The M8x30mm caliper bolt is tightned with 30Nm
The oem bolt's "head/button" measures 16mm across
[image: IMAG6381.thumb.jpg.84bc3aac2e18773a6f96b0a49ca7bcc8.jpg]
The titanium bolt 13mm
[image: IMAG6382.thumb.jpg.76509b4e13d5ba7708644b30b0617d48.jpg]
The collar height is identical at 8mm
Is this ok?
I would imagine the titanium bolt is stronger, hence being more sleek. But I'm a hack of a mechanic and have a history of bad things happening with brake caliper bolts (on a friend's bike) so don't take my word for it! I'm sure someone with more experience will be by shortly.
Use a washer perhaps? More surface area could never hurt. But more importantly, titanium to aluminum, use anti seize. I forget but research if I remember correctly there is a specific kind for titanium to aluminum connection. I know because I also ride bicycles and had a titanium frame once and the bottom bracket shells are usually aluminum with fine threads and needed to be coated with ti specific grease.
Art
OEM m8 caliper bolts sport special 16mm heads for maximum strength so if you wish to stay within Honda's specification when upgrading to Titanium hardware then all you got to do is find the corresponding 16mm head m8 special caliper bolts complete with predrilled safety wire holes... Safety wire is insurance for the required torque of 30nm (22ft pds)
[image: 16mCaliperBolts.JPG]
Where are those from? Not too many people make Titanium metric socket caps, I'd imagine. The ones I got had cut threads, which I wouldn't really trust to hold my calipers on. The threads having been cut (rather than rolled) may be okay, but it just suggests that the manufacturing was done on the cheap.
Ciao,
9 hours ago, 007I would imagine the titanium bolt is stronger, hence being more sleek.
Nope..
Ti is actually roughly the same strength as steel (but much lighter).
1 hour ago, JZHThe threads having been cut (rather than rolled) may be okay, but it just suggests that the manufacturing was done on the cheap.
My old little Bandit had Al fasteners holding the calipers in place so I can't imagine that the possible minor difference in strength is an issue.
As for "cheap", it is a question of scale, I believe. Rolling threads is much cheaper per piece but the higher initial tooling cost must be offset.
Like all metal materials, I would want to know the exact grade of Titanium before I use Ti fasteners for calipers. - Generally speaking rolled threads are stronger than cut threads...
The most used Titanium (6al4v) is significantly stronger than the
commonly used grades of steels found in OEM fasteners... what is
desirable about titanium fasteners are its remarkable strength given
its weight... like if you Ti out every fastener you'll reduce about
8 pounds off your bikes burden...
Mr.RC45's OEM steel fasteners that were replaced with Titanium...
[image: SteelTitanium.JPG]
I've asked the NL based shop what grade they source for the M10 and M8 bolts.
Will hold off for now.
weigth saving is not so much my aim, but making them resist looking grotty is.... for she will live the life of a "normal" bike. not just summer days. and she's parked outside...
cheers so far!
Dutchy, 15-2-2017 at 1:19 PMIs this ok?
The caliper bracket is aluminum too, isn't it? The pressure below the bolt head will almost double, I would not feel comfortable using these bolts.
cheers Rosso!
I'll look into "carroserie"rings :-)
If that fails, then that was a lesson learned for me.... :wink: