Bought the bike used (5th Gen), so I can't say for sure, but I think they are the original radiator hoses. I am not having any issues with them, but I can't help but think being 17 years old that they should probably be replaced?
How long will the original hoses typically last?
Are all of the OEM hoses still available? If not, what are my options?
Just examine the hoses for cracking/dry rot, swelling, and damage from things rubbing on them. Don't forget to check around and under the hose clamps for damage. If you are planning on doing a flush, you can pull some of the hoses off and check inside the ends for deterioration and gunk buildup. I've never had a radiator hose let go without any warning, even on vehicles much older than this. Though it depends on how many miles and what kind of storage your bike was given, I think my 17 yr old hoses are it good condition.
You should replace them before they fail, or you could be riding being sprayed with boiling water & a huge cloud of steam. If you have a main hose split the system will vent in seconds & anti-freeze is extremely slippy so if it gets on rear wheel you will lose all grip !
So that's risk, you are right to be worried, when I removed mine at 10 years old, they were all perishing, unlikely to split for a while but I felt much better when they were replaced.
You need to remove the airbox & throttle bodies to get to the thermostat & the hoses attached to it, there are 5 that connect to the thermostat. All the others are easy to get to once the fairings are off.
As mentioned in my "Yellow Peril" build thread, you can also use generic silicone hoses and bends, rather than fit a kit. There is one that is problematic, however, as it has slightly different IDs on each end (I think it is the one that wraps around the front of the stator housing), but mine doesn't seem to leak. Should be cheaper than the Samco set, but maybe not by enough to justify risking the potential leak.
Best I can tell is there are 13 hoses? Is this correct? If so, how many of the 13 are actually necessary? I ask this because the Radiator Parts Fiche and Water Pump Parts Fiche show some breather and vaccuum hoses as well as the water hoses.
The following list is what I was able to find (13 parts). Am I missing something?
As mentioned in my "Yellow Peril" build thread, you can also use generic silicone hoses and bends, rather than fit a kit. There is one that is problematic, however, as it has slightly different IDs on each end (I think it is the one that wraps around the front of the stator housing), but mine doesn't seem to leak. Should be cheaper than the Samco set, but maybe not by enough to justify risking the potential leak.
Ciao,
The leak is caused by the input stub to the head at approx 10 o'clock as you look at the alternator housing. It's not 25mm/1" like all the other main hose connectors. To fix this, I added a single piece of heatshrink on the stub & shrunk it in place with a hair dryer. This makes the stub 25mm OD. Had that on mine for 3 years & no leaks !
As mentioned in my "Yellow Peril" build thread, you can also use generic silicone hoses and bends, rather than fit a kit. There is one that is problematic, however, as it has slightly different IDs on each end (I think it is the one that wraps around the front of the stator housing), but mine doesn't seem to leak. Should be cheaper than the Samco set, but maybe not by enough to justify risking the potential leak.
Ciao,
The leak is caused by the input stub to the head at approx 10 o'clock as you look at the alternator housing. It's not 25mm/1" like all the other main hose connectors. To fix this, I added a single piece of heatshrink on the stub & shrunk it in place with a hair dryer. This makes the stub 25mm OD. Had that on mine for 3 years & no leaks !
I'll source some large ID heatshrink and have a go. Sounds like a neat solution to me.
As long as you have it all apart, yes. And don't forget a new radiator cap as well.
Why a new radiator cap?
They deteriorate over time (rubber seal deteriorates - spring loses tension) and lose their ability to hold pressure. There have been threads about overheating that were solved with a new cap. They're cheap and a new one is good preventive maintenance.
What do you use to clean out all that gunk ? Just a toothbrush and soapy water, or something else? I'd like to get mine cleaned up but I'm not sure what's safe to use around all the fittings and electrical connectors.
Here are the relevant pages from the 4th g FSM . . . It looks as though there is 1 hose from each head flowing in to the thermostat. Straight forward compared to the rat's nest of plumbing that the side mount rad bikes have.
What do you use to clean out all that gunk ? Just a toothbrush and soapy water, or something else? I'd like to get mine cleaned up but I'm not sure what's safe to use around all the fittings and electrical connectors.
Due to the problem of corrosion I don't recommend using soap and water
to clean your bikes ever... I first dry brushed the big stuff then use
an acid brush and Acetone for all the nook and crannies and finally 3M
micro fine abrasive pad soaked in Acetone to bring a luster to the metal...
I just replaced all the hoses in the v and the two to the wax thingy and the thermostat. I figured while fixing a leak I'd replace stuff, preventative maintenance. It wasn't bad but did take time. I also had to custom fit two of the hoses that i didn't get from honda. While in there a K&N went in, replaced the coolant and oil. I figure i can reach all the other hoses on the outside of the motor.
The two short hoses underneath the carbs on a 3rd-4th gen are not especially curved--you could easily replace them with short sections of straight hose. I was going to do just that until racebikebitz offered to send me those two hoses from their SAMCO kit.
I still have yet to do this project. Probably going to buy OEM parts, but might consider SAMCO hoses if all of the hoses are there. Does anyone know to which OEM part numbers these SAMCO hoses correspond? Also seems like there are a few missing, no?
Is it possible to check for leaks and dynamic (engine on) pressure test the system without having to reassemble everything (put throttle bodies and airbox back on) so I don't have to pull everything apart again if there is a leak?
I am finally getting around to doing this project. I just ordered all of the parts, but received an email from Motosport stating that the part # 19504-MBG-000 is no longer available. I looked around and could not find it on any other websites either. This particular part is the top straight hose between the radiators (5th Gen) and shouldn't be too hard to find another option, considering it is a straight piece of hose. However, all the other hoses are labeled "waiting on inventory" which leads me to believe they may not be available any longer as well.
What are my options in terms of replacing hoses for an aging 5th Gen if the OEM hoses are not available? I am aware of the SAMCO option, but have heard it may not include all of the hoses, some pieces may be too short plus it is very expensive.
Mohawk replaced his 5th gen's hoses with standard-size silicone hoses and elbows. I can't find the thread, but I think I linked to the post in my Beware the Yellow Peril build thread. There is one hose that has a slightly different ID on each end, but Mohawk's solution was to apply some heatshrink wrap to the water pump or whatever it was, but I didn't and didn't get a leak.
2. How do I dynamic (engine on) pressure test and the system to check for leaks without having to reassemble everything (put throttle bodies and airbox back on) so I don't have to pull everything apart again if there is a leak?
2. How do I pressure test and check the system for leaks without having to reassemble everything (put throttle bodies and airbox back on) so I don't have to pull everything apart again if there is a leak?
You need to email Grif :http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/user/23210-gig/
Bought the bike used (5th Gen), so I can't say for sure, but I think they are the original radiator hoses. I am not having any issues with them, but I can't help but think being 17 years old that they should probably be replaced?
The part on their website is € 19,50 ($21 USD) + VAT € 27,50 ($30 USD) = € 47,00 ($51 USD). In my opinion $51 for one hose is a bit extreme. And that price doesn't include any possible customs/duties cost, so the overall cost would be even more.
Does anybody know if#22 HOSE, RADIATOR MIDDLE (UPPER) 19504-MCW-D00 from the 6th Gen will fit the 5th Gen?
Same goes for the #9 CAP, RADIATOR 19037-GEE-710, will it fit a 5th Gen?
Not sure about the parts interchange, however I do distinctly recall that on the 6th gen Toro Supercharger kit a 5th gen right side rad was required. The 5th gen rad was connected to the stock 6th gen hose so the outlet diameters should be compatible. Also, since it's confirmed that a 5th gen engine will bolt directly in to a 6th gen frame, the distance between the 2 rads should be very close if not the same. So for around $20, it might be worth a shot if the 5th gen hose is not available.
The part on their website is € 19,50 ($21 USD) + VAT € 27,50 ($30 USD) = € 47,00 ($51 USD). In my opinion $51 for one hose is a bit extreme. And that price doesn't include any possible customs/duties cost, so the overall cost would be even more.
I didn't say it made sense, I just said it was available!
Personally, I'd replace them all with silicone hoses. Of course, I did just that!
If they're steel bolts in to threaded aluminum (such as on heads / engine case, etc), if nothing is specified I use the same as for the bolts on the stator / clutch covers - IIRC 9 ft lbs.
I ended up using my wrist torque wrench. Tighten until it stops and then let my wrist gently tell me she is done. Hopefully that will be OK.
The water joints have O-rings. I cleaned the mounting surfaces with a cloth the best I could. There was some minor debris from the old o-Ring and a little corrosion from the coolant left on the mounting surface. I didn't use any solvents as I was afraid residual would end up on the o-ring and negatively affect it. Also on one of the water joints the mounting didn't have that usual slight bit of resistance before tightening (caused by the o-ring). It basically felt like it just mounted flush from the start and one of the bolts basically felt like it bottomed out and didn't have much resistance before it was tight. Hope this isn't an indicator that it isn't sealed.
Edited November 16, 2015 by Corkey
End of thread · 42 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 12 Sep 2017