I hate to start another electrical thread, and have been reading all the wiring harness threads and testing various parts of the system, but I am trying to learn how to use a multimeter. Mine is analog. And all I know about electricity is that it is FM. (Fooken Magic). I need to figure out why oldster's fuel pump won't energize.
To find the bad spot, I'm supposed to remove the cable from the positive post of the battery, put the black lead (ground) from the meter on the neg. battery post, and measure voltage and resistance at suspect places along the harness. Right? The battery is charged and the engine cranks fine. Just no whine.
Everything was working fine (accept the horn - it's wires had been connected - broken fuse holder) before I took the wiring harness apart in front to replace the upper cowl support. All connections looked great and everything was connected properly. I had to buy a new in-line fuse for the horn and reconnect it. I turned the key and the horn started blaring non-stop. Shut off ignition and unplugged the horn. Deal with that later. But the fuel pump did not energize when I turned the ignition back on. I do not know if the fuel pump energized the first time because the horn had all my attention. Took all front wires apart again and sprayed electrical cleaner on both sides of all connections. Back together, fuel pump still does not work. Could the horn event affect the rest of the harness or the fuel pump ? This '01, the oldster, has 105,000 mi. I started to check the fuel pump but the service manual has me removing the air box and all ignition pieces so I stopped. Seems too much just to test the fuel pump. And I need detailed procedure to test the pump.
BTW, I have a VFRness and Rick's r/r to be put on the youngster (no r/r melting, burnt connectors, all looks perfect) bike as preventive. (The old gals r/r and stator failed and were replaced 17,000 mi ago. I'm hopeing they will last a while.) I should probably order a second VFRness for the oldster but money is tight and I've already spent $1500 for new bodywork.
I'm going out to disassemble the start/stop switch to see what it looks like. Back in a few minutes.
The easy way to test the pump is to unplug the 2 pin connector under the tank - wire colors should be brown and green.
You can stick the 2 leads of the multimeter right into the connector and turn on the key, alternatively, you can stick one lead from the meter into the brown wire side of the connector and touch the black to chassis ground. Switch the bike on and look for a voltage about 12 (if negative, you have just flipped the leads from the meter, its all the same though). Make sure you are testing the side of the connector going to the bike, not the side going to the tank.
If you don't see any voltage at this connector with the key on, then your problem is in the switching circuit. If there is about 12 volts here, then your problem is with the fuel pump.
The easy way to test the pump is to unplug the 2 pin connector under the tank - wire colors should be brown and green.
You can stick the 2 leads of the multimeter right into the connector and turn on the key, alternatively, you can stick one lead from the meter into the brown wire side of the connector and touch the black to chassis ground. Switch the bike on and look for a voltage about 12 (if negative, you have just flipped the leads from the meter, its all the same though). Make sure you are testing the side of the connector going to the bike, not the side going to the tank.
If you don't see any voltage at this connector with the key on, then your problem is in the switching circuit. If there is about 12 volts here, then your problem is with the fuel pump.
No prob. Remember that the pump only runs for a few seconds when the bike is turned on so the voltage will only be on for this time, then back to zero-ish.
Fuel pump is on the same fuse, replace the fuse, then have a look at the horn itself, mine on the old girl had worn the plastic off the leads and kept shorting out when I turned the handle bars all the way, I taped it up with electrical tape and that fixed it. Or try shring wrapping the connectors then fitting them again. Then replace the fuse.
Fuel pump is on the same fuse, replace the fuse, then have a look at the horn itself, mine on the old girl had worn the plastic off the leads and kept shorting out when I turned the handle bars all the way, I taped it up with electrical tape and that fixed it. Or try shring wrapping the connectors then fitting them again. Then replace the fuse.
I've checked all the fuses several times (under the seat and such). I'll do it again though. The problem with the horn is that it's on all the time when ignition is on. I cannot tell from fiche if there is an inline fuse for the horn right up front. Thinking lately the fuse may be left over from an old install of a cig lighter socket. What diff. would that make. A fuse for a lighter on the horn wires. I'll try leaving the fuse off for the horn to see if that makes a diff. No possible way for this fuse to be for the fuel pump. This was hanging loose under the front cowl.
Fuel pump is on the same fuse, replace the fuse, then have a look at the horn itself, mine on the old girl had worn the plastic off the leads and kept shorting out when I turned the handle bars all the way, I taped it up with electrical tape and that fixed it. Or try shring wrapping the connectors then fitting them again. Then replace the fuse.
Are you sure about that? I can pull the horn fuse (also with turn signals) and the bike will still start. A quick check of my mostly disassembled '98 and I don't see an inline fuse for the horn or any other circuits in that vicinity. As far as the horn goes, did you play with the switch to check if it was stuck?
This may sound strange but I recently had the same dead fuel pump issue on my 99 after doing some electrical work. So I started to look at the relays that are on that circuit ( one in the rear on the right side of the bike and one at about amidship on the same side) ... I wS just about to start jumping these relays when I remembered something about fixing a stuck relay with a good whack from a screwdriver handle. So I whacked the middle one 3 or 4 times with a good size screwdriver and whammo she fired right up. Not very scientific I know but effective in my case and really easy to try once the plastic is off. Good luck!
A relay is nothing more then a remote controlled light-switch in your house.
When you power a relay the switch goes to connecting mode, same as you turn your house lights on with your hand.
When you remove the power to a relay then the contact opens en the house light goes off.
This to give you a good idea what a relay is and does.
So when you make contact with your ignition-key, you power the relay and the current should flow to your fuel-pump.
Ergo measure if the fuel-pump is getting any voltage.
If it does the fuel-pump is probably broken.
If it doesn't, then measure the input of the relay to see if there is voltage to see if there is any voltage at all.
If the relay does get voltage, then the relay is broken.
If the relay doesn't get voltage then a fuse or some wiring to the relay has a problem.
It's basically nothing more then follow the line where the current stops flowing.
The same as with a river, there is a problem at the bottom (fuel-pump) then follow the stream until you find the point where the water (voltage) stops :laugh:
According to my wiring diagrams (I have both Oz 2001 model and rest of world, 98-99 model, and this part of the wiring doesn't differ) there are two relays and the PGM/FI involved in the fuel pump circuit.
You have a Black/ pink wire from the fuse which is switched by the 'Engine Stop' relay to a Black/white wire which both energises and is switched by the Fuel Cut Relay which is controlled by the PGM/FI, the output of this relay is the brown wire to the pump The black/white wire feeds to nearly all devices in the fuel circuit, injectors, fuel pump, ignition coils, intake duct control solenoid valve and a feed back to the PGM/FI.
So if 12V is missing from the Brown/Green wire at the two pin plug/socket feeding the pump there is plenty to explore :cool:
There is no indication of where the relays are located on the bike but the wire colours may give a clue and no connection between horn and fuel circuit although the fuses are shown beside each other on the wiring diagram. If you need to I can draw a circuit but just a bit short of time at present.
Good luck, a bit of relay tapping sounds like a good idea on a bike with the mileage yours has.
End of thread · 10 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 1 May 2014