Stator Output

hey all just picked up a nice 3rd gen,but of course its not charging

everything as far as wiring/connectors looks good

before i just throw a new r/r on it i would like to check if that is the actual problem

how do i go about checking the ac voltage coming from the alternator/stator and what should i see?

Here is a link to post on shhhhhhhh, the other VFR site, that was helpful to me when I was checking the charging system on my VFR.  Have a look.  There was some good info on there and a video on how to check the voltage coming off the stator.  

http://vfrworld.com/...r-failures.html

Hope this helps

Download the service manual from the Downloads sections.  There's a flow chart to walk you through everything, including how to test the RR itself. 

I believe your looking for 20VAC at idle, and around 60VAC at 5k.  From the RR connector, you can also test for resistance of the stator, you're looking for 0.1 - 1.0 ohms.

Here's step by step list for a quick check of the charging system. 

  You will need a multimeter.

Steps:

- Recharge battery overnite - then to take it to Autozone or similar to load test. -- Good? Bad? – An iffy battery can fake you out and act like a bad R/R. Buy new if needed.

- With good battery fire it up, warm up for a minute or two.

These are R/R quick checks---

--- With voltmeter at battery get voltages -- idle volts? 5000 rpm volts? What’s the numbers? Should be in 13ish min idle and in 14s at revs. If in the 12s at idle, try at 1900 rpm.

- Check stator

- 1. Pull connector apart. Set meter to resistance. Check pin to pin, 3 yellow wires, A to B, B to C, C to A. What’s  the numbers? 3 separate readings --Should be less than 1.0 ohms.  (Engine off)

- 2. Check continuity from each A,B,C pin to ground, -- -should be infinity - nada nothing. no continuity.  --   3 separate checks. (Engine off, again connector is apart)

- 3. Crank it back up. Do another pin to pin thing, but set meter on AC volts. idle and 5000 rpms. What's da numbers? Should start 15 -20ish and climb 50ish and more.  Again – 3 readings, connector still apart.

- Repeat hot.

This quick list will catch the obvious stuff, but if you need to dig deeper check this chart.

http://www.electrosp...ing-diagram.pdf

Everyhing checks out besides 13-14 volts at the battery when running.have the 20-60 on all the yellow wires and around less than an ohm

Guess I'll try a r/r
Thanks for all the help guys
Now where to buy a r/r. dealer here wants $202.00
And seems like it has to come from japan by foot
Is there any good aftermarket ones out there?

What are you seeing at the battery when the bike is running?  Is there any difference in DC voltage when the RR is connected vs when it isn't?

Rick's Motorsports has a pretty good reputation, I think they go about $100.  Electrosport DOES NOT have a good reputation. 

Make sure that your 30 amp main fuse has spotless "blades " on it , and I would also recommend  coating them with "Oxguard"-- an anti oxidant paste.If there is a bad (high resistance) connection here, it will cause the fuse ( the plastic part) to melt, and may or may not break electrical contact.(happened to me)

GL,

Jeff

BTW, the main fuse is in the starter solenoid assembly.

J

Yes there is certainly some signs of heat at that connector.not so bad though I'm just going to pinch the termials alittle tighter
No difference in voltage plugged in or unplugged

Have 20-60 acv on yel wires at the r r connector
No difference in voltage at batery plugged in or unplugged

Have 20-60 acv on yel wires at the r r connector

Everyhing checks out besides 13-14 volts at the battery when running.have the 20-60 on all the yellow wires and around less than an ohm
Guess I'll try a r/r
Thanks for all the help guys
Now where to buy a r/r. dealer here wants $202.00
And seems like it has to come from japan by foot
Is there any good aftermarket ones out there?

http://wiremybike.com is run by VFRD member Tightwad. Good guy to deal with and highly recommended. I had the recent misfortune to need a new r/r and VFRness. On my '95 I needed a longer bolt to mount it on the frame. The second mount point (fixed threaded stud on frame) was too short to be used other than as a pivot point. Pic here in my gallery: http://www.vfrdiscus...20130505-01422/

thanks for the link

i wonder why the rr at wiremybike is cheaper than the one at http://ricksmotorspo...TBIb25WRlI3NTBG

Another good alternate kit -

www.roadstercycle.com

thanks for the link
i wonder why the rr at wiremybike is cheaper than the one at http://ricksmotorspo...TBIb25WRlI3NTBG

Manufacturers don't like to compete with their dealer network. I bought a Powerlet heated jacket cheaper through Wire My Bike than with Powerlet. In fact, they were cheaper than any other online store too that I checked too.

The VFRness from wiremybike.com is no brainer,  I wish I had done it sooner,

i wonder why the rr at wiremybike is cheaper than the one at http://ricksmotorspo...TBIb25WRlI3NTBG

I wonder what the difference is between the OEM €170 VFR750 R/R and the OEM XL125, VT750 etc. R/R (SH691-12) that cost me €70 at the dealer and is still doing an excellent job after more than 90k km.

i wonder why the rr at wiremybike is cheaper than the one at http://ricksmotorspo...TBIb25WRlI3NTBG

I wonder what the difference is between the OEM €170 VFR750 R/R and the OEM XL125, VT750 etc. R/R (SH691-12) that cost me €70 at the dealer and is still doing an excellent job after more than 90k km.

I'm not the best at math, but it looks to be about 100 Euros.  :goofy:

:tongue: :laugh:

Ordered rr from wiremybike
Went with air shipping
I live in ont canada any idea how long that might take?