I have just tried a '99 Vfr800 at a dealer, and I didnt Think the brakes was so good, I had to press hard to brake decently, I really thought that they should be better. Are there any problems with the brakes on a rc46-1 ?
The bike ran really good, engine was fantastic :-) and the Sound amazing ;-)
It had run 57.000 km, is this to much ? Any worries at this km ?
Brakes are pretty darned good. I would insist on the dealer fixing the problem before purchasing or at least get a price reduction so you can repair yourself.
No worries about the km's...it's only just broken in!
I would also pay particular attention to the electrical charging system & check the stator to regulator/rectifier & rectifier to battery wiring for any signs of burning. Not a problem per se, but needs to be addressed.
Somewhere on the web is a list of braking performances from a multitude of motorcycles and the 5 Gen VFR was one with a very good stopping distance. Sorry I don't have a link for it with the proof. Basically the bike should be given the once over and as mentioned, keep on eye on the electrical connections. These are really great machines and when setup and cared for properly, they should perform and last you a long time.
as for brakes / braking power, I don't know what are you comparing it to in first place, what you are riding now or been riding?
I have a '00 VFR800 and brakes are pretty decent on it, and works pretty well even at high speeds. but to compare it with the brakes on my friend's '08 CBR1000RR or my previous '06 CBR600RR, they are definitely superior and can literally brake with one finger touch
I have had a '97 Blackbird, '98 Firestorm and they had better breaking then the 800 i tried.... Think there is something wrong with this one, because all my other honda's have had good brakes. Did not see the brake fluid colour.
It's definitely a pain in the ass. I paid to have it done the first time. Since I saw how it is done, I think I can do it. I have never done it before, but the key appears to be "take your time". If you have a buddy to help keep the reservoir full as you flush the lines, even better.
I never noticed my bad head bearing unless I took my hands off the grips. Then it would start to wobble. Put it on the center stand so that the front wheel is off the ground. Slowly turn left and right to feel for any notches or flat spots. And do it very slowly. If it needs to be replaced, I really liked the tapered bearings. Some prefer OEM. But I felt as the the tapered ones steer better.
Bleeding the brakes on a VFR is difficult because of the DCBS system ?
Its not impossibly hard, if you have done any brake bleeding before, you can do it on vfr, its just your bleeding 4 circuits instead of 2, service manual makes it easy and illustrate how to bleed each individually.
You said press on the brake,so I assume you mean the rear brake pedal. I've always thought the rear was a bit weak but just chalked it up to the linked system. It's not like standard brake where you can lock the rear wheel. That said the front is more than adequate for serious stopping. Get the dealer to do new pads and fluid when you make the deal.
Hi BrianSPC, the standard Honda pads don't have a lot of bite, but EBC HH pads do, so if you're looking for some more power that's what I would change. I'd echo the comments here about the back brake, it feels very gentle, but the front brakes (with the EBC pads) are great. And 57000km is nothing for the VFR.
Can I check the problems with the regulator and the melted wires, if I remove the seat ?
You should take a look at the connector between the alternator and regulator/rectifier and the between the reg/rec and the battery. Both are on the left side of the subframe.
I've read that the R/R fails (happens to lots of Hondas) and can cause overloading of either the alt or battery and a symptom is heat damage to the wiring.
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End of thread · 22 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 14 Jul 2017