VFRDiscussion ARCHIVE / READ-ONLYREAD-ONLY

Winterization

31 posts Started 21 Oct 2023 Last recovered post 8 May 2024 Wayback Machine snapshot 15 Aug 2024

#1

Morning all, its been a long time since i put my 2001 vfr800 to sleep over the winter.  I have a 2015 now, and am getting ready to store it over the snowy months. Is it recommended to put oil down the cylinder for storage?

Ron

#2

IMO, if it's just for 2-3 Mths in a garage I wouldn't bother. You might want to think about the fuel though if you are using stuff with 10% ethanol. In that case I'd be inclined to make sure it's completely full. You could always turn the engine over to normal operating temp every couple of weeks or so ( if that's convenient) and then change the oil in Spring. A battery maintainer/ optimiser would definitely be worth hooking up. Finally get the wheels off the ground if you have the stands.

I'm sure others more experienced will chip in.

#3

I don't think that the bike will care. 

#4

The biggest thing to be concerned with is ethanol fuel. It doesn't take long for it to draw water. If you have it I would drain it out of the tank and carbs and leave the cap off the tank to dry. I always use no ethanol fuel unless I'm on a trip and can't find any. In that case I figure it won't do any harm as it's going right through the tank. It's sitting around with ethanol in the fuel that does the harm.

Keep the battery topped off and I wouldn't start the bike during it's slumber as that just puts moisture into the engine and oil. It's also best to change the oil before putting the bike up for the winter as that will get rid of the old oil with the acids and contaminants in it and give everything a good coating of fresh oil.

#5

I only use high test fuel, no ethanol. Thanks, Ron

#6

Two things worth noting.

Higher octane fuel goes bad quicker than lower octane fuel. 

Ethanol free does not mean water free, and water wreaks havoc. I've been this route countless times. 

#7

What are everyones thoughts on using Sta-bil fuel stabilizer?

#8

I have no ethanol premium in my pressure washer and it's been in there for years. Never had an issue with starting or running, other than when I forget to turn the ignition on.

#9
2 hours ago, tsmitty

What are everyones thoughts on using Sta-bil fuel stabilizer?

I sometimes use it for short to medium length storage, but I still drain my carbs every winter, except for my 2 or 3 Winter bikes. I've read for LONG term storage there may be better products, but I've never had a problem.

I have a 35 gallon gas pump on wheels in my outer shop.  I fill it with non-ethanol, lead substitute, and the lighter ratio of Stabil.  It is for my vintage bikes, lawn equipment, hanging remote gas bottle and "emergencies".

In our area non-ethanol is too rare to be able to always run it exclusively on rides.  But my vintage bikes rarely go farther than a tank, so the in-shop gas pump has been great.

#10

All tests that I have seen say meh... I never drain my carbs on the two vehicles that use them. I just run E-free fuel and run them before they sit to get any H2O out (heavier than the actual fuel). 

I used to believe in StarTron until I watched some tests and they highlighted all of the problem that I was having using it. 

Just the fuel, ma'am. Just the fuel. 

#11
18 minutes ago, bmart

and run them before they sit to get any H2O out (heavier than the actual fuel).

Please explain what the F that means.  You can never get all the fuel out when you just drain a tank, so that's exactly where any water will still be pooled...  below where fuel is getting pulled from.  How much water do you think you have in your tank?

And like I said, there is no way I can always guarantee e-free fuel.  Also I can't guarantee that bike will be one that gets used the next season.  So, I drain carbs. 

#12

Our local E-free supply nearly always has water in it. The KLX hates it. This water is heavier than the fuel sharing the same container. If I can get it to sputter on the way home from filling, the water works its way out and only fuel is left. then it runs just fine, even months later. If I try to start it cold with H2O in there...nada. 

Strangely, the FI bikes don't seem to care at all. Maybe they're dual fuel. lol

#13

I don't think I would continue to use that E-free supply, 

#14
15 hours ago, tsmitty

What are everyones thoughts on using Sta-bil fuel stabilizer?

Years ago Motorcycle Consumer News did a 6 month scientific test of fuel stabilizers. By far the best rating went to Startron.

Switching from Sta-bil to Startron has proved to reduce issues with our fleet (now 70+) of MSF training bikes which sit for 3 months a year. It has also helped with the too many carbureted bikes in my garage, some of which see only 500-1k miles per year.

YRMV

#15

Winterization time has come for the MV....

[image: 20231029_111552_copy_2268x3024.thumb.jpg.7910446a64ff02b0411899b94b5036bb.jpg]

Drained the carbs, that's all

[image: 20231029_113912.thumb.jpg.7ac1ee19f83a4abcc97bc3942846a182.jpg]

No squatters allowed...  🙂

[image: 20231029_112432.thumb.jpg.7fc8e7961ff8e3373583cdbda8a0ebb6.jpg]

#16
13 hours ago, Captain 80s

I don't think I would continue to use that E-free supply, 

Until I can afford to make my own...it is what we have. E-free doesn't get used much, so moisture gets in. If I had a single bike, it wouldn't be an issue, but as they are...they can sit for a long time. 

#17
1 hour ago, slo1

Years ago Motorcycle Consumer News did a 6 month scientific test of fuel stabilizers. By far the best rating went to Startron.

Switching from Sta-bil to Startron has proved to reduce issues with our fleet (now 70+) of MSF training bikes which sit for 3 months a year. It has also helped with the too many carbureted bikes in my garage, some of which see only 500-1k miles per year.

YRMV

I'd recommend looking at multiple reviews, as most found it to be snake oil. What was that old oil additive from the 80s that turned out to kill engines? lol

[video: https://www.youtube-nocookie.com/embed/chsGBhB5g7o?feature=oembed]

You may also like Lucas and Seafoam products...which also seem to do nothing positive. 

#18

In my previous 2001 VFR800,  which had fuel injection,  just used any fuel stabilizer according to manufacturers directions. No issues. And on a side note, is it necessary to trickle charge the battery all winter?

#19

Wet or AGM, you'll be glad that you did. Li, no need, but no harm. 

#20

I use Stabil Marine grade, the bike usually starts on the first attempt after 4 months.

I only use it for the last 2 tank fill ups before winterizing to make sure, it is inthe carbs. And, yes, trickle charger used during storage

#21

The only "winterization" that I do is put the thermal liners into my jacket and pants. 

#22

The VFR800's have MMC bores, not Iron liners. It has SS piston rings. So no need to ever put oil in the bores. 
 

As for fuel, depends how long you leave it. I used to use fuel stab, but stopped a couple of years back after an accident meant I didn't use the VFR for a year. Reattached charged battery cycled fi a couple of times using kill switch then it started 2nd press of the button 👍

#23

put a sock [or plastic bags] in it.....the exhaust pipe end.

#24
bmart, 10/29/2023 at 7:16 AM

I'd recommend looking at multiple reviews, as most found it to be snake oil. What was that old oil additive from the 80s that turned out to kill engines? lol

You may also like Lucas and Seafoam products...which also seem to do nothing positive. 

That was mildly entertaining, and food for thought, but MCN did chemical analysis every 2 weeks for 6 months with Ethanol Free gas.

Any bike/car that sits for long periods of time should have Ethanol Free gas in it. My lawn mower likes E-0 better as well, the snow blower is stored with no fuel.

Climate will also play a role, as where I live the humidity level is often below 30% and sometimes below 10%. 

#25

Thanks...not everyone gets my humor. 🙂

From what I've read, ethanol starts to degrade in ~2 weeks. New vehicles seem okay with that for years, but carbs change everything. Real fuel starts to go bad in many years with degradation (from what I've read) after many years (2-5?). 

#26

To help mitigate the ethanol phase separation, best use Seafoam as your stabilzer, my opinion only, and it's always worked well for me.  Mostly it's naptha and isopropanol.  If the ethanol gets to it's saturation point (4.5%) with water, the isopropanol will dissipate it as it can handle many times more water than ethanol can.

#28

I would be very concerned about moisture unless it were environmentally controlled. 

#29

Been leaving my bike in the garage for several months with half a tank of E10 and not had any problems (yet). If there has been separation, I've not experienced evidence of it. Just saying......

Mind you I prefer riding it rather than looking at it, and riding it with full fat 95 (which is the best we get here in UK)!

#30

Esso E5 Synergy 99 is actually 100% petrol, the E5 sticker is required to inform you that it may contain up to 5% ethanol but in reality it’s ethanol free

#31
3 hours ago, Thumbs

Esso E5 Synergy 99 is actually 100% petrol, the E5 sticker is required to inform you that it may contain up to 5% ethanol but in reality it’s ethanol free

That's an interesting one Thumbs, appears that with a couple of independent tests done it only achieved 93ron, apparently without the Ethanol. Sounds like Esso doesn't change the formulation to compensate for the absence of Ethanol. Customers needing say at least 95ron or higher for a high performance vehicle are being mislead at the risk of poor performance or possible engine damage! 

Also interesting in the same test Shell V-Power rated at 99ron achieved 101ron and according to the UK requirements may have up to 5% Ethanol.

Fortunately, it won't worry a VFR800 it's happy on 91ron. I'd still avoid Ethanol if it's possible, as always YMMV.

End of thread · 31 posts recovered Wayback Machine snapshot 15 Aug 2024