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Wolf Exhaust, 5th Gen

44 posts Started 19 Dec 2006 Last recovered post 6 Sep 2007 Wayback Machine snapshot 17 Sep 2019

#1

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Here's some pics. I picked up the Wolf pipe a few weeks ago on eBay, without the underseat tray which I had to make from scratch.

I like the idea on the ceramic coated aluminum tray. I still have a roll of carbon and may try using my aluminum tray as a template to make one from CF once the temps warm up. Heat management is the real problem with this set up, I'm thinking a thin aluminum or carbon heat shield between the pipe and tray/battery box may be needed.

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As Jim mentioned below we're working through some details to get the Wolf pipes duplicated. it's going to be at least a few more weeks but hoping to have more info soon, holidays put everything on hold.

Happy new year! :biggrin:

Edited December 12, 2007 by HispanicSlammer
#2

Nice work mate, and some nice bits to go up front!

So, what have you done with the rear shock? Anything? I can vouch for an Ohlins to match the RC51 front smile.gif

#3

WOLF WOLF nice

AB look at pic there is a remote res for the rear shock so looks like that's been done :biggrin:

#4

oh yeah, so there is, a nice swedish bit wink.gif

#5

Cool, nice job on the undertray.

Mine will look a lot better after it's been ceramic coated.

[image: 100_4321.jpg]

Looks like you moved the ECU to the RH side of the bike.

I might have to see if I have room for that.

#6
veefer800canuckCool, nice job on the undertray.

Mine will look a lot better after it's been ceramic coated.

Looks like you moved the ECU to the RH side of the bike.

I might have to see if I have room for that.

Thanks, I was inspired by your project to go buy a riveter and on adding the side panels. The tray itself is the basic shape and mount points from the Wolf kit.

I didn't have room left to fit the ECU under the seat and there's really no where to mount it on the left that I saw. The upside is I do have enough room now to get the tool and flat kits under the seat.

Mike

#7

Mike

Great job on the tray. Well done :biggrin:

#9

Beautiful work. I'm a little concerned about your seat cowl cracking without the support of the two posts with grommets back by the lights. In the photos it doesn't look like there's anything there for support (ala Wolf). Did you see what veefer800canuck did to address the problem? It should be easy to do on yours too.

Congrats on a sweet setup! :biggrin:

#10
magellanBeautiful work. I'm a little concerned about your seat cowl cracking without the support of the two posts with grommets back by the lights. In the photos it doesn't look like there's anything there for support (ala Wolf). Did you see what veefer800canuck did to address the problem? It should be easy to do on yours too.

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#11

Bitchin, bitchin, bitchin work...that looks freaking awesome...how does it sound? I have a D&D on mine which I love. Any chance you would be able to compare the sound for me? Nah, forget it...I'll be buying more formula soon and not new pipes...

Anyway, gotta give you some credit. It looks killer.

#12

vfrcapn, Rob - will the metal undertray make it noisy from the point of view of resonance and gravel and other objects hitting it? I guess if that's the case, you could coat it with say, that bedliner used for trucks etc., or something similar?

We likessss cussstom thingies, we doessss!! :biggrin:

Edited December 19, 2006 by enzed_viffer
#13

Did you ever take them to a exhaust shop to get a carbon copy made ? I thought there was some discussion at one time of you possibly selling knock off kits.

I am inline for one if you do.

#14
Flash and FlareDid you ever take them to a exhaust shop to get a carbon copy made ? I thought there was some discussion at one time of you possibly selling knock off kits.

I am inline for one if you do.

same here :thumbsup:

#15

Cpn has made contact with a local fabricator and he is trying to see if they can be made out of stainless.

Also to be considered is the outlet diameter. Rob's Devil cans measured approximately 1 5/8" and the Wolf's are at 2".

I'm checking into using dual Laser Xtreme cans for the underseat application. I'm working on the overall dimensions to pass on to Cpn'.

The Wolf's pipes (2 piece) are chromed. Cpn is working on a single pipe application. One other consideration is the diameter of the inlet at the collector. I like Staintunes' application and I'm hoping Cpn is able to match that.

Cpn has been extremely thoughtful and considerate for those of us itching to grab a set. :thumbsup:

Hopefully after the holidays have settled down we will be able to inundate Cpn with mail.....

Jim

#17
enzed_viffervfrcapn, Rob - will the metal undertray make it noisy from the point of view of resonance and gravel and other objects hitting it? I guess if that's the case, you could coat it with say, that bedliner used for trucks etc., or something similar?

We likessss cussstom thingies, we doessss!! :rolleyes:

I haven't noticed any vibrations or the like from the undertray or exhaust. Mine is very securely fastened with a ton of rivets, plus I just hat it all welded together into one unit so it's not going anywhere soon.

There is a little more heat under the seat but it's only noticeable when stopped in traffic during hot weather. Once underway, it's not noticeable at all.

Plus getting the whole works coated in black ceramic should help out some.

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#18
Flash and FlareI thought there was some discussion at one time (about) knock off kits.

veefer is supposed to be bringing his exhaust to the bike show Jan. 12th and I've already talked to the original fabricator about making copies. Once he takes some measurements, gives me a price and I can be certain it will bolt up without difficulty I will post up.

#19
SAFE-T
Flash and FlareI thought there was some discussion at one time (about) knock off kits.

veefer is supposed to be bringing his exhaust to the bike show Jan. 12th and I've already talked to the original fabricator about making copies. Once he takes some measurements, gives me a price and I can be certain it will bolt up without difficulty I will post up.

This is outstanding news ! what a way to start 2007 off with the hopes of getting dual or even single undertail exhaust for our 5th Gen's

F&F

#20

Also if I had to vote on longer narrow (arrow or tunes) cans or larger shorter(micron or TB's) I would opt for the later larger shorter. Love the sound of the larger vs. the narrow zippy sounding.

But hey thats just me, I guess beggars can't be picky.

Any chance of using our own single side mount under the seat ????

#21
Flash and FlareAlso if I had to vote on longer narrow (arrow or tunes) cans or larger shorter(micron or TB's) I would opt for the later larger shorter. Love the sound of the larger vs. the narrow zippy sounding.

But hey thats just me, I guess beggars can't be picky.

Any chance of using our own single side mount under the seat ????

You might have issues with the larger diameter cans fitting properly, clearance issues with the rear tire/suspension being the fly in the ointment.

WOLF themselves began fitting smaller diameter cans later in their production run.

DEVIL USA told me they could supply two of their shotgun style cans with a random connector pipe for (some amount) less than buying a purpose-built system for a specific model.

They further said that the newer shotgun style cans have a nicer CF finish/weave than the earlier ones which is what I have.

But since I got mine on a blowout deal to get them the heck out of the dealership (hanging on the wall for years and years) I didn't take DEVIL up on their offer.

The Devil shotgun Y-pipe I never used, I EBAY'd it. Was for a CBR929/954 as illustrated here:

[image: db_900_CBR__Dble_Tuning9.jpg]

I also thought about using two oval cans, laying horizontally but there wasn't enough room left to right for them to fit. At least not a Micron oval can.

Maybe someone else makes smaller oval cans???

#22
veefer800canuck
Flash and FlareAlso if I had to vote on longer narrow (arrow or tunes) cans or larger shorter(micron or TB's) I would opt for the later larger shorter. Love the sound of the larger vs. the narrow zippy sounding.

But hey thats just me, I guess beggars can't be picky.

Any chance of using our own single side mount under the seat ????

You might have issues with the larger diameter cans fitting properly, clearance issues with the rear tire/suspension being the fly in the ointment.

WOLF themselves began fitting smaller diameter cans later in their production run.

DEVIL USA told me they could supply two of their shotgun style cans with a random connector pipe for (some amount) less than buying a purpose-built system for a specific model.

They further said that the newer shotgun style cans have a nicer CF finish/weave than the earlier ones which is what I have.

But since I got mine on a blowout deal to get them the heck out of the dealership (hanging on the wall for years and years) I didn't take DEVIL up on their offer.

The Devil shotgun Y-pipe I never used, I EBAY'd it. Was for a CBR929/954 as illustrated here:

[image: db_900_CBR__Dble_Tuning9.jpg]

I also thought about using two oval cans, laying horizontally but there wasn't enough room to right for then to fit. At least not a Micron oval can.

Maybe someone else makes smaller oval cans???

My bike currently has a Micron high mount, how about just a single pipe under tail, just lay it flat in there ???? All I would have to do is figure a way to turn the outlet pipe so it faces down instead of off to one side.

I love the sound of the Micron, but have wanted a undertail exhaust also.

F&F

#23
Flash and FlareMy bike currently has a Micron high mount, how about just a single pipe under tail, just lay it flat in there ???? All I would have to do is figure a way to turn the outlet pipe so it faces down instead of off to one side.

I love the sound of the Micron, but have wanted a undertail exhaust also.

F&F

Probably doable. Magellan made his own single underseat system (below) and there was someone else too(?).

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Oh yeah, it was VFRmonkey:

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Get an outlet tip/end cap from a Micron oval can originally meant for a Ducati 916/996/998 and you're all set.

[image: 996_micron.jpg]

Micron USA will probably sell you one direct as spare parts.

http://www.micron-exhaust.com/store/contact.htm

#24
veefer800canuck
Flash and FlareMy bike currently has a Micron high mount, how about just a single pipe under tail, just lay it flat in there ???? All I would have to do is figure a way to turn the outlet pipe so it faces down instead of off to one side.

I love the sound of the Micron, but have wanted a undertail exhaust also.

F&F

Probably doable. Get an outlet tip/end cap from a Micron oval can originally meant for a Ducati 916/996/998 and you're all set.

[image: 996_micron.jpg]

Micron will probably sell you one direct as spare parts.

You just made the job easier, now someone just needs to make the pans and the piping so its plug and play.

*crossing fingers*

BTW, if you only knew how many times I have watched your sound clip vids. sheesh love that sound

#25

Neil can make his own mufflers - I'll just tell him to make a copy of the Micron. Or maybe a larger oval with dual tips...Needs to find a good source for carbon fiber though if you want it in Carbon.

#26
SAFE-TNeil can make his own mufflers - I'll just tell him to make a copy of the Micron. Or maybe a larger oval with dual tips...Needs to find a good source for carbon fiber though if you want it in Carbon.

I would prefer carbon to keep the heat down, my carbon Micron I can grab a hold of after a ride.............really like that feature. SAFE-T not to vier off topic here but I was looking in your gallery and I like your windscreen, what make and model is that ?

#27

I've been :lurk: ing here since this thread began, but it's been a busy holiday season... First off, great work among the fabricators here. It would be amazing if we collectively came up with the means to assemble a reasonably priced kit. I for one like dual outlets, regardless of whether that means two mufflers or one. It just fills the space nicely. License plate placement is another issue, especially if you don't like the idea of it hanging way down below your beautiful muffler mods. That's the reason I went with mine above the muffler, even though it unfortunately obstructs the rear view of the muffler a bit.

The reason I eventually abandoned my underseat setup for the tok tokkie underbody design was that I ride two-up all the time and we were hitting the pipes and muffler with the rear tire on big bumps, sometimes hard enough to send an impact up through the seat. Another problem I had was melting bits on the undertray. I tried to cheap out and modify the stock plastic undertray, which later melted in several spots (despite heat-resistant sheeting between the undertray and exhaust). Last but not least, the muffler guy I used did a hurry-up job on the mid-pipe-to-muffler section with mild steel, and after seeing veefer800canuck's stainless and Wolf mid-pipes, I'm pretty underwhelmed with mine.

So I built one like tok tokkie's last spring. After living with the underbody system for a season, I found it had several significant drawbacks (not that I think tok tokkie is anything but brilliant for designing it!!), so now I'm back at the drawing board... again... <_<

At this point, I'd recommend the following for any complete underseat system: An undertray made of thin ceramic-coated aluminum (I think Rob would agree that even thinner sheet than he used would be fine) with as much room as possible underneath for the bend connecting the mid-pipe and Y-pipes (it needs to be as *up-and-forward* as possible to avoid tire contact later. Ovalled pipes (much as on the 6th gens) would be the best solution yet. Carbon-skinned cans would be best for limiting heat transfer. The grommeted stays for the tail plastic (at the back by the lights) need to be replicated to avoid cracking plastics (as happens with Wolf systems unless modified). Re-positioning of the CPU is required. Shimming the shock (especially if you ride two-up) will likely be necessary, no matter how compact/ideally routed your system is, to avoid tire-to-muffler/pipe contact over big bumps. License-plate location is still an issue, maybe one best left up to the individual (I recommend Lite 'N Bolts for license-plate lighting).

First one to assemble a plug-and-play kit that addresses all of the above for under $1000 wins!!!! :D

#28

I understand that one off stuff and custom stuff is $$$ but for $1000 my Micron Carbon high mount is looking better and better.

Thanks for raining on my parade. LOL

F&F

#29
Flash and FlareI understand that one off stuff and custom stuff is $$$ but for $1000 my Micron Carbon high mount is looking better and better.

Thanks for raining on my parade. LOL

F&F

Yes, but a nice underseat setup is even better than a high-mount, especially if you want luggage options. wink.gif

#30
magellan
Flash and FlareI understand that one off stuff and custom stuff is $$$ but for $1000 my Micron Carbon high mount is looking better and better.

Thanks for raining on my parade. LOL

F&F

Yes, but a nice underseat setup is even better than a high-mount, especially if you want luggage options. wink.gif

I have a full set of RKA soft bags that came with the bike, previous owner said worked great it the carbon Micron.

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F&F

Edited January 1, 2007 by Flash and Flare
#31

If ya wanna play, ya gotta pay.

FYI anyone that can get a professional bolt-up underseat exhaust made one at a time is going to be looking at spending at least $1000. Everyone I've seen on the board has done them on their own to various degrees. I know veefer800canuck spent around $900 (US) for the mufflers and connector pipe, not including the time and money spent on the undertray. Add the cost of postage to get it to you and you can see where this is leading.

My guess is this is the primary reason why Wolf (and Erion and Two Brothers) no longer make systems for the VFR.

Bottom line is that if $1000-$1500 is too much, you're playing in the wrong sandbox.

#32
SAFE-TIf ya wanna play, ya gotta pay.

FYI anyone that can get a professional bolt-up underseat exhaust made one at a time is going to be looking at spending at least $1000. Everyone I've seen on the board has done them on their own to various degrees. I know veefer800canuck spent around $900 (US) for the mufflers and connector pipe, not including the time and money spent on the undertray. Add the cost of postage to get it to you and you can see where this is leading.

My guess is this is the primary reason why Wolf (and Erion and Two Brothers) no longer make systems for the VFR.

Bottom line is that if $1000-$1500 is too much, you're playing in the wrong sandbox.

SAFE-T I totally agree, even though I was hoping for alot less. I have built alot of one off stuff for snowmobiles and for my MX-Banshee

Just like you said "playing in the wrong sandbox"

F&F

#33
magellanAt this point, I'd recommend the following for any complete underseat system: An undertray made of thin ceramic-coated aluminum (I think Rob would agree that even thinner sheet than he used would be fine) with as much room as possible underneath for the bend connecting the mid-pipe and Y-pipes (it needs to be as *up-and-forward* as possible to avoid tire contact later. Ovalled pipes (much as on the 6th gens) would be the best solution yet. Carbon-skinned cans would be best for limiting heat transfer. The grommeted stays for the tail plastic (at the back by the lights) need to be replicated to avoid cracking plastics (as happens with Wolf systems unless modified). Re-positioning of the CPU is required. Shimming the shock (especially if you ride two-up) will likely be necessary, no matter how compact/ideally routed your system is, to avoid tire-to-muffler/pipe contact over big bumps. License-plate location is still an issue, maybe one best left up to the individual (I recommend Lite 'N Bolts for license-plate lighting).

Good summary Magellan, I'd just add that for 3rd and 4th Gen owners you can gain up to 30mm of additional clearance between tyre and underseat canisters if you mod the rear brake caliper locating plate to allow the eccentric to be flipped - it changes the geometry of the bike, but you'd do it mainly for two-up work so handling variations at 9/10ths would not be a factor. Unless your pillion is very brave :unsure:

First one to assemble a plug-and-play kit that addresses all of the above for under $1000 wins!!!! :D

Yep it would be fantastic to see an off the shelf set-up made available. Also an off the shelf USD fork kit. Oh, and off the shelf NR replica bodywork.

(yawn) hey looks like it's time to wake up! nice dream...

#34
The PhantomI'd just add that for 3rd and 4th Gen owners you can gain up to 30mm of additional clearance between tyre and underseat canisters if you mod the rear brake caliper locating plate to allow the eccentric to be flipped.

Only the fourth, Muzzah - the third gen can have the eccentric flipped without anything else needing to be done.

Yep it would be fantastic to see an off the shelf set-up made available. Also an off the shelf USD fork kit. Oh, and off the shelf NR replica bodywork.

(yawn) hey looks like it's time to wake up! nice dream...

I reckon it would be pretty easy to make a CF undertray, which would also mean that problems of heat transferance would be minimised.

Did you see the link I posted yesterday to that RC51 underseat zorst? I'd like to see summat like that on a VFR. I'd volunteer to be first, but first I'd have to divorce/kill my wife....

Here we go:

http://www.honda-rc51.de/RC_reworked_2006_17-Web.jpg

Edited January 12, 2007 by enzed_viffer
#36
The Phantom
First one to assemble a plug-and-play kit that addresses all of the above for under $1000 wins!!!! :D

Also an off the shelf USD fork kit.

(yawn) hey looks like it's time to wake up! nice dream...

Actually, one of vfrD's members did put together a number of USD kits...although I can't remember exactly who.

#37
SAFE-T
The Phantom
First one to assemble a plug-and-play kit that addresses all of the above for under $1000 wins!!!! :D

Also an off the shelf USD fork kit.

(yawn) hey looks like it's time to wake up! nice dream...

Actually, one of vfrD's members did put together a number of USD kits...although I can't remember exactly who.

JoeAshville?

#38
veefer800canuckJoeAshville?

Thats it. Havent seen him around for awhile tho.

#39

Ya where is Joe? :huh:

#40
dudeYa where is Joe? :huh:

I heard he's goin down to shoot his old lady,

you know he caught her messin' 'round with another man. wink.gif

#41

What is the diameter of the exhaust piping that goes from the header section to the mufflers? Is it all the same on all generations of bikes? Just wondering if it a standard 2" diameter exhaust tubing?

#42

what's the clearance with the original wolf undertray/setup i.e. are there any rear wheel/exhaust issues ?

perhaps I can lay my hands on a original undertray, for what it's worth

#43
Rolfwhat's the clearance with the original wolf undertray/setup i.e. are there any rear wheel/exhaust issues ?

perhaps I can lay my hands on a original undertray, for what it's worth

I scored one from a bikepics member. I didnt want to hack up the original undertray, so I bought another so the bike could go back the way it was. I "did" use my existing T/B muffler as a gineau pig. You'll have to shorten the muffler by aleast 3.5inches......and fabricate some kind of hanging bracket for the muffler. The most important thing is to cut the undertray so the muffler will fit. A muffler shop bent the pipe for me. but I left the muffler installed on the bike so the guy could mate them up. The only issue that I had was plate placement. I had it too far under the bike and the rear wheel bent the shit out of it LOL.... I moved it out towards the tip of the muffler and I'm all set. Oh yeah, you'll have to rig up some kinda plate light. I dont know what kinda muffler you have but I had to get a ducati end cap that fit the C-5 can so the muffler exited straight out instead of off to one side.......it looked kinda stupid. Look in bikepics.com. They is a guy in there(Brad) who did this. I contacted him and followed the mod to the "T" One other thing, fab up some kinda heat shield for the muffler and pipe. I made the mistake of winging it and burned the under side of my NEW sargent seat!! I was lucky it didnt burn through. I screwed a heat shield to the seat and wrapped the exhaust pipe. Right now it's good. I'm still not done though......I still have to send out the mid pipe to have it smoothed and chromed. but it looked good polished. I will see if I can send a pic..... Not good at that. I do have one up on vfrworld.com. It's under harricanfloyd posts...... I know this was a little long, but hope it helps!!

#44
SAFE-TIf ya wanna play, ya gotta pay.

FYI anyone that can get a professional bolt-up underseat exhaust made one at a time is going to be looking at spending at least $1000. Everyone I've seen on the board has done them on their own to various degrees. I know veefer800canuck spent around $900 (US) for the mufflers and connector pipe, not including the time and money spent on the undertray. Add the cost of postage to get it to you and you can see where this is leading.

My guess is this is the primary reason why Wolf (and Erion and Two Brothers) no longer make systems for the VFR.

Bottom line is that if $1000-$1500 is too much, you're playing in the wrong sandbox.

I thought that a large portion of why these companies stopped building exhausts for the 5th and 6th gen VFR's was related to the Catalytic converter.

They don't want to make a cat and go through the grief of getting it certified, and a slip on only adds a few % points more power.

I would gladly pay 1500 for a full Ti system that could retain the cat somehow.

I wonder if any one of our fellow vifferati could split the casing on a vfr catalyst and transplant the core to a new casing. Technically that should be legal since the actual Catalyst is not altered only the case it resides in.

End of thread · 44 posts recovered Wayback Machine snapshot 17 Sep 2019