Phlebmaster's 1987 Vfr750F Evolution- Full Of Pics And Win!

First I want to thank frodus for the awesome deal on the 86 eVFR he worked so hard on.... now it is time to bring her back to square one and put a fossil fuel burning ozone layer eating monster back in. I have a matching 86 VFR750 with some issues and a totaled title and this bike was the injection I needed to put this thing together right. Here is his project thread: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/40067-1986-vfr700-conversion-to-electric/page-1

Now, on to the evolution..... :-) Please forgive the multiple posts while I get you updated.

First I need to catch you up and give you some history so this all makes sense. My first bike was a 76 KZ400 and I converted it into a nice cafe racer, then traded it for an 85 VF500f and after fixing that up I traded the VF500f for this 1986 VFR 750...... here we go.

The bike needed a few things, but that is the way I like it.

[image: 6jilc1.jpg]

[image: 30lp6kk.jpg]

[image: 16aa3ac.jpg]

[image: 5twfn5.jpg]

[image: nno5xy.jpg]

I considered a naked look due to the problems with the plastics. But then I came across Travis and his bike.....

So, now down to business. I now have some things I needed to do to this bike to make it roadworthy. I had it less than 1 hour and have discovered the source of the carb leak, it is the rear plastic carb tube that puts fuel to the rear carbs from the pump.

Parts list I needed for this project!

- I needed blinkers all around- Check!
- Rear brake light- Check!
- Seat- I want to do something custom though- check!
- all the fasteners to hold the body work on- now I have all needed fasteners
- That hard to find fuel tube thingy (I may have it on the way)- hopefully having one made custom
- Maybe a few more items, but won't know yet.- still pending after getting this new bike.
- Keyed gas cap- ordered and in transit

This will be a quick project, I had it running and the Yoshi exhaust sounds very nice! Tickles me in a happy place.... lol

I'll post a video of it running very soon. I am considering going naked on this bike.... wink wink

Say goodbye to the 500... and hello to the vfr750

[image: 2vlp4qd.jpg]

[image: 1o6fqh.jpg]

[image: 23wrwp.jpg]

[image: igzvpl.jpg]

[image: 25pl1e0.jpg]

[image: 15gb8rk.jpg]

I pulled the carbs and cleaned the gunk out of them. I also drilled the sliders and added spacers for the needles to compensate for the Yoshi exhaust.

The rear crossover tube leaks again, but the bike will idle on its own and revs quick!

Carb cholesterol.....YUK!

[image: bzrcg.jpg]

[image: 33dz7d5.jpg]

All clean!!

[image: zlevkz.jpg]

Drilled the sliders and spaced the needles....Tricks I learned from the KZ400 jet kits

[image: 2jfd47c.jpg]

All done and ready to install....

[image: 29dz5kw.jpg]

Here is the leak culprit. Proof that they don't make 27 year old plastic tubes like they used to.

I found a replacement for $22.00 or I can have Sinnergy make me one....either way after I fix that and replace the insulators the bike is ready to rock!

[image: 11lnfcg.jpg]

Put the bodywork on just to get an idea of what I still need. Looks like a windshield, turn signals, tail light, and seat. Ugly duckling...but she screams!

[image: 33ynztf.jpg]

[image: qstp4x.jpg]

This was my first ride on this project. Woohoo!!

http://youtu.be/ZgbJ_Jb5Jnk'>http://youtu.be/ZgbJ_Jb5Jnk

I ordered a new keyed gas cap, windscreen, mirrors, got a seat and even swung for a new helmet......my red one is about done.

BUT!! You have to see what I just got my hands on....

[image: 294owhz.jpg]

[image: 2vubjoo.jpg]

Yep! This is a Chuck Crites of Cobalt Racing One Piece Tail Section Cowl. I can't wait to put this thing on!

Check out the new tail piece!!

[image: iedsoi.jpg]

Now for the current info....

Wanna see what I got from frodus?

There are many rare peices in the bunch and most of the items were made by Chuck Crite from Cobalt Racing. This thing even has a fiberglass tank that could be finished.....

Okay, so here we go... The new bike has a clean clear title and only ~4300 miles, rebuilt forks and even a center stand! The headlights are custom with alum casing so they weren't cheap and there is even a custom stitched seat along with a mint stock seat.

[image: 1j527r.jpg]

[image: 2rqoapx.jpg]

[image: 2d93gjr.jpg]

[image: 2330jm.jpg]

[image: 2u4r702.jpg]

[image: 21bovvs.jpg]

[image: 2cp28oj.jpg]

[image: 2uojbyp.jpg]

[image: 2s63p0z.jpg]

Looky...they are getting to know eachother before the transplant! How quaint! I am swaping the engine into the new frame.

[image: xqmjbn.jpg]

[image: 2h3oho7.jpg]

[image: 5mbasl.jpg]

Crazy lights....

[image: 38veo.jpg]

Stay tuned for the swap..... Thanks to Travis!

Aaron

Me likey and can't wait to see the final product!!! What are your plans for paint?

Rollin

RollinAgain

Me likey and can't wait to see the final product!!! What are your plans for paint?

Rollin

Sigh... that is a hard one. With all of the cool parts I am seriously thinking of going stock, but the crazy headlights say go custom! We will hash that out after the swap but no matter which way it goes it will be done carefully since I cannot replace the parts. No rattle can jobies! :-)

But I have inspiration here...

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/gallery/image/18276-nick01jpg/

RC30 / NC30 paint scheme would look pretty damn sweet. Now about that single sided swingarm mod :goofy:

RC30

[image: post-14198-0-69166300-1360115484.jpg]

NC30

[image: post-14198-0-92980100-1360115614.jpg]

Rollin

Ohh... Yeah, I agree! Twin headlights and all.....

You can see what I did to the VF500f, that was with a spray can believe it or not!

[image: 6h69zo.jpg]

[image: 9vbllz.jpg]

[image: t0pw88.jpg]

Hey dude, Good luck! Glad it found a new home! I just bought my Brammo Empulse R, so it's on it's way. Thanks for the help in making room in my garage!

My friend has a set of carbs, make him an offer on them... I think they'd come with that fuel tube thingy.

Updates!!

Started the process of swapping everything over today. I took my time and did this right... 8 hours of work to get her where she sits now. I will need to get a hand dropping the motor and such. But that is about all that is left!

I got my windscreen today too so it has been a very productive day. So here are the obligatory pictures. :-)

There they sit waiting for action...

[image: qpj992.jpg]

Pulled the donor bike apart first..

[image: 9jzme9.jpg]

Pulled the harness adn all the electrics taking pictures along the way so I don't screw it up later.

[image: 1gkap4.jpg]

[image: 2j2xe20.jpg]

Looks like a bobber!! LOL

[image: 14t340g.jpg]

I had to pull the under fender from the donor bike because the battery tray was cut out on the new bike to make room for electronics.

[image: 2iszl39.jpg]

I painted it...

[image: 2ue2sep.jpg]

The electrics going on....

[image: 2n9gff5.jpg]

Swapped the 60 tooth sprocket for the 45..

[image: 10igrya.jpg]

Controls are on...

[image: np299g.jpg]

Test fitting the rear frame portion...

[image: 2wfvcrs.jpg]

[image: pb0hl.jpg]

[image: 2sb2vi8.jpg]

Next is the engine!!! Stay tunned!

Engine swap complete! I also confirmed my wiring, tested the headlights and fuel pump....all she needs now is the carburetor piece to run!

Next will be the body and paint....

[image: vwsf10.jpg]

[image: 6pt5kx.jpg]

Say good by to the old frame...

[image: 2cxi1he.jpg]

Hello new frame!

[image: 14j2ty0.jpg]

[image: 9ve52f.jpg]

[image: 14izkg8.jpg]

Got Juice!!

.[image: mvn5e9.jpg]

Pretty bright!!

[image: 359kbh2.jpg]

[image: eu4rbn.jpg]

Thanks to Travis and Jim!!

I was able to get a spare carb set with all of the parts needed and even a new set of insulators! I got a gas cap from China but it is not a direct replacement....oh well. I think I have figured out a way to force it to work...hehehe (drill, sledgehammer, glue) JK

Last thing to do before starting this bike is add oil and fresh coolant. I have everything else!!

Video soon to come.....

Put the bodywork on today just to get a look at how everything will fit together. The fiberglass is configured just a little bit different so some of the holes will require modifications to the mounts to get it all on....no biggy.

Tested the turn signals, brake lights and other assorted electrics and all works great.

Here are some pictures of her with everything on.....I may go with the racing tail instead of the seat but that will be later.

[image: 9rnbl5.jpg]

[image: 1ewfba.jpg]

[image: 2a6tfdj.jpg]

[image: fctnr6.jpg]

[image: vrzwjd.jpg]

Testing the racing tail. Looks good from my perspective but not stock at all. I think I will make sure both peices get the same paint so I can go with either.

[image: 30sykqw.jpg]

[image: 219s779.jpg]

Looks great dude!

You're missing the fairing stay on both sides. It mounts midway down. The ones I gave you are black machined pieces and I didn't drill them because I didn't get the faitings all fitted. You should put them on, it will keep them from flexing inward.

As far as fitting that solo tail, you need to remove the seat lock/rails and fab a bracket to fit it properly.

Remove the handlebar mount that I put on there. No need for it, just takes up space and looks weird.

frodus

Looks great dude!

You're missing the fairing stay on both sides. It mounts midway down. The ones I gave you are black machined pieces and I didn't drill them because I didn't get the faitings all fitted. You should put them on, it will keep them from flexing inward.

As far as fitting that solo tail, you need to remove the seat lock/rails and fab a bracket to fit it properly.

Remove the handlebar mount that I put on there. No need for it, just takes up space and looks weird.

I was wondering what that black screw looking thing was but I only found one so I'll look to see if I can find a second in the box.

Thanks for the tip on the tail... I'll see about making the mount and such. And as for the handlebar mount...I wasn't sure if that was a necessary peice so I'll remove it.

She runs now, but I managed to allow crud from the tank get into my cleaned carbs, so now they have to come back off for another cleaning. I forgot to put a filter on it.... oops! Live and learn I guess....there is one on now. :P

Yeah, there should be two machined black fairing stays in there. I took them both off. Maybe the can of parts tipped over.

That handlebar mount is for superbike style handlebars, rather than clip-ons. Use if you want, I was going to as I thought it looked better.

As far as the Tail, I'll see if I can contact another owner. I did send a bunch of stuff to the guy you got it from, see if he has it. Those screw holes on the top bolt into a bracket that you'll need to make that goes down and screws onto the subframe. The rear subframe/seat lock/rails come off. Once you go to this one, it's hard to go back, so I'd get em painted and ride around on the stock for a while.

Sup Phleb. Must be tough work updating two forums!

Love the project!

wagigkpn

Sup Phleb. Must be tough work updating two forums!

Love the project!

LOL... try 3

google phlebmaster and you will see. hahaha

Good to see you here too! Nice digs...

Sumation video.... This bike is ready to rock!

Thanks for all your help!

"Definitely will piss off my neighbors." Haha! I know what you mean. :wheel:

Awesome to see it running!

score!

Went for a 20 mile ride this evening. This bike is a whole different animal from the 1990 VFR I have been riding. I have already scared myself once or twice on the 86...not the same at all!

Get used to the bias ply tires.

Do you still have the stock forks?

Veefer800Canuck

Get used to the bias ply tires.

Do you still have the stock forks?

Yes, stock forks.

The VF500 was darty and this bike has the same type of turning characteristics as the VF.....I got used to the smooth predictable turning of the 90 vfr.

Also...let's just say the 86 has a little more "off the line" than the 90....watch those wheelies! lol

long term, once you get the paint and carbs sorted, the CBR F2 17" wheels/forks/brakes conversion is an excellent choice.

the 41mm forks and 17" wheels with radial tires made a world of difference on my '86

i went with 120/70-17 front and 160/60-17 rear.

Veefer800Canuck

long term, once you get the paint and carbs sorted, the CBR F2 17" wheels/forks/brakes conversion is an excellent choice.

the 41mm forks and 17" wheels with radial tires made a world of difference on my '86

i went with 120/70-17 front and 160/60-17 rear.

Thanks! I have heard that is the thing to do to improve handling and get away from biased tires.

I am seriously considering a vinyl wrap with decals...that is if I can't figure out a way to do an RC30 paint scheme without ruining the bodywork. I don't wish to try to find these parts again. ;-)

[image: 86rightside.jpg]

[image: 86leftfront.jpg]

[image: 86leftside.jpg]

I have put about 80 miles on it so far. I have some kinks to work out with the carbs and a few small things.

This bike is hands down quicker than the 1990 VFR (red one in my pics).... The Yoshi exhaust has a nice sound, almost Ducati like. Can't wait to start on the paint!

I rebuilt the carbs and rejetted them for a proper fuel ratio considering the exhaust and snorkel mod. I have put over 300 miles on her and she goes like stink!

Now I had to get started on paint.... so here we go! Yes, it was a single can of spray paint from Home Depot....but it still looks good.

[image: 5y6new.jpg]

[image: 14uywpf.jpg]

[image: 17wdon.jpg]

Had a meltdown at the starter relay so I tore the bike apart looking for the elusive electrical gremlin that caused this sudden misfortune. after striping and tracing the entire harness (finding nothing remarkable) I wrapped it back up and traced the switches on each handlebar, connectors, and even the cluster mess behind the speedo, again finding nothing. No burnt or cut wires and all grounds were intact.

My symptoms- to hopefully help others in my predicament:

She ran perfect, however my R/R was under the seat and the last couple of rides my butt was on fire! That was something new from other times I rode this bike for longer distances with no fried cheeks. I just figured it was the exhaust and sat in a cool bath.... lol

Then I took the bike one time to go around the block and I smelt electrical burning and saw the dreaded smoke rising from R side rear cowl. UGH!! Low and behold the 30 amp fuse was melted and so was the starter relay where the wires join the party. So that was shot.... I wasn't sure what caused the melt down so I rerouted a fuse link to test things.

At idle (at first) there were no symptoms or heating of the wires on the relay. The R/R was hot (like normal), but the wires were not that came from the R/R....only at the starter relay AND only after I turned on the headlight (which I have switched for on/off control). When I turn on the lights or indicators the relay wire would heat up and smoke....but when I turned it off the smoke would stop. Very strange!

Tested the R/R at the battery- ~13.5 volts at idle and ~14 at 5000 rpm which seemed fine. I traced the wires for continuity and for shorts to ground and still nothing.

Then after much research here and there I discovered that I needed to check my regulator/rectifier. What I found was the R/R was replaced previously with a cheapy R/R from an old Kawi. I was baffled and had no idea you could replace that part with something from a different bike altogether.

So after doing more research I decided to go ahead and upgrade my charging system in addition to switching to a new tech mosfet R/R such as an FH0012AA or FH0020AA from a newer bike. I used 10 gauge wire for this upgrade (overkill I know) but I want to make sure the system was not going to fail due to resistance again.

Now all I need is a new starter relay and the above mentioned mosfet R/R. :-)

All too common sight with these bikes....

[image: 2cy55h.jpg]

Yikes! I was riding with this mess....my fault for not checking. :P

[image: 15gtlkg.jpg]

[image: muedzr.jpg]

[image: 2ninuj8.jpg]

Here is the 10 gauge wire, liquid electric tape and other assorted task oriented stuff to get the job done.

[image: 5lnlte.jpg]

I had the wiring diagram for reference

[image: 2z6h7r4.jpg]

30 amp fusible link...good to have!

[image: 200ck9d.jpg]

Getting everything put together.

[image: v7f3t4.jpg]

Wired the positive and negative from the R/R directly to the battery as suggested by many sources...

[image: 14t4f2a.jpg]

The new home for the mosfet R/R as soon as I can get one.,...lol Hope to find one soon.

[image: 4ljf6a.jpg]

Ready to rock!! The idea behind mounting here is to keep airflow on the regulator and out from under my butt!

[image: 6qh8j6.jpg]

Here is what I am getting....this is the latest and greatest and I will never have another R/R failure again.

http://roadstercycle.com/

FH020AA Upgrade.... yes, I can use a R/R from a 2012 bike. This is a common upgrade for many bikes who have R/R failures.

I have also upgraded my charging system to boot with the 10g wires and air tight connections. I clipped and re-wired the stator as close to the cover as I could.

Should be here on Monday... Can't wait!

I replaced the diode R/R with a mosfet FH012AA from an 2010 Yamaha R1 to reduce heat and replaced the charging system wiring with 10 gauge.

This was an easy upgrade and I recommend it! The bike is steady at ~14.45- 14.55 volts regardless of RPM or accessories.

http://youtu.be/z6tfes65ieg

Electrical system is working flawlessly! My headlights light up the world at night...no more cluster light flickers with the turn signals on and everything is going well!

Now I am ready for the CBR F2-F3 suspension upgrade.... Actively looking for parts to complete this venture.

Want to start with the rear wheel and shock upgrade. The suspension upgrade is about the only thing I have left to do aside from cosmetics on this bike.....function is more important to me. It looks like a track bike now and that is fine with me. :D

Here is what I need for the rear wheel upgrade: (taken from here) http://www.hondavfr.org/faq1_4.html

F2 wheel
F2 cush drive/dampers
F2 wheel bearings/dust seals
F2 distance collar
F2 cush drive bearing
F2 rotor
F2 rear sprocket*

Ride-height adjustable shock**

** The Fox Twin-Clicker makes this simple.

Would like inverted forks from a 99 GSXR 1100 with complete wheel/brakes etc... But will settle for the F2-F3 set up. I know these parts are not cheap so I hope to find a good deal somewhere.

I know there is someone on this board with these parts sitting in a shed...lol

More to post when these parts come available!

Looks good !!!!!

Switchblade

Looks good !!!!!

Thanks!!

Today I upgraded my fuel system and made a seat pad...finally. My tush was getting pretty sore and my kidneys will appreciate the padding. :-)

The fuel pump is a Mr Gasket 42s which puts out 28 gpm @ 2-3.5psi....which my bike really likes!

[image: 5eamfn.jpg]

[image: mwziv7.jpg]

[image: 10dytmp.jpg]

[image: 1zjebl.jpg]

most wheels on ebay do not have the cush drive and sprocket. I used the VF500 cush drive on my F2 swap so I have an extra F2 cush drive/sprocket for you if it will help, so get out there and bid on the rest of the stuff.

Man here's good info for ya, dont remember who wrote it but thank them not me.

You already have it sweet.

timmythecop

most wheels on ebay do not have the cush drive and sprocket. I used the VF500 cush drive on my F2 swap so I have an extra F2 cush drive/sprocket for you if it will help, so get out there and bid on the rest of the stuff.

Nice! Thanks for the offer...

Now I am ready for the CBR F2-F3 suspension upgrade....

Today I picked up these items!!

F2 wheel

F2 cush drive/dampers

F2 wheel bearings/dust seals

[image: 2cwoj9v.jpg]

[image: 21d7ww.jpg]

Hey Phlebmaster, I heard you sold this bike. Is it true?

Anyway, The reason the wire mented on you by the relay was because Honda designed the entire bikes electrical power to come from one little 16 or so gauge wire and a female spade terminal. It's not smart at all. If that spade terminal gets even a tiny bit of corrosion it will develop increased resistance and that leads to heat. As these bikes get old the spade connector gets corroded and weak from all the heat cycles and eventually things start to melt and smoke.

I did something similar to you and bypassed the relay, except for the 2 solenoid wires.

Anyway, I see you ran the reg/rec charging wire through a 30 amp fuse, but it looks like the bikes main power wire from the battery to the ignition does NOT have a fuse. That's a big safety concern there.