Started with a set of F2 wheels, forks and brakes. Next came a frame and engine and misc bits.
Here's some work done.
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My more detailed build thread is on "another" forum. Lower F2 triple clamp with VFR stem and drilled and tapped adjustable steering stops. Forks rebuilt with RaceTech gold valves. Subframe has passenger pegs eliminated and the muffler mount coped and welded in the new position. Left side has passenger peg mount abbreviated and welded for shock reservoir, which is a modified F2 Fox TC using 87 linkage to accommodate the length (make up for 17" wheel and some extra). Custom spacers machined from stainless for either the F2 caliper bracket (pictured) or the stock bracket using a Triumph rotor (F2 bolt pattern and stock VFR diameter). Seat latch bracket modified to eliminate signal mounts and grab bars.
I have no parts to share. In June I will have owned this Masterpiece of VFR Riding Enjoyment for 30 Years. When I ride it I beat the Piss Out Of It. As it was designed to do. I do so However, with the Understanding that there are NO Replacement Parts Available !!! You may have to Scour the Globe for parts.
Starting to fit the body work. Cobalt Racing tail section. OEM CBR900RR upper and mids. I have the headlights and bracket. Fits the bike surpringly well. Good steering lock range and the vents in the mids line up nicely with the radiator.
For the upper cowl placement, did you position it so that the mid fairing were aligned (more or less) with the top frame rail or did you position it for bar clearance and the ability to tuck at speed on the straights?
I'll have to say I got really lucky. I had held it up a bunch of times trying to guesstimate where to start... and then I just did.
A visual cue for me on all the best looking Hondas (really, any bike), the top of the tank line runs into the top of the headlight(s). Look, you'll see.
Started there, and it worked. I have the brackets designed and I'm making them out of round tubing the same size as the upper cowl stay.
Good steering lock and the side vents are perfectly positioned. Also recently realized I "get" to take off the front end to install the adjustable steering lock bolts that I drilled and tapped for. Can't get them installed with it assembled. :(
I built it one piece at a time, and it didn't cost me a dime. :beer:
I'm sure it cost a lot more. :happy:
I just added up the hard parts. I'm sure I'm missing a couple little things, but what you see is about $900. I'll round up to $1000 adding in all the little stuff like some orings, gaskets, paint, etc.
I know... "bullshit". I got the 900 fairings with the headlights and bracket for free. Had a new Cheetah windscreen that I got for free years ago about the time I got the fairings. The new Cobalt tail for $20 from a friend who was so pissed at VFR Chuck for making it a black base fiberglass instead of white he couldn't even look at it. He said $40, I had a $20... "Good enough. I just want it gone.". Can do. And the new front tire was free (take off from an ex-coworker.)
It's getting closer, but 2 hand surgeries this year (the 2nd one 2 days ago), progress is slow, just like my left handed typing.
Refurbished another set of gauges to go on a re-worked meter bracket and eliminated the mirror mounts with 2 new brackets connecting the upper cowl at original 900RR mirror mounts. The bracket was so mangled I almost threw it away twice, but when I mocked it back up everything still lined up.
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Removed the remaining stickers and adhesive, 2 repairs, 7 hours of sanding and the first coat of primer. Fun. This was just last week. Gonna be stalled here for a bit now.
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Will get white paint (red front fender) and some graphics and decals to tie some stuff together. Real paint job with full stripes will have to wait for now.
What's the thought process of the holes next to the headlights? I bought a clapped out ex-race bike, and it looks like the PO tried to accomplish the same thing (poorly). I just tell people they are speed holes (reference), but I've never seen them on another bike...
What's the thought process of the holes next to the headlights? I bought a clapped out ex-race bike, and it looks like the PO tried to accomplish the same thing (poorly). I just tell people they are speed holes (reference), but I've never seen them on another bike...
When Honda was developing the 900RR (which started out as a 750), test riders found that corner transitions from fully leaned over one side to the other side felt faster and easier, allowing the air flow thru the extremes from the center of rotation, versus the same fairing without. There are holes down near the leading edge of the lowers as well.
Sorry, I don't like to gush, but Holy crap on a cracker is this bike awesome!
Perfect combination of absolutely classic and cobbled together mutt. It's like that RR fairing was made for it. Inside it's full of great parts, good suspension, handles modern rubber -- all the important stuff. When do you get to take it to the track and really but it through its paces?
Sorry, I don't like to gush, but Holy crap on a cracker is this bike awesome!
Perfect combination of absolutely classic and cobbled together mutt. It's like that RR fairing was made for it. Inside it's full of great parts, good suspension, handles modern rubber -- all the important stuff. When do you get to take it to the track and really but it through its paces?
Absolutely beautiful work.
Thank you so much! I try to build a lot of my bikes as if Honda could have done it. This one with the home made "graphics" not so much. But the bodywork, yes. Very happy. The RC26.
Thing of beauty. Did the F2 mod to my 86 VFR700 back in the day. I never corrected the geometry completely like you did. I lusted after a RWB CBR900r another riding buddy had so really appreciate the body work mod you did. Brilliant work. See avitar photo for reference. I ended up selling my 86 to a friend and bought a 98 VFR800. I thought it interesting that 86 and 98 are the same numbers when you turn them upside down.
Thing of beauty. Did the F2 mod to my 86 VFR700 back in the day. I never corrected the geometry completely like you did. I lusted after a RWB CBR900r another riding buddy had so really appreciate the body work mod you did. Brilliant work. See avitar photo for reference. I ended up selling my 86 to a friend and bought a 98 VFR800. I thought it interesting that 86 and 98 are the same numbers when you turn them upside down.
Me too regarding the 900RR. This is the best of both worlds for me. This thing handles like it should too, I am very pleased. Wish I could afford the final real paint job, but I have 2 other bikes I am building right now (another 86 VFR700, custom VTR250), rebuilding a crashed VF1000R for another rain bike, adding a Sudco 4-1 and Comstars to a 84 VF750F (eventually a 1000R upper and 41mm VF1000F forks), on top of the maintenance on the fleet. I'm an idiot.
I have to say I feel much alike, to many projects going on same time (if only one VFR) and Limited time/funds.
On the CBR900RR, I feel much the same, after testing one -93, way to much power for keeping you diriver licens safe (even a bit so whit a stock VFR750F! )
I do like the look of it, spechally the faring (like the RC30 also), and I can clearly see why you think your build is the best of both worlds, the stunning 2 headlight top faring whit the tourgue V4 as the nice looking tail of the RC24/26. And the wheel/fork upgrade to make it handel even better (Even I might not need that?)
I have to say you have created what I mostly like to have, so I hope its OK if I might build a copy of it some day.....
Got out for some road miles in the new livery finally. Some nice roads along the Snohomish River. This bike is so capable it's rediculous. Need to dial the suspension repeating the same secluded bumpy twisty road soon. [image: full]
Been a few years of trouble free goodness. The bike continues to be very capable and fun. The need for new tires inspired me to put together a "RC26-II" Upgrade Kit.
So did you go up in rear tire size as you got a wider rear rim?
Nope. 160/60-17, just like the F3 had. Puts a real nice profile on it. Just like my Hawk with a 5.0" VFR wheel.
No reason to go to a 170, bike doesnt need it and they are just more expensive. Not wide enough for a 180 and again, the bike doesn't need it and I wouldn't want it anyway.
I recall back in the day when the F3 came whit a 5" wide wheel, as other manufacturers, Dunlop had different casting's of the 160/60 for 4,5 as 5,0 wide rims, not so anymore. But yes I like the profile to that the wider rim give
Many say you need different spacers for the F3 rear wheel, but what I have found out is there is 2 different F3, rear wheels, the 95/96 use same spacer between bearings as the F2 but 97/98 has a different spacer, trough don't know what difference between them other than part number.....
The flange, final driven (sprocket hub) and inner collar did change part numbers in 97, but it was to accommodate a different bearing. Dimensions where it matters for mounting are the same. I have swapped around F2, F3, F4 and VTR1000F hubs.
The rear wheel does change in the last section of the part number for 97, but I think maybe the supplier changed. Critical dimensions remain the same, based on all of the associated parts and my experience.
Cheers keny.
End of thread · 69 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 20 Apr 2025
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