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A New Way To Gut Your 6th Gen Exhaust

93 posts Started 3 Apr 2008 Last recovered post 8 Jun 2012 Wayback Machine snapshot 20 Nov 2017

#1

Here's the bike that will receive the exhaust I have modified. I bought a spare exhaust off of VFRD member "jabandsnort" from further north in California in case I didn't like the modifications so it could be returned to stock. I believe the exhaust came off an 02 and it's going on an 07 RWB.

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Unfortunately I didn’t notice until after I had done the work on the 02 exhaust that the stock exhaust on my 07 has additional heat shields on the outside of the cans. I’m not really sure how much these help with heat dissipation, but I do use soft Cortech saddlebags on a regular basis and I wouldn’t want to melt them. At any rate if there is a noticeable difference in heat, the 07 exhaust may require surgery as well. Which means I’ll have an extra gutted exhaust for sale.

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The concept behind this was to bypass the baffles without removing them or cutting the end off the cans. (I had much grander plans to begin with but ultimately decided I was too lazy for any of them.) Essentially the gasses pass from the front of the muffler to the rear through a large tube, then they are circulated towards the front again through a smaller tube and finally towards the rear through the 2 smaller exhaust outlets. Someone drew a decent diagram of the inside of the muffler somewhere on this forum if you need a visual. This mod will bypass the extra routing and just travel straight from the front to the back of the exhaust through the one large tube.

So without further ado, here it is!

I'm going to assume that everyone either knows how to remove the exhaust and heat shields or can figure out how to do it by searching around this forum. So I will skip the removal and installation and just deal with the hack and slash part of it.

The first step was to take a hole saw with an inner diameter that just fits over the outlet pipe on the exhaust. Hole saws typically require some material for the center drill bit to go through that keeps the hole saw from “wandering”. However because the exhaust outlet fits inside the hole saw this is not necessary. That being said drill through the end cap around each exhaust outlet as shown. As long as you have a new sharp hole saw this should be fairly easy.

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The second step is to cut off the exhaust outlets as close as possible, it is not necessary to be flush with the end cap of the can however the next step is easier if these are a little shorter.

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The third step is by far the most tedious and will require some patience and a steady hand. I used a Dremel tool with a shaft extension and small cutoff wheels. Make sure to buy wheels that are small enough to fit inside the exhaust outlets. If they aren’t small enough, just wear them down on a scrap piece of steel until they fit inside. I went through about 5 for each outlet or 20 total, fortunately they are really cheap! I cut off the exhaust outlets about 1” into the cans but you could change this as I’m sure it would affect the sound quality in some way (not really sure what it would do?) One of the outlets is curved so it would probably be difficult to cut it off any further than 1” inside the can.

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Here is the finished product all deburred and ready to have the heat shields reinstalled.

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I’ve ridden back and forth to work a few times with them on, and I think I love the sound! It’s taking a little adjusting of my senses because over the last 12,000 miles I’ve become accustomed to the sewing machine quality of noise emitting from the machine beneath me. I’d be curious to hear the difference between what I’ve done and a fully gutted exhaust, so if there’s anyone in SoCal with a gutted exhaust send me a PM and let’s compare and contrast. From the sound clips I’ve heard of a gutted exhaust it certainly seems very similar, but it’s really hard to tell from an inexpensive video recording. In the meantime I’ll work on getting a video and sound clip.

Thanks for indulging me,

Jon

HERE'S THE CRAPPY VIDEO CLIP!! Pay no attention to the hideous Pontiac Aztec in the background, that belongs to my neighbor. I don't think I'm going to quit my job to become a videographer, but this gives an idea of what it sounds like. After living with this for about a week, I'm LOVIN IT! :blush: Staintunes may sound better, but for the price I'm not willing to find out.

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=2406929474949107971

Edited April 8, 2008 by JTG
#2

Hi Jon,

Nice looking concept. I have had a 'spare' set of pipes in the garage for a few months now.. just waiting to do a Gut job on them.. now this makes 3 different ways to do it.

I like your idea for the fact it requires no welding after the mod !! now I best go looking for an extension for my dremel... ;-)

looking forward to the sound clip..

cheers

matt

#3

Got any pics from after the reinstall on the bike..??

Im no welder either so it sounds like a great alternative...

Do you think it would be possible using the long dremel shaft to cut the internal pipe then using Really long needle nose twist n pull out the section of tubing to keep a completly stock look..

#4
marid2apterbiltGot any pics from after the reinstall on the bike..??

Im no welder either so it sounds like a great alternative...

Do you think it would be possible using the long dremel shaft to cut the internal pipe then using Really long needle nose twist n pull out the section of tubing to keep a completly stock look..

IMO, it would be easier to just cut the end off and remove the baffles. I'm no welder either but it is a simple job for a good welder. I got a set of pipes, had the welder cut the ends of and weld them back on.

Does the exhaust whistle? It seems like the exhaust would hit the the end of the can or the heat shield and make noise.

#5

I like the idea and the fact that most of the baffling is still in place so it will hopefully be a deeper/ throatier sound w/o being too loud! :unsure:

You may be able to play with sound quality if you added tube/ sleeve inserts into the larger holes so that they stick out past the end caps. Changing the length of how far the tube go into the muffler will allow you to custom tune the sound. Having them go in past the interior tubes may greatly improve the sound(or worsen it). :rolleyes:

#6
soichiro
marid2apterbiltGot any pics from after the reinstall on the bike..??

Im no welder either so it sounds like a great alternative...

Do you think it would be possible using the long dremel shaft to cut the internal pipe then using Really long needle nose twist n pull out the section of tubing to keep a completly stock look..

IMO, it would be easier to just cut the end off and remove the baffles. I'm no welder either but it is a simple job for a good welder. I got a set of pipes, had the welder cut the ends of and weld them back on.

Does the exhaust whistle? It seems like the exhaust would hit the the end of the can or the heat shield and make noise.

No, there is no whistling. Just the same throaty sound I believe you'll get from a full gutting. I am thinking that the end caps may blue a little from the heat however. I was mostly concerned that the full gutting would be too loud for my liking, and there's no reversing that procedure. This way if it's not loud enough, the next step will be to cut the ends off and perform the full gutting.

Baileyrock, yes I was planning on welding in some insert sleeves to play with the sound. I'm just waiting to buy a new Miller TIG welder, I sold my metal fab shop and all the equipment about 6 months ago and now I'm missing the luxury of having all that equipment sitting around whenever I want to build something.

As for doing this but keeping the stock look... I'm not sure, maybe? You'd have to see if there's a hole saw that fits in between the exhaust outlet and the short piece of pipe that acts as a shield around the exhaust outlet.

I'll take some more pictures of the exhaust on the bike and post that video this weekend.

Edited April 3, 2008 by JTG
#7
JTGBaileyrock, yes I was planning on welding in some insert sleeves to play with the sound. I'm just waiting to buy a new Miller TIG welder, I sold my metal fab shop and all the equipment about 6 months ago and now I'm missing the luxury of having all that equipment sitting around whenever I want to build something.

I'll take some more pictures of the exhaust on the bike and post that video this weekend.

Cool, I have a Miller MIG welder, but wish I had a TIG too. :rolleyes: :unsure: :fing02:

#8
JTGI am thinking that the end caps may blue a little from the heat however.

There is no "may" to it rather how much. :rolleyes:

#9
FotoMoto
JTGI am thinking that the end caps may blue a little from the heat however.

There is no "may" to it rather how much. +1.gif

True, I'm not really worried about it as the exhaust gasses really aren't carrying all that much heat by the time they reach the end of the cans. If they do turn blue... oh well, it will match the paint +1.gif

#10

Apparently my video camera is smarter than I am, I made a recording but I can't get it onto my computer :blink:

Anyway, until I figure that out here's another picture with the exhaust mounted on the bike.

[image: gallery_11529_3751_64427.jpg]

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#11
JTGApparently my video camera is smarter than I am, I made a recording but I can't get it onto my computer :blink:

???? LOL. Be quick about it. Chop-chop! LOL.

#12

JTG,

Interesting concept...hmmm...I'm a veteran of about 3 of the "cut and weld" gut jobs and I can see how this could save some serious hassle.

IIRC, the stock cans have three "chambers". The exhaust comes into the first chamber, runs through pipes to the rear chamber, then reverses to the center chamber, then reverses again out through the end of the cans. Your process, while not allowing a total "free flow" of the exhaust certainly has merit as now the exhaust doesn't have to make the two 180 degree turns within the can...very nice. I'd like to hear it next to a full gut job just for kicks to see if / how much different the sound is.

As for the hole saw to start, be careful that you don't try to saw through the weld around those end pipes. If you hit the weld and don't have the speed of your hole saw correct, you can actually work harden the weld and make it VERY tough on the hole saw teeth...I know this from experience. It looks like you cut yours outside of the weld, which is a better idea than me, who cut through it...

I like the look also.

Very creative...thumbs up.

#13

I finally managed to get the video clip downloaded :cool: It's at the end of the original post, enjoy!

#14

Other than the sound, have you noticed any difference in performance or fuel economy? I am considering trying this on my 02 but don't want to loose any power or precious gas milage.

Thanks for posting the pics and video!

Tim

#15
motorbiketimOther than the sound, have you noticed any difference in performance or fuel economy? I am considering trying this on my 02 but don't want to loose any power or precious gas milage.

Thanks for posting the pics and video!

Tim

So far, fuel economy and performance seem completely unchanged. If you're worried about it you can always try to find a spare stock exhaust on ebay, craigslist, or from someone on this board. I think I'm going to live with the change for about a month just to make sure everything is good before I sell the extra exhaust, so if you're willing to wait...

Personally I think you'll like it, and you should probably just go ahead and do it :biggrin:

Jon

#16
BaileyrockYou may be able to play with sound quality if you added tube/ sleeve inserts into the larger holes so that they stick out past the end caps. Changing the length of how far the tube go into the muffler will allow you to custom tune the sound. Having them go in past the interior tubes may greatly improve the sound(or worsen it). :biggrin:

A Valkyrie member has done something very similar to that with good results, of course its a different setup but the priniple is the same.

http://www.horseapple.com/Valkyrie/Valk_Pr...st__system.html

I drew this up last summer as a wheelchair jockey with too much time on my hands, based on a sketch from another thread here, I think its more or less accurate, might help visualize whats being done.

[image: gallery_9762_3391_108105.png]

exhaust internals

#17

:biggrin: on Lobsters post, done 3 guts so far, most time consuming part is rewelding.

Could you leave the pipes on the bike while doing this mod?

Next one I am going to try out your way, and we can do a side by side rev-fest, I have a gutted one sitting here ready to install on another members bike,,,but she hasn't called me back yet, not gonna mention any names, (mtbiker1), tongue.gif but if ya dont call soon, aussieinusa is in Tucson now,,,,,,,

#19
RivcykoSounds good.

BUT it is not a gut. Sounds like a throatier 6 hole drill.

http://media.putfile.com/vfrdrilled-6holes

Rain in the cans is a worry.

Riv I can hear a definite takataka rattle sound in that audiofile... is that a result of the bore? or did it do that beforehand?

Some water might get in there if caught in the rain... good point!!

Hmmmm

#20
RivcykoSounds good.

BUT it is not a gut. Sounds like a throatier 6 hole drill.

http://media.putfile.com/vfrdrilled-6holes

Rain in the cans is a worry.

True that! I've been thinking about water getting into the pipes, but since summer is almost here in southern California I don't really have to worry about that until next winter. At some point I plan on welding in sleeves so it looks more like the stock exhaust, and I want to see what that will do to the sound. Since water in the cans isn't an issue with the stock exhaust I'm hoping this will solve the problem.

#21

Watching this thread very closely.... bike sounds good compared to stock....

#22
cruzinazbut if ya dont call soon, aussieinusa is in Tucson now,,,,,,,

Yes I am :angry:

#23
AuspañolRiv I can hear a definite takataka rattle sound in that audiofile... is that a result of the bore? or did it do that beforehand?

Gutting and or drilling, and leaving the stock out tubes, helps to ping the sound.

JTGTrue that! I've been thinking about water getting into the pipes, but since summer is almost here in southern California I don't really have to worry about that until next winter. At some point I plan on welding in sleeves so it looks more like the stock exhaust, and I want to see what that will do to the sound. Since water in the cans isn't an issue with the stock exhaust I'm hoping this will solve the problem.

That's why yours sound throatier. A nice big hole.

That's why I did a large outlet gut.

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:angry:

#24

JTG: Can you get another sound clip with a couple of good twists on the throttle? I am most interested in how this sounds with a good rev...

Rob

#25
Ducatti20JTG: Can you get another sound clip with a couple of good twists on the throttle? I am most interested in how this sounds with a good rev...

Rob

I'll see if I can get my wife to get a video of a drive-by, and I'll rev it up to 10k or so. I didn't want to piss off the neighbors when I made the last video :biggrin:

#26
This is one great modification - simply amazing result. I have a different motorcycle waiting for me in my garage now. A mild-mannered sport touring bike has become an angry and guttural sounding street fighter. It�s not too loud, it�s just deep,menacing and throaty sounding - fuming at the pipes with barely surppressed aggression. I used to be rather fond of this bike and now I love it. Thank you very much for posting this thread. The sound of the V4 coming from my '06 VFR is extraordinary.
#27
Suretyagent, sound clip with a couple of revs?
#28
Well, I just finished this mod. It makes a huge difference. I sold my Ti-Leo Vince pipes a couple weeks ago due to some financial hardships and have wanted he sound back, but at a discount price. This definatly delivers. My only concern is that it is even louder than the Lv's, which I thought were on the verge of being too loud to begin with. SO I guess I may have to try some of the ol steel wool trick if it gets on my nerves. But other than that, very nice sound, pretty close to the LV's, not quite as deep, but louder.
#29

Thank you very much for posting this thread. The sound of the V4 coming from my '06 VFR is extraordinary.


You are very welcome, I am glad that others are able to enjoy this mod :biggrin: I'm hoping someone can post a better sound clip than I was able to manage.
#30
Great idea on this mod...looks much easier than a full gut, and I like the idea better than drilling.

Can someone please repost the diagram / sketch of the internals of the mufflers. I can't see the one that was posted earlier in the thread, for some reason.

I have an idea that I want to try, building off this mod, but would like a good idea of what the exact routing of the internal pipes / baffles are.

Thanks!
#31

[image: View Post]JTG, on Apr 11 2008, 01:24 PM, said:

[image: View Post]Ducatti20, on Apr 10 2008, 11:39 AM, said:

JTG: Can you get another sound clip with a couple of good twists on the throttle? I am most interested in how this sounds with a good rev...

Rob

I'll see if I can get my wife to get a video of a drive-by, and I'll rev it up to 10k or so. I didn't want to piss off the neighbors when I made the last video :rolleyes:


Just love that throaty sound! Really wanna hear a drive by.
#32
Well I did this mod last night. It took me almost four hours because I forgot to bring my good drill home from work. The only thing that I did differently was I did not use the extension on my dremil tool. I was able to reach in about an inch with out using the flexable extension thingy. Also, I did not completly remove the exhaust from the bike, I loosend it up and dropped it down about 6 or 8 inches.

The sound is good, it seems loud at low speeds and high revs but it really is not too loud. It was fun pulling into the lot at work this morning and barking the pipes upon arival. :)

Thanks for posing all the pics and info!
#33
I just finished this mod and all I can say is WOW! The exhaust sounds great. the only thing I did diffferent was I used a 1" bi-metal hole saw and cut out on the inside of the tips. :fing02:
#34

[image: View Post]FotoMoto, on Apr 3 2008, 09:55 AM, said:

[image: View Post]JTG, on Apr 3 2008, 11:40 AM, said:

I am thinking that the end caps may blue a little from the heat however.

There is no "may" to it rather how much. :warranty:



For anyone who's interested, I've put on 2100 miles so far and not even a hint of blue in the end caps. We'll see what happens when the summer heat really hits in August and September.
#35
I just finished this mod... O M G could someone please help me wipe this sh*t-eating-grin off my face??! Unbelievable sound.

I used the 1" hole saw method. Ran into a bit of difficulty with it as the 1" diameter of the hole saw didn't exactly fit inside the outer pipe like the thread implies. So, I used the dremel to cut the outer pipe off and meh, it looks just as good IMO. And so far I've only done the top 2 complete and the bottom 2 just the outer pipe. The sound is so good now. I could tell as soon as it fired up the first time that the beast has been awakened. Don't know if I'm going to do the bottom 2 completely now. I like it as is.

Took her out for a ride and haven't been able to stop smiling ever since! It's really that much better! You must do this mod! You must! LOL...




By the way, forgot to say this is the best $25 I've spent in a long time. :fing02:
#36
Last night I completed the mod by doing the bottom 2 pipes - and yet AGAIN I'm blown away by the difference in sound. It's an even deeper tone now with quite a bark when you blip the throttle. I rode the bike in to work this morning and right away can tell that it feels less restricted. There was no jolt when in the vtec range - just an apparent linear smooth acceleration with an overall more powerful pull. And loud. Not too loud - juuuuuuust right IMO. It is more than ever now a brand new beast.

After I showed a coworker what I had done he asked if doing something like this to the bike now requires some adjustments made --- will it run too lean now? Thought I'd run that by the professionals here at VFRD :) .
#37

[image: View Post]pbmax, on May 29 2008, 07:37 AM, said:

Last night I completed the mod by doing the bottom 2 pipes - and yet AGAIN I'm blown away by the difference in sound. It's an even deeper tone now with quite a bark when you blip the throttle. I rode the bike in to work this morning and right away can tell that it feels less restricted. There was no jolt when in the vtec range - just an apparent linear smooth acceleration with an overall more powerful pull. And loud. Not too loud - juuuuuuust right IMO. It is more than ever now a brand new beast.

After I showed a coworker what I had done he asked if doing something like this to the bike now requires some adjustments made --- will it run too lean now? Thought I'd run that by the professionals here at VFRD :) .


I'm no motorcycle mechanic but when I took the bike in for its 12k mile service I told them what I'd done to the exhaust and they said they would adjust accordingly. Adjust what? I don't know... Regardless it seems to be a lot smoother on/off throttle and vtec transition after the tune up. Maybe someone who's more mechanically inclined could explain what they adjusted... or maybe it's just my imagination, but either way I'm happy with the result!
#38
Maybe the adjustment in your chain has given you the improvements you speak of. I'm not sure there is anything else that can be "adjusted" short of plugging into your computer, or unplugging and capping the usual's.

Any sign of blue yet? Any water? Do your neighbors hate you now?

I would love to do it, sounds really nice...
#39

[image: View Post]jasonsmith, on Jun 26 2008, 11:23 AM, said:

Any sign of blue yet? Any water? Do your neighbors hate you now?

No blue yet, and I've ridden in 105deg weather so I'm guessing it's not going to blue, or if it does it will take a really long time. No problems with water, and honestly unless I park the thing in the rain I really don't think it will be much of a concern. The exhaust pressure will keep most of the rain out and any that does get inside will just boil off in the cans. My neighbors... well they haven't said anything but they also don't smile and wave as much as they used to :rolleyes:

You should do it! It's really easy and way cheaper than Staintunes, especially if you like the look of the stock cans :fing02:
#40
has anyone done this mod with the exhuast still mounted on the bike. would it be more difficult? I dont have much of a workbench in the garage and I dont think the wife would like it if I used the kitchen table.
#41

[image: View Post]mikesbike, on Jun 27 2008, 05:04 PM, said:

has anyone done this mod with the exhuast still mounted on the bike. would it be more difficult? I dont have much of a workbench in the garage and I dont think the wife would like it if I used the kitchen table.

You can't because you need to take off the end caps. Which means you need to take off the heat shields. Can't do that unless you drop it or take it off.

Well, I performed "JTG exhaust mod" today. I thought it was my best option since I don't know a welder and funds aren't available at the moment for a new system. It sounds excellent! I haven't had a chance to really open it up yet but so far I am very happy. Especially since it was free! I love free! :fing02: My only problem was going through those dremel cutoff discs. I don't know how he did it with 5 for each tip. I must have gone through 40 damn discs. Other than that it was pretty simple to do.
#42
I think I can afford this.
Thanks
#43

[image: View Post]mikesbike, on Jun 27 2008, 05:04 PM, said:

has anyone done this mod with the exhuast still mounted on the bike. would it be more difficult? I dont have much of a workbench in the garage and I dont think the wife would like it if I used the kitchen table.

You can do this with the exhaust on the bike. You'll still need to take the exhaust off of the bike to remove the heat shields, but you can put it back on while you do the mod. I did this when I performed the full gut. I also moved the tail light to avoid any damage while beating the hell out of the exhaust with a hammer and chisel.
#44

[image: View Post]trav72, on Jul 1 2008, 03:48 PM, said:

[image: View Post]mikesbike, on Jun 27 2008, 05:04 PM, said:

has anyone done this mod with the exhuast still mounted on the bike. would it be more difficult? I dont have much of a workbench in the garage and I dont think the wife would like it if I used the kitchen table.

You can't because you need to take off the end caps. Which means you need to take off the heat shields. Can't do that unless you drop it or take it off.

Well, I performed "JTG exhaust mod" today. I thought it was my best option since I don't know a welder and funds aren't available at the moment for a new system. It sounds excellent! I haven't had a chance to really open it up yet but so far I am very happy. Especially since it was free! I love free! :fing02: My only problem was going through those dremel cutoff discs. I don't know how he did it with 5 for each tip. I must have gone through 40 damn discs. Other than that it was pretty simple to do.



A steady hand, I used to be a welder and a machinist. There are also different kinds of cutoff discs some of which are more fragile but have a smaller kerf than others that are reinforced.
#45

[image: View Post]jasonsmith, on Jun 26 2008, 02:23 PM, said:

Maybe the adjustment in your chain has given you the improvements you speak of. I'm not sure there is anything else that can be "adjusted" short of plugging into your computer, or unplugging and capping the usual's.

Any sign of blue yet? Any water? Do your neighbors hate you now?

I would love to do it, sounds really nice...


I've put probably 2-3k miles on the bike now since doing this mod, and I'm still very impressed. When I first posted after doing the mod, I felt that it was a little loud, but after a couple hundred miles, I must have just gotten used to it. Has a very nice growl. I don't have an issue with it being too loud at all anymore.

As far as the blueing though, soon after doing the mod, the end caps of my pipes definatly got a goldish tint to them. Its not real "blueing" per se, but the starting of it. But over 2k miles, it has not gotten worse, or started turning to blue at all. In fact, I prefer the goldish hue on my 06 black bike. I wish the rest of the exhaust was the same color. I tried to snap some pics, but the goldness dosen't show up. It's pretty faint, but definaly a slight gold hue. Anyone else get this?
#46

[image: View Post]Higgin, on Jul 2 2008, 03:28 PM, said:

I've put probably 2-3k miles on the bike now since doing this mod, and I'm still very impressed. When I first posted after doing the mod, I felt that it was a little loud, but after a couple hundred miles, I must have just gotten used to it. Has a very nice growl. I don't have an issue with it being too loud at all anymore.

It was the same for me. Kinda loud at first but seems better after a few thousand miles. The sound may have changed or I got used to it. I've heard some people say it sounds deeper over time.
#47
I was sitting in the garage Wednesday night looking at my bikes .... from out of nowhere I opened the tool box and starting removing stuff from the VFR !
With the Exhaust system sitting there wide open I decided I was going for it .

What I did was super clean and something I haven't read here .

So here's what I did ....

After all the bling tin is removed the pipes you can see the factory weld at the tip of the pipe . The weld thats covered by the chrome TIP cover !
I grabbed the sawzall and cut along tight to the weld on the side of the weld close to the seat !
The Tip came off leaving the inner can with the baffles exposed . that weld also holds the inner can to the outer can !!!!
for the hell of it I grabbed a set of linesman pliers and pulled on one of the tubes .... LOOSE ! Hummm ... I pulled a little harder and the inner can came right out !!!!
No beating or pounding !!! did the same on the other side .
What holds the inner can in at the bottom is a fine wire mesh with maybe a rivit ?? not sure ... and the weld at the back of the pipe !
Maybe someone a little more computer savoy can make a diagram .. or maybe there's a pic somewhere to show what I did ... I should have taken pics .

So ... one nice clean cut CLOSE to the factory weld and the inner can slides out ! Took about 10 min. to do both sides !
Dropped off the pipes to a bud who will weld the end cap back on .... install all the bling tin back with no muss or fuss ! DONE !
#48

[image: View Post]Sbk12rs, on Jul 4 2008, 04:09 AM, said:

I was sitting in the garage Wednesday night looking at my bikes .... from out of nowhere I opened the tool box and starting removing stuff from the VFR !
With the Exhaust system sitting there wide open I decided I was going for it .

What I did was super clean and something I haven't read here .

So here's what I did ....

After all the bling tin is removed the pipes you can see the factory weld at the tip of the pipe . The weld thats covered by the chrome TIP cover !
I grabbed the sawzall and cut along tight to the weld on the side of the weld close to the seat !
The Tip came off leaving the inner can with the baffles exposed . that weld also holds the inner can to the outer can !!!!
for the hell of it I grabbed a set of linesman pliers and pulled on one of the tubes .... LOOSE ! Hummm ... I pulled a little harder and the inner can came right out !!!!
No beating or pounding !!! did the same on the other side .
What holds the inner can in at the bottom is a fine wire mesh with maybe a rivit ?? not sure ... and the weld at the back of the pipe !
Maybe someone a little more computer savoy can make a diagram .. or maybe there's a pic somewhere to show what I did ... I should have taken pics .

So ... one nice clean cut CLOSE to the factory weld and the inner can slides out ! Took about 10 min. to do both sides !
Dropped off the pipes to a bud who will weld the end cap back on .... install all the bling tin back with no muss or fuss ! DONE !

You just did the full exhaust gut from what it sounds like, there are lots of posts and pictures with sound clips if you spend a little time looking around. Enjoy the sound :fing02:
#49
I just finished this mod on my 02 and I love the sound!!!!. The only thing I had trouble with was with the rotary tool. I started using the cheep cut off discs that came with it and all they did was break all the time. I bought some heavy duty discs and had no problem after that. It is very worth while to buy the heavy duty discs.

Very good thread, thanks
#50
JTG-

Many thanks for your posts about this modification. I did the mod on my '06 and I love it!!! People that have heard it cannot believe it is an 800. Thanks again.

Scott
#51
Well, I decided to perform this mod tonight! I've got the exhaust off, the holes drilled around the tips, and the tips cut pretty close to the cans -- but cutting inside the pipes is a complete paint in the ass. Is there a "trick" to it?

Because:

1) I cant see inside the pipe where Im cutting,
2) I have to grind the wheels down to fit inside the pipe, which takes a while, and
3) Once have it ground to the right size, I get about 10 seconds of cutting before its worn down to the nubs and I need to start over, and usually I've started in a place where I didnt cut the previous time.

Any pointers, here?

EDIT: I don't have to work tomorrow so I just decided to pull a quasi-all nighter and go out in the garage and wrench. I dont really know if there is a secret after all this, but I know that I burned through approx. 30 "heavy duty" Dremel cutting wheels. I used both the brown and the grey ones, and it seemed like the grey ones lasted a couple seconds longer before inevitably ending up as dust or breaking. I found that the original exhaust tips, after being cut off and held with a needle-nose plier, make pretty good pieces of scrap for wearing down new wheels so they fit inside the inner pipe.

Also, you don't need a Dremel extension for this, the standard Dremel head works just fine. Just make sure you keep track of how far you're inserting it into the pipe when you start cutting -- I found that inserting it so that the inner pipe was even with the "back side" of the locking nut on the Dremel head worked pretty good, and served to give me a rough idea of where my cut line was. I would work in one direction -- first the top until I felt the wheel break through, then the sides, then the bottom. By the time I felt them all break through, another couple circular motions seemed to free the pipe enough to allow you to use a pair of pliers and some elbow grease and yank it out.

After all this and getting my bike put back together -- I have to say I agree with everyone else in the thread who has done this modification. The results for about ~$30 in parts are great! I haven't had a chance to ride it yet, but a cursory 4AM neighbor-waking crank sounded awesome!

EDIT 2: I have pictures if anybody is interested, but they're basically what's already been posted. If you're on the fence about this one, and you have an afternoon/evening to kill -- go for it.

EDIT 3: I've put about 40 miles on the bike with this exhaust mod completed -- sounds great! Just loud enough to be noticeable but not annoying, definitely throatier, a little punchier, and with a nice growl. The videos you see/hear don't really do it justice.
#52
Like how you did the mod, was wondering if your bike is now running lean/rich? Do you think you will need a power comander? I have the same bike (25thA) and am tired of the "sewing mach" sound but like the way the OEM exhaust looks so this mod is something I am looking forward to do. Having said that I am a little worried how the bike will run afterward, that is why I asked about the power comander.

Great looking bike BTW ;)
SoCal :cool:
#53
To answer your question, no, it will not need a Power Commander and will run just as smooth as it always has (at least, mine has -- YMMV). I can't tell that it pulls any stronger or weaker than it did before, nor that it's affected how smoothly the VTEC transition occurs, only that it sounds a lot better.
#54
Thanks for the info will be doing the mod this weekend without worry now!
Thanks again

Don
#55
Hey Jon

Did the mod yesterday, was very happy with the sound. It doesn't sound stock but it is not real loud either. :biggrin: I noticed my bike did not start up quick like normal the first time, wonder if the computer had to reset???? I did notice what seemed to be a small increase in power. After the ride and this morning the bike started up just fine.

Ok here was the downside, my hole saw could not cut thru so I sort of cut the end of the can off. I have two welders and thought I could use my wire fed to weld it back together.......forget it you need a tig........even my crappy low volt wire=fed burned thru. I wanted to put this in so others would not make the same mistake I did. I am not a pro welder but have built trailers and welded friends stuff back together anyway ended up "spot" welding and putting "steel puddy" ( not jb weld the stuff you kneed) except for the smell (which I hope will go away after a few rides) the job came out great.

Thanks for the email Jon, I was really debating on if I should do the mod. I am happy I did! :biggrin:

Don
#56
I'm glad all those that have tried this are enjoying it :fing02:

As a follow up now that I've lived with this for about a year, I'm still quite happy with the results and I've never had any problem with water in the exhaust having ridden in the rain several times over the winter. Also the end caps never did blue but they have a very subtle bronze patina to them which doesn't offend me. If it did bother you I'm sure a little buffing and polishing would take the color out.

Despite really liking this mod, it was sort of a pacifier until I got a TIG welder so I could perform my complete exhaust overhaul :cool: Having just acquired a Miller Syncrowave 250 TIG today I'm going to start working on my new exhaust and once that's done I will post this exhaust up for sale if anyone wants it.

Cheers,
Jon

PS; Don (Ctdrac) if you'd like me to TIG your end caps in place I have about 18 years of welding experience
#57
I just completed my 2008. I took it out for 150 miles today. WOW!!! what a difference.. The people on the 60 FWY can hear me know.. Thanks Jon for the great idea!!
#58
Im going to try my hand at it today I think......a little more sound is what i'm after not performance at this point. Great job! Thanks!
#59
I have to say that I did this over the weekend and it is so Worth It! It has a great sound and really make that shit eating grin come to your face. It is a good sound and it turns heads. It really has a good growl to it. Thanks alot for the step by step on this. :biggrin:
#60
THX for the info on how to do this! WOW!!! the sound is just incredible! and now people turn the heads when i pass...loll

ived put 3 videos on youtube for those who are interrested under the user name of VFRinterceptor

the only thing i have notice since the mod is that the bike as a little more shakes...has anyone noticed that?

i have more ideas on how to do it and keep a full OEM look...ill have some pictures soon, cause ill do it on my friends VFR flatback and it will be my winter project on mine
#61

[image: View Post]JTG, on Apr 3 2008, 06:53 PM, said:

Here's the bike that will receive the exhaust I have modified. I bought a spare exhaust off of VFRD member "jabandsnort" from further north in California in case I didn't like the modifications so it could be returned to stock. I believe the exhaust came off an 02 and it's going on an 07 RWB.


A HUGE thanks to JTG for these instructions and advice!!

I started the procedure yesterday afternoon on my 2006 VFR and finished it off this morning. At around midday I had everything back together, wheeled the bike out of the garage and tentatively hit the ignition wondering what I was in for.... OH MY GOD! I spent the whole afternoon on a ride with a grin on my face the entire time. The symphony of sound that is released now that the pipes are opened up is quite a transformation.

Thank you, thank you, thank you!
#62
After reading through the whole thread, I am wondering if anyone has done a Db check on the mod compared to stock? Say from next to the pipes, 25 feet away and then maybe 100 feet away? Some places have Db legislation or proposed legislation and it would be helpful for those folks to know what the results might be. If I can find a cheap extra set of stock cans I may do this, but I don't like making permanent mods without a back up to replace it with when it comes to items necessary to pass safety inspection here.
#63

[image: View Post]motorhead1977, on Jul 19 2009, 05:20 AM, said:

After reading through the whole thread, I am wondering if anyone has done a Db check on the mod compared to stock? Say from next to the pipes, 25 feet away and then maybe 100 feet away? Some places have Db legislation or proposed legislation and it would be helpful for those folks to know what the results might be. If I can find a cheap extra set of stock cans I may do this, but I don't like making permanent mods without a back up to replace it with when it comes to items necessary to pass safety inspection here.

I have a db meter, and I've put this exhaust back on the bike so if I can find a minute this week I will post up the numbers for you.
#64

[image: View Post]nzcanuck, on Jul 19 2009, 03:21 AM, said:

[image: View Post]JTG, on Apr 3 2008, 06:53 PM, said:

Here's the bike that will receive the exhaust I have modified. I bought a spare exhaust off of VFRD member "jabandsnort" from further north in California in case I didn't like the modifications so it could be returned to stock. I believe the exhaust came off an 02 and it's going on an 07 RWB.


A HUGE thanks to JTG for these instructions and advice!!

I started the procedure yesterday afternoon on my 2006 VFR and finished it off this morning. At around midday I had everything back together, wheeled the bike out of the garage and tentatively hit the ignition wondering what I was in for.... OH MY GOD! I spent the whole afternoon on a ride with a grin on my face the entire time. The symphony of sound that is released now that the pipes are opened up is quite a transformation.

Thank you, thank you, thank you!



So glad you like the change :biggrin: It's hard to argue with the results for so little effort and so little money, happy riding :fing02:
#65

[image: View Post]motorhead1977, on Jul 20 2009, 12:20 AM, said:

After reading through the whole thread, I am wondering if anyone has done a Db check on the mod compared to stock? Say from next to the pipes, 25 feet away and then maybe 100 feet away? Some places have Db legislation or proposed legislation and it would be helpful for those folks to know what the results might be. If I can find a cheap extra set of stock cans I may do this, but I don't like making permanent mods without a back up to replace it with when it comes to items necessary to pass safety inspection here.

I don't have a DB meter and I did wonder how loud it would turn out to be since as you say the procedure is not reversible. In New Zealand there are restrictions on how audible the exhaust can be that is legal for the road.

It is definitely louder (of course) however I don't think it is to the point of being obnoxious/not legal. I will find out eventually though when the bike is due for the next warrant of fitness. The video posted by JTG and the other videos that another post mentions being on YouTube VFR Exhaust Video Comparisons are a great indicator of the deeper rumble sound that emits from the pipes.

Can't say I really liked the sound of video #2 with no pipes at all!
#66
Just wanted to say a big "thank you" to JTG for this write-up :fing02:

I carried out the mod a few days back on my UK 2002 Vtec and managed to actually get on the bike today - what a difference! The noise is just lovely and the mod lets that fantastic V4 thump out without deafening you or annoying the neighbours too much ;)

I'd been looking for a decent mod that didn't involve completely gutting the rear cans as I use my bike daily (80 miles / 2 hours travelling) and really didn't want to compromise comfort too much. This route has totally delivered the noise I was looking for :cool:
#67
Just completed this mod, absolutly love it. I found diamond cutting wheels that worked great and fit in the exhaust without having to grind them down first. I notice they stop cutting well after a few minutes but managed to complete the task with only 6 of them. Just be patient, cut through one side, then work your way round. please note they are 15,000 rpm max, some rotary tools are capable of 30,000+ rpms.

link to wheels w/ mandrel
http://aztoolguy.com/fo6dicuwhkit.html

extra wheels
http://aztoolguy.com/fo6dicuwh4pi.html
#68
So, I'm really excited about this mod (as I'm not a welder), but a buddy of mine said that he thought this procedure would cause the exhaust to vibrate then possibly break. Have any of you guys had any problems ? Does anybody think that it could cause any problems ? Course if it did, then it would give me an excuse to buy some Leo Vince carbon fiber cans. But a little short on cash right now.

Oh yeah, "Hi". New kid on the block. Got about 2000 miles on my 06 VFR and absolutely loving it. :biggrin:
#69
Just completed this mod. It took me about an hour start to finish and I used a 1-1/2" hole saw for a nice big hole and ended up using 16 cutoff disks including the ones I broke before they went in the hole. It took 3 disks per hole to cut it enough to twist it and pull it out. The sound is wonderful in my garage, however it is -3F outside and half a foot of fresh snow so all I can do is ride circles in the shop for now, but it sounds good doing that. I can't wait for a thaw to get out and try it on actual streets.

Thanks for the idea.

George
#70
After lurking the forum for a number of months, I thought I'd better sign up and say a big thanks to JTG for his great post. I did the mod on my 6 gen today in about 3 or so hours, and am absolutely in love with the end result. Couple of things I'd like to add that I think may make it easier....

- If you can't find any posts on how to remove your heat shields (like I couldn't) that thing at the back on the top with a bit of rubber in it is actually an allen bolt. Remove the rubber bit and unscrew.

- The hole saw size to fit over the outside of the pipes was 32mm in metric speak. I think this equates to 1 1/4". Be careful how big the internal diameter of the hole saw bit is though, as the better brands tend to have thicker wall diameter which makes it a little squeezy on the pipe.

- I angled grinded down the welds on the pipes before I took to it with the hole saw.

- If you are using the el-cheapo dremel cut off discs, putting two on at a time seemed to cut a lot better and got more use before swpping over to new ones. I seemed to be breaking ingle discs before I had used it all, and two side by side gave a bit more rigidity. I used about 8 or 10 per pipe of the el-cheapos.

I noted a lot of posters mentioned getting water in the pipes with this mod. I'm no engineer, but I'm pretty sure if you're riding at the time, there is sufficient heat in the exhaust system to burn off the water before it becomes an issue.

I rate this mod as two thumbs up. :fing02: :fing02:
#71

[image: View Post]BrissyVFR, on 05 January 2010 - 05:19 AM, said:

After lurking the forum for a number of months, I thought I'd better sign up and say a big thanks to JTG for his great post.

Welcome to VFRD Brissy, was that you on OzVFR asking about this? (user id "Whitie" I'm "v4racer" there - 'The Phantom' is actually my bike).

Good tip regarding doubling up the cutting wheels, might use that for some work I'm doing tonight :fing02:

PS - go have a look at what JTG has since done to his mufflers!
#72
Phantom, that wasn't me but just replied in that same thread. Yeah, I saw the "new" ones and would love to have the meachanical apptitude he has. And maybe a few of the tools too.
#73
Welcome BrissyVFR from another VFRD bloke from Brisneyland - cheers!

Think I need to have a look at the OzVFR site you guys are talking about!
#74
I Did the non weld mod about a year ago, like it but wanted it a little louder. So about 6 months ago I took a 24 inch 3/8" drill bit and drilled 4 holes in the backside of the canister. In other words where you have already removed the exhaust exit tips, take a long drill bit and drilled one hole per exit port(4) into the back of the canister. About 15 decibels louder but not as loud as a fully gutted exhaust.
#75
A friend and I did the same 6th gen full gut. I made larger outlets. He kept his stock. There is a diffirence in sound from just a little bit larger hole, it sounds deeper to me but also maybe a bit louder.
#76
I am looking to mod my 02's pipes this way as well, but before I do, I have one question. Looking at the photos, I see each of the four outlets has a smaller pipe leading to it from the mid-chamber of the pipe. I would like to do this mod, but keep the extended outer pipes like it has stock. Would it work just the same to use the hole-saw around the outer pipes, then cut the small inner pipe just like you did, but instead of leaving the big holes, cut the vestigal little bit of the small pipe off the outer pipe, and re-weld the outer pipe back into the end of the can? I figure this will still give me plenty of unabated airflow straight through the muffler like the original mod does, as long as I leave a gap between the small inner pipe and the large outer one.
#77

[image: View Post]Nelso90, on 13 January 2010 - 08:41 PM, said:

I am looking to mod my 02's pipes this way as well, but before I do, I have one question. Looking at the photos, I see each of the four outlets has a smaller pipe leading to it from the mid-chamber of the pipe. I would like to do this mod, but keep the extended outer pipes like it has stock. Would it work just the same to use the hole-saw around the outer pipes, then cut the small inner pipe just like you did, but instead of leaving the big holes, cut the vestigal little bit of the small pipe off the outer pipe, and re-weld the outer pipe back into the end of the can? I figure this will still give me plenty of unabated airflow straight through the muffler like the original mod does, as long as I leave a gap between the small inner pipe and the large outer one.

#78
My 2 cents on this topic. I just completed this Mod and cannot wait to start her up. Here is how I did it to hopefully save you some time as grinding down the ceramic discs is a pain in the a$$. I thought I woulk also share what I learned as I did this. First, when drilling out the end caps, use lots of oil and stop constantly. I was able to use one hole drill for all 4 holes. I am guessing that using lots of oil and not being in a hurry helped (which is not met:)). Also, I think that grinding down the welds holding the outer pipes in place helped (someone mentioned that earlier in this post). 2nd, I would use the ceramic disks to cut off the outer portion of the extension tubes that come out of the exhaust (once you drill around the pipe and need to cut it off so that you can go in and cut off the pipe from inside the exhaust). What I would do is cut on the outer portion of the pipe to shorten it and when the disk was small enough to fit into the inner pipe I would pull off that ceramic disk and get a new one and continue cutting. This allowed me to then go to my pile of used disks to go cut off the inside of the pipe quickly as I did not need to grind down each disk to fit into the pipe. One note, I would not cut off all of the pipes on the outside before drilling with the hole saw as having the pipe in place helped to guide the hole saw when drilling. I hope that makes sense. I finally got into this system after the removal of the first end pipe and it quickened the process. Lastly, be carful with that inner pipe (the small one's). One of mine was loose when I was finished, because I was too hard on it. In the end I ended up moving it back and forth until the weld broke on the other side of the baffle. If this happends to you there is a weld joint on the other side of this pipe behind the baffle. I had to put a regular screwdriver at the point where the small pipe goes through the baffle and hammer in a few places to open the hole up a bit before it could pull the loose pipe out. Not pretty and it took me an hour to figure this out, but I got the pipe out. I have the pipe on and cannot wait to hear how it sounds. Thanks for everyone's suggestions they were a huge help. Looks good, now just need to fire it up and make sure that I do not have any problems with hot exhaust entering the end cap and coming throught he openings on the sides of the end cap and overheating the tailight. If anyone has had any problems with this let me know.
#79
I just ran home at lunch to fire the bike up after this mod. Sounds incredible. I had an 03 years ago and spent the money on Staintune's. This sounds just as good in my opinion and quite a bit cheaper at $30 compared to the $800 + I spent on the Staintunes. Thanks for everyone's posts on tips and tricks!
#80

[image: View Post]The Phantom, on 08 January 2010 - 01:39 AM, said:

[image: View Post]BrissyVFR, on 05 January 2010 - 05:19 AM, said:

After lurking the forum for a number of months, I thought I'd better sign up and say a big thanks to JTG for his great post.

hi, I'm whitie.. No I haven't done this yet and I wish I still lived in brizzy

Welcome to VFRD Brissy, was that you on OzVFR asking about this? (user id "Whitie" I'm "v4racer" there - 'The Phantom' is actually my bike).

Good tip regarding doubling up the cutting wheels, might use that for some work I'm doing tonight :fing02:

PS - go have a look at what JTG has since done to his mufflers!

#81
Just started this mod last night. Got to fiddling around in the garage and wondered how hard the exhaust would be to lower and get the heat sheilds off to do this mod.

Next thing I know I've got the cans on my workbench and I'm cutting away.

I didn't have any problems at all with the hole saw, I was through the endcap in about 2 minutes with a battery drill. I did dip the teeth of the hole saw in some oil though.

+1 to what Hipster said about using the Dremel disks to cut off the outside pipes till they are the proper size and then using them for the inside of the pipes. Seems to be working well.

Work in progress...
[image: Posted Image]

After a little more cutting....

[image: Posted Image]


I've also discovered that if you use the reinforced Dremel cutting discs, you can use a pair of wire cutters to trim them down into a stop sign shape so that they fit into the inner pipes. Is it safe? I dunno, probably not. But I figire if the disc flies apart it will do so 2 inches deep in the inner pipe, and gloves and safety glasses should offer reasonable protection from anything that makes it outside. So far, I've used three of them like that, and haven't had a problem. They actually seem to cut better than the worn down to size discs.
#82
I did the 1" hole saw mod to the pipes this past winter, but it has taken me a while to get a video done. I made a general vid showing the whole bike, so the intro has some pics, but after that, it's pure V4 music! 99.9999% of my riding (even on the track) is below VTEC, and the sound I get coming back to me off the ground when I'm way over in a turn is absolutely fantastic! I even had a guy on a 4th gen at the last track day I was at say it's about the best sounding VFR he'd ever heard (Of course, he could ride circles around me!). Very throaty and nice below 6800, but it gets a healthy snarl above the transition. Watch in HD, the sound is better! Mike
#83
Well I just did this mod and it is one amazing sound. But unfortunately I think it may be just a tad too loud for me! If I could drop it a few db it would be absolutely perfect. Would anyone know of a way to do this? I live in a quiet residential area and I have the upmost respect for my elderly retired neighbours. I have fallen in love with the sound so I don't think I could go back to stock, but would really love to know of a way to just drop the db level down a bit.

Any help would be appreciated, thanks!
#84
Can you just take the pretty end caps off, then cut off the end of the mufflers then re-allen attach the pretty end caps?
#86
Well after wanting to do this for some time, I accomplished it today. And I gotta say "It's great!"
A few observations:

- I did the outside cut. That required a 1 3/8" hole saw (35mm).
- I bought a hole saw at Home Depot ( Milwaukee) and it was crap. Looked to be good quality. Didn't even make one hole cut before getting dull. Returned for refund.
- Bought a cheaper looking one at Lowes (Lenox) and it actually did a really good job and is sharp enough to do more.
- I used a regular Dremel with the arbor spaced out a bit and kept a light directed down the tube so I could see what I was doing.
- The cutoff disks your want are the no. 420 disks vs. the 409 disks
- And I used the 420 disks to clean up the edges of the sawed holes and the ends of the tubes inside.
- It's a pretty dusty operation. Wear eye protection and a dust mask. I didn't and regret it.

I made a cellphone before/after vid and will try to post later.

Coaster
#87
Nelso90, on 07 August 2010 - 07:47 PM, said: I did the 1" hole saw mod to the pipes this past winter, but it has taken me a while to get a video done. I made a general vid showing the whole bike, so the intro has some pics, but after that, it's pure V4 music! 99.9999% of my riding (even on the track) is below VTEC, and the sound I get coming back to me off the ground when I'm way over in a turn is absolutely fantastic! I even had a guy on a 4th gen at the last track day I was at say it's about the best sounding VFR he'd ever heard (Of course, he could ride circles around me!). Very throaty and nice below 6800, but it gets a healthy snarl above the transition. Watch in HD, the sound is better! Mike In this video, it looks totally stock. So to make sure I understand, you bought a 1" hole saw and cut inside the large holes, then dremeled inside to remove the tips? I'm a bit confused, if you can't tell. I want my bike to still be relatively quiet, but I want a bit more throatiness.... I think your method would be perfect.
#88
Slight bump.



I found a gutted exh system in the local for sale ads. The CO followed JD�s instructions, and from what I gather, sold his bike with a stock system and kept the gutted exh when he bought another VFR. Looks like that is not going to happen, so he is selling it (drilled out 2 of the 4 holes). My questions.

1. after 1-2 years of those of you who did the change, still happy with it. Notice any changes in performance or��. ?

2. to remove the rear system, do you really have to remove the rear plastic like the oem manual says. I have the givi mounts on and really do not want to remove all that again. once was more than enough. Almost looks like that you can unbolt it, remover rear tire and remove it. Or am I just wishing it was that easy.



Thanks for any info / input.



G


#89
I did this mod yesterday and the sound difference is exactly what I was hoping for. I modified the process a bit.  I used a reciprocating saw (sawzall) to cut off the tips level with the end of the can after I had drilled the holes. (I used a 1.5" holesaw since I had one.  It was a lenox brand bi-metal one I got at Lowes).  I started using a dremel tool as described and I quickly got bored with the slow progress.  Since I had the saw out, I decided to give it a try.  I wiggled one of the inner pipes off-center so it was out of the way and left a space big enough to insert the saw blade and cut off the other pipe.  Once the first one was cut, it was very easy to cut the second one.  It took no time at all and if I had not been too lazy to get a fresh blade after lopping off the tips, it would have been even faster.

One warning-the sawzall blade did knick up the end cover of the exhaust but it is not visible once the decorative end cap is on.
#90
I have been riding around with this for a few days and I feel like I got a new toy.  This sound is exactly why I bought a VFR.  Holy cow!  Even just accelerating slowly away from an in-town redlight in traffic sounds awesome.  I can't wait to get out on it this weekend and give it a real go.
#91
I know this is an old topic, but finally got around to doing this mod.  Amazing sound for a cheap price!  It seems to have smoothed out my throttle jerkiness in conjuntion with de-pair and de-flapper.  I used a 1 3/8" hole saw and cut the pipes off around 3/4 of an inch into the pipe.  I would say it is on the same level or a little more quiet than my early Two Brothers slip on on my '99 was.  Still, it is enough to let the V-4 roar!

Edit:

The only other noticable difference is the engine temp while cruising.  It seems to be around 190-200 degrees where it would normally be 170-180.  My theory is uncorking it leaned it out a bit causing it to run warmer.  I guess I will find out if thats a problem when it hits 110 degrees this summer :/
#92
hi,

when it comes to mechanics I am an absolute noob, but i really want to try this mod esp since it saves me 800+ on exhaust.

From what i gather by reading through all the post is these are the two main items i need in addition to the dremmel tool

1. Hole saw: >> i hope this is good enough http://www.amazon.co...39034932&sr=8-6

2. dremel disk >> and how about this http://www.amazon.co...39036073&sr=1-2

I guess we have to take the exhaust off and there is no way around it. I searched and couldnt find any threads regarding taking off the exhaust


as i understand this is how to proceed

Take exhaust off bike >> remove the heat shields and end cap>> use the hole saw to cut around the pipe >> use the disk to cut off the pipe which makes it smaller >> once its smaller use it to go inside and cut inside the pipe>> yank it out>> reassemble >> switch on the bike and enjoy the symphony and immerse in bliss

plz advice the noob what i am missing
#93
I drilled out the top two exhausts with this method about a year and 5,000 miles ago, and have not had any problems. Sounds so good, I want a little bit more. So my question is, has anyone gone from two hole-sawed exhaust ports to four, and was there a big change in sound? I'd like to get just a bit more throatiness and growl, but I'm worried if I do all four it will be a huge change, as big as from stock to two.
End of thread · 93 posts recovered Wayback Machine snapshot 20 Nov 2017