Blue Gauges For Less

I've been thinking about switching my gauges over to blue for a long time and was going to send them in to BlueGauges.com, but the cost was too much. They charge $70, plus you have to pay to ship it to them. I figure about $80 total. I wanted a cheaper option and had done some searching last year and found a how-to at a Netherlands VFR site, here. I ran it through a translator and got a reasonable idea of how to do it, but I could not find anywhere I could buy less than 100 of the LED's he used. Well, last week I found them available at Digi-key, model HSMN-A100-P00J1, Digikey part #516-1464-1-ND. It requires 15, I bought 20 for $20 with shipping.

Following are the steps I took to modify my own gauges. There is certainly risk involved, if you fry the circuit board, you are out whatever the cost is - which is probably a lot! :o You will need the LED's, a 15 or 20-watt soldering iron with a small tip, a desoldering bulb, a steady hand, good eyes, and some experience soldering. Don't tackle it if you aren't comfortable doing it.

LED's
Here are the LED's as I received them from Digi-Key (minus the one's I used)
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Removing Meter Panels
Start by removing the windscreen and left and right meter panels. I could never figure out how to remove these before so it took me awhile. Here are a few pictures detailing how they attach.

Left meter panel pin - view from the top
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Left meter panel top
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Left meter panel bottom
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Left meter panel removed
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Once you have the left and right meter panels out of the way, you can remove the center meter panel (dashboard under the windscreen). Be careful pulling the center meter panel bosses out of the rubber grommets under the instrument cluster - they are a bitch.

Removing Instrument Cluster
When you remove the center meter panel, you gain access to the back of the instrument cluster.

Back of cluster
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There are three screws holding it in place. The top two can be reached with a standard phillips screwdriver, the last one on the bottom requires an offset screwdriver(see below). You will also need to remove the three screws holding the air-temperature sensor connection and wire. The two screws at the connection have no polarity, they can be attached either way.

One last screw
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Offset (doorknob) screwdriver
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Cluster Out
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Opening the instrument cluster
Now that the cluster is out, open it up but make sure you discharge all static electricity.

Cluster open
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Circuit board back
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Removing the tachometer needle
Here is the part where I was really squeezing my cheeks. It took me 45 minutes to get the needle off because I thought I was going to break it. I didn't and hopefully you won't either. The process is pretty simple. Put some tape on either side of the needle so you don't muck it up and pry it off with a screwdriver on each side. It is a plastic needle pressed on to a metal pin. If you pop the black cover off, it is no big deal. It is just a counter-weight that snaps on.

Note: Leave the needle pointed roughly at 0 when you remove it.

Prying needle off (black counter-weight in place)
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Prying needle off (black counter-weight removed)
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Needle Removed
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Removing tach
Now that the needle is off, the tachometer face needs to be removed. There are just two screws holding it on.

Two screws to remove
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Start Soldering
At this point you are almost ready to start soldering. There are 8 screws holding the LCD panels in place that need to be removed and all of the pins have to be de-soldered. You need to remove the LCD panels to get to the LED's underneath. There are 15 LED's on the board to replace. Don't replace the two LED's in the center of the board. They are red and light up the tach needle. Any other color probably wouldn't light up the tach needle well.

The polarity of the LED's is important. Each LED has a notch in the corner that needs to be lined up with the triangle noted on the circuit board.

Here are several pictures detailing the circuit board to give you an idea of what you are in for.

Ready to start soldering
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Small LED's
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Pins to desolder
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More pins to desolder
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Putting it back together
Assembly is the reverse of installation with the exception of the tach. Lightly press the needle back on (with the counterweight installed) pointed at 0. Push it up past the halfway mark, the needle will move to the right on it's own. It should stop at the very end of the scale - 13750 I think. If it is not pull it off and set it at the end of the scale. There is a little bit of play if you fiddle with the needle so keep tinkering with it until it is close. Once you are satisfied, push the needle on but NOT TOO FAR...I did and it took me a few to get the needle back off. Just push it on until there is a small gap remaining under the needle.

The Finished Product
After three hours of soldering, it was done. The pictures really don't do it justice. The blue is a much deeper blue than my camera would catch. It is fairly bright but not too distracting - I am sure I notice it more since it is different than I am used to. The tachometer appears to be right on the money. It may have changed by a small percentage but I cannot tell. Those more anal may wish to calibrate it on the bike with an external tach but I couldn't figure out how to hook mine up to the bike and said to hell with it. Best of luck if anyone else decides to do it. :beer:

Done with no tach installed
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Very Very Blue Indeed
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So much better than stock. :salesman:
Stock - yuck
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**Update 01/04/07**
The gauges are still working great. I have put 8000 miles on the bike since the mod and can say with confidence now the tach is still accurate and the gauges are not too distracting. I would definitely do it again.

Wow..I'm impressed...You have definitely gotten my attention. It seems you have done a bit of research on the modification... I have a 5th gen '99... I assume the same LEDs will work on my board... :huh: I have never had to take my board out and look at it. Do you know if there are any significant differences b/t the 5th and 6th gen boards and LEDs??

:thumbsup: Good Job....

Nice Mod. Easy to follow and great pics. I'm sure a lot of us will be changing our stock I.P. lights for blue.

But if any VFRD riders are not electronically gifted then we can send the panel to you for $50 and you'll hook us up?

1) Veeeeeeeeeeeeery impressed. Nice work!

2) No way in hell am I attempting that. I would screw that up so bad it's not funny. hehe. I tried to install a PS1 mod chip once and gave up when I saw how small the solder points were. Of course, my solder skills suck. :D

VolatileVFR, on May 16 2005, 09:17 AM, said:

Wow..I'm impressed...You have definitely gotten my attention.  It seems you have done a bit of research on the modification... I have a 5th gen '99... I assume the same LEDs will work on my board... :huh:   I have never had to take my board out and look at it.  Do you know if there are any significant differences b/t the 5th and 6th gen boards and LEDs??

:thumbsup: Good Job....
<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I think the 5th Gens are much easier - I believe they have a standard bulb that can be swapped out for a plug-in LED bulb. But....I could be wrong. :unsure:

VolatileVFR, on May 16 2005, 02:17 AM, said:

Do you know if there are any significant differences b/t the 5th and 6th gen boards and LEDs??

The 5th Gens use bulbs instead of LEDs. They are type 194 blubs, you can find LED replacements at the below site:

http://www.superbrig...ds.com/1157.htm

VFR_FLA, on May 16 2005, 12:54 PM, said:

Nice Mod. Easy to follow and great pics. I'm sure a lot of us will be changing our stock I.P. lights for blue.
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Thanks, it was definitely worth the time. It is a cool color, an even deeper blue than the pics.

VFR_FLA, on May 16 2005, 12:54 PM, said:

But if any VFRD riders are not electronically gifted then we can send the panel to you for $50 and you'll hook us up?
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No, but they can send it to BlueGauges.com. :thumbsup:

ScottyDo - Coooool upgrade! You've got guts, I give ya that! :thumbsup:

Just thinking about the cost of that board gives me shivers :unsure:
I'm with VFR_FLA - next winter you'll have a mailbox full of circuit boards from fellow VFRDers!

Anyone swapped out 1157 blue's on their 5th gen? What were the results like?

dude, on May 16 2005, 08:55 AM, said:

Anyone swapped out 1157 blue's on their 5th gen? What were the results like?
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They are a little dimmer than stock, but I haven't ridden it at night, just looked at it in the dark garage.

FANTASTIC! Hats off, to you, sir. I don't suppose, while you had it apart, you investigated what pin, (color wire), has the power lead for the leds?????

SCOTTY-Blue-gages.com????

I had mine done by a friend in Scotland. I wouldn't tackle that myself as I wouldn't like to buy a replacement cluster which cost almost ?1000 here (almost $2k American).

Hi All

Does anyone know if the LCD screen in the 5th generation cluster is also lit by bulbs, or is it LED's.

Mine is fairly dim, and if its a matter of replacing bulbs it would be an easy fix.
The dials are lit fine, just the LCD is dim at night

Thanks
Neil

Sweet! I was going to attempt this over the summer, but I ended up getting rid of the VFR...

Anyway, a few words of advice incase anyone else wants to attempt this:
1) Do the work on a static-safe surface in a room without carpet flooring. I would recommend getting a cheap static mat and a wrist strap from a computer store. ESD can destroy the gauge cluster...A new one is ~$500.

2) Use a decent quality pencil-type soldering iron with a clean tip. Those giant soldering guns are awkward to use on SMT devices. If you have access to a Metcal or Pace soldering station, use that.

3) Rosin flux will increase the quality of your joints and prevent vibration-related joint failure. DO NOT, under any circumstances, use solder or flux meant for copper pipe. These products contain organic acids and will destroy the PCB.

4) Solder wick is superior to a solder-bulb for desoldering existing joints. Press the wick into the joint with the iron tip. When the solder melts, it will be drawn off the joint.

5) Double check the pin orientation of the new diode before soldering it down...They only work one way.

6) Those goofy looking magnifying hobby glasses help.

Here's a quick guide to removing and replacing a 4-pin SMT diode:
1) Using wick and rosin, remove as much solder as possible from all four pins.
2) Heat both pins on a single side while applying gentle prying pressure to the underside of the package. Use a small pointy tool like a dental pick or tweezers. When the joints are hot, that side will pop loose. DO NOT pry against adjacent components!
3) Heat the other two pins and pop that side free.
4) Clean all the remaining solder off the pads with wick and rosin.
5) Clean the rosin residue off with 99% Isopropyl alcohol.
6) Apply a tiny bit of rosin to the pads, and set the new LED down, observing polarity.
7) Tack one pin, press the package lightly against the PCB, then solder the other three pins. When that's done, fully solder the pin you tacked. Use the solder sparingly. You don't want a big blob...Just enough to form a little fillet on the sides and toe of the pad. Also, the solder joints should be shiny. If they are dull, you have a cold joint. Cold joints will fail...Fix any that you find.
8) Lather, rinse, repeat.

An experienced solder tech can change an LED like this in under 30 seconds. It'll probably take you a bit longer. :P

redrover, on May 16 2005, 11:48 AM, said:

Does anyone know if the LCD screen in the 5th generation cluster is also lit by bulbs, or is it LED's.
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Bulbs, two of them. Three more for the dials.

Rivcyko, on May 16 2005, 05:55 PM, said:

FANTASTIC! Hats off, to you, sir. I don't suppose, while you had it apart, you investigated what pin, (color wire), has the power lead for the leds?????

      SCOTTY-Blue-gages.com????
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It is pin 16, but I am not sure what color wire that corresponds to. I was thinking of your post when I had it apart but I couldn't figure if the LED's and LCD's shared power, or the resistance. :unsure: Here is a close-up of the pins showing the connection. Hope that helps.

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Close-up of pins on Instrument Panel circuit board

Thank you, Scotty!

I'll get my friend's multi-meter, and run it through the ringer. Not too bright a bulb, but I figure, if it is in link with the display, I can't do any damage to it, tinkering. (Because the display is low voltage also.)

Thanx for the post, and for thinking of me. LOL!

Riv.

So, what's the word on blue guage mods for Gen 3 1990-1993?

Fantastic! Great mod

And the blue is not too bright or distracting while riding at night??

<<would hate to do it then find out its too bright>>

Thanks

Absolutely wonderful job Scotty!

I spent about 4 hours this morning, following your great instructions, and ended up with an amazing -and cheap- mod. Funny thing about this mod is changing the LED's is actually the easiest part of the whole process.

Thanks A Million

BoulderGeek, on May 16 2005, 04:38 PM, said:

So, what's the word on blue guage mods for Gen 3 1990-1993?
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I would almost guarantee that they are standard incandescent bulbs. Probably a #194 wedge base.

You can scroll back up and look for the superbrightled.com link and get LED replacements with a #194 wedge base to go on your early Viffer.

veefer800canuck, on Aug 13 2005, 02:35 PM, said:

I would almost guarantee that they are standard incandescent bulbs. Probably a #194 wedge base.

You can scroll back up and look for the superbrightled.com link and get LED replacements with a #194 wedge base to go on your early Viffer.
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You're my freaking hero, Veefer!

I'll look into that.

:lurk:

moose76, on May 16 2005, 08:12 AM, said:

The 5th Gens use bulbs instead of LEDs.  They are type 194 bulbs,  you can find LED replacements at the below site:

http://www.superbrig...ds.com/1157.htm
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My cheap blue coloured incandescent 194 bulbs sourced from the local auto parts store were pretty dang dim at night, so I just sprung for the LED's from the above website. I got the wide angle ones as I remember reading elsewhere that somebody did this with regular LEDs and got a "spotlight" effect on their gauge faces everywhere there was an LED but poor lighting elsewhere on the gauge face.

Hopefully the wide angle LED's cure this right up. :thumbsup:

BoulderGeek, on Aug 13 2005, 08:42 AM, said:

You're my freaking hero, Veefer!

I'll look into that.

:lurk:
<{POST_SNAPBACK}>


Hey, you're welcome. But if I were you, I'd confirm the type and quantity needed first. Never can tell! :joystick:

I am scared of soldering. And soldiering, come to think about it. ;) I am always amazed at how handy members of this site are. :thumbsup:

How do you guys think red LED's would look? I've seen this in the Audi cars versus the blue in the VW cars. Both look good and apparently, per the tech at Digi-Key, the red LED's have a higher intensity/brightness level.

I've ordered both and if I don't like it I'll put the blue in. But i'm gonna try the blue in the middle and the red on the sides. Photo below.

I just love red though!

Mac

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Red LED's on gauges...

I did it. Bought the lights from Digi Key, got some new solder and a finer soldering needle for my handheld soldering gun, and pulled out the tools.

With patience, a little manual labor and finesse and i completed it in about 3 hours. Not that bad and this is the first time I've ever soldered something and desoldered something so damn small.

I did Red on the two outside gauges and Blue for the tachometer. I will post photos later this evening.

Thanks for the great instructions for everything from start to finish!! :thumbsup:

Cheers,
Mac

Compliments to ScottyDo for the wonderful instructions. I finished over the weekend and per my earlier request, here it is, my rendition of my own colorful gauge cluster. It's wonderful and make a significant difference. I'd love your comments.


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Red & Blue Gauges

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IMG_0505.JPG

macliver, on Aug 24 2005, 04:55 AM, said:

Compliments to ScottyDo for the wonderful instructions.  I finished over the weekend and per my earlier request, here it is, my rendition of my own colorful gauge cluster.  It's wonderful and make a significant difference.  I'd love your comments.

Great! Now the hard part is choosing a color scheme! Can anyone tell me if I am correct in assuming that for a 5th gen, all I need is 7 #194 "wide angle" replacement bulbs?

macliver, on Aug 24 2005, 04:55 AM, said:

Compliments to ScottyDo for the wonderful instructions.  I finished over the weekend and per my earlier request, here it is, my rendition of my own colorful gauge cluster.  It's wonderful and make a significant difference.  I'd love your comments.

Looks sweet! :thumbsup: I'm glad my destructions helped. :joystick:

[image: View Post]veefer800canuck, on Aug 13 2005, 02:49 PM, said:

My cheap blue coloured incandescent 194 bulbs sourced from the local auto parts store were pretty dang dim at night, so I just sprung for the LED's from the above website. I got the wide angle ones as I remember reading elsewhere that somebody did this with regular LEDs and got a "spotlight" effect on their gauge faces everywhere there was an LED but poor lighting elsewhere on the gauge face.

Hopefully the wide angle LED's cure this right up. :thumbsup:

Perusing this thread and never noticed the reply that it actually did clear things up...what was the verdict? :)

[image: View Post]JoeAsheville, on Jul 15 2006, 08:42 AM, said:

Perusing this thread and never noticed the reply that it actually did clear things up...what was the verdict? :)


Yes, the LED's were the answer. The gauges are not dim any longer, but the needles are still kinda purplish.

No problems with that though.

See my thread on the subject here:

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.p...c=20337&hl=

i,m a pretty tec capable but time starved so i sent mine to the expert ,now i,m free to do other fun things to everything else!!! :P

for those that dont have the time ,or skills i highly recommend bluegauges to them scott hooked me up and did a outstanding job with a quick turnaround .

How delicate is the soldering?

Also, I can't seem to get my meter panel off... I'm pulling pretty hard, but don't wan to break it. How do the grommets work?

I'm glad this popped back up, I'm going to tear into my 750F gauges soon! :fing02:

5th Gen is sooo much easier. 194 LED wedge bulbs, got mine for $17aud delivered for 8. You only need 5.

Check this out from fleabay, its where I bought mine from:
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...em=140222065932


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IMG_8389.jpg

My '83 750 uses bulbs for everything... I have some homework to do, as I want to replace all of them with different colored LEDs, that is to say, that currently all the bulbs are clear/white, and they light colored pieces of plastic.

What I'd like to do is, for example, the high beam and neutral are blue and green, replace the clear bulbs with a blue and a green LED... I think Veefer800canuck had found some leds the fit the bulb socket for his 5th gen, I'll have to look his thread up again...

[image: View Post]NYMBYSS, on Jan 21 2007, 11:18 AM, said:

for those that dont have the time ,or skills i highly recommend bluegauges to them scott hooked me up and did a outstanding job with a quick turnaround .

:fing02: :+1: :fing02: On Scott @ Blueguages. I went to see him a while ago and let alone he offered to receive my CRV trailer hitch for me, we installed it on his front lawn, and while we went out to have lunch, he did the led thing and it was ready when we came back!
Friendly and A1 integrity... based on this alone, I'd highly recommend his services. He's done lots of our members a quality job.
DIY is great but, I count myself among the 'mechanically declined' on this site. I also bought a speedo healer from him too.
I felt it was the least I could do for someone who never even met me to receive an accessory for my vehicle.
Ps I LOVE the end result!
Will post pics sometime.... :rolleyes:
Greg

Here is a pic of my 1996 with the Blue 5 led 194 bulbs. The other bulbs were replaced with single led wide angle bulbs. I find them much eaiser to read at a glace. I dont notice any diminished night vision, however the bikes after the fourth gen have much more light shining back at the rider from the LED panels.
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leds03.jpg

Wow. I saw a bike that had the same set up and it inspired me to do my own as well. I brought up this topic several months back and started a forum on this topic. The majority of the coments were negative. I wanted to do the mod myself and everyone who replied said that blue leds are not good for night riding and red is better. Red leds don't kill your night vision etc etc etc. How are the blue leds on your eyes at night? Have you had any problems seeing your gauges? You made we want to try this after seeing your install. Great job. :fing02: