Saw where probolt had a sale on some disc bolts, add is on there Facebook, also might try titanclassics, prices and shipping seam to be the best I've found
Titanium is fine, provided the bolts are not low-quality/flawed in some way. Stainless is not recommended for critical applications (as brakes are!) Where did you find these bolts?
Larry, you need to put together a "race kit" for the RC46 with most of the upgrades you've done for the RC45, maybe offer it in a $3K, $5K and $10K set? Not an HRC kit, a BLS kit!
Those brakes look awesome. Id love em but not sure id be able to justify the price haha.
Just a quick question. I've had my wheels powdercoated lately, obviously I've had to take the discs off.
I've put some loc-tite on each disc bolt and torqued them up to the required torque doing the opposite sides and i plan to retorque them (and everythin else) in 100 miles or so.
But then i read on a few different websites (not this one) that itd be advisable to put new disc bolts in and not use the old ones.
Anybody else do this? Or do i not need to worry with what I've done?
I've seen some on ebay n theyre about £50 and £80 for race titanium ones. Seems ridiculous money for a few bolts.
*** #1, Do what you feel is best for you and your brakes.***
/disclaimer
Honda says to buy new ones. Some people think that is has to do with the bolts stretching to yield, like cylinder head bolts.
I'm not a metallurgist, but I have a hard time swallowing that, owing to the fact that the bolts are anchored into the aluminum rim.
I think the female threads in the softer aluminum rim would yield before the steel bolts would. Just my guess.
Having said that, I personally believe the reason Honda says to use new bolts is a combination of CYA from the legal dep't, and also the fact that the OEM bolts are treated with a dry threadlocking agent from new.
I've always applied blue locktite on the rotor bolts when re-using them. I also never retorque them, otherwise you're disturbing the locktite after it has set up.
Never had a rotor bolt break or come loose ever, since 1984. YMMV.
Those brakes look awesome. Id love em but not sure id be able to justify the price haha.
Just a quick question. I've had my wheels powdercoated lately, obviously I've had to take the discs off.
I've put some loc-tite on each disc bolt and torqued them up to the required torque doing the opposite sides and i plan to retorque them (and everythin else) in 100 miles or so.
But then i read on a few different websites (not this one) that itd be advisable to put new disc bolts in and not use the old ones.
Anybody else do this? Or do i not need to worry with what I've done?
I've seen some on ebay n theyre about £50 and £80 for race titanium ones. Seems ridiculous money for a few bolts.
Cheers!
Agreed, but Its cheaper than these options, and the pic from the original post does not look like a rotor specific bolt.
Hmm thats true about breaking the loc-tite isnt it. I never thought of that!
Hmm. I think I'll leave it be n just check if any are noticeably loose in a few miles.
Im not overly bothered about shaving 36grams haha. £45 still seems alot for a little bolt, but I'll pay it if i have any issues. Cant put a price on safety n all that!
Well, there's some debate about whether you "ought to" replace disc bolts or not. Honda's repair manuals generally say you should, but the question is whether they say that because the locking compount cannot be re-used, or because the fastener is supposed to stretch slightly upon installation. However, if you use titanium instead, you eliminate the entire question of whether the OEM steel bolts should be re-used or not.
I'm less impressed with "4.5gm each!" than I am with "£5 each!" from TitanClassics... At least the Dutch ones mentioned earlier are only EUR1.80 (£1.30/$1.90) each!
Dutchy say's it, its te cleaner look i'm after. The originals do corrode after a while and that is the mean reason that i'm looking for other options.
So looking for new bolts, then i saw these titanium ones For the same price as originals!
My only concern is that these bolts are a little bit different, the head is a bit less thicker then on the originals and there is no threat on the last 5 mm. is that a problem ?