From Bristol UK and jujst bought a shiny 00 VFR with 26k on the clock.
Just bought a 2000 VFR800. It looks like it was a late registered 99 model though - rubber mirror things - no cat
For the purpose of purchasing parts ..like a full stainless system should I go for a 99 then? My logic is that if the 2000 had a cat and the 99 didn't then will a new system for a 2000 model have a cat?
Thinking out loud really - first VFR so not sure what to look for. 99 and 2000 parts interchangable I assume.
Also for town riding/commuting what kind of mileage to reserve should I get? Hell! Does it have a reserve or just a fuel guage? It's still at the dealers and will be on the road Monday.
Expect to be on these forums quite a bit. I'll be keeping this one for a long time. She's the prefect blend for me.
No cat on 98/99, but you will not be able to buy a new system with a cat.
All after markets systems available have no cat.
Also no reserve, just a fuel gauge, I get around 350km on mine, a bit higher or lower depending how I ride.
Ah great
When should I fill up then? When she's on the last line how much am I looking at? I'm used to having the panic of switching to a reserve.
Rear brake is softer than I'm used to though. I don't expect it to lock up on me at every push but it seems less responsive on the rear than my ZZR and this bikes are famous for brakes made of cheese.
If I were to go the power commander route - probably won't would I be looking at a 99 or an 00 map then - looks like mine is a late registration 99
If a '99, it should also have the lever on the left side controls to control the starter valves for cold idle. 2000 models went to the wax unit and the lever disappeared.
That's correct. My 2000 has a wax unit. no lever. Should be a big black/silver sticker on the frame rail on the left hand side of the bike showing the model year as well...right?
First of all welcome to "viffer discussion". Do yourself a favour and download the service manual here at this site, it would be pretty easy to see what you have and dont have as far as what year the bike is, besides you will need it sooner of later.
The linked brakes even in proper working conditions are weak IMHO but this is no supersport bike. This is a sport tourer so dont go crazy with the mods other than electrical,suspension and brake pad upgrades. I have a power commander but unless you have issues with rough running or flat spots with throttle response I woundnt bother. I good tune with a throttle body sync and idel adjustments goes a long way.
Ya some guys go crazy with mods and Im not really telling you not to but it will take a load of cash to make it into something it is not. BTW I would love to ride some of those "Frankinviffers"
You can get the later, nicer mirrors from David Silver spares, OEM for about £40-£50 per side, or identical 3rd party for £25 per side. I got the 3rd party ones. They're perfectly fine. - See here: Left, Right.
As others have said: Parts through the whole 5th gen range are identical aside from mirrors and what looks like the 'choke' - I can heartily recommend the Delkevic DL10 350mm Carbon end can / high mount. Sounds effin' glorious sans baffle, and not too loud.
Mileage: I get 110-ish around the city, and upwards of 160 on the motorway. While there is no reserve, the last gauge bar (when flashing) should get you 30 miles. I just top up every 100 to be safe.
Get EBC HH pads all round. Fit them all at once, too.
Get some better headlight bulbs. I got some Osram Nightbrerakers. Fit with no mods or trouble.
Throw some nice tyres on there, too. Pilot Road 4s are good, but we all have our preferences.
I'd also recommend an upgrade to the standard weedy meep-meep horn. I went with a Denali Soundbomb. Airhorn goodness! (get the split kit, it's easier to fit under the fairing)
While not a 'mod' - Up the preload on the rear shock, it'll dial-out most of the instability you might feel on corners.
Negatives:
If it's a pre-2000 model, keep an eye on the reg/rec, or get a 2000+ reg/rec.
The clutch may grind when pulling off at higher revs (5k+). This is not an issue, but annoying. Either pull off at lower revs before winding it on, or get a heavy duty EBC replacement set of springs and discs.
Yes; it will be running hot. They do that.
Yes; The rear brake is soft. Honda's linked brakes are just like that.
The linked brakes even in proper working conditions are weak IMHO but this is no supersport bike. This is a sport tourer so dont go crazy with the mods other than electrical,suspension and brake pad upgrades.
2
I would say that the perception that the brakes are "weak" is primarily a feel issue...the VFR has some of the shortes tested stopping distances of modern sportbikes with similar weight and contact patch...What the llinked brake system is is "effective"...however the rider is let down by slightly wooden feel in the brake lever and certainly fade if you don't put braided lines on. This is NO supersport bike, but no supersport bike has linked brakes. i'd bet you'd find this bike stops (with testing) on par with superbikes and supersport bikes of its era...period. However, if you want to get around a racetrack fast and squash that front tire into a corner get it turned while trail brakign into a corner...THIS is not your bike, a supersport is ...CBR 600RR or F4i equivalent...
Just my wonky opinion, I can dig up data, but i'm sure its been posted somewhere her before.
Not in the UK it won't. UK bikes don't have this data plate:
[image: 20160724_143339x.jpg]
UK bikes do have a VIN plate on the other side, as well as the VIN stamped into the headstock. Which is why I suggested the OP review his VIN to determine his bike's Model Year... :wink:
I had a 98 model for 125k miles. I've had as low as 33mpg & over 50mpg so your tank range will depend upon how you ride and your routes.
Do you have any form of service history? As a minimum, you should ensure an oil & filter change, possibly air filter & plugs too. Balance the Starter Valves (there is a guide on the site or one of us can probably help you. How old are the tyres? Are they showing signs of cracking? If they are, replace them. The suspension deteriorates slowly over time & 16 years may be enough to warrant changing and/or servicing.
As has been said, monitor the reg/rec (fit a voltmeter?) as they do fail on the older models. Symptoms are the clock reverting to 1 o'clock when you press the starter button.
Despite that sounding like a lot, they are not a difficult bike to maintain. If you need a hand with anything, pm me.
The 2000 is the first year the switched to using O2 monitoring on the catalytic converter as well, as part of the fuel injection system. The headers are more restricted, and smaller engine valves, different cam profiles. Lots of changes on the y2k model it was California compliant and had a more aggressive charcoal fuel venting system to capture tank/airborne fumes. It was much more emission compliant for stricter emissions laws.
Can be hard to tell on an old bike when many parts are interchangeable. But 2 impractical things to change for no good reason, and easy to spot, would be ( as already mentioned) no choke lever on the 2000 model and if you look into the wiring going into the ignition lock, electrical connection block and viewable as the black plastic sheath shrinks away from where it goes into the lock on the 2000 model there will be a pink extra wire.
Not only is she a 99 it seems the previous owners went to all the trouble of putting a nice upgraded re/rec in there and have left a few power points where they tapped into the loom. Handy
One thing does confuse me - see pic - it's clearly the 12v to back light and it's been severed - ehy make this mod - the two lights light up in it's place I assume? Is this a common thing? Would reconnecting it provide more illumination at the back? Much oddness.
I'd guess that is connected to the "voltage sense" wire on the new reg/rec. The idea is to check the actual voltage in the bike's electrical system at a different place than the battery, I guess, in hopes that gives a more accurate reading to tell the reg/rec how much to regulate. The older reg/recs did not have this, so there was no need for that sensing wire to be included on the bike. Your PO apparently wanted to get all the benefits of the newer reg/rec, so he added a sense wire. Most peeps would probably just leave it disconnected!
what about the light it was connected to - It's not needed?
The tail light has its own power--that's what the sensor wire is sensing. The later 5th gens (with the extra wire) used the Engine Stop Sensor wire for that purpose. I imagine that sensor is somewhere nearby? To duplicate the later wiring, you could attach the sensor wire to the stop sensor but, as I mentioned, it's not really necessary to connect it to anything.
On re-reading your question, I think I have misunderstood what you were asking and jumped to conclusions! Sorry.
I'm not sure what rear lights you have illuminated now. Could this "severed" wire have been for the license plate light? If it had been the tail lights, you wouldn't have any tail lights at all, would you? No. But it is common practice to tap into the tail light circuit to get power for accessories, so perhaps that's what that wire was used for? When the PO sold the bike he removed the accessories and left the wire. Does that make sense?
The pciture shows what appears to be a light in the middle of the cluster with its two wires severed - It has the two other lights lit at all the correct settings so I'm not worried - just wondering if this was simply the previous owner's preference or had some obvious tangible benefit like freeing upa 12volt line and ditching an not needed light - don;t know any other viffer owners to compare rear light set up. To be honest not that bothered - I have a 12v line and didn't need to mangle anything to get it.
That being said - when I attact my combination voltmeter and usb port - where should I attach it? I guess most people slap it on the lights. Anyway she's back in the shop today - has awarp on the right disc and I've done less that 100 miles on her - the warranty should cover it . . . .
Okay, I see it now! All I can think of is that is an alarm LED, and the alarm has been removed (usually a good thing, that).
For the USB/voltmeter, you probably want an ignition-switched circuit, and the lights are often used for that. But on a UK-spec 5th gen the headlights are on a switch, so if you want the USB working even if the lights are off, you will need to tap into another circuit. Where you do this would likely depend on where you wanted to mount the voltmeter/USB unit. Having a wiring diagram would be helpful here! The colour diagrams in the Haynes manual are very good.
I ride with lights on all the time anyway - every little helps on this rainy isle. Have haynes - will pop some plastics off this weekend and find a suitable point
End of thread · 32 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 26 Aug 2017