1999 Vfr800 Project

Hello Everyone,

Thought I would share my project with you and hope that you can benefit from some of the things I will be doing. I would also ask that if you have any input or suggestions please feel free to comment.

I recently picked up a 1999 VFR800 with only 10,000km for $1400.00. Unfortunately the previous owner laid it down on the left side and then parked it for 9-10 years outside under a BBQ cover. It did start and ran a little rough, I am hoping that a new set of plugs and fuel injector cleaning will help.

I was fortunate that a gentleman purchased this from the BBQ cover guy and spent some time going over the bike. He ordered some parts did some cleaning and then did not have time to complete the project.

So...to start, the bike needs a lot of TLC:

I have already started some of the work listed below and will post pictures following this intro.

- The body will require some work, front fairing scraped left side, left signal light needs to be replaced, rear seat cowl cracked and damaged left side, left engine cover has a broken mount and the gas tank has a baseball sized dent. Some body filler, plastic weld, elbow grease and a fresh coat of paint will be needed...I have considered a new set although can't justify $700.00 for the set.

- Front and Rear Brake calipers are stiff, so I will do a rebuild or at least strip them down, inspect and reassemble. The brake fluid is dark but not milky or clumpy, will flush all the fluid

- The steering stem is a little rough so I will inspect and replace bearings if needed

- Front and rear rims are oxidizing and will need to be stripped and powder coated

- Front tire needs to be replaced, rear tire is questionable and may replace due to the age...no cracks visible and decent tread..

- Brake rotors do not have any grooves but are colored from pad wear...will try to sand them or use scotch brite pads to shine them up...any suggestions?

- Forks have some spot rust on the chrome tubes but it doesn't look like any pitting, forks are not leaking but dust seals are cracked from age will need to be replaced, Fork bottoms are oxidized and need to be repainted

- Gauge faces are cloudy from sitting for so long. Will try polishing with headlight restore kit

- Radiator hose clamps are rusted - I will replace all of them ..just for looks :-), hoses look OK and just need a good cleaning

- Radiator fluid is clean, although it's probably a good idea to flush the system..was considering to remove the water pump to inspect..still undecided

- Rear axle and chain tensioner assembly have some corrosion so I will strip and clean the whole assembly while I have it apart

Some Parts I already ordered..(wow!! Amazing how the dollars add up) :sad:

- Mirrors L&R

- Gas cap

- Brake Pads

- Brake and clutch levers

- Standard Headlight bulbs

- handle grips

- full bolt kit for body panels

- Zero Gravity double bubble wind screen

- Front Wheel bearings and seals

- Steering stem bearing and seal kit (All Balls)

- Fork seal kit

- Gas tank Seals

- Battery

- Front and Rear tires - Pirelli Diablo

- Mightyvac Brake Bleeder

- Plastifix (Plastic weld for fairings)

- new brake and clutch master cylinders (incl new levers)

- new chain

- all new brake line seals and new bleeders

- new wheel nuts

- new nuts for rear sprocket

- new axle nut and plastic plug

- dust seals for swing arm, dog bone and rear shock

- water pump seal

- new cush drive rubbers

- clutch slave seal kit

- new start/stop and headlight / horn switches

- new gas tank rubbers

- new turn signal and brake bulbs

- fork stop clips

- fork protectors

- all new dust seals for rear hub

- new bolts for brake calipers

- new spark plugs

- complete new decal set for tank, fairings and rear cowl

- new gear shift lever and rubber

- new coolant reservoir

- new clutch slave cylinder

- new leather stitched seat cover

- new upper front stay (oops, looked like it was bent)

- crankcase gasket

- new bar ends

- new rubber for footpegs

- new oil filter

- new collars and pin bolts for foot pegs (sliders)

- new rear brake switch and rear brake springs

-

If you have any suggestions or comments please share them

[image: post-31404-0-71218400-1413208992.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-10039000-1413209007.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-33517400-1413209022.jpg]

http://www.gomototrip.com/motocycle-fairings/vfr800-1998-2001/

You can try these guys for plastic but I have no experience with them .

I see decals on eBay a lot:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VFR-800i-Interceptor-1999-complete-decals-stickers-graphics-kit-adhesivi-800-set-/200979390301?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ecb4e1f5d&vxp=mtr

I know that the OEM decals are color-coded to match the factory paint in terms of the "background" on my 2000. These might be clear to allow the paint color to show through. Check with the seller to know for sure.

There's decals for the 2000 bikes as well - slightly different look to them but very similar.

I decided to start with the front end and work my way back.

Removed the forks and steering assembly. As per the pics you can see that the bearings are shot. I upgraded them to the All Balls upgrade kit which uses tapered bearings instead of OEM ball bearings. The old races were not difficult to knock out, just used a long screwdriver and a hammer. Installing the new races was also quite easy, I used the old races and a hammer with a short drift.

The forks were rough and needed a new paint job. I sanded them down using a 320 grit and used acetone to remove any grease or dust. I found a good match for paint "Rustoleum Hammered Silver" available in Canada at any big box store.

Switchblade

http://www.gomototrip.com/motocycle-fairings/vfr800-1998-2001/

You can try these guys for plastic but I have no experience with them .

Thanks Switchblade, I will take a look..appreciate it

ember1205

I see decals on eBay a lot:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VFR-800i-Interceptor-1999-complete-decals-stickers-graphics-kit-adhesivi-800-set-/200979390301?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ecb4e1f5d&vxp=mtr

I know that the OEM decals are color-coded to match the factory paint in terms of the "background" on my 2000. These might be clear to allow the paint color to show through. Check with the seller to know for sure.

There's decals for the 2000 bikes as well - slightly different look to them but very similar.

Thanks Ember, I have seen a few online as well, thanks for the link.

[image: post-31404-0-05386000-1413210474.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-04008400-1413210499.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-97060500-1413210544.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-78061000-1413210555.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-20104500-1413210594.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-78430200-1413210613.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-38834700-1413210637.jpg]

Now moving on to the brakes.

I removed both calipers, sprayed them down with brake cleaner and popped the pistons with some compressed air. (only 20 psi) The pistons look good with minimal corrosion on the top edges. I used some 0000 steel wool to remove any spots and polished them with a rag. The Piston Seals and Dust seals are in great shape. I can't justify spending 80.00 plus shipping for 12 pieces of rubber so I will be reusing them. Fluid was dark but still clear with no clumps. The mounting bracket was black and even after scrubbing it was still black (wasted elbow grease) I ended up using a Dremel with a small wire wheel to remove all the dirt and painted it with a hammered silver paint. (this should make it easier to clean in the future)

[image: post-31404-0-97884600-1413218119.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-71952700-1413218147.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-19204700-1413218175.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-96808100-1413218195.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-19564400-1413218229.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-60206300-1413218253.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-02773900-1413218276.jpg]

Looks like a great project. Shame that the previous owner didn't at least try to leave the bike in better shape for the next guy.

Lookin good !!!

Nice

A little TLC goes a long way.

Will that paint hold up to brake cleaner ?

checksix

Will that paint hold up to brake cleaner ?

Good point Checksix, I hope it does hold up, I will know soon enough as I need to flush again before re installing.

Thank you all for your comments. :beer: .

Had time to clean up the right front caliper and fortunately the pistons and seals are in great shape so I will reuse them. Also cleaned and painted the caliper support to match the left side. Hope it will stand up to any brake heat and brake cleaner.

Installed the dust seals on the forks. Removed the rear wheel so I can have it powder coated along with the front and also planned to replace both tires. Rear rotor is rusty but no grooves so it can be cleaned up. I am adding the removal of the rear axle and chain adjuster to my list.

Also removed the rear caliper and the pads are completely rusted, I was able to push the pistons in so it looks promising...didn't feel like working on another caliper today... :wacko:

I added some pics of the fairing support and steering stem painted along with the right caliper support.

Enjoy :smile2:

[image: post-31404-0-49492400-1413243761.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-85528800-1413243808.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-86492700-1413243855.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-59074100-1413243881.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-53213500-1413243908.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-97586200-1413243955.jpg]

I have some of the body panels that you need everything except a gas tank ,can paint it to any colour you want .

Should you require the stock VFR decal for the lower front cowls I have a set that are yours for the asking. One caveat would be that decals do have the yellow background color. I ordered them for my bike originally from an OEM supplier and realized after they arrived that they were for a yellow bike. If you're interested just shoot me a PM with your address and I will send them off to you. I can also send you a photo of the decal set if you like. Since I ended up having a local vinyl shop scan the decal and making a replacement for me I have no real use for the old ones.

Please find me a project like this locally ;-) woohoo kudos great work.

Thank you Gmtech94 and zoom zoom for your offers. I have sent you both a PM.

Appreciate your kudos taglicious, I'm sure if you look hard enough under some BBQ covers you might find your project..:-)

I need to pull the tires off the rims tonight so they can be powder coated and then tackle the rear caliper..and who knows maybe some painting as well...will provide an update later..happy VFR-ing :biggrin:

Make sure the powder coaters understand NOT to coat the rear hub mounting surfaces, the front brake rotor mounting surfaces, and the bearing ID's

Yea you can tell the guy who writes up your order, then the flunky in the back that sprays the powder does it wrong anyhow.....

Veefer800Canuck

Make sure the powder coaters understand NOT to coat the rear hub mounting surfaces, the front brake rotor mounting surfaces, and the bearing ID's

Yea you can tell the guy who writes up your order, then the flunky in the back that sprays the powder does it wrong anyhow.....

Thank you veefer, yes I agree and had planned on taping things off before bringing them to the powder coater. I guess I now have to hope the guy in the back doesn't peel the tape off...lol

Unfortunately, breaking beads is not as easy as the you tube videos...I tried an eight foot 2x4 and a block of wood...all I did was raise my 400lb workbench a few times. I will have to get these removed by a pro :wacko:

Rovari

Unfortunately, breaking beads is not as easy as the you tube videos...I tried an eight foot 2x4 and a block of wood...all I did was raise my 400lb workbench a few times. I will have to get these removed by a pro :wacko:

Try this: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/79443-tire-changing-for-cheapskates/

[image: 20140704 092233]

If you have any further ?'s let me know

Gary

V-FORE This is what I use, I have tried 2x4's and they would not work for me so I purchased two to these 600lbs of pressure each :cheerleader: The first time it will take a bit to get the hang of it but after that 5 mins & you will have the new rubber on! I have changed about 4 or 5 sets this way now. http://www.irwin.com/tools/clamps/xp600-one-handed-bar-clamps-spreaders

If you have any further ?'s let me know

Gary

checksix

Rovari

Unfortunately, breaking beads is not as easy as the you tube videos...I tried an eight foot 2x4 and a block of wood...all I did was raise my 400lb workbench a few times. I will have to get these removed by a pro :wacko:

Try this: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/79443-tire-changing-for-cheapskates/

Thanks guys, really appreciate your tips :woohoo: I was going to double up a 2x4 and give the "checksix method" another try although I do have some heavy duty clamps I use for woodworking...I will give the "v-fore method" a try and let you know how it works out...thanks again.

Rovari

- Brake rotors do not have any grooves but are colored from pad wear...will try to sand them or use scotch brite pads to shine them up...any suggestions?

Suggestion: Don't.

The brake rotor is supposed to be discolored. That's the brake pad transfer material. It indicates the pad was properly bedded into the rotor.

You should leave it alone unless you're changing brake pad compounds, in which case, you should remove it before bedding the new pads into the rotors.

taglicious

Please find me a project like this locally ;-) woohoo kudos great work.

Here you go :goofy:

[image: 474.jpg]

Great work Rovari!

pres589

Looks like a great project. Shame that the previous owner didn't at least try to leave the bike in better shape for the next guy.

Well, you should have seen it when I got it ...

Anyway, doing a great job! Looking forward to following this to the end.

Nerdy

Rovari

- Brake rotors do not have any grooves but are colored from pad wear...will try to sand them or use scotch brite pads to shine them up...any suggestions?

Suggestion: Don't.

The brake rotor is supposed to be discolored. That's the brake pad transfer material. It indicates the pad was properly bedded into the rotor.

You should leave it alone unless you're changing brake pad compounds, in which case, you should remove it before bedding the new pads into the rotors.

I would definately give the rotors a light rub with 1200gritt or scourer just to give a decent surface for new pads. You don't want them shiny or uneven just a nice rough surface.

Also pull apart that filter in the front caliper mount master cylinder and clean it good an proper, I showed it in my rebuild thread. Be gentle with it as I couldn't find it as a spare part.

The Phantom

taglicious

Please find me a project like this locally ;-) woohoo kudos great work.

Here you go :goofy:

[image: 474.jpg]

Great work Rovari!

LOL, nice BBQ :laugh: Thank you Phantom!

B4V4

pres589

Looks like a great project. Shame that the previous owner didn't at least try to leave the bike in better shape for the next guy.

Well, you should have seen it when I got it ...

Anyway, doing a great job! Looking forward to following this to the end.

Thank you for the work you did and sourcing the parts B4V4!! You gave me a good head start. Had a crazy week, wife's birthday, fridge died and leaves fell from the trees :wacko: . I will be getting back into the project this weekend. Most of the parts have arrived...

aokman

Nerdy

Rovari

- Brake rotors do not have any grooves but are colored from pad wear...will try to sand them or use scotch brite pads to shine them up...any suggestions?

Suggestion: Don't.

The brake rotor is supposed to be discolored. That's the brake pad transfer material. It indicates the pad was properly bedded into the rotor.

You should leave it alone unless you're changing brake pad compounds, in which case, you should remove it before bedding the new pads into the rotors.

I would definately give the rotors a light rub with 1200gritt or scourer just to give a decent surface for new pads. You don't want them shiny or uneven just a nice rough surface.

Also pull apart that filter in the front caliper mount master cylinder and clean it good an proper, I showed it in my rebuild thread. Be gentle with it as I couldn't find it as a spare part.

Thanks for the advice Nerdy and aokman...I will be replacing the brake pads and wanted to have a good clean surface for the new pads to bed in. I will try a couple of different options and post the results.

Rovari

V-FORE This is what I use, I have tried 2x4's and they would not work for me so I purchased two to these 600lbs of pressure each :cheerleader: The first time it will take a bit to get the hang of it but after that 5 mins & you will have the new rubber on! I have changed about 4 or 5 sets this way now. http://www.irwin.com/tools/clamps/xp600-one-handed-bar-clamps-spreaders

If you have any further ?'s let me know

Gary

checksix

Rovari

Unfortunately, breaking beads is not as easy as the you tube videos...I tried an eight foot 2x4 and a block of wood...all I did was raise my 400lb workbench a few times. I will have to get these removed by a pro :wacko:

Try this: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/79443-tire-changing-for-cheapskates/

Thanks guys, really appreciate your tips :woohoo: I was going to double up a 2x4 and give the "checksix method" another try although I do have some heavy duty clamps I use for woodworking...I will give the "v-fore method" a try and let you know how it works out...thanks again.

I tried the clamps and broke the bead..thanks for the tip. I don't have the rim protectors or tire removal tools so I found a mobile guy to remove the tires, once I have the rims back he will return to install the new tires and balance.

For that much work, I would have paid a lot less. Good to see the bike not rotting away though.

If your paint doesn't hold up to brake cleaner or fluid, I've had good experience with wheel paint. Still in rattle can form, but it seems to hold up to nasty cleaners and solvents.

Thanks for the heads up mk2davis, I have now considered to strip the paint as these brackets are not painted stock. I have recently purchased a sandblasting cabinet and may blast the paint off and go raw aluminum.

I managed to get a few things done last night. :biggrin:

Removing the rear 46mm nut on the swing arm proved to be difficult. Used a 2 foot 1/2" bar with a 2 foot pipe extension and the nut wouldn't budge. I bent a pry bar and pushed the bike forward enough to fold the center stand and drop the bike onto it's belly...doh!!! I had an impact gun but it was a cheap one (only 250lbs torque) it too wouldn't budge the nut. I went and purchased a HD impact gun with 500lbs torque, tried again and the nut was off in 10 seconds. So for those of you who are going to remove the rear axle, pick up a good quality impact gun with 500lbs torque and you will have no problem.

The rear axle was in great shape, the sealed bearings are in good condition and the needle bearings also looked good with the exception of old grease. I ordered up some new seals and started to clean up the axle and brake rotor. I used 2 scotch brite pads and a lot of elbow grease and the rotor came out nice and clean.

I reassembled the brake calipers, prepped them for paint and threw 3 coats of satin black VHT on them. I will include some pics later today.

[image: post-31404-0-85444500-1414237538.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-18616000-1414237562.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-73631600-1414237603.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-15411600-1414237651.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-13065100-1414237681.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-25288000-1414237699.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-07485600-1414237726.jpg]

Geez, that was a tough nut. Glad I didn't have that much trouble with mine.

On reinstallation, I used blue locktite in addition to staking the nut, just in case.

It's amazing how these kinds of projects can transform a bike. Removing the crud, a little touch up paint here and there and she looks new again!

Another quick update and a question...

I cleaned up the gauges using a head light restore plastic polish..came out pretty good, the plastic was very cloudy from sitting for so long. Also took some time to clean up the back axle assembly, paint the sprocket and polish up the aluminum brackets. I also leaned up the seal surfaces and now just waiting for the seals to come in..

Now here's the question...I have looked for posts but havent found one on swing arm removal. I have gotten myself so deep into this I would like to remove the swing arm to check the bearings and give it a good scrub down. Has anyone removed the swing arm? Is it a big job? Anything I should be aware of?

Appreciate any feedback. :biggrin:

[image: post-31404-0-55667200-1414332925.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-22700000-1414332947.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-40061200-1414332961.jpg]

If you've dismantled the rear hub, the swingarm is a piece of cake.

Undo the shock linkage on the bottom, jack the swingarm up, and drop the shock out the hole in the bottom.

Undo the long swingarm pivot bolt and she comes out. Watch your spacer locations.

When I put mine in again, I put the pivot bolt in from the RH side, and had the nut on the LH side, which makes future chain and sprocket installations easier.

Oh and if your rear cush drive rubbers are shot, and there is play in the cush drive, replace 'em now while it's apart.

Makes a big difference at low speeds, and on/off throttle transitions.

Veefer800Canuck

If you've dismantled the rear hub, the swingarm is a piece of cake.

Undo the shock linkage on the bottom, jack the swingarm up, and drop the shock out the hole in the bottom.

Undo the long swingarm pivot bolt and she comes out. Watch your spacer locations.

When I put mine in again, I put the pivot bolt in from the RH side, and had the nut on the LH side, which makes future chain and sprocket installations easier.

Oh and if your rear cush drive rubbers are shot, and there is play in the cush drive, replace 'em now while it's apart.

Makes a big difference at low speeds, and on/off throttle transitions.

Thank you Veefer, appreciate the confidence and tips. I wasn't sure about the rubbers, they feel quite hard, I guessed they are supposed to be hard. They have them for $25 at Partzilla so I may as well replace them. They feel very tight when I join the two halves. thanks :fing02:

It works better when the bike is all together, you can put it in gear while both wheels are on the ground, have a friend sit on the bike, ad rock it back and forth, while you compare the movement between the sprocket drive side and the inner driven hub.

Thanks again Veefer. They are only $19.00 at Partzilla so I ordered a set.

The swing arm was a piece of cake to remove...it was a lot more work to clean than it was to remove.....oh but it is nice to see a clean swing arm :fing02: Now I'm wondering if i should remove the engine...lol

[image: post-31404-0-02241200-1414410662.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-66295100-1414410677.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-15034300-1414410692.jpg]

Yeah, I've had my front and rear suspension fully removed probably 7 times in 15 years.

It's nice to clean and check/grease/torque everything. Easy to find stuff that needs attention while you've got it apart already.

And also, nothing gets seized together from neglect.

with that swingarm off...put a nice clean Penske on that SSSA...

Great suggestion but I am already over budget on this project. It may have to be something I add in the future.

rangerscott69

For that much work, I would have paid a lot less. Good to see the bike not rotting away though.

I love armchair critics! $600.00 for the bike, $700.00 in parts, $100.00 in taxes. Please let me know where I can get a running 5th with 10kms on the odometer for $600.00.

That swing-arm is a thing of beauty!

B4V4

rangerscott69

For that much work, I would have paid a lot less. Good to see the bike not rotting away though.

I love armchair critics! $600.00 for the bike, $700.00 in parts, $100.00 in taxes. Please let me know where I can get a running 5th with 10kms on the odometer for $600.00.

That swing-arm is a thing of beauty!

Considering this bike can fetch $3000.00 with 50k on it, I agree, the price was very reasonable. This was purchased as a project, I didn't want a bike that didn't need work. I was very happy to see that the swingarm cleaned up so well :biggrin: ..I just sandblasted the steering head and threw on 3 coats of silver...

B4V4

rangerscott69

For that much work, I would have paid a lot less. Good to see the bike not rotting away though.

I love armchair critics! $600.00 for the bike, $700.00 in parts, $100.00 in taxes. Please let me know where I can get a running 5th with 10kms on the odometer for $600.00.

That swing-arm is a thing of beauty!

Post wasnt for you smart ass.

A little more progress.. :biggrin:

I included a couple of pics of the steering head after blasting and then after being painted. I didn't like a couple of chips out of the coil for the shock so I taped er up and painted with 3 coats of red to clean it up. Got the rest of the suspension hardware cleaned up and removed the rear frame / seat bar...will paint that tomorrow. I also included a pic of one of the calipers painted with satin black (VHT), I will polish the NISSIN logo before re-installing.

[image: post-31404-0-09614700-1414463704.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-86429500-1414463736.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-83123600-1414463762.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-33478600-1414463798.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-33207900-1414463821.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-92046000-1414464011.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-88915300-1414464080.jpg]

I'm really loving the attention to detail on this project. It's going to look like a new bike when it's finished!

Hey Rovari, do you plan on doing anything with the engine? I ask because with it been sitting for so long, I'm sure the rings have a high chance of being stuck. My last vehicle sat for less time and it burned a good amount of oil for a good while before the rings finally moved, but it never had great compression. Same thing with the engine I pulled from a wreck to do a swap. Every singe ring was stuck. Even the real thins ones around the oil ring.

If you're not wanting to crack the engine open (wouldn't blame you), you could pour some ATF fluid or mystery oil/sea foam down the spark holes and let it soak for the time you're doing all this.

It is running, B4V4 (the previous owner) spent some time getting the bike going.The injectors have been cleaned and I heard it running before I put it on the trailer. Hesitant to start although once running it was responsive to throttle. To your point it may have weak compression although I do have a compression tester and 6 months before the cold weather goes away... :wacko: With vehicles the compression should be 120 - 150psi...do you or anyone know the expected compression for this bike?

5th gen FSM sez 142-199 psi with engine at operating temp.

Cogswell

5th gen FSM sez 142-199 psi with engine at operating temp.

Thank you, I will check it once I get a few more things reassembled..I was hoping with the cylinder liners that they would be less prone to rusting...fingers crossed.

Rovari

It is running, B4V4 (the previous owner) spent some time getting the bike going.The injectors have been cleaned and I heard it running before I put it on the trailer. Hesitant to start although once running it was responsive to throttle. To your point it may have weak compression although I do have a compression tester and 6 months before the cold weather goes away... :wacko: With vehicles the compression should be 120 - 150psi...do you or anyone know the expected compression for this bike?

Maybe american vehicles, but most japs I've dealt with are 199psi new.

150 or lower in a japanese engine and it's an oil burner. Dealt with enough of those.

I'm really hung up on this compression test now. Still waiting for parts to come in so I'm just cleaning up all the wiring harnesses and hoses....also planning to sand down the back frame and paint tonight.

Has anyone done a "dry or cold" compression test? I would like to hook up a battery this weekend and check the compression but the expected compression levels above (thanks to cogswell and rangerscott :beer: ) are based on "operating temperature".

Appreciate any input :biggrin:

zupatun

with that swingarm off...put a nice clean Penske on that SSSA...

get a 929 and send to jamie here on the board !!!!! Great job on the rebuild btw :cheerleader:

Thanks dude! I am going to wait with suspension changes until I get this puppy rolling..

Update:

Ended up ordering more parts ( :wacko: ) , still waiting for rims from powder coating, got some of the back end of the engine cleaned up and had the toothbrush out cleaning the brake lines and harnesses. It's cleaning up nicely :biggrin: .

I was looking at the 2014 VFR800 and noticed that the rear hub is black with a silver sprocket....I am wondering if I should paint my hub black ...I have attached pics, please let me know if you like black or silver...I was thinking if I go with black I should use a Silver cap....

Cheers.. :beer:

[image: post-31404-0-54874200-1414805009.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-94217100-1414805084.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-70637800-1414805126.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-23531300-1414805203.jpg]

awsome rebuild. I wish I had your mechnical talent so I could do mine now!

Hub? Yes! In fact powder coat the swing arm and hub to match. (I'd much rather spend other people's $$$ than my own! :goofy: )

viffviff

awsome rebuild. I wish I had your mechnical talent so I could do mine now!

Thanks viffviff, if you can loosen and tighten bolts and know how to scrub..you can do this too...unleash your desire to get yours done and get er done...lots of support here if you have issues.

KevCarver

Hub? Yes! In fact powder coat the swing arm and hub to match. (I'd much rather spend other people's $$$ than my own! :goofy: )

Thanks Kev, not sure if I want to do the swing arm. The wheels are getting done in a gloss black powder coat...thinking there will be too much black if I do the swing arm as well.

Happy New Year to all!!

I have had a busy end to the year and haven't taken the time to provide an update. I have made some good progress cleaning up and painting a number of parts. Got my rims back from the powder coater and of course they coated the bearing and rotor mounting surfaces... even after explaining exactly where "not" to powder coat. I used a product called "Super Remover" it is a paint stripper that works well on powder coated surfaces. I've included some pics below.

Loving my new sandblasting cabinet... I ordered one online with free shipping for $200.00 CAD and it has paid for itself in no time. For anyone doing a restoration like this I would recommend getting one to clean any external parts..of course I did not and would not use this for any brake or engine related parts.

The new Pirelli's were mounted and the wheels balanced..mobile service..how convenient. For anyone in the Toronto area looking for mobile service you can contact Ricardo at 416-457-3714..he was knowledgeable, fair and professional.

Unfortunately after reinstalling the forks and handlebars I noticed that the front upper stay (fairing support) is bent...tried to straighten but no luck...had to order a new one...Partzilla is really loving me..ugh.

Installed new switches, clutch master, brake master and new grips...starting to look like a bike again :491:

Reassembled and installed the rear chain tensioner, swing arm assembly, front & rear calipers and attached all the brake lines. Rebuilt the rear brake master cylinder, replaced the rear brake switch and springs and polished the brake pedal.

I happened to find a fan for the R/R for $5.00and will duplicate the mod that aokman did to help cool the rectifier.

Removed and rebuilt the clutch slave cylinder...waiting for gasket to re install. Plan on removing the crankcase cover and repainting. I have also removed the rear valve cover so I can repaint that as well. The list goes on....

I have included some pictures below..I will provide another update as I make more progress..enjoy :beer:

And some additional pictures..

[image: post-31404-0-07469400-1420121164.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-57076500-1420121231.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-21844600-1420121253.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-08742900-1420121300.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-25545500-1420121322.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-18727900-1420121338.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-74138200-1420121372.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-27480800-1420121399.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-39185400-1420121426.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-45143100-1420121445.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-66759900-1420121463.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-82388200-1420121480.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-77756600-1420121616.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-18232000-1420121640.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-43279300-1420121656.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-91041200-1420121672.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-49186100-1420121728.jpg]

Ah, it warms the heart to see a 5th gen being restored. Good work so far and good luck on the rest of it!

Outstanding! :beer: I find that kind of project really satisfying - bringing something back to life. Can't wait to see some before and after pics. Cheers

Oh that sucks with the powdercoatimg.

Did they do the mounting flange on the back of the rear wheel too?

Thank you for encouraging comments marriedman and Cogswell.....I can see the light at the end of the tunnel.. :beer:

To answer your question Veefer...yes they did coat the back flange but not too bad..more super remover and it will be fine.

Looks good ..

Looks great, it is going to look like a new bike when done.

Looking good! I'm in the process of fixing up a 5th gen that has been sitting up for a while. Less than 2k miles in the last 11 years. I'm going to be referring to this thread often.

Keep it up!

RD

Rovari

Thank you for encouraging comments marriedman and Cogswell.....I can see the light at the end of the tunnel.. :beer:

To answer your question Veefer...yes they did coat the back flange but not too bad..more super remover and it will be fine.

Grr, I hate it when they do that.......

OMG these brakes are a biatch to bleed...got the front done fairly easy...almost a liter of fluid because I didn't adjust the new front brake lever fully...lesson learned.

I am using the mighty vac and following the extensive post on 6th Gen bleeding. I just seem to be going through a lot of fluid on the combined system...haven't done the rear yet.

Any tips or tricks or comments appreciated..cheers.. :beer:

dude

zupatun

with that swingarm off...put a nice clean Penske on that SSSA...

get a 929 and send to jamie here on the board !!!!! Great job on the rebuild btw :cheerleader:

Agreed!

I got one for mine with the "middle" setting and I'm quite happy with it.

Bike looks just great. Very nice work!

I think somewhere you mentioned it was hard starting but then ran well. I also think I noticed the choke lever broken off? Have you seen to that?

Best

Jim

Thanks Jim, yes the choke / idle control lever has been replaced...

and THE BRAKES are DONE!! It's amazing how well depressing the brake pedal overnight helps evacuate those last bubbles...now onto the clutch install and bleeding...cheers :beer:

For $1,500 I would have sold you a '98 that only needed new plastics, battery and tires! Great project though. Wish I had the time to fix up mine.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

rolomarr

For $1,500 I would have sold you a '98 that only needed new plastics, battery and tires! Great project though. Wish I had the time to fix up mine.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thanks rolomarr, as you can see this is getting close to being finished...I will be ready for a new project soon, how many KM or miles on the 98? This bike only has 10,000 km and for that reason I feel there is value in this restoration..probably spent $2500.00 in addition to the $1400.00 purchase price but it will be immaculate once complete.

Looking good! I'm always impressed by folks who do restorations like this. Unfortunately I have neither the time or patience for this kind of work. I'm also short money and space most of the time, but I'm also just not much of a mechanic. I'm hoping to tackle something like this someday, however, maybe on a slightly older machine - but not one for which it's impossible (or very expensive) to find parts.

Anyway, great work and I'm looking forward to seeing the end result of all your terrific efforts! :fing02:

40k miles last I checked. I laid it down in a freak snow storm in 2012 then bought some cheap Chinese fairings, replaced the clutch springs and plates and rode it on a 4k mile trip to California and back. When I got back I was soooo unhappy with the way it looked that I bought another red 98' VFR with 16k miles and a two brothers exhaust for $2,800.

The other VFR has been sitting naked in my garage since. I really want to plastic weld the fairings. Do the basic stuff (plugs, oil, battery etc) and sell it.

You really did get a great deal though and when she's all done she is going to be worth a lot more then just the money you put into her.

Edit: as mentioned by many others, I look forward to your final update!

Switchblade

Looks good ..

vfrcapn

Looks great, it is going to look like a new bike when done.

SCguy

Looking good! I'm in the process of fixing up a 5th gen that has been sitting up for a while. Less than 2k miles in the last 11 years. I'm going to be referring to this thread often.

Keep it up!

RD

Thank you Switchblade, VFRcapn and SCguy, appreciate your comments. Drives me to keep going and do better... :beer:

TimC

Looking good! I'm always impressed by folks who do restorations like this. Unfortunately I have neither the time or patience for this kind of work. I'm also short money and space most of the time, but I'm also just not much of a mechanic. I'm hoping to tackle something like this someday, however, maybe on a slightly older machine - but not one for which it's impossible (or very expensive) to find parts.

Anyway, great work and I'm looking forward to seeing the end result of all your terrific efforts! :fing02:

Thank you TimC, I wish you all the best on your project. The hardest part about doing a project like this is starting. I am confident that you can do all of this. Limitations may be tools and time but definitely not resources or information. Jump into it with both feet and and make it happen..lot's of support here...good luck

Here is another update and a couple o questions....

I removed the valve cover and painted, cleaned up the air box, butterfly valves and intake tubes. Started bleeding the clutch and unfortunately it started leaking under pressure..This is with a new seal kit incl a new spring, there is no pitting on the slave bore although there is some discoloration...I didn't feel comfortable trying to smooth out the bore so I ordered up a new clutch slave and another gasket from Partzilla. (I may buy shares in Partzilla :wacko: ) To justify the shipping cost I also ordered a new gear shift lever and a new coolant reservoir.

When cleaning the throttle tubes I got an inspection camera down to the intake valves and noticed some minor rust on the valves (looks like water was sitting on top of the valves) I managed to scrape away most of it and macgyvered a paint cap, some tape and a 1/4" tube on my shopvac...was able to suck out the debris and carb cleaner on top of the valves.

Questions:

1.Should I be able to manually push the clutch rod and manually engage the clutch? I tried and nearly pushed the bike over with no movement...is it possible that the clutch plates are seized together??

2.I have noticed that when the bike is in gear the front sprocket has approximately 1" of play...seems a bit much....is this normal?

Appreciate any help....cheers :beer:

[image: post-31404-0-37286100-1423395558.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-41304200-1423395643.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-02981500-1423395669.jpg]

The magic of leverage and hydraulics is what enables you to disengage the clutch using the lever! :cool:

And if they were seized it wouldn't change anything. You'd still be able to move the lever.

Thanks Kev, I got the new clutch slave installed, no more leaks and the magic of leverage has engaged the clutch.

I have to confess...after looking a second time at the old clutch slave I realized the new seal was installed backwards and that's why it was leaking... I feel like a total nit twit...dohh!!! So, if anyone needs a clutch slave...I have one :comp13:

The clutch is quite tight..is there any way to adjust it?

Nice paint job on the valve cover but you need a set of PAR valve blockoff plates.

[image: RearA&APlate]

[image: FrontA&APlate]

Thanks Switchblade, can you explain what the benefit is to block off? I've seen so many do it but have been hesitant to do mine.

The only benefit is when they clog and they will eventually, is you want have worry about it.

Both 6th gens i have owned start making a popping sound at idle.

Switchblade

The only benefit is when they clog and they will eventually, is you want have worry about it.

Both 6th gens i have owned start making a popping sound at idle.

Thanks for the quick reply and comments Switchblade. I am considering to do some mods next winter, I will add this to the growing list... :beer:

AHHH...Spring is in the air..

Good day all, finally the snow is melting and the pot holes are being filled. Another 4-6 weeks and another VFR will be hitting the pavement.

Been busy with a few things. Removed the water pump cleaned it up and replaced the o-ring, removed the crank cover sanded some scratches out and applied a fresh coat of paint. The clutch and gears were very clean..and yes SEBSPEED I did consider a new crank cover with a window but will wait until I get into my modding phase. Replaced the coolant bottle because it was discoloured, spent some time polishing the exhaust pipe...and finally I have started on the body work with the gas tank being first. I can't believe how some people can be so careless, the tank has all kinds of dings and chips..

I added a bunch of pics as \i know everyone likes pics...happy VFR-ing

some additional pics

[image: post-31404-0-28461400-1426333124.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-92742900-1426333145.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-14865700-1426333163.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-90331200-1426333192.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-41655800-1426333212.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-41035200-1426333233.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-59414900-1426333405.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-13682900-1426333422.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-15878100-1426333436.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-68966900-1426333450.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-40426600-1426333467.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-21327600-1426333485.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-47504200-1426333500.jpg]

Good morning,

I got the base coat on the tank but have a question.

Before I put the clear on can someone confirm if the tank decals are applied before the clear coat? I want to do the same as stock.

A close up picture of the tank emblem would also be very helpful... :cool:

Appreciate any feedback.

Thanks

[image: post-31404-0-64503500-1426506773.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-82462000-1426506785.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-00287900-1426506799.jpg]

On the 4th gen, decals are under the clear coat.

All the part looks shiny and new!

I know for a fact that mine were under the clearcoat, but I no longer own them so I can't get you a picture. I bet the newer Honda emblem would look good on there too.

[image: 2015_honda_vfr800f_sport_blanc-perle_032]

Make sure you then have the wing point in the right direction.....

Paging apexandy!!! :goofy:

Dutchy

On the 4th gen, decals are under the clear coat.

All the part looks shiny and new!

Thank you Dutchy, I figured that it was..thank you for confirming.

marriedman

I know for a fact that mine were under the clearcoat, but I no longer own them so I can't get you a picture. I bet the newer Honda emblem would look good on there too.

[image: 2015_honda_vfr800f_sport_blanc-perle_032]

Thank you marriedman. Good suggestion on the new style logo... :beer:

Dutchy

Make sure you then have the wing point in the right direction.....

Paging apexandy!!! :goofy:

lol, so no beer before application?

[image: IMAG0173_zpsnkne3yee.jpg]

Definitely under the clear on my 99.

SCguy

[image: IMAG0173_zpsnkne3yee.jpg]

Definitely under the clear on my 99.

Awesome, thanks SCguy.

Well..the internet can be your friend and your enemy. Lot's of information but sometimes too much. The tried, tested and true way to get the right answers is to talk to a professional!

I planned on clear coating my tank with rattle can clear. When I spoke to a professional and mentioned that he cringed...needless to say he will be clear coating my tank. After all the work I put into my tank and not really having a proper booth set up I decided to buy fairings from China...$569.00 CAD on fleabay. Rather than sanding painting and clear coating I figured the cost will almost be equal..(without breathing fumes and painting one of my sheds with red over spray) I will post some pics when I receive them and hope I didn't waste my money.

I hope they fit.

NOOOOOOOOO !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Let me say from personal experience they are a complete waste of $. Certainly after all the work you've done, the bike won't be worth squat!

Sorry :unsure2:

B4V4

NOOOOOOOOO !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Let me say from personal experience they are a complete waste of $. Certainly after all the work you've done, the bike won't be worth squat!

Sorry :unsure2:

Well, it's a little too late now. I did commit to purchase. I still have the original pieces. I will slowly work on the OEM panels and can install the after market ones until the OEM panels are ready...

I did see a lot of positive feedback from buyers of these fairings...fingers crossed. :comp13:

The key differentiation in Chinese fairings seem to be the question if they are injection molded or compression molded. The former being the good better one!

Here the ones from a Dutch VFR owner, injection molds

[image: 205pcnr.jpg]

The bolt holes on the inside broke off easily so he had to be a little creative

[image: 24gr2px.jpg]

Fit not perfect

[image: sfv09h.jpg]

[image: 9u6l4p.jpg]

[image: 25kjvxl.jpg]

Seller was "Heyman Speedmotor"

You gotta give them credit for choosing a German sounding name....

I am going to try to cancel the order on ebay..thanks for the pics dutchy. I will not put up with this type of quality..if I cannot cancel and the fairings are anything like these I will return for refund.

Sorry I didn't see the post sooner!

I have experience with 2 sets of aftermarkets. Although significantly better than the pics supplied, the general quality of material, bracket strength and alignment were all an issue. Paint quality was excellent, but where stripes had to line up with the tank - not even close. As a result of my two experiences, I will NEVER go back.

On the bright side, if you cannot get a pre-refund, this will buy you time to "do-it right". You should be able to get 50% back when you sell them. There's bound to be someone looking for some track fairings.

BTW, thought I'd add. I've rattle-canned a couple of tanks in my day - primer, base coat + clear. I cannot say that I was disappointed with the result. The key is prep (which by your standards was probably sub-par!), wet sanding between every couple of coats & progressive buffing compounds to finish off the job. Looked like glass in the end but my eye is not overly picky as were 80's bikes. Also, not to assume anything, you need to use acrylic enamel to be protected from gas spills.

What would be a good price to paint an OEM set of fairings, assuming there were only a few small repairs, single color & basic decals?

I paid $900 to have my entire bike painted, 3 colours.

I thought that was decent.

B4V4

Sorry I didn't see the post sooner!

I have experience with 2 sets of aftermarkets. Although significantly better than the pics supplied, the general quality of material, bracket strength and alignment were all an issue. Paint quality was excellent, but where stripes had to line up with the tank - not even close. As a result of my two experiences, I will NEVER go back.

On the bright side, if you cannot get a pre-refund, this will buy you time to "do-it right". You should be able to get 50% back when you sell them. There's bound to be someone looking for some track fairings.

BTW, thought I'd add. I've rattle-canned a couple of tanks in my day - primer, base coat + clear. I cannot say that I was disappointed with the result. The key is prep (which by your standards was probably sub-par!), wet sanding between every couple of coats & progressive buffing compounds to finish off the job. Looked like glass in the end but my eye is not overly picky as were 80's bikes. Also, not to assume anything, you need to use acrylic enamel to be protected from gas spills.

Thanks again B4V4.

I am extremely picky and have prepped the tank with several coats of primer and 4 coats of base..400 and 600 grit in between coats. I am confident the tank will look fine with some clear on it...I had a lazy moment Sunday when I ordered the fairings thinking I could avoid the hours of prep needed to get the panels ready....I am old enough to know that the easy way is often not the better way.

After several emails back and forth Neverland has agreed to refund me if the fairings do not fit. I told them I would be sharing the results and posting a you tube video. I am preparing myself for a let down although there is a sliver of hope. I will continue working on the panels and McGyvering all the missing tabs, clips and repairing the cracks.

To vfrcapn question above...the lowest quote I received for paint was $1500.00 and the highest was $2500.00...

I think I read somewhere that putting the fairings in the sun to warm them before installing them helps them become more pliable. That might help with fitting them and minimizing unsightly gaps.

On the GTA forum here, there were several painters offering 1 colour + clear for under 1k.

As additional advice on installing the aftermarket product, connect everything up a loose as possible before tightening everything down. There is a certain about of "give" at the various mounting points. Also, their are various bendable brackets which the fairing mount to so keep that in mind as well. Because it was at a perfect right-angle from the factory doesn't mean it necessarily needs to continue to be.

Paint looks good. Bonne chance!

Wow on the paint! And you thought an assembly line worker in China would put more effort into their work than you have. Oh ye of little faith!

I wish you luck

Thank you Dutchy

Paint looks good. Bonne chance!

Thank you vfrcapn

Wow on the paint! And you thought an assembly line worker in China would put more effort into their work than you have. Oh ye of little faith!

Thanks B4V4...lazy moment has since passed and work continues...

I understood from his post that was the final shot before stickers and clear coat. If I could paint like that....

Paint looks great on that tank, but did you forget to put the stickers on before you lacquered it ?

Thanks Mohawk, nope this is just wet from sanding..

So is that pic just a rinsed pic after wet sand or did you clear it yourself? Either way looks very nice. But yes if you cleared it already the factory graphics were underneath the clear.

If so you could always just go with something like the 7th gen round wing emblems. They look great imo.

Awesome project

Thanks paladinreed, this is just wet and no clear yet..good suggestion on the 7th gen emblems

I understood from his post that was the final shot before stickers and clear coat. If I could paint like that....

you are correct vfrcapn...and you can paint like this...prep work is 99% of the final result...

Unfortunately after the pics above I found 2 spots where I had sanded just a bit too much...I ran out of grey primer and used red oxide primer not thinking that it would darken the red in those touch up areas. Needless to say the entire tank had to be primed again...grrr :angry:

The shop where I had the red paint mixed up was not available to mix more so I went to another paint supplier and I am now going the none aerosol route..I hope the red they mixed will look as nice as the first batch.

Also, after a lot of research it seems that decals should go on after the first coat of clear so they can bond better and the clear seals the paint from possibly bubbling under the decals...The tank has been re-primed and baking over night...I will try the new red after a good wet sanding...again lol...appreciate all the comments   :beer:

Attached Images

• [image: IMG_3236.JPG]
• [image: IMG_3248.JPG]
• [image: IMG_3253.JPG]

Picked the bike up out of storage today - I know a little ahead of reality but just couldn't resist.

Get going man !

Picked the bike up out of storage today - I know a little ahead of reality but just couldn't resist.

Get going man !

I'm going!!....covered in paint right now...will update tonight or tomorrow..primimg gas tank and fairings today...painting tomorrow... :beer:

It has been a busy 2 weeks...

Unfortunately the new primer I used on the tank reacted with the base coat and the tank had to be completely stripped to metal.

Started on the body panels and made repairs with "Plastifix". I have to say, I really like this stuff. Comes in a powder form and reacts with a solvent which allows it to bond directly to the ABS. (some good vids on You Tube explaining how it works) I used a dremel to create a cavity where I had cracks and filled them with the Plastifix (both inside and out) super strong now and easy to sand.

The new paint that I purchased needed a white base coat so I used a white primer and wet sanded all with 800 grit. Had to apply a self etching primer to the gas tank on any bare metal before priming. Had to McGyver a makeshift paint booth in my garage to apply the base and clear coats.. 

I put on two base coats then installed the decals on the gas tank. Then applied 2 clear coats, overall I am very happy with the result. A couple of very minimal spots need a quick polishing. Not only can I see the light at the end of the tunnel...now I can see the end of the tunnel.  :cheerleader:

Lot's of pics attached...enjoy...  :beer:

Attached Images

• [image: IMG_3333.JPG]
• [image: IMG_3346.JPG]
• [image: IMG_3359.JPG]
• [image: IMG_3277.JPG]
• [image: IMG_3278.JPG]
• [image: IMG_3291.JPG]
• [image: IMG_3298.JPG]
• [image: IMG_3299.JPG]
• [image: IMG_3320.JPG]
• [image: IMG_3370.JPG]
• [image: IMG_3384.JPG]
• [image: IMG_3411.JPG]
• [image: IMG_3422.JPG]
• [image: IMG_3421.JPG]
• [image: IMG_3424.JPG]

So, we getting any "together" pics shortly? 16 this weekend!

B4V4

So, we getting any "together" pics shortly? 16 this weekend!

I will get back at er this weekend..I'm anxious and ready to ride...the weather is here. Got the gas tank compounded today, polished the headlight / tail light and will be re-covering the seat, installing the fan for the R/R, installing the battery and starting the bike tomorrow...then checking the compression, charging system, fuel, oil leaks etc.... :beer:

[image: post-31404-0-69191600-1429321529.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-06041100-1429321536.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-36461100-1429321552.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-79411700-1429321666.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-29577800-1429321857.jpg]

This bike is awesome!! Finally got her finished and all I can say is wow...What a nice ride...the power is awesome..front wheel wants to come off the ground...definitely no problems with the compression. The ride is so comfortable and the bike is very well balanced. I will have a hard time letting it go.

[image: post-31404-0-02147800-1430948443.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-44918300-1430948464.jpg]

[image: post-31404-0-64038600-1430948485.jpg]

Congrats! :beer:

Love to see the 5th Gen projects, especially the resto's! :cool:

Keep 'em coming! :wheel:

Beautiful! I'm loving my 99 too now that it's running again. Great work!

Bravo bravo!!! :cheerleader: You do good work and should be very proud to show her off! :fing02:

Very Much So Rovari. Excellent JOB adn well done. Now you just have to spend many an hour enjoying the fruits of your labor...............hmmmmmmmm.................ENJOYING a VFR,...................None of us here would find that possible...LOL

ENJOY!!! Oh and the tank on my bike needs a few paint chips fixed, so I was wondering........................ :biggrin:

Very nice job indeed!!! I was going to post something last weekend to see where you were at. Glad you were out testing! I just sold my 6th on Tuesday ... :).

TBH I'm not a lover of VFR red, BUT, what a read and what a job. :beer:

Brilliant my friend :biggrin:

SCguy

Beautiful! I'm loving my 99 too now that it's running again. Great work!

Thank you SCguy..

MarantzManiac

Bravo bravo!!! :cheerleader: You do good work and should be very proud to show her off! :fing02:

Thank you Marantz Maniac...getting allot of looks today :cheerleader:

zoomzoom

Very Much So Rovari. Excellent JOB adn well done. Now you just have to spend many an hour enjoying the fruits of your labor...............hmmmmmmmm.................ENJOYING a VFR,...................None of us here would find that possible...LOL

ENJOY!!! Oh and the tank on my bike needs a few paint chips fixed, so I was wondering........................ :biggrin:

Thanks zoom zoom, it's comments like yours that help keep the project going... if you don't mind paying for a flight to BC I'd be happy to fix your chips for free! :beer:

B4V4

Very nice job indeed!!! I was going to post something last weekend to see where you were at. Glad you were out testing! I just sold my 6th on Tuesday ... :).

Thank you B4V4...without finding your ad and without you taking the initial steps to get this bike going...I wouldn't be here. Thanks for the opportunity to bring a VFR back to life and my lost passion to ride back in full spirit.....Cheers....and now you have sold your VFR? Go figure..

Snowdog

TBH I'm not a lover of VFR red, BUT, what a read and what a job. :beer:

Brilliant my friend :biggrin:

Thank you Snowdog appreciate your comments! :beer:

I was so anxious to ride again today I stuck a 17" laptop and day timer in my jacket (no back pack yet) and drove it to the office, a little square chested but I made it :cool:

This site and it's members have been a great help for advice and drive to finish this project...Thanks to all of you for your comments, advice and encouragement.....much appreciated!! Happy VFRing !! :wheel:

"Thank you B4V4...without finding your ad and without you taking the initial steps to get this bike going...I wouldn't be here. Thanks for the opportunity to bring a VFR back to life and my lost passion to ride back in full spirit.....Cheers....and now you have sold your VFR? Go figure.."

... not for long. I'm now on another quest :).

Well, looks like I may be selling mine sooner than later. My wife doesn't like it when I'm riding the bike, gets worried.... :wacko:

Oh this is heartbreaking! If you cannot somehow convince your wife to allow you to keep the bike, someone will be getting a better than new 5th gen!

You started this build 8 months ago and it took her this amount of time to express her feelings on this??? :unsure: :unsure: :unsure:

Stay away from alcohol, bacon and stripper bars next....

Dutchy

You started this build 8 months ago and it took her this amount of time to express her feelings on this??? :unsure: :unsure: :unsure:

Stay away from alcohol, bacon and stripper bars next....

lol Dutchy..sorry for the gap in replying..I am already on to another massive project..

I think things just became more real when the bike was finished and it didn't help when she seen a motorcycle fail compilation on you tube. (mostly foolish people doing foolish things)

I have had the bike out and still have some final touches to complete..if it comes to selling it won't be until next season :beer: .

The "new from China" brake / clutch master cylinder and lever set I bought on Ebay failed...the clutch piston seal at the lever leaked anytime it was engaged. I ordered another set and installed them last week..all good. Some water sanding and polish then decals and this project will be complete. (for now..lol).

:-)

Really nice work. Has inspired me to (possibly) go a similar route: purchase a bike in need of a LOT of freshening up, then turn it back into a superstar. For a long time I have wanted to do a frame-off resto on a '71 Corvette, but had never thought about going a similar route with a bike. Thanks for showing the way!

aks801

Really nice work. Has inspired me to (possibly) go a similar route: purchase a bike in need of a LOT of freshening up, then turn it back into a superstar. For a long time I have wanted to do a frame-off resto on a '71 Corvette, but had never thought about going a similar route with a bike. Thanks for showing the way!

Thank you aks801. Good luck with your project...the convenience of restoring a bike is that you don't need as much room and you can trailer it yourself if needed....take your time and enjoy!