5Th Gen Exhaust Removal Questions

I am hoping to be able to remove my entire exhaust in the next few weeks so that I can get the ceramic coated. Just some quick questions from some of you more experienced guys:

1. I have been looking at the service manual that is hosted here (PDF pg 79 or chapter-page 2-23) and I noticed that there aren't bolts that go into the block, rather nuts that go on bolts coming out of the block. Is that correct?
2. Are those gaskets where the pipe meets the blocks? Are they reusable or should I go ahead and buy new ones?
3. My clamps look ugly, but sound. Should I go ahead and get new ones? 
4. Is this going to be a weekend job or a couple hour job?

Any tips you guys have for a idiot like me would be appreciated!

I am hoping to be able to remove my entire exhaust in the next few weeks so that I can get the ceramic coated. Just some quick questions from some of you more experienced guys:

1. I have been looking at the service manual that is hosted here (PDF pg 79 or chapter-page 2-23) and I noticed that there aren't bolts that go into the block, rather nuts that go on bolts coming out of the block. Is that correct?
2. Are those gaskets where the pipe meets the blocks? Are they reusable or should I go ahead and buy new ones?
3. My clamps look ugly, but sound. Should I go ahead and get new ones? 
4. Is this going to be a weekend job or a couple hour job?

Any tips you guys have for a idiot like me would be appreciated!

1. Correct. There are studs coming out of the head.

2. There are copper rings that seal the pipe. Get new ones because they crush when you put the exhaust on and tighten it up.

3. Have them coated along with the pipe?

4. Should be able to get it off in a couple of hours.

5. Spray all fasteners down with PB Blaster or something and let it sit over night.

I would add that upon reassembly, use stainless steel bolts with some anti-seize for the clamps, the original bolts will look like crap compared to the coated stuff. And the sandblasting has to be PERFECT! Right down to virgin metal everywhere. Sandblasting followed by a caustic wash would be even better.

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And some of my cylinder head studs threaded out with the nuts. I just went with it. Better than them snapping off. Anti sieze on all the head bolts/nuts on reassembly too! A little heavy grease holds the copper crush rings in place while bolting up the headpipes.

wera803 - excellent info, just what I was looking for!

Veefer - I remember you saying that the blasting had to be thorough, so I found this place about an hour away from me:

http://www.afipowder.com/capabilities/

They were referred to me by a guy who does better than new restoration work on old Ferrari's, Pantera's, and other cars I never heard of before. They are supposedly known nationwide and yet reasonable priced. I talked to the owner (he actually answers the phone) and he said he never did a VFR before, so it would be $225. I said "Deal!"

Man... between Wera and Canuk they've said all I was going to say... some of my studs came out with the nuts as well... I too just went with it... also used a little grease to hold coper crush gaskets in place and kept a good eye on them to make sure they stayed symetrically centred while tightening up... careful tightening up bit by bit alternating from one side to the other... get the torque right.

Getting the clamp bolts out can be tough... they can snap... and squeel like beeatches... plenty of anti-seize... get new stainless ones if possible and stainless bolts... in short...

Oh yeah, X2 on retightening the head bolts. They use very little torque. I used my torque wrench. I wanna say like 9 ft/lbs, but that's from memory, you should confirm that.

I tightened them slowly in stages, alternating back and forth, and each time you tighten one to spec, then do the other, switch back and do them again, because as the copper washers crush, you'll get more turns out of them, even though the torque wrench setting is the same.

I alternated back and forth between each bolt at the recommended value until the wrench would click and there was no more movement of the fasteners at that value.

Auspanol & Veefer - you just reminded me of something important - I need to get a torque wrench! Do you have any recommendation for a specific one? From what I have heard at the Nighthawk forum, buy the most expensive one you can afford. But that doesn't tell me much.

I have a couple of Westward brand torque wrenches. 1/2" and 3/8" drives. Clicker types, not the beam type, nor digital. They work fine and weren't too expensive.

Haven't heard of that brand, where do you find them?

I'm in Spain so I don't think my references will be of much use... got one at a local professionals tool/hardware store, can't recall the brand... Primus I think... it's a clicker.

Haven't heard of that brand, where do you find them?

How about a Sears Craftsman, reasonably priced and available locally. Mines lasted many years and is close enough for my work.

Haven't heard of that brand, where do you find them?

Should be able to get WestWard tools at Acklands-Grainger.

Haven't heard of that brand, where do you find them?

How about a Sears Craftsman, reasonably priced and available locally. Mines lasted many years and is close enough for my work.

While they are still guaranteed, I have been sorely disappointed with the quality of the craftsman hand tools the last few years.

If cost is no object, Snap-on makes some very nice torque wrenches. All the techs where I used to work swore by them.