Hey all,
After nearly eight years of ownership, I may be moving all of the goodies on my 1998 to a 2000 model and have a few questions. I believe that everything will be a direct swap, but hope that you guys can guide me if I'm wrong. Thank you!
Items:
Sprockets/chain
Fork internals
Shock
GIVI rack
Staintune slip on (2000 has O2 sensors and cat, right?)
Sargent seats
Windscreen
Air fitler
Might I be missing anything?
Once I wrap up the swaps, the 1998 will be for sale here in Charlotte, NC in nearly all stock form w/~25k miles and excellent.
Anything else I should know about the swap to 2000, including the wax (?) fuel enrichment unit?
Thanks, all!
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2000 picks up the wax unit/enrichment circuit, a cat and 02 sensors in the exhaust, a slightly less desirable header (marginally smaller diameter from what I've read)....
A '98 at 25k mi is just getting past break-in! Surely you must have a good reason, but based on the bikes alone, I can't see it. Either way, I think all the parts you've listed should swap right over (maybe double check the part #'s for the forks & associated small parts to ensure compatibility. Good luck
Everything listed interchanges.
I would rather have an excellent 98-99 with 30k than a 00-01 with 3K.
Thanks, guys.
Why would you rather the 98, Captain 80s? (great name...)
Well my name is probably a clue. Just more bullshit on the same bike and nothing "improves" it.
Give me Fuel Injection, that's fine. But I'll stick with just a analog high idle lever thank you. Keep your stupid "wax unit", I've been on the end of a "choke" lever my whole adult life. I think I can handle it.
Sure the exhaust is just mild steel. That's fine, I don't ride in salt water, and I'll get it coated. But you can keep your catalytic converter (and associated hardware, software), even if it is made out of stainless.
Besides the stupid Linked Brakes (yes, yes... I know the system works great, I've ridden plenty), the 98-99 is as close to a pure "modern" (re: FI) gear driven cam VFR you can get. Linked brakes, with secondary masters, proportioning valves and 2 miles of hose, belong on a fucking Gold Wing,
Are there big problems with the exhaust or wax unit? I found rumblings about both, but nothing concrete (worth worrying about). Thank you!
Also discovering the VFRness is different...and the R/R?
10 minutes ago, bmart
Are there big problems with the exhaust or wax unit? I found rumblings about both, but nothing concrete (worth worrying about). Thank you!
Don't get me wrong. the 00-01 works great and is a lovely bike. But given a choice, even with more miles (which is nearly irrelevant on a VFR), I'd take the 98-99 every damn time. Less shit to go wrong and it just adds weight and complexity. And yours looks excellent. I see ZERO reason to "upgrade".
Why don't you tell us why you want to make the move? Maybe there's an emotional aspect, or a perceived advantage, I'm not seeing.
You'll laugh...red. I absolutely hate red and have owned a 1999 and 1998 for a total of nearly 12 years and ~30k miles. I've even thought of just swapping the bodywork and selling the low mile 2000 as red!
2 minutes ago, bmart
You'll laugh...red. I absolutely hate red and have owned a 1999 and 1998 for a total of nearly 12 years and ~30k miles. I've even thought of just swapping the bodywork and selling the low mile 2000 as red!
Ok.... there ya go. Fuck, I'd swap the body work ALL DAY LONG. And any other doo-dad that is nicer.
Cheapest OEM paint job EVER.
22 minutes ago, bmart
You'll laugh...red. I absolutely hate red and have owned a 1999 and 1998 for a total of nearly 12 years and ~30k miles. I've even thought of just swapping the bodywork and selling the low mile 2000 as red!
If you went with Chinese bodywork in yellow and got a tank sprayed to match, you could have the best of both - a yellow '98. And, you would have zero trouble selling your fairings - they'd be gone in 60 seconds. My 6G wax unit has failed - I'd swap over a 98/99 lever housing and cable if it were more practical (it would take a lot of fiddling / fabbing to get it done), so I'm not fan of that. There are varying opinions on the brakes - personally I like 'em, probably saved my ass a time or two, but I do understand personal opinions about them may differ from mine. Either way, if you want OEM and plug and play yellow bike, then buying a 2000 is probably the easiest way to go.
Chinese bodywork is not part of the best of any world. He has a chance to buy the color he wants, swap over OEM bodywork onto the better (imo) year, and sell the now red one.
And be WAY ahead money wise. Might even make money.
Yeah, not saying Chinese plastic is the best (obviously not), was thinking more along the lines of having the desired color and the OEM plastic on hand to go back to if it ever gets rashed or just tired. I'm not so sure about money ahead. Buyers usually value stock and when they see a Y2K with red bodywork they'll wonder what's up with it (at least I would). Why did someone do that, are they trying to hide something, what's the history of the bike, etc. Like finding out what a house is worth, the best way to find out is to move forward with it. :smile:
Swapping fairings on a VFR is not too difficult and much easier than swapping motorcycle parts. Separating the upper cowl from the inner half cowl is probably the hardest part as you have to be mindful of the side clips on the upper cowl that insert into the inner half cowl. They are easy to break. You can see the clips once you remove the side fairings. A fairing swap also allows you to pick the best panels for your bike that are all now NLA. I suggest you have a set of fairing clips fairing clips and well nuts well nuts. It's easy to break 20+ year old fairing clips and some 20+ year old well nuts may need replacement.
My '99 is red and piece by piece I'm sourcing yellow OEM fairings. Not easy to find.
Also, having a VFRness may still lead to R/R failure. A Shindengen SH847 will solve the problem for the bike's life.
Have fun with the new yellow bike!
10 hours ago, Cogswell
Yeah, not saying Chinese plastic is the best (obviously not), was thinking more along the lines of having the desired color and the OEM plastic on hand to go back to if it ever gets rashed or just tired. I'm not so sure about money ahead. Buyers usually value stock and when they see a Y2K with red bodywork they'll wonder what's up with it (at least I would). Why did someone do that, are they trying to hide something, what's the history of the bike, etc. Like finding out what a house is worth, the best way to find out is to move forward with it. :smile:
They can wonder what's up and it can be explained. My well cared for 1998 is red, I have a good amount upgrades and don't want to start over. Im tired of red. Here's a sweet low mile 2000 that is now red. Here's all the pics when I had the bodywork off. You like red? Cool, let's talk. Not hard.
I thought VFR stood for Very F$&ing Red!
I'd keep the '98...... I'm not seeing why you'd want a '00-01 over that either.... why bother at all? I didn't see if the 2000 was yellow..... if that's the reason, move all the plastic and tank, keep the '98, sell the 2000.
9 hours ago, Tirso
Also, having a VFRness may still lead to R/R failure. A Shindengen SH847 will solve the problem for the bike's life.
Have fun with the new yellow bike!
Thanks for this. Are you saying R/R only, or with the VFRness for the 2000?
I think he means R/R and the appropriate harness with the right connectors for it...... forget the VFRness altogether, unneeded then.
Got it. Thanks!
Also found this which mentions a frame change, but it looks non-U.S. HESS was non U.S., I believe, but also see modified clutch. Thoughts? (Sorry...I like to track things!.)
"2000: Honda VFR800i gets minor update; slight frame changes, modified clutch, refined fuel injection, more durable electrics, improved mirrors, HISS security system."
It isn't all bad...3k miles.
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At this point, do what you want. But I think the opinions you came for have been pretty well expressed.
And I apprecizte them. I also got some opinions from a bunch of Internet friends (VFR owners) on another list. lol Looks like it is staying and I'm on the hunt for a few aftermarket goodies which seem to be getting harder to find.
Thanks all!
Should I marry her?
No.
Not a chance.
Are you fucking crazy?
We're engaged!!!
Just bustin' your balls. Enjoy the journey again, looks pretty fucking nice.
Also confirms you have terrible taste in bikes.
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bmart, 9/15/2021 at 12:50 PM
Also discovering the VFRness is different...and the R/R?
You want the Roadstercycle SH847 Kit. It includes a Shindengen SH847 Series R/R, which is the latest in R/R technology. Also, it includes a stand-alone wire harness that gets the charging circuit out of the bike’s main harness and it adds a 30A breaker before the battery, two things that add a level of protection. Lastly, this setup uses the battery as a power bank, which allows the R/R to open/close, or cycle, the charging circuit, which allows the stator and R/R to run cooler.
Forget about the VFRness. It’s a waste of time and money.
I was working in a Honda dealership, in 2000. We had gotten in a new VFR that I drooled over, everyday. Unfortunately, there was no way I could afford one. The memory of that bike has always stuck in my mind, so I get the affinity for yellow bodywork. As much as I don’t like the wax idle unit or catalytic converter, I’d still go for the 2000. Just keep in mind, despite its low mileage, it’s still a 21yr-old bike and will need all the same maintenance items as a higher mileage bike of the same year.
Thanks. $240 though. I'll also look up other options.
The cheaper, proven solution is the MOSFET Yamaha R1 one--you can pick them up on eBay, or even new. Never heard of any failing (but I'm sure at least a few have!)
Ciao,
JZH
Care to provide years or p/ns that work? Direct plug in or rewire? I'll be awake soon & will search!
If you’re shopping used R/R’s, you want a Shindengen SH847 off a 2014+ V-Strom 1000 (Suzuki part #32800-31J00). This will get you latest in Series R/R technology.
Neither aforementioned R/R’s are plug and play. You’ll need to source the plugs and create a harness. I’d strongly suggest replicating the Roadstercycle harness and getting the charging circuit out of the main harness, as well as adding some form of circuitry protection. Using an SH847 and creating a harness like shown, utilizes the battery as a power bank for the bike to run on. This allows the SH847 to open/close the charging circuit as needed (the SH847 does not shunt), which is what allows the stator and R/R to run so much cooler.
Another series R/R is the SH775 (Polaris #4012941), and it would work well too. I would get the RoadsterCycle harness, as it is robust and good quality wire, circuit breaker and connectors..... you can't really build that much cheaper or as good yourself.
Installing the Roadster harness totally eliminates stock wiring from the equation.
Yet another SH series regulator is from a Versys 1000 2015-up.
The Yamaha (FJR, FJ-09, etc.) used a mofset FH-020-AA.... they didn't have history of failing.
What you may find is that used R/R's are half or more of what you can buy a new one at Roadster for........
7 hours ago, raYzerman
Yet another SH series regulator is from a Versys 1000 2015-up.
The Yamaha (FJR, FJ-09, etc.) used a mofset FH-020-AA.... they didn't have history of failing.
I have run the FH-020-AA for 3 seasons....no issues, it's fine...
----- So hey gang, should I do a 5th gen SH847 mount?
11 hours ago, bmart
For folks who have bought from Jack, did you ge the universal 2 way or 4 way mounting bracket for the 5th gen? Thanks!
Bought and installed an 847 super kit from Jack, no bracket used. Mounted the 847 on the subframe, some drilling required.
SFDownhill wrote a great how-to on the other site
https://vfrworld.com/threads/photos-of-no-drama-r-r-from-roadstercycle-com.54584/
good luck
Speaking of Sfdownhill, I think I'll have a seat on the way from him soon. And that's good news as this stock one is pretty terrible.
I put the yellow '00 on the road on Friday and went for a spin today against doctor's orders. I just can't wait until March or April!
The two teeth larger rear sprocket made a big difference, but I forgot to raise the rear using the eccentric when I installed it.
The unusual fork spring feeling was gone after I reinstalled the caps and got a few miles on it. Front sag is a little snug at 31mm, as is the back at 25mm, but I'm going to ride it a bit to see if everything loosens a bit. The adjustments were made with the bike cold and me out of my gear.
A few quick shots of Plexus made it look great the other night, adjusting the shifter so it wasn't aimed at the sky was a big improvement in rideability.
The Givi rack looks great and UPS covered all of the damage. I repaired it and bought new (inferior) Givi nubbins. I recommend using E6000 on them if you use them, or just get rubber bumpers from the local store. My originals have a giant notch to lock them in but these new ones have been through some cost savings efforts...
The intake sound with the snorkles out and the K&N installed sounds just like the '98, but that stock can is way too quiet. Ordering the fix on Friday
It is getting there and should be ready for regular duty after a few more items are discovered (risers, as I can't get the levers low enough to be comfortable with the stock handlebars) / installed.
Speaking of Sfdownhill, I think I'll have a seat on the way from him soon. And that's good news as this stock one is pretty terrible.
I put the yellow '00 on the road on Friday and went for a spin today against doctor's orders. I just can't wait until March or April!
The two teeth larger rear sprocket made a big difference, but I forgot to raise the rear using the eccentric when I installed it.
The unusual fork spring feeling was gone after I reinstalled the caps and got a few miles on it. Front sag is a little snug at 31mm, as is the back at 25mm, but I'm going to ride it a bit to see if everything loosens a bit. The adjustments were made with the bike cold and me out of my gear.
A few quick shots of Plexus made it look great the other night, adjusting the shifter so it wasn't aimed at the sky was a big improvement in rideability.
The Givi rack looks great and UPS covered all of the damage. I repaired it and bought new (inferior) Givi nubbins. I recommend using E6000 on them if you use them, or just get rubber bumpers from the local store. My originals have a giant notch to lock them in but these new ones have been through some cost savings efforts...
The intake sound with the snorkles out and the K&N installed sounds just like the '98, but that stock can is way too quiet. Ordering the fix on Friday
It is getting there and should be ready for regular duty after a few more items are discovered (risers, as I can't get the levers low enough to be comfortable with the stock handlebars) / installed.
Adding this pic because I'm a dork...
Slip on and SH847 kit ordered. Stay tuned!
SH847 should be here this week. Delkevic came today. It weighs so much less than the stocker and looks superb on there. Hoping to test it later this week.
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I'll bet it sounds even better than it looks!!
You tell me! Seems milder than I expected, which will be fine. Only 13"!
Ha...I have dual 8" Delkevics, they sound really good. But I had to go with the "quieter" baffles. With the stock baffle and catless VFRD header it was waaaaay too loud. I was really looking at whether I could take two 13" Delkevics and have them cut down to 10" or something 😕
Still no luck finding Helibars or Genmar risers for VFR00. Genmar would be better financially, but the Helibars would let me tilt the levers down a bit more, which is preferred.
Picked up a bag of 1/16" u-shaped washers/spacers for auto body spacing, as another post suggested. I'll use those on the stock shock mount. Planning to use 3 shims to get close enough.
0.188"=3/16"=4.78 mm
0.250”=4/16”=6.35 mm
If I ever bump into a smoking deal on a quality aftermarket shock, I'll replace it. Not long ago they were ~$600, now they're $1200+.
I'll do that job when I wire the double USB power source for the phone/GPS w/voltmeter, on the way from eBay. RAM mounts came in this week and will get done then also. I have the parts for the Passport and will wire/mount that on the front master just like VFR98. And the SH847 kit will go on then once I figure out the plug sourcing, which is so far, confusing.
I noticed that this bike has the stock windscreen and VFR98 has a double bubble looking one. I haven't spend enough time to notice any big difference yet, other than it isn't compeltely transparent/clear like the aftermarket one.
Looking forward to more miles before track season starts back up!
If you want more adjustability, try Convertibars.... I was lucky enough to find a used set... pretty rare they come up for sale.
https://www.convertibars.com/Default.asp
They're top on my list, but I never see them used.
My bike came with Convertibars. Not really sure I like them, but they do get you more upright. There's just barely any room between the tank and nose fairing for you to change the handlebar position, so the convertibars have to be angled awkwardly for my hands. Also, I can't have the clutch lever angled far enough down, so my wrist is in extension when operating the clutch which fatigues my wrist quickly. It seems like every aftermarket handlebar I've looked at would interfere with the fairing and/or tank, or would need extended throttle cables.
raYzerman, 12/9/2021 at 8:40 AM
If you want more adjustability, try Convertibars.... I was lucky enough to find a used set... pretty rare they come up for sale.
https://www.convertibars.com/Default.asp
ooh... do share some photos with the class
Still waiting for a few things, but it is coming together.
Wired voltmeter w/2 USB ports. This will let me power the phone/GPS just like on the other bikes. Also added the RAM mount just like the other VFR.
Wired the radar detector, but waiting for a cheap used unit and solderable 1/8" jack to arrive from fleabay later this week.
Wired and (hillbilly) mounted the SH847. I'm not sure I want to drill two large holes in teh sides of the subframe yet. I'll probably just make a cheap plate. Cable ties for placement and one safety wire...for safety. lol
Waiting on yellow striped used seat (yay!).
Rode UGLYRED the other day. Gods, that bike is nice to ride! The money I paid to have Thermosman do the forks was so worth it.
Hoping to get out on the yellow bike on Christmas while it is still warm here. Can't wait to see how the shimmed shock feels.
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Done (for now)!
Thanks all for the great info and to SF for the matching seat. You're like Lance(r) the not completely forgotten reindeer. 🙂
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Winner winner, chicken dinner...so far (~260 miles). All of the mods have worked out well.
The forks aren't too bad with just the spring change and no valving mod.
The shimmed rear shock is adequate with preload on 3 (stock is 2) and rebound damping 1 1/8" turn out. Compressions damping is too stiff, but there's no adjustment, so it stays as is!
Regulator rectifier update is 14.3-14.4 at RPM and 12.6-12.7 at idle. Radar and GPS rockin'.
Hi is it worth doing any spring changes/upgrades or the originals enough?
A few things to consider:
Rear shock
My ideal shock spring rate is ~900 lbs (I'm ~180-185 lbs in full gear). The stock shock is 857 lbs. For me, it is close enough unless I bump into a cheap aftermarket shock. The '98 has a Penske with 900 lb spring on it and there's a definite difference. Damping is a whole different story. The stock shock has no compression damping adjutment and it is set with too much damping. I'm just riding around it. the rebound damping is minimal adjustability, but at the stock 1 1/8 turns out from full in, it is adequate. The Penske on the '98 is miles better. Shimming it nearly 5mm also made a large, positive difference. Note that each setting has a purpose. You aren't going to solve a sage setting with damping, for instance. And...I'm cheap. Some folks seem to like progressive springs, and even talk about matching those front an rear. Every suspension person worth their salt that I have ever talked to says no, and after riding on both types, I agree. Straight rate spring are the proper choice.
Front forks
My ideal fork spring rate is .9 and stock is .74. It is a huge difference and I put in the proper straight rate springs. The difference is night and day. Without fork internal modifications, there is no great way to modify damping for compression or rebound. Some folks change oil weight or add parts like emulators. They can change the feeling and performance, but if you have the funds, I highly recommend having someone like Thermosman properly upgrade the forks. The '98 had this done and I ride it like I ride my track bike without any issue. As my "b" VFR, I'm content with just the spring upgrade so far. We'll see if I feel the same once spring (pun intended) arrives and the warmer weather allows a faster pace.
You'll want to consider geometry, ergonimics (for you), ground clearance as well as the specific functions of each part of the suspension (including tire and PSI choices).
Some interesting numbers, on spring rates. I’m running 1.05kg with Axxion valves in the front and a 1300# spring on a Penske 8983 in the rear and the bike is fantastic.
May I ask your weight with or without gear? Guesing 210 w/gear.
"Advice" in this area varies widely, and due to varying shock linkage and design...as well as personal preference, numbers vary widely as well!
https://www.penskeshocks.com/hubfs/Resources/Tech Sheets/PENSKE-SPRING-APPLICATION-CHART.pdf
...tells me 1100 lbs for my weight, but that would completely suck for me.
That site and most others also call for 1200 lbs on my CB-1...which I have tried and it was unrideable. I run a 912 on there now and 950 was too harsh. 1300 didn't even move from no weight to when I sat on the bike.
Same site for my R6 track bikes is 600 lbs. I run 575 lbs.
Honestly, I think that many of these places never tested most of the options or never went back and updated their "list."
https://racetech.com/ChooseVehicle.aspx is another good place to start, but same deal. If you want it right, you're going to have to want to go through some trial and error.
For me for the VFR, they suggest .9 front (yay!) and 18.8 kg/mm which is about 1050 lbs.
(To convert lb/in to kg/mm you multiply by 0.0179 and to convert kg/mm to lb/in you divide by 0.0179.)
Those rear shock spring rates recommended by Penske and RaceTech are plain crazy, way too harsh. For a 200 lb rider, shouldn't be more than 900.
RaceTech gave me a shock for my FJR, a heavier bike, with an 1100 lb. spring, rode like a truck..... had it resprung to 850 and it was perfect.
Their fork spring rates are good at .9-1.0, yes, straight rates only up front.....
So much of this is rider preference. We're always working around conditions because they're always changing from weather, temps, fuel load, tire wear, and so much more. I am a rider who is very light on controls so my bike feels loose to friends who like their "welded" feeling. I find riding their bikes a jarring experience with little room for error.
The CB-1 is the biggest joke of them all, due to the unusual shock linkage configuration. I've owned about 7 of them and suspension guys kept telling me I need a stiffer spring. I started at the recommended 1300 and worked my way back down to where I started!
I love this pic not only because it is a super shot of me stalking my friend at my favorite track (getting on the gas through the last turn to get him on the brakes at the end of the straight!), but because we swapped bikes and he didn't get a lap in. He said my bike was unridable. I rode his a few laps, but swore he had both ends welded to the frame. And yet...look at us, doing nearly exactly the same things, same lap times, same body position, etc. What a great sport we have!
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1 hour ago, raYzerman
Those rear shock spring rates recommended by Penske and RaceTech are plain crazy, way too harsh. For a 200 lb rider, shouldn't be more than 900.
RaceTech gave me a shock for my FJR, a heavier bike, with an 1100 lb. spring, rode like a truck..... had it resprung to 850 and it was perfect.
Their fork spring rates are good at .9-1.0, yes, straight rates only up front.....
Martin Musil, at Traxxion Dynamics, has been my go-to suspension tech, the last 15yrs. Eric Trinkley, at Penske, has built five shocks for me, over roughly the same time period. My bikes have always been perfect, regardless of any charts.
Lurked along just now. I also have a 98 & a y2K. I was gonna swap the Staintune form the 98 for the 2 Brothers Racing on the y2K. Wanted to hear the Staintune through the Cat. it's a little harsh for me on the 98.
You opted for a different Can. Howcum?
Nice report / thread BTW.
cheers!
Left Staintune, which I love, on the '98. Added an inexpensive (but very nice) Delkevic slip on to the '00. Both seem to work perfectly. Not too loud. I'd try the swap!
Can folks familiar with the 2000 suspension convey the stock valving, front and back? The springs are the right weight, but I haven't had anything valved yet. It feels...not great. 🙂
According to an good online source the stock valving should be as follows:
Front forks
HMAS Compression valve
12 x .1
17 x .1
17 x .1
16 x .1
16 x .1
8 x .2 clamp
11.5 x .4 spacer
HMAS Rebound valve
17 x .1
16 x .1
15 x.1
8 x .2 clamp
11.5 x .4 spacer
My personal opinion is that the stock valve bodies are a poor starting point for mods as they have restrictive ports, so the shim selection has less of an effect than on say Gold Valves. I run a stiffer compression valve set up on GVs and yet the ride is much better on sharp hits, because the shims can deflect and allow faster flow though the bigger ports.
I surely feel the hits on both ends now...
Traxxion Dynamics Cartridges for the win 👍
Unless the springs have been changed, I can’t believe they’re of the correct rate. Both ends are massively undersprung, stock.
Rear shock is stock. The spring rate is close enough, but the valving feels like crap.
Front springs are .90 kg/mm but I didn't touch valving yet. Again, spring rate is perfect but valving feels terrible.
For reference, I’m on 1.05kg springs in the front and a 1300lb spring in the rear. The front has Traxxion Dynamics Axxion valves (simple setup) and the rear is a Penske 8983. Martin Musil, at Traxxion, has done all my stuff, the last 15yrs. The bike rides amazing.
I don’t believe you’ll ever get the stock stuff to feel great. All my bikes have gotten Axxion valves or AK-20 cartridges and some variant of Penske. Once I rode decent stuff, I’ve never bought a bike without the thought of sending off the forks and buying a shock. The investment is so worth it.
You can get into a custom-built Wilber’s fairly inexpensively and probably the best value going. There’s one on FB at £500, right now. For the front, just send them off. A good shop will put the tubes in a lathe, check runout/straighten, and polish them. Either Race Tech or Traxxion valves will be good. If the shop has a solid database, the valving should come back perfect. Develop a relationship with a suspension guy and you’ll always have someone who’ll know how you like a bike and set it up accordingly.
Most of the other bikes I have have suspension customzed for me. I'm just being frugal...or failing at being frugal.
ducnut, a 1300 lb. spring? You sure? Must ride like a rock..... a 200 lb. guy only needs an 850, or 900 at the most....... sometimes there's a number stamped on the spring, and it can be decoded, spring rate is usually the last few digits........
That is uper strong. I'm 185# w/full gear and am 850-950# spring, depending on the bike.
(Bad) spec for me on the CB-1 is 1300#, but they didn't consider the linkage when they created the list.
1 hour ago, raYzerman
ducnut, a 1300 lb. spring? You sure? Must ride like a rock..... a 200 lb. guy only needs an 850, or 900 at the most....... sometimes there's a number stamped on the spring, and it can be decoded, spring rate is usually the last few digits........
Yep. The heaviest Hyperco that’d fit the shock AND swingarm space. From what Eric Trinkley (Penske tech) told me, the VFR’s linkage ratio requires a heavier spring than one would normally think. And, the bike rides amazing. I have a buddy with a stock VFR, who spent a whole day on it, because he loves it so much. That day, I rode my SV, which is also outfitted with Martin and Eric’s work. Likewise, it’s fantastic to ride, though the lighter weight of the bike means it’s not quite as plush as the VFR.
*Disregard the invoice’s model of shock, as it’s mounted on an 8983. And, it was built to a 6th Gen’s length, because I wanted to start with a longer shock body, to raise the rearend.
That is just nuts. That is uber strong. I'm 185# w/full gear and am 850-950# spring, depending on the bike. I've never even heard of anyone going near that high on any bike, regardless of their weight. But if you like it! What kind of sag numbers do you get from it?
I did finally get around to flushing the 22 year old brake and clutch fluid over the last 24 hours. The stuff that came out wasn't really that bad. Still, both systems feel and work better now. I also threw in a not so free oil change. I thought it was still in there from the Honda build, but I spotted the Fram filter. Mobil 1 4T went in and it surely feel and shifts much better.
20-25mm F&R, depending on stiction. I did a quick check, when newly assembled, but, I’ve not bothered to check it since. Might be a bit more, now.
OK lesson learned..... checked other sources for the specific bike application.... spring rates are generally higher for VFR's, depending on your weight... 1000-1300 lbs/in. Carry on.... 🤐 😁
Now you're making me do actual work. Harumph... Going through old notes, and my weight hasn't changed:
CB-1: 912# rear spring, .9kg fork springs (same as multiple prior ones)
98 VFR: 900# rear spring, .9kg fork springs (Same as prior '99)
00 VFR: 857# stock spring, .9kg fork springs
Track bike 03 R6 #1: 575# rear spring, .925kg fork springs (perfect for me)
Track bike 03 R6 #2: 600# rear spring, .900kg fork springs (It is fine, but was set up on its tail and now is set up on its nose)
Prior R6 was identical to #1. Prior to that was 550#, .925kg.
07 GSXR750 track bike: ~535# rear spring, .966kg fork springs
93 FJ: 975# rear spring, 1.05 fork springs
VTR250 had .830 fork springs.
I never looked back at one time, but the story seems pretty much the same. Slightly lighter springs up front for lighter bikes. Changing rates in back for varying mechanics/action.
In a rare move...I lightly cleaned it after the brake fluid flush and oil change.
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Back to bars. I just measured the stock height (center of bar 3.25" above top of triple) against the Helibars which claim a 1 1/4" additional rise (but actually measure 4", so .75" more rise). That is total BS and explains why I notice a difference, but that they aren't all day comfy by any stretch. Narrowed it down to a few options, but can't find comparison measurements from stock.
https://www.helibars.com/products/helibars-handlebar-risers-for-honda-vfr800-vfr800-vtec.html
To me, $360 has always sounded like about twice or more what they're worth. I'd get another set used if I could find one.
https://www.convertibars.com/product-p/honda-vfr-800-i-00-01.htm
I checked a set of these on a VFR in person yesterday, but they felt way off. I'd surely hace to play with the angle. Looks like 1" ride from stock without getting lines. Still, $340, which seems insanely high to me.
https://www.apexmfg.com/all-products/apex-clip-ons/apex-3-riser-clip-on-set
I've been trying to buy footpegs from these guys for many years, so I'm not even sure if they sell anything listed on their site. And, 3" looks like the size, not the optional rise from stock, so useless unless the sell a taller vertical shaft as an option. They're cheaper at $263!
https://woodcraft-cfm.com/collections/clipon-risers also makes some, but max 3" rise, so same as stock.
A lister has a stock screen on the way to me to replace the bubble I have on the red '98. The stock one seems like a lot less wind on the neck muscles!
A local guy sold a shock out from under me and didn't tell me until I got to his house to pick it up yesterday. People... so, I'm still hunting for a shock for the yellow '00.
I did bump into this, which I hadn't seen before.
I think that rising only would just make the levers even higher than stock.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/284690254630
1 hour ago, Skids
What a twat 🤬
I think he's dealing with some other big stuff, but I would have liked to have those two hours for something useful...
16 hours ago, bmart
A local guy sold a shock out from under me and didn't tell me until I got to his house to pick it up yesterday. People... so, I'm still hunting for a shock for the yellow '00.
I have a stock shock that is in serviceable condition - pulled at 26k. Let me know if you are interested, I will snap some pics.
Thanks again. It has a good stock shock, I want a Penske/Ohlins, etc.
8 hours ago, bmart
Thanks again. It has a good stock shock, I want a Penske/Ohlins, etc.
Right on, I missed that you had said it earlier in the thread. Good luck!
On the topic of bars, I went with Apex on my RZ350 when I put R6 forks on it. They were okay but I had issues with their tolerances on a number of details. A bit later I ordered some replacement bars and they were not the same as the first ones I bought. I ended up asking for a refund and returned the parts as agreed, but I had to chase them forever for the money. They weren't terrible but the overall experience put me off. I ordered Convertibars instead and wouldn't hesitate to buy those first if I changed bars on the VFR.
I'm not sure why reading a ruler is so difficult, but I can't seem to find someone who can do it accurately consistently. My gal helped last night while the bike was warm. She paid close attention. It is absolutely much better than it was prior. No way to adjust fork damping easily, but the rear shock needs some damping tweaking. Currently rebound set to 1.5 turns out from full in...but I think that the non adjustable compression is the real bugger.
A VFR, a CB-1, and a Suzuki ride into a bar, and the bartender says, "what is this, a joke?" Anyway...
I finally got out on UGLYRED, the 1998 VFR you all talked me into keeping, for the first ride since months ago. It functioned fine, but there were peculiarities in the dash display, but not other systems. The clock would periodically reset itself, as would the two trip meters. I've never seen that before on...anything.
Voltage remained correct at ~14.7V, like always. It was 12.5V when I rolled it out, which was a little odd, as I charge it every two weeks. The Motobatt battery is just under 3.5 years old and they seem to go 6-8 years without issue. I checked the battery terminals; the fuses and other connectors are up next (tonight/tomorrow). Then I remembered a post, which I couldn't find despite my best searching, about corroded connections in the board that makes up the dash. Does this sound related? Any other good ideas? Grounding connections? I did not need another bike task on the winter list! Red. I hate red!
Found many fuses looked like these. Cleaned them and the fuse holder. Also the DIODE ASSY., THREE WAY (SUMITOMO)
31730-MAS-601, which looked like a fuse to me.
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3 hours ago, bmart
A VFR, a CB-1, and a Suzuki ride into a bar, and the bartender says, "what is this, a joke?" Anyway...
I finally got out on UGLYRED, the 1998 VFR you all talked me into keeping, for the first ride since months ago. It functioned fine, but there were peculiarities in the dash display, but not other systems. The clock would periodically reset itself, as would the two trip meters. I've never seen that before on...anything.
Voltage remained correct at ~14.7V, like always. It was 12.5V when I rolled it out, which was a little odd, as I charge it every two weeks. The Motobatt battery is just under 3.5 years old and they seem to go 6-8 years without issue. I checked the battery terminals; the fuses and other connectors are up next (tonight/tomorrow). Then I remembered a post, which I couldn't find despite my best searching, about corroded connections in the board that makes up the dash. Does this sound related? Any other good ideas? Grounding connections? I did not need another bike task on the winter list! Red. I hate red!
Hi Bmart.
If it was my bike, I'd go through those fuses and replace every one of them, they are most likely original and show signs of corrosion or oxidization on the legs. Give the contacts a wash with something like Metho on a firm small brush, then fit the new fuses with a small amount of Ox-Gard on the legs of each fuse. Given the not so good look of your Sub Fuses, have a good look at the state of your two Main 30amp Fuses.
Do the same for the three legged Clutch diode, cleaning its contacts, and lightly shine up the Diode Legs with very fine emery paper or similar, and also a coating of Ox-Gard on its legs before re-inserting.
As for your instrument LCD. Most definelty the two main connectors making pressure contact to the PCB are a cause for the LCD to go blank(not the only cause!), as they can develop high resistance contacts. Again a good clean of both PCB copper contacts and the connector contacts then a light coating of Ox-Gard will help greatly. Do this then reassess the LCD situation.
Good Luck.
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I had my last VFR start to reset the clock when I started it hot. It just needed a new battery. For less than $100 it is a cheap thing to swap out if you've not already done so.
Cleaning the fuses and diodes is a sound strategy too. Thanks to Grum's help, I figured out that my occasional hot-start problem on my ST1300 was a dirty diode connection. Who'd a thunk that?
If I might add, do not neglect the ground side of things.... the spider connector taped into the wire harness, left side, and the grounding screw on the right side frame.
Thanks, guys. I'll check all of those before the next ride!