Replacing Right Crankcase Cover

I have 1998 model.

Has anyone replaced their right crank case cover?   Due to a slight (albeit expensive) mishap, I must replace the right crank case cover.   Figured this would be pretty simple but I was mistaken.  The manual states that I must remove the airbox and disconnect a red pulse ps2 connector prior to removing the cover.  What is it and is this really necessary?  I'm guessing that it's electrical.  If so, couldn't I just disconnect the battery?  I really don't want to pull that air box.  I have enough repair work as it is (see below) and don't want to remove the fuel tank.  Any input/advice would be greatly appreciated.

Parts to be replaced:
Upper cowl - this looks difficult - plus right turn signal assy.  Figured I'd replace both headlamp bulbs since they're 13 years old and I don't want to pull it apart again.
Right lower cowl - easy
Rear cowl - easy
New mirrors - easy and I'm getting 2000 model year mirrors to replace the ugly condom mirrors.  
Brake lever - easy, getting those knock off Pazzo's for both clutch and brake.
Brake pedal - looks easy, never did it.
There's more on the parts list but I can't recall what they are.  

Oh, and I was going to buy the parts from ron ayers.  They seem to have really good prices.  Is Dave Lusk still around from mosites?

In case anyone is wondering, I was making a turn into my alley @ maybe 5mph, front tire hit some gravel/leaves and down I went.  Never had an accident on a bike before.  I got a $3,000 check from the insurance company, it was $200 away from a total loss.  The adjuster said that due to the good condition of the bike, the ACV was $4,250 with tax. I will have all new body work except for the left lower cowl.  I replaced the front fender after somebody in an Avalanche bumped into it.

 bill220, on 01 November 2010 - 04:40 PM, said:

I have 1998 model.

Has anyone replaced their right crank case cover?   Due to a slight (albeit expensive) mishap, I must replace the right crank case cover.   Figured this would be pretty simple but I was mistaken.  The manual states that I must remove the airbox and disconnect a red pulse ps2 connector prior to removing the cover.  What is it and is this really necessary?  I'm guessing that it's electrical.  If so, couldn't I just disconnect the battery?  I really don't want to pull that air box.  I have enough repair work as it is (see below) and don't want to remove the fuel tank.  Any input/advice would be greatly appreciated.

Parts to be replaced:
Upper cowl - this looks difficult - plus right turn signal assy.  Figured I'd replace both headlamp bulbs since they're 13 years old and I don't want to pull it apart again.
Right lower cowl - easy
Rear cowl - easy
New mirrors - easy and I'm getting 2000 model year mirrors to replace the ugly condom mirrors.  
Brake lever - easy, getting those knock off Pazzo's for both clutch and brake.
Brake pedal - looks easy, never did it.
There's more on the parts list but I can't recall what they are.  

Oh, and I was going to buy the parts from ron ayers.  They seem to have really good prices.  Is Dave Lusk still around from mosites?

In case anyone is wondering, I was making a turn into my alley @ maybe 5mph, front tire hit some gravel/leaves and down I went.  Never had an accident on a bike before.  I got a $3,000 check from the insurance company, it was $200 away from a total loss.  The adjuster said that due to the good condition of the bike, the ACV was $4,250 with tax. I will have all new body work except for the left lower cowl.  I replaced the front fender after somebody in an Avalanche bumped into it.

You can do the R engine cover without disconnecting the wire. It's kinda fiddley, but not that bad. Having an extra pair of hands available will help, but I did it by myself without any problems. No battery disconnection required: that wire is for the ignition pickup so no juice when it's off. :fing02:

I've taken mine off and replaced it (afer JB Welding it). No trouble at all. There's one electrical plug to disconnect, which can be done without dismantling or removing too many things.

 MBrane, on 01 November 2010 - 05:57 PM, said:

 bill220, on 01 November 2010 - 04:40 PM, said:

I have 1998 model.

Has anyone replaced their right crank case cover?   Due to a slight (albeit expensive) mishap, I must replace the right crank case cover.   Figured this would be pretty simple but I was mistaken.  The manual states that I must remove the airbox and disconnect a red pulse ps2 connector prior to removing the cover.  What is it and is this really necessary?  I'm guessing that it's electrical.  If so, couldn't I just disconnect the battery?  I really don't want to pull that air box.  I have enough repair work as it is (see below) and don't want to remove the fuel tank.  Any input/advice would be greatly appreciated.

Parts to be replaced:
Upper cowl - this looks difficult - plus right turn signal assy.  Figured I'd replace both headlamp bulbs since they're 13 years old and I don't want to pull it apart again.
Right lower cowl - easy
Rear cowl - easy
New mirrors - easy and I'm getting 2000 model year mirrors to replace the ugly condom mirrors.  
Brake lever - easy, getting those knock off Pazzo's for both clutch and brake.
Brake pedal - looks easy, never did it.
There's more on the parts list but I can't recall what they are.  

Oh, and I was going to buy the parts from ron ayers.  They seem to have really good prices.  Is Dave Lusk still around from mosites?

In case anyone is wondering, I was making a turn into my alley @ maybe 5mph, front tire hit some gravel/leaves and down I went.  Never had an accident on a bike before.  I got a $3,000 check from the insurance company, it was $200 away from a total loss.  The adjuster said that due to the good condition of the bike, the ACV was $4,250 with tax. I will have all new body work except for the left lower cowl.  I replaced the front fender after somebody in an Avalanche bumped into it.

You can do the R engine cover without disconnecting the wire. It's kinda fiddley, but not that bad. Having an extra pair of hands available will help, but I did it by myself without any problems. No battery disconnection required: that wire is for the ignition pickup so no juice when it's off. :fing02:

Thank you!  One less thing to do.

 enzed_viffer, on 02 November 2010 - 01:10 AM, said:

I've taken mine off and replaced it (afer JB Welding it). No trouble at all. There's one electrical plug to disconnect, which can be done without dismantling or removing too many things.

The manual only mentioned the one wire.  Are there others?

There's one wire for the Pulse Generator. Since you have to remove the PG from the old cover, and install it in the new one anyway you can do that without disconnecting it from the harness which is a PITA. There's just a couple screws that hold it onto the cover.

Here's a pic of my GF's bike with the PG hanging out in the breeze after being removed from the old cover:

Attached Images

• [image: PG hangin.JPG]

 MBrane, on 02 November 2010 - 09:43 PM, said:

There's one wire for the Pulse Generator. Since you have to remove the PG from the old cover, and install it in the new one anyway you can do that without disconnecting it from the harness which is a PITA. There's just a couple screws that hold it onto the cover.

Here's a pic of my GF's bike with the PG hanging out in the breeze after being removed from the old cover:

Thanks so much.  I ordered all of the parts today from Ron Ayers.  Now I'm off to order those knock off Pazzos on Ebay

Hi - I know this is an old thread, but any recommendations on the use of sealant when replacing this cover ? The  manual I have here says to use a 5 - 15mm bead of sealant at the crankcase half joins. What brand do people recommend and how much did you use ?

Cheers

Refer to the manual for amount - just don't make the bead wider than the area you're covering. You don't want excess sealant inside the motor.

I usually use Permatex brand high-temp sealant.