Synthetc Oil Change ....Now the Transmission is Silky Smooth

I just completed an oil change at 4500 miles, using Amsoil 10W-30.  There is a noticeable difference in the transmission now.  It's like night and day.  Before the oil change, in "D" mode, the transmission was jerky and bucked a lot in the lower gears.  Now, the shifts are seamless and silky smooth, just like warm "butta".  It's even a joy to drive in "D" now.  Also, the engine seems quieter and the fan does not cycle on nearly as often.  I've always used Amsoil in all my previous bikes and achieved similar results, but they all had manual transmissions.  

Please don't misunderstand me. I am not promoting Amsoil or any other brand. I'm sure any other brand is just as good; and I'm definitely not trying to start another oil thread. (I just happened to get a good deal on 5 quarts). All I'm saying is that the synthetic oil transformed my DCT into a beast.  Just wanted to share my experience. I hope I didn't offend anyone or any policy.

Thank you,

anbark22

I have had my 1200F on an Amsoil 20w50 summer/10w40 winter diet since her 600 mile oil change after immediate break in.
She is going back on 20w50 Amsoil when I change her oil next week. 4400 miles total so far.

[image: View Post]anbark22, on 01 April 2011 - 07:34 PM, said:

Please don't misunderstand me. I am not promoting Amsoil or any other brand. I'm sure any other brand is just as good; and I'm definitely not trying to start another oil thread. (I just happened to get a good deal on 5 quarts). All I'm saying is that the synthetic oil transformed my DCT into a beast.  Just wanted to share my experience. I hope I didn't offend anyone or any policy.

No one's bitten yet?  I love a good oil thread, though most consider it Posted Image
I know, I know, we might as well start threads on which religion is best (for VFR owners ... Posted Image ), which political party has the right answers  ...
I am interested in hearing people's experience with different oils, because I too have noticed differences--mainly in shifting, as you did. Note: I've never sent samples to labs for analysis so this is entirely tactile and auditory (shifting).  The lab analyses seem to mainly settle (or spark ...) arguments about which oils last longest before breakdown.  I change the oil every 2,000 (conventional) to 4,000 (synthetic) miles, so that doesn't much matter to me.
I've tried several different oils (same weight, 10W40) in my DR.  I settled on Mobil 1 synthetic "red cap" (smoothest shifting, good price when on sale), and then the buggers reformulated it and no one can agree which "new" formulation is closest to the old red cap.  I've gone back to Castrol Grand Prix four-stroke conventional motorcycle oil (I think it's called 4T in the US) in the DR, which is cheaper than the Mobil 1, and shifting is very good--close to the synthetic in that bike.
Enter the 2006 VFR which had Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W40 (formerly called MX4T, but no formulation change) in it when I started riding it.  When I did my first oil change I had the Castrol on hand, so I used it.  Not the end of the world, the bike runs fine, the tranny didn't fuse into a lump of molten clutch plates and broken cogs, but shifting is notchier and I hear a lot more noise from the gearbox.  So I'll be switching back to synthetic next oil change--probably the Racing 4T, but I might give Amsoil a shot too.  The Castrol is half the price per litre of the synthetics, but then I run the synthetics twice as long.  And, as stated, the old MX4T (with 4,000+ miles on it) shifted smoother and quieter than the fresh Castrol in the VFR.

I found the same thing when I switched over to Mobil 1 on my 5th gen.... much smoother shifting....... :fing02:

Through the years, I've tried all sorts of synthetic and semi-synthetic oils on my 4th gen. From Honda's own synthetic blend, Spectro, Agip, Motul, Castrol and presently, Mobil1 full synthetic motorcycle oil for 4 cylinder bikes. The best shifting oil so far is the Mobil, with maybe Motul being the worst. I wish the Mobil motorcycle oil was available years ago when I had so many bad notchy shifts with the Motul.
I'm staying with Mobil1 synthetic motorcycle oil from now on.....

Beck
95 VFR

Fresh oil of any type really smooths out the shifts. I can't say I've noticed any difference by brand - AMSOIL, Canadian Tire Oil, Rotella, Honda - tried them all in synthetic or otherwise. The first few rides on a new oil change are really night and day from the old worn out oil.

Good post.

[image: View Post]fasterspider, on 01 April 2011 - 11:12 PM, said:

She is going back on 20w50 Amsoil when I change her oil next week. 4400 miles total so far.

Do you know the viscosity of your 50 weight at 104ºF and 212ºF???

[image: View Post]anbark22, on 01 April 2011 - 07:34 PM, said:

I just completed an oil change at 4500 miles, using Amsoil 10W-30.
If there is one thing an owner has control over is viscosity... 10W 30
is correct because Oils are chosen by the manufacturer to give the
right thickness at the normal operating temperature of 212ºF of the
engine... and if your manual suggest a 10W30 that would be the
viscosity of 10 at operating temps...

If we agree that most wear happens during start up before warm up then why
are we operating our bikes if we know that our oil is too thick to lubricate our
engine's critical parts??? cling doesn't lubricate your engine... pressure doesn't
lubricate your engine... flow lubricates your engine...
we can clearly see in the viscosity rating of the oils that only at operating
temps does your oil flow at its maximum... maximum flow means you can't get
any better protection than that...

Quote Amsoil viscosity of 10 30 synthetic oil...

At 40ºC / 104ºF viscosity = 59

At 100ºC / 212ºF viscosity = 10.2

10w30 and 10w40 are both acceptable in the VFR1200F according to the service manual.

I run nothing but Motul 300V double ester 10w40 full synthetic in both of my motorcycles. I don't mind spending 16 bucks a litre. Only the best for my Hondas.

When I had my crash back in Oct. I had just switched from Amsoil to Mobil 1.  Then the bike crashed and it's all over.  Moral to the story.....don't crash your bike with oil in it.   :ohmy:

[image: View Post]BusyLittleShop, on 02 April 2011 - 05:32 PM, said:

[image: View Post]anbark22, on 01 April 2011 - 07:34 PM, said:

I just completed an oil change at 4500 miles, using Amsoil 10W-30.
If there is one thing an owner has control over is viscosity... 10W 30
is correct because Oils are chosen by the manufacturer to give the
right thickness at the normal operating temperature of 212�F of the
engine... and if your manual suggest a 10W30 that would be the
viscosity of 10 at operating temps...

If we agree that most wear happens during start up before warm up then why
are we operating our bikes if we know that our oil is too thick to lubricate our
engine's critical parts??? cling doesn't lubricate your engine... pressure doesn't
lubricate your engine... flow lubricates your engine...
we can clearly see in the viscosity rating of the oils that only at operating
temps does your oil flow at its maximum... maximum flow means you can't get
any better protection than that...

Quote Amsoil viscosity of 10 30 synthetic oil...

At 40�C / 104�F viscosity = 59

At 100�C / 212�F viscosity = 10.2

So would a straight weight, say 30W, always stay at viscosity of 30? Then why wouldn't we run straight 10W in our bikes to get that max flow?

Seriously, they put dino juice in that bike from the factory?   :huh:    Would not have called that!

[image: View Post]vfrcapn, on 02 April 2011 - 07:42 PM, said:

So would a straight weight, say 30W, always stay at viscosity of 30? Then why wouldn't we run straight 10W in our bikes to get that max flow?

Straight weight 30 is too thick at start up and just right at 212�F... how thick is it??? just compare to a 0w 30...

Every oil company list viscosity of their oil at 2 temps 40�C / 104�F
(room temp) and 100�C / 212�F (operating temp) Quote Mobil 1 viscosity
of 0 30 synthetic oil...

At 40�C / 104�F viscosity = 56.7

At 100�C / 212�F viscosity = 10.3


Compare that to the viscosity of straight weight 30

At 40�C / 104�F viscosity = 97

At 100�C / 212�F viscosity = 11.7

If the thickness of oil was 10 when you got in your bike in the morning
and 10 while riding it would be perfect. You would not have to warm
up your engine. You could just get on your bike and rip the throttle...
There would be little wear and tear on you engine, almost none.
Unfortunately there is no oil on the planet that is 10 at 104�F and 212� F...  
the oil world is not perfect...

The night before when you ride home from work the bike was up the the
correct operating temperature and the oil was the correct thickness,
10. Over night the engine cooled to room temperature and the oil
thickened. It is 75 F in the morning. The oil thickness is now around
150. It is too thick to lubricate an engine designed to run with an oil
having a thickness of 10.

It is time to introduce the concept of lubrication. Most believe that
pressure = lubrication. This is false. Flow = lubrication. If pressure
was the thing that somehow lubricated your engine then we would all be
using 90 weight oil. Lubrication is used to separate moving parts, to
keep them from touching. There is a one to one relationship between
flow and separation. If you double the flow you will double the
separation pressure in a bearing. The pressure at the bearing entrance
is irrelevant.

In fact the relationship between pressure and flow is in opposition.
If you change your oil to a thicker formula the pressure will go up.
It goes up because the resistance to flow is greater and in fact the
flow must go down in order for the pressure to go up. They are
inversely related. Conversely if you choose a thinner oil then the
pressure will go down. This can only occur if the flow has increased.

[image: View Post]vfrcapn, on 02 April 2011 - 07:42 PM, said:

[image: View Post]BusyLittleShop, on 02 April 2011 - 05:32 PM, said:

[image: View Post]anbark22, on 01 April 2011 - 07:34 PM, said:

I just completed an oil change at 4500 miles, using Amsoil 10W-30.
If there is one thing an owner has control over is viscosity... 10W 30
is correct because Oils are chosen by the manufacturer to give the
right thickness at the normal operating temperature of 212�F of the
engine... and if your manual suggest a 10W30 that would be the
viscosity of 10 at operating temps...

If we agree that most wear happens during start up before warm up then why
are we operating our bikes if we know that our oil is too thick to lubricate our
engine's critical parts??? cling doesn't lubricate your engine... pressure doesn't
lubricate your engine... flow lubricates your engine...
we can clearly see in the viscosity rating of the oils that only at operating
temps does your oil flow at its maximum... maximum flow means you can't get
any better protection than that...

Quote Amsoil viscosity of 10 30 synthetic oil...

At 40�C / 104�F viscosity = 59

At 100�C / 212�F viscosity = 10.2

So would a straight weight, say 30W, always stay at viscosity of 30? Then why wouldn't we run straight 10W in our bikes to get that max flow?


I ran straight 30 Castrol HD, for 400 miles in 50 to 60 degree weather in the vfr, it drained so thin on hot drain , it was drip free in 30 seconds, I mean total water. Scared the crap out of me

Thats what straight weights do, they will get thinner and thinner as they heat up ,  So yeah, a 10w30 will not thin out as much as a straight weight will becuase of the viscosity additives, a stright weigh will go to ten weight..

:beatdeadhorse:

Awesome... it looks as if Mobil 1 is a favorite.  I will be giving it a go next change just for grins

although I've been fine with the Rotella....

Just found Mobil racing 4t 10w-40 motorcycle synthetic on sale at Auto Zone for $8 a quart, $2 off per quart, Saturday.Went back and bought another 4 quarts for the next change. Not sure how long the sale is going.

[image: View Post]spud786, on 02 April 2011 - 08:58 PM, said:

I ran straight 30 Castrol HD, for 400 miles in 50 to 60 degree weather in the vfr, it drained so thin on hot drain , it was drip free in 30 seconds, I mean total water. Scared the crap out of me

Thats what straight weights do, they will get thinner and thinner as they heat up ,  So yeah, a 10w30 will not thin out as much as a straight weight will becuase of the viscosity additives, a stright weigh will go to ten weight..

All oils whether muti or straight thin out with heat... idealy you want a viscosity of 10 at 212�F... so if it drains like water that means you had flow and flow lubricates your engine... not thicker oil under higher pressure...