VFRDiscussion ARCHIVE / READ-ONLYREAD-ONLY

Time to crank up the SuperCharger.

64 posts Started 28 Mar 2019 Last recovered post 20 May 2022 Wayback Machine snapshot 9 Aug 2025

#1

After many years of hibernation it's time to take my SuperCharger to the next level.

In a matter of weeks I will receive 3 O2 bungs attached to a header! Thank you so much to the guys responsible for all your hard work making this becoming reality!

I'm going for 2 widebands, one for front and one for rear cylinders.

This is where rapidbike comes in to play.

So some questions to the expert rapidbike guys in her:

Firstly, I'm now running a custom tune pc3.

I don't know yet what file format rapidbike uses, but is there anyway of using my pc3 file on RB?

I'm taking it for granted, if possible to convert, that mytuningbike will be able to make the tweaks necessary without the need for Dyno with the base pc3 file?

If this is a no, will it be able to correct a stock 5th gen RB file to a safe file?

With no detonation detection, other than by ear, how can one make sure this never happens without a Dyno? I'm not even sure it's audible under any of these circumstances... Is it?

We have 98 octane RON with no ethanol available, but also available with 5% ethanol.

Is there a flex-fuel sniffer available for the rapidbike?

Does rapidbike have a MAP sensor option?

Does rapidbike have an IAT sensor option?

I don't yet know if there is another 20hp left in my stock injectors, but this will be apparent after trying.

I know that the 6th gen revs a little higher, and again I am guessing that rods/piston are identical to the 5th gen, but for now, and for comparison before/after header/rapidbike and fear of maxing injectors, I'm going to leave as is for now.

My goal is 210chp, with stock brakes and suspension just to get some excitement back in riding my bike [image: emoji848.png] [image: emoji12.png]

#4

Wakken,

The man to talk to about Rapid Bike is CandeyRedRC46, he seems to be the one most knowledgeable on it's capabilities. The other person to speak to would be Yaman Turan at Rapid Bike, he was very helpful when I spoke with him when I was looking into the RB. He responds to the general email mailbox: info@rapidbike.us

#5
Duc2V4 Wakken,
 
The man to talk to about Rapid Bike is CandeyRedRC46, he seems to be the one most knowledgeable on it's capabilities. The other person to speak to would be Yaman Turan at Rapid Bike, he was very helpful when I spoke with him when I was looking into the RB. He responds to the general email mailbox: info@rapidbike.us
Let's hope Jo sees this post then [image: emoji16.png]
#6
9 hours ago, WackenSS

After many years of hibernation it's time to take my SuperCharger to the next level.

In a matter of weeks I will receive 3 O2 bungs attached to a header! Thank you so much to the guys responsible for all your hard work making this becoming reality!

I'm going for 2 widebands, one for front and one for rear cylinders.

This is where rapidbike comes in to play.

So some questions to the expert rapidbike guys in her:

Firstly, I'm now running a custom tune pc3.

I don't know yet what file format rapidbike uses, but is there anyway of using my pc3 file on RB?

I'm taking it for granted, if possible to convert, that mytuningbike will be able to make the tweaks necessary without the need for Dyno with the base pc3 file?

If this is a no, will it be able to correct a stock 5th gen RB file to a safe file?

With no detonation detection, other than by ear, how can one make sure this never happens without a Dyno? I'm not even sure it's audible under any of these circumstances... Is it?

We have 98 octane RON with no ethanol available, but also available with 5% ethanol.

Is there a flex-fuel sniffer available for the rapidbike?

Does rapidbike have a MAP sensor option?

Does rapidbike have an IAT sensor option?

I don't yet know if there is another 20hp left in my stock injectors, but this will be apparent after trying.

I know that the 6th gen revs a little higher, and again I am guessing that rods/piston are identical to the 5th gen, but for now, and for comparison before/after header/rapidbike and fear of maxing injectors, I'm going to leave as is for now.

My goal is 210chp, with stock brakes and suspension just to get some excitement back in riding my bike [image: emoji848.png][image: emoji12.png]

Check in with CornerCarver - he's got his Toro bike tuned using a Rapid Bike setup.   He's got it dialed in - definitely knows what's what with 6th gen forced induction.

#7
Cogswell Check in with CornerCarver - he's got his Toro bike tuned using a Rapid Bike setup.   He's got it dialed in - definitely knows what's what with 6th gen forced induction.
 
I'm 5th gen, but I'm sure the difference is minor and with mytunig bike module should be easy enough to translate.
#8


A small update.

Headers showed up one week ago, so
i'm starting my rapidbike research based on the somewhat limited knowledge the Norwegian distributor has. RapidBike is pretty new to all of us, besides one crf1000 africa-twin install with amazing results in driveability!


We discussed the possibility of adding sensors on the rapidbike race module as it seems that the race ECU has the same hardware across all bikes and should be able to handle a better MAP sensor solution than the OEM one. If it's even needed.


They will forward our thoughts to Italy where the experience is at to get definitive answers.


I'm not deep in the sensor set up yet, but I know that the OEM ECU triggers FI light when pressure is detected. This issue was "solved" by inserting a restrictor inside the hose and reversing the one-way valve to let positive pressure escape. This is based upon memory of conversations I had with Dan upon initial installation wich is light-years ago...

Regarding the file system conversion question, it seems to be a definite no-go.

I think my solution will be to print the blocks from the PC3 map and see where and how much is added, and plot it into the RB.
Mytuning module will correct this while im driving on the safe side of detonation, and I'll alter the numbers based on the wideband sensors from time to time to get closer to a base map.


As for the flex fuel, Wich I forgot to talk about, I'm was thinking about the haltec sensor wich elegantly sniffs out what ethanol quantity is present. So there is my answer, it is not able to detect what octane I am running, just how much ethanol is in my fuel.
Our 95 octane Ron fuel has 5% ethanol, and our 98 has nothing.

Been running 95 since day one, except when on Dyno, and with stock ignition advance thus has been hassle free even with insane ambient temperatures.
I'm not going to change the pressure as of now, so I'm going to stick with 95 fuel untill I start playing with advance or going for higher pressure.

That's my thoughts as of now.


[image: a3a045266f530daddaade5ccb94a2adc.jpg]

#9

What is it you need to know about RBR ? I have it setup on my 5th gen with MTB & 120hp normally aspirated.

As an FYI, I just changed the throttle bodies to a spare set of 99 ones with a choke lever as the wax unit on my original Y2K set has always shut off to early around 45c & the bike stalls on cool days.  

I’ve taper bored the entry to the TB’s up from 40mm with a step near the throttle plate where the stock intake trumpets rest, to 42mm with no step. I also fitted a set of cleaned secondhand CBR929 4-hole injectors which are almost a straight swap.

Then I started it up, idled it to operating temperature & balanced the starter valves & adjusted the idle speed. Took it for a test run & there were various places it was rubbish & stumbling, slow accelerating etc, the more I rode it the better it got. Now after 45 miles it was almost back to how it was before. I stopped after 20miles & accepted the trims in base map & again at 45 miles. 

It was quite lean between 2000-7000rpm. Now its great again. It will need  my new big airbox to complete it, as it’s running the previous 40mm entry dual stack version. But I’ll get round to that later.

One thing I noticed is with the max/min trim level set to 15%, the MTB adjusts fuel as required for your set point now, where as before it was a max/min deflection number I.e. +15-15 in the table. This is better as it quickly brings the fuelling to a good AFR.

Re your turbo version. If you need higher CC injectors, then the early Suzuki Hayabusa used the same injectors as did Honda Civic & CRV. There are some high quality 12-hole increased CC direct replacement injectors available for the Hayabusa.

The RBR supports up to 4 MTB’s and CR46 has that setup on his. The newer version support the Bosch 4,9 wideband sensor which is a big step up from the old 4.2 that I’m using, it’s more stable & much quicker to react & last longer. Depending on your budget & how much spannering you want to do you can you can do a couple of things. 1. Buy four & let it all be fully automated. Or 2. Buy one & add 5 tap points to the exhaust. Then use the 5th point in the collector to average all 4 cylinders & save that map. Then move the sensor to each header individually & check/tune each cylinder & save each cylinders map. When all 4 are done compare them if there is no major difference then you can just use the 5th point single map. But if there are large enough variations then switch to 1 map per cylinder & manually add the base maps you previously saved. The MTB would now be redundant, but if there were variations in injector flow, you could always match those injectors in the throttle bodies. As in the two richest ones in cyl 1+3 & the leanest ones in 2+4, remember the ECU map will be richer on the rears by default. 

As always YMMV 

#10

That is a great write-up Mr Mohawk!

Sorry for the pause, this is still something that is going to happen!

I'm now in dialog with the distributor which has to contact the manufacturer. This has been in hold for a while now due to covid and me slacking [image: emoji53.png]

So, getting back on track I've asked dimsport to answer if the RB module is capable of more sensors, expecting some more info on this next week.

#11

I got an answer I never suspected! copy/paste via our distributor:

Unfortunately it is not possible attaching other sensor to Rapid Bike (except for the wideband Lambda of My Tuning Bike).

But maybe it will be interesting for that customer knowing that he could connect the Rapid Bike harness to the air pressure sensor of the compressor instead of the throttle position sensor! In that way he can make the Rapid Bike map working according to RPM and boost pressure.

 

Other people already did this successfully. Main obstacle for VFR 800 application is that the wire for TPS sensor is into a big 10-ways plug (instead of being a free wire like on most of the other wirings), so he would have to modify the wiring harness to perform that connection successfully. If he wanted to proceed let me know so I can provide more details!



I don't have a MAP sensor on the rotrex, but I guess that would be esy to add another. I suspect the oem sensor is low pressure only.

Anyone heard of this?

I have been looking over the standalone options in Google and can't see what options are better than the dimsport unit so I ordered today. Should be in my hands 10 days from now.

#12

Dan once told me that the s2000 injectors are a drop in and 390cc, plentyful for my current goal and then some!
what needs to be modified on the gsxr ones? Do you have Part number?


Seems like the s2000 injectors share design with the CR-V. Need to pull out my spare vfr injectors and find the specs on the keihin units from the options available from the fourwheelers.

A set of 06164-pca-000 (CR-V) cost around 200 USD new as far as I can tell, but im sure they are lower in CC than the s2000 ones.


I really need to start looking at numbers again, way to much has been overwritten on the HDD between my shoulders...

#13
Mohawk What is it you need to know about RBR ? I have it setup on my 5th gen with MTB & 120hp normally aspirated.
 
As an FYI, I just changed the throttle bodies to a spare set of 99 ones with a choke lever as the wax unit on my original Y2K set has always shut off to early around 45c & the bike stalls on cool days.  
 
I’ve taper bored the entry to the TB’s up from 40mm with a step near the throttle plate where the stock intake trumpets rest, to 42mm with no step. I also fitted a set of cleaned secondhand CBR929 4-hole injectors which are almost a straight swap.
 
Then I started it up, idled it to operating temperature & balanced the starter valves & adjusted the idle speed. Took it for a test run & there were various places it was rubbish & stumbling, slow accelerating etc, the more I rode it the better it got. Now after 45 miles it was almost back to how it was before. I stopped after 20miles & accepted the trims in base map & again at 45 miles. 
It was quite lean between 2000-7000rpm. Now its great again. It will need  my new big airbox to complete it, as it’s running the previous 40mm entry dual stack version. But I’ll get round to that later.
 
One thing I noticed is with the max/min trim level set to 15%, the MTB adjusts fuel as required for your set point now, where as before it was a max/min deflection number I.e. +15-15 in the table. This is better as it quickly brings the fuelling to a good AFR.
 
Re your turbo version. If you need higher CC injectors, then the early Suzuki Hayabusa used the same injectors as did Honda Civic & CRV. There are some high quality 12-hole increased CC direct replacement injectors available for the Hayabusa.
 
The RBR supports up to 4 MTB’s and CR46 has that setup on his. The newer version support the Bosch 4,9 wideband sensor which is a big step up from the old 4.2 that I’m using, it’s more stable & much quicker to react & last longer. Depending on your budget & how much spannering you want to do you can you can do a couple of things. 1. Buy four & let it all be fully automated. Or 2. Buy one & add 5 tap points to the exhaust. Then use the 5th point in the collector to average all 4 cylinders & save that map. Then move the sensor to each header individually & check/tune each cylinder & save each cylinders map. When all 4 are done compare them if there is no major difference then you can just use the 5th point single map. But if there are large enough variations then switch to 1 map per cylinder & manually add the base maps you previously saved. The MTB would now be redundant, but if there were variations in injector flow, you could always match those injectors in the throttle bodies. As in the two richest ones in cyl 1+3 & the leanest ones in 2+4, remember the ECU map will be richer on the rears by default. 
 
As always YMMV 
So that's that then...
[image: 84ef922f5d965d1879dd315bf7fc1e90.jpg]
#15

your clutch won't hold much additional power.

Raeva mi verker 

#16
11 minutes ago, squirrelbrains

your clutch won't hold much additional power.

Raeva mi verker 

Well, it'll hold this much:

[image: Torocharger-11-1-08.thumb.gif.fe45361859f8d6af2375272fd64bd50e.gif]

How much more does he need?!?

(I'm missing my Yellow Peril,,,)

Ciao,

JZH

#17
7 hours ago, squirrelbrains

your clutch won't hold much additional power.

Raeva mi verker 

Stock, no - but the kit came with heavier clutch springs and the frictions and steels need to be in excellent condition.

#18

OK u have alot more heat 2 dissipate so overheating will be problem, innit ?  on a bike prone 2 run run hot alreadi ??

#19

Hey Wacken, the RBR uses a variable table like the PC. And it is a % +/- add/remove duty cycle system too, same as PC So you can pop any PC map into excel & then select what you want from the PC & drop into the RBR map for the same cells. 

#20
squirrelbrains your clutch won't hold much additional power.
 
Raeva mi verker 
Hvorfor har du vondt i ræva?

Yeah, I've been thinking about that, it's been holding up nicely for 30k km now, but it will let go at some point - roumors are that the 6th gen clutch can take serious abuse and are better than the 5th gen...
Will be taken care of if it is indeed an issue.
#21
Mohawk Hey Wacken, the RBR uses a variable table like the PC. And it is a % +/- add/remove duty cycle system too, same as PC So you can pop any PC map into excel & then select what you want from the PC & drop into the RBR map for the same cells. 
 
That's nice to hear! Just upgraded my laptop to one that can handle more than a calculator and will download the map and start looking through it this weekend [image: emoji846.png]
#22
squirrelbrains OK u have alot more heat 2 dissipate so overheating will be problem, innit ?  on a bike prone 2 run run hot alreadi ??
Well one should think so, but actually it is not a big deal with this Nordic climate.
Second year with the SS i rode it to Italy so I know what everyone is talking about for sure - almost 2 weeks of no boost and had to make a Heineken roadside cooling duct to keep it under 110° while cruising at 120km/h on the superstrada.

In top of that, the loctite on the rotrex pulley gave in due to heat causing catastrophic failure to the splines. Had to go home with the belt in the luggage and limp home keeping it under 5500rpm with PC disconnected and barely any throttle available. Just 2600km...

First fire up after parking in my garage at home 2 if my iridums gave in due to an AFR never seen in a vfr before [image: emoji28.png]

#23
JZH Well, it'll hold this much:
 
[image: Torocharger-11-1-08.thumb.gif.fe45361859f8d6af2375272fd64bd50e.gif]
 
How much more does he need?!?
 
(I'm missing my Yellow Peril,,,)
 
Ciao,
 
JZH
It was at 183hp/76nm in 2010.
Clutch has proven to be rock solid!

To be honest, I'm more worried about the transmission and the brakes...
#24

Dimsport confirmed today that there is only fuelcut available for quick shift. That's no good...
They also confirmed that delivery will happen next week.

#25

🤔 WiLD Headers o2 sensors are 1+2 (L) & 3+4(R), same with RB injection maps. so you may have to go Mohawk's route and add some more bungs and individually map with 1 or go all out with 4 wbs

With the laptop connected to the RB you can go into configuration of injection maps. im not sure if they can be changed to 1+3(B) & 2+4(F)

#26
WackenSS, 7/11/2020 at 10:46 AM

So took another day studying what Dimsport have done to the mapping on the different generations just to educate myself.

5th gen is the same across the board as expected. 6th gen however has lots of added ignition on both above and below the vtec transition point. i can not see any other reason for this than the vtec was conservative on the ignition table from the factory.

Pistons have a different PN but the rings are the same and compression is at 11.6 on both. visually googling the pistons does not reveal any differences on the piston top. might be that they are lighter with less mass in the piston crown and that might also be the reason why the 6th gen rev a little higher as rods are the same on both. There is a whooping 4 degree difference with 5th gen at only +1 @ 7300rpm...

WOT @ 12000rpm the 5th have +1 and vtec has -1

in the low range the 5th gen has lots of added fuel up to 3700 at throttle roll-on and roughly the same after.

I dont know why RB starts at 1600rpm and sets upper limit at 12200 in their blocks.

Vtec has a narrower valve included angle.

#27
WackenSS, 7/8/2020 at 7:57 PM

One thing I have been thinking I should have done is to see the actual pressure from the plenum. Im curious to see if the rotrex is causing a restriction below where it starts spinning enough to make positive pressure. it's around the 5000rpm mark - I guess 200 below. That would furter explain the fueling tables being subtracted with the pulleys I'm using.
 

The simple answer here would be to fit 2-stoke reed valve blocks into the plenum, thus if at any point the plenum chamber is at less than atmospheric pressure then they will open & allow air in !

#28
WackenSS, 7/8/2020 at 8:54 PM

For the experts out there - any point in fitting an EGT in the collector?
It's to far away right?

It will never be turbo temps for sure and if might even be totally wasted moneys, but I love numbers like this [image: emoji846.png]

You could always use 2-stroke IR EGT sensors, one per header. 

#29
WackenSS, 7/11/2020 at 10:46 AM

So took another day studying what Dimsport have done to the mapping on the different generations just to educate myself.

5th gen is the same across the board as expected. 6th gen however has lots of added ignition on both above and below the vtec transition point. i can not see any other reason for this than the vtec was conservative on the ignition table from the factory.

Pistons have a different PN but the rings are the same and compression is at 11.6 on both. visually googling the pistons does not reveal any differences on the piston top. might be that they are lighter with less mass in the piston crown and that might also be the reason why the 6th gen rev a little higher as rods are the same on both. There is a whooping 4 degree difference with 5th gen at only +1 @ 7300rpm...

WOT @ 12000rpm the 5th have +1 and vtec has -1

in the low range the 5th gen has lots of added fuel up to 3700 at throttle roll-on and roughly the same after.

I dont know why RB starts at 1600rpm and sets upper limit at 12200 in their blocks.

5th gen was RC45 engine fitted with 180 crank +2mm added stroke. They were tuned to max ignition advance. Max I have been able to add up to 6k rpm is 3degrees on high octane fuel. 
 

The 6th gen revs to same as 5th gen rpm, 11,750 red line & 12,200 ignition rev limiter cut off.
 

6th gen has narrower included valve angle so valve pockets are cut at a different angle. Otherwise AFAIK pistons are the same. 

#30
1 hour ago, Mohawk

5th gen was RC45 engine fitted with 180 crank +2mm added stroke. They were tuned to max ignition advance. Max I have been able to add up to 6k rpm is 3degrees on high octane fuel. 
 

The 6th gen revs to same as 5th gen rpm, 11,750 red line & 12,200 ignition rev limiter cut off.
 

6th gen has narrower included valve angle so valve pockets are cut at a different angle. Otherwise AFAIK pistons are the same. 

Great intel - thanks. 

#31
WackenSS, 7/3/2020 at 2:08 PM


Det høres kjent ut [image: emoji846.png]

Vfr800"fi" is the factory name on the European version, of course the fi was short for forced induction...

Its been absolutely trouble free after the initial bugs mentioned earlier where worked out.
I've worn out 2 belts, and both bearings in the PTO. Still have that same sprocket and chain as pre charger actually.

My goal is putting the 200ish crank hp directly on the wheel.
 

@WackenSS do you have a part number handy for the belt? I'd like to order a spare

#32

Found what I needed thank to @Cogswell

#33

As I read this, it hit me that I know three people with supercharged VFRs! What are the odds of that?😀

#34
21 hours ago, SEBSPEED

Found what I needed thank to @Cogswell

Good! I'm sorry for not replying here, but I don't get Tapatalk/vfrd to work.

Do you have the kit as well?

#35

This is a really nice product!

#36
16 minutes ago, Sweeper

As I read this, it hit me that I know three people with supercharged VFRs! What are the odds of that?😀

Well, you have made some right choices in your life 🙂

I seem to remember 11 sold...

#37

Today I had the time to sneak the vfr past all my projects and in to the shop.

It's a wierd feeling because I am super excited to find the cause of the loudest supercharger i ever heard - and I've been at top-fuel dragster shows many times!

I have this diseases that finds pleasure in mechanical faults, even on my own stuff... It's a great feeling to finally tear a rotrex down as i e been itching to se how it's made.

Time to spend mad amounts of USD, again...

#38
3 hours ago, WackenSS

Time to spend mad amounts of USD, again...

Better than parking your pennies on a savings account no?  :tongue:

[image: image.thumb.png.da1042089c2044fc9998f9cec6f225f9.png]

#39

supercharger on your vfr ??

bike will overheat easily, and the clutch might not be able to handle the extra power.

RAEVA MI VERKER !

#40
2 hours ago, squirrelman

supercharger on your vfr ??

bike will overheat easily, and the clutch might not be able to handle the extra power.

RAEVA MI VERKER !

:laughing6-hehe: :laughing6-hehe: :laughing6-hehe: :laughing6-hehe: :laughing6-hehe:

#41

[image: image.png.1dd71e17538d8a32d66a2577836f751a.png]

Does this still hold true?

Back in 2016 I kept this in the back of my head...

[image: IMAG4488.jpg]

#42

I hate riding a motorcycle at posted speeds! I'd propose that there should be a separate limit for motorcycles. Maybe I'll run for public office?

#43
1 hour ago, Sweeper

I hate riding a motorcycle at posted speeds! I'd propose that there should be a separate limit for motorcycles. Maybe I'll run for public office?

Just promise to cancel all motorcycle debt - you'll win for sure!  :wink:

#44
Mohawk, 3/6/2022 at 11:22 PM

You could always use 2-stroke IR EGT sensors, one per header. 

That is a great idea sir!

#45
21 hours ago, Dutchy

Better than parking your pennies on a savings account no?  :tongue:

[image: image.thumb.png.da1042089c2044fc9998f9cec6f225f9.png]

I saw this last year at the bank, put it all in crypto instead - that makes these numbers look great in retrospect 😅

#46
18 hours ago, squirrelman

supercharger on your vfr ??

bike will overheat easily, and the clutch might not be able to handle the extra power.

RAEVA MI VERKER !

It's hot for sure, but Norway's not!

This clutch myth is surely diehard. I'm well over 30k km supercharged and almost 70k km total on a clutch from 99' only stronger springs.

Du mangler Æ i alfabetet ditt 😅

#47
11 hours ago, Dutchy

[image: image.png.1dd71e17538d8a32d66a2577836f751a.png]

Does this still hold true?

Back in 2016 I kept this in the back of my head...

[image: IMAG4488.jpg]

No, there is nothing true about it. The salary is approx double and the ticket price is based on how fast in km/h over the current speed limit. You can go to jail an be considered a criminal, but that's full send/all beans i guess.

I've had zero tickets on 2 wheels 👍

#48
5 hours ago, Sweeper

I hate riding a motorcycle at posted speeds! I'd propose that there should be a separate limit for motorcycles. Maybe I'll run for public office?

You go to office and fix this stupid rule!

#49

I'm ashamed! She does not look pretty without her clothes!

Let's see what we can do about this...

I've made some research and tried to analyze the charger failure.

There might be some very interesting information coming up for us rotrex guys as a result of this blown piece of danish technology.

#50
19 hours ago, WackenSS

I've made some research and tried to analyze the charger failure.

There might be some very interesting information coming up for us rotrex guys as a result of this blown piece of danish technology.

What do you have cooking? I'm interested to hear your findings.

I am aware that the newer iteration of the C15 does not use a shaft oil seal, and so all the oil needs to be located below the centerline of the shaft. I've taken that into account with my current installation. I've also added an oil cooler for the Rotrex oil. 

#51
51 minutes ago, SEBSPEED

What do you have cooking? I'm interested to hear your findings.

I am aware that the newer iteration of the C15 does not use a shaft oil seal, and so all the oil needs to be located below the centerline of the shaft. I've taken that into account with my current installation. I've also added an oil cooler for the Rotrex oil. 

I'll post my findings when i am sure everything is repairable and quoted.

The "gen2" rotrex C15 explicitly states that oil reservoir can not stay in Dan's location.

The reason for this is that the rotrex is a dry-sump with scavenging pump and it will start sending oil out behind the impeller.

Did you fab something nice already?

#52
11 hours ago, WackenSS

I'll post my findings when i am sure everything is repairable and quoted.

The "gen2" rotrex C15 explicitly states that oil reservoir can not stay in Dan's location.

The reason for this is that the rotrex is a dry-sump with scavenging pump and it will start sending oil out behind the impeller.

Did you fab something nice already?

I did, I mounted a new tank on the right side behind the fairing. I also reconstructed the cooling system with a different radiator configuration so I could add a cooler for the Rotrex oil. 

#53
3 hours ago, SEBSPEED

I did, I mounted a new tank on the right side behind the fairing. I also reconstructed the cooling system with a different radiator configuration so I could add a cooler for the Rotrex oil. 

:worthlesswithoutpics:

#54
9 hours ago, SEBSPEED

I did, I mounted a new tank on the right side behind the fairing. I also reconstructed the cooling system with a different radiator configuration so I could add a cooler for the Rotrex oil. 

I'm pretty sure the oil temps are ok, but that's a guess based on the climate i live in. I'll make a temp sensor thing this year just to confirm.

Do you have the gen2 version?

Pictures should be a must from what I've seen of your fab skills before.

In other news I've decided to do this the hard way.

I'll put everything together, rotrex fixed and unmodified, stock headers, no rapidbike, brakes and suspension and put in on the Dyno for fun and find the weight numbers before i start the diet and all-around upgrades.

This should go rather quickly - then for the upgrades, and it will also include a billet impeller either before or after the headers/rapidbike. 

#55
4 hours ago, WackenSS

I'm pretty sure the oil temps are ok, but that's a guess based on the climate i live in. I'll make a temp sensor thing this year just to confirm.

Do you have the gen2 version?

Pictures should be a must from what I've seen of your fab skills before.

In other news I've decided to do this the hard way.

I'll put everything together, rotrex fixed and unmodified, stock headers, no rapidbike, brakes and suspension and put in on the Dyno for fun and find the weight numbers before i start the diet and all-around upgrades.

This should go rather quickly - then for the upgrades, and it will also include a billet impeller either before or after the headers/rapidbike. 

I have an earlier model Rotrex from the original Toro production run. I did the oil relocation to save time in the future in case it's needed, and because I was re-plumbing the system to add the cooler anyway. Rotrex states in their texts that an oil cooler is mandatory on installation, so I figured it can't hurt. 

I have been taking pics along the way, I'll post them later when I get the bike done and I can relax a little. 

Do you have someone that can balance the rebuilt rotating assembly for you?

#56
2 hours ago, SEBSPEED

I have an earlier model Rotrex from the original Toro production run. I did the oil relocation to save time in the future in case it's needed, and because I was re-plumbing the system to add the cooler anyway. Rotrex states in their texts that an oil cooler is mandatory on installation, so I figured it can't hurt. 

I have been taking pics along the way, I'll post them later when I get the bike done and I can relax a little. 

Do you have someone that can balance the rebuilt rotating assembly for you?

There is no need to balance this assembly. The shaft is supported on 3 large rollers and is machined as a single part so this is naturally balanced. The impeller is cast OEM and balanced 2 ways alone before it is put on the shaft and fixed with a steel nut on the first versions and aluminium nut on the later gen1's

Your setup certainly needs pics 🙂

I guessing this is not the warbird?

#57
2 hours ago, WackenSS

There is no need to balance this assembly. The shaft is supported on 3 large rollers and is machined as a single part so this is naturally balanced. The impeller is cast OEM and balanced 2 ways alone before it is put on the shaft and fixed with a steel nut on the first versions and aluminium nut on the later gen1's

Your setup certainly needs pics 🙂

I guessing this is not the warbird?

Nice that you don't have to balance it. 

I am installing on my 2005 VTEC which still has fairings. I had been collecting parts for about 10 years and I got the itch to put them all on it at once  :wacko:

#58

Valve cover cleaned up nicely, radiators even more so.

I even found som hidden developing issues needed sorting.

The last pictures are just for fun.

Rsv4 water pump housing vs the VFR.

RC51 Left radiator vs VFR

Therese parts i have lying around just to see if there is any possibility of fabricating something already accessible to me.

[image: IMG_20220509_120449.thumb.jpg.f4fb430b3bd72b5edcb815bcebe79779.jpg][image: Left, behind the fan.]

#59

A pic from the other day. I have since installed the upper cowl with lights and am just waiting to get in the paint booth to finish the right side panel, then it will be done. 

#60
3 hours ago, SEBSPEED

A pic from the other day. I have since installed the upper cowl with lights and am just waiting to get in the paint booth to finish the right side panel, then it will be done. 

[image: 20220508_205433.jpg]

Is the lower chin fairing in the "V" going to fit over the 8th gen rad?  Mods for that in store? 

#61
4 hours ago, Cogswell

Is the lower chin fairing in the "V" going to fit over the 8th gen rad?  Mods for that in store? 

Mods in store and done, along with a rock guard. 

#62
SEBSPEED, 5/11/2022 at 8:33 PM

A pic from the other day. I have since installed the upper cowl with lights and am just waiting to get in the paint booth to finish the right side panel, then it will be done. 

[image: 20220508_205433.jpg]

Looking good as usual!

So you will have access to the dipstick through a hole in the right panel right?

You said you have been gathering parts for ages, but you had the complete SC kit minus the cooler or am I wrong?

No outboard support bearing on the rotrex?

Did you fab the toothed pulleys or are they the last revision from Dan?

Where did you put the rectifier?

Could we get a look under the hood Please 🙂😳

#63

Parts have arrived and i am pretty confident this will be a good working unit again.

A small change in plans. It is not possible to change the impeller without a total teardown of the rotrex, while interesting enough it's not something I want to do again just to change the impeller. 

Cast out, CNC in!

#64
WackenSS, 5/15/2022 at 3:23 PM

Looking good as usual!

So you will have access to the dipstick through a hole in the right panel right?

You said you have been gathering parts for ages, but you had the complete SC kit minus the cooler or am I wrong?

No outboard support bearing on the rotrex?

Did you fab the toothed pulleys or are they the last revision from Dan?

Where did you put the rectifier?

Could we get a look under the hood Please 🙂😳

No dipstick, I added a clear tube to indicate oil level

I bought a complete used A&A kit, one of the original 6g kits. I made the oil cooler from a 6g radiator. 

New larger SH847 rr is mounted on the left side of the frame now. 

I didn't get a chance to make a thread for my rebuild before leaving on a trip, but I plan to make a list of mods with pics when I return.[image: 20220426_192857.thumb.jpg.72936c3130983f2712f80fc29462dbdc.jpg]

End of thread · 64 posts recovered Wayback Machine snapshot 9 Aug 2025