Doesn't look that bad. Keep going you need to get the exhaust off so you can clamp onto the remainder of the stud. When you try to remove it you need to heat the aluminum first; lots of heat quickly. The aluminum will expand the steel will not and with moderate pressure it will turn. Don't break off what's left or it will get worse. You are not too far up the creek yet.
Just in case you don't have heat, you can always soak it down with some PB Blaster or something similar and let it set for a few... keep soaking it down. Also, now might be a good time to go to Sears or something similar and get a set of Stud Extractors. Worth their weight in gold as I have practically worn mine out.
[image: View Post]Infidel, on 02 June 2011 - 02:23 PM, said:
Just in case you don't have heat, you can always soak it down with some PB Blaster or something similar and let it set for a few... keep soaking it down. Also, now might be a good time to go to Sears or something similar and get a set of Stud Extractors. Worth their weight in gold as I have practically worn mine out.
Posted Image
The past two posts are great advice. Keep going. Get the exhaust off, then try. Lefty loosey may not be correct for exhaust studs...can't remember for certain. Look it up (manual is on this site for download). You will be OK. Not a disaster. Stud extractor, ez-out, something along those lines.
CHeers!
If using an extractor, be careful In '94? I had snapped one of the rear exhaust studs on my V45 Sabre and as I was turning the extractor the collar snapped off.... $300.00 for a rear head.....So remember ignorance + Force = Results, just not the kind you want :laughing6-hehe:
Good luck, take your time & you will be able to get them out.
Well I would just drill it out with the proper size bit. But don't take my word for it, I'm not much of a mechanic... Although that's exactly what I've done before.
Good luck! !
C
OK because you said your an amature I will chime in again. You don't need to drill anything or need extractors yet. You need to finish taking off the remainder of the exhaust. You didn't snap the bolt off flush. When you get the exhaust off there will be the bolt there sticking up missing it's head. Plenty there sticking up to grab with a good set of vice grips.
FIRST thing is first. STOP right there, go buy yourself a can of PB blaster and soak that thing, wait 10-12 hours, soak it again, wait another half a day or so. After that, pop that flange off and that thing will turn right out. After you slip that flange down, if you have a dremel or a drill and a stone bit you can flatten two sides of the remainder of the bolt to give your vice-grip jaws something to bite on.
Next time something feels that tight when you're trying to loosen it, hit it with some penetrating oil and work it back and forth, tighten a hair then back it off again to let that penetrating oil get up in there, that way you won't deal with this again.
[image: View Post]Jmmymc750, on 02 June 2011 - 02:38 PM, said:
. Lefty loosey may not be correct for exhaust studs...can't remember for certain.
As I recall, it IS lefty-loosey.
I was removing the exhaust from my 800 and a couple of the studs backed right out of the head with the nuts.
I was turning in the conventional direction to remove, AKA: Lefty-loosey.
I did not do anything upon reinstallation, except to leave the studs locked in the offending nuts, and put anti-seize on all 8 male threads that DID come undone.
So next time I remove them, the studs will also back out of the head, which I don't really care about, they're coming off one way or the other.
Do NOT try and drill it out, unless you plan on taking the head off, and setting it in a proper vice on a drill press. The odds of screwing this up by attempting w/ a hand drill are incredibly high.
[image: View Post]NakedViffer, on 03 June 2011 - 01:55 AM, said:
FIRST thing is first. STOP right there, go buy yourself a can of PB blaster and soak that thing, wait 10-12 hours, soak it again, wait another half a day or so. After that, pop that flange off and that thing will turn right out. After you slip that flange down, if you have a dremel or a drill and a stone bit you can flatten two sides of the remainder of the bolt to give your vice-grip jaws something to bite on.
Next time something feels that tight when you're trying to loosen it, hit it with some penetrating oil and work it back and forth, tighten a hair then back it off again to let that penetrating oil get up in there, that way you won't deal with this again.
+1 on what he said. PB Blaster is great stuff!
[image: View Post]JZH, on 03 June 2011 - 06:07 AM, said:
EZ-outs, however, are evil. Use at your own risk!
Ciao,
I think the devil himself invented them!
[image: View Post]Burns, on 03 June 2011 - 08:26 AM, said:
Do NOT try and drill it out, unless you plan on taking the head off, and setting it in a proper vice on a drill press. The odds of screwing this up by attempting w/ a hand drill are incredibly high.
[image: View Post]PolarBear, on 03 June 2011 - 09:07 AM, said:
Well, since real mechanics are saying do not drill it out, I guess you shouldn't. Sorry, was trying to help... :sad:
not implying it can't be done, but getting the angles right, and getting the bit centered, etc stacks the odds against you, at least IMHO.... if it was something like a bolt stuck in a frame or something like that, I probably wouldn't hesitate, but the head... too much can go wrong and expensive in a hurry.
[image: View Post]Squamishvfr, on 03 June 2011 - 01:33 AM, said:
OK because you said your an amature I will chime in again. You don't need to drill anything or need extractors yet. You need to finish taking off the remainder of the exhaust. You didn't snap the bolt off flush. When you get the exhaust off there will be the bolt there sticking up missing it's head. Plenty there sticking up to grab with a good set of vice grips.
The stud extractors will do a much better job than them vice scripts. I have seen people round off more than one broken bolt using a set of worn jawed vice scripts. 30ish bucks tops for a good set that will earn their money back right out of the gate.
+1 on most of what has been said. I have been here with my 3rd gen.
1. Work on getting the rest of the exhaust off. You have plenty of stud to work with.
2. PB Blast it and be patient.
3 If you don't have the ability to weld on a nut, make sure you have a sharp pair of Vise Grips and clamp on to the stud. Take your time and remove the stud slowly.
4. When the stud is out take a moment to run an appropriate sized tap through the hole only to clean out the crud.
5. Take your time when reinstalling the headers if you over tighten the cap nuts you can snap the studs... again...
[image: View Post]Burns, on 03 June 2011 - 10:31 AM, said:
[image: View Post]PolarBear, on 03 June 2011 - 09:07 AM, said:
Well, since real mechanics are saying do not drill it out, I guess you shouldn't. Sorry, was trying to help... :sad:
not implying it can't be done, but getting the angles right, and getting the bit centered, etc stacks the odds against you, at least IMHO.... if it was something like a bolt stuck in a frame or something like that, I probably wouldn't hesitate, but the head... too much can go wrong and expensive in a hurry.
I agree! It will work well only if you have clear access to bolts, which I had when I drilled mine out.
well have been soaking in wd40 since yesterday.
what exactly is PB Blast is it a brand of lube spray type thing?
also having taken the other two studs outs (they came out no prob but the nut still rusted to the top.
my next question is
how best to access the rear headers??fuel tank off?rear footrest and chain-guard?
also i would love to rant now about the silly black clips on the fairing! :wacko: :bliss: :bliss:
i admit a great idea if you know what the hell thay are!i was most confussed looking at these mysterious black disks!!!
thank god for youtube i found them on there
[image: View Post]JZH, on 04 June 2011 - 12:50 PM, said:
[image: View Post]wera803, on 03 June 2011 - 10:54 AM, said:
[image: View Post]JZH, on 03 June 2011 - 06:07 AM, said:
I don't think there are ANY left-hand threads on any VFR. I certainly can't think of any (though I have never fully stripped any VFR engines)...
The only one I know of is on the center stand.
Which VFR and where, exactly, is it? This I have to see... :blush:
Ciao,
At least 6th gen. I think 5th gen too. I know it has been brought up here before and I had to drill one out for House when he snapped his off. It's been a while though so I can't remember exactly where it was. Maybe into a bracket for the center stand that mounts to the frame or engine case?? I remember he was getting the swingarm and a bracket powdercoated, so it had to be in one of those pieces.
[image: View Post]wera803, on 04 June 2011 - 01:47 PM, said:
[image: View Post]JZH, on 04 June 2011 - 12:50 PM, said:
[image: View Post]wera803, on 03 June 2011 - 10:54 AM, said:
[image: View Post]JZH, on 03 June 2011 - 06:07 AM, said:
I don't think there are ANY left-hand threads on any VFR. I certainly can't think of any (though I have never fully stripped any VFR engines)...
The only one I know of is on the center stand.
Which VFR and where, exactly, is it? This I have to see... :blush:
Ciao,
At least 6th gen. I think 5th gen too. I know it has been brought up here before and I had to drill one out for House when he snapped his off. It's been a while though so I can't remember exactly where it was. Maybe into a bracket for the center stand that mounts to the frame or engine case?? I remember he was getting the swingarm and a bracket powdercoated, so it had to be in one of those pieces.
I can confirm this. I also snapped mine. IIRC, it is the right side bolt where the center stand hinges from.
Tell your S. O. it's going to take dynamite to fix the bolt. Blow it up, tell her it didn't work out like it should have then go get a new bike !! With a little more creativity, your insurance will pay for it...... :biggrin:
Skill, knowledge, and experience don't always yield the best solutions. Pragmatism mixed with imagination never fails.... :cool:
[image: View Post]wera803, on 04 June 2011 - 01:47 PM, said:
[image: View Post]JZH, on 04 June 2011 - 12:50 PM, said:
Which VFR and where, exactly, is it? This I have to see... :blush:
At least 6th gen. I think 5th gen too. I know it has been brought up here before and I had to drill one out for House when he snapped his off. It's been a while though so I can't remember exactly where it was. Maybe into a bracket for the center stand that mounts to the frame or engine case?? I remember he was getting the swingarm and a bracket powdercoated, so it had to be in one of those pieces.
I believe you!
But it's not on the 5th-gen--I had the stand off in order to fit the Erion system on my Y2k last month.
On the 6th-gen, that bolt is unusual, in that it has an "MCW" part number. Most bolts are "common parts" and do not have model-specific part numbers (MCW is the product code for the RC46-II, aka VTEC). The Ron Ayers microfiche doesn't contain anything in the description, but the CMS one calls it "BOLT, FLANGE L 10X", which seems to identify this as a left-handed thread bolt.
Ciao,
End of thread · 31 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 11 Jun 2011