regulator rectifier cooling mods, fan or air hose

Hi all so have had my first vfr 2001 5gen for two weeks, and been reading all the r/r issues

So looking to find out how to add a cooling fan and also if any one else has added hose running from the front of the bike to the r/r to help cool it? Hose idea I read on a form but the links are now gone. 

spoken to my mate which was a honda michanic and now a ducati one. So his answer was how long dose a light bulb last, or if its not broke don't fix it which I understand his fought process.  Only thing is I don't want stranded in middle of no where. 

I do have a mosfet rectifier which I got of the newer cbr600rr and have the triumph part no t 2500676 subharnes and the 30amp fuse,  so I could do the hole change of the r/r but I have read many mave had same issues with that set up as well. 

So am looking for ways to cool the r/r before I go doing the r/r change 

Hi James,

Since you fitted a MOSFET, I'd fit a small (LED or LCD) voltmeter in/near the dash so you can keep an eye on things. Once a year inspect your wiring (start or end of riding season) and be done with it.

MOSFETs donot run as hot as the OEM ones.

26 minutes ago, Dutchy

Hi James,

Since you fitted a MOSFET, I'd fit a small (LED or LCD) voltmeter in/near the dash so you can keep an eye on things. Once a year inspect your wiring (start or end of riding season) and be done with it.

MOSFETs donot run as hot as the OEM ones.

I have the mosfet but don't plan to fit unless the newer 2001 regulator Go's 

Just now, Jamesvfr851

I have the mosfet but don't plan to fit unless the newer 2001 regulator Go's 

Looking for was that have been done and worked to cool the original one 

39 minutes ago, Jamesvfr851

Hi all so have had my first vfr 2001 5gen for two weeks, and been reading all the r/r issues

So looking to find out how to add a cooling fan and also if any one else has added hose running from the front of the bike to the r/r to help cool it? Hose idea I read on a form but the links are now gone. 

spoken to my mate which was a honda michanic and now a ducati one. So his answer was how long dose a light bulb last, or if its not broke don't fix it which I understand his fought process.  Only thing is I don't want stranded in middle of no where. 

I do have a mosfet rectifier which I got of the newer cbr600rr and have the triumph part no t 2500676 subharnes and the 30amp fuse,  so I could do the hole change of the r/r but I have read many mave had same issues with that set up as well. 

So am looking for ways to cool the r/r before I go doing the r/r change 

About cooling air... the chances are it does not help anything. The problem is not so much getting air in - it is getting used air out. So reducing inlet and channeling the air could make better cooling. You don't get good speed in the cooling air if it has nowhere to go - just like traffic at the light at the end of a high way. This is something NACA (forerunner of NASA) studied way back in time (btw. some related work by NACA is found on the 4th gen - the inlet ducts on the sides of the fairing)

Why is your rr creating so much heat that you need to run a fan on it?  Are you running hi amp drawing accessories?  

If not, I would suspect some bad connections resulting in weird power draw.

I have had charging issues on my '99, but they were all solved by getting solid stator to rr to battery connections.

So you already have a MOSFET R/R, but you're waiting to fit it until the original goes tits up? I'm with Dutchy: just fit the MOSFET with a voltmeter and be done with it. It's obviously on your mind, would you rather have this problem looming over your shoulder, or would you rather take care of it?

I can understand your mate's position from a mechanic's point of view, but the mechanic isn't the one who gets stranded when it fails. 

If you plan on installing a voltmeter, here is an example of the one installed a few months ago.  The toggle switch goes from voltage reading when ignition switch is on, and the other for reading when switch off.

2 hours ago, Fritzer

Why is your rr creating so much heat that you need to run a fan on it?  Are you running hi amp drawing accessories?  

If not, I would suspect some bad connections resulting in weird power draw.

I have had charging issues on my '99, but they were all solved by getting solid stator to rr to battery connections.

Well I think it's running good, not had any issues nor did the last owner, am just thinking how I can keep it working as good as it should. 

1 hour ago, Fritzer

If you plan on installing a voltmeter, here is an example of the one installed a few months ago.  The toggle switch goes from voltage reading when ignition switch is on, and the other for reading when switch off.

Did that bracket come with it

Have ordered up one of these, 

I have this one

http://www.signaldynamics.com/heads-up-voltage-monitor/

This one for me: https://www.roadstercycle.com/Motorcycle voltage monitor.htm

Mounted in the upper right corner of the meter cover. Wired to the main feed from the ignition switch.

I did mount a small 40mm axial fan on the R/R just for those occasions when I'm idling in hot weather.

throw a computer fan on the r/r fins and it WILL help keep it cool..  installed one 10 years ago on stock r/r .. still going strong..and yes, i am a honda tech.

6 hours ago, gll429

throw a computer fan on the r/r fins and it WILL help keep it cool..  installed one 10 years ago on stock r/r .. still going strong..and yes, i am a honda tech.

This is what I have ordered up, 2x USB cool fans for when at idle. 

But also going to rig up the outher r/r for later date. 

An alternative to installing a voltmeter on the bike is installing a bluetooth voltmeter that sends the info to an app on your phone. I just installed one on my bike and it seems to work well. Connects direct to the battery, lets you see charging voltage as you ride along. Assumes you have a phone mount but many people do. Might draw some current because it's always attached but I doubt it will draw much - and anyway it'll let me know if the charge drops by sending me a message! Product is Powertech Bluetooth 12V Battery Monitor for Smartphones (QP 2265) and I got it from Jaycar electronics here in Sydney, Australia. Good luck...

So far have fitted my voltmeter and added a on/off switch 

So far it's about 12 to 12.5 and 14to 14.4 when running 

So - I have a voltmeter coming in the post soon:

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Digital-DC-8-16V-Display-Volt-Meter-Voltmeter-Voltage-Gauge-Blue-LED-12V-MA1005/362608645312?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item546d28d4c0:g:oj4AAOSwHF5ckF-B&enc=AQAEAAACYIQvEcHUrT7nmUC3yY5qbPyaBN1nJEDYW8MyypsJPgXKs4ijYSTGv0%2BdOMHOyVlosLenCs4%2ByCHhdyHXueXM0nqLg3xCEtqvyNQJ9yEZzvh2PZaeAwUcvVsaqbhMk5COeBTIDPpQ%2BfMqq6wI0pt1rSJghiMPEG6kon8FbOS55Fu4TSac0abbRd3U5zFEOSpimXZgKjfumtcymRREHhevUeFuhWKq9iMiUB01VCpTVE6AxCKzvka1ABh1FPp2h%2Brge349NQLlMJRhUhrB%2FHsn1U3UuO5k0S2y44nW%2FC7VQ4jer5pocnxuvIi6VV%2BRtuKz7e69Z35iblheeXevz809wNoiLAUZKzM5mlD5c3d8Tm0k7A%2BnUU8l3%2F89S4aKCubVatPyLX6QywnoC0PGDMQguFbr%2FW%2FEwL4lkrahigTjfU5iKp3lM32lozM4InvZH%2FYA57anfgfWxeq1UIpw1ywKllFPMaXJ0EMZ%2FgUXr3HMnWHjtw%2BCZ6aw%2BOVmBy%2BZtypXbgFbeok1lcPB9tHRHQj%2FL4WgAUWAmkNI%2FZvmbKQmmOIkLlNhoGNUjwkjpPCnBMhgGYiuZR9mzwVrCUhiGb7taB0T6CyVFtJEHViKbEln0fZu3UxxrBeyRrz7Z3P4IUHWM2ASxNU4%2F63ayUqO8ID9XDt%2F1dCdIXUBw6hJ0fsBRmE8SdC83%2Bj2K55DoLuhGl7JlE%2B%2F%2FFyesFb7v7eSqFLCzgGwv4Vd043lcfL5h2RECtHxzMXsKCQ6ewtZ9xsxlqGkmLzFY0w09G7dAOXmteZIyIAZ%2FBa8hTnclvaaN5sEPnt4&checksum=362608645312a35ae58f709949f1962550da9d996b7d

[image: s-l1600.jpg]

Trying to work out where to wire it in. I figure the black cable wants to go back to battery negative terminal and the red to some kind of switched power so its only reading when ignition is on.  I had a poke around today with a multimeter and found a big cable junction at the left side of the dash with one of the wires a black a white one that carried 12.6V with ignition and 0V without. 

Can anyone comment on whether theres any reason why I shouldn't just splice the red cable of my meter into this cable and run the black back to the battery? Is there a better place to wire these in (given I'm hopeless and struggle to identify *anything* under the covers of my bike!)

Any thoughts/advice would be welcome!

4 hours ago, DadAgain

So - I have a voltmeter coming in the post soon:

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Digital-DC-8-16V-Display-Volt-Meter-Voltmeter-Voltage-Gauge-Blue-LED-12V-MA1005/362608645312?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item546d28d4c0:g:oj4AAOSwHF5ckF-B&enc=AQAEAAACYIQvEcHUrT7nmUC3yY5qbPyaBN1nJEDYW8MyypsJPgXKs4ijYSTGv0%2BdOMHOyVlosLenCs4%2ByCHhdyHXueXM0nqLg3xCEtqvyNQJ9yEZzvh2PZaeAwUcvVsaqbhMk5COeBTIDPpQ%2BfMqq6wI0pt1rSJghiMPEG6kon8FbOS55Fu4TSac0abbRd3U5zFEOSpimXZgKjfumtcymRREHhevUeFuhWKq9iMiUB01VCpTVE6AxCKzvka1ABh1FPp2h%2Brge349NQLlMJRhUhrB%2FHsn1U3UuO5k0S2y44nW%2FC7VQ4jer5pocnxuvIi6VV%2BRtuKz7e69Z35iblheeXevz809wNoiLAUZKzM5mlD5c3d8Tm0k7A%2BnUU8l3%2F89S4aKCubVatPyLX6QywnoC0PGDMQguFbr%2FW%2FEwL4lkrahigTjfU5iKp3lM32lozM4InvZH%2FYA57anfgfWxeq1UIpw1ywKllFPMaXJ0EMZ%2FgUXr3HMnWHjtw%2BCZ6aw%2BOVmBy%2BZtypXbgFbeok1lcPB9tHRHQj%2FL4WgAUWAmkNI%2FZvmbKQmmOIkLlNhoGNUjwkjpPCnBMhgGYiuZR9mzwVrCUhiGb7taB0T6CyVFtJEHViKbEln0fZu3UxxrBeyRrz7Z3P4IUHWM2ASxNU4%2F63ayUqO8ID9XDt%2F1dCdIXUBw6hJ0fsBRmE8SdC83%2Bj2K55DoLuhGl7JlE%2B%2F%2FFyesFb7v7eSqFLCzgGwv4Vd043lcfL5h2RECtHxzMXsKCQ6ewtZ9xsxlqGkmLzFY0w09G7dAOXmteZIyIAZ%2FBa8hTnclvaaN5sEPnt4&checksum=362608645312a35ae58f709949f1962550da9d996b7d

Trying to work out where to wire it in. I figure the black cable wants to go back to battery negative terminal and the red to some kind of switched power so its only reading when ignition is on.  I had a poke around today with a multimeter and found a big cable junction at the left side of the dash with one of the wires a black a white one that carried 12.6V with ignition and 0V without. 

Can anyone comment on whether theres any reason why I shouldn't just splice the red cable of my meter into this cable and run the black back to the battery? Is there a better place to wire these in (given I'm hopeless and struggle to identify *anything* under the covers of my bike!)

Any thoughts/advice would be welcome!

I have no idea what that wire powers, but if it's the ECU then I would not use it.  The ECU wants a stable power source and introducing even as minor a draw as a voltmeter might not be optimal.   I take my reading right off the battery through a relay, using the tail light wire as my tapped source to switch the relay.  If the tail light goes out I'm not too worried - I'll fix it sooner or later - but the critical functions controlling the engine I prefer to leave be.  It is possible to have voltage drops through various circuits on the bike that give misleading readings - taking it right off the battery is the most indicative of what's happening where it matters.  Even 6th gens have enough room under the seat for a relay and a quick internet search can help with wiring it up.  It's a good idea to include a fuse between the battery and the relay in the event of a short - the closer to the battery the better.  The draw is very low - I use a 3A fuse on mine and it's no problem. 

6 hours ago, DadAgain

Trying to work out where to wire it in. I figure the black cable wants to go back to battery negative terminal and the red to some kind of switched power so its only reading when ignition is on.  I had a poke around today with a multimeter and found a big cable junction at the left side of the dash with one of the wires a black a white one that carried 12.6V with ignition and 0V without. 

Can anyone comment on whether theres any reason why I shouldn't just splice the red cable of my meter into this cable and run the black back to the battery? Is there a better place to wire these in (given I'm hopeless and struggle to identify *anything* under the covers of my bike!)

Agree with Cogswell. Having your voltmeter connected as close as possible to the battery (Both Pos and Neg) via a relay is the best as you are minimising cable voltage drop.

However, if you don't want to go this way then here are couple of options, seeing you no doubt will be mounting the Voltmeter up near the Instrument Panel somewhere. DO YOU HAVE A CIRCUIT DIAGRAM? The Service Manual can be downloaded from this site.

1. If you can locate the Red/Black wire from your Ignition Switch, this goes directly to your Fuse Box, this is the main switched +12v from the switch. If you can tap into that wire either near the Ignition Switch or the Fuse Box, that would be a good 12v feed for your Voltmeter. Then find a good earth point or the battery Negative terminal for the Negative wire.

2. Locate your Bank Angle sensor at the front of your bike it will have 3 wires to it and a Green 3 pin plug. You could tap into the White/Black wire for your meter Positive and the Green wire for your Negative.

Suggestion - When you get your Voltmeter momentarily connect it Directly to your battery, take note of its voltage. Now start your engine, take note of the charging voltage. Then if you use option 1 or 2 you will have a good idea of what (if any) voltage drop you're seeing by not having it directly connected to the battery or via a relay.

NOTE - The Black/White wire you measured with 12.6v on it is the main power to your ECM and all the Fuel Injection stuff.!

Hope this helps! :wacko:

Thanks guys - that helps a lot. I have no idea how to wire up a relay at all... Fortunately I have time on my side: delivery of meter isnt expected for a couple of weeks (new world order postal services are VERY slow), so I can have a look at the bike and try to research relays and see if I can make sense of it all and work out how they work!

I installed a trick little 3 in 1 gauge that alternates between Temp Time and Volts...

3 hours ago, DadAgain

Thanks guys - that helps a lot. I have no idea how to wire up a relay at all... Fortunately I have time on my side: delivery of meter isnt expected for a couple of weeks (new world order postal services are VERY slow), so I can have a look at the bike and try to research relays and see if I can make sense of it all and work out how they work!

A relay is simply a magnetically actuated switch, usually with 4 poles (or terminals). You power the switching mechanism from a power source that is switched by the ignition key and so always on when the ignition is on (it is common to use something like a taillight or instrument light as a source), through the relay, then on to ground. When you switch on the ignition, this will close the relay switch. Feed power from your battery positive through a fuse to one switched terminal, the other switched terminal then supplies power to the voltmeter or whatever you wanted to power, then the other side of the voltmeter can connect to ground.

I visualize a relay as a "plus sign"  (+).  The switched (controlled by the ignition) power comes in say from the left side and continues across and out the right side to ground.  That's what changes the switch from off to on.  That's all it's doing - rather than you using your finger to manually throw it.  The load from the battery let's then say comes from the top, across the now closed switch on out the bottom to your load (in this case your volt meter).  The voltmeter is then grounded, completing the circuit.  So you have two sources coming in, one for the switch and one for the load, then the other two ultimately go to ground - the switch portion directly, and the other to ground through the load (voltmeter).    The tricky part is that the relay terminals have weird designations and some have 5 terminals rather than 4 - but in essence the concept is always the same.  I just added a relay and I still go back to look up each of the terminals and what the labeling means.   Some people wire their voltmeters with a manual switch so there isn't a constant (thought tiny) draw while the bike is off.  The manual switch is a version of a relay, it just uses human power to throw the switch instead of electrical power.

1 hour ago, Cogswell

 Some people wire their voltmeters with a manual switch so there isn't a constant (thought tiny) draw while the bike is off.  The manual switch is a version of a relay, it just uses human power to throw the switch instead of electrical power.

Ok, you roped me into it... . I'm a manual switch guy for voltmeters.... 

Another keep it simple stupid method is to wire direct to battery... positive side with 1 amp or less fuse holder... like

https://www.amazon.com/DIGITEN-5x20mm-Holder-Inline-screw/dp/B00VLBAF84/ref=sr_1_14?crid=JK6TJXIXY494&dchild=1&keywords=inline+fuse+holder+16+gauge&qid=1588213962&sprefix=in+line+fuse+%2Caps%2C195&sr=8-14

Then stick a switch in the circuit,  -- there must be 100 choices... example....   (I mounted one under the seat)

Example...... 

https://www.amazon.com/Toggle-Switch-Wires-Metal-Automotive/dp/B078825ZQH/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=automotive+mini+toggle+switch&qid=1588214338&sr=8-1

I did this one quite a while ago, I would probably do something different now..... 

[image: 20190907_235204-Th.jpg]

Ground you can just add an eyelet go direct to battery or ground it to frame... 

I find Autozone has a good electrical wire 'em up parts section for ideas.... 

So the idea is...... flip the switch on --- before you power the bike key on.... then you know right away if your battery is good or... hosed..... before you start the bike.

A relay is a good way to go too.. either way is personal taste... 

For grins, my voltmeter mounted.... 

[image: assembled-Th.jpg]

Another good motorcycle targeted electrical source.... 

http://www.cycleterminal.com/index.html

Cheerz  :beer:

Fans won't stop a reg/rec going duff.  They don't burn out because they get hot, do they?  No, they get hot because they've burned out! 

At least you've had fun wiring up a whole bunch of electrical stuff!

Ciao,

JZH

14 hours ago, JZH

Fans won't stop a reg/rec going duff.  They don't burn out because they get hot, do they?  No, they get hot because they've burned out! 

 Wait. Is that true? That can't be exactly right. I'd been thinking they got hot because they were bleeding off energy from the stator that wasn't being used to power the electrics on the bike. That's why they have cooling fins. But that was just my hunch. My R/R seems to work okay, and it gets pretty hot even with the fins.  Of course, they may get even hotter when they're burned out.

There's "hot" and then there's burned out.  When they fail they get so hot the potting melts.  (The OEM ones on these bikes had no cooling fins; they were supposed to use the bike's subframe as a means of cooling, hence the heat sink paste you're supposed to use when installing them.)

Ciao,

JZH

I would not mess around with the OEM style regulator, just replace with something more modern.  I got a used one off an FZ-09 and a harness off ebay for under $50 delivered.

Heat usually shortens the life of electronic components, yes some components fail as a dead short and make a lot of heat but running them hot might kill them early.  But for the good of your battery and to avoid a tow or a long push might as well replace the OEM regulator now and avoid that tediousness.

FYI - My replacement stator still hasnt arrived - but the bits and pieces for the voltmeter mod showed up so I had:

1m of blue wire

1m of black wire

1m of red wire

1 fused relay

1 set of crimpers with assorted ends

1 bag of wire-tap connectors

1 voltmeter!

I got to work -

1) - tested the brown wire I could find at the tail light to check that between it and battery negative was 0V with key off and ~12V with ignition on

2) - Tested voltage across battery terminals and saw it was >12V (i.e. tail light voltage would not be a 'true' reading)

3) - Stuck volmeter on dash and fed cable downunder side of tank

4) - Used connectors to add more length to red and black cable from voltmeter

5) - Crimped the blue wire with a spade at one end and spliced the other with a tap connector to the brown wire at the tail light

6) - Made up a short length of red wire with a ring connector at one end and a spade on the other

7) - Made a short black wire with ring connector at one end and spliced in with the black from the voltmeter extension to a spade at the other end

😎 - Plugged the blue cable space to '86' on the relay

9)  - Plugged the red cable spade from voltmeter to '87' on relay

10) - Plugged the spade with the two black cables to '85' on relay

11) - Plugged the red spade cable to '30' on relay

12) - Connected the red and black ring connectors to appropriate battery terminals

13) - Stuffed the relay and any excess wire into the cavity to the right side of the frame (opposite the battery)

14) - Observe meter nice and dark with key off

15) - Observe meter firing up with ignition and reading exactly the same as multimeter over battery terminals!

Thats a win!!!!! (shame photobucket watermark obscures it a bit - but you get the idea)

[image: spacer.png]

Hello, fellow 5th Geners. I would like to ask a question with a little back story added to it. I have a '98 vfr with 37K miles on the odometer. For six months now (it is now 16 May 2020) on occasion I would use my key to switch from 'steering lock' to 'off' to 'ignition on' and my vfr. Then I press the start button and all of the power drops off. No lights, no numbers on the right lcd screen. No power to anything. Even turning the key off and on has no effect. The warning lights (red and green) turn off also. The engine kill switch is always on. I rarely use it to turn the engine off, but sometimes I do use it. Sometimes this happens, Sometimes not. Mostly not. I don't know if this is an R/R issue. I don't want to get stuck on the side of the road waiting for somebody or my wife to help me get the bike back home. There are several important things to note here:

1. I rarely use the 'engine kill' switch on the right handle bar to stop the engine.

2. I normally just turn off the engine with the key.

3. I live in the Pacific Northwest.

4. there is a computer fan sitting on top of the R/R, I did not install it. The previous owner did and it comes on with the key.

5. there are grip heaters installed, but only the clutch grip heater works now. throttle grip heater stopped working a year ago.

6. there is a battery monitor installed too. I'll add photos to this thread. It was also not installed by me.

I bought the bike in 2015 and rode the bike with the battery that was in it when I bought the bike and only changed the battery this January (2020). Never had to replace the R/R either.

Maybe I need to clean the contacts of the kill switch.

Any ideas would be helpful. Thanks.

2 hours ago, pdx650

Hello, fellow 5th Geners. I would like to ask a question with a little back story added to it. I have a '98 vfr with 37K miles on the odometer. For six months now (it is now 16 May 2020) on occasion I would use my key to switch from 'steering lock' to 'off' to 'ignition on' and my vfr. Then I press the start button and all of the power drops off. No lights, no numbers on the right lcd screen. No power to anything. Even turning the key off and on has no effect. The warning lights (red and green) turn off also. The engine kill switch is always on. I rarely use it to turn the engine off, but sometimes I do use it. Sometimes this happens, Sometimes not. Mostly not. I don't know if this is an R/R issue. I don't want to get stuck on the side of the road waiting for somebody or my wife to help me get the bike back home. There are several important things to note here:

1. I rarely use the 'engine kill' switch on the right handle bar to stop the engine.

2. I normally just turn off the engine with the key.

3. I live in the Pacific Northwest.

4. there is a computer fan sitting on top of the R/R, I did not install it. The previous owner did and it comes on with the key.

5. there are grip heaters installed, but only the clutch grip heater works now. throttle grip heater stopped working a year ago.

6. there is a battery monitor installed too. I'll add photos to this thread. It was also not installed by me.

I bought the bike in 2015 and rode the bike with the battery that was in it when I bought the bike and only changed the battery this January (2020). Never had to replace the R/R either.

Maybe I need to clean the contacts of the kill switch.

Any ideas would be helpful. Thanks.

Think you can forget the Kill Switch as it has no effect on Instrument Displays or headlights.

Check the state of your two Main 30amp Fuses A and B.

Have a very close look for stressed/overheated/burnt wiring associated with the Fuses. Remove a check the fuses for heat stress and make sure their connections are clean and good.

Lets know how you go.

This problem is usually loose battery cables or similar.

Grum and joelF, thank you for your time and advice. I will let you know what happens when I can get to it. It sounds like I may need to get more fuses soon and check the wiring too. I do not have a great mind for electricity. The three part  aviation electricity classes I took taught me something and some left my mind. I was about to dig into the throttle grip control cluster and clean it up, but maybe I don’t need to now.

27 minutes ago, pdx650

Grum and joelF, thank you for your time and advice. I will let you know what happens when I can get to it. It sounds like I may need to get more fuses soon and check the wiring too. I do not have a great mind for electricity. The three part  aviation electricity classes I took taught me something and some left my mind. I was about to dig into the throttle grip control cluster and clean it up, but maybe I don’t need to now.

JoelF makes a very good point and something I overlooked, that is to make sure your battery connections are clean and tight, that's the easiest thing to check first. Then move on to the Fuses and wiring I mentioned. You can download the Service Manual from this site if you don't already have one.

Keep us posted.

Grum, thanks again. I certainly would like to download a service manual. I do have a paper clymer manual, but sometimes digital forms are nice to have also. I’ll check on the cables and wires too.

Why did you replace the battery in January?  Given that this is a VFR of a certain era, it probably has charging issues, which can damage a battery. 

Unfortunately, replacing the battery won't solve the problem if there is a problem.  I once destroyed a week-old battery by taking it on a high speed trip in a bike with a bad reg/rec...

Ciao,

JZH

JZH, the battery was already an old one and the electrical problems had not yet begun when I replaced it. Thanks for letting me know about the possibility that the battery can be damaged by replacing it with these problems it is having. The weather in the part of Oregon I live in has not been good enough to ride a lot yet. I will read up on this problem, check the wiring, and , if need be, replace fuses....or harnesses.