How Often Do You Clean / Lube Your Chain?

Just curious to see how often others clean and or lube the chain.

I clean my chain every leap year, whether it needs it or not. :goofy:

Was doin every 500-600 mi. Since throwing a Scott Oiler on and dialing wheel cleaning oil spit to a minimum, I'll check slack monthly and clean annually.

I clean the chain when it is black using wd40 until it is silver again.

I lube the chain every few weeks unless i rode through rain / sand / etc.....

Part of this is because i use synthetic chain lube that makes me believe (mistakenly?) it will survive a little better than the natural stuff.

That is how i do it on the bikes for road riding. On the track i clean & lube the chain each day, and check it throughout the day.

Try to clean and lube every 500 miles.

I lube my chain, usually with spray-on chain wax, every 300-400 miles. I clean the chain and rear sprocket a couple times each season, or maybe every 3k-4k miles.

Washed and lubed religiously every 500km on my 08 VFR800A. Changed Chain and sprockets at 32,000km even though all appeared ok but the indicator had reached the "Change" mark.

Have since moved to shaft drive!!! :laughing6-hehe:

I lube with spray wax every other week or so, so maybe 400 miles? I clean about twice a year. All I use is a chain cleaning product whose name I cannot remember right now (sold at Cycle Gear) combined with one of those brushes that cleans 3 sides of the chain at once. Throw it up on the center stand, pop it in neutral, spray, then just spin the wheel for 5 minutes or so with the brush on the chain. A quick spray of wax and I'm done.

Mike

[image: View Post]whiteboyslo, on 19 February 2011 - 12:13 PM, said:

I lube with spray wax every other week or so, so maybe 400 miles? I clean about twice a year. All I use is a chain cleaning product whose name I cannot remember right now (sold at Cycle Gear) combined with one of those brushes that cleans 3 sides of the chain at once. Throw it up on the center stand, pop it in neutral, spray, then just spin the wheel for 5 minutes or so with the brush on the chain. A quick spray of wax and I'm done.

Mike


I do the same but I'm to lazy to manually spin the tire. I just start it up put it in 1st gear and let it idle. Works perfect.

[image: View Post]Coastie, on 19 February 2011 - 12:29 PM, said:

[image: View Post]whiteboyslo, on 19 February 2011 - 12:13 PM, said:

I lube with spray wax every other week or so, so maybe 400 miles? I clean about twice a year. All I use is a chain cleaning product whose name I cannot remember right now (sold at Cycle Gear) combined with one of those brushes that cleans 3 sides of the chain at once. Throw it up on the center stand, pop it in neutral, spray, then just spin the wheel for 5 minutes or so with the brush on the chain. A quick spray of wax and I'm done.

Mike


I do the same but I'm to lazy to manually spin the tire. I just start it up put it in 1st gear and let it idle. Works perfect.



Watch those fingers. :D



I do mine about every 750 miles.

[image: View Post]TimC, on 19 February 2011 - 11:51 AM, said:

I lube my chain, usually with spray-on chain wax, every 300-400 miles. I clean the chain and rear sprocket a couple times each season, or maybe every 3k-4k miles.

That's about my MO too.

Spray with Bel-Ray every 3/500 miles....Clean chain / R-sprocket only with a rag sprayed with WD-40, Milage varies on visual inspection. (17,000 miles on the chain).

Lube every 500 miles, clean at about 3k miles.

My Pro-Oiler squirts a little oil out about every 2,900 wheel revolutions. :cheerleader:

Lube every few rides, after washing, or at the end of each day when touring (300-500 miles). I'm one of the converts to Dupont Teflon Multi-Use spray lubricant. It's cheaper than bike-specific lubes, goes on wet and penetrates well, dries quickly leaving a white film, seems to last between lubes--and even smells nice. I clean mid-season and at the end of the season with a commercial engine degreaser that's supposed to be safe for rubber parts (e.g. Gunk). Short ride to warm up chain, spray on cleaner, scrub thoroughly with Grunge brush, let sit for 15 minutes, wash off thoroughly, short ride to dry, lube and check tension. When using various other lubes and chain waxes, I was always amazed at how much black crap would come out of the chain, sprockets, sprocket cover, etc. Now that I'm using the Dupont teflon lube, I'm still degreasing twice a season (force of habit), but far less road grime washes off.

Chains are a pain... at the miminum they require cleaning and lubing every tank of gas... only a belt spells relief... automatic chain oilers don't...

[image: Posted Image]




[image: Posted Image]

Scottoiler all the way,
never cleaned chain in my life.......

[image: View Post]BusyLittleShop, on 19 February 2011 - 04:30 PM, said:

Chains are a pain... at the miminum they require cleaning and lubing every tank of gas... only a belt spells relief... automatic chain oilers don't...

But chain oilers are a lot less expensive and last I heard you are still looking for a belt that will work with your latest ride...

I try to lube mine every 300-500 miles.

Not to change the subject... And it may have already been asked...but is a belt drive conversion possible?

About every 1000 miles or so. Conditions here are good so its never that dirty to begin with. I use kerosene and toothbrush, wipe it down good after with WD-40, ride, rewax.

[image: View Post]vanion2, on 19 February 2011 - 04:40 PM, said:

But chain oilers are a lot less expensive and last I heard you are still looking for a belt that will work with your latest ride...

I try to lube mine every 300-500 miles.


Auto chain oilers where designed for non standard chains back in the
60s for London Motorcycle Curriers... they were never designed for O
ring chains... so if you're going to install an auto oiler then
complete the package and install an standard chain without O rings or
just take a razor blade and cut out all the little black O rings...
now your really lubing your chain especially the critical pin and
roller junction... where before you were just coating the chain...

[image: View Post]YellowFuzz, on 19 February 2011 - 06:22 PM, said:

Not to change the subject... And it may have already been asked...but is a belt drive conversion possible?

BLS, what's the latest on your conversion project? Still working on it?

[image: View Post]BusyLittleShop, on 19 February 2011 - 09:28 PM, said:

[image: View Post]vanion2, on 19 February 2011 - 04:40 PM, said:

But chain oilers are a lot less expensive and last I heard you are still looking for a belt that will work with your latest ride...

I try to lube mine every 300-500 miles.


Auto chain oilers where designed for non standard chains back in the
60s for London Motorcycle Curriers... they were never designed for O
ring chains... so if you're going to install an auto oiler then
complete the package and install an standard chain without O rings or
just take a razor blade and cut out all the little black O rings...
now your really lubing your chain especially the critical pin and
roller junction... where before you were just coating the chain...


Interesting, I never knew. Here is another article on the subject.
My link

[image: View Post]vfrcapn, on 19 February 2011 - 09:36 PM, said:

[image: View Post]YellowFuzz, on 19 February 2011 - 06:22 PM, said:

Not to change the subject... And it may have already been asked...but is a belt drive conversion possible?

BLS, what's the latest on your conversion project? Still working on it?


Yes Mike I'm still working on it... the project is AWP (awaiting part) namely a 11mm pitch Gates belt with the correct number of teeth...

http://www.vfrdiscus...__1#entry478060

[image: View Post]Coastie, on 20 February 2011 - 12:04 AM, said:

Interesting, I never knew. Here is another article on the subject.
My link


Interesting link... I don't agree about the authors view on belts
because he is not up to date... but I do agree with his chain statement:

"The only reason for chain wear is the loss of lubricant" says
Longoni. The advent of the O-ring chain enabled the chain to keep its
oil inside and stay lubricated were it counts for long periods.

Loss of lubricant at the critical pin and roller junction is the
reason why we adjust our chains... after the 3rd adjustment the chain
is worn out and all the user is doing is grinding metal... it can get
so bad that the red oxides of the harden metal explode pass the O
rings and visibly this is known as the Red Death... Chains are a
pain... they only remain properly lubricated internally for 8 to 10K
miles...

Belts...

Belts are stronger than most people believe... take 37mm wide 14mm
pitch Gates Poly Chain... it is strong enough to handle a 502 HP 425
Ft lb Boss Hoss... in fact most of the Boss Hoss product line employs
belts...
You'd only need a 30mm wide 14mm pitch belt to handle 172 /90ft lb
V4 which is only 5mm wider than a 630 chain...




Eddie Lawson raced 250 Gp on a belt drive Kawasaki...

[image: Posted Image]

O-ring and X-ring chains are supposed to be sealed at the link bearings between the plates and the factory installed lubricant should work for the lifetime of the chain (lifetime depends on frequency of chain replacement).

The purpose of chain lubrication by owners probably serves more to prolong the sprockets as owner applied lubrication works as a lubrication layer between the outside of the chain roller links/inside of link plates and the sprockets.

Chain life should remain consistent with or without external lubrication as long as the factory O/X rings are working well sealing in the factory lubricants. The condition of the O-rings are hard to tell from casual inspection without dis-assembling the roller links of the chain.

I have had experience inspecting the factory lubrication and O-rings of a worn chain (~30000km). Surprisingly, the factory lube are still present in generous amount even though the O rings are crushed/deformed beyong recognition of their new O/X cross sectional shape.

Conclusion: I would lube the chain with chain wax once every 2000-3000km depending on outlook and clean (remove gunk and dirt) every 4 lube which is 10000km. Replace sprockets and chain (DID factory size X-ring) every 30000km. This maintenance schedule should ensure that the likelyhood of chain failure during a ride is brought to a mininum.

[image: View Post]BusyLittleShop, on 19 February 2011 - 09:28 PM, said:

[image: View Post]vanion2, on 19 February 2011 - 04:40 PM, said:

But chain oilers are a lot less expensive and last I heard you are still looking for a belt that will work with your latest ride...

I try to lube mine every 300-500 miles.


Auto chain oilers where designed for non standard chains back in the
60s for London Motorcycle Curriers... they were never designed for O
ring chains... so if you're going to install an auto oiler then
complete the package and install an standard chain without O rings or
just take a razor blade and cut out all the little black O rings...
now your really lubing your chain especially the critical pin and
roller junction... where before you were just coating the chain...

If Scottoiler doesnot work, it must be sheer luck that my OEM chain lasted some 30,000 miles........

I'll go out and buy a lottery ticket now... :biggrin:

[image: View Post]civicblade, on 20 February 2011 - 12:41 AM, said:

O-ring and X-ring chains are supposed to be sealed at the link bearings between the plates and the factory installed lubricant should work for the lifetime of the chain (lifetime depends on frequency of chain replacement).

The purpose of chain lubrication by owners probably serves more to prolong the sprockets as owner applied lubrication works as a lubrication layer between the outside of the chain roller links/inside of link plates and the sprockets.

Chain life should remain consistent with or without external lubrication as long as the factory O/X rings are working well sealing in the factory lubricants. The condition of the O-rings are hard to tell from casual inspection without dis-assembling the roller links of the chain.

I have had experience inspecting the factory lubrication and O-rings of a worn chain (~30000km). Surprisingly, the factory lube are still present in generous amount even though the O rings are crushed/deformed beyong recognition of their new O/X cross sectional shape.

Conclusion: I would lube the chain with chain wax once every 2000-3000km depending on outlook and clean (remove gunk and dirt) every 4 lube which is 10000km. Replace sprockets and chain (DID factory size X-ring) every 30000km. This maintenance schedule should ensure that the likelyhood of chain failure during a ride is brought to a mininum.




:fing02: That was my understanding exactly. If you lube and clean the external parts appropriately, sprockets and outside of roller links, they will last about as long as the O/X ring seals. I've been lubing every 1000km, with a clean-up every 10,000km for the last 110,000km. I typically start to see evidence of rear sprocket wear and sticking links around 40,000km, so they get replace (both sprockets and chain) before I hit the 50K mark.

BTW. lube every 1000km means 22x per season :ohmy: What a pain in the a$$ :pissed:

Brian

[image: View Post]DDO-VFR, on 20 February 2011 - 10:30 AM, said:

BTW. lube every 1000km means 22x per season :ohmy: What a pain in the a$$ :pissed:

Brian



I guess that is why black powdercoated rims are so popular.... :laughing6-hehe:

I am in the same boat as monk and replaced a tired chain/sprockets when I bought my bike.
I lube ever 500 and clean it ever 1000 with maxima chain cleaner. Both bottles last forever and so far
I've only had to make 1 adjustment in 8k miles which most of them are a mix of commuting and 2 up riding.

I'm pretty good on the lubing and cleaning but have one link that's a little tight and I'm getting a lot of "chain chatter" that I can feel through my footpegs. If I were to cut out the little rubber bumpers just on that link would I be okay to keep running that chain. If I adjust the chain so that it's within spec, I have just that one spot that's really tight. The feeling through my pegs is starting to get annoying. I was used to the silky smooth sound/feel of the engine and now I have this.

Or is just time to give in and get a new chain/sprockets. They got about 10,000 miles on them.

Yellowfuzz

[image: View Post]Dutchy, on 20 February 2011 - 03:48 AM, said:

If Scottoiler doesnot work, it must be sheer luck that my OEM chain lasted some 30,000 miles........

My definition of working and lasting depends on how many times the
chain required adjusted... because the lasting benefit of an Automatic
oiler is it will lower the 212F running temp of the chain so in that
regard you do see extra mileage... but the trade off is at the expense
of a messy running oil leak... just think... Honda spent millions upon
millions engineering oil tight engines and the owner installs a
running oil leak as if the shaft seal was blown just to save a few
bucks on chain and sprockets... oh the humanity!!!

No one can dispute the fact that automatic oilers do not replenish the
factory lube at the critical pin and roll junction behind the X
rings... my customers swear their chains are good at 30K miles this
until I show them the wear hidden from view...

This is what you don't see behind the X rings... metal to metal wear
every time you adjust the chain that eats into your engine's available
HP... 206.5 is new 205.5 is at the 8K mile mark... looks good but
multiply 1 thousand of an inch times 108 links and you have 108
thousands of an inch wear or about the range of the green marks
provided by Honda's wear gauge... 202.8 show the very visible wear at
the 12K mile mark... just think what those pins look like at 18K... so
you still don't think that is chain abuse???



Honda uses a handy guide to monitor chain wear... stay with in the
green and you'll be looking for a new chain and sprockets at the 8 to
10K mile mark...

[image: View Post]YellowFuzz, on 20 February 2011 - 01:52 PM, said:

I'm pretty good on the lubing and cleaning but have one link that's a little tight and I'm getting a lot of "chain chatter" that I can feel through my footpegs. If I were to cut out the little rubber bumpers just on that link would I be okay to keep running that chain. If I adjust the chain so that it's within spec, I have just that one spot that's really tight. The feeling through my pegs is starting to get annoying. I was used to the silky smooth sound/feel of the engine and now I have this.

Or is just time to give in and get a new chain/sprockets. They got about 10,000 miles on them.

Yellowfuzz

They use to run chains that weren't sealed, as long as you keep it oiled. Also have you loosened up your chain so that you can work the kink out by hand with lube and muscle(working the link back and forth).?

Much ado about chain lubing. I've done different experiments on different bikes and come to my own conclusion. It doesn't really matter much how often you lube a modern chain. The most important thing is to keep it somewhat clean. I am always surprised by the time and energy *some* people put into the care of a $200 part. Now if you're one of those people, don't get mad at me. I'm glad you enjoy it. I'm just lazier than you are. :)

[image: View Post]YellowFuzz, on 20 February 2011 - 01:52 PM, said:

I'm pretty good on the lubing and cleaning but have one link that's a little tight and I'm getting a lot of "chain chatter" that I can feel through my footpegs. If I were to cut out the little rubber bumpers just on that link would I be okay to keep running that chain. If I adjust the chain so that it's within spec, I have just that one spot that's really tight. The feeling through my pegs is starting to get annoying. I was used to the silky smooth sound/feel of the engine and now I have this.

Or is just time to give in and get a new chain/sprockets. They got about 10,000 miles on them.

Yellowfuzz



More than likely you have one obvious link that has a issue. and many more than that , linkks dont lock up and throw redust initially, they get slow first well before that. BUt you can cut the rings out and oil it. Ive done it quite alot to aide getting alittle extra life. I've not seen anything negative but you have to baby it frequently. and thats running alot of high speed. But if youve adjusted it alot , might be a go ahead and replace.

Btw I using a new technique with wd40, I never had any luck with cold spraying wd40 as a benefit to life. But Ive been doing Hot sprays of wd40 immediately after every 500 mile, and Im seeing 40% gain on life at this juncture over any chain ive run. I only use enough lube to keep the sprockets happy , just a squirt on maybe half the chain.

But the WD40 Hot sprays, seem to really be having an effect,

[image: View Post]spud786, on 20 February 2011 - 09:30 PM, said:

But the WD40 Hot sprays, seem to really be having an effect,


WD40 is not designed to serve as a chain lube... its main effect is protection aginst rust...

WD-40's formula is a trade secret. The product is *not* patented to
avoid completely disclosing its ingredients. WD-40's main
ingredients, according to U.S. Material Safety Data Sheet information,
are:

50%: Stoddard solvent (i.e., mineral spirits � primarily hexane, somewhat similar to kerosene)
25%: Liquefied petroleum gas (presumably as a propellant; carbon dioxide is now used instead to reduce WD-40's considerable flammability)
15+%: Mineral oil (light lubricating oil)
10-%: Inert ingredients

Where's my HP???

A new chain consumes 2% of your engine's available power... as the
chain wears with miles cover that 2% lost grows and can reach up 6%
lost of RWHP verified on the dyno...

Mr.RC45 makes 118 HP at the couter shaft and a new chain consumes 2% of that 118
the lost grows as miles are covered...

2% lost = 116RWHP
4% lost = 111RWHP
6% lost = 109RWHP

Chains are a pain...

[image: View Post]BusyLittleShop, on 21 February 2011 - 03:40 AM, said:

Mr.RC45 makes 118 HP at the couter shaft and a new chain consumes 2% of that 118
the lost grows as miles are covered...

2% lost = 116RWHP
4% lost = 111RWHP
6% lost = 109RWHP

Chains are a pain...

I have seen it mentioned many times you have to lube a chain after a ride when it's hot. The loss of RWHP explains why a chain gets hot as all that loss of energy is transferend into heat.
The chain on my bike has over 40k mls on it, has stretched just a little over 0.5% and only gets hot when the bike has been parked in the blazing sun for some time. I guess that means the loss of RWHP is kept to a minimum :fing02:

[image: View Post]BusyLittleShop, on 20 February 2011 - 05:03 PM, said:

... because the lasting benefit of an Automatic
oiler is it will lower the 212F running temp of the chain so in that
regard you do see extra mileage...
212F ? I've never seen steam coming off my chain when I rode through a water puddle. That single drop of oil every 5000th revolution of the rear wheel sure does it's job well of keeping the chain cool :cool: I mean have you ever wondered why an automatic chain oiler keeps the running temp of a chain that much lower?

[image: View Post]BusyLittleShop, on 20 February 2011 - 05:03 PM, said:

No one can dispute the fact that automatic oilers do not replenish the
factory lube at the critical pin and roll junction behind the X
rings...
No, and like chain lubricant that comes out of a spray can, that is not the intended use for a modern chain oiler. Before oil can get past (worn) O-rings, water will have entered the pin and roll juction and diluted the remaining lubricant.

[image: View Post]BusyLittleShop, on 19 February 2011 - 09:28 PM, said:

Auto chain oilers where designed for non standard chains back in the
60s for London Motorcycle Curriers... they were never designed for O
ring chains...

Most modern chain oilers (except the cameleon oiler) have a nozzle specificaly designed for O-ring chains, that spreads the oil to keep the O-rings clean and lubed in the best possible way. The O-rings are the most critical component in a modern chain when it comes to chain wear. An automatic oiler does the same job as when doing manual chain maintenance. The only difference is that the automatic oiler like the pro oiler, cls200 & scott oiler eSystem, do it at much shorter intervals keeping the chain clean and lubed all the time, keeping final drive train losses to a minimum. Cheapest HP money can buy :biggrin:
Also, how often did you have to lube a non O-ring chain? I don't think modern chain oilers are suitable to use with regular roller chains.

[image: View Post]BusyLittleShop, on 20 February 2011 - 05:03 PM, said:

Honda uses a handy guide to monitor chain wear... stay with in the
green and you'll be looking for a new chain and sprockets at the 8 to
10K mile mark...



On VFRs the chain wear indictor is glued to the chain protector and the mouting tabs have quite a lot of play in them, so it is hardly useful.

And to answer the original question? I never lube the chain, the Pro Oiler takes care of chain maintenance. It was adjusted once over the past 65k kms/40k mls by keny who thought it needed a bit more slack, that was three years ago.

I usually clean my chain whenever I have the time. It gets dirty after a few rides. Usually give it a quick spray of lube afterwards.

My right hand tends to kill my chains before the lack of cleaning does... :beatdeadhorse:

[image: View Post]V4 Rosso, on 21 February 2011 - 09:14 AM, said:

And to answer the original question? I never lube the chain, the Pro Oiler takes care of chain maintenance. It was adjusted once over the past 65k kms/40k mls by keny who thought it needed a bit more slack, that was three years ago.


OK Rosso... we got your garage surrounded... come out with your hands up... you are guilty of chain abuse...

[image: View Post]BusyLittleShop, on 19 February 2011 - 04:30 PM, said:

Chains are a pain... at the miminum they require cleaning and lubing every tank of gas... only a belt spells relief... automatic chain oilers don't...


So lets say your right Larry. Please supply the link where someone could buy this belt drive conversion. Oh, that's right, NOBODY MAKES ONE!!

The next best thing is a automatic chain oiler IMHO. Yes, they are expensive, but they take alot of chain maintance out of a riders required things to do. I think we understand that the oiler won't supply oil to the pins and bushings, but if you keep the o/x-rings cool and clean they would tend to last longer, correct? And if that's the case, some of the oil that gets flung off the chain will actually carry away the road grit and grime which would otherwise be harmful to the o/x-rings. So you've got a grand wrapped up in parts that you haven't found a belt to fit. I've got $250 wrapped up in a Pro-OIler and haven't touched my chain in 10K miles. Looks to me like I'm money ahead.

BusyLittleShop said:

My definition of working and lasting depends on how many times the
chain required adjusted... because the lasting benefit of an Automatic
oiler is it will lower the 212F running temp of the chain so in that
regard you do see extra mileage... but the trade off is at the expense
of a messy running oil leak... just think... Honda spent millions upon
millions engineering oil tight engines and the owner installs a
running oil leak as if the shaft seal was blown just to save a few
bucks on chain and sprockets... oh the humanity!!!


A messy running oil leak? Most of the new oilers go off of tire rotation, so it's not "as if the shaft seal was blown". You could park my bike in a driveway and let it idle until it ran out of fuel, and it wouldn't have dripped a drop of oil. Is it more dirty than a bike ridden without an oiler, I'm sure it is. But since I ride my bike in the rain, on gravel, through water, and on salted roads in the winter I'm not too particular to having a showbike.

Please don't take this as a shot to your intelligence or your determination for de-chaining MR. RC45, but to say belt drive is the only way to go is just pure lunacy. Regardless, good luck in finding your belt, or finding the 65K for the mold. Aim High Air Force.

I don't clean. But I lube it every 1000km roughly--that's about 600 miles for those down south... :biggrin: But I'm no example...

C

[image: View Post]XLR8, on 20 February 2011 - 09:16 PM, said:

I am always surprised by the time and energy *some* people put into the care of a $200 part. Now if you're one of those people, don't get mad at me. I'm glad you enjoy it. I'm just lazier than you are. :)

:laugh:

I'm with you on the never-ending stuff we do to get more life out of a chain and sprocket set, but that's only part of the equation. Replacing them is a PITA, and the fewer times it has to be done, the better! :wink:

[image: View Post]XLR8, on 20 February 2011 - 09:16 PM, said:

I am always surprised by the time and energy *some* people put into the care of a $200 part. Now if you're one of those people, don't get mad at me. I'm glad you enjoy it. I'm just lazier than you are. :)


I have a Pro-oiler still sitting in the box. I just been too lazy to install it....yet. :goofy:

[image: View Post]hondalover, on 22 February 2011 - 02:36 AM, said:

I think we understand that the oiler won't supply oil to the pins and bushings, but if you keep the o/x-rings cool and clean they would tend to last longer, correct?

Correct... a running oil leak will make the chain last a little longer
before you need the first adjustment... but once you do adjust the
chain its because of wear at the pins and bushings and we agree that
an auto oiler *will not* replenish the factory lube at this critical
junction... so after 3 adjustments your chains is still going around
the sprockets and its pretty on the outside but its grinding metal on
the inside... guilty of chain abuse... mercy its tantamount to running
a bearing until it squeaks...

[image: View Post]hondalover, on 22 February 2011 - 02:36 AM, said:

Please don't take this as a shot to your intelligence or your determination for de-chaining MR. RC45, but to say belt drive is the only way to go is just pure lunacy. Regardless, good luck in finding your belt, or finding the 65K for the mold. Aim High Air Force.


What intelligence??? I just a dumb guy with a Lathe and Mill... yes
I'm a firm believer that chains are a pain and belts are the only way
to go for relief and I bet owners will like this light weight and
maintenance free solution better than any messy running oil leak to
sooth a 102 year old antiquated chain design...

[image: View Post]BusyLittleShop, on 22 February 2011 - 05:23 PM, said:

[image: View Post]hondalover, on 22 February 2011 - 02:36 AM, said:

I think we understand that the oiler won't supply oil to the pins and bushings, but if you keep the o/x-rings cool and clean they would tend to last longer, correct?

Correct... a running oil leak will make the chain last a little longer
before you need the first adjustment... but once you do adjust the
chain its because of wear at the pins and bushings and we agree that
an auto oiler *will not* replenish the factory lube at this critical
junction... so after 3 adjustments your chains is still going around
the sprockets and its pretty on the outside but its grinding metal on
the inside... guilty of chain abuse... mercy its tantamount to running
a bearing until it squeaks...

[image: View Post]hondalover, on 22 February 2011 - 02:36 AM, said:

Please don't take this as a shot to your intelligence or your determination for de-chaining MR. RC45, but to say belt drive is the only way to go is just pure lunacy. Regardless, good luck in finding your belt, or finding the 65K for the mold. Aim High Air Force.


What intelligence??? I just a dumb guy with a Lathe and Mill... yes
I'm a firm believer that chains are a pain and belts are the only way
to go for relief and I bet owners will like this light weight and
maintenance free solution better than any messy running oil leak to
sooth a 102 year old antiquated chain design...

Having had a bike with a belt, I agree to the ease of maintance and lack of mess.... There is only on thing that has a negitive effect in my book, and that is the ability for it to carry stones or whatever to cycle around the pully and screw something up, don't ask how I know. I had the belt on a big Victory powered bike and never had a problem with the belt, other wise. The pullies and belts cost more but last way longer.

[image: View Post]Monk, on 22 February 2011 - 05:44 PM, said:

Having had a bike with a belt, I agree to the ease of maintance and lack of mess.... There is only on thing that has a negitive effect in my book, and that is the ability for it to carry stones or whatever to cycle around the pully and screw something up, don't ask how I know. I had the belt on a big Victory powered bike and never had a problem with the belt, other wise. The pullies and belts cost more but last way longer.


One day I noticed a rock hole my Belt-0-Cepter's belt... so I ordered
a new one and went out riding... came upon a HD rider and we compared
belts... I express concern that I might not make it back but it was
one hell of nice day for a ride... HD biker said hell I've had a rock
hole in my belt for a year now... What??? sure enough his belt had a
ragged hole that my finger fit... 10 months later and about 4K miles
my belt snapped in the parking lot of American River College...
The fix was an simple and effective rock guard... no more rocks...