My Vfr 750 Project < Lots Of Questions >

Ok so lets start off, over a year ago I picked up this bike to learn how to ride, I snagged it dirt cheap needing some work. This was a project bike probably from a member off of this site.

That's ok I am a project kind of guy, well it would of been ok if I had a clue about bikes in general haha.

So, with that being said, I rode it for some time, learned to ride and since owned a 09 r6, in turn sold that bike and still have the VFR.

The VFR sat for 5 months or so, I went outside 2 days ago and started looking the old girl over. Pulled it off the trailer I had it sitting on changed the battery put some fresh fuel in it and fired right up.

The guy I bought it from sent me a list of all the conversion & mods done on the bike, those were on a phone that got smashed at work.

I have been reading this site off and on since I picked up the bike, incredible things I've read & seen here.

SO, what I am asking from this community of excellent guys, (Inspired by Andy, as I did'nt want to just annoy him in PM's) is what do I have here, let's play guess a part. Haha, thanks to everyone who chips in I greatly appreciate it.

I'd like to know what is what on this bike.

~~Thing I need to get done ~~

The fairings ~ I was told the fairings need to be 08-11 CBR1000rr

I need to get a headlight mounted ~ Will I be custom fitting something here? Or will a 08-11 1000 light fit?

Need a guage cluster ~ After speaking with ApexAndy, believe im going to throw a Koso cluster on here

It's spitting oil ~ I'll post a picture below

Rear brake ~ After I post this im going to go look at this and see what needs to be done here. The guy told me I'd need to build a bracket for this. I havent even put together an Idea #1 I dont do wheelies so front brake is fine, 2 been in a temporary house until about 2 weeks ago, so now I have a garage to start doing things.

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It's spitting oil here, I assume this just has a gasket around the case? What's it called clutch cover gasket or something?

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well yeah thats a fiberglass 1000rr rear fairing but its not oem. The swing arm is from a different bike. The gasket you need is real cheap and easy to fix. I do not suggest a Koso gauge unless its real cheap (50$ or under). You can mount any car gauge up to that bike from 2002 and up. I have an 09 600rr gauge cluster on mine and everything works perfect except speedometer is off but I just need a speedohealer.

Welcome NoobMaskim

Someone has put quite a lot of work into the bones of that bike. Forks look to be Suzuki or Kawasaki - who both use Tokico calipers. Swingarm is definitely 1997-era CBR900RR. Shock appears to be CBR929.

I'd be looking for late model CBR1000RR fairings/headlight to finish it. But first thing to do is make sure all those mods have been done safely, no offence to the builder of the bike but you are putting a lot of faith in his work every time you throw a leg over it. Hopefully he'll stick his (her?) head in the door and give you some info.

I reckon that bike could be turned into something very special indeed. Excellent start for a Frankenviffer.

In the "oil spitting" pic, is the oil in question that looks like coffee with cream? If so, that could be not positive.

What do you plan doing with the bike? If you wanted to make a SF a la Andy, then we can forgo the fairings. But having some idea of what the goal is would be helpful.

In the meantime, a good scrub down is in order. Clean bikes are easier to work on and easier to diagnose.

what bracket is needed for the rear brake? I don't see a lever or calipers.

And I'd rattle can that exhaust hanger real quick.

All real good info, what is the not good, because it's NOT GOOD as in yes that what was spitting out!

As for the guy who I bought it from, lost his info on the phone that broke with all the info on the bike!

mk2davis

In the "oil spitting" pic, is the oil in question that looks like coffee with cream? If so, that could be not positive.

What do you plan doing with the bike? If you wanted to make a SF a la Andy, then we can forgo the fairings. But having some idea of what the goal is would be helpful.

In the meantime, a good scrub down is in order. Clean bikes are easier to work on and easier to diagnose.

what bracket is needed for the rear brake? I don't see a lever or calipers.

And I'd rattle can that exhaust hanger real quick.

The bike sat for awhile, could water of got in the oil from where it was leaking or is this plain out blown head gasket?

Another edit, the oil is not milky on the dipstick.

As for the rear brake, not sure what will fit it he threw a box of parts with it couple levers in there a caliper & a master bled ready to go but not exactly sure what his thoughts were for the rear brake. Mosquitos got me to quit before I could get any real idea of what was going on. Next month ill have the garage so things will get better for now it's under a tarp outside.

The guy that started that project was definitely a member here, I remember reading the build thread. He moved on to a 5th gen project I think?

I'm quite certain the front end is CBR929 or 954.

I never seen a 5th gen in his garage. Seen a SF Buel

erbilabuc

well yeah thats a fiberglass 1000rr rear fairing but its not oem. The swing arm is from a different bike. The gasket you need is real cheap and easy to fix. I do not suggest a Koso gauge unless its real cheap (50$ or under). You can mount any car gauge up to that bike from 2002 and up. I have an 09 600rr gauge cluster on mine and everything works perfect except speedometer is off but I just need a speedohealer.

Why not a Koso?

And NM, that has the makings of a great bike - as long as the mods (welds, etc)have been done properly

I love that seat, too. I wanted one for my 5th gen, but couldn't find a cheap one with a subframe.

Any advice for a website that doesnt use paypal as payment form (long story with them jerks) to buy a gasket etc, assuming honda doesnt carry this stuff anymore? America

you can make a gasket with permatex.

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the forks are honda 954.

use just about any fairing you want. if you like it it can be modded. :cool:

Seat

keef

erbilabuc

well yeah thats a fiberglass 1000rr rear fairing but its not oem. The swing arm is from a different bike. The gasket you need is real cheap and easy to fix. I do not suggest a Koso gauge unless its real cheap (50$ or under). You can mount any car gauge up to that bike from 2002 and up. I have an 09 600rr gauge cluster on mine and everything works perfect except speedometer is off but I just need a speedohealer.

Why not a Koso?

And NM, that has the makings of a great bike - as long as the mods (welds, etc)have been done properly

I love that seat, too. I wanted one for my 5th gen, but couldn't find a cheap one with a subframe.

Sad to say about your seat, it's going to go some day. Only bolted on 1 side, other side is broke.

So I was digging around in this box of goodies that came with the bike, I think I figured out what was going on with it.

First off mounted on the bike is a small bracket that just has a foot pedal, has no where for a brake spring etc has 2 holes to mount the piston assembly. I see why this is currently on there

Here is a picture of a 95 VFR bracket with the brake pedal on my bike and the reason it's not made up =P

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Hmm, I've seen oil like that come out the breather tubes or collect on the inside of an oil level sight glass (aka milky sight glass). If the bike sat for some time, there is the definite possibility that temperature swings caused some condensation in the crankcase. When you took the bike for a ride, the engine got warm enough to boil the offending condensation out of the crankcase. I would give the bike a good cleaning and see if the oil returns. Not sure if your breather is still connected to the airbox, but it may have burped some oil/water out onto the engine case.

No it's spitting clean out the seal when I rev the engine.

Hey, you posted up a thread! Sweet.

Looks like members have already filled you in on most of what we can see in the pics. The front forks definitely look like 929/954, but brake callipers look to be from a different bike. As are front discs. Front wheel might be stock VFR? Rear wheel looks like a 929/954 wheel? I think the rear headers have been modded to fit through the swing arm. The right rearset (foot peg assembly) that is pictures on your bike on the previous page is the stock rearset without the brake master cylinder and lever. Though it looks like the swing arm might be getting in the way of those parts? I think the above rearset if from a 3rd gen.

The CBR600 or 1000 gauge swap can be done… although as mentioned the speedo will be really far off, and speedohealers aren't cheap. So that adds to the cost.

Does your oil smell like fuel? It's possible your float/ needle valve has some debris allowing gas to leak into the engine. The creamy colored oil is unnerving. Perhaps condensation?

Like others have said… there's been a lot of work done to the bike, I would definitely be digging into it more to see how well they were done. Personally before thinking about fairings or other mods I would establish the bike is safe (not to mention regular maintenance items on an old bike that's been sitting).

Good luck, and a high five for getting that machine off the trailer and starting to give it some love :beer:

Edit: Just saw the video… First thing I would do is drain the oil and see what it looks like. It looks very thin, maybe from gas mixing in. Also, a new gasket might fix your leak, but if there are any cracks or even small scratches on the engine case or the side cover it could still leak. Lapping the surfaces flat again or using gasket maker will help you here.

Those were my next steps Andy, planned on draining the oil, ill be sure to check for scratches/leaks. I honestly think the oil is from that leak and from sitting under a tarp in weather. Im in lousiana so you know it rains every other day.

Cant wait for this garage to open so I can clean the damn thing out and get this bike inside and start tearing it down :wacko: should be an experience.

Edit: Plan on draining the oil and replacing the gasket. Got a headlight, gasket, gauge cluster ordered. will toy with those things. This back brake though, maybe I should just put on a stunt lever up front.

Got a partner who lives near, mechanic type. I'll just buy him beer, haha.

Wow, spitting out pretty good. I don't know if there are any pressurized oil passages in that vicinity, but I wouldn't think that the crankcase/clutch area would be pressurized enough to blast oil out like that. I would first investigate the breather system first cuz its cheap and easy. Just make sure that it is connected and not clogged. If the crankcase is becoming pressurized it could also indicate a lot of combustion blow-by (bad ring(s)). If the breather system checks out, the next thing I would do is a compression/leak-down test. If both check out good, I'd just buy a gasket and replace it. Lucky for you, Honda dealers should still have this part: 11394-MY7-000. It was also used on the Magna 750s through 2003.

apexandy

Does your oil smell like fuel? It's possible your float/ needle valve has some debris allowing gas to leak into the engine. The creamy colored oil is unnerving. Perhaps condensation?

Drained the oil and yes, it smells like fuel.

Right now im trying to figure out how to remove the tank and check the float/valve. I have forgot to turn the fuel valve off before could that be a reason? I was told the gas would end up on the ground after a bit, I walked back out and never seen gas on the ground but the valve was on, thought nothing of it.

I know the sending unit needs replaced. I do remember that.

that bracket for the rear brake I believe is off a 3rd gen vfr, not a fourth. Rear brake mount, how about a stock 900rr mount and line?

mcrwt644

that bracket for the rear brake I believe is off a 3rd gen vfr, not a fourth.

100% not 4th gen (1994-1997)

This is what is currently on the bike I see where the piston would mount on this but I don't see where a brake pedal would go and rotate or actuate. However.

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And this is the setup that fits the whole brake setup, piston mounts, brake pedal is setup on this with a spring and everything.

But there isnt enough room for it to swing down for the brake to work.

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mcrwt644

that bracket for the rear brake I believe is off a 3rd gen vfr, not a fourth. Rear brake mount, how about a stock 900rr mount and line?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/99-Honda-CBR900RR-CBR-900RR-CBR900-Right-Peg-and-Rear-Brake-Assembly-Y4-5-/171150751114?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27d961358a&vxp=mtr

I found this, looks reasonably close to what I need.

Yes, that is a 3rd-gen footpeg bracket. It should be interchangeable with the 4th-gen bracket--at least that's what I believed when I bought a set of 4th-gen brackets for my 3rd-gen! I have not managed to test them, however.

The problem you have is that the swing arm you've got on there is wider than the OEM one, and the way the exhaust was modified to clear it appears to have made the use of the OEM rear brake impossible. Oops.

There's no other way to say it, but the guy who routed the exhaust pipe that way was...not paying attention. :wacko:

Rear swing arm is a 900RR unit, so assuming they didn't change bits around, the '99 900RR rear brake pedal, caliper bracket and caliper you linked to above would fit--but the footpeg bracket is likely not going to fit. I recall many years ago trying to find a rearset that would fit my '93 VFR750FP and measured several of the usual CBR suspects only to find that the bolt spacing was different. But you'd need the caliper stuff anyway.

If you're not willing to get a new exhaust link pipe made, then you're going to have a very hard time fitting a conventional rear brake pedal and master cylinder. Maybe that's why the PO never did it--too hard.

Ciao,

Could run a cable from the pedal to a remote mounted master?

900RR footrests are a direct bolt on for the 4th gen. I have done it myself. Direct, as in, direct. No filing or re-drilling or "it's close so just hammer that bolt in".

Also, you may be able to space the footrest away from the frame using custom spacers and longer bolts to clear the pipe? Maybe?

SEBSPEED

900RR footrests are a direct bolt on for the 4th gen. I have done it myself. Direct, as in, direct. No filing or re-drilling or "it's close so just hammer that bolt in".

Also, you may be able to space the footrest away from the frame using custom spacers and longer bolts to clear the pipe? Maybe?

My thoughts exactly on spacing it out, ill just get some pipe annd bring it out about a inch or so, then find some longer bolts.

Ok guys small update on my plans with this bike ~~ First off THANK YOU ALL for the information you have provided for me.

I have ordered new gasket picked up some for-a-gasket going to juice the original gasket up JUST A HAIR to be sure.

I am going to replace that run it awhile at least a month while I get my garage cleaned out (eventually to tear the bike down to clean it).

If the gas get back in the oil i'll know I have a issue.

This bike sat for months in the weather, I forgot to turn off the cutoff valve for the fuel several times for as long as an hr. (not sure if it was the cause or not)?

I have ordered the stock 900rr bracket & brake assembly, this LOOKS very close and as Seb said ill throw a spacer in there to bring it out a hair if needed.

I have ordered a cbr1000rr light, this I am not sure im going to use. Really like the LSL Urban SF Light Andy has on his bike and a few other guys. Andys build when it was nearly finished all black and red sitting in the drive way i thought looked the best and may be a endgame for me. May make a interchangable 1000rr fairing style & a SF style to mix things up.

Anyone tell me the fork size, I believe we've come to the agreement these are 954rr forks? I've read 50mm, Confirm?

(Digi calipers in the mail)

So once I get the brake the light and gauges squared away gtg it should be around the time, I can get it tore down inspected, cleaned, painted and back together.

And a new subframe & seat as well.

900RR and 929RR footrests are NOT the same.

You need the 93-98 CBR900RR parts.

Come to think of it, I believe I have some spare VFR footrests that would work for you.

SEBSPEED

900RR and 929RR footrests are NOT the same.

You need the 93-98 CBR900RR parts.

Come to think of it, I believe I have some spare VFR footrests that would work for you.

Oops mistype meant ordered the 99 900rr footrest & brake assembly from the link above that we talked about. But as you say it's not going to work?

Mind throwing a picture up might take those off your hands if/when these dont work.

why not just run the pipe under the tail ? the swing arm has HUGE space for you run the exhaust through and then your foot peg problems are over.. :beer:

of course you will have to play with the tail then.. how ever it will look better . :lobby:

I personally like it on the side ;)

NoobMaskim

I personally like it on the side ;)

then chop the header pipe and add a proper that clears your foot peg.

youre making an awful lot of work for a 10 minute job. :unsure:

You're right. These were also thoughts I had going to pick up a welder soon and possibly do that if all else fails

Data point, 2007-2008 R1 footpegs also have the correct spacing to work on a 3rd or 4th Gen frame.

Edit, answered my own question =P (Search bar working as intended)

The Phantom

Data point, 2007-2008 R1 footpegs also have the correct spacing to work on a 3rd or 4th Gen frame.

the swing arm is the biggest obstacle you have.

these are R1 aftermarket rear sets on my 95

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I say do not buy a Koso because the Honda gauges will last longer exposed to sun and the wiring is simpler I think. I guess Id rather have a somewhat OEM part because they were cheaper and easier for me to find/replace.

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I've had an ace well ( cheap like a koso) on my vfr8 fighter for the last few years, it's been brilliant. Easy to wire up, too. The only let down is that it didn't have an in built temp sensor.

And what are those rearsets, NM? Ducti 996? Not many bikes have the brake lever separate from the rear set.

Bit of an update, I got my brake together and bled. It's a tight fit but works well. I got my 1000rr nose fairing & headlight in also 1 mid fairing. Once I get the other side and the inner fairing all that should go on like a glove or so I hope. And the next HUGE OBSTACLE. Will be wiring up my Koso gauge. Andy is going to love me bugging the shit out of him ;)

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Oh and a little road block. I changed the oil in it. Now my clutch wont engage, my son was playing with the shifter, but dont think that's the cause, believe I need to take the synthetic out (Read it's to slippery in a lot of cases) and put some rotella T dino 10w40 in it? Thoughts?

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Without getting too technical (I'm not the right person for that when it comes to oil) you definitely shouldn't run oil that has additives known to create issues with motorcycle clutches. Is the synthetic you installed motorcycle oil? It should be fine if it is. Even if it isn't, I find it strange your clutch won't engage… do you mean it struggles to engage fully (lots of slipping) or there is some sort of mechanical issue and no engine power is reaching the rear wheel??

It physically stalls out the clutch has excellent pressure.

Strip the clutch slave cylinder down and clean it up - new fluid might be enough, but if the piston seal in the slave looks suspect, put an overhaul kit through it, the kit is cheap.

Start by undoing the slave cylinder from the front sprocket cover (two bolts), then hold it over a bucket and pump the clutch till the piston falls into the bucket. Remove the master cylinder cap, drain the fluid, clean the master out with a rag (watch for the little stainless steel dooverlacker that sits over the outlet hole), then refill and bleed.

Thanks for the advice. That will be the next thing I do.

Just need to get rotella dino oil? 10w40?

NoobMaskim

Just need to get rotella dino oil? 10w40?

Yep ....

Well so far no good about to pull the slave apart

Can't get the piston to fall out

200lbs of air pressure should do it ..

Take the cap off the master cylinder and put a rag over it (in case it squirts fluid all over the place), then pump the clutch lever - the fluid will be pumped into the slave cylinder but not return to the master, and that should force the piston out. Just watch out for flying fluid, not good for eyes or paint - cover everything in rags.

We're talking about the piston on the slave correct? I did all that it'd come out half way and thats it

I didnt want to stick pliers on there for fear on damaging or knicking the smooth surface

Fluid side has rusted you mite as well pull it out with pliers. More then likely gonna have to replace it ..

I just replaced this thing very recently. when I popped it off the piston was pumping? Should it pump farther that half way, or what I thought was half way. Is this why my bike will grind & die as if the clutch needed bleeding, not sure the proper terminology .

Sounds like your master cylinder is toast . It should build enough pressure to pop it out .

pump it all the way out.. remove piston. polish the sucker with 4000 grit sandpaper. clean out the slave add a new ring seal

put back together. :beer:

It's not uncommon for the slave piston to stick. What usually happens is it will still move far enough to actuate the clutch, but it won't ever retract right back into the cylinder - so it always keeps some pressure on the clutch rod, and the clutch never fully engages and suffers premature wear.

It sticks due to lack of maintenance - the clutch hydraulic system sucks crap in a lot quicker than the brakes, and the fluid gets muddy, and being hydroscopic it holds water, and the water causes corrosion on the slave cylinder bore.

You have to get that piston out... try not to score the bore, but other than that, whatever it takes...

The Phantom

It's not uncommon for the slave piston to stick. What usually happens is it will still move far enough to actuate the clutch, but it won't ever retract right back into the cylinder - so it always keeps some pressure on the clutch rod, and the clutch never fully engages and suffers premature wear.

It sticks due to lack of maintenance - the clutch hydraulic system sucks crap in a lot quicker than the brakes, and the fluid gets muddy, and being hydroscopic it holds water, and the water causes corrosion on the slave cylinder bore.

You have to get that piston out... try not to score the bore, but other than that, whatever it takes...

Ok so update. Got the slave out, used a rear brake master etc I had sitting in my spare parts that was partially bled, in less than a minute it popped out. So I suspected the master, which isnt stock, it has a clear bowl. (Giving you this information due to you giving me such thorough instructions) So i start looking over it, had a greasy liquid around the lever where the bolt goes through it. (Where it articulates?)

I suppose it could of been some spillage but it was greasy. So I take it apart, the booty from the piston isnt sitting on the push pole thing, I feel a thicker ring on the end of the boot and see where it looks like it should set on the pole so 2+2. Sorry for lack of terminology, first time here.

So, all in all, slave is cleaned little rust where the spring sets down inside of the slave nothing major.

The master is in pieces currently as im not sure how to get this booty to sit on right, its a right rascal for lack of other language.

Switchblade

Sounds like your master cylinder is toast . It should build enough pressure to pop it out .

Maybe?

Edit boot had a small rip at the bottom, ordered a rebuilt kit.

Good progress :fing02:

Ok so the guy before me took the fuel pump out and it's gravity fed now. I am getting gas in my oil somehow, I pulled the carb off and inspected and cleaned in today. The floats seemed very good, the carbs were in good shape.

He definitely cleaned them before I got the bike they looked good, all the jets were in order and clear etc.

None of the floats had gas in them, that eliminated a hole.

Should my next step be a compression test?

These 2 things are the last 2 of 3 big obstacles im facing to finish this bike, the last will be trimming up the wiring harness but thats on hold, we've got bigger issues ;).

I don't know if this is the issue or if there is more likely causes, but the needle valves and seats can get worn and cause issues… or even just a tiny bit of debris can get stuck in them.

For now, if you shut off the fuel when your bike is parked (if your fuel shutoff valve functions properly… I'm not sure mine is completely effective, based on small drips while having my tank off the bike) and the problem doesn't return you know either you fixed the issue, or narrowed it to the carbs. I think...

I held my tank up. Cut off works fine

I'm going to pull the carb again and recheck the floats. Also do a compression test

Need to replace my boots that the carb sits on hard as a rock and sync this bad boy

While you have the carbs out, remove the floats and needle valves and have a look in the valve ports. Make sure they're clean.

If it were my bike, I would go ahead and put new needle valves in. They are cheap, and if you don't know how old the current ones are, just chalk it up to preventive maintenance.

Believe my next step is a Compression test. Will probably do that today I think some piston rings are out

So here are the plugs the test was a bust have to order the right adapter. These all seem good to me by looking at a plug chart. Comments?

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I mean Good as in all similar. Experienced advice and comments needed

the ceramic part of the plug should be tea colored.. a nice tan..

this is too rich..

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this is too lean

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this is just right!

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I know the bike needs rejetted & balanced. Been knowing but that's on the back burner at the moment.

Love the pictures haha, we're so much alike in taste haha.

But seriously, I would know if I had a piston ring or something out correct?

My worries are about the gas in my oil, if I can eliminate the engine we'll assume it's the carburetor and I can rest easy.

Carb rebuild kit is in the mail and getting replaced anyhow, but just in the mean time tinkering and elimination.

dude this is a VFR

the plugs arnt THAT bad.

drain the oil and clean the carbs and if you keep it gravity feed add a remote inline gas cut off valve

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It has a built in petcock.

gll429

dude this is a VFR

the plugs arnt THAT bad.

drain the oil and clean the carbs and if you keep it gravity feed add a remote inline gas cut off valve

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Dude I'm glad you're knowledgeable because I'm not. Learned tons in the past week working on this bike. Would be no where without this community. Thanks for your comment. I have gas in my oil and it was pure cream 2 days after I changed it.

Ok with that stuff being said. I'm going to sum this up to being the needle valves.

that would be my guess. if it been sitting for a while the float needles are hardned or stress shaped by now. and need time to seat themselves. or just get new ones...

oh and a pm sent. :wink:

The only way petrol can get into the oil is if it leaks from the carbs through the intake tracts and down past the piston rings.

The rings themselves can't be considered a culprit so don't worry about that.

The petrol in the oil is due to leaks within the carbs. Sort that, and you're sorted.

SEBSPEED

It has a built in petcock.

which is a pain the butt to get to.

add the one in the pic and it can be hidden behind a vent hole for easy on /off

What they said

Sounds like a plan.

Thanks for the suggestion. I'll be updating soon with my progress.

Current state of the bike

I think you missed the pic :P

NoobMaskim

Current state of the bike

mcrwt644

I think you missed the pic :P

3M Invisible Cloaking wrap, it's all the rage with the kids these days

Phone won't let me upload after I attach the photo. Hard to explain

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I'll be taking the carbs back out today and replacing the needle valve and installing the remote petcock. Tail fairings and light should be in soon and that'll finish her up. Then sometime will tear down and get some paint

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Also note. Carbs were clean but since tearing them apart last time oil is clean still

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Good progress man!

Thanks buddy. Couldn't of done it without this community

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Takes forever to get anything done when you work 70hrs a week

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Doing some more work got the inners in today. Not everything fit flush but it is what it is for now

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Just to confirm 929 954 triple tree top? kid lost my keys need a new ignition. [image: 9una8e3e.jpg]

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Pull the ignition and take it to a locksmith. Or, pull the ignition and use the code stamped on it to order new keys from a Honda dealer.

If you're set on buying a second ignition, yes, that is a 929/954 top triple. A VFR ignition will bolt up to it.

pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav=item.view&id=281282725161 that'll be probably cheapest.

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Thanks Seb

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Edit called honda. It'll be 35 bucks for a new key

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Got a guy from work who does airbrushing. Thinking flat black with blue monster energy for the tank

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Well most the tail is made up now, should have the key in today. Looks a little crooked due to the bolts being loose until im ready to button everything up, rain was coming so I wrapped her back up and went back inside ;)

Edit: Eliminator kit w/ integrated blinkers in the tail light = win ;)

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Bad news. Bike sat over night and today I started it up to do some checking and it started making a spinning noise. While trying to crank. In this sequence. Crank crank spin. Try again same thing. Finally got it started battery almost died once warmed up a bit checked it again no problems. So after a bit of research I believe my starter clutch is going out? Any insight is appreciated.

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It was cold this morning couldn't of been the battery really it's brand new

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Edit

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sounds like it is the starter clutch. relatively easy fix. Pull the clutch side engine cover and you will see a unit right in front of the crank. It'll have timing marks on it. That is your starter clutch. They are notorious for going out on these things. I have three vfrs all in need of them right now. Do a search on google for the repair sequence. There was a guy who did a good write up on the other vfr forum.

here you go

http://vfrworld.com/forums/showthread.php/22135-Starter-Clutch-Repair-VFR750-With-Pictures

Thanks buddy. Honda still carry these ? Bit late to call.

Also found the selling list, took some digging but I thought I had lost it. Turns out I saved it so well I lost it, if that makes sense.

Entire front end is from a 2003 CBR954RR with RC51 front wheel. Out back, the swingarm and wheel are from a 95 CBR900RR, and the shock is from a 03 CBR954RR. Bodywork and seat/subframe is 08+ CBR1000RR. Custom headers I built myself. New continental contisport tires as well as new 520 O-ring chain and sprockets. It needs: the wiring harness cleaned up and tucked away (reduced to the bare minimum would be best) a custom bracket for the rear brake side rear set to mount the rear brake master cylinder to, and if you want to ride it on the street legally, a headlight. It cranks up and runs, but is cold-natured until warmed up, it really needs re-jetted on a dyno once the rest is sorted for optimum power.

Also note, manual clutch bleeding ~~ I am probably not the first to do this but, clutch master and lever come in today. So I installed it and started bleeding the old school way but after a good 30 minutes that got old and I suspected something was wrong, as I always do when usually it isnt haha.

So when I believed something was wrong what I did was pulled the slave out filled it up with fluid, had my lines and reservoir filled already and the line sitting higher than the reservoir. Put it all together and bled it less than 2 minutes.

So next time im going to disconnect the lines poor fluid down the reservoir until it comes out rinse and repeat. Not sure if I got lucky but it sure beats the hell out of old school bleeding, and im too cheap to buy a mityvac. Really need to hit the hardware store and just make a back bleeder. But with this new found technique hell with it.

Also small video I did for a few friends who ride kind of shows what I got left to do. My paddock stands come in today, Think I should drill and tap for the rear or just all thread it? Going to get that read wheel off and cleaned up.

Your passenger pegs are mounted wrong.

yes, honda still has the parts you need for the starter clutch. Best price I've seen for the most common part is from Part zilla at $115.

mcrwt644

yes, honda still has the parts you need for the starter clutch. Best price I've seen for the most common part is from Part zilla at $115.

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mcrwt644

yes, honda still has the parts you need for the starter clutch. Best price I've seen for the most common part is from Part zilla at $115.

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I'm impressed that you got the starter clutch in one! Well, FWIW, you can probably ride for a while with a cracked one. The one on my 3rd-gen only screeches occasionally.

Ciao,

The bike ran well though

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mcrwt644

I had an f3 that was gravity fed. It would rev fine, but it wouldn't run for cr@p otherwise in any gear. I prefer what the engineers at Honda set the bike up with vs what we may come up with unless we have degrees in such fields. AKA, they know best in most situations

and boiled the water. Rear 2 were cold and I could grab them. Pulled the coil packs and put the meter on then. One read 3.2 ohms other was 3.0 ohms awesome. reconnected them and put the spark plug in 1 at a time started the bike and arced top the frame. Other arced to the frame .

Suppose I should fill the carbs and check drainage next be back soon with an update.

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Also note the plugs both had oily looking gas residue on them when I pulled them

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OK other small update I promised. The carbs produced fuel out of the bowl drains

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you may need to go back into the carbs and check out how the rear ones look. Verify the slow jets and all are cleared out and all. If you have spark, you are 1/3 of the way there. X off the coils. Clean the plugs. I'd suspect something in the rear carbs for sure now. I know how much of a pain the v4 carbs can be, I've cleaned my one set off my 95 now three times because it sat for so long. Make sure there isn't any crap in the tank. Verify that the fuel filter isn't clogged and also check the fuel pump for crap. I couldn't believe how much crap got through all three levels into my carbs. My bet is after you give the rear carbs a good cleaning (btw, I'd do all the carbs over again and very thoroughly since you are there) you will be back in business. Keep us up to date.

One other point, make sure the fuel mixture screws passages are clear, but be forewarned, there is a small o ring, and spring in there. Be careful. fwiw, I put my mixture screws at 2.25 turns out from bottom after I scribe a notch in them so I can use a straight screwdriver on them...damn Honda and their D ring!

re reading your post, I see where the two rear plugs were fouled. Make sure that the needle seats and needles themselves are clean and that the needle valves are functioning properly. You could be getting too much gas going by the needles. Also inspect the floats for cracks or gunk that has collected on them.

IDK how many people have done this, but I've found that mothers polish on a tooth brush works wonders for bringing back the color of the floats and takes off crap. But be careful to ensure you clean the float off with carb cleaner afterwards and ensure no residue from the polish remains or you'll be right back in there cleaning again. I wait until the float is completely dry so I can see if there is any polish left on there I can brush away.

I ordered some new boots when those come in ill be giving an update after another thorough cleaning. I never had the carb jet wire set or anything. The jets were clean never checked the seats.

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just remember, clean is a relative term. even if they 'appear' clean, it doesn't mean they are.

I'm understanding that now lol

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Make sure the rear coils are grounded properly.

There is something else special about how the rear coils are fired, but can't remember what it is right now. I think the rear coils and fuel pump are tied together somehow. If you went to gravity feed and removed fuel pump and relay, you may have broken that circuit which would cause the bike to run on front 2 cylinders only.

Check that out before you kill yourself over the carbs.

Excellent I had the rear coils floating in the battery tray. I'll run a frame jumper to the bracket and see if that fixes the issue

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SEBSPEED

Make sure the rear coils are grounded properly.

There is something else special about how the rear coils are fired, but can't remember what it is right now. I think the rear coils and fuel pump are tied together somehow. If you went to gravity feed and removed fuel pump and relay, you may have broken that circuit which would cause the bike to run on front 2 cylinders only.

Check that out before you kill yourself over the carbs.

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Because the spark plug did spark to the frame

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