I just recently experienced the infamous RR failure on my 99. This has really made me think about installing a waterproof voltmeter somewhere on the bike.
I have one, and I'm very pleased with it. Readings from a relayed cigarette lighter are within 0.1 volts from a multi-meter at the battery. Think about where you are going to mount it. Sometimes it's difficult for me to read mine due to the glare. See pic. I don't know what the options are, but if I was to do it over again I may look into a round dial like on hot rods because of the glare.
I have one, and I'm very pleased with it. Readings from a relayed cigarette lighter are within 0.1 volts from a multi-meter at the battery. Think about where you are going to mount it. Sometimes it's difficult for me to read mine due to the glare. See pic. I don't know what the options are, but if I was to do it over again I may look into a round dial like on hot rods because of the glare.
Thanks for the feedback and the pic, looks like the voltmeter belongs there. Also it looks like the speedo and tach have more glare than the voltmeter. Do you mean the voltmeter LED is too bright to read? Or is the glare from the voltmeter dependant on some angles not shown in the pic? I wonder whether the surface of the voltmeter can be roughend a little with a fine grit sandpaper to get rid of the glare.
Glare, the suns light reflecting off the surface of the meter so you can not read the instrument.
Over the winter I may move it down below the gauges into the fork well some place where the sun does not penetrate as much but will still be able to see it.
Shading it with your clutch hand to read is not a really big deal, it's not like you have to do it all the time.
I use a Signal Dynamics Heads Up Voltmeter. One LED, that glows or blinks red, amber or green. One hole in the dash and it's simple with no issues with sunlight or water.
I like the digital volt meters better. Here's why:
I believe you can tell sooner when your elect. system may be starting to have a problem. Lets say you have always been seeing a constant 14.4 at speed on the highway. Then you start seeing a constant 13.9 (all things being the same). Then a constant 13.7. Even these lower voltages are still within spec but something is changing and it would be wise to take a look at you elect. system. With an analog gage you might not even be able to see that slight change on the dial and the ones with the one LED (that changes color) would still probably be green.
FWIW, my brother has a Signal Dynamics on his 5th gen and he is very happy with it, although I tend to agree with Mark's reasoning. The whole point of the thing is to try and detect issues as early as possible. A digital or analog gauge (depending on the scale) seem to be the most effective
I like the digital volt meters better. Here's why:
I believe you can tell sooner when your elect. system may be starting to have a problem. Lets say you have always been seeing a constant 14.4 at speed on the highway. Then you start seeing a constant 13.9 (all things being the same). Then a constant 13.7. Even these lower voltages are still within spec but something is changing and it would be wise to take a look at you elect. system. With an analog gage you might not even be able to see that slight change on the dial and the ones with the one LED (that changes color) would still probably be green.
I agree. I just had a sudden charging system failure which my Signal Dynamics Heads-Up LED system did not detect. I run a Lithium battery which holds a higher voltage even when the charging system is failing, but will then start to fail to crank the bike over in cold weather for the morning start. My charging system was peaking at 13.2 volts, which was not enough to keep my Lithium battery topped up to the point where it can perform cold cranking. This is because my battery is slightly under-sized for the bike (Shorai have since upped the recommended battery sizes for all motorcycles in their catalogue).
I asked Signal Dynamics about their meter, and their response was that the range of "12.9 volts to 15.1 volts" as being OK was because of people with heated jackets and grips who would have otherwise been concerned by the Amber/Red light when idling (i.e. people asking a lot of their charging system when it's not generating the most power).
I think it's time for me to switch to a gauge or readout.
I recomend this VM 100 percent. Very reliable. Has the advantage of 3rd signal wire 4 exact reading from battery separatd to your switched power source.
Did a group buy of 30 units.
There is a 10 percent discount for ADVrider inmates
Just put this meter on my bike, velcroed to lower right of dash panel. Mine leads back to the switched side of a Fuzeblock with a 3 amp fuse and the power and signal wires twisted together. If you put one of these on plan on buying some of the smallest Posilock connectors first. I tried soldering first and the heat from the iron makes the insulation brittle and it broke. Granted, I wasn't using a pencil type iron....The meter states12.1 volts at idle, while my handheld meter says 12 and half at the battery so I have some loss in all the connections (battery to pigtail to butt connector to inline fuse to Fuzeblock to wire to Posilock to meter). It would be nice if these just came with about 4 feet of lead.
Meant to say 12.1 volts with key on, 14.2 with engine running and only went up slightly at speed, which is nice to know. I have to make some kind of sun visor for it though, barely readable out of the garage.
Mine arrived the other day.
It's a WP boxed insert type.
Green LED, two wire.
Where is the best area to run the 2 wire setup, securing to the top triple?
I thought about a direct link to the battery, with an inline switch.
Or maybe an ignition on scenario so I wouldn't forgte to switch it off.
Got mine but this thing is going to be impossible to see in the daylight.
I velcroed my Datel under the left side of my dash. Seemed to help with visibility. Of course I dont think any brand will do well in direct sunlight. Unless the sun is right on mine I usually dont have any problem seeing mine in the daytime.
I went with the Honda Marine voltmeter. It is backlit, waterproof, and available in white and black backgrounds. Someone else on here recommended it and I think that it works great. Where it is placed its a bit hard to see over the handlebars though. That's probably my one and only gripe but thats my fault for putting it there. It was also more expensive than the digital ones mentioned.
I just recently experienced the infamous RR failure on my 99. This has really made me think about installing a waterproof voltmeter somewhere on the bike.
I bought one, ten bucks shipped, right from China, do not like it, still in the electrical cupboard, even when off you can see the tubular LED's that look like four zeros, when powered up even the unlit LED's still show up. Too cheepo for me. Anyone want it ? Red numbers.
I went with the Honda Marine voltmeter. It is backlit, waterproof, and available in white and black backgrounds. Someone else on here recommended it and I think that it works great. Where it is placed its a bit hard to see over the handlebars though. That's probably my one and only gripe but thats my fault for putting it there. It was also more expensive than the digital ones mentioned.
The Honda Marine looks DOPE! I wish I woulda thought of it. Looks great, and probably deals with the sun better. When mine quits, I'm going that route. You said it was more expensive, do you mind sharing how much more?
Thanks, I am pretty happy with it. I purchased it from a Honda dealer for about $75 I believe. Yea, not cheap but I am optimistic that it will last as long as the bike does!
Got mine but this thing is going to be impossible to see in the daylight.
I velcroed my Datel under the left side of my dash. Seemed to help with visibility. Of course I dont think any brand will do well in direct sunlight. Unless the sun is right on mine I usually dont have any problem seeing mine in the daytime.
Datel v meter viewed from the saddle. Connection is via the two pin "trailer" wiring plug.
When the meter is unplugged I can use the connection to the battery to hook up my trickle charger.
The 12v charger plug is also wired direct to the battery and riveted to the plastic battery cover.
I still love my classic Datel meter. I tried a couple other options but waterproof was a rather subjective term it seems. Never had an issue with the Datel except the cost...but it was worth it to me.
guessing your meter is analog with an internal light so a small switch in the circuit is needed, mostly for the light. try to put switch on neg. side if possible, this stops accidentally shorting with a tool, etc. run directly to batt. posts as this will give most accurate input to the meter. should only need small guage wire (16 or less)
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Price: $29.95
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Manufacturer Code: 45-1405
Description
Red LEC Small Digital Voltmeter For Voltage Only-Comes With Wiring Harness And Cutting Is Required For Flush Mounting, Measures 1-1/4"X3/4"X1"Overall Depth. Will Work On Any 12-Volt System.
Found this one at Dave's Cycle Supply.
http://www.davescycl...d=0&item_id=393
I like the digital volt meters better. Here's why:
I believe you can tell sooner when your elect. system may be starting to have a problem. Lets say you have always been seeing a constant 14.4 at speed on the highway. Then you start seeing a constant 13.9 (all things being the same). Then a constant 13.7. Even these lower voltages are still within spec but something is changing and it would be wise to take a look at you elect. system. With an analog gage you might not even be able to see that slight change on the dial and the ones with the one LED (that changes color) would still probably be green.