This problem is a little difficult to describe because I can't establish a completely consistent pattern to it.
I have a 2004 ABS with about 25K miles on it.
When I start the bike when the engine is cold it sounds perfectly normal but within a few minutes of riding, a clicking/clacking/fluttering engine sound starts. It doesn't seem like valve noise because it doesn't seem to be engine speed dependent. I can hear it while running between about 20 and 30 mph but faster than that the engine and wind noise are loud enough that I can't tell whether the sound stops or I just can't hear it.
When I'm slowing to a stop with the clutch in the sound often stops before I come to a dead stop but it's not dependent on whether the clutch is engaged or not. Sometimes, however the sound continues while I'm at idle at a stop. When the bike gets up to maximum operating temperature the sound goes away, I think.
As I said, it doesn't seem like valve noise, it seems too loud for that and the click/flutter is happening a few times a second, not as fast as I would think a valve noise would be.
Thanks for any ideas or experience you might have.
I have been getting something similar on my '02 lately and from my investigation I suspect is the cam chain tensioner.
I didn't notice it before but after my last oil change it's very noticeable, probably due to the oil I'm using as I went to Motul 7100 20w50 fully stynthetic by mistake but by the time I realized I had already gone through 2 litres. I picked the bottle at the shop and though I was getting 10w40 :-(
Anyway, I have ordered new manual CCT's as even if that's not the cause of the noise it's about time I got them changed with 60,000kms on the bike.
I'm having a similar noise as your subscribing. Started since it's been cooler out, seems to go away on warmer days. I mostly here it after coming to a stop and idling. With a few light revs I can make it go away. I'm thinking it's a timing chain or tensioner issue? Not sure the fix or if its normal? Gonna try changing the oil this weekend,Its at about 4k, it's due.
Pretty common. Most likely the front CCT. Different oils have been rumored to quiet the rattling. No guarantee that a replacement CCT will eliminate the noise. If you go with the manual tensioner make certain that you tighten the lock nut!!
The CCT noise common to the 6 gen VFR is not the classic weak spring CCT causing the chain to rattle like other bikes. It is the internals of the CCT rattling within its case when there is air instead of oil in the case. That is why it is usually the front because of its angle traps air. That is why it is worse with thicker oil, cold engine, engine idling (lower oil pressure). It will not hurt the engine, it is just annoying as hell.
I am having good luck with Castrol GTX 10w40. It did not started to rattle until 80k miles and then only when the cold engine temperature rose to 150-160 deg and at idle. Once warmed up no noise.
[image: View Post]swfarrar, on 18 October 2012 - 04:53 PM, said:
It doesn't seem like valve noise because it doesn't seem to be engine speed dependent. I can hear it while running between about 20 and 30 mph
When I'm slowing to a stop with the clutch in the sound often stops before I come to a dead stop but it's not dependent on whether the clutch is engaged or not. Sometimes, however the sound continues while I'm at idle at a stop. When the bike gets up to maximum operating temperature the sound goes away, I think.
First, I thought it was loose chain.
Then the CCT(s) - Usually the front one.
Check the chain just in case - It never hurts.
BUT you most probably will have to deal with the front CCT.
Not a big deal actually.
I have an '02. The front CCT clatters, slightly, on start up at idle. A little rev, 2,500-3,500 RPM, to get the oil flowing stops the noise. I have 34,000 miles on the bike. I first noticed the clatter at around 22,000 miles. I use 10w-40 Castrol GTX.
Phantom2- It doesn't seem to be RPM-dependent. The sound seems as if it stays the same speed regardless of the RPM, but then I can't hear it any longer when the engine noise gets louder.
cct noise makes a KLack or metal to metal knock and there's no ryme or reason when it does it. Normally its more obvious around idling rpm if its doing it. That really sound like what your decsribing.
The airbox trap door makes a Hollow Thump, (once) every time the throttle is opened and closed, I guarantee that aint it.
You can install the manuals, which are more troublesome to adjust and ensure they dont come loose, but the OEM cct's will rattlle (brand new) a percentage of the time. But most times you'll get lucky and the new one wont rattle, oil type does have effect on rattling developement also in some circumstances , but not all.
Thanks, spud786. It's definitely not a thump when I open and close the throttle. I'm going to change the oil as soon as I'm back on my feet from some back surgery and see if that helps.
I'll be moving to Austin in January, hope to see you on the road there.
[image: View Post]swfarrar, on 23 October 2012 - 11:11 PM, said:
Thanks, spud786. It's definitely not a thump when I open and close the throttle. I'm going to change the oil as soon as I'm back on my feet from some back surgery and see if that helps.
I'll be moving to Austin in January, hope to see you on the road there.
My Brother works for Boeing in Seattle, thats quite a Huge move to make, and alot different climate wise. An oil change itself wont have much effect on cct noise, you'd have to install an oil thats known to have quitening effect on cct's, to have a chance. If the oil your running is allowing cct noise, just changing it to fresh oil of the same type wont aide.
Yeah, I did the reverse move - Austin to Seattle - 25 years ago and still spend a lot of time in Austin so I know what I'm getting into - heat, humidity, mosquitoes, fire ants, rattlesnakes, hail, tornadoes - all that fun stuff.
I don't know what oil is in there now, I bought the bike as a trade-in and the oil had just been changed so this is my first time. I have some Rotella T6 on hand so I'll give that a try.
Well I can confirm now that the noise in my case was the CCT!
I have replaced the stock, non-adjustable ones for a pair of CRU's manual units and the "ticking" noise is gone!
They are a b!tch to adjust (not easy to tight the tightening nut) but once doen the sound is gone (and, at least tome, the engine seems a tiny bit more responsive).
[image: View Post]spud786, on 04 November 2012 - 07:00 PM, said:
might want to drop a drip of loctite on the threads, so risk if nut loosens,= bad news.
Thought about that but then also thought that it would actually make it even more difficult to re-tighten the tensioner in the future.
Gotta find myself some kind og long socket tool that can slip over the top nut and tighten the bottom one (I'm sure I've seen something like that somewhere).
Google to the rescue!
It's called a "flex spanner" and it should do me nicely!
or a drop of silicone behind the nut, so nut wont easily back off, that should peel off easy when needed. We already had one guy who lost their topend, Says he forgot to tighten, but Originally said he used a crows foot to tighten, so not sure if forgot or it came loose. Point is there's no real locking mechanism on that lock nut, vibration loosens it, and the potential is there.
[image: View Post]spud786, on 04 November 2012 - 07:14 PM, said:
or a drop of silicone behind the nut, so nut wont easily back off, that should peel off easy when needed. We already had one guy who lost their topend, Says he forgot to tighten, but Originally said he used a crows foot to tighten, so not sure if forgot or it came loose. Point is there's no real locking mechanism on that lock nut, vibration loosens it, and the potential is there.
Silicone sounds better! I will give it a try on the weekend (only commuting this week, will see if it loosens itself as it is).
End of thread · 26 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 9 Nov 2012