Well... shit. DON'T need another bike. But I gotta inquire.
Message the dude thru OfferUp:
"Is the title in your name? When was the last time it ran?"
Response: "It just needs one small part"
"Yeah. I read that. Are you the titled owner and how long since it has ran?"
"Yah, I got the title. A few years. Started dumping fuel out of this part when I was trying to start it"
OK then, we got some info to go on now. I call him and we talk and he seems like a decent dude. I tell him normally I would just come out and look and talk to you in person. But it was a pretty good trek to check it out, so I tell him that and ask, "so... what do you think you wanna get out of it?"
"I don't know, five hundred bucks. I'd probably take 400, I just wanna get back some money I put into it before it got parked."
It's on. We make arrangements for DEC 23rd, my first day off for the Holidays. It's a ferry ride over to Kingston with a trailer, so a $30 tab there. Then down the peninsula to Port Orchard. Couple hours easy. Get there and it's a beauty day, so I'm able to roll it out of the spot you see in the above pic.
First thing... Fox Twin Clicker. Good start. The 8 spoke wheel is probably worth what I'm paying anyway, so no risk really. It's all there. Tank is off, but it is drained and 100% clean on the inside. Fuck yes. Original Honda key, owner's manual and tool kit. Asked about a seat cowl and he just looked puzzled... "never mind". New chain and sprockets (chain is pretty rusty). Essentially brand new (5 years ago) Michelin Pilot Power tires. Steel braided lines up front. 70K miles... doesn't really matter on these engines. Look down at the shiny oil filter and pop the dipstick. Oil looked like it just came of a bottle. Cool. It got ridden home from the shop and pretty much parked. Notice the drain plug and adjacent oil pan has been drilled... that actually makes me happy. It means somebody might have gone thru the front end to match the rear shock at some point for a track day or few. The forks feel like they have real springs in them and somebody updated to the later fork caps with pre-load adjustment.
He shows me the "one small part" it needs. "I think it's some kind of fuel separator or something". I am playing dumb. "yeah? huh." It's a plastic vacuum valve with a broken nipple for the emissions that is gonna end up in the trash anyway. "Fuel was coming out of that broken off part". I know it's just dirty carbs at this point.
"you said you'd take $400?" "yep" Exchange money and title / bill of sale and load it up.
Not pretty but hey. Every piece of bodywork has issues, but that tank is really nice. Oh yeah, a Corbin... whatever. Decide to make it a big round trip and drive around thru Tacoma (over a toll bridge) and back up thru Seattle. I left around 9am and got home around 3pm. Pretty good day. At least it was a beautiful day for driving.
Here's back home after a quick strip.
[image: 2016930099_PXL_20211224_1957236161.jpg]
So the winter plan is to clean the carbs and get her running. The carbs are already out and while not great they are not terrible. Very doable. I already have the PAIR system and emission crap eliminated. I bought a 2003 rear wheel to replace the 8 spoke for personal use on my 95 (likely). Then go thru the systems and make it ride-able.
Brakes front and rear are sticking and need to be serviced. Hopefully the pistons aren't pitted.
Flush the coolant system.
I'm sure the fork seals are gonna start leaking the next time I just look at them.
I have a plan for adapting a slip-on (D&D), I think it's gonna work perfect.
Stock 1993 shock on the way (w/ rebound damping) so I can remove the Fox for rebuild (it still passes the critical seat-bounce test we all learned on showroom floors).
New inner / rear fender to replace this hacked unit.
Try and go thru the bodywork to make it mount better and look more presentable.
Gonna modify the passenger peg brackets to remove the peg portions.
I source my parts individually. Viton o-rings for the float bowls and fuel / vent cross over tubes. Genuine Keihin jets as needed.
Keyster makes decent stuff, but It's still a crap shoot about what you're actually getting. I personally would rather not spend money on "kits" when I might get one or two usable things out of it.
I source my parts individually. Viton o-rings for the float bowls and fuel / vent cross over tubes. Genuine Keihin jets as needed.
Keyster makes decent stuff, but It's still a crap shoot about what you're actually getting. I personally would rather not spend money on "kits" when I might get one or two usable things out of it.
That's what I usually do with my CBs because I know where to source all the needed parts. Besides the link from a Thai site that Bmart forwarded, where can I find the parts? Is there a link/store that has the information of all the parts sizes and such?
I do it pretty much all trial and error, measuring the application and then fitting samples, adjusting as needed. I'm just starting to get into RC36 (I have a 95 and now a 90), haven't got into these carbs all the way yet. The float bowl o-rings should be -041. They are on all of my other Honda V4s. Fuel cross-overs are 7x2mm on my other bikes. Can't remember the vent cross over o-rings sizes off the top of my head.
Maybe head over to V4 Dreams and check out what he has. Awesome resource.
I have bought from these guys and the CB-1 parts showed up. They're for real. 🙂
I bought stuff for my CBs from a bunch of Thai sites before. They have very good sites for NLA stuff. My problem is waiting for the mail to show up from Thailand
Pulled the carbs and removed the emissions / PAIR CRAP. Later I will remove the hard lines from the heads and use the fittings to create block off plates. Since I can't get to the rear right now I just decided to loop back on themselves, which I've done before.
I'm not going to break the carbs apart right now. They will get a full cleaning and bench synch only. The needles were shimmed, pilots are stock at 38 (for CA) and the mains are still #130 (49 & CA). I think the boots will be supple enough with some heat to re-install just to verify how the engine sounds. Then some decisions will be made, like coolant o-rings and alternative jetting. With all the extraneous shit removed around the carbs, they come out pretty easy.
V of the motor with 70K miles and then sitting in some weather for a few years. Not pretty.
Nice find, congrats! Even if it takes some time and money, what a great thing to bring a VFR back from the brink. It's not something I could do, but huge kudos to you for taking it on. 👍
New wheel to replace the 8 spoke. 2002 5.5". Pretty sure I will need to machine some reliefs for the rotor nuts, no big deal. Regardless if I keep this bike or not, the 8 spoke wheel will likely not be staying on it. Low mile 1993 shock so I can remove the Fox TC. 1992-93 shocks got aluminum lower clevises with rebound adjustment. The Fox shock will likely not be returning either, I have other plans maybe. In any case it needs to come out for a cleaning and service.
Pulled the carbs and removed the emissions / PAIR CRAP. Later I will remove the hard lines from the heads and use the fittings to create block off plates. Since I can't get to the rear right now I just decided to loop back on themselves, which I've done before.
I am on the fence with removing mine. It looks a lot more complicated than the ones I removed from my Kawasakis. How easy is it to source the blocking plates?
I am on the fence with removing mine. It looks a lot more complicated than the ones I removed from my Kawasakis. How easy is it to source the blocking plates?
You can get them on eBay for about $30 if you don't wanna make your own from the hard lines fittings you are removing.
It's not complicated at all. Just plugging any EXTRA vent or vacuum ports / lines that are left over. Seeing the pile of junk on the floor when you're done is very gratifying.
The biggest problem people have is not being able to identify what is a vent or vacuum and what is supposed to remain routed or what is extraneous from the PAIR and/or CA emissions. A methodical, logical approach makes it easy. At least in my experience, but I've probably done more than 10 now, easy.
Offer-up is the real bottom-feeder of sale sites or apps or whatever it is. I need to start looking there again. They had the TV commercials with somebody parachuting in to buy your crap, etc. When you post items for sale, all you need is a picture and a price, you don't have to write a single word! The app will look at the picture of your VFR for sale and title it "red motorcycle for sale" if you can't be bothered to create your own description.
Offer-up is the real bottom-feeder of sale sites or apps or whatever it is. I need to start looking there again. They had the TV commercials with somebody parachuting in to buy your crap, etc. When you post items for sale, all you need is a picture and a price, you don't have to write a single word! The app will look at the picture of your VFR for sale and title it "red motorcycle for sale" if you can't be bothered to create your own description.
I think that was "Let Go", which Offer Up bought. You still have to create the ad in Offer Up.
Oh, you're right. I'll check them out. By the time I search CL and FB, I'm usually too aggravated to look at anything else... eBay? Fuggedaboudit! Only if I have a part number!
I got a complete RC24 750 engine with carbs (sitting for years, haven't tried to turn the crank) for $20 recently on FB... Included a furniture dolly and a milk crate, so I'm WAY ahead!
Carbs cleaned, bench synched and re-assembled. Even with the older insulators, the carbs went right in with a very satisfying "pop". She fired instantly. No weird noises or smoke. Fucking awesome. Came off choke almost immediately and into a nice idle. Settles quickly back into idle after some revs. No fuel leaks. Small exhaust leak at the rear flange, I can see the missing nut. I'll take care of that when I have the sub frame off to replace the shock.
I can proceed as planned.
And then the valve covers started POURING oil. Hah! Some more work I guess. At least I know the motor is good. Stoked!
I managed to cause a small Exxon Valdez recreation on my 86 in the mancave after bolting the rear cam cover back down but failing to check that the seal was in the groove all the way around. There appears to be some Rubiks cube magic involved in getting that cover back in place. Hopefully a nice easy fix for you too.
The leaks are from age and/or sitting, I didn't have them off. When I get them off and they are hopefully not crumbling, I will likely clean them and Hondabond them up to move this thing on. It was still a relief to hear the motor fire up. I did have to unplug and clean a couple connectors in front of the dash on the harness to "release" the ignition spark. That was another big relief.
Hey, watch it! Yeah.... "shop". It's not my living room. The shop gets the continual hand me downs. It is full surround tho, and two 55" LCDs for watching motorcycle racing. The classic big Speakerlabs in the corners still sound great for music too.
Haha, have to confess I'm living in a glass house--or maybe garage. I have a really cheesy pair of speakers that get their sound from an old iPhone. But at least they're newer than that amp!
Haha, have to confess I'm living in a glass house--or maybe garage. I have a really cheesy pair of speakers that get their sound from an old iPhone. But at least they're newer than that amp!
Also, only two bikes. I aspire to more.
Digital Dolby DTS 6.1 surround... slumming it in my shop, 2 big screens, staring at my current favorite bike (the one on the lift).
Just finished the first episode of MotoGP Unlimited with my buddy, drinking a couple Black and Tans on St. Paddy's.
Jesus Christ... a lot of things are newer than that amp. But you know what aren't? Any of my bikes!
I'll never have fun.
Despite the lousy sound in the garage I do have a super duper Sonos system in my house. Started with two Sonos One speakers in the kitchen, then when my Sony amp (still probably newer than your shop device...) started failing I went all in and got the Sonos amp to power the Paradigm speakers in the living room.
It is a great amp. Sonos software is poor but once you figure it out the sound is excellent. (it plays St. Stephen well)
Anyway, I'd love to see a one hour You Tube video of you and V4 Dreams. In your garage of course!
Despite the lousy sound in the garage I do have a super duper Sonos system in my house. Started with two Sonos One speakers in the kitchen, then when my Sony amp (still probably newer than your shop device...) started failing I went all in and got the Sonos amp to power the Paradigm speakers in the living room.
It is a great amp. Sonos software is poor but once you figure it out the sound is excellent. (it plays St. Stephen well)
Anyway, I'd love to see a one hour You Tube video of you and V4 Dreams. In your garage of course!
Our house is an updated 1956 Rambler that I hard wired with ethernet into each bedroom, kitchen and livingroom from a central router connected to fiber. Was not fun. But this was before really good mesh wireless networks. Plus, hard wired is always better.
So... a little bit of a kluge... but it works. Sound system from the shop feeds the outer shop and outdoor eating area next to the inner shop. Sounds pretty fucking good and all in synch.
Tours at some point in the future. Prepping for a new concrete patio in the outdoor dining room as we speak.
Rear subframe and inner fender back on and the wire harness re-routed. Cleaned up, straightened and painted the brake pedal and shifter. Shot the muffler stay while I was at it. New steering head bearings installed and forks back on after a quick clean up and some paint.
Finally rolled it outside Saturday afternoon for a proper running. D&D sounds amazing. V4 growl without being obnoxious at all. Really happy with it. Bike ran great with no oil leaks (whew...). Smoked a little at first but cleaned up as it came up to temp, I'm sure it was just from sitting for a few years and all the PB Blaster I sprayed in all of the exhaust junctures. Engine didn't make any funny noises, sounded like a healthy gear driven cam V4. Bike revved up great and settled into an idle as expected. Oh, and all the exhaust leaks are gone now after going thru the mounts.
Tested the fuel pump and it works. Checked the charging system, Low 14s. All good news. Temp gage didn't work at first, but after disconnecting the wire and reconnecting it started working. Didn't want to restart one time until I sprayed some WD40 down around the kill rocker, and worked it a few times. Had a little weirdness while manipulating one of the fuses, so the fuse box needs love too. There's still a bunch of connectors I need to go thru, along with the fuse box and kill switch.
Had to use a 1986 VFR rear brake fluid res on a small bracket. The original unit's screws were rusted frozen and the plastic was pretty hammered. This one fits in the rear cowl no problem and you can still see the level thru the sight hole. I cleaned up the hack job somebody did on the rear fender, and straightened the subframe brace where the seat latch mounts. Was bent down a bit from years of people slamming the seat into the latch. I always open the latch manually when installing seats and release with pressure on the seat.
Getting close to a test ride. I'll grab a short video clip the next time I take it outside to heat cycle it again.
Enjoying the process. Looks funny without the 8 spoker. I hope you're saving it for another project, or to pay for one!
This whole ordeal started life as, "Look, it's a whole VFR with a couple goodies for what the rear wheel is worth."
I am 100% selfishly saving this wheel for me. Likely my 1995 VFR unless something more needy comes along. I purposely put a 4th Gen wheel on my Hawk GT, as I didn't want a 5.5" on that bike. 5.0 is the sweet spot on the NT650, imo.
This bike is VERY likely being sold to fund other things. I still want a Gen 3, just a better starting point. But now I have a Fox TC, steel braided lines and correct fork springs for the next one. In the meantime I've also acquired a rear fender that hasn't been hacked to death and a Left Exit full Two Brothers.
I'm at $850 total for where it sits in the above pic. Probably removed close to $1000 worth of parts.
I sold a worn out, no compression, hydraulics busted tractor for the price of the spin-out wheels that were on it a few years ago. I'm sure he parted it out and got his money back on it. I got it off the farm and we were both happy. Your project is a lot more interesting, though it parallels in many respects. I'm glad you're going to put the 8 spoker to good use along with some of the other goodies!
Apologies if I missed it - I see mention of the clean / repaint of the forks (looks great, BTW) - just wondering about the front wheel. Looks 5/6 gen to my somewhat trained eye. I've long been curious about backwards / forward compatibility of front wheels. If true those are 3g forks and a 5/6G front wheel / rotor, is that a direct bolt in or are any mods required?
Apologies if I missed it - I see mention of the clean / repaint of the forks (looks great, BTW) - just wondering about the front wheel. Looks 5/6 gen to my somewhat trained eye. I've long been curious about backwards / forward compatibility of front wheels. If true those are 3g forks and a 5/6G front wheel / rotor, is that a direct bolt in or are any mods required?
4G front wheel. 5/6G are wider at the rotors and axles spacers, I believe... not bolt on.
I thought they looked pretty unique too. Pretty sure I'm going to graft on a Honda Fuse Box from a different year VFR or maybe CBR. I have a couple on the way, plus a couple "in stock", to compare and see which one is the best candidate. I have some donor wire harnesses I can source the harness side plugs too. Should be pretty easy actually. Still find it very UN-Honda like to have the fuse panel hard wired. Maybe they did it that way moving forward, all my shit is "old".
Those terminals are zinc coated, which are OK. Corrosion is actually from uncoated wires. Personally, I always use silicone pre-tinned wires.
What you can do in this case is remove corrosion with Deoxit spray. Then
solder over the crimped wire-ends. This will improve conductivity as well as seal uncoated wire-ends from moisture. Which tends to creep down wire-ends and cause internal corrosion.
Electrical gremlins are sorted, was able to clean up and retain the stock fuse box. The last item was the neutral switch on the crankcase that becomes finicky when hot and flickers slightly. Well with the sidestand down that meant it is cutting ignition every time it flickers. My temp "solution" before replacing the neutral switch was to jump the wires and make the bike think the side stand is up. Because it's a 3 wire switch, I can still retain the Side Stand warning light functionality when down.
I ran a whole remote fuel container with zero issues. Bike runs sweet, revs smooth and idles perfect. No oil or fuel leaks, and doesn't smoke at all now after a few heat cycles.
Should be ready for a Spring Sale pretty soon. Time to go.
OK... another change. Bought another shitty muffler for the flange and fabbed up one more slip-on for a fairly crappy Two Brothers Oval CF Magnesium slip on.
It had been cut down a bit and rebuilt after some damage and was on a 1986 VFR with a Kerker 4-1 I bought off a friend. I also swapped the passenger peg brackets off of the 1992 on to this. Probably better to have some passenger pegs on the bike I'm selling. I'll use the modified ones I did for this on the 1992, that will eventually have a left exit Full TB.
In the meantime while I go thru the 1992 systems, before the resto and full exhaust, I can run the original D&D slip on I made that I like better.
It is idling using it's own fuel supply right there. I had to swap out the fuel pump with another used one I had, it was acting funny. Pretty close to sellable.
Bike: 400
RR wheel: 200
Front wheel, discs and new Dunlop (date code 2020): Free. I got a full refund from the seller when I contacted him about some damage and a slightly bent disc that wasn't described in the listing. He didn't want it back. I straightened the disc,
Shock: 100
Steering head bearings: 50
Slip on: Free. Came on a 1986 VFR I bought. Well, the adapter piece was 15.
Tank: 150
Mirrors: Free. Came off the 92, which I have perfect ones for from my 95 that has 01 mirrors on it.
Here's what I got off of it.
8 spoke rear wheel (+ stock front wheel)
Stainless front brake lines
RT fork springs
Fox Twin Clicker
VERY nice original fuel tank
End of thread · 50 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 5 Jul 2022