The inverted-tip causes the LEDs to emit a broad beam which avoids "spotlighting" the gauge face near where each bulb is located.
Installation is exactly the same as replacing the stock incandescent bulbs, see your service manual if unsure.
Only 1 caveat and that is the bulbs are polarized, so they only work when installed in one direction (+/-). I put mine in with the ignition on, and the garage semi-dark so I could tell if each individual bulb lit up. There were a couple I had to turn the base 180' to get them to light, easy as cake.
Oh, and I might mention that I had previously tried some #194 incandescent bulbs from the local auto store that were painted blue (from the factory) and they were very dim.
Even in the darkest night, the gauge faces were too dim to be immediately readable, but the LED's are a whole 'nother story! tongue.gif
veefer800canuck, Apr 11 2006, 09:40 PMOh, and I might mention that I had previously tried some #194 incandescent bulbs from the local auto store that were painted blue (from the factory) and they were very dim.
Even in the darkest night, the gauge faces were too dim to be immediately readable, but the LED's are a whole 'nother story! tongue.gif
That looks great ! I think I know what my next mods will be: LED's and the horns.
Looks very nice. Might do that myself. Thanks for the photos!
How much did each cost? On the following product page, the top three all appear similar, with prices of 0.89, 0.79, and 1.49; just wondering exactly which ones you got.
pseal, Apr 12 2006, 08:45 AMHow much did each cost? On the following product page, the top three all appear similar, with prices of 0.89, 0.79, and 1.49; just wondering exactly which ones you got.
ratfink, Apr 12 2006, 10:14 AMI did that to mine a couple of years ago, but I can't see my needle worth a crap. Let me know if you figure out a solution.
I have no problem with seeing mine, it is kinda purpleish in color, but can see it fine.
sily_rabit, Apr 12 2006, 05:04 AMThanks for the picture. Any problem seeing the needles with these leds? In the picture is looks like they aren't lit up.
ratfink, Apr 12 2006 @ 10:14 AMI did that to mine a couple of years ago, but I can't see my needle worth a crap. Let me know if you figure out a solution.
chris2992, Apr 12 2006, 11:08 AMI have no problem with seeing mine, it is kinda purpleish in color, but can see it fine.
+1.gif +1.gif +1.gif to Chris' reply.
They're kinda purple but they are more noticeable than in the picture. The camera is a bit stingy with the actual look of the needles. They're not bright orange as stock, but still quite legible at night, purple they are, yes.
pseal, Apr 12 2006, 09:45 AMHow much did each cost? On the following product page, the top three all appear similar, with prices of 0.89, 0.79, and 1.49; just wondering exactly which ones you got.
D'oh. Dumb me; the first two are red and amber only.
Lobster, Apr 12 2006, 12:48 PMSorry, but I'm an idiot. I can't figure out which ones you bought. Would you please be so kind as to post the part number(s)?
I got these puppies and they're quite bright even though they only have 1 LED in them. I really like the wide angle tip, it illuminates the gauge face evenly:
Yes I have the 4 led ones, they aren't too bright, but emit an even light. Our pictures look almost identical, mine is a bit brighter, but that is likely the camera and I was in a pitch black garage.
chris2992, Apr 12 2006, 02:24 PMYes I have the 4 led ones, they aren't too bright, but emit an even light. Our pictures look almost identical, mine is a bit brighter, but that is likely the camera and I was in a pitch black garage.
Oh yeah, well mine's faster 'cuz my speedometer says 280! tongue.gif
teleskier, Apr 12 2006, 03:26 PMWould these bulbs be called "combination meter bulbs" in the manual on page 19-9?
I take it that removal of the front cowl etc. is required to do this?
On page 19-9 it shows a removed bulb in the lower pic. Are those the ones you are talking about replacing?
No, on page 19-9 those would be the turnsignal indicator bulbs as shown.
Look on page 19-11 and in the top pic, it shows the backside of the meter panel. The top two bulbs are the turnsignal indicators, the bottom 4 (real close together) are the idiot warning lights. It's the "other" 5 that light up the gauges.
Of course, there's nothing to stop you from changing the 6 (total) indicator and idiot lights to LEDs, but since they shine through coloured lenses, you would probably want to use white LEDs for them and blue/red whatever colour you prefer for the gauge faces.
There are 3-10mm nuts that hold the instrument cluster to the upper fairing stay. I removed these and pulled the cluster loose to facilitate changing the bulbs more easily.
veefer800canuck, Apr 12 2006, 05:57 PMNo, on page 19-9 those would be the turnsignal indicator bulbs as shown.
Look on page 19-11 and in the top pic, it shows the backside of the meter panel. The top two bulbs are the turnsignal indicators, the bottom 4 (real close together) are the idiot warning lights. It's the "other" 5 that light up the gauges. Of course, there's nothing to stop you from changing the 6 (total) indicator and idiot lights to LEDs, but since they shine through coloured lenses, you would probably want to use white LEDs for them and blue/red whatever colour you prefer for the gauge faces. There are 3-10mm nuts that hold the instrument cluster to the upper fairing stay. I removed these and pulled the cluster loose to facilitate changing the bulbs more easily.
And don't put the blue LEDs in the turn signal holes. With the amber lense it turns green, and you CANNOT see it in daylight. You think it is a pain taking the front cowl off once? Put them in the signals, and you get to take it off twice.
chris2992, Apr 12 2006, 04:24 PMYes I have the 4 led ones, they aren't too bright, but emit an even light. Our pictures look almost identical, mine is a bit brighter, but that is likely the camera and I was in a pitch black garage.
Ok maybe another dumb question unsure.gif , im getting ready to order the bulbs, how many do i need?
im going to order both colors to see what the red look like..
6, I orders 7 for a spare and used it as one of the 6 didn't work. But after Veefers post on polarity, I'm thinking that I didn't turn the bulb around and that could have been the problem.
chris2992, Apr 13 2006, 10:05 AM6, I orders 7 for a spare and used it as one of the 6 didn't work. But after Veefers post on polarity, I'm thinking that I didn't turn the bulb around and that could have been the problem.
Thanks Chris, i will order 6 of each color (Red / Blue) and check them out...
Maybe I am wrong, but I am almost confident that there were 2 bulbs for each display (tach, speedo and LCD). Fuzzily recalling that maybe the tach and the speedo shared a bulb in the middle?? Veefer??
from ur pix it shows tat ur gauges all shown in KMH, u got it changed or its a stock gauge?? i would like to have mine in KMH n not MPH....
PS: oso anywea i can get a service manual for my 5th gen?? i would like to try out the LED mods too...
Hi, welcome to the forum.
The gauges are stock, we in Canada have embraced the Metric system.
You might find a set of used Metric gauges on EBAY, good luck!
Also, the service manual can be found in the Downloads section: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.p...um=10&st=10
thx alot... mayb i'll juz hav to get use to the miles system odometer n tripmeter... coz at least the consolation i hav is my speedo is in KMH... tis is important to prevent me from gettin the speeding tix... :fing02:
oh ya, and also the prev owner din teach me how to reset the tripmeter... any gd souls out there to enlighten me?
loufuoh ya, and also the prev owner din teach me how to reset the tripmeter... any gd souls out there to enlighten me?
Press and hold the TRIP button on the RH side of the dash to reset.
Pressing the TRIP button for only a moment switches between A and B tripmeters, but a long press resets whichever is currently on display, but not the other one.
veefer800canuckPress and hold the TRIP button on the RH side of the dash to reset.
Pressing the TRIP button for only a moment switches between A and B tripmeters, but a long press resets whichever is currently on display, but not the other one.
thk you so much.. i guessed so too, but it juz didnt reset when i did a long press.. mayb my button is not working...
veefer800canuckThe inverted-tip causes the LEDs to emit a broad beam which avoids "spotlighting" the gauge face near where each bulb is located.
I don't think you would have any bright spots anyway. Interesting that if you look at the spec, you'll see the bulbs you chose have the narrowest beam pattern of all possible configurations. Only 32 degrees. I was more interested in the colour. I've just ordered some LEDs for my RWB 6th gen, and I ordered 2 different sets to compare colour and brightness. I'm planning on cluging up a dimmer when I do the surgery.
Of course, I'll do a write up with pics for anyone who's interested.
I ordered white LED replacements for my dash today, I dont care about changing the color I just wanted to save a few watts and help extend the life of my stator, ordered the mini ones too for the nuetral, highbeem, fi lights too, I ordered an extra of each type in case I get bad ones
6 | WLED-x4 LED bulb | $ 2.59 |
90 Degree White WLED-W4-x 1.00 - DASH BACKLIGHTING
I ordered white LED replacements for my dash today, I dont care about changing the color I just wanted to save a few watts and help extend the life of my stator, ordered the mini ones too for the nuetral, highbeem, fi lights too, I ordered an extra of each type in case I get bad ones
6 | WLED-x4 LED bulb | $ 2.59 |
90 Degree White WLED-W4-x 1.00 - DASH BACKLIGHTING
If a bulb is blown its resistance is infinite high? How can low impedence give you a blown indication? Do you mean the opposite? They probably have a 470 ohm reisister in there. I have been changing these darned things out seems like twice a year now, LEDs and 100,000 hours sounds much better to me. IF THE FI LIGHT IS BLOWN how does the ECM deal with that, is this just speculation? Dont tell me the fi light comes on HEH :cheerleader:
If a bulb is blown its resistance is infinite high? How can low impedence give you a blown indication? Do you mean the opposite? They probably have a 470 ohm reisister in there. I have been changing these darned things out seems like twice a year now, LEDs and 100,000 hours sounds much better to me. IF THE FI LIGHT IS BLOWN how does the ECM deal with that, is this just speculation? Dont tell me the fi light comes on HEH :cheerleader:
You are right - its the other way around...brain :biggrin: not thinking straight in the heat of excitement :goofy:
Just a speculation - let me know if it works for you
If a bulb is blown its resistance is infinite high? How can low impedence give you a blown indication? Do you mean the opposite? They probably have a 470 ohm reisister in there. I have been changing these darned things out seems like twice a year now, LEDs and 100,000 hours sounds much better to me. IF THE FI LIGHT IS BLOWN how does the ECM deal with that, is this just speculation? Dont tell me the fi light comes on HEH +1.gif
You are right - its the other way around...brain :beatdeadhorse: not thinking straight in the heat of excitement :cheerleader:
Just a speculation - let me know if it works for you
I could see the fi light error pulses comming in at a different pace, or issues with that perhaps? I will try it, they do match the impedence with the led bulbs to the OEM bulbs with a built in resister, its right there in the photo.
Late to the party on this one, but the 2000-2001 VFRs had the VFR emblem on the tach as standard.
I've been looking for one for quite awhile, but every one that comes up on EBAY is worth an arm and a leg.
I did the same thing when I built my bike, Rob. I loved the look of the later gauges (and had to have that little VFR logo) and went through multiple clusters on ebay before I had the proper combination (it seemed like I could only find metric units for some reason). I wonder how many other '98-'99 owners have updated to the newer gauges?
chris29926, I orders 7 for a spare and used it as one of the 6 didn't work. But after Veefers post on polarity, I'm thinking that I didn't turn the bulb around and that could have been the problem.
Thanks Chris, i will order 6 of each color (Red / Blue) and check them out...
thanks
Michael
I went with Red just to be something other then blue
You could try red, since the needles are red. The red plastic filters out all the colors except red if you are using incandescent bulbs. By using blue LEDs there is no red to come through. That's my understanding of it anyway. That's why you should use red LEDs for red lenses, amber for amber, etc.
You could try red, since the needles are red. The red plastic filters out all the colors except red if you are using incandescent bulbs. By using blue LEDs there is no red to come through. That's my understanding of it anyway. That's why you should use red LEDs for red lenses, amber for amber, etc.
+1
LEDs have very narrow wavelengths of emitted light. Even the white LEDs don't have a lot of red in them so you should use the red LEDs through red lens otherwise they will be dimmer. White LEDs are a mixture of a few wavelengths that the eyes perceive as white but they don't cover the full spectrum. There's more available red light to reflect off a red needle using a red LED so it should stand out more... at least the physics makes sense...
Amber LED on a red needle might make the needle look black because there is little or no red wavelength to be reflected... kinda like how tropical fish lose there color the deeper you go and the other wavelengths of light are filtered out by the water... shine a light on them with the right wavelengths and the colors pop
Quote from TheLEDLight.com, "...using colored LEDs to illuminate similarly colored lenses produces better visibility and overall appearance."
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