]
![[image: Posted Image]](http://www.users.on.net/~roehr/Bike/PCV/IMG_2146.jpg){kind=link}
Where the O2 sensor goes (or rather replaces the existing one). Yes, my bike is dirty and in need of a good clean
[image: Posted Image]
![[image: Posted Image]](http://www.users.on.net/~roehr/Bike/PCV/IMG_2150.jpg){kind=link}
Autotune cable (in the black sheath) and wires for speed and temp sensors (white and yellow)
[image: Posted Image]
![[image: Posted Image]](http://www.users.on.net/~roehr/Bike/PCV/IMG_2152.jpg){kind=link}
Temp sensor is the yellow-with-blue-stripe wire
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![[image: Posted Image]](http://www.users.on.net/~roehr/Bike/PCV/IMG_2154.jpg){kind=link}
Speed sensor is the pretty little pink wire
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![[image: Posted Image]](http://www.users.on.net/~roehr/Bike/PCV/IMG_2153.jpg){kind=link}
O2 plug wrapped up for its own protection
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![[image: Posted Image]](http://www.users.on.net/~roehr/Bike/PCV/IMG_2155.jpg){kind=link}
Everything nicely tucked away
Once I had everything install, I popped the bike up on the centre stand, turned it on and let the bike warm up with the PCV plugged into my laptop (so I could see all the readings). Much to my horror, the AFR continued to be reported as 9.99 - according to the instructions this is a bad sign. I went over and double checked everything but it still reported 9.99 - but no other errors and its little LED was blinking correctly. Turns out that before I wrapped up the 12v connection for the Autotune (which powers the O2 sensors heating element) in electrical tape, I forgot to actually connect the lead to a 12v source! (whoops). Once I did this everything went fine. Lesson here is make sure everything is correctly hooked up - and no heater, no working, even though the exhaust would have gotten it up to operating temp.
Final setup is easy too - Dynojet supplies a default AFR map which you can use (and after taking a quick look it should be fine to use the 2006+ AFR map on a 2002-2005). I cheated and recycled CodeRighters existing good work, which I then altered to suit my needs (basically leaning out where I tended to cruise). Activate the Autotune functionality in your PCV software and you are good to go (I'll cover gearing and temp shortly).
Autotune - Usage report (without by-gear mapping)
For a couple of reasons, the main one being the KISS principle (ie. keeping it simple) I decided to start off without using all that fancy PCV stuff like map-by-gear and accelpump. I figured I would get a handle on the basics first, and then move on to the advanced features. Let me summarise the rest of this section for you - don't bother with that crap, just skip straight to map-by-gear and set the rest up right to begin with - yeah, sure, there is more points of failure where a mistake could cause problems, but it will save you a lot of screwing around otherwise. There are now a few who have blazed this trail before you (and CodeRighters write ups are an excellent resource, so use them) so you can just copy what others have done.
Now for the detailed information. The Autotune worked, it actually worked rather well - considering that it was not made for the 2002-2005, nor supported, I was a little surprised at how easy it all was (sure, there isn't that much different between 2002-2005 and 2006+, but there are key differences, enough to cause problems). I started riding, it started trimming, I started accepting these trims and letting the Autotune work towards a nice balanced map of its own. The trims were pretty mad to begin with, but I sort of expected that - I figured it would work itself out over time (basically averaging its way towards an approximate optimum).
To help demonstrate what�s going on each time you go out for a ride (and then accept the new trim tables) here are some nice pretty graphs coming some sets of readings. For reference there is an average of CodeRighter's map (which he made using his autotune over some considerable time), there is the base map which I started with, and there is the fuel map from a number of 'reading' points were basically I have accepted the trims after a decent amount of riding (normally in the region of 100km). I have only included 2% to 20% throttle maps as they show the greatest amount of change (it starts to get less and less after that as I tend not to ride around at 60% throttle much).
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![[image: Posted Image]](http://www.users.on.net/~roehr/Bike/PCV/2%25.jpg){kind=link}
2% throttle
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![[image: Posted Image]](http://www.users.on.net/~roehr/Bike/PCV/5%25.jpg){kind=link}
5% throttle
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![[image: Posted Image]](http://www.users.on.net/~roehr/Bike/PCV/10%25.jpg){kind=link}
10% throttle
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![[image: Posted Image]](http://www.users.on.net/~roehr/Bike/PCV/15%25.jpg){kind=link}
15% throttle
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![[image: Posted Image]](http://www.users.on.net/~roehr/Bike/PCV/20%25.jpg){kind=link}
20% throttle
Graphs are great to see what sort of changes are going on, and clearly show the Autotune adapting as you ride (though you can tell that through feel as well). Unfortunately what these graphs don't is how it feels, and let me tell you, it felt like crap. Absolute crap. Similar to when I first installed the PCV, but in a different way. At points it was snatchy, at others, it was surgy, others boggy and occasionally bucky. Just bad. The real bad part of it was that it would switch between good and bad over the course of a ride (so obviously the system was trying to fix everything up).
I'll try to describe exactly what I felt was going on, and that should also make my eventual solution clear. I would start off and everything would be going fine, Get up into 2nd (which I tend to use as my suburban speed gear, so 40-60km/h in built up areas) and move off from home, all is good. Shift up to 3rd which I use for normal use 60-90km/h (and if I want some VTEC action 100km/h+), and things would feel bad, a little boggy, unresponsive, but it would fix itself shortly. Continue onwards basically switching between 1st, 2nd and 3rd (so suburban riding ranging from streets to main roads to avenues). Over time, it would get worse and worse and worse, and always at its worst just after a gear change - so I would be sitting at a particular RPM and throttle position for 2nd gear, then a short time later, same RPM and throttle position in 3rd gear, and it would run like absolute crap (sometimes even to the point where it felt violently unsafe). I would then later switch back to the same RPM and throttle position in 2nd gear (as I move between roads and streets) and it would be running again like absolute crap. Normally it would resolve itself, but it tended take a couple of RPM 'sweeps' (basically open the throttle a little to increase the RPM, close it a little to drop it below the range in question, then re-open, and re-close, do this 3 or 4 times and the feel improved, but wasn't really fixed). The solution was clear, map-by-gear - clearly the setting that the Autotune was establishing for a particular RPM and throttle position combination would work in one gear, but not in another. You can sort of see the problem in the graphs where between one reading and another there has been a crazy change - which I took to mean that in one trim-accept the last time I was at that throttle and RPM point I was in one gear, and at the other trim-accept I was in a different gear.
Lesson here follows, just go straight to map-by-gear. Really, it is that much better.
Autotune - Usage report (with by-gear mapping)
Map-by-gear is pretty easy to set up. There is no gear indicator on our bikes so we need to basically tap into the speed sensor and let the PCV do some quick calculations to turn speed and RPM into what gear we are in. It's actually pretty simple.
First you need to tap into the speed sensor. Basically hook the correct wire port on the PCV up to the pink wire coming out of the speed sensor (see the picture I took for where I tapped in). That's it from a physical point of view. I'll get to the software side shortly.
While you are at it, set up the temp sensor (so that you can tell the PCV to hold off using the Autotune until your engine is up to spec.). You will need to tap into a yellow-with-blue-stripe wire not too far away from the infamous blue connector. This also goes back to you PCV. I just routed the wires for these two back under the tank (following most of the other electrical bundles flowing through there).
Once that is done you need to set everything up in the software. My PCV came pre-configured with the speed scalar and gearing already set, but nothing in temperature. The problem is I live in the Rest of the World, and we here in the Rest of the World use the metric system (because it's frankly easier - decimal number system combined with a decimal measuring system) and the device was set up for those strange measurements you use over there in the USA. So I decided to reconfigure it all to make my life easier - the PCV doesn't care on what measuring system you use (if you want to measure your speed in parsecs, go right ahead), so long as all the different numbers used in the maths match up.
For those interested in the figures I came up with... (keep in mind these are for METRIC measurements, some may also be applicable to imperial applications, but you are better off doing it for yourselves)
[image: Posted Image]
![[image: Posted Image]](http://www.users.on.net/~roehr/Bike/PCV/Scalar.jpg){kind=link}
Interestingly if you take the speed scalar I calculated and multiply it by 1.6 you get a figure very close to what Dynojet supplied (a little over 9000). This is what you would expect and shows that both Dynojet's scalar is probably on the money and the one I came up with is good too.
Gearing is the next important thing. If you don't want to use the Dynojet supplied version you can do it yourself, which is what I did. Just pop the thing on the centre stand, turn it on, put it into gear and off you go (without, obviously, going anywhere). This is much easier if you have a second person to capture the gear information on the laptop, but I was able to do it solo.
For those interested, here is what I came up with.
[image: Posted Image]
![[image: Posted Image]](http://www.users.on.net/~roehr/Bike/PCV/Gears.jpg){kind=link}
If you want to check that your settings are good it is a pretty simple piece of mathematics. Find a speed you like to travel at and make a mental note of the gear and RPMs. Next time you have a calculator handy take the RPM, divide by speed and then see if that number you come up with fits between the high and low gear points it the PCV. If it does, good stuff, everything is as it should be. If it is pretty close to the edge you may want to recalibrate the gear ratios for the PCV, but that's up to you.
As an example, say in 3rd gear I tend to be a little over 4500 RPM while travelling at 60km/h (which is about what my bike reports, but this is an example). If I go 4500/60 I get 75. Looking at my gear calibration in the PCV 3rd gear is about 82 to 65 - and 75 is well within that, so it's about right.
That's a pretty quick and dirty way of doing it, but if something is not right and you are using map-by-gear, it is worth having a quick check of such things.
Temp sensor isn't hard to configure either. I did a rough and ready setup (in Celsius, again metric folks), it�s probably a degree or 2 out at various points but extreme accuracy is not really needed as I only use it so the PCV knows when to start listening to the Autotune (which I do at 70 degrees C).
[image: Posted Image][image: Posted Image]
![[image: Posted Image]](http://www.users.on.net/~roehr/Bike/PCV/Temp1.jpg){kind=link}
![[image: Posted Image]](http://www.users.on.net/~roehr/Bike/PCV/Temp2.jpg){kind=link}
Now onto the main show, the usage report.
Thankfully, map-by-gear saved the day. It really did fix the problems I was having before and the Autotune started to shine (which is good, the damn thing wasn't cheap!). Once you have this thing down pat it's worth spending some time tweaking - after reading some posts by CodeRighter I started playing with the accelpump function and can report the same findings as he did, setting it so that the PCV would ignore the autotune (and letting the ECUs accelpump functions work their magic) made it feel better under accelleration. I personally set mine to have a delta of 80% and for it to last for 100 revs with no increase in fuel (so it basically takes whatever the ECU says should go happen + the existing fuel map in the PCV). Also take the time to tweak your AFR table, and whenever you accept the trims, take a look through the table for any obscene changes from one cell to its immediate brother (they do slip in there, more on that shortly).
Performance is great, the whole bike feels better now, especially as I have been able to progressively refine the autotune generated fuel map (though riding!). Fuel consumption has dropped considerably as well, and I get some strange enjoyment out of taking a look at progressive graphs of changes in the fuel map (maybe that's my inner science/maths nerd feeling good about all that data!). I'll post up some more graphs from the map-by-gear setup shortly, but I have to work out which ones are worth looking at (as obviously there are many, many more graphs then pre-map-by-gear - about 6 times as many!).
The main issue I have encountered is when the Autotune decides to be silly with neighbouring cells. As in, say at 5% throttle, 5000 RPM you will have +15 in the fuel map, and then in 5250 RPM you will have -15 in the map. The Autotune, I think, allows this when you are decelerating (sudden rush of air from the decel vacuum confuses the O2 sensor and makes the system believe it is running really lean, so it richens up that cell). This problem should be resolved next time you pass through that cell on the way up, but sometimes that may not happen for a while (typically in a RPM/throttle/gear combination you do not experience frequently). This only affects the system for a very short period of time, basically that period before you fully close the throttle (as the autotune is ignored at 0% throttle), or when your RPM levels out if you are only partially closing the throttle. It does become a nasty problem in one set of circumstances, if you are cruising along with a steady RPM and throttle position, that just happens to be close to the transition point between 2 cells of significant difference, you can enter this sort of self supporting cycle of cell-jumping - basically, you enter into the 'bad' cell, the engine is suddenly starved of either fuel or air, as such power drops and with it the revs, they drop down into a 'good' cell, starvation is resolved, engine happy, revs jump back up into the bad cell, and so on. Very annoying, and as the Autotune is a post-mortem device, it doesn't seem to be able to pick up the problem very well. The only solution I have found while out on the road is to shut the throttle, let the RPM drop below the good cell, then power back on (gently, you are aiming for the problematic throttle opening AND RPMs) and let the bike rev up to above the 'bad' cell. Do this 2 or 3 times, problem solved. Another way (though it takes a little longer) is just to increase the revs in the 'bad' cell so that it is above the transition point, the Autotune will then resolve it on its own (probably as it is getting a stable reading from the O2 sensor). The problem would probably go away if Dynojet implemented a 'reverse' accelpump (a decelpump if you will) that would tell the PCV to ignore the autotune over a particular throttle-closing delta.
And as I promised, some graphs (with analysis) for Autotune with map-by-gear. I have tried to select 'interesting' graphs (because that means alot less graphs to save, upload then embed!), but if anyone wants a particular comparison done, just let me know.
nb. I have hidden it all in spoiler tags in order to save a bit of scrolling.
1st gear
Spoiler
Less then 10% throttle 1st gear is very erratic - I put that down to the fact that at those sorts of throttle positions I am powering up rather then level cruising, thus the fuel map will change frequently due to fuel, temp, and just how I feel like riding that day.
[image: Posted Image]
![[image: Posted Image]](http://www.users.on.net/~roehr/Bike/PCV/1st/10.jpg){kind=link}
Here CodeRighter's map is very spikey, mine is smoother - though there seems to be an interesting attraction to enriching 4750 RPM.
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![[image: Posted Image]](http://www.users.on.net/~roehr/Bike/PCV/1st/15.jpg){kind=link}
Things remain relatively smooth through the line, but the Autotune clearly wants to lean out between 3000 and 6000 RPM.
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![[image: Posted Image]](http://www.users.on.net/~roehr/Bike/PCV/1st/20.jpg){kind=link}
At 20% it seems Autotune wanted to stick to around the default map (which is basically Cozye's) - this remains the same at higher throttle openings - where Autotune has made a change it hasn't been dramaticly different from Cozye's map.
2nd gear
Spoiler
I ride alot more in second gear then first, and it shows.
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![[image: Posted Image]](http://www.users.on.net/~roehr/Bike/PCV/2nd/5.jpg){kind=link}
Common theme here seems to be enlean-enrich-enlean-enrich. That there are not dramatic changes between readings is a good thing, the changes are more or less stable. The pattern seems to match up with where I am winding up the revs to get to speed (or when coming out of a slow corner), so I am not staying in 5% for long, then it leans out where I would be cruising, then starts getting rich again when I am wanting to stretch the bikes legs.
[image: Posted Image]
![[image: Posted Image]](http://www.users.on.net/~roehr/Bike/PCV/2nd/10.jpg){kind=link}
A pretty uniform (if a bit spikey) progression. A strange contrast to the 5% throttle graph.
[image: Posted Image]
![[image: Posted Image]](http://www.users.on.net/~roehr/Bike/PCV/2nd/15.jpg){kind=link}
Cozye's map seems to be way too rich here, and CodeRighter's map agrees! It does follow on from the 10% pretty nicely though.
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![[image: Posted Image]](http://www.users.on.net/~roehr/Bike/PCV/2nd/20.jpg){kind=link}
At 20% things start to richen up again. Interestingly Reading 6 there was straight after a very spirited ride in the hills and twisties, yet it is wanting to be leaner then the others.
[image: Posted Image]
![[image: Posted Image]](http://www.users.on.net/~roehr/Bike/PCV/2nd/40.jpg){kind=link}
At 40% things start to look a bit more uniform, but I don't spend much time in that area when I am going around town, so the chances to get a reading are reduced.
3rd gear
Spoiler
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![[image: Posted Image]](http://www.users.on.net/~roehr/Bike/PCV/3rd/2.jpg){kind=link}
2%s tend to be very erratic as I tend to be either opening or closing the throttle at that point (rather then allowing time for a refined trim while holding the throttle steady). Even so, this graph is interesting as you can spot clear trends at particular RPM points.
[image: Posted Image]
![[image: Posted Image]](http://www.users.on.net/~roehr/Bike/PCV/3rd/5.jpg){kind=link}
An interesting map due to how much change there is from one reading to another! Also a few interesting rouge spikes (which I think is related to the decel issue). You can also see at 5750 RPM from Reading 4 to Reading 5 that if you don't get back to that point in the map the 'bad' cell data can stick around for a while (we are talking 150-200 km here between readings!). Reading 6 eventually smoothed it all out though.
[image: Posted Image]
![[image: Posted Image]](http://www.users.on.net/~roehr/Bike/PCV/3rd/10.jpg){kind=link}
10%, with a few exceptions, is much smoother then 5%. But it also once again shows just how rich Cozye's map is (and CodeRighter's map seems to agree).
[image: Posted Image]
![[image: Posted Image]](http://www.users.on.net/~roehr/Bike/PCV/3rd/15.jpg){kind=link}
My map wants to remain leaner longer then CodeRighter's, but both again indicate Cozye's is too rich. I would put the differences between CodeRighter's and my maps as differences in mods (as I have my bike currently as stock as possible in the air/fuel department).
[image: Posted Image]
![[image: Posted Image]](http://www.users.on.net/~roehr/Bike/PCV/3rd/20.jpg){kind=link}
Don't know what happened here - flat but jumpy. Seeing how closely I follow CodeRighter's line I guess it is meant to be. Honda's map must be interesting though...
4th gear
Spoiler
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![[image: Posted Image]](http://www.users.on.net/~roehr/Bike/PCV/4th/5.jpg){kind=link}
This graph is good because you can clearly see the decel issue at 5000 RPM. Now imagine sitting at about 5000 RPM, bike is starved for air, looses revs, drops to 4900, suddenly has a higher air to fuel ratio, jumps back up (due to now normal power), and cycle. Clearly the 5000 RPM reading is an error.
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![[image: Posted Image]](http://www.users.on.net/~roehr/Bike/PCV/4th/10.jpg){kind=link}
And contrast here where it's gone. Likely what I did is decel through the 5% position (without closing the throttle), but the 10% zone is fine.
5th gear
Spoiler
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![[image: Posted Image]](http://www.users.on.net/~roehr/Bike/PCV/5th/5.jpg){kind=link}
Spikes everywhere - I think due to small decel while cruising (basically small speed adjustments on highways due to traffic, gentle slopes, etc).
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![[image: Posted Image]](http://www.users.on.net/~roehr/Bike/PCV/5th/10.jpg){kind=link}
My and CodeRighter's maps seem to agree (and again disagree with Cozye's).
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![[image: Posted Image]](http://www.users.on.net/~roehr/Bike/PCV/5th/20.jpg){kind=link}
Haven't used much 20% in fifth, but still an interesting display of how the Autotune makes changes over time (and doesn't always stick to them in the long run).
And for those interested, here is my map (as at Reading 6). Note that it is not a mature autotune reading, it has had in the region of 1500km of travel at this point. Use at your own risk, etc.
Autotune - Looking to the future
As it is all running well, I am starting to turn my mind to what to do next with my Autotune. I am thinking of running some experiments with it - mostly to see what sort of effect many of the common small mods have. One thing I would like to try is to disable the flapper valve again and see what the Autotune thinks (ie. will it richen up the mixture due to the extra air?). Also I wonder what changes to air flow my K&N filter has (which is why I put the OEM back in). Never know, I may even be able to spot some evidence that those budget mods to have an impact on performance (though the scale, and whether it is positive or not would remain unknown). I'll have to think about all of that.
I am more than happy to help out anyone else thinking of installing (or having trouble with) a PCV or Autotune. If you have questions, or want pictures, feel free to ask!
For those interested, screenshots of my throttle position and Autotune settings.
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![[image: Posted Image]](http://www.users.on.net/~roehr/Bike/PCV/Throttle.jpg){kind=link}
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![[image: Posted Image]](http://www.users.on.net/~roehr/Bike/PCV/Autotune.jpg){kind=link}
(and I did warn you this would be a long piece!)
And now to finish off, various pics which may be useful...
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![[image: Posted Image]](http://www.users.on.net/~roehr/Bike/PCV/IMG_2157.jpg){kind=link}
Where the speed and temp wires go (this is set out in Dynojets instructions)
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![[image: Posted Image]](http://www.users.on.net/~roehr/Bike/PCV/IMG_2159.jpg){kind=link}
Labled image of the device in its housing - note that the USB cable is there on a permanent basis - I have it set up so that I can remove the USB type A plug from under the seat (and put it back again) without having to remove the seat at all - a real time saver!
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![[image: Posted Image]](http://www.users.on.net/~roehr/Bike/PCV/AllWorking.jpg){kind=link}
A screen shot of the PCV software with the bike at idle (and having started to warm up)
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![[image: Posted Image]](http://www.users.on.net/~roehr/Bike/PCV/IMG_2160.jpg){kind=link}
A shot of it working, and you can check the software figures against the dash!
![[image: Posted Image]](http://www.users.on.net/~roehr/Bike/PCV/delta/5.jpg){kind=link}
![[image: Posted Image]](http://www.users.on.net/~roehr/Bike/PCV/delta/10.jpg){kind=link}
![[image: Posted Image]](http://www.users.on.net/~roehr/Bike/PCV/delta/15.jpg){kind=link}