1KR engine into 1KF frame

I am installing an 86 vf1000r engine into an 84 frame. The transmission went bad (classic 2nd gear) on the F motor and I have the F motor completely dismantled. Originally I was going to rebuild this F motor, I already have a replacement transmission and gasket kit for it, but I came accross a local guy ho had a complete 1986 VF1000R listed on craigslist with no title. Got a steal of a deal $600. It came with 2 1000R engines, one verified good running engine with only 15k miles and another that is locked up I will use for parts and practice! So, I have changed my mind. I think at this point would be wise to put the 86 R engine on the 84 frame. I will probably still rebuild the F motor at some point, but not for this bike.

Also, I have an 85 vf1000r from a previous trade I am going to build as well. It has a good engine only 23 k miles. So in essence, this thread will be 3 builds in one. Putting the R motor in the F frame, Merging the 85 and 86 to make one complete bike, and rebuilding the 1000F engine. I will start with the 84 vf1000f bike since it is clean and ready for an engine. I will definately need plenty of advise and when all is said and done will have lots of extra parts for the picking!

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heres a picture of the 85 I am rebuilding too. I have a complete 86 1000r with no title to merge with this one that I do have a title for. I intend to post the progress as i go, good or bad.

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My first question on the motor swap????

I am assuming I will need to use the wiring harness and CDI from the R motor when installing it to the F frame, am I correct?

I will also need to use the shifter from the R? Thanks guys.

Yes. Having the electronics and wiring for the R motor is what matters. The speedo and everything else could care less what you put in there.

Definitely the CDI from the R.

My concern is if the R harness will reach all the F connection points.

I think the F harness adapted to the R CDI might be the solution.

VF1000RSI think the F harness adapted to the R CDI might be the solution.

How did you set yours up Tom?

SEBSPEED

VF1000RSI think the F harness adapted to the R CDI might be the solution.

How did you set yours up Tom?

You mean the one that's still a bare frame wrapped up in the basement?

VF1000RS

SEBSPEED

VF1000RSI think the F harness adapted to the R CDI might be the solution.

How did you set yours up Tom?

You mean the one that's still a bare frame wrapped up in the basement?

Is that the one you did the frame mod on in your other thread?

Ya that's the one.

Jspout

OMG, a new monkey in the wrench. Man, when it rains it pours. I stumbled upon another 84 vf1000f bike locally with a good motor, no title. Only $600 again. Seems to be the magic number on VFKs with no title. I am going to go look at it today, maybe offer $500 for it. Wow! for years have'nt even seen one in the state for sale. Picked up 4 in one year.

Come on Jspout, share the wealth, you know I need a motor......

:smile:

Can't believe I did it again, but yea, plans have changed.... again! Check this out. 1984 vf1000f georgeous!

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Please start a new classifieds thread for selling parts, and note that VFRd requires you to name pricIng for items.

This is to discourage bidding wars, we have EBay for that.

Good luck getting your bike back together, you should have everything you need now!

I hear ya on the classified stuff

The complete body for this white VF1000F will be on EBAY available tonight (all in one listing) :tour: , if anyone has interest. NO RESERVE

OK, started turning wrenches today! The process has begun. This first picture here is both VF1000F bikes next to each other. The motor from the bike in the foreground(the white bike) is going into the other in the back. I removed the body parts and tank from the white one and am going to try to get it running first in the frame it is in before I remove it. It has not been started in a few years so I figured I should put some marvell mystery oil in the cylinders and let it work itself down for a few days before I start cranking it over. So I pulled the plugs in all of the motors and used an oiling can to inject the mystery oil into the cylinders. A friend recomended the mystery oil as it lubricates well and burns well. The rear plugs were easy to get to, the fronts not too bad, just had to move the top radiator out of the way. 3 10mm bolts on the VF1000F Radiator, one on the top and 2 on the bottom. The radiator on the VF1000r has 4 bolts 2 on top and the bottom 2 go into the duel fans. I did have to drain the water and remove a hose on the left into the frame on the F bike.

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:tour:

here is a pic of the VF1000F motor from the RWB bike. It is a good clean motor with a bad transmission, only 14,000 miles. But, is completely taken apart, I am going to use as many parts from this motor on the other motor as I can. The case covers are perfect and has half of the miles. I will rebuild this motor too, but really is the first full rebuild I have ever done, so will take my time. I have a complete gasket kit for the VF1000F motor. Once I get it running I will start replacing the parts I can that are better.

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I have a question about exhaust. The RWB Vf1000F I have came with a Vance and Hines system with pipes and not a collector box. V & H is printed on the fairing red stripe. My white one has the stock set up. Was the Vance and Hines an option on the 84? Love the look of the stock, but like the weight loss of the collector box and I'm sure sounds better.

Jspout

I have a question about exhaust. The RWB Vf1000F I have came with a Vance and Hines system with pipes and not a collector box. V & H is printed on the fairing red stripe. My white one has the stock set up. Was the Vance and Hines an option on the 84? Love the look of the stock, but like the weight loss of the collector box and I'm sure sounds better.

It's a V&H 4-2 complete exhaust? It wasn't an OEM option, just an aftermarket set up.

Yes, a Vance & Hines complete 4 into 2 exhaust, however says Vance & Hines in the painted stripe on the fairing, paited in, not a decal. Odd. Plus, I got this bike from the original owner and he did'nt have a stock collector box and muffler set up, or he'd have given it to me. Strange.

Man, I really need another spare engine! Hey Jspout: if you get one that you are willing to sell let me know. I get down to Springfield MO a couple of times each year so pickup is not a problem.

JamieDaugherty

Man, I really need another spare engine! Hey Jspout: if you get one that you are willing to sell let me know. I get down to Springfield MO a couple of times each year so pickup is not a problem.

Back off Daugherty, I have dibs...

LOL :tongue:

When I am done Jamie I will have a couple good motors left. Let me know when you are around. What I need is an oil mod kit. Or 2

Yesterday I changed the plugs, I had a better set of plug wires, replaced those, and the coils were cracked and old looking so I put a fresh set of coils on there. Gave a few more squirts of Mystery oil into the cylinders. Also I rigged a funnel up to the fuel line so I can feed the gas. I think tomorrow will be the day that I attempt to fire her up! yea, I have a good feeling she will fire up, so cross your fingers for me. Anything else I should check or do first? Suggestions?

Offering to the Deity of your choice?

Always been partial to ISIS. May have to sacrifice one of my cats. LOL

I was ready to fire it up yesterday, connected a battery and the electrical seems a mess on that bike. Bad start switch and I think ignition switch too, plus looks like a mouse or squirl got up under the seat and chewed some of the wires. I have extras so will have to spend a little time replacing those before she will fire. I don't want to spend too much time with electrical connections. If it becomes too involved I will just do the motor swap to the other bike, and start it then with the newer electrical system. i have a sign in my shop that reads "patience"! Not in a hurry so will take my time.

New acqusitions... The shock got in trade for an extra exhuast I have and the polished motor i could not resist. was an ebay purchase. Made sense because it came with the DRP oil mod which I was going to purchase soon any way. Plus my mother lives close to the guy and i can go pick it up next month from her house.

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Got the white 84 bike running today. I had to replace the starter switch, the starter relay and the ignition switch. Then put some gas in my makeshift funnel gas tank, sprayed some starter fluid in the carbs and she fired up. Not running good, but for sitting 10 years, I am happy. A good carb cleaning and motor flush and I think it will run good.

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Here is a picture of the awesome pollished VF1000F motor in a custom chopper build. Great imagination! This is the motor that will go into my bike in the picture above.

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Pulled the motor from the running F bike. Not as difficult as I had thought it would be. First had to remove the exhaust, lower radiator and thurmostat housing. I was going to remove the carbs, but after tinkering for a few minutes, decided it would be easier to mess with the carbs with the motor out. I could'nt get them to break loose and did'nt want to pry them off. There was a chance the rear left carb would get in the way of removing, but was not an issue.

Heres a trick a member told me upon removing the motor: First, remove the motor mounts from the Left side and the sub frame bolts, then lay the bike down on a thick piece of cardboard on the left side. Then remove the mounting bolts on the right side. Lift the frame back up and it came right out. Used a pry bar to get it to slightly corkscrew forward. I was skeptical at first of this method, but worked like a charm! To install: the same in reverse! I am going to use this F frame and install an R motor into it! gotta try it.

Now I need to clean and paint the motor, and remove the carbs for cleaning and get it into the new frame ASAP while I remember where everything gos. HERES A QUESTION The front chain drive gear was obviously warn and needs replacing, I have a 17 and a 16 tooth gears that are good. I live in the Ozarks, lots of hill driving. What's the best set up for gears? front and back?

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If ya'll were wondering, the collector boxes for the 84F(pictured on the right) is completely different than the 85R(left). They are not compatible if you plan on bolting them to the rear mounts. It will not leave room for the center stand on the 84F if you use the later years.

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You doubted my methods??

LOL, looks like your project is coming right along, looking good!

OK, Just an update. I removed the carbs from the engine and pulled out those nasty waterpipes from the heads. I have a better set to install and I also ordered a new set of the Orings for the waterpipes. QUESTION: should I run any sealant in those? I am tempted, don't want no leaks there. Or the new ORING is enoug?. I then cleaned up the engine, painted some of it, replaced one of the valve covers with one that is better condition. Looking in the motor, on the back cylinders side, Everything seemed in pretty good shape and clean. I may decide to do a valve adjustment while it is out. I also replaced the shock with a high performance Showa coil over. Looks real cool too. And, I finished painting the lower aftermarket fairing to match as well. Any advise at this point would be helpfull!!!

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That polished engine looks SWEET!!!!!!!!

But then you need windows cut into the fairings.....

Don't use any sealant on the o-rings for the water pipes to the heads. Make sure that everything including the orifi to the heads are clean, the water pipes are straight and not tweaked/bent, use a small amount of lube on the o-rings if you must and push them -straight- into the heads so the o-rings don't bind up or pinch.

VF1000RS

Don't use any sealant on the o-rings for the water pipes to the heads. Make sure that everything including the orifi to the heads are clean, the water pipes are straight and not tweaked/bent, use a small amount of lube on the o-rings if you must and push them -straight- into the heads so the o-rings don't bind up or pinch.

Yeah, what he said. :biggrin:

Is there an easy way to test for leaks before I put the carbs back on and install? Hook up a water hose or something?

JeffLaurence

But then you need windows cut into the fairings.....

The motor is in.... Yea! I installed it the same way I took it out, by laying the motor on it's side and laying the bike on top of it untill the front and top mounts were lined up on the right side, then stood the bike up. Walla! Now i have to get a jack under it to get the lower long bolts in. I will install the carbs and hook it all back together.

So ya'll know, I have lots of good 1000F and 1000R parts going on ebay this week. Check it out!

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It is my obsevation, since I have been building the Vf1000F and VF1000R bikes at the same time, that the R engine front head engine mounts are unneccessary if you were to put into an F frame. The F frame has a cross bar on the sub frame that stablizes the front of the frame. It appears to me that the reason the extra engine mounts are on the R bike frame because the R subframe does not have the cross bar and it uses the engine itself to stablelize the front of the frame. In my opinion, it is not neccessary to weld the extra engine mounts to the F frame if you were to do the conversion. Up for discussion?

Jspout

It is my obsevation, since I have been building the Vf1000F and VF1000R bikes at the same time, that the R engine front head engine mounts are unneccessary if you were to put into an F frame. The F frame has a cross bar on the sub frame that stablizes the front of the frame. It appears to me that the reason the extra engine mounts are on the R bike frame because the R subframe does not have the cross bar and it uses the engine itself to stablelize the front of the frame. In my opinion, it is not neccessary to weld the extra engine mounts to the F frame if you were to do the conversion. Up for discussion?

Makes sense to me. They are close to each other.

I decided to go with the carbs from the original motor, since they were the lowest miles, plus the previous owner was smart when he removed them and drained the remaining fuel. I opened them up and cleaned them this weekend. They weren't too bad. A couple of the idle jets were clogged, and one of the slides seemed a little gritty so I switched it out with a smoother one. Polished them up and now they are ready to install. I see the light at the end of the tunnel! Just got to put her back together now. My biggest concern, is leaks in the water inlets. I will post some new pics tomorrow.

regarding the extra mounts on wider head engines - I've replaced my 1000FE engine with line bored FF item, wasn't bothered about extra mounts, been riding it for about 500miles now and can see no difference to frame flexing or vibes....

Question: I have cleaned the carbs and have attempted to reinstall them, not spent a lot of time yet. Does anyone have a system or technique to reinstalling them and keeping all the connectors together. I would appreciate the advice.

post a pic of what you are trying to do. If put together correctly, the carbs should not have any connectors that need to stay together. If your carb insulators have dried out and are hard rather than pliable, it will be a real pain. If they are pliable, put the fronts in first and then the rears.

if you mean putting carbs back onto the engine then you can:

- heatup carb rubbers with a heatgun or boiling water to make them soft again

- oil them to aid assembly

- front ones go in first then rear ones at the angle, look it up in here, plenty previous advice given

wlodek1980

if you mean putting carbs back onto the engine then you can:

- heatup carb rubbers with a heatgun or boiling water to make them soft again

- oil them to aid assembly

- front ones go in first then rear ones at the angle, look it up in here, plenty previous advice given

Are the engine casings for the VF1000F the same as for the 1000R? If not, are the differences significant?

wlodek1980

if you mean putting carbs back onto the engine then you can:

- heatup carb rubbers with a heatgun or boiling water to make them soft again

- oil them to aid assembly

- front ones go in first then rear ones at the angle, look it up in here, plenty previous advice given

This worked well for me, especially the heat and oil. New boots are about $8 ea if your old ones are really brittle and need replacing. Try angling the front and rear boots 1/2 way on and work the carbs straight down.

thx113

Are the engine casings for the VF1000F the same as for the 1000R? If not, are the differences significant?

Pretty certain they're significantly different as the F has chain driven cams vs. the R's gear drive.

Got them damn carbs on today! I Just took my time and was patient. Got the front 2 to drop in pretty quickly, just had to make sure the 5 connector pieces were going into the right places then got to the back ones and they were'nt even close. i did lubricate all the boots so i could get them not only to drop in easy, but to menuver them around. I then put the boots for the back carbs on a little cockeyed so it kind of went on both the carb and engine at the same time. i also had to pull the front carbs back out a little to get the back ones to pivot downward and then all 4 carbs sort of snapped in at the same time. Man what a good feeling that was! Now before I tightened the boots, I put the carb intake piece on the top and tightened them down with the 8 gold screws. This way it lined them up perfectly where they are supposed to be. there are also some dowel sleves that go into the slots of each carb. This guides them to line up perfectly. Once I tightened the 8 gold screws, I then tightened down the carb boots. I then took off the intake thing with the 8 screws and put the 2 carb sync springs in between the throttle edges and it was done ! I feel pretty good about these carbs now, I admit I was a little nervious, there are a lot of little pieces and screws, but seemed correct when done, and no left over parts. Next up the radiators and electrical connections and front sprocket!

Oh you tried to install the carbs with the intake plenum off... [image: doh.gif]

SEBSPEED

Oh you tried to install the carbs with the intake plenum off... [image: doh.gif]

Put them back together BEFORE you install them on the bike...

SEBSPEED

Put them back together BEFORE you install them on the bike...

I think Honda even said not to take the plenum off unless you wanted to replace o-rings. Nevertheless, pushing carbs loose will easily damage plastic connections and loosen up the o-rings, then you end up with a fuel leak right on top of a hot engine, not clever...

wlodek1980

I think Honda even said not to take the plenum off unless you wanted to replace o-rings. Nevertheless, pushing carbs loose will easily damage plastic connections and loosen up the o-rings, then you end up with a fuel leak right on top of a hot engine, not clever...

OK, got the carb finished, and I feel pretty good about it. let me know if you see something out of place in the pic. I finished the plumbing and electrical. Filled the radiators and.... NO LEAKs!!! Frickin amaizing. Only things left, buy a battery and switch back tires, change the oil and connect the handlebar controls. and all the body pieces and hope she fires up.

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Making progress, down to detail stuff. I put the front fender on, the battery cage, relpaced all the fuses, and put the reflectors on it from the other VF1000f, changed the oil and filter, connected the choke cable. Still have to replace the rear tire and buy a battery. The shock adjuster and hose sort of sticks out where the battery gos, so I am a little nervious they will interfere with each other. I still have to find somewhere to mount the shock adjuster cylinder. Everything looks good so far. I think I will be able to get her started this week and make sure nothing is leaking any where. then take it to my buddie's shop to adjust the valves and carbs. Can't wait to pick up that polished engine next month. I may just decide to modify the other VF1000F frame and build a chopper out of it. We shall see how well this engine runs. If I am missing something, let me know, good time for advise.

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Update on the 84vf1000F progress:

Got the rear tire mounted and am waiting for a new set of wheel bearings to rinstall the wheel and chain. I had to use a propane torch to heat up the hub to free the old bearings. Mounted the rear cowel and OH Jesus handles. I also have put together the handle bar controls and throttle. Everything was moving freely untill I put on the air box and must have pinched the cables, as the throttle not snapping back like it was. Came up with a solution to the JD shock mod remote hose and mounting the remote. Bought a 14b battery which is a little smaller, ran the hose around the battery and mounted/strapped it to the battery itself. The top bolt to the shock was a little tricky to get in by myself. I lifted the frame to get the shock top to go under the lip, I also had to lift the swing arm at the same time to get it to move back a hair and line up with the hole and at the same time go through the spacers with the bolt. Took some patience to do and a fresh start of the day. I installed the shock before doing the engine swap, I could not have done it by myself if the motor was in the frame. But it is in and does not rub. I think it will work fine, doesn't seem to be rubbing at all. Now just have to reinstall the wheel bearings and hook up the exhaust, and bleed the clutch. Should be able to fire it up this week some time. I will have picture up this week too. Also I have the 86 VF1000R motor cleaned and prepped, cleaned the carbs and it is now ready to install into the frame. I still need to clean up the frame and may paint first.

Got the rear wheel bearings changed and wheel and exhuast mounted, rolled her outside, sprayed some starter fluid in the carbs, rigged up a funnel for gas and..... She fired right up! Ran for about a minute and I flooded it. So, no water leaks, no fuel leaks from the carbs themselves. There was a little gas leaking from one of the carb boots, and something strange leaking from the bottom of the exhaust fitting. Probably some of that mystery oil I put in the cylinders. The Tank has some rust and debris inside, I have flushed a couple gallons of gas through it and it is starting to clear up. i don't think It will need coating. Over all I am excited and thrilled after all that work that she started. smoked some( concidering been sitting for a few years), but sounded pretty good for the minute it ran. Now I take it to my friend to get it running good. Getting ready to install the VF1000R motor into the frame this week. Got to do some frame clean up and switch front forks first.

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Congrats, keep up the efforts!

gotta love the paint scheme

The 84 Vf1000F is now at my mechanics and they are dialing it in, but need some carb parts. Anyone have some or know if the carb boots from any other models will fit the 1000? All the boots I have are cracked or split. Also, I would like to convert the tank to a gravity feed. What do I have to do to make that happen? thanks for the advise.

JamieDaugherty

Man, I really need another spare engine! Hey Jspout: if you get one that you are willing to sell let me know. I get down to Springfield MO a couple of times each year so pickup is not a problem.

Jspout

Hey Jamie, I once read you convert all your VFs to gravity feed. I want to do that to this bike. What do I have to do to make that happen? Thanks for the advise! I did go get that polished 1000F motor finally, what a gem! I will post pics.

You can remove the line to the fuel pump and run it straight to the carb inflow line. It worked for me in the garage but it wouldn't stay running on the street. The fuel line routing may determine if it works or not, trial and error.

No new news on the 84 build, still at my mechanic's going through the carbs. But, Started on the 86 VF1000r. I switched out the front forks and have the good motor ready to install. i will post pictures of the 84F next week when it is done.

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Looking forward to the pics.

Installed the VF1000R engine today, all by my lonesome. Smashed a couple fingers, but got her in. All down hill from here.

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LOOKS GOOOOOOOOOOOOOD !!!!!!!!!!!

Jspout

Smashed a couple fingers, but got her in. All down hill from here.

Enjoying your project, btw. :fing02:

Looks good, the fingers will heal. 1KR motors are almost irreplaceable. :tongue:

Got working on her today, my goal to get all the cooling system hooked up. This process was quite a bit different from the Vf1000F. This system is set up like a puzzle. You have to start with the fan assembly and bolt that to the frame. The lower radiator has 2 rubber postes that fit into the top of the fan frame and it bolts to the bottom. Then i cleaned and assembled the upper radiator into the Fairing frame. I have duplicates of all this stuff so it was fun picking the best parts. Once i got the fairing frame together and bolted it to the bike, it was time to connect everything together. While the 84 Vf1000F runs the water through the frame on the left side, the VF1000R has a hose that goes from the right side of the lower radiator all the way accross the front of the frame and down to the water pump. The upper radiator runs from the right side to the thurmoustat housing and then to the engine water pipes. I installed new orings on the water pipes and tightened all the hose clamps. So...Now the big moment. i filled it up with coolant and water, to detect any leaks. Un like my success with the 84, This time I was not so lucky. I had leaks. The good news, NOT LEAKING FROM THE HEAD GASKET. the rear engine pipes were not sealing well. I drained and filled and adjusted this thing 10 times and was still gettting a drip. I finally gave up and got out the high temp silicone. I know you all advised against it, but it worked, no more drip! I really dont understand this design. Not very reliable. So now, i noticed the 86 duel headlight has 2 electric plugs, so i will have to switch out the wiring harness. I will be doing that today.

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The o-rings to the water pipes are finicky and can roll up or pinch. I find a touch of light grease helps as they need to go in -straight- .

And yes it's not the best design.

Here it is folks the finished product 1984 VF1000F!!! wow, what an adventure building these 2 bikes. I still have a few issues to figure out. One leaking fork seal, a small oil leak from the shift shaft(probably a seal there), a small exhaust leak and the clutch is slipping a little bit too, so I may need to replace the clutch plates soon. But other then that, I am road worthy. I will give an assessment of how she rides after I run her some and get better pictures too.

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That rear end looks extra perky, I like it

A couple more VF1000F pictures. So far runs awesome!

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I like that lower fairing, bike looks great. Still want one of these in my garage one day. :fing02:

I'll second that... Very nice Lance!

getting close on the 86, hooked up the exhaust, handlebar controls, clutch, brakes, had new tires mounted, chain, most of the electrical is hooked up. Seems I am missing one headlight bracket. I probably have it somewhere, but spent enough time digging through boxes today. Now I am really at a standstill untill I get the carbs, but I think I will have her on the road soon as well.

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Update on the 2 bikes.... The 84F I replaced the clutch discs yesterday, restored a lot of power and performance! The job was pretty easy to do. There are a series of 9 clutch plates and 8 discs. That castle nut that holds it all together, I just used a hammer and chisle to get it off. No one had anything close to the socket tool. Came apart easy, Other bikes I've done had a funky #1 disc to start with, this one does not they are all the same. You want to make sure to soak new discs in fresh oil over night. Start with a disc and then a plate and alternate them. One side of the plate has a sharper edge to it. You want to make sure the sharp edge is facing outward. There is a lock washer that needs to be the right side out too. says outside on it.

I also rigged the cooling fans to the switch on the pannel. This way I can turn them on right away instead of waiting untill it gets super hot. I still have to change out the right fork as it has a leaking seal. Then I should be able to get her to pass inspection. I like the way this bike runs. For me is comfortable to ride has lots of torque and good shift response. It sort of handles like a road cruser though. The brakes are definately not crotch rocket like. This bike is a major head turned and people are drooling over it everywhere I've gone so far. Cant wait to get the 86 on the road.

The 86R... I got a good set of carbs for her and some original painted body parts too. I should have her running in the next couple of weeks. Hold please!

Hammer and chisel ouch!

If you need to do the clutch on the R let me know. I have the socket for the clutch nut. You can borrow it.

VF1000RS

Hammer and chisel ouch!

If you need to do the clutch on the R let me know. I have the socket for the clutch nut. You can borrow it.

I really like your project!

You did a great job there.

I was wondering is it also possible to fit a VFR750 engine in a VF750F frame?

How much work would that be?

Thanks in advance!

madpat88

I really like your project!

You did a great job there.

I was wondering is it also possible to fit a VFR750 engine in a VF750F frame?

How much work would that be?

Thanks in advance!

need some advise!

Kind of at a stand still. I have the carbs and airbox installed on the VF1000R, she's ready to kick over, pushed the start button and....starter not cranking. Tested the starter relay on another bike, is good. tested the switch on another bike, is good. tested 2 starters, both good. Not sure wher to go next? If I have the high beams on, I get a click in a headlight relay when i push the start button. A short maybe?

Jspout

need some advise!

Kind of at a stand still. I have the carbs and airbox installed on the VF1000R, she's ready to kick over, pushed the start button and....starter not cranking. Tested the starter relay on another bike, is good. tested the switch on another bike, is good. tested 2 starters, both good. Not sure wher to go next? If I have the high beams on, I get a click in a headlight relay when i push the start button. A short maybe?

Just spitballing, but does the motor turn over by hand easily with the plugs pulled?

Can you hear the starter relay clicking when you push the button on your bike? Do you have the neutral light connected at the gearbox? Have you tried it with the clutch lever pulled in?

Apart from slightly different engine mounts, are there any other difficulties/differences with installing a r engine into an f frame? will the r engine cope with the radiator on the f? would also have to change the cdi right?

Hooray for vintage cached pages

So.... you want a little more power....

Here is a write up explaining the installation of VF1000R motor into VF750FD (Interceptor) chassis. Read this through, then decide if you want to be a part of this madness.

Before we get to the fun part, I've got to state the following.

1) You need to consider local laws for getting the modified bike on the road. I have no idea of what system of roadworthiness is used in the United States, but please check this out BEFORE you start. Please comply to local laws.

2) This is a drastic modification, and while I have found it a very reliable conversion, the larger motor obviously places greater stresses on the chassis. In a recent teardown I found a crack in the frame on the chain side, horizontal member joining to frame rail. I don't know if this was due to the extra power or from suspension loads. It was easily fixed. Bike has had a hard life. In 12 years of ownership it has been written off 3 times (don't ask).

Please be aware of this fact - the chassis was never intended for use with this motor.

3) I'm compiling this information as accurately as possible, based on a vehicle imported to Australia. There may be differences in some components in your particular country. This is a record of my experience, and is supplied as is. Whilst I have attempted to be as accurate and honest as possible, I cannot be held liable for any damage or loss incurred from another's actions based in any way on application of the data contained herein.

OVERVIEW

OK. Now I can tell you that this conversion gives you the massive torque and sledgehammer power of the VF1000R motor whilst shedding approx. 44 pounds off the weight of a complete1000R. Add to this no more cam chain hassles due to gear driven cams, and the sweet handling of the interceptor chassis. The resultant bike is quick. My bike has seen 140mph with stock 750 gearing.

The installation of this motor is surprisingly easy. It literally bolts straight in. I have discovered that there are many shared components and dimensions between members of the VF family. There are however, areas where the engine interfaces with the chassis where some modification is required. Here is a list of these areas and what needs changing.

Exhaust System

1000R headers/collector required. However, as is, the1000R mufflers will not fit 750 hanger mount points.

Suggested handling: Get exhaust shop to cut off existing connecting pipe from muffler and make up and fit 2 x simple pipes welded to fit either aftermarket or 1000R mufflers. Mine cost $20. See diagram.

Radiators

750 Top and Bottom Radiators used. Top Radiator: No mods necessary.

Bottom radiator: To clear the larger header pipes, the bracket holding the bottom radiator to horizontal frame rail needs to spaced 25mm forward. See Diagram. Due to this forward location, bellypan cannot be used as it would hit front wheel. I have designed a replacement protective shroud, that can be made for peanuts. See diagram.

Coolant Pipes.

Push-on coolant pipes coming off heads between the V of the motor needs to be simply reversed, so that pipes exit on clutch side of motor and connect to existing 750 thermostat housing. All 750 water pipes, radiators and hoses should be used as before. Bottom radiator hose is a slightly tight fit between frame rail and motor, no biggie.

Centrestand

Bye, bye. 1000R has no centrestand due to bulbous exhaust collector. Now 750 shares this PIA.

Gearshift

1000R single piece shift lever must be used. It is slightly closer to footpeg than 750's original. I live with it, you may wish chop and weld gearshift lever.

Fuel Pump

Either 1000R or 750 can be used. 1000R has a sturdier metal body versus plastic body of 750, the 750's is already mounted and works just fine.

Battery

You need to think about a bigger battery. 750's original will work, but extra strain is placed on it. Be prepared for it to shit itself eventually. I removed all the "padding" from inside the battery box, and got a bigger battery - unfortunately ID code on this battery has been obliterated. It begins "CB...." I used duct tape in the areas where new battery would rub. It will just fit.

Airbox

Use 750's as 1000R's doesn't fit within frame rails. Because 750 airbox has slightly less volume, remove induction "horns" off front for better breathing (I also drilled two 20mm holes as well).

Carbies

Entire 1000R carb assembly including metal airbox base fits straight on to 750's plastic airbox .

Ignitor units

Either 750, 1000R or 1000F. 1000R has higher threshold for ignition cutout: (13000rpm)

Final drive sprocket

Use either. 1000R gearing allows higher top speed, 750 gearing allows wheelies any time, anywhere.

Suggested plan of Attack.

1) Get the donor motor complete with exhaust collector and suitable mufflers.

2) Get a VF750 Interceptor - preferably with a blown motor - you're only going to get rid of motor anyway!

3) If you have never removed a motor, get some help from someone who has. Use Honda's excellent factory manual for the 750, and if you get your hands on one, the 1000R manual (not totally mandatory, but does contain useful maintenance data.)

4) Follow the steps in the manual for engine removal. I would add my own experiential data, in that it is far easier to remove the frame from around the motor, than drop out the motor. To this end, I follow the book as far as all the crap you need to disconnect, then I remove the exhaust collector, then remove the entire front end of the bike (forks and front wheel). With a stand under the motor and the removeable frame rail removed, jiggle and lift the bike frame OFF the motor and wheel chassis AWAY on back wheel. You will probably need someone's assistance for this.

Now stick the new 1000R motor securely on the same stand, and reverse the procedure. you will find that she slips right on in! Follow notes as above, and basically, you're ready for an awesome experience.

There one last thing I need to mention. The rear cam cover was a tight fit between frame rails on the 750, but could be removed. Same thing now. You would swear you couldn't get it off with the clearance in evidence, and it will come off in either 30 seconds if you're lucky or half an hour if you're not - but it WILL come off!

This is a first draft of the written up proceedure. If you need any further advice, corrections or have any comments to add, please don't hesitate to email me either on sabmag or at tcdesign@talent.com.au

Best of luck. Remember - there's no replacement for displacement.

Hi there rhubarb. I think you used a VF1000RE engine in your project if I'm not mistaken. I recall rereading about your bike several times over the years. Loved it.

Our problem here in the US is we got the VF1000RF and VF1000RG in 1985 and 1986 only so they have the wider heads. That may preclude the R in the 750 frame but not the 1984 VF1000FE that we also got here.