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removing rear axle

59 posts Started 4 Apr 2011 Last recovered post 16 Jun 2012 Wayback Machine snapshot 12 Sep 2017

#1

I am trying to remove the rear axle but I can't get it to budge. The sprocket carrier came off easy, next was the collar that only took a light tapping to loosen up. Third was the backplate of the cush drive, it came off using a puller but it took more effort than expected/hoped.

[image: 51734885.jpg]

Only thing remaining is the axle and and unfortunately the puller is not large enough to use it on the axle too. I gave the axle some smacks with a hammer but absolutely no movement whatsoever. I didn't find it in the service manual or on the parts fiche but just to make sure, there isn't some circlip keeping the axle from being removed from the bearing holder, is there?

[image: 78974954.png]

#2

The Axel/disk assembly should just slide out the right side as long as you have removed the caliper mounting bolts and rear caliper. Doesn't the axel turn? Or it is seized 100% in the bearings?

Edited April 4, 2011 by VFRwhisp
#3

The caliper is out of the way and the axle and bearings rotate fine. The bearings are still OK, there is no play in them and I want to keep it that way. I have used some heat to try and work it free but not much as don't want to ruin the bearing seals. I will replace the dust seals.

It seems the inner race of the roller bearing is frozen solid on the axle.

#4
V4 Rosso

The caliper is out of the way and the axle and bearings rotate fine. The bearings are still OK, there is no play in them and I want to keep it that way. I have used some heat to try and work it free but not much as don't want to ruin the bearing seals. I will replace the dust seals.

It seems the inner race of the roller bearing is frozen solid on the axle.

I guess the only thing I would know to try is some solvents and heat, but it should come straight out, the circlip is only to keep the caliper bracket on the eccentric

Good luck

Edited April 4, 2011 by mrmatt
#5

PM Doug, he has been there....

#6
mrmatt

but it should come straight out, the circlip is only to keep the caliper bracket on the eccentric

Thanks, that's how I read the drawing too. A write up in an english mag made me wonder if I overlooked something.

[image: spindle.jpg]

Dutchy

PM Doug, he has been there....

Doug is on some secret mission :biggrin: so i guess he can't be online much.

#7

Wow this is so weird. I removed the axle from my '02 when I changed the rear brake rotor and the thing basically didn't even need to be hit with a hammer...it just popped right out!

#8
kaldek

Wow this is so weird. I removed the axle from my '02 when I changed the rear brake rotor and the thing basically didn't even need to be hit with a hammer...it just popped right out!

I just had mine off last week, only the 2nd time for my '99, and it just slid off. When you do get it out clean up those splines. I applied a slight film of grease before re-assembly. But I'm sure you've already planned that...

I don't know how you'd remove the circlip before the axle, I think those instructions are incorrect.

I'd put the nut back on the end of the axle, backwards, grab a 3lb sledge hammer and give it some whacks.

#9

Yep, it just gets stuck there.

You have to get medieval on its ass.

[image: marcellus_wallace.jpg]

#10

Doesn't help you now, but to all in the future, apply a light coating of grease to the ENTIRE axle before installation.

Will make life easier later on.....

Good luck on your quest. Try a block of hardwood on the end of the axle and a BIG hammer.

#11
vfrcapn

I'd put the nut back on the end of the axle, backwards, grab a 3lb sledge hammer and give it some whacks.

I would do this as well - after applying penetrating oil (Pen Oil, PB Blaster, Kroil) and allowing that to sit for at least a few hours, if not overnight.

Once you get the axle out, dress it well with 600 grit sandpaper(to remove all the oxidation), use a scouring pad to clean the bearing ID's. Then grease before reassembly.

#12

Good advice all over.

My vote is for Kroil and patience, it works better when left alone for few days, Other penetrating oils will dry up while Kroil will keep working.

Hammer and block of wood would be my choice.

once you take it apart pack some high speed synthetic grease in the roller bearing,

#13

Thanks for all the input guys :fing02:

I've sprayed a lot of Griffon IMAL (similar to Kroil) on the axle over the last two days but it still wont budge. I "got medieval on it's ass" (LOL @Phantom, love that scene :biggrin: ) by giving it a few whacks with a 2lbs hammer (haven't got any bigger ones but my technique is quite OK :laugh: ) but it doesn't move a hair.

There is some goey stuff on the backplate, maybe that's what is keeping it from sliding out of the bearings. In that case slamming it with a hammer won't help much and I have to get me another puller or modify the one I have.

In the mean time I wrapped some tie downs around the SSSA and used a jack to put some pressure on the axle but it is still a no go. I didn't want to put too much tension on the straps afraid it would snap and have the latches hitting me in the face :491:

[video: https://www.youtube.com/embed/2Vc-sDyeyaI?feature=oembed]

Is that a high C? :happy:

#14

Yeah, axle slides out first on the right side, then circlip and caliper bracket (also right), then the eccentric can slide out the left side.

One thing that might help is to brace the swingarm against something, when you're 'tapping' the end of the axle with your hammer I bet you're getting a lot of movement in the rest of the bike, you need that force to go directly to the axle/bearing surface. If you can put a rod/2x4/beam from the right side of the swingarm to a wall or something then you can put a lot more force to the axle with the same 'tap' at the end.

And keep the penetrating oil on it, and maybe just work on it with many smaller taps to try to vibrate the axle free. Eventually it has to give...

Another thought, examine the surface of the axle that sticks out on the left carefully, if it has a build up of corrosion then it would keep the axle from going anywhere because you are then trying to shear off the corrosion which is pretty hard to do. Sand/polish the surface lightly to get any of this off and it might help

Edited April 5, 2011 by mrmatt
#15

I hope you have made some progress :mellow:

It seem to be really tight, hopfully nothing will be broken in the brogress :comp13:

#16
keny

I hope you have made some progress :mellow:

It seem to be really tight, hopfully nothing will be broken in the brogress :comp13:

I like that Keny! "Brogress" - measure of progress made with the assistance of your bro's on VFRD :goofy:

#17

What's the problem?

You want the the rear axle out?

POP, here you go....................................

:laughing6-hehe:

[image: d18ab183.jpg]

NAH......... that is unfair, it is Doug's no longer needed rear axle...... let me know if you need it.... :fing02:

#18
Dutchy

What's the problem?

You want the the rear axle out?

POP, here you go....................................

:laughing6-hehe:

Grrrrrr. :pissed:

:biggrin:

Good to kwow there is a spare nearby. Haven't had time to work on the bike this weekend :mellow:

#19
V4 Rosso

I am trying to remove the rear axle but I can't get it to budge. The sprocket carrier came off easy, next was the collar that only took a light tapping to loosen up. Third was the backplate of the cush drive, it came off using a puller but it took more effort than expected/hoped.

[image: 51734885.jpg]

Stop right there... you're going to bust the fragile casting...

yesterday I removed Bob's VFR axle that was frozen with corrosion just

like yours... we used a large sledge hammer with a block of aluminum

in between the axle and the hammer and drove the axle out... it helps

if you have someone against the side of the bike to keep it from

spinning with the hammer blows...

#20
BusyLittleShop

Stop right there... you're going to bust the fragile casting...

No, the driven sprocket hub came off well, it is only the axle that is still stuck to the bearing races.

#21
V4 Rosso
BusyLittleShop

Stop right there... you're going to bust the fragile casting...

No, the driven sprocket hub came off well, it is only the axle that is still stuck to the bearing races.

Good... have you applied some heat about 100ºF to the hub to expand the bearing and make some clearance between the stuck surface???

#22
BusyLittleShop

Good... have you applied some heat about 100ºF to the hub to expand the bearing and make some clearance between the stuck surface???

Yeah, and a lot more than 100F, closer to 100C trying to break the corrosion between the axle and races (if there is any). Still wouldn 't budge.

#23
V4 Rosso
BusyLittleShop

Good... have you applied some heat about 100ºF to the hub to expand the bearing and make some clearance between the stuck surface???

Yeah, and a lot more than 100F, closer to 100C trying to break the corrosion between the axle and races (if there is any). Still wouldn 't budge.

At this point, I'd resign myself mentally to the price of a replacement axle. Once prepared as such, I'd go get that block of aluminium and the biggest sledgehammer you can find and go nuts. I think if you don't accept the potential replacement price, you'll be constantly holding back when you swing that hammer. If all goes well, you'll swing it hard enough *and* save the axle.

Shock loading sounds like the only thing that's going to release this puppy!

#24

So how is it going, axle still stuck :huh:

#25

Yes, how are things going?

Plan is to get TheCook over at some point, so we need you to find them narrow windy roads :goofy:

and a free bike wash....

[image: HPIM2529.jpg]

#26

If it hasn't come out of it's own it is still stuck. I have been too busy with other stuff an not been able to work on the bike :dry:

#27

It's times like this I get angry with mechanical things. And it's times like this I look at the thing as my enemy, smiling and laughing at me.

This is when I'd put the axle in a big hydraulic press and enjoy the sound it makes as it pops out. Like tying my enemy up and shooting him in the kneecaps. After all, it's become personal.

P.S Please keep posting on this problem - I'm really super keen to find out what the problem was!

#28

Sorry for the late entry into tonights show, but I have was delayed by our sponsors...Anyway, just as the previous posters have suggested, apply some penetrating oil, let it sit for a little while, try to rotate the axle from the right side, as you whack it from the left. I used a 4 x 4 piece of wood placed against the axle, and gave it a good whack or three, and she popped out. Is there any side-to-side movement at all when the c-clip is removed, or is it really bound up? Installing the nut prior to using the wood is also good, as it give a bigger surface area for whacking...My bike is still waiting for the forks to be finished, the dang ducati Shop at the Nurburgring is taking their time, time I'm not happy giving!!!

#29

It's out! :cheerleader:

[image: 102052011274.jpg]

kaldek

After all, it's become personal.

Exactly laugh.gif

With some bits and pieces I had laying around I modified the puller. While holding the axle nut with a spanner I spun the axle using a steel bar wedged between the wheel studs (with the wheel nuts installed not to damage the thread) and with a lttle effort the axle slid out of the bearing holder. After the axle had moved 1/2" it gave up most of it's resitance and I cold spin the axle by hand.

[image: 102052011273.jpg]

DIY axle puller

As I expected it was old gummed up grease that prevented the axle from sliding out of the bearings. This would have never come out whacking it with a hammer.

[image: 102052011277.jpg]

Old grease sticks like glue

[image: 102052011278.jpg]

The bearing holder came out fine.

The bearings are still in great shape, no play in them whatsoever. They'll get some fresh grease and new dust seals will be installed.

Thanks everyone for your mental support and ideas :fing02:

#30

Congrats!

That's not just grease, there's rust in there too. Clean it with solvent and then wire wheel the rust off. Get it nice and shiny clean again, then add your new grease(and maybe some anit-seize!).

#31

:cheerleader: :cheerleader: :cheerleader:

Great news!

#32

Thanks for confirming the bearings are still in great shape, it means I will leave mine well alone.... :laughing6-hehe:

Zo, nu eerst een Bavaria.......... :beer:

#33

Success!!!... I like your pusher... lets see a pic of the axle bearing surface...

I offer my method to clean both the axle and bearing...

[image: gallery_3131_51_61974.jpg]

Once you have the bearing removed you employ a two jewelers screw

drivers and carefully lift each roller from the cage...

[image: gallery_3131_51_49199.jpg]

Give the rollers and cage a bath in gasoline... you be surprised at

all the dirty deposits hidden in the old grease and every nook and

cranny... you're looking at the deposits after only 10K miles of

normal operation...

[image: gallery_3131_51_47395.jpg]

Once the bearing are really clean lay them out and inspect each roller

for scoring...

[image: gallery_3131_51_41593.jpg]

Dirt mixed with the old grease will leave a trail of deposits on the

axle at point B...

[image: gallery_3131_51_14606.jpg]

Spun in a Lathe... it's easy to remove the deposits employing a gray

micro fine 3M pad... it's soft enough that it does *not* remove any

precious metal...

[image: gallery_3131_51_40032.jpg]

What you'll end up with is an axle with the deposits remove plus

giving the metal a nice luster...

[image: gallery_3131_51_39038.jpg]

#34
BusyLittleShop

Spun in a Lathe... it's easy to remove the deposits employing a gray

micro fine 3M pad... it's soft enough that it does *not* remove any

precious metal...

[image: gallery_3131_51_40032.jpg]

I wish I had the tools in my shed to clean the axle your way Larry. I did however once clean the caliper pistons using a small woodworking lathe :biggrin:

[image: brcil.jpg]

I had to resort to using a nylon brush and some solvent. Still, it cleaned up nice:

[image: 1p1050952.jpg]

[image: 1p1050949.jpg]

[image: 1p1050948.jpg]

SEBSPEED

That's not just grease, there's rust in there too. Clean it with solvent and then wire wheel the rust off. Get it nice and shiny clean again, then add your new grease(and maybe some anit-seize!).

Fortunately I didn't need to use a wire wheel/brush. The clay like substance came off fairly easy :fing02:

#35

sweet! let's schedule a ride.

saturday's weather looks perfect.

#36
superchode

sweet! let's schedule a ride.

saturday's weather looks perfect.

I allready have plans for saturday, sunday maybe ?

Dutchy

Zo, nu eerst een Bavaria.......... :beer:

Er gaat (bijna) niets boven een lentebock na het gedane werk. :beer:

#38

Man this is great news mate. I love a little backyard engineering!!

#39

Glad to hear that you got your problem sorted! I'm still waiting to get my VFR back. Hopefully this week, but I'm not gonna hold my breath...

#40

I allready have plans for saturday, sunday maybe ?

With Sunday being Mothersday.................... :laughing6-hehe:

#41
Dutchy

I allready have plans for saturday, sunday maybe ?

With Sunday being Mothersday.................... :laughing6-hehe:

that doesn't concern me... but there is a forecast for some rain on sunday. maybe that'll change.

#42

Well....looks like I'm going to need that bearing puller from work tonight..

The other one came apart easy. Must be something with these 4th gen rear axles.

#43
V4 Rosso

It's out! :cheerleader:

With some bits and pieces I had laying around I modified the puller. While holding the axle nut with a spanner I spun the axle using a steel bar wedged between the wheel studs (with the wheel nuts installed not to damage the thread) and with a lttle effort the axle slid out of the bearing holder. After the axle had moved 1/2" it gave up most of it's resitance and I cold spin the axle by hand.

[image: 102052011273.jpg]

DIY axle puller

Good grief that is the most Rube Goldberg contraption I think I have ever seen!

I like it! :laugh:

#44

and that is why I'm leaving my rear axle WELL alone........ :tongue:

#45

I take it apart and grease it every two years, regardless of mileage.

#46

Just crushed in some thick aluminum tubing trying to pull the spocket carrier off. Liquid wrench not penetrating. Torching not helping. Going to take it to work and use the press to try and get it off that way.

#47

Today I learned success sometimes takes 22 tons of pressure...

#48
:worthlesswithoutpics:
#49
Dutchy

:worthlesswithoutpics:

+1

#50

C'mon. Why don't we just take it on faith? I'm a trustworthy guy, right?

[image: IMG_2195.jpg]

Nice and rusty. Oddly enough the spindle nearly fell out when I loosened the pinch bolt.

#51

what did you guys use to get the circlip off?

#52
YoshiHNS

Today I learned success sometimes takes 22 tons of pressure...

Twenty-two.....tons. :huh:

#53
kaldek
YoshiHNS

Today I learned success sometimes takes 22 tons of pressure...

Twenty-two.....tons. :huh:

That's what the pressure gauge showed on the H-press before it went -POP-

#54
Dutchy

Thanks for confirming the bearings are still in great shape, it means I will leave mine well alone.... :laughing6-hehe:

Zo, nu eerst een Bavaria.......... :beer:

Yeah as long as mine spins freely, I 'll consider a life time PART. Why to all these guys with frozen parts also have rusty chains?

#55
spud786
Dutchy

Thanks for confirming the bearings are still in great shape, it means I will leave mine well alone.... :laughing6-hehe:

Zo, nu eerst een Bavaria.......... :beer:

Yeah as long as mine spins freely, I 'll consider a life time PART. Why to all these guys with frozen parts also have rusty chains?

Yeah. Most people won't bother with this unless they have a reason to. Not sure what you're on about with the rusty chain though.

No help on a tool or method suggestion for the clip to remove the eccentric? I might just spend the money on a large retaining ring plier. Didn't have much luck with anything else in my toolbox. Not exactly easy to do with a loose swingarm either.

#56

That thing comes off easy. I used my small Harbor Freight snap ring pliers to take mine off if that's any indication.

#57

Yeah. Don't have any snap ring pliers at home, and I forgot to look at work before I left today. Was almost thinking of just griding down the needle nose pliers to work if it comes to it. Tried to get it with just two small pry bars, but no go. Another tool to add to the box I guess.

#58
YoshiHNS

Another tool to add to the box I guess.

The snap ring pliers I have are too small and I used some needle nose pliers, but next time I am getting some larger snap ring pliers, saves a lot of time and hassle.

#59

Needlenose would work for sure, done that too.

End of thread · 59 posts recovered Wayback Machine snapshot 12 Sep 2017