2000 rectifier - need advice

Bought my 00 8 years ago with 1,100 mi and have had no apparent electrical problems. Now have 19K mi - still the same battery (!), starts right up, runs like a charm, etc. Given all the talk I see about rectifier problems, did I just luck out or is it due to fail at any moment? Visually the r/r looks fine. Should I replace with a updated or aftermarket unit? If so, what unit do you guys recommend? Thanks.

[image: View Post]vfrvCO, on 11 October 2010 - 12:27 PM, said:

Bought my 00 8 years ago with 1,100 mi and have had no apparent electrical problems. Now have 19K mi - still the same battery (!), starts right up, runs like a charm, etc. Given all the talk I see about rectifier problems, did I just luck out or is it due to fail at any moment? Visually the r/r looks fine. Should I replace with a updated or aftermarket unit? If so, what unit do you guys recommend? Thanks.


If it ain't broke then what is there to fix. You have low mileage on your 2k VFR. I have a 2k VFR with a little over 40k (would be more but I ride multiple bikes) that I ride year round in NYC. I have only replaced the battery and RR once. Looks like you may have another 3k - 5k miles before anytthing like that happens, but I would keep a spare RR with me under the seat of the bike.

I think the '00 and '01 R/R's are a little better and last longer than the '98 and '99's. The battery lasting that long is pretty impressive though.

[image: View Post]emon07, on 11 October 2010 - 12:35 PM, said:

[image: View Post]vfrvCO, on 11 October 2010 - 12:27 PM, said:

Bought my 00 8 years ago with 1,100 mi and have had no apparent electrical problems. Now have 19K mi - still the same battery (!), starts right up, runs like a charm, etc. Given all the talk I see about rectifier problems, did I just luck out or is it due to fail at any moment? Visually the r/r looks fine. Should I replace with a updated or aftermarket unit? If so, what unit do you guys recommend? Thanks.


If it ain't broke then what is there to fix. You have low mileage on your 2k VFR. I have a 2k VFR with a little over 40k (would be more but I ride multiple bikes) that I ride year round in NYC. I have only replaced the battery and RR once. Looks like you may have another 3k - 5k miles before anytthing like that happens, but I would keep a spare RR with me under the seat of the bike.



My Y2K with 40k on the odo just had the battery go Tango Uniform. The PO but in a Bikemaster battery right before I bought it in 2007
. The bike had 12,800 when I bought it. I bought a Yausa which fixed it. But I picked up a VFRness to help prevent future issues.

All of you that have x amount of miles with no problem...I wish you all the luck but i bet you everytime you ride your just tick away at WHEN you will have the r/r gremlin...........my suggestion if you want to prevent this is to go ahead and install the vfrness, a RIcks r/r and HARD WIRE IT ALL TOGETHER and possibly upgrade the size of the wire going right up to the stator......Hey Im just saying.......I have noticed those that ride prolonged distances are more prone....But whatever.......I have 46k on my 5th and 4 r/rs, 2 burnt connectors, 2 just burnt into stator wires...all with the vfrness.........Just saying, goodluck....................oh and 2 batteries....

[image: View Post]vfrvCO, on 11 October 2010 - 12:27 PM, said:

Bought my 00 8 years ago with 1,100 mi and have had no apparent electrical problems. Now have 19K mi - still the same battery (!), starts right up, runs like a charm, etc. Given all the talk I see about rectifier problems, did I just luck out or is it due to fail at any moment? Visually the r/r looks fine. Should I replace with a updated or aftermarket unit? If so, what unit do you guys recommend? Thanks.


I would at least inspect the connectors of the stator and run the voltage test at idle and 5000 rpm just to get a data point of where you are at. You might be just fine for now or it might be going tick tick.

Depending on how mechanical you are, you can find a lot of great information on this site to do a bunch of preemptive maintenance work on the electrical system. Or, if you're more like me, the, I'll-fix-it-when-it-breaks-type, you might want to consider getting an OEM or OEM replacement RR that you can keep under the seat (Check ebay). That way if and when the stock unit fails, 15 minutes later (10 minutes wondering why the bike died and 5 minutes swapping RRs) you'll be back on the road. It's inexpensive peace of mind.

The better, more robust RRs like those found on Yamaha R1s require anything from a little to a lot of tweaking to install depending on the model and the size of the cooling fins. Personally, out on the road, I'd rather be able to pull the plug, unbolt the original, bolt in the replacement unit and plug it back in. No muss. no fuss.

YMMV.

Bill

[image: View Post]mello dude, on 11 October 2010 - 06:40 PM, said:

[image: View Post]vfrvCO, on 11 October 2010 - 12:27 PM, said:

Bought my 00 8 years ago with 1,100 mi and have had no apparent electrical problems. Now have 19K mi - still the same battery (!), starts right up, runs like a charm, etc. Given all the talk I see about rectifier problems, did I just luck out or is it due to fail at any moment? Visually the r/r looks fine. Should I replace with a updated or aftermarket unit? If so, what unit do you guys recommend? Thanks.


I would at least inspect the connectors of the stator and run the voltage test at idle and 5000 rpm just to get a data point of where you are at. You might be just fine for now or it might be going tick tick.


+1

Keep an eye on things. Any voltage issues or toasty connectors means trouble is coming. I think it's inevitable with these bikes so you might wanna order up the parts (stator, regulator, gasket) now so you don't have to wait when it does go.

When the R/R on my '98 went it didn't give any obvious warning signs. Luckily it died in my neighbor's driveway not out on the road somewhere. It melted the connectors on the stator, the harness, and cooked the battery. I replaced the R/R, battery, and the connectors. I also replaced the wimpy wire that runs to the battery from the R/R with #10 marine wire, and cleaned/soldered al the major battery/charging system connections. I left the stator since it tested good, but I know it's only a matter of time until it goes. Now I check the voltages, and inspect the connections as part of weekly maintenance. No trouble so far.



Bought my parts from Wire My Bike to help support the community.

My $.02: '00-'01 have a slightly different setup and RR that is a bit more reliable. for my '01 I spent the money and got the latest OEM RR and put my working spare under the seat. I added a Datel Volt meter to keep an eye on things and it holds a rock steady off idle voltage of 14.1V This is what I'd recommend. The very least I would do is seperate the spade connector at the RR and with a small screwdriver, crush the female portion of the spade so the plug goes together super tight as this is the weak link. I'd say if money is limited I'd spend it on a new battery before anything else. Good luck!

[image: View Post]Squamishvfr, on 12 October 2010 - 10:45 PM, said:

My $.02: '00-'01 have a slightly different setup and RR that is a bit more reliable. for my '01 I spent the money and got the latest OEM RR and put my working spare under the seat. I added a Datel Volt meter to keep an eye on things and it holds a rock steady off idle voltage of 14.1V This is what I'd recommend. The very least I would do is seperate the spade connector at the RR and with a small screwdriver, crush the female portion of the spade so the plug goes together super tight as this is the weak link. I'd say if money is limited I'd spend it on a new battery before anything else. Good luck!


http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/public/style_emoticons/default/+1.gif An 8 year old battery is bound to have some sulfation going on and is sooner or later going to put an increasing demand on the charging system to shore up its weakened state. Plus, it will eventually fail in the most inconvenient / dangerous place leaving you stranded. At 8 years, 'ya got your money's worth out of it. A new one would be good preventative maintenance.