not getting hot enough

Riding home tonight on the highway at 70mph for about 20min when I seen that the temp gauge was reading 148F, with the outside temp at 55F. Im guessing the thermastat has stuck open? Does this sound like the first thing to check. 11,xxx on bike.

if u were not in traffic that sounds about right thats a bit on the cool side air temp.

As a veteran of the t-stat issue I can confirm that whatever the temp outside, however cold (I came into work today and it was 5C, thank goodness for gerbing heated kit!!)- your water temp gauge should read no lower than 75C. If it's colder after 5-10 mins of warm up, it's stuck open for sure.

How hard was it to replace the t-stat? And how many times have you (vfrsteve) replaced yours. 11k on the bike and im having to replace t-stats :angry:

do a search. there are several how to threads on replacing it. not terribly hard, but a little inconvenient.

plenty of bikes with no tstat issues, but it definitely is NOT an uncommon issue. 27k, no tstat issue on mine.

Could indeed be a stuck thermostat. There are some indictations that Honda shipped the sixth gen with a coolant that clogs the thermostat wax element. I've heard of several riders that were able to get the thermostat working properly again after submerging it in some boiling G12+ coolant. As it is not very easy to replace the thermostat you may get away with just replacing the coolant. G12+ and G12++ coolant is compatible with G12 and G11 coolant. Both are also free of harmfull particles like silicate. The only problem may be finding the right bottle as the manufacturers made a little bit of a mess with labeling the containers and the original G12 coolant doesn't mix with G11. In fact it can be pretty harmfull for the cooling system when those two get mixed, so make sure you get the right coolant. I don't think the original G12 is still being sold but carefully read the label on the container. If the bottle says G12+ your OK. If it says G12 but the label also mentions you can mix it with G11, you're OK too (it's G12+). If it just says G12, skip that one! Another plus for the G12+ coolant is that it is a long life coolant so no need to replace it within five years instead of two.

[image: View Post]baldyjoe, on 06 November 2009 - 03:50 AM, said:

if u were not in traffic that sounds about right thats a bit on the cool side air temp.

That's what I was going to say as mine stays around 148's when the air temps are low 50's to low 30's, so does my friend's new leftover 07. Haven't tried it in anything colder than 30 since I have no heated gear.

I've only had one failure in 30,000 miles of riding (touch wood), I had a dealer replace it as I was having some work done to the bike anyway, apparently it's a pig to get to though :dry:

I think it's a common fault of all VFR's as I've had a 5th gen do it too, although not so noticable as you don't have that fancy VTEC stuff.

Once I had mine replaced the bike felt so much better, it's worth doing

Mostly good responses above, but even in freezing temps your engine should never drop below 165-168F.

I had to replace my '04's t-stat at 19k mi. I noticed while riding in 30F temps the engine temp dropped below 150, and as I kept riding it went down into the 130s. When I stopped for a couple minutes the temp went back up, but as soon as I started moving the bike's temp dropped again.

Not an expensive part but it's a PITA to get to. I had the local dealer replace mine and IIRC it cost me close to $200 total. When you replace the t-stat, you might as well do a coolant flush, too, whether you DIY or have a shop do it.

[image: View Post]rufrydrsc2, on 06 November 2009 - 06:14 AM, said:

[image: View Post]baldyjoe, on 06 November 2009 - 03:50 AM, said:

if u were not in traffic that sounds about right thats a bit on the cool side air temp.

That's what I was going to say as mine stays around 148's when the air temps are low 50's to low 30's, so does my friend's new leftover 07. Haven't tried it in anything colder than 30 since I have no heated gear.

No problem.... Not having heated gear won't effect the bike temp. :beer: I sorry I just thought that was funny.....

[image: View Post]V4 Rosso, on 06 November 2009 - 04:09 AM, said:

Could indeed be a stuck thermostat. There are some indictations that Honda shipped the sixth gen with a coolant that clogs the thermostat wax element. I've heard of several riders that were able to get the thermostat working properly again after submerging it in some boiling G12+ coolant. As it is not very easy to replace the thermostat you may get away with just replacing the coolant. G12+ and G12++ coolant is compatible with G12 and G11 coolant. Both are also free of harmfull particles like silicate. The only problem may be finding the right bottle as the manufacturers made a little bit of a mess with labeling the containers and the original G12 coolant doesn't mix with G11. In fact it can be pretty harmfull for the cooling system when those two get mixed, so make sure you get the right coolant. I don't think the original G12 is still being sold but carefully read the label on the container. If the bottle says G12+ your OK. If it says G12 but the label also mentions you can mix it with G11, you're OK too (it's G12+). If it just says G12, skip that one! Another plus for the G12+ coolant is that it is a long life coolant so no need to replace it within five years instead of two.

So im going to try and flush the cooling system out and refill the system with new coolant to see if that helps the t-stat start working again. When flushing out the engine would it be ok to use tap water or should I go buy distilled? Plan on refilling with prestone 50/50.

Definitely sounds stuck to me - now that I've replaced mine, it is always above 150 degrees. (keep in mind less than 150 means no V-Tec.) I wouldn't waste time replacing just the coolant, but that's my opinion. Mine was pretty much welded open. Kind of a crummy job, plan on an afternoon if you've never done one. I would not use prestone coolant either - use a non-silicate motorcycle anti-freeze or you'll ruin the water pump.

[image: View Post]adam79, on 07 November 2009 - 09:11 AM, said:

When flushing out the engine would it be ok to use tap water or should I go buy distilled? Plan on refilling with prestone 50/50.Distilled is beter as it is mostly free of minerals that can lead to corrosion.

ok

Do yourself a favor and test the new one in a pan on the stove, regardless of vehicle. I've seen some bad out of the box. It a lot of work to do twice (or more).

In the 50's my scoot runs in the mid 160's...

Have you tried whispering sweet nothings in her ear? That sometimes helps...

[image: View Post]baldyjoe, on 06 November 2009 - 03:50 AM, said:

if u were not in traffic that sounds about right thats a bit on the cool side air temp.

Anyway, I don't think that sounds right at all. I had a Tstat stuck partially open, and even running 55 mph at about 4000-4500 RPMs it would get no colder than 100* above air temperature. I don't consider riding in 55* weather to be that cold, and your bike should be hotter than that.

[image: View Post]adam79, on 06 November 2009 - 05:17 AM, said:

How hard was it to replace the t-stat? And how many times have you (vfrsteve) replaced yours. 11k on the bike and im having to replace t-stats :angry:

It is a serious PITA to replace the Tstat, you have to prop up the tank, remove the air box, and then remove the throttle bodies to even get to them. Then when you're putting everything back together there are about a billion vacuum, PAIR, and EVAP hoses to keep straight. Not hard to do, just requires a very long phillips screwdriver, several hours free time, and a shop manual.

But what no one is mentioning is how easy it is to check to see if your Tstat is in fact stuck open.
Start with a cold bike. You can either let it warm up to about 150 degrees while sitting with the fairing off, or try riding it a bit to let it get up to temperature.

Then feel the line running to the radiator (or VERY CAREFULLY open the radiator cap to see if coolant is circulating)
If the line is hot or coolant is circulating your Tstat is stuck. If not, then it is not.

Out of curiosity, does anyone know what temperature they are supposed to start opening at and be completely open by?

Engine temps below 180F or 82C are an problem... it means that the moisture produced during combustion is not getting
hot enough to evaporate out the pipe as steam... instead that moisture will migrate to the oil and produce a milky
white contamination... the sequence of events to trouble shoot are:

1)Faulty temp meter...
2)Thermostat stuck open...
3)Faulty fan switch... (stuck on)

Ryanme17,
The t-stat should begin to open at 176-183F (80-84C) and be fully open by 203F (95C).

Action

[image: View Post]Ryanme17, on 07 November 2009 - 02:23 PM, said:

Have you tried whispering sweet nothings in her ear? That sometimes helps...

[image: View Post]baldyjoe, on 06 November 2009 - 03:50 AM, said:

if u were not in traffic that sounds about right thats a bit on the cool side air temp.

Anyway, I don't think that sounds right at all. I had a Tstat stuck partially open, and even running 55 mph at about 4000-4500 RPMs it would get no colder than 100* above air temperature. I don't consider riding in 55* weather to be that cold, and your bike should be hotter than that.

[image: View Post]adam79, on 06 November 2009 - 05:17 AM, said:

How hard was it to replace the t-stat? And how many times have you (vfrsteve) replaced yours. 11k on the bike and im having to replace t-stats :angry:

It is a serious PITA to replace the Tstat, you have to prop up the tank, remove the air box, and then remove the throttle bodies to even get to them. Then when you're putting everything back together there are about a billion vacuum, PAIR, and EVAP hoses to keep straight. Not hard to do, just requires a very long phillips screwdriver, several hours free time, and a shop manual.

But what no one is mentioning is how easy it is to check to see if your Tstat is in fact stuck open.
Start with a cold bike. You can either let it warm up to about 150 degrees while sitting with the fairing off, or try riding it a bit to let it get up to temperature.

Then feel the line running to the radiator (or VERY CAREFULLY open the radiator cap to see if coolant is circulating)
If the line is hot or coolant is circulating your Tstat is stuck. If not, then it is not.

Out of curiosity, does anyone know what temperature they are supposed to start opening at and be completely open by?
The stat starts to open between 176-183 and is to be fully open at 203.

Also, even with the stat closed there is still some circulation, just not very much. That little bit of flow, plus really cold air moving across the engine (20's and low 30's), and the oil cooler, can keep the engine below 160, even with a good thermostat. I the past when it gets below 40 I've "weaved" a piece black plastic into the black fairing piece behind the wheel. It Seemed to help quite a bit.

[image: View Post]coderighter, on 07 November 2009 - 03:15 PM, said:

The stat starts to open between 176-183 and is to be fully open at 203.

Also, even with the stat closed there is still some circulation, just not very much. That little bit of flow, plus really cold air moving across the engine (20's and low 30's), and the oil cooler, can keep the engine below 160, even with a good thermostat. I the past when it gets below 40 I've "weaved" a piece black plastic into the black fairing piece behind the wheel. It Seemed to help quite a bit.

This is a good point. All engines are to some degree air-cooled. When you're riding in the 20's, there is still really cold air rushing past the engine. But on a 55 degree day the engine should be running above 160.

I've ridden with the air temp indicating 37F, and my bike was running in the 150's to 160's.
Never seen lower...

ace57

[image: View Post]Ryanme17, on 07 November 2009 - 12:23 PM, said:

Have you tried whispering sweet nothings in her ear? That sometimes helps...

[image: View Post]baldyjoe, on 06 November 2009 - 03:50 AM, said:

if u were not in traffic that sounds about right thats a bit on the cool side air temp.

Anyway, I don't think that sounds right at all. I had a Tstat stuck partially open, and even running 55 mph at about 4000-4500 RPMs it would get no colder than 100* above air temperature. I don't consider riding in 55* weather to be that cold, and your bike should be hotter than that.

[image: View Post]adam79, on 06 November 2009 - 05:17 AM, said:

How hard was it to replace the t-stat? And how many times have you (vfrsteve) replaced yours. 11k on the bike and im having to replace t-stats :angry:

It is a serious PITA to replace the Tstat, you have to prop up the tank, remove the air box, and then remove the throttle bodies to even get to them. Then when you're putting everything back together there are about a billion vacuum, PAIR, and EVAP hoses to keep straight. Not hard to do, just requires a very long phillips screwdriver, several hours free time, and a shop manual.

But what no one is mentioning is how easy it is to check to see if your Tstat is in fact stuck open.
Start with a cold bike. You can either let it warm up to about 150 degrees while sitting with the fairing off, or try riding it a bit to let it get up to temperature.

Then feel the line running to the radiator (or VERY CAREFULLY open the radiator cap to see if coolant is circulating)
If the line is hot or coolant is circulating your Tstat is stuck. If not, then it is not.

Out of curiosity, does anyone know what temperature they are supposed to start opening at and be completely open by?

The coolant does circulate when I first start the bike up. Ive owned an 04 and this 06 and both bikes would stay at least in the 160+ range no matter what the temp was outside. Im just going to say screw it and change the t-stat out and hope this is the problem. I'll post my findings when im done.

I just replaced the T-stat in my 02. Easy enough for me, I've done a total tear down of a VF700 Sabre (Don't buy one of these if you want maintenance free). I had just the same problem you have and it fixed it. As far as doing a flush, I wouldn't count on that working. My thermostat was stuck SOLID. Squeezed it as hard as I could, and it wouldn't shut. The great thing about the VFR is that it seems to be designed from a mechanics point of view, it looks hard to work on, but it really isn't.

[image: View Post]adam79, on 06 November 2009 - 01:33 AM, said:

Riding home tonight on the highway at 70mph for about 20min when I seen that the temp gauge was reading 148F, with the outside temp at 55F. Im guessing the thermastat has stuck open? Does this sound like the first thing to check. 11,xxx on bike.

The thermastat was stuck open.

Just got the bike put back together after installing a thermostat. When I put the fuel tank back on the bike I noticed that the tank wobbles if I move it from side to side, or left to right if setting on the bike, and I never remember it having this much free play before. Can someone go out and see if there tank does the same, or is it very fixed on the bike without wobble, like I remember mine being??

[image: View Post]adam79, on 13 November 2009 - 08:49 AM, said:

Just got the bike put back together after installing a thermostat. When I put the fuel tank back on the bike I noticed that the tank wobbles if I move it from side to side, or left to right if setting on the bike, and I never remember it having this much free play before. Can someone go out and see if there tank does the same, or is it very fixed on the bike without wobble, like I remember mine being??

I shall check mine tonight after work.

[image: View Post]adam79, on 10 November 2009 - 10:50 PM, said:

The coolant does circulate when I first start the bike up.

Then your thermostat is stuck open. Coolant circulating on cold motor = stuck open thermostat.

As far as the tank wobbling side-to-side, what condition are the rubber grommets that go around all 4 bolts that hold the tank in place? Did you loosen or remove the rear bolts when you propped the tank up? Perhaps they were damaged, they do seem to wear easily. This would be the first place to check. Another possibility is that the airbox isn't seated correctly, or a hose is too high and your tank is not going down far enough.

Your tank should be mounted solidly, I wouldn't want to dig my knee in only to have the tank slide around. This could be a safety issue.

[image: View Post]troyce, on 07 November 2009 - 07:58 AM, said:

I would not use prestone coolant either - use a non-silicate motorcycle anti-freeze or you'll ruin the water pump.

Prestone Extended life antifreeze contains no silicates: http://www.prestone....care/faq.php#q2

I'm using green Prestone. No silicates or borates. $7.50 a bottle at Wal-mart, and was buy one get one free as of 2 weeks ago.

[image: View Post]elwray, on 13 November 2009 - 12:00 PM, said:

I'm using green Prestone. No silicates or borates. $7.50 a bottle at Wal-mart, and was buy one get one free as of 2 weeks ago.

Prestone 50/50 is what I went with and it is still buy one get one free. As for the tank wobble im going to check it out to see what the issue is.

So, would a stuck t-stat also contribute to poor mpg in cold weather? Beyond the normal drop for winter gas that I've seen with other vehicles (this is my first winter with the vfr) I've seen a pretty big drop in mpg on days with cold mornings. After 15 minutes of riding in upper 30's (F) temps my temp gauge can read in the 130's if I'm just cruising 50mph. It will climb higher if I'm moving slowly but once I get free of traffic it will drop back down to low 140's or less. Is there any doubt it's stuck? Does the engine run rich until a certain temp?

MPG was down, power was down, and it would sometimes not even get hot enough for VTEC (air temp below 10C).

Replacing my T-Stat was the best thing I've done for my bike. Once fixed it was like a whole new bike! :wheel:

Don't hesitate, ask VFR_Steve. He almost sold his bike because of it... Would have been a tragic mistake.

I've got 41k mi on my '02 and I've put 4-5 thermostats in it. 3 were stuck open, and the rest I've been trying to figure out what is going on with it.
The air temp has to be over 95F before the bike will run into the 180F's. Normal riding results in the bike running right at 167F. Occasionally reaching
I'm still trying to figure it out.

The process of changing the t-stat is time consuming and a bit of a pain, but not all that bad. I've gotten to where I can do the entire switch in just over 2hrs. Practice makes perfect!

[image: View Post]swimmer, on 21 November 2009 - 11:10 PM, said:

So, would a stuck t-stat also contribute to poor mpg in cold weather? Beyond the normal drop for winter gas that I've seen with other vehicles (this is my first winter with the vfr) I've seen a pretty big drop in mpg on days with cold mornings. After 15 minutes of riding in upper 30's (F) temps my temp gauge can read in the 130's if I'm just cruising 50mph. It will climb higher if I'm moving slowly but once I get free of traffic it will drop back down to low 140's or less. Is there any doubt it's stuck? Does the engine run rich until a certain temp?


On a carbed bike there is no mpg change, but with fi injected it will richen the mixture in the cold, so you'll see mpg loss in the winter, even with no gas change

If the vfr is below 160 degree it runs in a verr rich mode, you absolutely have a stuck open thermostat, no question about it. it should be at 170 degree within 1 mile after firt temp read of 95 dgrees , and never drift below, you 30 dreggrees too cold.

I'd block off some rad airflow till you replace the thermo

[image: View Post]tx_vfr, on 22 November 2009 - 03:05 PM, said:

I've got 41k mi on my '02 and I've put 4-5 thermostats in it. 3 were stuck open, and the rest I've been trying to figure out what is going on with it.
The air temp has to be over 95F before the bike will run into the 180F's. Normal riding results in the bike running right at 167F. Occasionally reaching
I'm still trying to figure it out.

The process of changing the t-stat is time consuming and a bit of a pain, but not all that bad. I've gotten to where I can do the entire switch in just over 2hrs. Practice makes perfect!



Good God dude, are you running that Honda crap antifreeze

[image: View Post]spud786, on 22 November 2009 - 03:13 PM, said:

[image: View Post]swimmer, on 21 November 2009 - 11:10 PM, said:

So, would a stuck t-stat also contribute to poor mpg in cold weather? Beyond the normal drop for winter gas that I've seen with other vehicles (this is my first winter with the vfr) I've seen a pretty big drop in mpg on days with cold mornings. After 15 minutes of riding in upper 30's (F) temps my temp gauge can read in the 130's if I'm just cruising 50mph. It will climb higher if I'm moving slowly but once I get free of traffic it will drop back down to low 140's or less. Is there any doubt it's stuck? Does the engine run rich until a certain temp?


On a carbed bike there is no mpg change, but with fi injected it will richen the mixture in the cold, so you'll see mpg loss in the winter, even with no gas change

If the vfr is below 160 degree it runs in a verr rich mode, you absolutely have a stuck open thermostat, no question about it. it should be at 170 degree within 1 mile after firt temp read of 95 dgrees , and never drift below, you 30 dreggrees too cold.

I'd block off some rad airflow till you replace the thermo


Thanks.. I'll order a t-stat tomorrow and replace the anti-freeze.

[image: View Post]spud786, on 22 November 2009 - 03:19 PM, said:

[image: View Post]tx_vfr, on 22 November 2009 - 03:05 PM, said:

I've got 41k mi on my '02 and I've put 4-5 thermostats in it. 3 were stuck open, and the rest I've been trying to figure out what is going on with it.
The air temp has to be over 95F before the bike will run into the 180F's. Normal riding results in the bike running right at 167F. Occasionally reaching
I'm still trying to figure it out.

The process of changing the t-stat is time consuming and a bit of a pain, but not all that bad. I've gotten to where I can do the entire switch in just over 2hrs. Practice makes perfect!



Good God dude, are you running that Honda crap antifreeze

I was till I replaced the last one that was clearly stuck open. Switched it out at that point. I forget what brand I put in, but it met everything the SM called for.

Hey swimmer,

Don't forget to order the o-ring that goes with the t-stat

4-5 t-stats in 40k miles....makes me nervous on what I have to look forward to. Well, at least I have one out of the way.

I did switch to Prestone coolant so hopfully that helps. I wonder if the t-stat issue has something to do with the bike running in the 190-220 temps, this is really hot compared to most motorcycles.

[image: View Post]spud786, on 22 November 2009 - 03:13 PM, said:

no question about it. it should be at 170 degree within 1 mile after firt temp read of 95 dgrees , and never drift below, you 30 dreggrees too cold.

I'd block off some rad airflow till you replace the thermo


It was 41 degrees this morning. It took 3 minutes for any temp to show up after starting (I just get on and ride easy, no sitting at idle) and after 10 minutes as I was pulling in to get gas it hit 150 degrees. For the rest of my commute which was in free flowing traffic 50mph) with only one stop it would drop to 148-150. Never saw above 164 and that was at a stop light. Hopefully this all explains why is saw a drop to nearly 40mpg on one of my last tanks. This last tank was 45.3 but that was all ridden on almost one day on a trip out of town with temps around 70 degrees.

I ordered a t-stat and will replace the plugs and airfilter while I've got things taken apart.

[image: View Post]adam79, on 23 November 2009 - 12:51 AM, said:

4-5 t-stats in 40k miles....makes me nervous on what I have to look forward to. Well, at least I have one out of the way.

I did switch to Prestone coolant so hopfully that helps. I wonder if the t-stat issue has something to do with the bike running in the 190-220 temps, this is really hot compared to most motorcycles.



190-220 is perfectly normal on the VFR.

[image: View Post]adam79, on 23 November 2009 - 12:51 AM, said:

4-5 t-stats in 40k miles....makes me nervous on what I have to look forward to. Well, at least I have one out of the way.


I had mine swapped back in 07. Probably around the 16,000KM mark. No problems since. And I'm just over 48K now.

[image: View Post]dutchinterceptor, on 23 November 2009 - 09:36 AM, said:

[image: View Post]adam79, on 23 November 2009 - 12:51 AM, said:

4-5 t-stats in 40k miles....makes me nervous on what I have to look forward to. Well, at least I have one out of the way.

I did switch to Prestone coolant so hopfully that helps. I wonder if the t-stat issue has something to do with the bike running in the 190-220 temps, this is really hot compared to most motorcycles.



190-220 is perfectly normal on the VFR.


Im aware that these temps are normal on a VFR.

Im sure honda uses the same type of materials in all there t-stats making most of there thermastat the same, with the exception of when they open or close.

I was trying to say, the high temps in the vfr, although normal, might be to much for the thermastat causing them to fail. The VFR runs hot in comparison to most bikes, and Im sure honda uses the same type of t-stat in alot of there bikes that run much cooler with out fault. Of course this is just my non-educated guess.

Anyways, whatever it might be.....having to replace more than on thermastat in a bikes life time is just to much. Hey, tx_vfr, you have more patience than I do. Hats off to you!!

Off topic, but how many miles are on that 88 4runner? Ive always wanted to own a 22re Toy.

[image: View Post]adam79, on 23 November 2009 - 02:02 PM, said:

Anyways, whatever it might be.....having to replace more than on thermastat in a bikes life time is just to much. Hey, tx_vfr, you have more patience than I do. Hats off to you!!

I come from a family of mechanics, so tinkering with the thing is pretty normal in my mind. Plus I'm cheap so I do all the work myself. I'm getting darn fast at it now!

Quote

Off topic, but how many miles are on that 88 4runner? Ive always wanted to own a 22re Toy.

I've got about 230,000mi on the body. about 250,000 on the engine & transmission. Checked main bearings about 25,000mi ago and they were worn. The rest of the engine is spotless!
She clatters and rattles, but runs like a top and still turns 16.5mpg avg around town. :fing02:

[image: View Post]swimmer, on 23 November 2009 - 09:17 AM, said:

[image: View Post]spud786, on 22 November 2009 - 03:13 PM, said:

no question about it. it should be at 170 degree within 1 mile after firt temp read of 95 dgrees , and never drift below, you 30 dreggrees too cold.

I'd block off some rad airflow till you replace the thermo


It was 41 degrees this morning. It took 3 minutes for any temp to show up after starting (I just get on and ride easy, no sitting at idle) and after 10 minutes as I was pulling in to get gas it hit 150 degrees. For the rest of my commute which was in free flowing traffic 50mph) with only one stop it would drop to 148-150. Never saw above 164 and that was at a stop light. Hopefully this all explains why is saw a drop to nearly 40mpg on one of my last tanks. This last tank was 45.3 but that was all ridden on almost one day on a trip out of town with temps around 70 degrees.

I ordered a t-stat and will replace the plugs and airfilter while I've got things taken apart.


I replaced my t-stat yesterday. Rode this morning. At a steady 60mph and 30 degrees F the temp was a steady 169 degrees. So all seems fixed. The old one was stuck open. There was a fair amount of debris hanging out in the t-stat housing. Also replaced the spark plugs and 3 were pretty oily probably from so much low temp rich running. The front two plugs were barely snugged. I am pretty sure they have never been changed. Replaced the air filter also. Running good. Hopefully the mpg comes up a bit. Not my favorite way to spend a saturday but better than taking it somewhere and paying a bunch for unknown competence. Thanks to anyone who responded to my questions.

I believe I have same thing went out for a ride in good old Charlotte and on a 50 degree day I was running at 150-155 on highway warmed up at lights then would drop down to 155or so.

Anyone know what a dealer would charge to fix? Or a good dealer in Charlotte/RockHill area in nc or sc?

[image: View Post]ADAM79, on 06 November 2009 - 03:33 AM, said:

Riding home tonight on the highway at 70mph for about 20min when I seen that the temp gauge was reading 148F, with the outside temp at 55F. Im guessing the thermastat has stuck open? Does this sound like the first thing to check. 11,xxx on bike.


Ｉ think maybe so...

For thread posterity, I'll say that my '06 is on its 4th t-stat. All three previous ones became stuck to varying degrees. No quibble from the mechanic, either - each one agreed after they got the part out.

Speaking of this. I just got done replaceing my thormostate yesturday. Was only seeing mid 150's while riding in 40 deg weather before I parked it for winter.

Prestone 50/50 went in after a distilled water system flush with an oil change for good measure. Now if only it would warm up to at least 40 deg.

Tech tip: with your seat off and battery out (for sefety) inbolt the bottom of the fuel tank, lay a towel over the rear plastic, and rotate the tank around and out of the way with out unhooking all the fuel lines. makes getting to everything so much easier. And as far as re installing the throttle bodies. A little vaseline on the inside of the rubber boots helps them snick on with no drama. Oh and a 12" #2 philips head screw driver is your best friend.

[image: View Post]sirimiri, on 21 February 2011 - 02:24 PM, said:

For thread posterity, I'll say that my '06 is on its 4th t-stat. All three previous ones became stuck to varying degrees. No quibble from the mechanic, either - each one agreed after they got the part out.



What coolant are you reinstalling? 4 tstats is insane

Im still on original tstat pushing 85,000 miles, the honda coolant was dumped when the bike was new, ive never had issue with boil over or stuck thermo, with Prestone and distilled.

IMO HOnda coolant is causing chemical welding

[image: View Post]Graves, on 21 February 2011 - 03:11 PM, said:

Speaking of this. I just got done replaceing my thormostate yesturday. Was only seeing mid 150's while riding in 40 deg weather before I parked it for winter.

Prestone 50/50 went in after a distilled water system flush with an oil change for good measure. Now if only it would warm up to at least 40 deg.

Tech tip: with your seat off and battery out (for sefety) inbolt the bottom of the fuel tank, lay a towel over the rear plastic, and rotate the tank around and out of the way with out unhooking all the fuel lines. makes getting to everything so much easier. And as far as re installing the throttle bodies. A little vaseline on the inside of the rubber boots helps them snick on with no drama. Oh and a 12" #2 philips head screw driver is your best friend.



Did you install a brand new OEM tstat or after market? Obviously that one isnt working right

[image: View Post]spud786, on 21 February 2011 - 04:50 PM, said:

[image: View Post]Graves, on 21 February 2011 - 03:11 PM, said:

Speaking of this. I just got done replaceing my thormostate yesturday. Was only seeing mid 150's while riding in 40 deg weather before I parked it for winter.

Prestone 50/50 went in after a distilled water system flush with an oil change for good measure. Now if only it would warm up to at least 40 deg.

Tech tip: with your seat off and battery out (for sefety) inbolt the bottom of the fuel tank, lay a towel over the rear plastic, and rotate the tank around and out of the way with out unhooking all the fuel lines. makes getting to everything so much easier. And as far as re installing the throttle bodies. A little vaseline on the inside of the rubber boots helps them snick on with no drama. Oh and a 12" #2 philips head screw driver is your best friend.



Did you install a brand new OEM tstat or after market? Obviously that one isnt working right


I just install a Honda OEM tstat. The old one was stuck wide open. I haven't gotten the bike out on the road yet to test the new one. Too much sand and ice yet. i did test the new one in a pot on the stove and it worked perfectly. The old tstat was the original. I bought that bike last March. And this is the first coolant change it has had. Only had 4,500 miles on it when I bought it. Previous owner bought it new in 03 and gave me all the maintinence records as well.

My mistake , I thought you meant your brand new tstat was not working.

You gonna be happy when the bike works like its supposed to.