Has anyone done a front or rear sprocket upgrade? I was debating down one upfront or two up in back.
Sprocket change
46 posts Started 6 May 2017 Last recovered post 20 Dec 2017 Wayback Machine snapshot 6 Jan 2018
I'll be ordering a chain and sprockets in the next week or two. I I'm either doing -1/+1 or +2 rear, haven't decided, but probably +2 rear. Planning on getting a speedohealer at the same time.
15 hours ago, jhenley17I'll be ordering a chain and sprockets in the next week or two. I I'm either doing -1/+1 or +2 rear, haven't decided, but probably +2 rear. Planning on getting a speedohealer at the same time.
Where did you find sprockets for the 8th Gen? I've been having some trouble tracking down after market ones.
Hm. I just noticed Sprocketcenter is calling 02-14 6th Generation. I'll have to check part numbers when I get a chance and see if the same sprockets will fit.
1 hour ago, TgoransonWhere did you find sprockets for the 8th Gen? I've been having some trouble tracking down after market ones.
Theres nobody carrying different sprockets as stock items, even Talon don't list any VFR sprockets after 2001 and even then it's the standard ones ....have to get some made
There's a enough members here and VFRworld to make a group buy worth considering if you really feel the need
Found some here
This is the kit I just installed on my 8th gen (stock tooth count). Absolutely nothing wrong with switching from the stock 525 to a 520 on our bikes...and saves a bit of rotating weight too!
22 hours ago, jhenley17I'll be ordering a chain and sprockets in the next week or two. I I'm either doing -1/+1 or +2 rear, haven't decided, but probably +2 rear. Planning on getting a speedohealer at the same time.
Why need a speedohealer? Unlike the 6gen, speed indication for the 8gen comes off the ABS rotors (I think).
Oh, didn't know that, either. I'll compare my indicated speed to RPMs, if I'm able to find different sizes.
After some reading sounds like a two up in the rear sprocket would be a nice upgrade. Looks easier to do than the front.
The front is really a pretty big sprocket. I had a 14-tooth front on my 599 with no issues, so I'm sure we could drop down one and be ok. I'd replace everything unless your miles on the current setup are low. If you are just doing one, you have one bolt in the front vs 6 nuts in the back.
Technically, you have more than one bolt to deal with in the front...the slave cylinder has to come off to get to the sprocket. After recently changing both of mine, if I only had to change one, the rear would be easier and quicker to change than the front.
But as many have stated on many forums...I ALWAYS change all 3 parts together, every time.
Beardedboxer, 5/5/2017 at 7:26 PMHas anyone done a front or rear sprocket upgrade? I was debating down one upfront or two up in back.
Why ? The VFR seems to be about perfect gearing. The only bike I ever changed was a 97 speed triple because it would bog in first.
Because I feel it's a little more geared for highway . I don't think it needs anything drastic , just a little more oomph .
32 minutes ago, BeardedboxerBecause I feel it's a little more geared for highway . I don't think it needs anything drastic , just a little more oomph .
Ok, I would not do to gas mileage going down on long trips which I do a few a year. Another thing to consider is the chain guide can get chewed up by going down at motor. With just 1 down just keep an eye on it, I would go 1 or 2 up on rear to avoid that possible issue.
I don't do a lot of highway trips so it's not really an issue. I only found a +1 on eBay. Not sure if I would even notice that.
Beardedboxer, 6/05/2017 at 10:26 AMHas anyone done a front or rear sprocket upgrade? I was debating down one upfront or two up in back.
WARNING - The Gear Position Indication system could be screwed if you change the front or rear sprocket from the standard size.
Just read this in the General Info Page 1-33 regarding the operation of the Gear Position Indication System.
[image: Gear_Position001.jpg]
I was thinking about that. I could live without it, but I'm wondering if it will be a big enough change to indicate incorrect gears or if it will just show the blank.
I originally went one down on the front on my 01, but later changed to 2 up on the rear which I like a lot more.
1 down on front makes chain closer to swingarm guide which is not very good.
Can't see how it would have anything to do with gear change indicator.
I love it the way it is now.
The gear indicator checks itself by comparing speed to RPM. I'm not sure how exactly it works, but I had an issue with it today (still stock gears) where it couldn't figure out what gear it was in until I came to a stop and, I guess, clicked past neutral. It tried to flash "1" a few times when I went down to fifth, but immediately went back to "-."
15 hours ago, GrumWARNING - The Gear Position Indication system could be screwed if you change the front or rear sprocket from the standard size.
Just read this in the General Info Page 1-33 regarding the operation of the Gear Position Indication System.
Well, that's annoying.
I guess its only a problem if you look at the indicator.
I've never had one, and to be honest I can't see the point of one.
I change gears when I need to,
So it depends if looking at the dial is more important then the gearing on the bike.
I swapped my rear because I wanted more get up and go, and I found 1st gear too tall for how I ride.
Well that sucks...
Drop it by 1 tooth in the front. 2 if you always want to be in 4 valve mode on the highway.
I just did the 520 conversion from sprocket center. -1/+0
There's a small torque difference, it doesn't feel life changing but my butt dyno says it's there. I think I notice the loss of rotating mass, but its not a lot so it could be in my head. At 115 kph I went from 5000 RPM to about 5250 RPM and the gear indicator is working as normal right now.
Hi all, I received the 520 conversion kit (-1/+0) from sprocket centre this morning and found that the front sprocket is one side of the edge thicker than the other one (see photo below). Could anyone tell me which side should be facing out on the bike? Thanks in advance.
[image: WeChat Image_20171208090729.jpg]
I can't tell u, but when u take the other one off, take note
I can't remember, I think the "15T" faced out, but I set them both on a flat surface with the inside face of the stock sprocket facing down and checked which way it needed to face for the teeth to align.
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The measurements from back of sprocket (engine side) to mounting surface shoul be the same as the stock one.
Thank you all for the top tips.
Superlite makes a set that looks really nice. I used stock gearing. Was tempted to go lower but doing so might make it run in 4 valve mode on the highway, depending on how fast you're going. With stock gearing 80 mph is just below the VTEC transition and I wanted to stay that way.
16 hours ago, SlfAwreWith stock gearing 80 mph is just below the VTEC transition and I wanted to stay that way.
Thats odd, mine does 95 in top before the VTEC cuts in
Odd. Gearing is 16/43 which is stock. I might be able to get to 85 or so but that feels like right close to the transition. For motorway riding 85 is plenty enough to get a ticket around here, and I figured I rather have it running clearly on one side of the transition or the other as opposed to right on the crossover point.
Stock gearing here is 15/42, there's the difference
Everytime I used the car pool lanes in CA it seemed to be compulsory to do at least 10 mph faster than the posted limit
Stock gearing is 15/42 where? I still don't think that's low enough for 80 to be just below VTEC. I changed to 15/45 and VTEC comes in at ~83-84. It'll come in as late as 7k/~87 if I'm just slowly easing up, I guess it also considers throttle position.
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You're correct 16/43, wrong bike, but the VFR does 95 in top at just below VTEC cut in
Thumbs, 12/10/2017 at 11:55 AMThats odd, mine does 95 in top before the VTEC cuts in
Indicated 95 mph? That would be 90 mph true. Mine also does same as your. VTEC starts to kick in at in indicated 95 mph (90 mph true).
7 hours ago, ThumbsEverytime I used the car pool lanes in CA it seemed to be compulsory to do at least 10 mph faster than the posted limit
Most times it is because our speed limits are artificially low. Also, and this is important to note, it depends on how vigilant and enthusiastic the highway patrol is.
For example, the speed limits in most Interstates out in the deserts of California will say 70 mph. But you will get passed by everything except motorhomes at that speed! Most traffic move at 80 out there, and a great many go around 85. OTOH, on the highway leading from the greater Los Angeles basin to the Bay Area (San Francisco), the California Highway Patrol are very aggressive. So the posted speed limit is between 65-70 mph and most traffic will move around 75-78 mph. I personally wouldn't attempt to cruise through that section of highway at greater than 80 mph for long periods without a proper Radar Detector. Every time I go through there I see so many vehicles getting speeding citations.
jhenley17, 12/12/2017 at 5:48 AMStock gearing is 15/42 where? I still don't think that's low enough for 80 to be just below VTEC. I changed to 15/45 and VTEC comes in at ~83-84. It'll come in as late as 7k/~87 if I'm just slowly easing up, I guess it also considers throttle position.
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I thought the VTEC switch is a mechanical thing involving oil pressure. I'm not sure there's any electronics like throttle position involved. On my bike it seems like it usually happens between 6500-7000 rpm, so I geared it to run about 6k at 80ish MPH.
Rogue_Biker, 12/12/2017 at 8:14 PMI personally wouldn't attempt to cruise through that section of highway at greater than 80 mph for long periods without a proper Radar Detector. Every time I go through there I see so many vehicles getting speeding citations.
Whatever happened to the MKI? Surely with that volume of traffic it would be far easier?
Agree about the speed anything over 80 and your asking for it.
12 hours ago, SlfAwreI thought the VTEC switch is a mechanical thing involving oil pressure. I'm not sure there's any electronics like throttle position involved. On my bike it seems like it usually happens between 6500-7000 rpm, so I geared it to run about 6k at 80ish MPH.
I believe VTEC is activated via Oil Pressure and coolant temperature. Meaning when above a certain temperature, the ECM will allow the VTEC spool Valve to open, or something to that effect.
SlfAwre, 12/13/2017 at 9:43 PMI thought the VTEC switch is a mechanical thing involving oil pressure. I'm not sure there's any electronics like throttle position involved. On my bike it seems like it usually happens between 6500-7000 rpm, so I geared it to run about 6k at 80ish MPH.
The actuation of the pin engaging the VTEC valves is mechanical and actuated by pressurized oil. However the delivery of pressurized oil to the pin is controlled by the VTEC solenoid valve, which is controlled by the ECM. There is logic involved, including coolant temp, gear selection, and RPM.
VTEC solenoid valve will not fire below a certain engine temp, nor will it engage in neutral, once preceding conditions are met the actuation is controlled by RPM (ignition pulse generator W/Y, Y). It has been noted that this critical RPM has varied by model year. I've never experienced, nor read, that the Throttle Position is involved in this logic.
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Edited December 15, 2017 by Lee 2002I just noticed this is an 8 Gen forum. My reply is based on 6 Gen knowledge.
Lee 2002, 12/15/2017 at 1:11 PMVTEC...nor will it engage in neutral...
Interesting - I've sort of noticed that (but never really thought about it) from having done a few videos of my exhaust where I'm always in neutral - there's no noticeable change when going over the usual RPM threshold. But of course in the one exhaust video I did where I was in gear the VTEC transition was dramatic - see my old vid below. Question: What if I'm in 1st gear (or any gear) but I pull the clutch in and then rev it - will the VTEC kick in?
[video: https://www.youtube.com/embed/NMTfn26SWEM?feature=oembed]Great opportunity to make a vid there Gator. 👍
GatorGreg, 12/17/2017 at 9:29 AMInteresting - I've sort of noticed that (but never really thought about it) from having done a few videos of my exhaust where I'm always in neutral - there's no noticeable change when going over the usual RPM threshold. But of course in the one exhaust video I did where I was in gear the VTEC transition was dramatic - see my old vid below. Question: What if I'm in 1st gear (or any gear) but I pull the clutch in and then rev it - will the VTEC kick in?
[video: https://www.youtube.com/embed/NMTfn26SWEM?feature=oembed]
Hey Gator that's a Great video, music to my ears, no point revving it with the clutch pulled in or stationary, under load is the best. I hope that was only the camera that crashed at the end - did it survive ?
Cheers Grum.
End of thread · 46 posts recovered Wayback Machine snapshot 6 Jan 2018