A Little Deeper Into Pair.

The valve reeds don't keep the cylinders insulated, why would they?

They are there to block the combusted gases to get back into the airbox.

As the exhaust is combined at the cat anyway, why insulate them?

Each cylinder has it's own outlet valves and they are closed on turn anyway.

Have you noticed this? There is no air-pump to let air flow from the airbox to the reeds.

Also the tubes are not made for high temps or pressure.

It's my opinion that the combusted air is pushed out by the cylinder, then reach the reed (that closes because of the pressure) it follows it path to the cat.

However, because of the combined pipes at the cat, the other pipe to cylinder no2 is getting under-pressure, so it sucks in air from the pairing and that waits there until the outlet-vavle opens to press combusted air out.

That mixture goes in the direction of the reed (that closes on it's turn) and follows it's way to the cat.

Then reed 1 opens and air is sucked into exhaust 1 etc...

I really believe your blocking (either plates or before) was leaking hot combustion air into the pairing-system or passing your reed somehow and made it melt.

Maybe the reed on 1 cylinder was never placed properly and melted because of passing gases.

So in my opinion the reed malfunctioned somehow even before the blocking, but just 1 side. Maybe mounted wrongly or not sealed enough at the factory.

It happens things go wrong, that is what warranty is for when they leave the factory.

I do not believe the blocking of the pairing (when done properly) is causing it to melt.

The cap sealing the valve cover port was in perfect condition and 100% air tight.

All the reed valves were installed correctly.

Did get out the volt meter and check those voltages from the PAIR connector like I asked?  I'm really curious if you have PAIR activation with throttle off idie.

You never answered my question about the exhaust.

Nor did you show any pictures of the melting.

I know the paring mod works and works good in combination with the flapper-mod.

I have done it on several bikes and all bikes improved handling and low RPM riding.

Why are you twisting and turning about the pairing being the problem of your melting?

Also you never explained why the reed should separate the cylinders.

I'm far more curious to know why you insist the pairing-mod should be the problem.

Answer those and I will start measuring for you tomorrow.

My VFR800Fi (2000) didn't melt, nor did my sons CBR1000RR (2006) and both run better then ever before.

So why did yours melt?

You never answered my question about the exhaust.

Nor did you show any pictures of the melting.

I know the paring mod works and works good in combination with the flapper-mod.

I have done it on several bikes and all bikes improved handling and low RPM riding.

Why are you twisting and turning about the pairing being the problem of your melting?

Also you never explained why the reed should separate the cylinders.

I'm far more curious to know why you insist the pairing-mod should be the problem.

Answer those and I will start measuring for you tomorrow.

My VFR800Fi (2000) didn't melt, nor did my sons CBR1000RR (2006) and both run better then ever before.

So why did yours melt?

The plate with the melted seal was put back in because the parimeter seal was fine and that's what I needed for the block plate to work.  I will remove it tomorrow and take a picture.  In the mean time here is a picture of the reed valves.  The set on the left were the leaking ones.

[image: DSCN2491a]
DSCN2491a
Reed valves.  Set on the left was from the front head.  The seal on the plate was warped from heat and leaking.
  Though the exhaust back and forth won't enter the cylinder, as you stated, it could create turbulence in the exhaust flow, but more importantly, hot exhaust traveling back and forth thru the middle of the cylinder is something that needs to be avoided.   The PAIR only works at idle, and only when the bike is below normal operating temp.  Blocking it makes has no effect since the control valve is closed under throttle.   It's just a sugar pill.  You think your grand idea made a difference, but it doesn't.   Sorry I didn't respond sooner but I thought you had taken the measurements and went away.   Don't bother measuring the circuit.  I'll nook up a 12v led to the PAIR connector start the bike and shoot a video and show when the valve operates.  Then maybe we can put this silly PAIR blocking thing to bed for good.

Those look bad.

But I think I worded my question wrongly, are you using an after market exhaust-pipe or still the stock one?

As I'm using a DAM pipe and I was unable to ride at 3~4 rpm without hearing loads of pops and the bike had hickups at 50km/h or less.

With both modifications in place it simply runs far better, the hickups where so bad that my wife was banging me with her helmet at those speeds.

After making both mods, she's no longer banging me. I do not call that change a sugar pill.

However, the stock exhause pipe masks the pairing and flapper a great deal, people only notice it when fitting something else.

Mine:

[image: image_1628.jpg]

As for the LED, that is a great idea, I will connect one to my connector somewhere this week and have a spin with it.

Maybe you should buy her some roses???  :goofy:

 she's no longer banging me.

As for the LED, that is a great idea, I will connect one to my connector somewhere this week and have a spin with it.

Good, now I don't have to waste anymore of my time.

Hey, I saw online that air filters are just to keep intake noise down.  As long as you use a good oil filter, you can remove the air filter and gain top end horse power.  There's also power gains in running 0w-20 oil, you just have to change it every other ride.

Air filters are just to keep intake noise down?

Now that IS funny!!

Love to see how the air intake system deals with Christmas beetles for example.. and we could then assume that Marc Marquez' motogp bike doesn't use an air filter... I'll be removing my K&N then 'cause I actually dig that intake sound.. reminds me of a supercharged motor!!

:ph34r:

Maybe you should buy her some roses???  :goofy:

 she's no longer banging me.

Kind of gives PAIR blocking a whole new meaning.

Maybe he shouldn't have disconnected her flapper.

How good does the oil filter need to be if I want to remove the air filter because I want more horsepower and noisy air intake while I am running canola oil?

Maybe you should buy her some roses???  :goofy:

she's no longer banging me.

 
Kind of gives PAIR blocking a whole new meaning.
 
Maybe he shouldn't have disconnected her flapper.

Why? The flapper stays in the middle the last time I checked after a few KM's.
And as said, she doesn't bang me after the mods, in fact she hardly moves at all during the ride.

And as said, she doesn't bang me after the mods, in fact she hardly moves at all during the ride.

I think it's because your not hitting the sweet spot.  If you could hit it, she'd be moving alot more.

And as said, she doesn't bang me after the mods, in fact she hardly moves at all during the ride.

I think it's because your not hitting the sweet spot.  If you could hit it, she'd be moving alot more.

LOL... 

:lurk:

Nothing worse than a dead bang...having to do all of the work yourself sucks.

still, if she smoothed out at 3-4k I would say it is a good mod.

Nothing worse than a dead bang...having to do all of the work yourself sucks.

still, if she smoothed out at 3-4k I would say it is a good mod.

Come on, anything under 5K is just mailing it in.