Changing Sprockets And Chain Leads To Bleeding Clutch

Ok, so first let me admit that I've never changed sprockets or bled a clutch line.  I took a risk and purchased a rivet-style chain (D.I.D.) as well as the chain riveting tool.  I performed the deed in the dark of night, and to my surprise, everything went together just fine.  The problems started when I had it all back together and ready to test out the new equipment.  The second I pulled the clutch lever in I knew something was wrong . . . no resistance whatsoever.  Ugh, crap!  I'm already in the doghouse for spending too much time in the garage! 

I tried bleeding the line like I do for the brakes, but no luck.  I read about using a syringe and tube hooked up to the nipple on the slave cylinder, so I went to the local farm supply store and bought those.  I gave it a whirl, but still no luck.  My last option was one that I read about that intrigued me.  I sucked all the fluid out of the MC, filled the syringe and tube with hydraulic fluid (tapped out all the air), then attached the tube to the nipple.  I cracked the nipple open, and simply pushed the fluid up the clutch line and into the MC.  Once full, I tried the clutch . . . no go.  I thought, "What the heck?" and decided I should try squeezing the air out of the MC.  So, I pulled the lever, cracked the connection point, and ffffsssstttt . . . air escaped.  Once I tightened the connection back up and pulled the handle . . . viola! 

So glad to be a part of this forum . . . if it hadn't been for some very creative people out there, I would never have thought of pushing the fluid in like that.  Thank you for taking the time to post.

now that you have it working, do a few pumps the "conventional way" and run one reservoir full of fluid downwards, just to be sure. you might get some more air out doing that.

And next time, don't remove the slave from the countershaft cover. I know the FSM says to remove it, but it's pointless and only leads to problems like this one.

Veefer, are you saying to suck out one reservoir worth of hydraulic fluid by utilizing the nipple on the slave?  Not sure what you are recommending (could also squeeze the clutch lever, unscrew the connection at the slave, tighten it back up, and let goof the clutch lever method),  I hate to mess with it again now that it is working.

I should also note that originally I did not remove the slave, but inadvertently got one of the sensor wires from the exhaust stuck in between the sprocket cover and the shim.  It was here where I decided to "bleed the system" in a conventional manner.  When this didn't work, I took it back apart and noticed my error.  When back together again, the clutch still did not work.  I figured I must have introduced some more air or something, so that is when I decided to go from the bottom up.  Clutch fluid was tea colored, so no harm, no foul.

Shameless plug:

http://www.youtube.c...h?v=SIPY8_lCGe4

Not sure why I don't have one for my Fifth Gen... That will change soon.

This video will give you an idea.

Bleeding the clutch is pretty easy and gets all the junk out if you start with empty lines.

If I can recommend one item for bleeding hydraulic lines, Speed Bleeders. These are a tremendous time saver when bleeding your hydraulic lines. Although they are probably not the best choice if you are "back bleeding", the check valve does not work in that direction, but for typical bleeding procedure they rock!. I first put these on my Duc and you can bleed the clutch line in less than 5 minutes with only turn turns of a wrench, one to open and another to close the bleeder. When I installed the steel braided lines on the VFR, I installed them there too. A secondary recommendation for bleeding tools would be a mighty-vac, this works great for draining the lines when you need to replace them, but would be redundant IMO, if you have speed bleeders.