What Chain Lube To Use?

I am new to VFRs, I have a 5th gen and this is my first chain driven bike. What do you recommend as a chain lube? I have read good things about the dupont teflon chain saver. But then I read it was discontinued. So I dont know what I should be looking to buy.

Any help is appreciated.

I've been using the Dupont teflon chain saver since I purchased my VFR. I have 32K miles on the original chain and sprockets. I prefer the squeeze bottle over the spray. Hope it hasn't been discontinued.

Any lube is good IF you use it correctly. Start with a very clean chain by using rags and kerosene (harsher chemicals can damage the o-rings), let dry and apply the product.

Choice of product is kinda' a religion with some. I've gone the gamut over the years and now just use wd-40. Why? Because it's a works well as both a light duty cleaner and protector and it has many other uses around the house. I lube via a quick wipe down after rides longer than 30ish miles. Put bike on centerstand in neutral, spray wd40 liberally on a rag, spin the tire clockwise while letting the bottom run of the chain run thru the damp rag. Only takes a minute or two, the chain always looks great because you cleaned and lubed at the same time, and minimum fling. This method also has the direction of the chain spinning backwards so you won't get your fingers possibly caught up in the rear sprocket.

DuPont's "Teflon Chain-Saver" has not been discontinued. You can buy it on Amazon or at Walmart today.

Sample listing: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B0VDC2

DuPont has offered a few products in this space and that is likely the source of some confusion. The products include:

1. Teflon Multi-Use Dry, Wax Lubricant

2. Teflon Multi-Use Lubricant

3. Teflon Chain-Saver

#1 was a favorite of some (note the "Dry, Wax" distinction between #1 and #2). I believe this is the product that has been discontinued.

More on this here: http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/dupont-motorcycle-chain-lube-2012/

See also these VFRD threads regarding chain lubrication:

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/74244-help-need-chain-lube-advice/

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/64916-how-often-do-you-clean-lube-your-chain

Big fan of the Scottoiler. Not a cheap setup, but definitely as easy for maintenance and care as can be. I've had great success with my V system. Used same on my prior 5th gen. Worth the dosh = ease of maintenance, long chain life. Extremely good ROI for the oil cost. And though it can make a mess if you set it too high, cleans up easy. (Compared to regular chain product)

Dave.

I use a Dupont Teflon spray on my chains and it works great and doesn't attract a bunch of gunk or fly off on the bike. Good stuff!

fonque

I am new to VFRs, I have a 5th gen and this is my first chain driven bike. What do you recommend as a chain lube? I have read good things about the dupont teflon chain saver. But then I read it was discontinued. So I dont know what I should be looking to buy.

Any help is appreciated.

RobF

DuPont's "Teflon Chain-Saver" has not been continued. You can buy it on Amazon or at Walmart today.

Sample listing: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B0VDC2

DuPont has offered a few products in this space and that is likely the source of some confusion. The products include:

1. Teflon Multi-Use Dry, Wax Lubricant

2. Teflon Multi-Use Lubricant

3. Teflon Chain-Saver

#1 was a favorite of some (note the "Dry, Wax" distinction between #1 and #2). I believe this is the product that has been discontinued.

I think you meant "has not been DIScontinued"

Yeah, sadly, the dry wax variety is history.

Interesting, the "Teflon Multi-Use Lubricant" has disappeared from the shelves at Lowes, and other sources of it seem to cost twice as much. Annoying, since it's a useful product regardless.

The chain saver variety seems OK but I have no real data, personally. It doesn't seem to resist grime quite as much. Which is very important to me, living in what I'm pretty sure is the most grimy city in the country, where the only way to keep a vehicle clean is to brush off the dirt every few hours.

Rectaltronics

RobF

DuPont's "Teflon Chain-Saver" has not been continued. You can buy it on Amazon or at Walmart today.

I think you meant "has not been DIScontinued"

Yes. Corrected now.

Can you get Wurth Dry Chain Lube over there?

I used to use a Scottoiler but even on low settings it flung the lube too much so I changed to Wurth. Very good product.

90 weight gear oil. Provides best protection against sprocket & chain wear.

I think I'm going to clean up the chain with kerosene, then moisturize it with chain spray. I found done at a local Wal-Mart. this will hold me over until I get one of the scottoiler systems. My bday is coming up. it's either that or some Daytona boots.

thanks for the info!

for those that installed the Scottoiler, where did you mount the tank?

TNRabbit

90 weight gear oil. Provides best protection against sprocket & chain wear.

Also, this is what the owners manual calls for. See pages 135 - 141 for complete chain care recommendations, including how to clean (and not clean) the chain. Solvents NOT recommend to clean an o-ring chain.

FotoMoto

Any lube is good IF you use it correctly. Start with a very clean chain by using rags and kerosene (harsher chemicals can damage the o-rings), let dry and apply the product.

Choice of product is kinda' a religion with some. I've gone the gamut over the years and now just use wd-40. Why? Because it's a works well as both a light duty cleaner and protector and it has many other uses around the house. I lube via a quick wipe down after rides longer than 30ish miles. Put bike on centerstand in neutral, spray wd40 liberally on a rag, spin the tire clockwise while letting the bottom run of the chain run thru the damp rag. Only takes a minute or two, the chain always looks great because you cleaned and lubed at the same time, and minimum fling. This method also has the direction of the chain spinning backwards so you won't get your fingers possibly caught up in the rear sprocket.

I use a pizza box with the lid positioned behind the chain (cut to suit and lined with newspaper on the bottom) and spray the WD-40 directly on the lower run of the chain while spinning the wheel. Then I wipe off the excess with a rag. Quick and easy.

auggius

FotoMoto

I use a pizza box with the lid positioned behind the chain (cut to suit and lined with newspaper on the bottom) and spray the WD-40 directly on the lower run of the chain while spinning the wheel. Then I wipe off the excess with a rag. Quick and easy.

I use whatever comes to hand to do the same thing. On the road something can usually be found in local trash cans. Soda cases, news papers, etc.

So I checked the FSM and it says "Clean the chain with non-flammable or high flash point solvent and wipe it dry". Does kerosene and WD-40 fit this description?

and as far as the oil "Lubricate the drive chain with #80 - #90 gear oil or Pro Honda chain lube designed specfically for use with O-ring chains."

I actually have alot of 90wt gear oil at home because My CX500 uses it in the final drive.

So Kerosene and 90wt gear oil?

MaxSwell

auggius

FotoMoto

I use a pizza box with the lid positioned behind the chain (cut to suit and lined with newspaper on the bottom) and spray the WD-40 directly on the lower run of the chain while spinning the wheel. Then I wipe off the excess with a rag. Quick and easy.

I use whatever comes to hand to do the same thing. On the road something can usually be found in local trash cans. Soda cases, news papers, etc.

If you've got a buddy with you it's even easier. Just ask them to spin the wheel (backwards, naturally) while you hold a rag under the chain and spray the WD-40.

TNRabbit

90 weight gear oil. Provides best protection against sprocket & chain wear.

I also use 90 wt oil. I never need to clean the chain - just a wipedown is all it takes to keep it looking good. I use a Zoom Spout to apply it - let's me get it right where I want it. It also makes it easy to carry on trips - never has leaked a drop.

[image: M_60914_8470578.jpg]

Somebody may have already posted this:

http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcycle-chain-lube-reviews/

I have been using Dupont's Multi-purpose teflon lube for several years. Evidently it's been discontinued so when I run out I will be looking to replace it with a similar dry lube.

ChasingNolan

I have been using Dupont's Multi-purpose teflon lube for several years. Evidently it's been discontinued so when I run out I will be looking to replace it with a similar dry lube.

That's another advantage of using WD-40. If you forgot to bring some on your trip you can get it just about anywhere. No need to change your routine.

auggius

ChasingNolan

I have been using Dupont's Multi-purpose teflon lube for several years. Evidently it's been discontinued so when I run out I will be looking to replace it with a similar dry lube.

That's another advantage of using WD-40. If you forgot to bring some on your trip you can get it just about anywhere. No need to change your routine.

You can also get 90W anywhere. :-)

It has been said by many that WD-40 isn't much of a lubricant.

The literature calls it a penetrating oil.

Which might explain some folks' complaints that it tends to wash the lube out from inside motorcycle chain's O-rings. Which is not good.

Note well the warnings about washing out that lubricant in webBikeWorld's review of Tirox.

Others swear by WD-40! Go figure. What WD-40 does do really well is clean stuff so that's probably have the battle. It's an amazing solvent. Oh, wait, wasn't that supposed to be bad too? I'm SO confused.

As always, YMMV...

DuPont does have a follow-on dry-lube product meant specifically for O-ring drive chains. I'm pretty sure that was mentioned here a few days ago.

-Brad

I use Heavy film base lubricant mainly for sprocket wear, not really chain wear, Dry lubes, no lubes or wd40, does nothing for sprocket tooth life, as it doesn't provide that thick film cushion that's needed, to prevent or greatly reduce metal to metal contact.

I use DuPont teflon chain saver. However, for the WD-40 folks, this is directly from their website, and yes, I know they are speaking about bicycles:

Bike Friendly

Myth: WD-40® Multi-Use Product should not be used on bike chains.

Fact: While WD-40® Multi-Use Product it is not a grease, it is formulated with strong lubricating oils and other ingredients, and is a terrific product to use for bike maintenance. It does not attract dirt or moisture to metal surfaces – just be sure to wipe off any excess WD-40® Multi-Use Product before riding.

For long-term lubrication and other specialized bicycle maintenance needs, check out WD-40® BIKE. Developed specifically for cyclists and mechanics, this high-performance line of bicycle care products is sure to become a mainstay in the toolboxes of bike mechanics for decades.

http://wd40.com/cool-stuff/myths-legends-fun-facts

And near the bottom specific to motorcycles:

http://wd40.com/uses-tips/lubricate/all?p=41

This subject is like oil. Just keep the chain clean by cleaning it often.

I've been using Bel-Ray Super Clean because my local MC shop carries it in stock. It goes on white and dries quickly. When the chain doesn't look 'white' anymore, I re-apply. The wife has 15k on her chain and it's still got plenty of life left... but she rides like old lady so YMMV. I've been thinking about switching to DuPont Chain Saver or Maxima Chain Wax, but it's something I would have to order from Amazon.

Keep it clean and keep it lubed. I clean with WD40 and use whatever lube is convenient - chain wax, motul chain lube, someting in a green can that I won at the last T-Mac.

I recall decades ago, Dirt Bike magazine did a test of different chain lubes. This included a temperature reading after using the chain lube, WD-40 was waaaay low on the list of good lubricants. The chain ran extremely hot with WD-40. A lot of the specific "no fling" brands did really good and if memory serves me right, PJ1 Blue label was high up on the list. Of course this IS several decades ago, so formulas and players may have changed but as a lubricant WD-40 isn't one of the best, but does great for cleaning the chain, especially after washing your bike, it's water displacement properties is good for getting water out of the links.

Unfortunately I'd be hard pressed to find the article as I don't have my old stack of magazines anymore and this was way before the digital age! As what was said before, keeping it clean and lubed with (insert your brand here) is the key to longer chain life. Which reminds me, my bikes over due for a wash and lube session.

Duc2V4

I recall decades ago, Dirt Bike magazine did a test of different chain lubes. This included a temperature reading after using the chain lube, WD-40 was waaaay low on the list of good lubricants. The chain ran extremely hot with WD-40. A lot of the specific "no fling" brands did really good and if memory serves me right, PJ1 Blue label was high up on the list. Of course this IS several decades ago, so formulas and players may have changed but as a lubricant WD-40 isn't one of the best, but does great for cleaning the chain, especially after washing your bike, it's water displacement properties is good for getting water out of the links.

Unfortunately I'd be hard pressed to find the article as I don't have my old stack of magazines anymore and this was way before the digital age! As what was said before, keeping it clean and lubed with (insert your brand here) is the key to longer chain life. Which reminds me, my bikes over due for a wash and lube session.

I use DuPont teflon chain lube (the old formula blue can and now the yellow can) because it dries clear and has good ratings. I do use WD-40 to clean the chain sometimes, mainly because kerosene isn't readily available locally, nor is the DuPont chain cleaner in the red can. I posted the WD-40 info because the website says it's safe to clean the chain and because WD-40 as a lube is better than nothing.

Duc2V4

I recall decades ago, Dirt Bike magazine did a test of different chain lubes. This included a temperature reading after using the chain lube, WD-40 was waaaay low on the list of good lubricants. The chain ran extremely hot with WD-40. A lot of the specific "no fling" brands did really good and if memory serves me right, PJ1 Blue label was high up on the list. Of course this IS several decades ago, so formulas and players may have changed but as a lubricant WD-40 isn't one of the best, but does great for cleaning the chain, especially after washing your bike, it's water displacement properties is good for getting water out of the links.

Unfortunately I'd be hard pressed to find the article as I don't have my old stack of magazines anymore and this was way before the digital age! As what was said before, keeping it clean and lubed with (insert your brand here) is the key to longer chain life. Which reminds me, my bikes over due for a wash and lube session.

I remember PJ1 Blue Label. Very heavy stuff, so no wonder it rated well.

It was also a dirt magnet, which was a nightmare in a place with so much filth as NYC.

I was picked to test Motul's new Chain Paste and after 1400 miles I
believe it's the smartest product on the market and the right solution
everyone has been looking to *properly* lube their chain and sprockets
because it brushes a layer of white grease like from the factory that
clings with no flings...

Motul Chain Paste... squeeze the white grease from the tube and load
the brush...
[image: MotulChainPaste2_zpsb22b6b29.jpg]

Hold the loaded brush to the inside of the chain rollers to transfer
the white grease...
[[image: MotulChainPaste5_zps08669024.jpg]

After a couple of spins of the chain it's lubed like from the
Factory...
[image: MotulChainPaste1_zps9b86300d.jpg]

Motul Chain Paste clings with no flings...
[image: MotulChainPaste3_zpsbe8c4652.jpg]
[image: MotulChainPaste4_zpsad4f43ed.jpg]

I wish to thank my new friend Joey / Motul Manager for the opportunity
to participate in their free trial offer... I'm sold...
[image: MrRC45Joey1_zps57c06579.jpg]

BusyLittleShop

I was picked to test Motul's new Chain Paste and after 1400 miles I believe it's the smartest product on the market and the right solution everyone has been looking to *properly* lube their chain and sprockets because it brushes a layer of white grease like from the factory that clings with no flings...

WD-40, great for noisy hinges, cleaning and darkening black plastic things, removing stickers and goo, etc. It is AWFUL for O / X ring chains. As a penetrating oil it dilutes the grease inside the links and allows it escape past the ring, defeating the whole purpose of the design. I know many on here swear by it, however, it is a chain killer. I used various "chain waxes" for years and they seemed to work fine. I switched to the DuPont products 3-4 years ago and they seem to work fine as well, they are Very well reviewed and at Walmart it costs about half of the "Powersport Brands"(Motul, Maxxis, etc.) The current version of the Dupont product, Chain Saver, IS a bit "wetter" but it does not make a mess of the bike. It lasts relatively long, 300-500 miles and goes on easily.

PACIFICMAN

WD-40, great for noisy hinges, cleaning and darkening black plastic things, removing stickers and goo, etc. It is AWFUL for O / X ring chains. As a penetrating oil it dilutes the grease inside the links and allows it escape past the ring, defeating the whole purpose of the design. I know many on here swear by it, however, it is a chain killer. I used various "chain waxes" for years and they seemed to work fine. I switched to the DuPont products 3-4 years ago and they seem to work fine as well, they are Very well reviewed and at Walmart it costs about half of the "Powersport Brands"(Motul, Maxxis, etc.) The current version of the Dupont product, Chain Saver, IS a bit "wetter" but it does not make a mess of the bike. It lasts relatively long, 300-500 miles and goes on easily.

My lifelong mechanic father's penetrating oil is a concoction of kerosene and motor oil in an old Palmolive squeeze bottle. It works better than PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, WD-40 penetrant, etc. Kerosene has volatiles that "penetrate" just fine. The problem with o-rings isn't the penetrant, it's the decomposition affect a chemical may have on it, or else kerosene would "wash away the lube inside the o-rings" just like anything else. Kerosene and WD-40 (which is mostly a Stoddard Solvant/Mineral Spirits type chemical), etc. do not harm o-rings but they both will penetrate the crap out of stuff.

Since they changed the recipe for the DuPont spray chain wax, I've had good luck with the Cycle Gear Moto Pro stuff (Moly and Teflon). One of my riding bodies swears by the CRC white lithium grease spray from Walmart-less than $4.

BusyLittleShop

I was picked to test Motul's new Chain Paste and after 1400 miles I

believe it's the smartest product on the market and the right solution

everyone has been looking to *properly* lube their chain and sprockets

because it brushes a layer of white grease like from the factory that

clings with no flings...

Motul Chain Paste... squeeze the white grease from the tube and load

the brush...

[image: MotulChainPaste2_zpsb22b6b29.jpg]

Hold the loaded brush to the inside of the chain rollers to transfer

the white grease...

[[image: MotulChainPaste5_zps08669024.jpg]

After a couple of spins of the chain it's lubed like from the

Factory...

[image: MotulChainPaste1_zps9b86300d.jpg]

Motul Chain Paste clings with no flings...

[image: MotulChainPaste3_zpsbe8c4652.jpg]

[image: MotulChainPaste4_zpsad4f43ed.jpg]

I wish to thank my new friend Joey / Motul Manager for the opportunity

to participate in their free trial offer... I'm sold...

[image: MrRC45Joey1_zps57c06579.jpg]

Look interesting esp for touring. How many uses do you think you'll get out of a tube? Unfortunately, I just restocked up on a few cans of Maxima Chain wax.

I purchased this based on the reviews and found it to be all that they said it is. Clean, no fling and lasts. The best I've ever used and I have been riding for 34 years.

http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/motorcycle-chain-lube/liquid-performance-chain-lube/

[image: post-24160-0-75661500-1445478766.jpg]

Figured I throw this in for giggles.

http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/chain-lube-101

I really wish I could find that chain lube test article, they really went all out. Even though the test was done quite a while ago, it really showed the length they went to to come up with what was good and bad about the lubricants.

Another video from motorcyclist magazine regarding chain maintenance, more specifically, myth busting of the dangers of WD-40. and o-rings.

http://tinyurl.com/hdzqjog

BusyLittleShop

I was picked to test Motul's new Chain Paste and after 1400 miles I

believe it's the smartest product on the market and the right solution

everyone has been looking to *properly* lube their chain and sprockets

because it brushes a layer of white grease like from the factory that

clings with no flings...

Motul Chain Paste... squeeze the white grease from the tube and load

the brush...

[image: MotulChainPaste2_zpsb22b6b29.jpg]

Hold the loaded brush to the inside of the chain rollers to transfer

the white grease...

[[image: MotulChainPaste5_zps08669024.jpg]

After a couple of spins of the chain it's lubed like from the

Factory...

[image: MotulChainPaste1_zps9b86300d.jpg]

Motul Chain Paste clings with no flings...

[image: MotulChainPaste3_zpsbe8c4652.jpg]

[image: MotulChainPaste4_zpsad4f43ed.jpg]

I wish to thank my new friend Joey / Motul Manager for the opportunity

to participate in their free trial offer... I'm sold...

[image: MrRC45Joey1_zps57c06579.jpg]

I think there is a seismic shift in the Earth's crust. I actually agree with a BLS post - first time for everything.

I also got a tube (it's like a toothpaste sized - maybe a bit larger) of Motul chain paste. It's really good. I think you'd get 4-5 applications and it absolutely does not attract anything, add colour or white film like waxy ones, and is about the same price - about $12-15 per tube. Really good stuff. They have onroad and offroad varieties. Worth a try!

Duc2V4

Another video from motorcyclist magazine regarding chain maintenance, more specifically, myth busting of the dangers of WD-40. and o-rings.

http://tinyurl.com/hdzqjog

I think the ongoing discussions of WD-40 on O-ring changes may have distorted the nature of the issue. I don't really recall anyone claiming that WD-40 would directly harm the O-rings. The issue was that WD-40, which is a terrific solvent with remarkable capillary qualities, while efficiently washing crud from your chain would also wash the OEM's lubricant out from within the chambers created by the O-rings and end up reducing the life of the O-rings and the chain due to lack of lubrication.

For that video to be worth the time I wasted watching it, it needs an in-use chain life test with scientifically controlled real-life conditions applied following the use of WD-40 versus other maintenance products, i.e. rain, puddles of dirty water, blowing beach sand, urban airborne pollution, demolition and construction grit, etc.

And Henning makes it clear that WD-40 is not a lubricant.

Rectaltronics

Duc2V4

Another video from motorcyclist magazine regarding chain maintenance, more specifically, myth busting of the dangers of WD-40. and o-rings.

http://tinyurl.com/hdzqjog

I think the ongoing discussions of WD-40 on O-ring changes may have distorted the nature of the issue. I don't really recall anyone claiming that WD-40 would directly harm the O-rings. The issue was that WD-40, which is a terrific solvent with remarkable capillary qualities, while efficiently washing crud from your chain would also wash the OEM's lubricant out from within the chambers created by the O-rings and end up reducing the life of the O-rings and the chain due to lack of lubrication.

For that video to be worth the time I wasted watching it, it needs an in-use chain life test with scientifically controlled real-life conditions applied following the use of WD-40 versus other maintenance products, i.e. rain, puddles of dirty water, blowing beach sand, urban airborne pollution, demolition and construction grit, etc.

And Henning makes it clear that WD-40 is not a lubricant.

I posted the link because I know some of us use WD-40 as a cleaner and some even use it as a lubricant, which it is not (as stated in the video) and this was to show that it is a viable chain cleaner. Although not on this forum, one of the others that I frequent, a member went as far as to say that WD-40 rusted his chain! The main part of WD-40 that has me prefer it as a cleaner is its water displacement properties. Since I usually wash my bike using mild soap and water, I will give the chain a good dose of WD to help clean and displace any water.

I really wish one of the motorcycling publications would do a chain lube shoot out again. The one I referred to earlier in this thread was great, albeit it was done more than 20 years ago, but was pretty informative. Not only did they test all of the different name brand lubes, the also included the oldie but goodies, 3in1 Oil, WD-40, gear oil and if memory serves me right, even transmission fluid. They would run the bike with the lube and then take temperature readings and other data.

Scotoiler and

[image: post-8974-0-11103600-1452937263.jpg]

Motorex Strong from Cycle Gear.

Nobody reads the owners manual? It says 90W gear oil! And it's cheap.

1 hour ago, tbillyjoe

Nobody reads the owners manual? It says 90W gear oil! And it's cheap.

What?! Break a major man rule and read the manual? Besides, we don't hear you until you've done an intro post...with pics of course. Welcome Aboard BTW.

2 hours ago, tbillyjoe

Nobody reads the owners manual? It says 90W gear oil! And it's cheap.

Jeez - first post?  -- A bunch of us group of guys on this forum is probly the most tech savy motorcycle geeks of any forum on the planet. 

Me - virgin olive oil of course....(as Duc said start a new thread and post up your bike. Welcome.)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00YP58XEG/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1470511621&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=dupont+teflon+chain-saver&dpPl=1&dpID=411EWXGdn8L&ref=plSrch#immersive-view_1470511652024

They carry it at all Lowes

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

2015 at 0:11 PM, MaxSwell, October 17

Also, this is what the owners manual calls for. See pages 135 - 141 for complete chain care recommendations, including how to clean (and not clean) the chain. Solvents NOT recommend to clean an o-ring chain.

Why do you have to be so logical??  ; )

Chain wax, apply on warm chain and wipe off excess. It is much cleaner and easier to wipe off the rims with WD40

[image: _Chain_Wax.jpg]

Maxima chain wax as well.  Good stuff, minimal fling if you apply it to a warm chain and let it set as instructed.

maxredline, 8/8/2016 at 9:48 PM

Chain wax, apply on warm chain and wipe off excess. It is much cleaner and easier to wipe off the rims with WD40

A Chain Wax company representative asked me to try their product... "Sure", I said "but first it must pass my simple test."   I opened my oil filler cap and poked the red tube inside and pretended to squirt the paraffin based product... the rep halted the experiment with a warning "you're going to gum up the engine." He is right... Paraffin based products are good at protecting against rust but the penalty is a gummy chain... 
 

tbillyjoe, 8/6/2016 at 8:03 AM

Nobody reads the owners manual? It says 90W gear oil! And it's cheap.

It's also what was recommended by DID on the box with the replacement chain I got from them - ZVMX 530.  Using 90 wt gear oil, I never clean the chain except for a brief wipe down when it's oiled. True, the wheel does collect some, but it's removed easily and the chain is spotless.   I find that easier than scrubbing a layer of gooey grit off it every so often and I never need to use solvents.   

I use something called "Würth High Performance Dry Chain Lube".  I have no idea if it works, and I don't care.  It is clean!

Gear oil works, but is messy, as is Chain Wax, as is traditional sticky "chain lube"...which all of my bikes' POs always seem to have used for the bike's entire previous life (and they never cleaned any of it off).  :blush:

Ciao,

If you want the most power use 90 wt synthetic gear oil but it's messy...

If you want your chain to smell nice use WD-40 but it's about good as spit as a lubricator...

It you want your chain to look cool use Chain wax but it's gummy and cost horse power...

Sorry no product yet Lubes like 90 synthetic... smells like WD-40 and looks cool like Chain Wax...

I use escalator chain and pin oil. An industrial chain lubricant. It's pretty similar to gear oil I guess. I can't believe how much easier it is to wipe off the bike than horrible gooey spray. My mates XJR has 23000 on the clock and this oil is all he's ever used.His chain and sprockets have plenty of life left. I apply it with an oil can and let it soak in, then wipe the excess off. 

Cogswell, 14/08/2016 at 6:36 AM

It's also what was recommended by DID on the box with the replacement chain I got from them - ZVMX 530.  Using 90 wt gear oil, I never clean the chain except for a brief wipe down when it's oiled. True, the wheel does collect some, but it's removed easily and the chain is spotless.   I find that easier than scrubbing a layer of gooey grit off it every so often and I never need to use solvents.   

I agree completely. Chain wax is horrible stuff, it's all I used to use, but now I use an industrial lubricant from work similar to gear oil, much better. Chain is like new! 

I'm a Scottoiler guy.  My first ZX14 had 22k miles on the chain and it still looked new.  My VFR has the newer style scottoiler with the handlebar mounted display/controller, and it's worked great.  Easier to carry some wipes to keep your wheels clean than carrying chain lube everywhere.  It's great in bad weather where lots of rain will wash your chain lube off, you just dial in a higher lube rate for a while and keep riding.

tbillyjoe Nobody reads the owners manual? It says 90W gear oil! And it's cheap.

21 hours ago, Aegisranger

I'm a Scottoiler guy.  My first ZX14 had 22k miles on the chain and it still looked new.

Mr.Scott may have found a way to make your chain to look new on the
outside but it still goes all rotten in the inside... the only worth one can
expect is the fact that if you coat the chain in enough oil the running temp
is lower where the factory grease has a chance to live longer but oh the price
one pays for that single benefit...

Auto chain oilers where designed for non O ring standard chains back
in the 60s for London Motorcycle Curriers... they were never designed
for O ring chains...

Auto oiler *will not* replenish the factory lube (gray lines) at this critical
junction...  because no amount of external oil (RED) can reach the critical pin

and roller junction behind the X ring to extend its service life... the 4 points

of an X ring are as effective as your fork seals in separating external and internal fluids...

[image: 14746956046_fb75bdf189.jpg]

A modern X ring chains sports 4 low drag contact points which are as
effective as your fork seals in separating external and internal
fluids... that means no amount of external oil (RED) can reach the
critical pin and roller junction behind the X ring to extend its
service life... consequently my definition of a worn out chain is
after the 3rd adjustment because that is undeniable evidence that the
factory installed grease is beginning to fail to lube the critical pin
roller junction hidden behind the X ring... the length of the chain is
growing because of this metal to metal wear... I can not call a chain
serviceable that is grinding metal... it's like saying that a dry
bearing that runs ruff is acceptable... the net result is another 2 to
3% drop in RWHP as more energy is lost grinding metal behind the X
ring...

40 minutes ago, BusyLittleShop

Auto chain oilers where designed for non O ring standard chains back in the 60s for London Motorcycle Curriers... they were never designed for O ring chains...

Auto oiler *will not* replenish the factory lube (gray lines) at this critical junction...  because no amount of external oil (RED) can reach the critical pin and roller junction behind the X ring to extend its service life... the 4 points of an X ring are as effective as your fork seals in separating external and internal fluids...

BLS,

I think I understand the point you are making here, but I'm maybe still a little confused.

1. What, then, are we lubricating when we perform our scheduled chain maintenance?

2. Stipulating that scheduled manual chain lubrication doesn't penetrate the modern o-ring, do we agree that a Scottoiler is a reliable substitute for that prescribed manual lubrication?

If this is so, then the external lube we apply must serve to reduce wear on the sprockets and surfaces of the chain that enter into contact with them?

6 hours ago, BusyLittleShop

 the only worth one can expect is the fact that if you coat the chain in enough oil the running temp is lower where the factory grease has a chance to live longer but oh the price
one pays for that single benefit...

No, that's not the "only worth one can expect"...   Chains that aren't kept lubed get dirty and rusty.  Dirt and rust eat away at the o-ring or x-ring causing it to fail prematurely, which then compromises the internal "factory" grease.  When the dirt or rust get in or the internal grease leaks out, your chain wears out fast.  The scottoiler continually keeps a small amount of fresh, clean oil on the chain, which prevents rust and flings off taking the dirt with it.  Super sticky chain lubes collect dirt which acts as an abrasive paste on the rollers and sprockets.

I've been dealing with chains and sprockets since 1976, over a half-million miles cleaning, lubing, adjusting and replacing them.  My chains and sprockets are lasting longer with the scottoiler than they did before.  YMMV.  Maybe you don't get enough rain in Sacramento to deal with rust, but I'm sure you have dirt there.  Maybe you clean and lube your chains after each trip, but most people don't.  The scottoiler can't extend the life of the chain beyond it's design limits, but it can and does help prevent premature wear due to dirt and rust damage where those issues are prevalent or when the rider doesn't meticulously maintain the chain.

RobF, 9/20/2016 at 2:58 PM

BLS,

I think I understand the point you are making here, but I'm maybe still a little confused.

1. What, then, are we lubricating when we perform our scheduled chain maintenance?

2. Stipulating that scheduled manual chain lubrication doesn't penetrate the modern o-ring, do we agree that a Scottoiler is a reliable substitute for that prescribed manual lubrication?

[image: 14746956046_fb75bdf189.jpg]

We are lubing the external roller and between the roller and the
sprockets (red area in my drawing)... we are not lubing the X rings
nor behind the X rings so any oil applied in that effort is wasted
fling off...

Auto oilers reliably coat the chain like an leaky counter shaft seal
but that is a moot point since no amount of external oil will reach
the critical pin and roller junction effectively sealed behind the X
rings to help extend life...

However if you ran a non X ring chain then I would agree Mr. Scott's
oiler is a reliable substitute for that prescribed manual lubrication
because oil would have a chance to migrate to the critical pin and
roller junction...

Think about it... we know cam chains don't wear out at all like drive
chains because the cam chain's critical pin and roller junction have
continuous oil supply... now if we install an X ring chain in place of
the non X ring cam chain it would begin wearing at the critical pin
and roller junction about as often as the drive chain even though it
operates in a hail storm of fresh hot oil non of it will migrate
behind the X ring and extend the life of the critical pin and roller
junction... wear will happen and the chain length will grow...

Aegisranger, 9/20/2016 at 8:37 PM

No, that's not the "only worth one can expect"...   Chains that aren't kept lubed get dirty and rusty.  Dirt and rust eat away at the o-ring or x-ring causing it to fail prematurely, which then compromises the internal "factory" grease.  When the dirt or rust get in or the internal grease leaks out, your chain wears out fast.  The scottoiler continually keeps a small amount of fresh, clean oil on the chain, which prevents rust and flings off taking the dirt with it.  Super sticky chain lubes collect dirt which acts as an abrasive paste on the rollers and sprockets.

Have you noticed that a dry chain attracts less dirt than a oily one??? 

Chain manufactures today actually use a highly fluorinated
fluoroelastomer known commercially as Viton or Kalrez... very tough
stuff... It has a excellent resistance to most chemicals including
sulfur... sulfur chloride... sulfur dioxide... sulfur hexaflouride to
name a few... most important it doesn't need special protection from

dirt or few rust spots... they will far out last a chain's life...

[image: VitonXring.jpg]

Moral of the story: you still need to lube your chain otherwise your sprockets and the parts of the chain that come into contact with them will suffer premature wear and you'll be swapping them out sooner (spending more money than the cost of lube).

Great thread! Too many interesting and educational points made and links shared to quote them all. Bottom line after reading the entire thread and reading/viewing all the links - I'm going to switch from WD40 and try Motul Chain Paste applied after a not-yet-specified chain cleaner used after a chain brush after a bike wash.

I haven't ridden street or track since 2010, but since this past March I have been doing some in-depth mechanical work and maintenance on two 2002 VFRs and one 2001 VFR. I put new chains on the 2002's before selling them, so my chain maintenance experience is limited to the 2001, which I purchased in early July 2016 with 36000 miles on the clock. It had an RK chain that was correctly adjusted [1.125" of free play]. The RK didn't bind and held tight to the rear [driven] sprocket when I pulled on the chain to see if it was worn [I pulled on the chain at the rearmost point on the sprocket while the wheel was suspended] . I rode the VFR locally during July and used only WD40 for the purpose of dispersing water, inhibiting rust, and conditioning the o-rings - I don't count on WD40 for lubrication. I took a 3400 mile trip from Socal through the pac NW in August, applying WD40 and wiping down the chain every 500 miles or so. After the trip, there was no noticeable chain stretch or looseness when I pulled the chain at the rear sprocket. Sep 9-12 I joined BrianF's amazing Kernville/sierras ride. The sierras riding was vastly more spirited than the pac NW ride. I treated the chain with WD-40 twice on the 1500 mile sierras trip. On the last day's return to Socal, I noticed the chain rattling - it had stretched noticeably. I tightened the chain when I got home and even with only 1.25" of free play in the chain, it pulled away from the rear sprocket about 1/8". I'm not sure if the hard riding of the sierras trip is the cause of the seemingly sudden chain wear, but I am going to change my maintenance practice to include serious chain lube. I hope to find better chain longevity. I'm considering investing in an identical RK o-ring chain immediately [And maybe ripping through the sierras routes] to see if proper lube stops sudden stretch of my road chain.

Frame of reference - I used to feel confident about WD-40 because I had been riding only dirtbikes since 2011, and I had been using only WD40 on my CRF450R's DID VX2 chain since I bought the chain 2 years ago. I ride twice a month on motocross tracks [which always have at least some mud], desert, or goat trails, etc. After the first ride on the VX2 [with two new sprockets], I adjusted the chain to compensate for initial stretch, and since then all 'normal' dirtbike chain wear has seemed to stop. I use a chain brush, then wash the bike after every ride, then soak the chain in WD40, then wipe the chain dry with a rag. That's it.

every afternoon when I get home from work, (65-125 miles depending on the day), I put the bike on the center stand and give the chain one or two oil can squirts of 90 wt gear oil. In the morning before leaving for work, I squirt a dab of wd40 on a rag and wipe the chain down (reduces splatter onto the rear wheel).  Using this regimen, my bike had 48,800 miles on the chain when I sold it, and the chain was still serviceable (tight on the rear sprocket).

Most riders won't be so anal about chain maintenance, but if you're still reading this thread after three pages of posts, you might qualify.

El Jefe - I'll try your regimen. I like its 48,800 mile empirical result. Someone else mentioned using synthetic 90wt gear oil - do you think synthetic has any advantage? Which brand/model 90w do you use?

I personally use Valvoline, but I don't think it matters much.  I put synthetic in my Aerostar's differential, and had the Valvoline dino oil left on the shelf.  Man, I've had that bottle for something like 6 years now and it's still almost half full.

Sounds good - thanks for the input.

This is the box from my last D.I.D. chain with their recommended maintenance practice, replacement criteria and note on master link selection.  I have never seen 80w-90 oil in a spray can, but maybe they do sell it. 

[image: DID.jpg]

[image: Maintenance.JPG]

[image: Lube placement.jpg]

3 hours ago, Cogswell

[image: Maintenance.JPG]

DID says "External lube every 300 miles to prevent rust and ensure performance" I gather "ensure performance" is HP related because there is no mention of lube to ensure longevity or arrest premature wear...

I have 28,000km on my CBR1100 chain, it has no tight spots and is only about a third of the way along the wear indicator green section.

Chain has been lubed regularly with Maxima chain wax with occasional cleanings with kero.

I have 2 NOS genuine Honda chain and sprocket kits on the shelf waiting for this one to wear out (I thought I might get 10k originally).

8 hours ago, thx113

I have 28,000km on my CBR1100 chain, it has no tight spots and is only about a third of the way along the wear indicator green section.

Its a a third of the way along the wear indicator green section because of metal to metal wear at the critical pin and roller junction behind the X rings...

BLS, I hereby nominate you to develop and patent a chain requiring minimal lubrication that doesn't wear out .  I suspect metallurgy will be the key.  I wonder what a titanium chain would cost and if that would wear any less.  I would pay more for a chain requiring less lubrication that doesn't wear.  Chains are due a technology leap.  

I'd be happy too because chains are a pain but the answer is a maintenance free belt that will out last 3 chains...

For the rest of the story click on the link...

A clean chain with proper chain tension is key. I use WD-40. Always.