I have charging issues when the bike is warmed up. I replaced the stator as well as the R/R. I also replaced the connector going into the R/R due to one burnt connector. Amps coming out of the stator are good.
When the bike is cold and the battery is full, it charges above 14 at 5k rpm. However, after the bike gets to running temps, the voltage drops and charges around 12.8-13k and slowly drops.
Could this be a ground issue? At this point I'm exhausted and getting angry at spending a lot of money just to not have the issue fixed.
Have a very close inspection of the 30a main fuse within your starter relay for any sign of heat stress, it can suffer from hi resistance contacts. Make sure the R/R ground measures rock solid back to the battery negative terminal.
Are you also sure your battery is healthy? Make sure it's connections are clean and tight.
Have a very close inspection of the 30a main fuse within your starter relay for any sign of heat stress, it can suffer from hi resistance contacts. Make sure the R/R ground measures rock solid back to the battery negative terminal.
Are you also sure your battery is healthy? Make sure it's connections are clean and tight.
I forgot to mention I also shelled out money for a new battery. I'm going to take it to have it tested again today just to make sure nothing has happened in the meantime. Am I able to take the ground off the starter relay and wire it directly to the negative terminal of the battery? What about the positive, can I wire that directly to the battery as well and just bypass the starter relay all together? I understand I'd have to have an in-line fuse, but I'm afraid of bypassing the starter relay with the positive and ground.
Am I able to take the ground off the starter relay and wire it directly to the negative terminal of the battery? What about the positive, can I wire that directly to the battery as well and just bypass the starter relay all together? I understand I'd have to have an in-line fuse, but I'm afraid of bypassing the starter relay with the positive and ground.
No need to be doing bypass. You can't bypass the starter relay all together! You wouldn't be able to start your bike! You don't have any starting issues anyway!
Unplug the R/R connector and just make sure the Green ground wire measure zero ohms back to the Negative terminal, you could also confirm the same for the Red/white wire to the battery Positive terminal.
Have a very close look at your main fuse and its connections in the starter relay as mentioned.
Also when you have the fault active back probe the three stator wires coming into your R/R and confirm the AC voltage is not lost.
No need to be doing bypass. You can't bypass the starter relay all together! You wouldn't be able to start your bike! You don't have any starting issues anyway!
Unplug the R/R connector and just make sure the Green ground wire measure zero ohms back to the Negative terminal, you could also confirm the same for the Red/white wire to the battery Positive terminal.
Have a very close look at your main fuse and its connections in the starter relay as mentioned.
Also when you have the fault active back probe the three stator wires coming into your R/R and confirm the AC voltage is not lost.
Good luck.
Okay, I wasn't sure if that was the main wire powering it or if it was just an additional plug into it. I'll have to recheck all of it. I checked it all before and everything seemed to be in working order. I've also tried multiple regulators just in case and they're all reading the same. I'm at work now, but I'll recheck the connections tonight.
Any idea where the grounds connect to the frame? If they were corroded, that would affect it too right? When I search for it I can't find the locations of the actual grounds on the frame.
The wiring harness has a ground point on the right side of the frame not too far from the stator plug. The ground from the battery is connected on the left side of the bike near the front of the motor. Check out page 1-35 and 1-37 of the service manual.
The wiring harness has a ground point on the right side of the frame not too far from the stator plug. The ground from the battery is connected on the left side of the bike near the front of the motor. Check out page 1-35 and 1-37 of the service manual.
Checked it all again. All voltage readings came out fine. Once again as soon as it got warm the voltages dropped like a rock and it stopped charging.
Warm up the bike to the fault point, stop the engine and unplug the stator connector run the engine and confirm the AC voltage output is correct or not. Or perhaps just back probe the conector and see if you're loosing AC input volts.
Assume you don't have any added accessories that could be causing issues with current draw?
And for the third time, have you throughly checked the main fuse and its connection for hi resistance joints or heat stress within the starter relay?
Warm up the bike to the fault point, stop the engine and unplug the stator connector run the engine and confirm the AC voltage output is correct or not. Or perhaps just back probe the conector and see if you're loosing AC input volts.
Assume you don't have any added accessories that could be causing issues with current draw?
And for the third time, have you throughly checked the main fuse and its connection for hi resistance joints or heat stress within the starter relay?
We checked the main fuse and all the connections. I took it apart to make sure it was clean. Fuse looked good and no burnt connectors. Earlier we checked all the voltages and they were reading identical to the battery and the connector coming out of the regulator.
I ran it until it got hot hot and the fan started to turn on and off. Stators Amps decreased but were consistent on all 3 wires. It was around 45 amps at about 5-6k rpm, which is lower than when it was cold. However, I just replaced the stator yesterday with a brand new one. The new one is giving these readings.
One thing to note, while I was playing with the headlights I flicked it from high to low and the lights turned completely off for a couple seconds. During this time the charging jumped from 13v to 14v. When the lights turned back on to the low beam the voltage went back down into the 12s.
Will a bad connection with the headlight switch affect it like that or was that just a weird anomaly.
I hate electrical crap. I’m not good at it and franctly it makes me really mad that I can’t figure it out.
I ran it until it got hot hot and the fan started to turn on and off. Stators Amps decreased but were consistent on all 3 wires. It was around 45 amps at about 5-6k rpm, which is lower than when it was cold. However, I just replaced the stator yesterday with a brand new one. The new one is giving these readings.
Assume you mean 45v AC (not Amps!) most stators at 5000rpm would normally generate an AC voltage of greater than 50v AC. 45v AC seems low.
Wonder if you have a load issue that is dropping your charge voltage.
You could try removing Fuses A,B,C and E running the bike on minimum electrics and see if the fault returns. If it dissappears then one by one insert the fuses till you find the one causing the excessive load. As you mentioned there could well be something strange happening with your headlights, so try the bike with just the bare essential electrics to run and monitor your battery charge voltage at the battery.
According to the service manual your charge voltage should be between 13.5 to 16v at 5000rpm.
Assume you mean 45v AC (not Amps!) most stators at 5000rpm would normally generate an AC voltage of greater than 50v AC. 45v AC seems low.
Wonder if you have a load issue that is dropping your charge voltage.
You could try removing Fuses A,B,C and E running the bike on minimum electrics and see if the fault returns. If it dissappears then one by one insert the fuses till you find the one causing the excessive load. As you mentioned there could well be something strange happening with your headlights, so try the bike with just the bare essential electrics to run and monitor your battery charge voltage at the battery.
According to the service manual your charge voltage should be between 13.5 to 16v at 5000rpm.
Okay, I’ll give it a shot. I’m going to have the battery tested too just to make sure it hasn’t gone bad with all this crap.
i dont know that i can help you, but i am fallowing your post, i have the same issues, if i figure mine out i will let you know. please post your fix. thanks
I purchased the stator from Rick's Motorsport. I suspected the stator might be defective because I didn't think the AC volts were sitting where they should , so I sent it in for testing. Rick's told me the stator looked good, but they noticed one of the wires was pinched. I'm not sure if this would cause weird AC readings, but they replaced the wire and tested the stator. They said it tested good and are sending it back. I should receive it July 2nd.
At this point, I'm still lost. I'll put the stator back in with the new wiring while being extremely careful. Though I'm suspecting I was not the culprit of the pinched wire, as it sits inside an indent on the stator cover and gets covered by a metal bracket looking piece. Then we will see.
Besides the ground on the left side near the engine block, and the ground on the right side near the stator plug, is there a ground cluster anywhere? I saw on the VFR800 there is actually a large ground cluster that is orange in color. Do the 750's have anything similar to that where it is hidden inside the wiring tape? I also heard of a ground cluster near the headlights. Is that on this model? I can't find any information on any type of ground cluster on this year VFR.
I guess I'll update more on the 2nd as to whether the new stator wiring helped. If not, I'll be out of town on vacation until late July and again for a few weeks in August. so I guess there will not be much riding for me.
Yeah me to, that's why I mentioned three times for the OP to check the main fuse and starter relay area. He claims all is good there to!
I took the main fuse out and even replaced it even though it looked good, just to be sure. I also took apart the starter relay ground and checked it. I unplugged it and checked the plug as well. I sprayed the connector with electrical connector cleaner just to be safe. All looks great over there.
At this point, I'm still lost. I'll put the stator back in with the new wiring while being extremely careful. Though I'm suspecting I was not the culprit of the pinched wire, as it sits inside an indent on the stator cover and gets covered by a metal bracket looking piece. Then we will see.
That sounds promising. A pinched wire with the screws on that cover plate has caused issues with other people. It could well be a situation when heated it shorts to frame.
Good luck with the repaired unit when it arrives. Confirm your AC Output voltage before connecting to the R/R.
That sounds promising. A pinched wire with the screws on that cover plate has caused issues with other people. It could well be a situation when heated it shorts to frame.
Good luck with the repaired unit when it arrives. Confirm your AC Output voltage before connecting to the R/R.
Thank you. I wasn’t aware that would cause it to short to the frame in there. That gives me hope. I looked up how to do the diode test if regulators and it would appear based on that test that my ricks regulator is still good as none of the diodes appeared to fail and read consistent. So Tuesday night when the new stator arrives I’ll hook it up and test it some more.
They did say it tested amazing before sending it back.
Well. The stator is putting out the right numbers. Installed it today and put the new Ricks regulator on. Took it for a ride. Tested it after the ride again to make sure it was still putting out good numbers.
Stator is putting out good numbers. On initial startup, revving to 5k gave me 14.2V.
Went to for the ride and tested it when I got back home. 11.2 at Idle 12.2V at 5K rpm. So, as before, it’s not charging when it’s warm.
again, I tested the regulator using the method ricks says to use and it showed no bad diodes.
Is it normal for the frame to get so hot it feels like it’s going to burn you? Is it a bad ground, even though I took them off and checked the contacts?
When you mention the frame getting hot, are you talking about the subframe where the Regulator is mounted? If it is too hot to touch, it sounds like the regulator is sinking too much current and getting too hot. I suspect the Regulator is failing when hot.
When you mention the frame getting hot, are you talking about the subframe where the Regulator is mounted? If it is too hot to touch, it sounds like the regulator is sinking too much current and getting too hot. I suspect the Regulator is failing when hot.
Tomorrow I’ll attach my old regulator and see if it’s any different. However, it’s the entire bike frame. It’s too hot to touch.
Well. The stator is putting out the right numbers. Installed it today and put the new Ricks regulator on. Took it for a ride. Tested it after the ride again to make sure it was still putting out good numbers.
Stator is putting out good numbers. On initial startup, revving to 5k gave me 14.2V.
Went to for the ride and tested it when I got back home. 11.2 at Idle 12.2V at 5K rpm. So, as before, it’s not charging when it’s warm.
again, I tested the regulator using the method ricks says to use and it showed no bad diodes.
Is it normal for the frame to get so hot it feels like it’s going to burn you? Is it a bad ground, even though I took them off and checked the contacts?
Your symptoms still act like a bad stator leg while hot. Plz do the stator test while hot and gimme data. I don't care what Rick's says.. ...No on the bike numbers... no help.
You can't blame the R/R until you confirm the stator is good or bad.
And yes, all VFR frames get hot from normal running.
Your symptoms still act like a bad stator leg while hot. Plz do the stator test while hot and gimme data. I don't care what Rick's says.. ...No on the bike numbers... no help.
You can't blame the R/R until you confirm the stator is good or bad.
And yes, all VFR frames get hot from normal running.
Okay, thank you.
I tested the stator while hot and it would appear it's actually good. All stator legs go up past 60 AC when revved around 5k and up. I'm starting to wonder if the regulator went bad from the old stator that was bad. I conducted a diode test that they say to try online, but who the hell knows. the DC voltage I got from testing 11.2-12.2 was tested on the wires directly from the regulator. It heats up incredibly quick and is too hot to touch or I'll get burned. Rick's told me it's not good for the regulator to sit while idle, but lets be realistic, if you get stuck in a traffic jam your bike is going to be idling and not getting good air flow.
I think I may just fork out the $160 and get the super mosfet kit from roadstercycle.com. Unfortunately I won't be able to do it until after my vacation which gets done near the end of July. I'm running out of days because I leave and will be across the country starting the 10th. Basically anything I order to attempt to fix it at this point is not even likely to arrive in time.
There's just no way your R/R should be getting that hot. Assuming your stator is now OK and you've tried another R/R then the only thing that can cause excessive heat is the load on the system, excessive current draw. Is your wiring all standard? Any added accessories?
There's just no way your R/R should be getting that hot. Assuming your stator is now OK and you've tried another R/R then the only thing that can cause excessive heat is the load on the system, excessive current draw. Is your wiring all standard? Any added accessories?
Yes, wiring is standard and there are no added accessories. I do have a voltmeter I ordered but don't want to put it in until I get everything situated.
I'm just going to order the FH020AA Super Mofset kit from roadstercycle.com. I was considering getting the FH847, which I still may, however when I called them on the phone they said unless I plan on doing track days with the bike or having the headlights unplugged then I probably don't need that one and to go with the $150 kit. Which comes with the Mofset regulator and all the upgraded wiring that bypasses all that stock garbage.
I just won't be able to do it until late July.
End of thread · 34 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 26 Feb 2020