VFRDiscussion ARCHIVE / READ-ONLYREAD-ONLY

My 3rd gen Frankenviffer

76 posts Started 25 Aug 2010 Last recovered post 20 Aug 2014 Wayback Machine snapshot 10 Jul 2017

#1

OK, at some point I promised to do a write up of the conversion of my '91 so here goes. The bike is far from completed but it's driveable and I've logged some 3000km on it this summer. Next winter the work continues.

Here's an early pic from the spring of 2009 when I started with VTR1000F front end conversion along with CBR918RR brakes.

[image: gallery_16614_5090_149953.jpg]

In the early stages

At this point I also went through the internals of the fork after having read about the poor suspension quality of the VTR. The springs are 0.866kg/mm (8,5N/mm) Öhlins straight rate springs for the VTR.

The modified the shim stacks are the following:

Compression stack:

17 x 0.4

Showa 3 port surface dressed - bleed notches removed, with 1mm bleed

17 x 0.10

16 x 0.10 (2)

15 x 0.15

14 x 0.10

C 8.5 x 0.20

11.4 x 0.4

Rebound stack:

17 x 0.4

Showa 3 port surface dressed - bleed notches removed, with 1mm bleed

17 x 0.10 (8)

16 x 0.10 (3)

15 x 0.15

14 x 0.15

C 8.5 x 0.20

11.4 x 0.4

12.5 x 2.6

After some testing I settled on 120mm oil height IIRC which seems to be working great. Here's a little pic of the work:

[image: gallery_16614_5090_909431.jpg]

DSCN7761.JPG

And one with the finished front end:

[image: gallery_16614_5090_676162.jpg]

DSCN7894.JPG

The bike was ridden like this almost the whole summer of 2009. And while the front end felt great the rear suspension was not up to par and so I decided to contact Jamie D for a CBR929 rear shock. That was a great decision. I could feel the tremendeous improvement in ride quality and stability right from the start.

Then last fall I had read enough about FotoMoto's CBR600RR and other's conversions to have a go at it myself. I'll let the pics tell the story:

[image: gallery_16614_5090_217613.jpg]

DSCN7908.JPG

Fitting the CBR fairing stay.

[image: gallery_16614_5090_151122.jpg]

DSCN7909.JPG

Test fitting the front fairings. Also note the Coerce fork brace made for the VTR. Fit's perfectly.

[image: gallery_16614_5090_545730.jpg]

DSCN7910.JPG

New chinese front rotors from Ebay. Currently I ridden 3000km with these and no complaints what so ever.

[image: gallery_16614_5090_402129.jpg]

DSCN7915.JPG

The Koso gauges installed. I had the same trouble FotoMoto had with bouncing tach needle above 6000rpm and no trick I tried cured it while using the original tach wire for gauges. Switching to the coil sensor wire supplied with the Koso remedied this. It's connected in between the the coil low voltage terminal and ECU and the gauge is set up for a 2 stroke 1 cyl engine and "Hi act" IIRC. Can check this if anyone needs the info. The temp sensor is the one supplied with the gauges. With this set up the gauges work perfectly.

[image: gallery_16614_5090_340530.jpg]

Koso RX1N gauges All wired in and working but no temp yet.

More test fitting, now with the windshield installed.

[image: gallery_16614_5090_579174.jpg]

Windshield installed

Bracket for the fairing made out of aluminium sheet to use the original speed fasteners.

[image: gallery_16614_5090_826363.jpg]

DSCN7987.JPG

Wiring in the electrical speed sensor from a 2001 VFR800. Using the Koso's 5V supply for speed sensor and splicing the VFR800 unit into the gauges original wire worked perfectly. Currently my speedo is set up with GPS within 1% accuracy.

[image: gallery_16614_5090_261817.jpg]

DSCN7990.JPG

The fuel gauge also works nice. It's even accurate where the original was not quite. :laughing6-hehe:

[image: gallery_16614_5090_652836.jpg]

DSCN7997.JPG

Also installed Factory Pro shift kit (the kit I got must have been made on Monday since I had to reassemble it correctly), a lighter battery, an aluminium rear sprocket with 15-45 gearing, VTR1000F clipons and more.

[image: gallery_16614_5090_215151.jpg]

Current state of things Trial fitting of the CBR600RR upper. Oil change in process and Factory Pro shift kit installed. Still lots to be done.

Also installed LED signal mirrors from Ebay.

[image: gallery_16614_5090_796807.jpg]

It's a driver... ...and also very incomplete.

The VTR clipons are visible in this pic. Also the brake master is a radial unit from a 06 GSX-R1000 but I could get it blead properly so switched back to the CBR918RR master that works great. Probably the problems with the bleeding are caused by me using original VFR length braided lines where I would have needed shorter ones with 90deg ends for the Suzuki master.

[image: gallery_16614_5090_856041.jpg]

The cockpit as it's now.

After the last pic I've installed VTR1000F clutch master and a Delkevic titanium stubby muffler (only 1,25kgs). I've calculated the bike has lost some 12-15kgs (26-33lbs) in total and will lose more during next winter. Made some measurements using the Koso's performance test and got a couple of 4,2s 0-100kph runs so she runs strong (the needles shimmed and a BMC filter installed).

Coming up is a jet kit with larger intake snorkel, an aluminium rear subframe with a '04 GSX-R600 tail fairing and LED lights and either a high mount of left exit exhaust using the Delkevic can without the huge collector box and of course a paint job (original color). Will post pics when get them things done.

EDIT: Also changed to GP-shifting using modified gear linkage from an old CBR600F.

Edited August 25, 2010 by FinnRC36
#2

Very Hyyva!!! :laughing6-hehe:

(hyyva meaning good in finnish i think....) :goofy:

#3
Dutchy

Very Hyyva!!! :goofy:

(hyyva meaning good in finnish i think....) :fing02:

Thanks! And yes, hyvä does mean good in finnish :laughing6-hehe:

#4

Nice work, good luck finishing it!

#5

You should really swap that ugly 8 spoke wheel for a modern 6th Gen wheel. Lucky for you I am willing to do the swap for free :fing02:

Rollin

#6
SEBSPEED

Nice work, good luck finishing it!

Thanks! That means a lot coming from you. :biggrin:

RollinAgain

You should really swap that ugly 8 spoke wheel for a modern 6th Gen wheel. Lucky for you I am willing to do the swap for free :biggrin:

Rollin

You better keep trying cause I'm not going for that one :fing02:

#8

Very Nice :fing02: in the first picture is that a Vega parked next to it?

Gary

#9
V-FORE

Very Nice :fing02: in the first picture is that a Vega parked next to it?

Gary

Or maybe a 71-72 Camaro?

#10
V-FORE

Very Nice :fing02: in the first picture is that a Vega parked next to it?

Gary

No that's my of my old '73 Z28 Camaro. Sold this spring.

#11
FinnRC36
V-FORE

Very Nice :biggrin: in the first picture is that a Vega parked next to it?

Gary

No that's my of my old '73 Z28 Camaro. Sold this spring.

The front corner looks just like the 71-73 Vega Nose, the only diff would be the camaro hood lifts up from the front, the vega lifts from the rear....

#12

Did I hear the word Vega?!?!? biggrin.gif

Good job Finn!! Looking forward to pics of you riding it.

C

#13
FinnRC36

After the last pic I've installed VTR1000F clutch master and a Delkevic titanium stubby muffler (only 1,25kgs). I've calculated the bike has lost some 12-15kgs (26-33lbs) in total and will lose more during next winter. Made some measurements using the Koso's performance test and got a couple of 4,2s 0-100kph runs so she runs strong (the needles shimmed and a BMC filter installed).

Coming up is a jet kit with larger intake snorkel, an aluminium rear subframe with a '04 GSX-R600 tail fairing and LED lights and either a high mount of left exit exhaust using the Delkevic can without the huge collector box and of course a paint job (original color). Will post pics when get them things done.

EDIT: Also changed to GP-shifting using modified gear linkage from an old CBR600F.

AWESOME!!!! :biggrin: :fing02: :fing02:

It doesn't seem all that long ago that you ask me those first few questions. Looks like you've been putting those Finnish winters to good use! :happy: Stage two this winter should be even more fun. Keep us updated.

#14
FotoMoto

AWESOME!!!! :fing02: :woohoo: :wheel:

It doesn't seem all that long ago that you ask me those first few questions. Looks like you've been putting those Finnish winters to good use! :wink: Stage two this winter should be even more fun. Keep us updated.

Thanks man! You're right it wasn't long ago but time seems to just fly by. Well if you've got snow on the ground for 5 months a year you really gotta have something to tinker with :fing02:

#15
FinnRC36
Dutchy

Very Hyyva!!! :fing02:

(hyyva meaning good in finnish i think....) :woohoo:

Thanks! And yes, hyvä does mean good in finnish :fing02:

Good in Finnish and a nice looking finish! :wheel:

Well done mate!

#16

So here's a little peek on something I've been working on:

[image: gallery_16614_5090_925796.jpg]

07122010008.jpg

It's the new subframe I mentioned earlier. Or at least the start of it. It's made out of 3mm aluminium sheet. I'll be making it one piece with the rear fender and battery box, all made out of aluminium sheet.

[image: gallery_16614_5090_850329.jpg]

07122010007.jpg

Here's a mockup pic from the tail fairing. I'll be using the stock seat so the fairing is modified to fit that. Can't wait to see it finished :biggrin:

[image: gallery_16614_5090_29846.jpg]

07122010006.jpg

[image: gallery_16614_5090_246537.jpg]

07122010005.jpg

[image: gallery_16614_5090_758051.jpg]

07122010004.jpg

[image: gallery_16614_5090_488248.jpg]

07122010002.jpg

Sorry for the poor quality of the pics (taken with my phone).

#17

Now this is the kind of stuff I love to read about!

Pending some better quality pics, that looks great! I like how you've integrated the stock seat with the GSXR tail!

#18

Looks like you will not be carrying any passengers with the new subframe due to the weight?

#19
Veefer800Canuck

Looks like you will not be carrying any passengers with the new subframe due to the weight?

Carrying passengers is not a real priority for me but the subframe does support the seat under the passenger too. I just haven't calculated would it need reinforcing around the (upper)mounting points to be strong enough to carry passengers. I'm thinking maybe it would but I'm not sure. It does have quite a lot of material up there.

#20
SEBSPEED

Now this is the kind of stuff I love to read about!

Pending some better quality pics, that looks great! I like how you've integrated the stock seat with the GSXR tail!

Thanks man I really appreciate it :cool: The better pictures might take a while though as I'm more into building than I'm into taking pictures.

#21

Nice, I presume you have access to a metal break / bending machine? If you are bending that by hand you have talent.

I might have to do my own interpretation of this, I really like it.

#22

Wow Jaakko, that looks truly amazing! You have a great eye for proportion.

Inspiring stuff, I might have to go back to work on mine ;)

#23
VIFFER93

Nice, I presume you have access to a metal break / bending machine? If you are bending that by hand you have talent.

I might have to do my own interpretation of this, I really like it.

Well I do have a little manual bender but it's not sturdy enough to bend the long flanges on the sides, those were done with a hammer using the bender as a vice to hold the plate in place. I tell you it's really hard work hammering 3mm thick sheet even though it's aluminium. The shorter bend under the passenger seat I was able to bend with the bender but I had to hammer those bends also to get the angle sharp enough.

The Phantom

Wow Jaakko, that looks truly amazing! You have a great eye for proportion.

Inspiring stuff, I might have to go back to work on mine ;)

Thanks Murray. Yeah you really should go and finish yours :fing02:

Edited May 6, 2011 by FinnRC36
#24
FinnRC36
Veefer800Canuck

Looks like you will not be carrying any passengers with the new subframe due to the weight?

Carrying passengers is not a real priority for me but the subframe does support the seat under the passenger too. I just haven't calculated would it need reinforcing around the (upper)mounting points to be strong enough to carry passengers. I'm thinking maybe it would but I'm not sure. It does have quite a lot of material up there.

3mm? I had a 3mm steel folded sheet metal rack rip at the bends just with a small mini hard case attached to it. I would be more worried about that then a passenger, Perhaps some reinforcing just for YOU would be in order! The sub frame takes a beating.

#25

are you going to box it up? ..usa ,speak for weld up it with more walls.. that WILL make it very strong.. you may not carry a babe much.. but you may want to haul some other stuff.

:fing02:

#26
HispanicSlammer
FinnRC36
Veefer800Canuck

Looks like you will not be carrying any passengers with the new subframe due to the weight?

Carrying passengers is not a real priority for me but the subframe does support the seat under the passenger too. I just haven't calculated would it need reinforcing around the (upper)mounting points to be strong enough to carry passengers. I'm thinking maybe it would but I'm not sure. It does have quite a lot of material up there.

3mm? I had a 3mm steel folded sheet metal rack rip at the bends just with a small mini hard case attached to it. I would be more worried about that then a passenger, Perhaps some reinforcing just for YOU would be in order! The sub frame takes a beating.

If you look closely to the pics you'll see that the flange is bent under the mounting bolt at the mounting points. That gives me 6mm thickness there and the flange is widened at the end to give more cross section around the mounting holes.

So I estimate that the material cross section at the mounting points is the same as in the aluminium subframe of F4i which is guess is made out of 20mm by 20mm square tubing with no more than 3mm wall thickness. I haven't been able to confirm these figures so if you have the exact numbers I'm listening.

As the subframe of a 3rd gen bike is shorter and the mounting points further apart vertically as in the F4i (check the pics of this thread ) the loads at the mounting points are less than in the case of the F4i which to my knowledge has the capasity for a passenger. So I think that the current structure is enough to carry my weight.

gll429

are you going to box it up? ..usa ,speak for weld up it with more walls.. that WILL make it very strong.. you may not carry a babe much.. but you may want to haul some other stuff.

:fing02:

The whole thing will be boxed as one unit when I'm done. I'll be adding the battery box and the fender to the assembly and weld it all up. I do have to find a TIG welder to do the welding as I only have a MIG welder and barely any experience welding aluminium.

#27

Some work I got done. I know it's going slow but at least I've got something done :fing02:

The rear disc to fit the VFR400R rear caliper:

[image: gallery_16614_5090_691994.jpg]

New Ø240mm rear disc in place

And here's the rear brakes finished just needs a little more bleeding. The hugger being mocked up.

[image: gallery_16614_5090_108623.jpg]

New rear caliper and rotor in place and mocking up the hugger

There's some more shots in my gallery but they're all taken with the phones camera so quality is what it is.

The rear brake mods shaved about 1,2kg off the rear and all of it unsprung weight :biggrin:

Edited January 11, 2011 by FinnRC36
#28
FinnRC36

The rear brake mods shaved about 1,2kg off the rear and all of it unsprung weight :biggrin:

Nice! How about some details about the conversion?

#29
SEBSPEED
FinnRC36

The rear brake mods shaved about 1,2kg off the rear and all of it unsprung weight :biggrin:

Nice! How about some details about the conversion?

Okay, the caliper its stay and bracket are from a VFR400R NC24, 1989 IIRC. Oops, it's more than 1,2kg since I forgot that the NC24 caliper stay is aluminium where as the stock is steel. So it's more like 1,4kg lighter :biggrin:

The rotor is a modified Braking YA46RID meant for some Yamaha scooter. This was chosen because the OD matched the NC rotor and bolt circle was the closest to stock I could find (114mm vs 110mm). I had to elongate the mounting holes 2mm to get the rotor to bolt up to the stock spindle. I also enlargened them to 10mm to accept CBR1100XX rear rotor bolts for the bolt heads to clear the caliper hanger. The bolts had to be shortened also.

(Edit: corrected parts nomenclature)

Edited January 12, 2011 by FinnRC36
#30
FinnRC36

Okay, the caliper its hanger and hanger bracket are from a VFR400R NC24, 1989 IIRC. Oops, it's more than 1,2kg since I forgot that the NC24 bracket is aluminium where as the stock is steel. So it's more like 1,4kg lighter :biggrin:

The rotor is a modified Braking YA46RID meant for some Yamaha scooter. This was chosen because the OD matched the NC rotor and bolt circle was the closest to stock I could find (114mm vs 110mm). I had to elongate the mounting holes 2mm to get the rotor to bolt up to the stock spindle. I also enlargened them to 10mm to accept CBR1100XX rear rotor bolts for the bolts to clear the caliper hanger. The bolts had to shortened also.

Aha, thanks. The enlarging of the holes sounds a bit sketchy - not something I would do personally but I hope it works out for you.

I was hoping maybe you just adapted a regular CBR600/1000 caliper to your VFR bracket, as I have thought of doing the same. Guess I will continue to ponder my own version! :biggrin:

#32
SEBSPEED
FinnRC36

Okay, the caliper its hanger and hanger bracket are from a VFR400R NC24, 1989 IIRC. Oops, it's more than 1,2kg since I forgot that the NC24 bracket is aluminium where as the stock is steel. So it's more like 1,4kg lighter :biggrin:

The rotor is a modified Braking YA46RID meant for some Yamaha scooter. This was chosen because the OD matched the NC rotor and bolt circle was the closest to stock I could find (114mm vs 110mm). I had to elongate the mounting holes 2mm to get the rotor to bolt up to the stock spindle. I also enlargened them to 10mm to accept CBR1100XX rear rotor bolts for the bolts to clear the caliper hanger. The bolts had to shortened also.

Aha, thanks. The enlarging of the holes sounds a bit sketchy - not something I would do personally but I hope it works out for you.

I was hoping maybe you just adapted a regular CBR600/1000 caliper to your VFR bracket, as I have thought of doing the same. Guess I will continue to ponder my own version! :biggrin:

Well it does sound bad but as there is more material left around the bolt holes than in some other designs I've seen I'm not worried at all. And since there is no aligning ID for the rotor the little eccentricity I may have there can't be that bad. I was careful to remove as little material as possible so I think I'll be okay. :happy:

Kel

Looks similar to my setup. My caliper is from a HawkGT...I think?

[image: DSC03447.JPG?psid=1]

It does look exactly like the one you have and the pads are the same so I guess the Hawk has the same caliper and parts. I just found these cheaper on Ebay.

#33
SEBSPEED
FinnRC36

Okay, the caliper its hanger and hanger bracket are from a VFR400R NC24, 1989 IIRC. Oops, it's more than 1,2kg since I forgot that the NC24 bracket is aluminium where as the stock is steel. So it's more like 1,4kg lighter :biggrin:

The rotor is a modified Braking YA46RID meant for some Yamaha scooter. This was chosen because the OD matched the NC rotor and bolt circle was the closest to stock I could find (114mm vs 110mm). I had to elongate the mounting holes 2mm to get the rotor to bolt up to the stock spindle. I also enlargened them to 10mm to accept CBR1100XX rear rotor bolts for the bolts to clear the caliper hanger. The bolts had to shortened also.

Aha, thanks. The enlarging of the holes sounds a bit sketchy - not something I would do personally but I hope it works out for you.

I was hoping maybe you just adapted a regular CBR600/1000 caliper to your VFR bracket, as I have thought of doing the same. Guess I will continue to ponder my own version! :biggrin:

Nice to see someone is able to work on thier bike. LIttle progress is better then none, which would be me at the moment.

I wonder if a triumph 955i or ST would work?

#34
VIFFER93
SEBSPEED
FinnRC36

Okay, the caliper its hanger and hanger bracket are from a VFR400R NC24, 1989 IIRC. Oops, it's more than 1,2kg since I forgot that the NC24 bracket is aluminium where as the stock is steel. So it's more like 1,4kg lighter :biggrin:

The rotor is a modified Braking YA46RID meant for some Yamaha scooter. This was chosen because the OD matched the NC rotor and bolt circle was the closest to stock I could find (114mm vs 110mm). I had to elongate the mounting holes 2mm to get the rotor to bolt up to the stock spindle. I also enlargened them to 10mm to accept CBR1100XX rear rotor bolts for the bolts to clear the caliper hanger. The bolts had to shortened also.

Aha, thanks. The enlarging of the holes sounds a bit sketchy - not something I would do personally but I hope it works out for you.

I was hoping maybe you just adapted a regular CBR600/1000 caliper to your VFR bracket, as I have thought of doing the same. Guess I will continue to ponder my own version! :biggrin:

Nice to see someone is able to work on thier bike. LIttle progress is better then none, which would be me at the moment.

I wonder if a triumph 955i or ST would work?

I'm happy to have some work done but there's still so much to do and only few months before the wheather permits riding again so I fear I can't get everything I've planned done. Only time will tell and I'm still hopeful.

Hey Seb, if you want to fit a caliper that's like the one CBR600/1000 has I think the NC24/Hawk caliper is the easiest since it pretty much bolts on. You could always drill the spindle for another bolt pattern to use a Ø240mm of your choise (it would be hard since it's hardened) or you could modify the stock or NC24 caliper stay to move the caliper 8mm outwards to be able to use the stock rotor.

I didn't want to do this since I wanted to lighten the parts as much as easily possible and reducing the diameter decreases the rotational inertia as well as mass. Also I'm not able to weld aluminium myself so I'd have had to use the heavy stock steel caliper stay. But I recall that not being a problem for you with would new TIG machinery and all :biggrin:

Also I seem to recall seeing someone having used the Triumph parts but that might be with the whole eccentric and spindle from a another bike. That would of course give you the choise of single nut wheels so many of us want.

Edited January 13, 2011 by FinnRC36
#35

Little something that I've gotten done. Installed the bigger VTR1000F intake snorkel on the stock aibox lid and the Factory jet kit for the carbs.

[image: gallery_16614_5090_522327.jpg]

The original snorkel and the carbs on the backround. And yes I know my workplace is a mess :biggrin:

#36

Got the carbs and airbox reinstalled. The VTR snorkel seems to fit in there nicely. I calculated that the new snorkel has a cross section equal to running the stock airbox without a snorkel but I wanted to use one to avoid turbulence in the intake air that running without a snorkel might cause. Well see how it works in a few months.

[image: gallery_16614_5090_388245.jpg]

20032011051 Airbox installed with the VTR1000F intake snorkel

#37

I think it will do a lot better than just removing the snorkel as sharp edges of the airbox opening become a restirctor with increasing air velocity.

Here is a graph showing a VTEC on the dyno with and without snorkel:

[image: desnorkelvtec2.jpg]

#38

The aluminium subframe is coming along, the battery box integrated to reinforce the mounting points:

[image: gallery_16614_5090_387175.jpg]

03042011054 Battery box for the subframe

Here's the subframe lined up, battery box bolted on and the undertail piece test fitted:

[image: gallery_16614_5090_136614.jpg]

21042011063 Mock up with the undertail piece

A view from the underside of the tail. Next up some minor fitting of the undertail piece and then off to the welder to have all the pieces welded together as a single piece:

[image: gallery_16614_5090_674789.jpg]

21042011067 View under the tail

Hope to get back on the road soon, the season is here!

#39

Nice work. It is a little late to suggest this but I moved my fuel pump and filter inboard. It really cleaned up nicely.

#40
FinnRC36

Also I seem to recall seeing someone having used the Triumph parts but that might be with the whole eccentric and spindle from a another bike. That would of course give you the choice of single nut wheels so many of us want.

Hey, I know that guy :biggrin: (or at lest one of them)

[image: gallery_12942_4282_236572.jpg]

DSC01792.JPG

I used the complete rear drive from a Triumph Speed Triple (all of the single sided swingarms from triumph have the same part numbers though) so that included ecccentric, cush, spindle, brake caliper and bracket (I bet you could swap some different calipers in if you want). I had to get some machining done on the axle to make it work, but it was just chasing the threads down farther and cutting off the extra length. One 5mm spacer was used for the wheel alignment and one 2.5mm spacer was used for the cush drive side. Works pretty well for me, and now I can fit any 5.5" Ducati rim on my VFR :fing02:

#41
VIFFER93

Nice work. It is a little late to suggest this but I moved my fuel pump and filter inboard. It really cleaned up nicely.

It's a good idea and not too late at all, totally doable with my subframe. Got any pics of your solution?

#42

Since my subframe is still at the welders I started on the new collector. Here's what I got done so far. It's going to be a right side high exit system with a lambda sensor to use with my home made mixture analyzer to check the mixtures. At this point it would be easier to make it left exit but I really like my center stand and it would potentially limit cornering clearence on the left side so I'm set on the right high pipe unless somebody can talk me out of it :laughing6-hehe: Of course modifying the center stand is possible...

[image: gallery_16614_5090_25572.jpg]

06052011072

The welds aren't pretty but they'll do. Sadly one of the mounting bolts on the rear cylinder manifold snapped while removing the collector so fixing that'll be extra work I really didn't need. If anyone has some tips on how to get it fixed without removing the manifold I'm all ears.

P.S. I weighed the old collector in the backround, it's about 4kg with the link pipe. I then weighed the pipe bends I bought for the new pipe and the new link pipe and they're 2,7kg in total and I've already cut off 0,5kg of that too. So I'm looking atleast 1,8kg weight reduction from the pipes. I'll post more numbers of that as I go along.

Edited May 6, 2011 by FinnRC36
#43

Test fitting the tail piece with the LED light. Looks IMO.

[image: gallery_16614_5090_227668.jpg]

20052011089

[image: gallery_16614_5090_316751.jpg]

20052011088

#44

Looking really good.... this is one of the most well thought-out projects I've seen in a long time.

What year VTR1000F snorkel did you use on your airbox? Did you use the Factory config 10 or 30 jet kit (Stage 1 or Stage 3)?

I've been thinking about doing something similar on my '93, any knowledge you could share would be very much appreciated.

Edited May 20, 2011 by deanc1963
#45
deanc1963

Looking really good.... this is one of the most well thought-out projects I've seen in a long time.

What year VTR1000F snorkel did you use on your airbox? Did you use the Factory config 10 or 30 jet kit (Stage 1 or Stage 3)?

I've been thinking about doing something similar on my '93, any knowledge you could share would be very much appreciated.

Any year VTR1000F snorkel will work as they're all the same as long as it's not from an SP1 or SP2. I have the stage1 jet kit and used the 132 mains but I haven't tested it yet so that may have to be changed.

Also I noticed that the US version of the VFR airbox may have some hose nipples that interfere with the VTR intake snorkel. I didn't have to worry about those as my bike doesn't have them as I live in Finland.

#46

Shaping the rear end and plate holder, need to get this done fast and get to riding :biggrin: A few more pics in my gallery.

[image: gallery_16614_5090_31453.jpg]

25052011093

#47

The exhaust header little more than tacked in to shape:

[image: gallery_16614_5090_5450.jpg]

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The exhaust trial fitting :cheerleader:

[image: gallery_16614_5090_188958.jpg]

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[image: gallery_16614_5090_60722.jpg]

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From this angle the exhaust looks good but I'm not totally satisfied with how it looks from the side. May have to work on that a little more. Also attached are the rear signals. Here's the exhaust from a different angle:

[image: gallery_16614_5090_381767.jpg]

27052011099

Crude photoshop of how it might look:

[image: gallery_16614_5090_157276.jpg]

gallery 16614 5090 381767

I'm thinking I'll shorten the link pipe from the upper end to get the can a little more forward and also I'll be able to raise the can a bit since it's only resting on the headers at this point. That way it'll look better but I'm still not totally convinced on the look but I really want to use the stainless link pipe I've got. Making another would be an option but I can't weld stainless so it would have to be black.

What do you guys think?

P.S: The side of the subframe really needs a cover plate, I know :laughing6-hehe:

Edited May 27, 2011 by FinnRC36
#48
FinnRC36
deanc1963

Looking really good.... this is one of the most well thought-out projects I've seen in a long time.

What year VTR1000F snorkel did you use on your airbox? Did you use the Factory config 10 or 30 jet kit (Stage 1 or Stage 3)?

I've been thinking about doing something similar on my '93, any knowledge you could share would be very much appreciated.

Any year VTR1000F snorkel will work as they're all the same as long as it's not from an SP1 or SP2. I have the stage1 jet kit and used the 132 mains but I haven't tested it yet so that may have to be changed.

Also I noticed that the US version of the VFR airbox may have some hose nipples that interfere with the VTR intake snorkel. I didn't have to worry about those as my bike doesn't have them as I live in Finland.

Thanks!

Yep, those hoses are for plumbing to recirculate air & clean up emissions. Most people pull them ans associated hardware off. Getting rid of them saves about 1.2 - 1.5 kilos (depending on model year).

Edited June 6, 2011 by deanc1963
#49

Here's the tailpiece ready to go on the bike. The subframe doesn't quite line up with the fairing but it'll have to do for now as I've already missed at least a month of riding time.

[image: gallery_16614_5090_66611.jpg]

#50
FinnRC36

I'm thinking I'll shorten the link pipe from the upper end to get the can a little more forward and also I'll be able to raise the can a bit

That was my firt thought too :fing02:

#51

Hey man!

That looks great!

The VFR on the very first picture looks exactly as mine now. I am preparing for a RC36 to CBR600RR conversion too! :)

Good luck with your project, looks awesome! ;)

#52
MrBike

Hey man!

That looks great!

The VFR on the very first picture looks exactly as mine now. I am preparing for a RC36 to CBR600RR conversion too! :)

Good luck with your project, looks awesome! ;)

Thanks man. I appreciate it. Here's an update, installed the subframe and exhaust and did most of the wiring. Just need to finish the wiring, make the exhaust hanger and install the fairings to go riding :cheerleader:

[image: gallery_16614_5090_98067.jpg]

12062011117

[image: gallery_16614_5090_61700.jpg]

12062011115

[image: gallery_16614_5090_29979.jpg]

12062011116

[image: gallery_16614_5090_183233.jpg]

12062011112

#53

Assembled the bike and rode it to work and back yesterday :cheerleader: Here are a couple of pics after.

[image: gallery_16614_5090_727296.jpg]

16062011123

[image: gallery_16614_5090_706152.jpg]

16062011122 After the first ride <img alt=":cheerleader:" src="http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/uploads/emoticons/cheerleader.gif"/>

Did you notice my HRC rear brake reservoir assembly? Looked for it on ebay and took the part numbers from the item picture and ordered the parts cheaper from David Silver spares :laughing6-hehe:

Of course on the way back there were some wet spots and the bike got dirty or should I say even dirtier. There are some little things like the missing center stand to fix up still but it's finally drivable. Also I mean to hook up the lambda sensor to my mixture analyzer to check the jetting.

Oh and by the way, the new exhaust setup improved the sounds quite a bit, it sounds wicked :biggrin: I wish I had a video cam with a mic to make a sound clip for you guys.

#54

looks very hyyva! :biggrin:

and an Impreza to ralley through the forest eh?

#55
Dutchy

looks very hyyva! :biggrin:

and an Impreza to ralley through the forest eh?

Thanks! I appreciate it :blush:

Well you have to have something fun for the winter too, don't you? :laughing6-hehe:

Edited June 17, 2011 by FinnRC36
#56

So now that I have some kilometers under my belt this summer I thought I'd update a bit. All the mods work great apart from the licence plate hanger which I've had to reinforce a couple of times due to fatique cracks but I think that's sorted now too.

I've also done some performance testing and on the first try I achieved a 0-100km/h time of 3,96s which is 0,3s faster than last summer and it's backed up with a 3,98s and a 3,99s runs. It also picked up 3km/h of more top speed compared to last summer, tested in similar conditions and in the same place.

The jetting seems to be spot on all the way across the rev range according to my LED A/F gauge with factory 132 mains and needles set to 3rd groove, stock slow speed jets and pilot screws 2,5 turns out. The only thing I am wondering is that should the mixture be leaner while cruising at part throttle compared to WOT as with cars to improve mileage? My A/F ratio is the same as WOT while cruising. My mileage hasn't gone worse from last year so I presume it's ok as is.

So all in all I gained a little power and a 25kg (not weighed, calculated) lighter bike and have had a lot of fun building it :cool:

That being said the bike is far from finished as it needs a paint jod and a lighter front wheel (anyone have a spare 5 spoke R1/R6 wheel?) and anything my mind happens to come up with :goofy:

Edited August 26, 2011 by FinnRC36
#57

Good work sir!!!!! Love the finished product.

Can you post a YouTube video so we can hear the exhaust???

#58
Veefer800Canuck

Good work sir!!!!! Love the finished product.

Can you post a YouTube video so we can hear the exhaust???

Thanks. But like you must know these are never really finished are they :biggrin:

That would be difficuIt as I don't have a camera that has a mic. I'll see what I can do though.

EDIT: My cell phone does have one so I give it a try although quality may be poor.

2nd EDIT, sound clip, used max. 5500rpm since the engine wasn't up to normal temp yet:

Turned out very good :cool:

Edited August 26, 2011 by FinnRC36
#59

Very nice, great job on the conversion!

#60

I've now got a 5-spoke R6 wheel and appropriate 03-04 R6 rotors to mount this winter along with a Pilot Power front tyre. The front wheel weight is 4296g including bearings but without rotors and rotor bolts. The rotors weigh 1450g and 1457g, don't know why there's a difference but I don't mind.

Also I been contenplating a 520 conversion to reduce the rotating masses further. Also a Compu-Fire series regulator is on the way. Also thinking about leaving the center stand out as it weighs 3,27kg and not having it installed this summer hasn't been that great a loss.

So stay tuned, the winter is closing in although I did go for a ride last sunday. Currently it's raining and the temp is at about 10ºC so no seat time this week.

P.S. The best 0-100 km/h time is now 3,90s.

Edited November 9, 2011 by FinnRC36
#61

here a tip to shave another fraction of your 0-100 time.................

:tour:

FinnRC36

the "alasti" biker :laughing6-hehe:

[image: vincent.jpg]

#62
Dutchy

here a tip to shave another fraction of your 0-100 time.................

:tour:

FinnRC36

the "alasti" biker :laughing6-hehe:

[image: vincent.jpg]

Nah, it's too cold here to do that :tongue:

Seriously, someone who could do a proper start on that bike could shave a lot out of that time. I'm only using those times to compare how my mods have paid off. I think it's pretty well for a bike that's seen 106000kms (that's about 66k miles).

Edited October 7, 2011 by FinnRC36
#63

Little something I've been working with:

The R6 front wheel with Pilot Power tyre

[image: R6 front wheel]

The CompuFire 55402 regulator installed.

[image: CompuFire 55402 regulator]

Edited February 6, 2012 by FinnRC36
#64

I did a similar conversion but with a cbr subframe, used a tail light with intergraded turn signals and some sheet metal for a license plate bracket

[image: post-22058-0-98047300-1328673569.jpg]

#65

With rotors on:

[image: 19022012221]

#67

Something I decided to see how it'd look:

[image: seat cover]

and fitting it:

[image: 15042012243]

Of course I'd have to chop the stock seat seriously to fit the cover but I like the look :rolleyes: Don't really like the idea of cutting my only seat so if anyone has a cheap spare I'd be interested.

Edited April 16, 2012 by FinnRC36
#68

So now it's installed:

[image: 22072012262]

Now with a lighter front wheel it's much easier to change line mid corner and the Pilot Power front feels very good too. It was a little tight fit but everything fit with little modifications like shortening the spacers and collars to fill the gap between the R6 bearings and VTR axle. Here's a pic of the collars my dad turned for me in a lathe:

[image: holkki]

Edited August 1, 2012 by FinnRC36
#70
cbkenison

Congrats, looks great!

Thanks. I like the look too. The old wheel is about 5,9kg without bearings according to member VF1000RS's measurements and the new one is about 4,3kg with bearings so the weight saving is more than 1,6kg here. Did a few new 0-100km/h runs this morning and the best was 3,56s carrying the front wheel nearly all the way through the first gear. Wasn't expecting that much improvement but I like it :tongue: Only other change since last summers best run of 3,90s was the Compufire regulator which in theory could help a little but I doubt it would show.

#71

The seat change is going forward. I'll let the pics do the talking:

[image: 24012013361]

The paint is just rattle can paint so in reality it's nowhere near as good looking as in the pic. But it'll do till I have time to do the the bodywork properly. A couple more pics are in my gallery. Edited January 24, 2013 by FinnRC36
#72

Some covers in the works.

[image: 15032013385]

#73

Here's pic of my 520 conversion with a very dirty rear wheel :goofy: Sprocket is JTR245/3.45 machined for the VFR bolt pattern and lightened BLS style but without lightening holes by my dad.‏ I did ask for him to do the holes too but he did not have the time and thought they weren't that important. The sprocket weighs only 80g more than the aluminium 530 sprocket I previously had on it. The chain is considerably lighter and so is the front sprocket too. No performance figures for this mod yet. Also the seat has been changed to a lighter CBR900RR seat since last runs were made but I'll post the figures once I get around to test that. Right now I'm having too much fun learning to drag my knee and becoming better in it and cornering on the whole.

[image: 03072013441]

#74

Nice. Good to hear you are working on the skills :fing02:

#75
The Phantom

Nice. Good to hear you are working on the skills :fing02:

I do think it is important :cool: I may have driven bikes since I was young but I do find myself making stupid mistakes from time to time while driving and one can never really be too good a driver to stay safe out there.

#76

Just an update from this summer. The Compu-fire regulator died on me and fried my Moty-design battery as it was letting 70V AC to the battery which turned the battery into a smoking molten blob and also fried my CDI box. Can't really blame the battery for that so now I'm back to running a GSX-R regulator (not the same part as I had sold the old one but one like it) and a Shorai LFX09A2-BS12 battery this time as the Shorai was better available locally. It is even lighter than the old Moty but less in capasity but works fine on the VFR750 and cranks plenty strong.

Edited August 20, 2014 by FinnRC36
End of thread · 76 posts recovered Wayback Machine snapshot 10 Jul 2017