After picking around the net for hours trying to locate info and pics on how to properly install a Wolf Exhaust onto my RC46, I am left a bit more confused than when I started.
I would like to ask Wolf owners, if the would be so kind as to take as many pics of the setup including how the electrics around the battery box are remounted, FI computer is remounted, and any other custom fixes/upgrades that might help myself and others in the future.
Also, if any one has a copy of the original install instructions...
The attached instructions are not mine, but do include the original Wolf instructions with a lot of extra, unnecessary information. Use your best judgement in fitting it up. These were posted probably 15 years ago, all the embedded links are dead.
The attached instructions are not mine, but do include the original Wolf instructions with a lot of extra, unnecessary information. Use your best judgement in fitting it up. These were posted probably 15 years ago, all the embedded links are dead.
Wolf System Installation.pdf 169.28 kB · 6 downloads
Thanks Cap.
In the pic the ECU looks to be strapped to the right...any pics of the left? Do you have a power commander or the like?
Some pics of my wiring. I found the stock steel Wolf tray can get quite hot which I think is why they instruct to attach the ECU to the side of subframe. My PC2 will go back on the left side of the subframe before I put it back together. (When I started to take these pics today I noticed the ECU zip tie was broken and it was just loose behind the tail. So I got to tear in to this also! Beefier tie now added.)
This is not a Wolf, but here's how I addressed the heat problem on my custom Laser underseats. The PGM-FI unit is attached to the underside of a Home Depot/OSH-sourced alloy sheet with outdoor Scotch Dual Lock tape, so it doesn't touch the hot alloy undertray at all. The cut-outs are to clear the seat mounting points. I didn't bother with nut-serts--the fasteners are screwed into tapped holes in the subframe (but I would probably use nut-serts if I were to do this again).
Some pics of my wiring. I found the stock steel Wolf tray can get quite hot which I think is why they instruct to attach the ECU to the side of subframe. My PC2 will go back on the left side of the subframe before I put it back together. (When I started to take these pics today I noticed the ECU zip tie was broken and it was just loose behind the tail. So I got to tear in to this also! Beefier tie now added.)
This is not a Wolf, but here's how I addressed the heat problem on my custom Laser underseats. The PGM-FI unit is attached to the underside of a Home Depot/OSH-sourced alloy sheet with outdoor Scotch Dual Lock tape, so it doesn't touch the hot alloy undertray at all. The cut-outs are to clear the seat mounting points. I didn't bother with nut-serts--the fasteners are screwed into tapped holes in the subframe (but I would probably use nut-serts if I were to do this again).
This seems a straight forward solution. How long have you been running this setup?
Can you tell me what it is that the arrow is pointing to?
[image: image.png]
Sure, that's a sealed Delphi Metri-Pack 280 6P female connector, TPA and terminals, holding three ATM fuses and topped with a cover. Very handy for adding three light-duty circuits.