Finally started tearing my bike down for it's winter overhaul. Planning to repair or replace all the plastic, send out the forks for customized rebuild, replace the rear shock with a revalved CBR 929 shock, new clutch pack, & springs, strip & clearcoat front & rear wheels, clean all wiring contacts, change oil/filter, check stator, & a general cleaning of collected gunk.
Just finished up doing that same project. The weather's so nice here I took it for its first shakedown ride today. I'm very pleased with the new suspension - well worth it. It always feels good when you're a long way from home knowing that everything is sorted and in good working order.
Question: I was able to remove the entire clutch pack without removing the large nut at the center; what's under there & do I need to remove it just to replace the clutch pack?
ALSO, these 2 spacers were under the last clutch plate; is it normal to have 2, and why does one have a concave profile? Normal?
I absolutely love your covers, but I just can't spring for that much cash you know already dropping a lot of dough on the clutch, forks and rear shock....
because if I got the cover, then I would have to get the painting and the colored washers & the stainless steel bolts etc....
How many miles on the clutch? I replaced mine last winter with new OEM friction and springs at 95k miles. I actually measured the old ones one at a time, and as a stack, and found no real difference new to old. Same with springs.
I only did it because I was rebuilding the bike, and had a new clutch cover to replace my battered original one. No idea what life to expect out of it, so I went ahead and changed them.
I've had the bike since 20,500 and not really babied it. Track days, mountain twisties, etc. No drag strip launches or wheelies though.
Almost 50,000 on the clutch now. The bike has a spotty history & multiple owners. It was slipping all last year so just decided to go ahead and replace it. I did notice the original metal plates had tiny dimples on them & wonder if I should keep those versus the smooth plates with the replacement (Barnett)...
It's probably just the springs that are worn out, When I started my upgrades 3 years ago, as soon as I added more power it slipped like crazy, when I stripped it down all 5 springs werebelow service minimum, replaced with heavy duty springs & been fine for last 8k miles.
I've kept up this thread on VFRworld but not here as it's a PITA to upload pics from my phone...
THAT SAID, did a LOT to my bike this winter, to include new clutch pack, 15% heavier clutch springs, new grips, new Vibranators bar end weights, Jamie Daugherty 929 resprung/revalved rear shock & fork cartridge inserts, new thermostat, new windscreen, painted some scrubbed spots, brushed the rims & painted the wheel spokes red to match the bike. I hope to have it on the road by next weekend.
I got a set of the highly touted "Vibranators" bar end weights. I'll do a complete review of them after I get the bike back on the road....delays, delays....[image: post-27845-0-91068600-1430849305.jpg]
I got REALLY lucky & picked up a MINT upper cowl w/ headlight & turn signals on ebay for only $150.00!
I got a set of the highly touted "Vibranators" bar end weights. I'll do a complete review of them after I get the bike back on the road....delays, delays....[image: attachicon.gif]20150424_151025.jpg
I got REALLY lucky & picked up a MINT upper cowl w/ headlight & turn signals on ebay for only $150.00!
[image: attachicon.gif]20150322_110841.jpg
great buy..there like rocking horse shit over here
Putting everything back together and it was having some trouble installing the access panel on the right side above the rearset. that's when I noticed the rearset was bent in several places and the swingarrm bolt was only finger tight! I looked up the torque and it's supposed to be 93 ft bs... it was more like 9.3 inch lbs~
I can't emphasize enough the importance of routinely checking all bolts, nuts, etc. on your bike. I would have never known it was like that had I not noticed the rearset was bent.
It's actually starting to look like a BIKE again![image: post-27845-0-02245600-1431289227.jpg]
Note to self: make sure ALL the hoses & wiring are properly routed before tightening the fork pinch bolts, installing the wheel & installing the brake system~
something is wrong. When I turn on the ignition I don't get the priming from the fuel pump and when I hit the starter all I get is a reay click behind the instrument panel. Also the clock is completely blank although the instrument lights work.... still haven't identified that mystery plug.
Also, this connector is killing me...it comes from under the throttle bodies.....LORD PLEASE don't let it be a connector under there!
I'm in a serious time crunch and have to leave for 8 days tomorrow night....[image: post-27845-0-98742500-1431717496.jpg][image: post-27845-0-69457700-1431717541.jpg][image: post-27845-0-48427200-1431717563.jpg]
I'm looking at page 5-54 of the FSM - there's a gray connector that looks very much like that which connects to the bypass control solenoid - just in front of the fuel pressure regulator. It's difficult to be sure from the photo. If that's it, you'd have to route the wire to the opposite side of the hose leading out of the valve cover.
....it was divine intervention that I had to go back into the throttle bodies because I left all four screws that hold the throttle body on completely loose~
I've got mine mounted in the exact same place, but it's wired into the power leaving the ignition keyswitch, so it automatically goes on and off whenever you start the bike.
No possibility of forgetting it then and draining the battery you're trying to monitor!
I've got mine mounted in the exact same place, but it's wired into the power leaving the ignition keyswitch, so it automatically goes on and off whenever you start the bike.
No possibility of forgetting it then and draining the battery you're trying to monitor!
I was going to do that, but I wanted to be able to check it with the ignition off. Also, it's wired directly to the battery so I have the best indication. I've noticed if I connect thru another system (tail light, for example) that it can read up to 1 full volt less due to aging wiring/corrosion between connectors,grounds, etc.
Thhis volt meter pulls so little amperage it can be on for a couple weeks without any major affect on the battery.
checksix
Now that's nice. Best one I've seen.
Thanks!
I picked up those switches on amazon--10 for $8.00! Same for the volt meter, amazon for @ $8.00 (only 1).
I was going to do that, but I wanted to be able to check it with the ignition off. Also, it's wired directly to the battery so I have the best indication. I've noticed if I connect thru another system (tail light, for example) that it can read up to 1 full volt less due to aging wiring/corrosion between connectors,grounds, etc.
Yes, that is the downside. I checked mine with a multimeter direct to the battery and I see about 0.6 volt less the way mine is wired in.
Shit. I got the starter solenoid installed & now every time I put a 30 amp fuse in the main fuse holder it blows immediately. Time to start testing wiring with the multimeter.
This is SERIOUSLY eating into my summer riding.... :-(
Got a replacement wiring harness & swapped it out this weekend. 90% done but I'm going to be out of town all week for work so won't be able to finish until next week....
OK, got the new (used) wiring harness installed, everything is working EXCEPT the fuel pump doesn't prime. Checked 30 amp fuse in the starter relay & it's good.
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