Adding Superbike Bars To Your Bike

Very nice Doug!
What's the part # for the straight bar? It looks like that one would give dimensions(rise) close to stock if used with the standard risers?

Very nice Doug!
What's the part # for the straight bar? It looks like that one would give dimensions(rise) close to stock if used with the standard risers?

http://cgi.ebay.com/...71133QQtcZphoto


So as you can see from the price of these bars plus the mounts, you're looking at less than 1/4 the price of LSL setups if you don't need longer throttle cables or brake lines. Inspecting the basically identical handlebar setup on my former Bandit1200S is what got me to try this myself and I've done it to each bike I've owned since then. :thumbsup:

Any problems with fairing interference at lock to lock turning?

Makes it look like wheelbarrow in my opinion. Each to his own.

Makes it look like wheelbarrow in my opinion. Each to his own.

I would certainly use a color less conspicuous than gold.
Other than that, I don't think tall handlebars are too out of place on a VFR. The police VFR750P/800P look just fine... except for the mirrors maybe.
I was seriously considering the handlebar mod myself, but I think I'm starting to get used to the stock clip-ons.

Not meaning to hijack your thread FotoMoto... But your pictures reminded me of the question I had for a while: why do people replace their brake reservoirs with these... things?

Not meaning to hijack your thread FotoMoto... But your pictures reminded me of the question I had for a while: why do people replace their brake reservoirs with these... things?
[image: Posted Image]

Nice project, but I have a suggestion. First, those lock washers look too big for the bolts. Second, I would have a large flat washer up against the bottom of the mount with the lock washer on top of that. Helps distribute the load across the bottom of the cast aluminum.

i've seen one guy who did that mod to his naked cbr600 - he dropped the bike one day and had to change the upper triple, it was bent =\ What is the thickness of the metal in the palce you have drilled the holes? 5mm or more? Now the cbre600 owner uses the cheapest steel bars he can find, because they bend themselves easily without damaging the T.. Another option is to use rubber bushings, like in skateboards..

In the case of my '83, I'm doing this mod to replicate what Honda did to their race bikes back in the day(although I'm keeping the stock gauges).

Stock:
[image: Posted Image]

Race setup:
[image: Posted Image]

They must have used the small round res for a reason, because the stock one would have bolted on just as easily...

Hi Sebspeed, new here and saw this handlebar conversion of yours. Could you give more details or direct me to other posts on VF750F handlebar conversions? Thanks, Jim (slowsupra)

Hi Sebspeed, new here and saw this handlebar conversion of yours. Could you give more details or direct me to other posts on VF750F handlebar conversions? Thanks, Jim (slowsupra)

Sorry Jim, but I never did follow through on that project. I used clip ons instead. You will have a bit of difficulty fitting bars to your 750 triple, as the 750 has a relieved upper triple and finding a spot to bolt the risers will be tricky.

SEBSPEED

Also, for anyone else considering this mod, ST1100 cables are about 4" longer than the 5th gen/6th gen cables and have the same free length, which makes them a good way to get that taller bar set up properly.

I just ordered Renthal 756 (high bars) bars to put on my 5th Gen. What year ST1100 and what cables will cross fit?

I believe all years of ST1100 use the same throttle cables.

Run the part numbers through the Ron Ayers partfinder and it'll tell you which years fit.

My previous VFR 6th Gen also has the steering bar. However, I think the tripple clamp has been replaced by the Jap Police version and it has the OEM clamps and others.

[image: dsc0047small.jpg]

Think the clutch and brake lines would cross fit as well?

I'm way into doing this project. So far everything seems to be able to fit except the throttle cables. Fotomoto or anyone else who has done this........ did you replace the throttle cables or reroute them?

gwcrim

I'm way into doing this project. So far everything seems to be able to fit except the throttle cables. Fotomoto or anyone else who has done this........ did you replace the throttle cables or reroute them?

I got a longer throttle cable from the Helibars folks. Only needed a 1/2" or so, iirc. In any event, Helibars sells/sold a longer cable that did the job.

Thanks a bunch. So far I've done all the work without removing even the windsheild. Upper clamp is drilled (I did remove that) and it looks like the master cylinders will clear. Should be done, including new grips and cables for about $150. Running new cables may be tricky with the fairings on though.

MotionPro also sells longer cables. Someone said that ST1100 cables will work.

I just ordered a used set of ST1100 cables and the throttle assy from Ebay. I really can't see how anyone could reroute the stock throttle cables successfully. I'm planning a trip to Deals Gap in a week and would rather be safe than sorry. Sure hope I can get this project buttoned up by then.

It's done and I love the results. Still great handling in a much more comfortable position. Throttle works well except at the extreme end of turns. That can probably be worked out with time and patience. Total cost was in the $150 ballpark. Great deal when compared to Helibars, etc.

gwcrim

SEBSPEED

Also, for anyone else considering this mod, ST1100 cables are about 4" longer than the 5th gen/6th gen cables and have the same free length, which makes them a good way to get that taller bar set up properly.

I just ordered Renthal 756 (high bars) bars to put on my 5th Gen. What year ST1100 and what cables will cross fit?

What do the 756 bars look like?

Thinking of trying a set of Street Fighter bars on the vtec.

BR

Very nice! Where to buy the clamps for the handle bars? Would the 919 bar fit? This is my next mod, half the price of Heli bars!!

Thank you. This kind of "how to" post is always interesting.

2002VTEC

Very nice! Where to buy the clamps for the handle bars? Would the 919 bar fit? This is my next mod, half the price of Heli bars!!

Wondering the same, found and ordered a set of handlebar risers off ebay for $30 yesterday to at least get started.

BR

Tag or Driven brand risers are a good place to start, bars are pretty universal, as long as the riser and bar sizes match. 7/8" vs 1 1/8"

If you want to go middle-of-the-road on price, buy the Spiegler bar and extended line kit as spec'd in their kit. Then adapt to your triple clamp using your own aftermarket risers.

SEBSPEED

Tag or Driven brand risers are a good place to start, bars are pretty universal, as long as the riser and bar sizes match. 7/8" vs 1 1/8"

If you want to go middle-of-the-road on price, buy the Spiegler bar and extended line kit as spec'd in their kit. Then adapt to your triple clamp using your own aftermarket risers.

Thanks Seb!

Looking on ebay Tag didn't really show up, I'll try the other.

I bought a set of these, they are 22mm rise so i'm not sure of what bend of bars I would want or need yet.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/170856046745?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

I was thinking of wider flatter bars to get more leverage on the bars (less effort) and even more upright than my Heli's.

Guess I need a Wing! :rolleyes:

BR

Those look just like my Driven brand risers, minus the logo.

You'll need a new pair of mounting bolts, those are too long. No big deal, you just go to the hardware store for the bolts, then load them in your poor man's lathe.

[image: 8-16-10009.jpg]

The riser bolts have a "D" shape so you need to turn down the hex head and then grind a flat on it. Just use the old ones as a guide like I did here:

[image: 8-16-10008.jpg]

[image: 8-16-10007.jpg]

[image: 8-16-10011.jpg]

Looks good, thanks for the info Seb! :smile:

Interesting lathe Seb. I see you have met Necessities Mother of Invention. :beer:

What if the drill and the grinder are spinning in opposite directions at the same speed???

LOL!

ST1100 throttle cables work ...i have them...routing them is a trick as they hit the dash on the top...so have to route them between the fork tube and the steering T instead

Choke cable is an issues so still hunting for the long ones.

VFR4Lee

Interesting lathe Seb. I see you have met Necessities Mother of Invention. :beer:

Cheers Lee, I have a real lathe now but the press worked the few times I really needed it! I also used it to kill a couple things, but that got kind of hairy at times.

With the ST1100 cables I am stuck because the bracket that holds the threaded ends in place is too far. I took it to my fathers machine shop and brought it forward about an inch, but I haven't had a chance to install yet because of work. For the choke you can try removing the airbox and rerouting the cable directly to the left handle bar on top of where the throttle cables run through to goto the right hand side. I tested this from lock to lock with my spiegler kit and it does not bind.

daemontrym

With the ST1100 cables I am stuck because the bracket that holds the threaded ends in place is too far. I took it to my fathers machine shop and brought it forward about an inch, but I haven't had a chance to install yet because of work. For the choke you can try removing the airbox and rerouting the cable directly to the left handle bar on top of where the throttle cables run through to goto the right hand side. I tested this from lock to lock with my spiegler kit and it does not bind.

That's because the carb bike cables have more free length in the cable. (ST11 was FI, right?)

Check to make sure you get 100% throttle use with that cable.

gwcrim

It's done and I love the results. Still great handling in a much more comfortable position. Throttle works well except at the extreme end of turns. That can probably be worked out with time and patience. Total cost was in the $150 ballpark. Great deal when compared to Helibars, etc.

Pics?

daemontrym

With the ST1100 cables I am stuck because the bracket that holds the threaded ends in place is too far. I took it to my fathers machine shop and brought it forward about an inch, but I haven't had a chance to install yet because of work. For the choke you can try removing the airbox and rerouting the cable directly to the left handle bar on top of where the throttle cables run through to goto the right hand side. I tested this from lock to lock with my spiegler kit and it does not bind.

you need to move the lock nut ahead to get more slack

[image: ST1100 Throttle cable fitting]

[image: P6150089-1.jpg]

[image: P6150090.jpg]

[image: P6150091.jpg]

[image: P6150092.jpg]

[image: P6150093.jpg]

[image: P6150094.jpg]

[image: P6150095.jpg]

The risers I got were Outlaw brand from Ebay. They are threaded for studs so I got socket head bolts and ran them up through the holes in the upper clamp. Put good amount of blue Loctite on as well. When I ran my cables, I used a heavy gauge wire and pulled the old ones through from the top then ran the new ones back down. Worked really slick Clearance is tight but certainly adequate. Probably 1/4 inch.

Did Deals Gap last week and was very satisfied.

Try putting the cables on the lower end first and then on the throttle tube. You have to have the bars out of the risers too. That was probably the toughest part of the job.

gwcrim

I just ordered Renthal 756 (high bars) bars to put on my 5th Gen. What year ST1100 and what cables will cross fit?

What's the difference in the 755 and 756 bars?

thx

There are three different Renthal street bars. Low, med, and high. I got the high ones. If you look at their website they give the dimensions.

gwcrim

There are three different Renthal street bars. Low, med, and high. I got the high ones. If you look at their website they give the dimensions.

Thx, I've seen that, but no ref to thoses numbers 755, 756, etc. Those are the hi ones then, ok.

BR

Baileyrock

gwcrim

There are three different Renthal street bars. Low, med, and high. I got the high ones. If you look at their website they give the dimensions.

Thx, I've seen that, but no ref to thoses numbers 755, 756, etc. Those are the hi ones then, ok.

BR

They have dimensions here:

LINK

http://www.renthal.com/File/apps1.asp?tabtype=5&productid=0&appid=ROAD&zone=&biketype=&manufacturer=&model=&bikedate=

CtrlAltDl

Baileyrock

gwcrim

There are three different Renthal street bars. Low, med, and high. I got the high ones. If you look at their website they give the dimensions.

Thx, I've seen that, but no ref to thoses numbers 755, 756, etc. Those are the hi ones then, ok.

BR

They have dimensions here:

LINK

http://www.renthal.c...odel=&bikedate=

Thank You!

I noticed both of you guys that posted pics of your setups (5th and 6th gen) that your triples are dropped about an inch down the forks? Is that for any specific reason?

silverbullet132

I noticed both of you guys that posted pics of your setups (5th and 6th gen) that your triples are dropped about an inch down the forks? Is that for any specific reason?

That is the way they come from the factory. The clip ons mount above the top triple tree cclamp.

Probably an illusion. Because that's where the stock clipons would attach, so without them in place, you see the fork tops sticking up above the triple.

But some people do raise the forks up about a half inch for quicker steering.

An inch would be HUGE.

Ah ok. I was looking at doing the conversion, is it 100% that new throttle cables are needed? I took a look at mine, and it looks like they could possible be re routed to allow for the extra bar height and rise. If not, no big deal, which year(s) ST1100 cables fit? All of them?

This is for a '98, would I need to re route the 'choke' cable?

Just ordered the TAG risers OP used, Renthal 755 bar in black, and Oberon 14mm bar ends. Hopefully I do not need extended cables due to buying the 755 instead of the 756.

silverbullet132

Just ordered the TAG risers OP used, Renthal 755 bar in black, and Oberon 14mm bar ends. Hopefully I do not need extended cables due to buying the 755 instead of the 756.

Where did you find the risers at? Been considering doing this instead of the Speiglers on my wife's 07 but using OE handlebars.

huntinggunns

silverbullet132

Just ordered the TAG risers OP used, Renthal 755 bar in black, and Oberon 14mm bar ends. Hopefully I do not need extended cables due to buying the 755 instead of the 756.

Where did you find the risers at? Been considering doing this instead of the Speiglers on my wife's 07 but using OE handlebars.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/7-8-5mm-Riser-Handlebars-Clamp-Kit-Steering-Stem-Honda-TRX250R-250R-86-87-88-89-/400296357552?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d3385aeb0&vxp=mtr#ht_4096wt_1163

I'm looking into this mod, and I have a question. How far in from the ends of the 755 bar did you drill the holes? Also, just to double check on the materials needed; I need a Renthal 755 bar, the bar risers (found on Ebay), washers and rubber spacers for vibes, and ST1300 throttle cables. Anything I am missing? I am working with a 5th gen.

The LSL kit fits with no change of lines or cables needed. They just have to be rerouted a bit.

It has the handlebar and 2 pairs of clamps, some associated bolts and that's it.

Supply grips and bar ends of your choice, and install.

It's pricier than rolling your own at about $300, but a nice solution, looks and works good.

Much more comfortable. I'm happy with mine. :cool:

VFR4Lee

The LSL kit fits with no change of lines or cables needed. They just have to be rerouted a bit.

It has the handlebar and 2 pairs of clamps, some associated bolts and that's it.

Supply grips and bar ends of your choice, and install.

It's pricier than rolling your own at about $300, but a nice solution, looks and works good.

Much more comfortable. I'm happy with mine. :cool:

It does look nicer (I dig that triple tree) but I'm not really convinced that it's worth the $300, so I am still going for the cheaper alternative.

I have another question for those who've done what the OP did; can I use the OEM bar ends?

Re: Bar Ends - the OEM bar ends are unique to the Honda setup and won't fit a regular bar. I went with cheap universal ends that work fine.

Deeds

VFR4Lee

The LSL kit fits with no change of lines or cables needed. They just have to be rerouted a bit.

It has the handlebar and 2 pairs of clamps, some associated bolts and that's it.

Supply grips and bar ends of your choice, and install.

It's pricier than rolling your own at about $300, but a nice solution, looks and works good.

Much more comfortable. I'm happy with mine. :cool:

It does look nicer (I dig that triple tree) but I'm not really convinced that it's worth the $300, so I am still going for the cheaper alternative.

I have another question for those who've done what the OP did; can I use the OEM bar ends?

I saw it as one of those do you have more money or more time deals.

Maybe I should have found more time. The final tab including install by shop was about $500. :wacko:

But, what's done is done. No going back. Good thing I like the result. :warranty:

Has anyone done this on a 4th gen?

navas

Has anyone done this on a 4th gen?

Yes (and not by me) but only as a streetfighter or a naked bike. The problem is the fairing pocket is so tight that even the LSL kit says fairing modification is required. I bought a used set without cables but haven't installed it. I may try and find another bar that will allow it to work without cutting the fairing, but in the meantime, it is hanging on the wall above my workbench.

Here's a pic from Spiegler website where you see the fairing has been cutback: http://www.spieglerusa.com/handlebar-conversion-kit-4270.htm

Mine is naked so cutting doesn't matter just if lines need to be extended would be the only other thing.

So I got the Renthal 755 bar today. How can I install bar ends?

Pretty sure the Hawk had clip ons and not handlebars..? Not 100%

Pretty sure the Hawk had clip ons and not handlebars..? Not 100%

Hawk 650 DID have clipons.

NTV650 = Deauville

[image: Honda%20NTV%20650%20Deauville%2098%20%20]

[image: pb%20from%20rider.jpg]

[image: honda-deauville-top-fork-clamp-yoke.jpg]

NTV650 = Deauville

So it's the hawk?

Nope, us Hawk GT had clip-ons. The ntv Deauville that the rest of the world got is the right one. Hawk on top.

[image: gallery_5310_4809_149885.jpg]

What size and type bolts hold the top triple in place next to the ignition? I can't seem to get at them.

Well, looks like they are Torx, and I managed to strip one of them. I also don't have the right size Torx bits. WHY, HONDA, WHY?? Guess I am at an impasse until I can find my way around them. Can't drill them out, either, because there won't be enough room to get a drill in there.

What size and type bolts hold the top triple in place next to the ignition? I can't seem to get at them.

Well, looks like they are Torx, and I managed to strip one of them. I also don't have the right size Torx bits. WHY, HONDA, WHY?? Guess I am at an impasse until I can find my way around them. Can't drill them out, either, because there won't be enough room to get a drill in there.

what part of Virginia?

What size and type bolts hold the top triple in place next to the ignition? I can't seem to get at them.

Well, looks like they are Torx, and I managed to strip one of them. I also don't have the right size Torx bits. WHY, HONDA, WHY?? Guess I am at an impasse until I can find my way around them. Can't drill them out, either, because there won't be enough room to get a drill in there.

what part of Virginia?

I am in Virginia Beach. I managed to get the top triple off. I just disconnected the ignition and pulled the whole thing out. I drilled the holes slightly off, so the bar will end up being crooked by maybe 1 degree. Oh well, that won't bother me much since I will be getting a LSL kit in the coming months to replace everything.

What size and type bolts hold the top triple in place next to the ignition? I can't seem to get at them.

Well, looks like they are Torx, and I managed to strip one of them. I also don't have the right size Torx bits. WHY, HONDA, WHY?? Guess I am at an impasse until I can find my way around them. Can't drill them out, either, because there won't be enough room to get a drill in there.

what part of Virginia?

I am in Virginia Beach. I managed to get the top triple off. I just disconnected the ignition and pulled the whole thing out. I drilled the holes slightly off, so the bar will end up being crooked by maybe 1 degree. Oh well, that won't bother me much since I will be getting a LSL kit in the coming months to replace everything.

I would like to see what you have done before I mess up... :goofy:

Just finished the installation and a test ride. It's great! Feels MUCH more comfortable, and I feel like I have more control over the bike with the higher seating and greater leverage over the front wheel. I used ST1300 cables I copped off ebay for cheap, and they had plenty of reach (with a little bit extra). I have yet to get some bar ends that fit (I don't want to pay the $40 price for the Renthal ends(there aren't any noticeable vibrations, anyway)), and the holes I drilled in the top triple are ever so slightly off (will be corrected with a Dremel), but this works well as a temporary fix. I will be getting the LSL kit in the future, anyway. I am riding out to West Virginia next weekend (5 or so hours or riding), so I am excited to see how well they work.

Just finished the installation and a test ride. It's great! Feels MUCH more comfortable, and I feel like I have more control over the bike with the higher seating and greater leverage over the front wheel. I used ST1300 cables I copped off ebay for cheap, and they had plenty of reach (with a little bit extra). I have yet to get some bar ends that fit (I don't want to pay the $40 price for the Renthal ends(there aren't any noticeable vibrations, anyway)), and the holes I drilled in the top triple are ever so slightly off (will be corrected with a Dremel), but this works well as a temporary fix. I will be getting the LSL kit in the future, anyway. I am riding out to West Virginia next weekend (5 or so hours or riding), so I am excited to see how well they work.

You can use any 14mm bar end  :)

Bump for the mother of all bar mods!

BR

I wish I had time to source parts and do this mod before I take my 2,500 mile trip from KY to CT & NH and back again. I might have to do this soon.

I've noticed that people recommended two different options for longer throttle cables (ST1100 and ST1300). Would either of those work? Do i definitely need them if I go with a 22 mm riser and Renthal 756 bars on a 6th gen?

Come to find out, ST1100 throttle cables are roughly the same size as our 6th gen cables.So they won't fit with my superbar set up
(I found this out after doing a ton of work setting up a superbar system only to have to set it all back to stock). Does anyone know the length of ST1300 cables or if they are 4-5" longer than stock VFR cables?

I have a set of later ST1300 cables and I'm guessing they might be 2" longer then stock VFR's.  Not much gain IMO.

Makes it look like wheelbarrow in my opinion. Each to his own.

I would certainly use a color less conspicuous than gold.
Other than that, I don't think tall handlebars are too out of place on a VFR. The police VFR750P/800P look just fine... except for the mirrors maybe.
I was seriously considering the handlebar mod myself, but I think I'm starting to get used to the stock clip-ons.

You guys bring up another benefit: you can run whatever color and bar bend you want or even go old skool chrome. Here's another pic of a black bar I've used:

[image: KG9K7937.jpg]

I prefer the gold bar on my vfr as it picks up the gold engine cover and 6 piston calipers quite nicely IMNSHO. :salesman:

[image: IMG_9233.jpg]

What are the make of the satin silver bar  clamps? WHere did you buy them?

Tman

They are Moose brand risers. Parts Unlimited carries them.

I've had A LOT of hassles with the ST1100 throttle cables on my 5th gen during the install of my Spiegler LSL superbike bars. The ST cables are about 2.75" longer in overall length then the stock cables, but because they are from a carbureted bike they have a different length of free cable extended out from the cable sleeve. I eventually had to bend the cable mount on the throttle body assembly to get them to work... and they didn't offer enough increase in length for the bars I installed so a thorough re-route was necessary to get them to work.

I did same thing but i put the new upper tripple clamp right on top of stock upper tripple clamp.

Just finished putting a set of LSL Spiegler handlebars on my '07 RWB. Major PIA but end result works well.Waiting for a set of Galfer braided lines to show up to complete the upgrade..

I went a little different route. I used my 1 1/8 bars ( renthal fat bars ) Used KTM Mounts. I then installed rox risers, 2004 super hawk controls, Honda ST1300 cables and I'm so comfortable. It only cost me $100

Picture Corndogs?

On vacation in seattle, will post pics soon

VFRMikey

Just finished putting a set of LSL Spiegler handlebars on my '07 RWB. Major PIA but end result works well.Waiting for a set of Galfer braided lines to show up to complete the upgrade.

Hi. New forum member, first post, etc. I have the same model '07 VFR for a few

weeks now. I planned on either Helibars or the LSL kit, and decided to

try the LSL kit because it gives a bit more upright position. I just

finished the conversion and I agree it was a colossal PITA. Figuring

out where to drill the holes in the handlebar for the switch housings

took a while. There was very little clearance between the clutch hose

banjo bolt and the fork cap. There was just barely enough room for the

grip and housing to fit without the banjo bolt touching. On the

throttle side, I had to drill the hole more toward the center compared

to stock, because the new bar ends are flush. The stock bar ends allow

7 mm of overhang of the throttle tube over the bar end. If you're on

the fence between the LSL kit and the Helibars, figure out what 4

hours of your time is worth just to drill those holes correctly and

subtract it from the price of the Helibars (pre-drilled).

The extended throttle cables I bought from Convertibars were

problematic. The housing is long enough, but the inner wire is too

short. I just barely got it to work by moving the LH nut on the top

cable end to the other side, and taking all of the slack out of the

adjuster near the grip. It's extremely tight with no slack. I wonder

if he sent me cables for a carbureted bike.

Another thing I didn't realize before buying the kit: The handlebar is

a smaller diameter than the factory clip-ons. This makes the control

mounting loose and sloppy. I had to put some rubber under the clutch

and brake lever clamps to keep them from sliding around. The switch

housings are still floppy but probably fixable with more rubber

shims.

I just finished it up last night. To be honest, it feels very odd

to have dirt bike handlebars on a sport bike. Wide and disconnected.

I think I should have bought the Helibars, instead.

Here's the stock cockpit for comparison:

[image: 001.JPG]

Taking the top triple off to reroute the hoses:

[image: IMG_20130917_185912.jpg]

Figuring out where to drill the switchpod locator holes. You can see how close the clutch line banjo bolt is to the fork tube:

[image: DSCN1143%255B1%255D.JPG]

The new look:

[image: IMG_20130918_230831.JPG]

Side view:

[image: IMG_20130918_225621.JPG]

Why did you take the top of the triple tree off to reroute hoses? On second thought, that sounds easier than disconnecting the throttle cable at the linkage and bleeding the clutch out like I did. I used 919 bars which are a touch higher but narrower as well. Only advantage is they are predrilled for a Honda.

dalesvfr

Why did you take the top of the triple tree off to reroute hoses? On second thought, that sounds easier than disconnecting the throttle cable at the linkage and bleeding the clutch out like I did. I used 919 bars which are a touch higher but narrower as well. Only advantage is they are predrilled for a Honda.

I had to pull the throttle cables out of the housing either way, because I used the longer cables from Motion Pro. By pulling the top triple, it was dirt simple to move the switchpod wiring and hydraulic hoses to the outside of the fork tubes. I couldn't think of a downside to it. It saved me from bleeding the front brake, but because of the other stuff around it I couldn't figure out how to move the clutch hose without disconnecting it from the MC. Someone smarter than me might be able to avoid bleeding both.

So, are you happy with the handlebars instead of the clipons? I'm still on the fence. My wrists are happier, at least.

As promised, I finished up my handlebars today. Here are the pics.

[image: image-L.jpg]

[image: image-L.jpg][/url[image: image-L.jpg][/url[image: image-L.jpg][/url[image: image-L.jpg][/url[image: image-L.jpg][/url[image: image-L.jpg]

Those look way high and far back. That oughta take a lot of pressure off your wrists and shoulders.

"Corndogs" that modification is off the hook!

one of my main aim is to get this bike of mine the way i wanted. Is change the handle bar hight.

so after research on this forum and youtube i went out and ordered, AMB straight out of Germany, looks like a straight competitor of LSL

[image: post-28065-0-52181400-1379767314.jpg]

cost me around about $300 aud landed.

[image: post-28065-0-95378900-1379767366.jpg]

ABM Superbike kit and bars to go with it.

i havnt had the chance to install them yet, hopefully after school holidays i have a little more "me" time

here what they look like

[image: post-28065-0-20059200-1379767430.jpg]

does any one know what setting i should have the Tourque wrench ?

lastly is there a way that i can you the old oem bar ends ?

ive taken them off but the thing inside the oem bar ends are still inside.

That's high !!! Gotta get those's throttle cables off of the tank thou .....

N2v take a longer bolt that matches the bar end bolt and use it to push the insert backwards to release it .

Here's a great video ..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W4mgx_W6lYs

N2v it looks like you have to use ABM bar ends any way ....

[image: vfr800-02-top-yoke-adaptor-l.gif]

All the hoses and cables original?

Throttle cables actually don't even touch tank. The cables are oem Honda st 1300 and the clutch and front brake cable just need to be re-routed. Very comfy

I finally found time to post what I had to do to add superbike bars to my bike. I went with 50mm Outlaw risers, Renthal highway bars (756 high bend) and ST1100 throttle cables. My buddy has a killer shop in his basement and he helped me along the way.

We started by using his drill press to hollow out a little bit of the underside of the triple tree so the washers for the risers would sit flush. We played with various ways of re-routing cables to see what would fit. We quickly realized the ST1100 cables would not fit. I researched and found that ST1300 cables would probably be too short too since I needed roughly 5 more inches to reach. I couldn't find anything definitive online as to what cables might fit. My buddy told me of a huge motorcycle salvage yard about an hour away. After spending around 1.5 hours whittling thru endless bins of cables, shelves and trailers, I found what I was looking for. I'm not sure exactly what the cables were off of since all that was there was the throttle housing and the cables. My best guess is that they are off a Honda Shadow as the cable ends were chromed and not black. They were right around 5.25 inches longer in total with the free end roughly the same size as stock.

Once we had the throttle cables in place, we found out the front brake line was too short to reach. After searching through his parts and contemplating what to do, we found a solution. If I removed one of the brackets on the front housing, I was able to get the little bit of slack that was needed to be able to go from lock to lock without any binding. We also had to reroute the clutch cable to give some extra slack there too.

I reused the stock bar ends after he put them his lathe and machined them down a little to fit in the end. I went to Lowes and bought new bar end bolts and some bushings that would screw into some rubber hose that I found at Advance Auto. I used that around the bar end bolts. That enabled me to tighten up the bar ends while expanding the hose to take up the slack inside.

I did have an issue with the master cylinders from the clutch and brake hitting the windshield. I was able to reposition them in such a way that they would barely clear if I removed the black pieces from the inside of the windshield. A small price to pay for the tradeoff of comfort.

I'm loving the overall feel of these. Its more comfortable on long trips. I did 2,100 miles in 5 days with this mod. Although I had some pain in my writs eventually, they were much better than the heli-bars they replaced. They also offer more leverage for the tight roads due to being a little wider than the heli's. It's like I have a new VFR!

[image: Underside Triple]

[image: Top Triple]

[image: Overhead view]

[image: Close up, Risers]

[image: underside brake cable]

[image: Clutch cable]

[image: Throttle, brake cables]

very nice Vecky 5 I might give those 756's a try, they have more bend towards rider than my KTM bars.

Walking through the dealer last weekend and ran across these, CB1000R. Would make a nice mount for those with the RC51/954/929/CBR forks. Offset appears to be the same among them all.

[image: IMG_20131116_162327_286_zps007a27fe.jpg]

wonder anyone has done the same mode and also installed the steering damper from Scotts ?

Thanks Fotomoto for this thread. My VFR has been gathering dust the last couple of years but I miss riding it so I'm doing a bunch of standard maintenance and your bar upgrade this winter.

Found lots of 1 1/8" bar clamps but with some searching found these ("Std" which I hope means 7/8") Applied Racing mounts, Renthal bars, bar ends, and grips all at BTOsports for $140. Will have to see if new cables are necessary, that's ok I've got all winter to get this done.

[image: s0bj.jpg]

http://www.btosports.com/p/APBMHB

Those are sweet, great find ...

[image: Risers]

Finally made some progress on new handlebar install. I ended up with the Renthal Streetfighter model, I like their orientation in space, might be a little too wide for me, though. I guess I can take an inch of each side if necessary.

[image: xkzo.jpg]

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Sooo who else has tackled this? I'm still trying to decide between the LSL kit and going the DIY route for my 5th gen..

Looks like the LSL kit is down to about $260.

You can try to adjust it at the throttle body but it is cramped. Are these stock or ST1100?

Stock cables with a Rental 755 styled bar, I'm thinking I'm pinched some where So I'm going to take it apart again and try to reroute them again.

Most time consuming part about this mod is adjustment so the wire does not get pinched. I used st1300 cables for this mod.

Attached Images

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Hard to tell what models everyone has and what the solution per model is. My VFR is an 04 (6th Gen).I have some back issues and longer rides become uncomfortable, making it hard for me to get into touring. I test rode a '13 vstrom and fell in love with the ergonomics. Unfortunately, I cannot afford one of those at the moment and I love the drivetrain of the Viffer. I've decided to put some money into the seat (Spencer mod) and handle bar to see if I can turn the bike into what I want.

- To get as close as possible to the strom ergos, I think I'll need the Renthal 756 (high) bar. What should I plan to move/re-route to make these work and will I need different cables? Also, how does this bar and position (angle) compare to that of the strom or police VFRs (those seem very upright and comfortable)? Thanks in advance. 

I have the 756 bar. You can also add upto 3-4 inches of spacer between your upper triple tree. It makes it extremely comfortable. Just so you know that out of the total time required to finish this project 40% is engineering stuff while 60% time would be spent just adjusting the handlebar etc to match the best place for you.

Hard to tell what models everyone has and what the solution per model is. My VFR is an 04 (6th Gen).I have some back issues and longer rides become uncomfortable, making it hard for me to get into touring. I test rode a '13 vstrom and fell in love with the ergonomics. Unfortunately, I cannot afford one of those at the moment and I love the drivetrain of the Viffer. I've decided to put some money into the seat (Spencer mod) and handle bar to see if I can turn the bike into what I want.

- To get as close as possible to the strom ergos, I think I'll need the Renthal 756 (high) bar. What should I plan to move/re-route to make these work and will I need different cables? Also, how does this bar and position (angle) compare to that of the strom or police VFRs (those seem very upright and comfortable)? Thanks in advance. 

Sounds about right haha. Did you replace the cables? Got any pics?

I have the 756 bar. You can also add upto 3-4 inches of spacer between your upper triple tree. It makes it extremely comfortable. Just so you know that out of the total time required to finish this project 40% is engineering stuff while 60% time would be spent just adjusting the handlebar etc to match the best place for you.

i used new st1300 cables. I believe someone has had luck with honda shadow cables as well as they are even more longer than st1300, but dont quote me on that.

I dont have pics of cables part on me. But I posted two photos above. you can see i routed the cables under the tank instead of under the frame as it originally existed.

Sounds about right haha. Did you replace the cables? Got any pics?

I have the 756 bar. You can also add upto 3-4 inches of spacer between your upper triple tree. It makes it extremely comfortable. Just so you know that out of the total time required to finish this project 40% is engineering stuff while 60% time would be spent just adjusting the handlebar etc to match the best place for you.

Thinking of going for the Lsl kit with the higher superbike bars, does anyone know if it's the ST1100 or ST1300 cables that fit a 5th gen?

I might consider fitting renthal 756 bars instead of the Lsl bars in the Lsl risers, I wonder if the 756 is much higher.

Sorry to bring back alive an old post but.........

What gauge assembly is this.. I am wanting to get something different for my 03 since im going to be using 08 to 11 cbr1000rr fairing on my bike and the gauge cluster is to wide to fit.. any info is greatly appreciated..

Thanks

Here's a quick how-to on adding real handlebars to your VFR which opens one up to countless combinations of reach, pullback, height, etc. I've done this mod to two VFR's and one SuperHawk since seeing that my former Bandit1200S had basically an identical setup stock from the factory. Actually it had larger holes for big rubber dampners to help with a bad buzz at highway speeds.

Although you can do the entire mod with the upper triple on the bike (I have), it's much easier in the long run to remove the fairing upper and the upper triple (referred to as the top bridge from here on) to give you more working room. Trust me. :wheel:


Here's what I have been using recently: TAG #4092 +5mm universal mounts, plus rubber spacers (probably from Lowes or somesuch), and lockwashers not included. NOTE: 4091 are standard height and 4093 are +10mm.
[image: IMG_9555.jpg]

Next, I drill the top bridge at the casting marks (how convenient) with an 1/2 inch drill bit. Old rubber inner tube around it to lessen scratches from the vice.

[image: IMG_9556.jpg]
[image: IMG_9557.jpg]
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Next, I add the mounts and bolt in the handlebar while it's still off the bike so I can cinch down the lock washers.
[image: IMG_9560.jpg]
[image: IMG_9559.jpg]



Then I remove the bar and the top sections of the mounts (don't skip this step) and slide the top bridge back on the bike. Tightened down the main nut (30mm) then loosely add the throttle assembly and switch gear to the handle bar and loosely bolt the handlebar back again into the lower mounts.

[image: IMG_9563.jpg]
[image: IMG_9564.jpg]
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Add the fairing upper and start adjusting everything to fit from lock to lock. Depending on the bar specs you may need to reroute throttle cables, brake lines, and/or switchgear which this renthal 755 bar on the VTEC require all the above but nothing new/longer was needed.


[image: IMG_9562.jpg]


Here's a couple of shots showing the difference in bar bends I've been using. The renthal 755 (upper bar) was on the vtec while the "straight" drag bar (lower bar) I'm using on the 4Gen RCBVFR. Pretty significant difference as you can see. Note the holes drilled to lock in the switchgear.

[image: IMG_9577.jpg]
[image: IMG_9576.jpg]

Here's a couple of comparison shots of a "daytona bend" (low rise) handlebar vs. stock clip ons on my old superhawk. This was the first bike I tried this mod on. The mounts on this one were very high (35mm) hence I got a flatter rise handlebar.
[image: IMG_7722-1.jpg]
[image: IMG_7731-1.jpg]

 

Thinking of going for the Lsl kit with the higher superbike bars, does anyone know if it's the ST1100 or ST1300 cables that fit a 5th gen?

I might consider fitting renthal 756 bars instead of the Lsl bars in the Lsl risers, I wonder if the 756 is much higher.

I installed a LSL kit.  The new ST1100 cables I used on my 5th gen are too tight and rub on the inside of the right fairing... I need to re-drill the handlebar alignment hole and try to re-align so their is no interference.  I would have liked to use slightly longer cables; the ST1100 are longer than stock 5th gen cables... I don't know if the ST1300 is a bit longer than the 1100.

This post is best post.

I've been pondering this for a while, and might actually go ahead with it this year. I already have the stock bars up about an inch with some Genmar risers, but it's not enough for me.
I'll either do the DIY option with drilling, or go the Deauville top yoke route - Will use ST1300 throttle cable for both and the Renthal 755 bar.

Again: SO USEFUL.

I fitted 20mm bar risers similar to genmars, happy enough so far but I might still go down this route at some stage.

Does the Deauville 650 top yoke fit a 5th gen?

Saoirse32

Does the Deauville 650 top yoke fit a 5th gen?

If i do this, i shall post pics and measurements.

Here's my 2¢, installing the bars on my Hawk, also switching to 1000RR forks, top triple isn't flat and paper thin, luckily there is a guy who likes to make things... like all new triple!

[image: 12512729_10209036392766838_1007452473606]

or another option is the triple on top of triple... on stock Hawk forks stick out above the clamp, plenty of room to attach this and not have to drill anything

[image: IMG_1350_zpsnqmvaqeo.jpg]

black anodized and installed

[image: DSCN0023_zps1gmovbce.jpg]