How To Repair Broken, Or Missing Abs Body Tabs, And Hair Line Cracks

In 12/22/2011, I posted how to make an easy repairs on MC body parts. Since then I have noticed many of older bikes having ABS body parts have failed long before most bikes are ready for retirement. Last week I repaired my rear ABS tail section. I'm sure we all realize mounting tabs can become failure area. I will attempt to outline a simple method on how I make my repairs, such as a hair line crack, repair broken mounting tabs, and how to make missing mounting tabs. I repaired a hairline crack that was a little 2 inches long, and completely rebuilt two badly broken tail assembly tabs. It would be helpful to revisit my earllier posting if you plan to make any ABS body repairs. http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/69704-easy-repair-methods-for-plastic-mc-body-parts/#entry815472.

About a month ago I notice a small hair line crack on my right side tail section. I made a quick temporary repair, because I notice the crack moments before I left for a ride, and I didn't want the crack to become worse. My temporary repair was super quick, I placed a piece of clear packing tape over the crack, certainly not the best type of repair, but it works! My plan was to later remove the rear tail section to make a proper permanent internal glass repair at my first opportunity. Then about two weeks ago my tail section was beginning to separate along the back of my seat cover. I knew the fairing's separation was related to it's internal mounting tabs had failed.

To make any ABS repairs you will need to remove your ABS body part as required and you will want to study the supplied photos.

Removed your body part, all small fasteners with broken plastic tab parts should be placed into a small plastic sandwich bag, Take care not to lose any of your broken plastic pieces, Fit check your broken plastic parts, clean them with a brush and alcohol, then carefully CA glue all your small broken plastic parts back together. The CA will dry in less than a minute. I would suggest to use a medium thickness CA, and fill your gaps with CA and baking soda. Be extra careful not to get any CA on the outside of the your fairing's painted surface, because it will make a terrible mess!

Next I removed the clear packing tape on the outside of my firing that protected the fairing;s hair line crack, then sand, clean the back side area of the cracked area again using alcohol, and a paper towel. One the back side of the crack surface has been cleaned, then lightly put a few drops of CA on the damaged area, and rub the glued area to insure the CA has properly adhered to the damaged area. Be sure to to fill all void repairs in your broken tabs. All tabs must to be glued back, and aligned straight as possible. Study how your repaired tabs interconnect to another. The two sides where the tabs interconnect to one another must be flat, and true to one another. It's on the opposite of the tabs is where they don't make contact with it's mating tab is were you will want to reinforce repair areas with fiberglass and epoxy slow cure laminating resin, not polyester resin.

In the event you're missing tab, mold a temporary tab with modeling clay, fit check as required, adjust, then carefully cover one side of your clay tab with two plies of 2 oz. fiberglass cloth, and rub CA into your cloth. Next using a dental pick, extract the modeling clay, and apply at least one ply of 2 oz. cloth to the opposite side where the clay was removed. Finally sand your newly formed tab, clean double check fitting, and fiberglass as you will with your broken repaired tabs as stated below.

Carefully mix your epoxy laminating resin, allowing a small amount of laminating to be thickened with micro-balloons to resemble mayo. Brush the thickened mayo resin on the flat portion of your tabs where they mate to one another, Then apply two pies of 2 oz. cloth, repeat the same process of the opposite sides of the glued tabs, and apply 3 plies of 2 oz cloth, followed by 3 plies of 6 oz. cloth. Allow the resin to set firm, but not cured and trim the cloth with an exacto. file, and sand the tabs accordingly. Your repaired tabs are now good to go, once you opened up the screw through holes. Your tabs will prove to be very strong. If you are planning to paint your fairings, I'd recommend to reinforce all your tabs accordingly to insure your remaining tabs don't fail at a later date.

The fairing having a hair line crack was be backed with at least one ply of 2 oz. cloth after the CA had been applied, followed by 3 plies of 6 oz. cloth. I found it necessary to rub out the painted crank are on my fairing, then polish it, then wax all the repaired fairings,

There are other ways to repair broken, or missing tabs, and even a cracked fairings, but the method I described has proved to be very successful. The last photo shows a repaired fairing, and my custom epoxy fiberglass seat cowl.

NOTE: 12/12/2013 Update

Should you have used 3-4 generation body parts in need of repairs, and you aren't interested in them, please contact, because I do buy used parts.

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NOTE: 5/11/2013 Update

The other day I was having a discussion with a resin chemist. He concurred the materials, and the methods I've suggested do work with ABS fairings. This chemist largely works in the automotive sector, who works with ABS, and with both epoxy and polyester materials. He mentioned several reasons why polyester resins don't work very well with ABS types of repairs. Two reasons he stated, were polyester resins have a higher shrink value than epoxy laminating resins, and they cure too rapidly which affects the bonding to ABS materials. There were other factors mentioned. I wanted to update this early posting, because it's in the beginning of my discussion on how to make ABS repairs.

NOTE: 5/11/2013 Update

This posting covers a great deal of material, so I posted a set of photos showing what can be done to a bike that has been badly damaged. This posting covers all the necessary techniques on how to make the repairs shown in my below slide show. My last posting has information pertaining to all the slide show photos on page 8. http://s775.photobucket.com/user/vfoam/slideshow/Ninja%20Work

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Thanks for the info and write up! That is a really good way to fix up the larger areas for sure. I just finished (yesterday) mending 8 peices of my bodywork (yes, that is nearly every piece). Some of which were broken in half.

I wish I had seen this because I would have tried it out. Instead, I mended all pieces and created a few from scratch using just my sodering iron, some spare plastic and a lot of sand paper with some bondo/filler.

The sodering iron easily melts the broken pieces together and stitches cracks. You fill in the holes and divits with the extra plastic that you melt and us for some fill. Sand Sand Sand and wash. Then use filler (very lightly) to fill. Then wash again and paint.

I suck at it so my bodywork isn't great but I'm redoing it all myself with paint and everything. Anyway, Patience is the key for any route you take to fix your bodywork.

Thanks for the post and advice.

Or you could just try this stuff. It is fabulous for ABS fixology.

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One big advantages of bonding materials such as plastic welder, it allows you more working time, and your set up times can ranges from 5- 20 minutes, depending on the product that was selected. I am use to CA types adhesives, and quick setting materials, and I don't need to use any hot knifes, or plastic welding devices. Baking soda and CA instantly fills most gaps, fixes nearly all cracks, and it takes to dremeling nicely, but it's a harder surface to sand or file than ABS. If you have to fill a large gap, try using 3M black electrical tape beneath the open cracked surface, then fill the gap with backing soda then hit the backing soda with your CA glue, then you have an instant tough filled gap, that's ready for sanding, and spot premiering to make ready for painting. Once the gap has been repaired, just peal the electrical tape off your ABS part. Smackdoogle like you stated, " Patience is the key"!

I posted my repair method strictly as a repair option. I know there are other ways to make satisfactory repairs. I just wanted to suggest a method I have found that works. For those who have other suggestions, please post your comments, so we can have an assortment of different ideas.Thanks for the two new postings.

The other day I made some rather extensive repairs to an entire aft fairing assembly. I purchased a complete used tail faring including lights. I knew the assembly was in need of major repairs long before I bought the part. The faring had brakes, cracks, bends ,and some minor missing of some pieces. Previously the fairing had been repair twice by at least two different individuals. I stated this due to the different methods in the previous ABS repairs. Some small cracking was repaired with resin and glass cloth, which still were in tack, but many other areas appeared to be of JB weld, which had issues! The JB weld had mounds of material over the reworked areas, often on both sides of the brakes, which didn't allow the parts to correctly fit together, and the JB didn't give the necessary structural strength to the broken pieces. In other words, globing material on broken tabs isn't the way to go. You want to always first try to bond the fractures together along their broken lines, not pilling material onto, or on the bottom of a parts. Again-- I highly recommend to clean the broken surface, and then CA the fractures, on their separated areas. A small bottle of CA cost less than $6.00 at your hobby store, and most of us already have rubbing alcohol, and baking soda, so give it a try, then flex your repaired area to insure your repair will hold, and if necessary glass the area as I suggested in my original posting. Tomorrow I'll add a few photos of a completely repaired tail section. The neat thing with my repair, there are no more screws needed to hold any parts together, and there are no longer any ugly factory visible seems seam lines. All previous seamed lines have been filled and sanded, and are near ready for it's first stage of primering. One other thing that's very important. You should always when possible to tape your parts together, attached, and bolted everything to your bike's frame. Remember your glued faring parts will be going back together as you hung your parts! My technique will allow you to position your body parts exactly as you want them, even if they were slightly bent!!! I glued my whole tail assembly together with no internal screws, and everything fits very nicely. I did snap the side pins into the bike's frame, and I bolted all the body parts to the frame as they required. Now the entire aft tail assembly goes on an off with no problems, and all the body mounting holes correctly line up. The reason why the tail body parts were originally screw together was because of factory fabrication purposes. One might say I can no longer replace a small segmented part since my tail assembly is one complete unit, but that's statement isn't correct! It's rather simple to repair. The technique will be to cut the damaged segment out, and then carefully using a Dremel grind out the old damaged part, tape, attach the assembly after everything has be aligned and hung, then CA the necessary parts, then fill the required areas with baking soda and CA. If your repair was done correctly, it should be more secure than your original factory screwed sections.

I thought I should make a quick photo post in case I don’t return to my posting for a few days. Today’s photos illustrates phase one of my fairing being CA glued, then with CA glued with baking soda, and finally rough sanded. I must mention once again CA with baking soda works exceptional well, but CA and baking soda isn't very friendly when it comes to sanding, so I typically do a light fill, followed by a preglaze of body filler, sand, then lightly spray with primer followed by wet block sanding. Later I’ll glass reinforce the fairing’s inside repairs, fill all unnecessary screw holes, and unwanted voids with a mixture of epoxy laminating resin, and micro-balloons. The epoxy mixture should be about the thickness of thin peanut butter. Next sand off as required, and apply an additional coat of primer, then block wet sand. Within a few days I'll return to do just that, and at that time I’ll post another photo of the fairing’s reinforced areas, along with all the filled holes.

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This afternoon I'm adding a quick note with a single photo. I applied two light coats of white primer to the aft area where my fairing's reconstruction work had been done. The photo shows half of the tail section had been filled, sanded, primed, and the other other half had only been primed filled with body glaze, but not yet sanded. Once all my repair work has been completed, my reworked areas will be reinforced with carbon fiber and epoxy resin.

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Last month I was touring with two other fellows, one had a 2001 Triumph Sprint which does look very similar to our VFRs, but the Sprint appeared as if it got hit with a low dosage of steroids. but in reality it's specification are very similar to our VFR. The Sprint has about 10 more horse power, and is a leaner @ 20 pounds, but never the less there are still some notable differences. I started this discussion on how to repair our ABS body parts, and soon I'll have completed my ABS repair work. This discussion was to provide a practical means with a step by step method on how to make your own body repairs. Elsewhere in the form there's a thread as to why we don't see more fourth generation VFR bikes. It's my impression many bike owners move on to another bike, and sometimes the reason has been due to their body parts have begun to fail, and new parts become hard to get, or might not be available. This thread will show how we can properly repair our worn body parts.. Often our body parts have failed due to their attachment points. I suggest why not make a correct repair, reinforce our older parts as required, and paint your bike if your satisfied with your bike's performance, or maybe purchase a bike to your liking that's in need of some body work for a huge reduction is cost, and then make those repairs, but only after you have researched your costs and effort Sooner or later a bike will go down! Your spill might be in your garage, in the parking lot, or it can be dumped on a surface street. If this happens then we're faced with damage body parts, and some painting regardless if the bike is new or old! These problems are a reality! I'm not in a position to buy new bikes because of a minor spill. Today's generation of modern motorcycles mechanically can out live our past older bikes. Our older bikes had metal body parts, but our power trains wore out before our body parts. Today's body parts are made of ABS plastic, and composite materials, which most of the time will not last the same duration of our current bike's mechanical abilities. The cost of selling a sound bike, due to road rash, then face the costs of another bike, pay the additional finical interest, increase of insurance, registration fees, and the continued depreciation of any newer bikes in my opinion does always offset the cost of maintaining a good pleasurable bike. I I will say, if your riding needs change, then a change of bike should be a consideration. By next week I hopefully will have concluded this thread on repairing ABS body parts, but I hope to go one step further. I plan to customize my repaired tail section by streamlining the AFT area. I want to make it more like the Sprint's Aft end, and install a new LED tail light assembly, and do away with our individual turn signal lights. My new LED light will be have it's turn signals incorporated into it's tail and brake light. My present license plate light are LED lights, and it has been currently mounted under my brake light for over a year. That photo has already posted in one of my earlier postings.

Today I've posted some additional photos. Earler I illustrates a VFR Aft end with seat cowl. Please observe the upper extreme AFT end has seam lines. My repaired fairing has no ugly seam lines. My last photo reflects what I hope to achieve by installing a new LED tail light assembly. I already have a mold to for our VFR seat cowl, and I may consider making a mold for my new tail assembly, and possibly a replacement fairing to reflect the Sprint's front upper front faring.

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Next week I sold have all my necessary repair done on the tail fairing, but mean while I've attached a rendering as to what my modified aft tail section may look like with my new tail light

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Just curious, have you tried doing this with a solvent glue like Weld-On #16? It's supposed to disolve ABS then evaporate and resolidify the plastic, in effect melting them together. The reason for asking is I need to fix a few small cracks in my fairings. My experience with CA glues is they tend to work great on porous materials but not well on non-porous like plastic since there's nothing to hold-on to.

-Richard

I personally haven't used Weld-on #16, but I've checked their website, and this is what they had to say about there product:

Fast-drying, high-strength acrylic cement. Also bonds styrene, butyrate, polycarbonate and other plastics and porous surfaces. Medium bodied.

I believe Weld-on 16 is mostly solvent. The way it works is by melting the plastic material together. It probably won't give you much of a bond on any other materials.

Often there are several ways to correct most problems, I've enjoy great success using the correct CA, and by backing up my repairs with additional composite material whenever possible. ABS ages with time, and cracks occur often due to fatigue, so any time a repair is needed, I strongly suggest to fix the immediate damage, then back it up when ever possible, then you should be good to go!

I've attached a photo of my bike I repaired using CA and glass, I outlined two areas that I repaired. My repairs can't be seen in my photo, but I did have two good cracks, I would like to suggest you take photos of your fairings, but be sure to mark your areas of concern where the cracks are, and accurately describe your cracks, post photos of your cracked fairings, and I'll suggest how you might want to repair your cracks. I'll post my suggestions, you make your own repairs, and please post before during and after your repair work, and then at the conclusion you evaluate your own structural repair work. In the end I honestly think you'll be satisfied with you repair work.

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Resin,

Wasn't meaning to challange you, just curious, since I've used CA with wood, fiberglass and carbon fiber and always found that it's a brittle joint. I have resorted to laying up some lightweight glass or carbon fiber strips with a thin epoxy painted over... but that was on gliders then using gel coat over it to restore the smooth finish. With the ABS bodywork I assumed that the small flexing from wind pressure, knees, pusing etc could lead to additional cracking at the repaire site, but it sounds like you back the repair with glass which would stiffen it up giving it reinforcement.

As for my repairs, I had to fix 2 cracked tabs on the left main fairing my '92 VFR and a small crack on my '09 K1300S under the lip on the upper fairing over the ram air duct. I'm happy with the results in both cases as the solvent did what it was supposed to, reflowed the plastic where the cracks were and it's a solid bond with close to the same flexability properties as the oriiginal material. The cracked area is visible if you looks close and there's a small bead where the cement was pressed out of the joint, but since these are in hidden areas (inside the bodywork) I didn't bother trying to get it perfect. I have already buttoned up the bikes so no pics for now. Seems like we're both having success in fairing repairs, which as you indicated becomes a necessary skill as the bikes age. I should have mentioned that using weld-on or other ABS specific solvent glues would only work if there are no missing pieces and the break is clean since it simply melts the 2 sides back together again. Your approach allows you to fill gaps. Different tools for different problems. BTW, have you tried using zip kicker on the CA? It's a spray that you use on the wet CA and it creates an instant bond. It allows you to use thin CA to get into cracks then you can hit it to set it/ Works great for making fillets!

Anyway, thanks for sharing your technique.

-Richard

Richard,

You are correct! I normally do back-up my repairs with several light plies of fiberglass cloth. I may even bond in some additional thin pieces of similar plastic material, but carbon can be too stiff. I sometimes use kicker, and if I can I like to spot drill tiny holes at the end of each crack, grind small amounts of scrap plastic into a fine powder, then fill all holes, and all large cracks with baking soda, or my plastic powder. Once the holes and cracks have been filled. I next hit the filled holes with CA, and if necessary I will use kicker. The spot drilled holes filled with plastic powder and CA will stop your cracking. I prefer to use baking soda when ever possible in place of scrap ground plastic powder, only because it's easier. This technique can be used of plexi glass windscreen! Before ending this thread I'll show a repaired crack from the back side, where I've backed-up my repair work with fiberglass and resin.In regard to maybe your missing sections of plastic, you can some times mock-up those areas with modeling clay, resin and glass to your ABS part, then remove your clay piece, clean then do additional glassing as required.

You're in the Bay Area that's above me, I'm in the high desert area outside LA, where we have been having too many days of triple digit temperatures, so I've not been doing much glass work. Over this weekend, I will get back to working on my ABS body parts.

Here's an interesting article on plastic bodywork repair: http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2012/08/30/tech-tip-solvent-welding-plastics/ NOTE: I've not tried this, but it does sound logical. Maybe someone out there has tried this method, if so, please post your results!

Thanks for your valued input. All information is good! Please keep us posted on your repairs!

As long as you are layering on epoxy and glass to the paint, it will stick ok, but FYI, epoxy and polyester resins don't actually bond to bare ABS. Two part adhesives (Plastic Welder, Loctite for Plastics) from the home stores, or DuraMix urethane, Electrical Connection methymethacrylate, Weld-On 58 2 part,etc. will make a strong joint on raw, clean sanded ABS. You can mold a part with the two part compounds, especially if you form in some stainless steel mesh. Check out the book at Urethane Supply.http://www.urethanesupply.com/book.php

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Not meaning to hijack your thread, but I think the info ought to be correct or someone might create a frustrating repair if the materials are not right.

I'm sorry I' haven't been able to post any recent activity. I've been occupied with other things, however I will be posting a complete fairing restoration. I will completely repair an entire body assembly as required for a 95 VFR. I've been informed the aft tail section might be a total loss, never the less I will evaluate all the body part damages. I won't be getting the parts until sometime next week.. The damaged bike went down @ approximately 25 miles per hour. I will make the repairs, and post photos of my work while the repairs are in progress. I've been involved with composite, vacuum forming and testing of ABS parts for over 30 years. I will attempt to explain how one can make their own successful fairing part repairs. Granted most of my materials may not come from your local home supply outlets, but again your quality body paints, and some supplies can't be purchased from your typical home hardware stores either.

I posted what the bike and body parts will look like.

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You are my hero!!!

:fing02: :fing02: :fing02:

Yesterday I got a second 95 VFR. In doing so I broke a few metal trailer parts, due to rough road vibration, and one of the clip-on handle bars came off. The handle bar came off, because a previous owner placed riser under the clip-on bars. The bars were raised an inch or so, and in doing this the downward force of the tie down straps, along with trailer's vibration popped off one of my handle bars. Thank god I had a solid front wheel capturing locking wheel caulk, otherwise I'm sure I would have lost my bike. I experienced metal fatiguing problems with my trailer, including me losing my license plate, because the plate was held on with a angle metal bracket, which broke at it's 90 degree bend. Allow me to say this-my CA repaired plastic radiator didn't fail, but I certainly experienced trailer problems. The trailer I used was a Harbor Freight trailer. I'll definitely have to double check everything and make a few trailer upgrades before my trailer can used again. I think the trailer's tires are in need of balancing, and when the trailer is being towed without any loads, I'll reduce the trailer's tire pressure. Back to my CA repaired radiator, that isn't something I'd recommend doing, but at the time that was done as a temporary repair, which held for over 750 miles.

My 95 VFR front fairings can be repaired, but maybe the front left upper unit might be replaced. I'm missing maybe too many small pieces. In a few days I'll post some fairing repair work. I may end up repair my upper front fairing, but for now, I'll just see how the rest of my project comes out, before I decide on maybe replacing my upper front unit. The rear tail unit will be replaced with the one I've been working on. I've attached a photo of my bike on trailer, after being towed from hell. I've also illustrated the part that's in question.

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We'll make a typical small repair on one of the smaller inner plastic parts. Many small inner pats are made of plastic, like your old plastic car kits were so the CA will make a quick clean repair, but when it's a tab, that has broken off I usually back it up with additional material. I like to use several light plies of 2 oz fiberglass cloth, not matt cloth. I prefer to do all my small CA gluing all at the same time. However in this case, I'll just address only one black inner side duct. The duct I'll be repairing has two broken tabs, plus a few small cracks running inside my duct. If you look closely at my photo you'll see the two broken tabs, and the small cracks that are about 2 inches long. later this will be filled, and pianted.

Steps I

Clean your plastic parts with a kitchen cleaning soap like 409, then risen with water. It's import to clean everything, and risen well. Take care not to misplace your screws, and make sure the correct screws are used when assembling your parts..

Test your CA, get comfortable with it, and get a few cotton ( Q-tips).

Test fit your parts, then apply a thin coat of CA to both sides of the parts that are to be glued together.

Ca your part, check for alignment, hold until the CA has dried. This won't take long.

Once your CA has set, check to insure your part has be properly glued, and apply a second light application of CA, and use a Q-Tip tip to insure the glue has been applied all along your gluing joints. Always double check all your work.

Use a file or emery board dress your repaired part as necessary, and possibly add a light final application of CA glue.

Put your part aside, then repeat this step as necessary to all your smaller similar type broken plastic pieces.

Later, we'll reinforce your smaller parts as required, and some may require filling for painting, such as where the hair line cracks had occurred.

Next time I'll repair a larger pulled-away counter sunk mounting hole in one of my front side panels, and at afterwards, I'll reinforce the broken mounting hole area, and I'll reinforce my two repaired air duct tabs.

I've attached a few photos showing my damaged body parts. You can see all the small pieces that makes up a jig-saw puzzle. Some of smaller pieces go to the tail section.

Note: The entire broken tail fairing will be replaced with another unit.

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SEBSPEED

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/58195-4th-gen-tail-section-made-into-one-piece/

Photo work showing fairing and counter sunk mounting boss:

Others have posted materials and procedures they have used. Some have stated fiberglass will not adhere to ABS, and it has been mentioned repairs should be backed up. I will try to address those concepts. In my recent photos it can be seen I have a collection of small broken ABS pieces. Some are considered scraps, I highly recommend to practice making a few sample repairs on your throw away junk pieces. Whatever repair method you'll use, test your technique on some scrap pieces so you'll can become familiar with your material Always test your repairs.

Your repair parts must be clean, and they have to be prepared properly for satisfactory results. Many repairs failed, because the repair areas were not clean, or the repair procedures failed because the repairing material wasn't used correctly, so what ever type of repair material you select follow your manufactures instructions.

A major reason why some repairs fail, was because the broken, or cracked areas were not bonded correctly. I often have found someone attempted to make a repair, but they failed to get good penetration into the their brakes, when gluing was being done. No bonding can expect to work, if a repaired area wasn't properly prepared, or if the gluing or welding agent got pilled onto their part. Don't use the glob method, You can't smear something on and expect a repair to hold! If the smeared technique is used you will not get satisfactory results. Clean your part, your part can't be too clean. Use all material material correctly, get good penetration into your brakes, or cracked areas, and back you repairs when possible. Remember all your parts are old, they have been fatigued already, they broke due to wear, or impact, and your part if it remains in service long enough it can eventually break again. I say it can break again, because your part is already an old used fatigue piece of plastic.On the bike I'm working on, I've seen several different attempts to made a repair. I've seen areas where there was absolutely no bonding material applied to brakes, the JB weld, silicone, or fiberglass sometimes was pilled on the ABS parts. Covering a part will not produce a satisfactory repair, you have to get bonding penetration into your damaged areas.

I tested my CA, it must be fresh. One of my three repairs I made on my side fairing with CA could have been completed without backing up my repair. I CA glued one of my small vain type broken pieces of plastic. It was in the area where the gray air guards screws in to the duct's openings. I had to back the brake with micro-balloons, resin, and fine glass. This was gone when I fiberglassed the area where I'm missing a few slotted fingers where the gray air guards become attached to the side of the duct's opening.

I cleaned, sanded, and then CA glued my broken counter sunk mounting boss. Later I'll grin away around the boss to make a strong filet of West Systems epoxy resin and chopped glass.

I CA glued a broken vain finger back into the main air duct, and backed it up epoxy resin chopped glass, and several light piles of fiberglass..

I CA glued a large brake on the fairing's bottom running from the bottom of the fairing into the air duct. The repair was originally backed with 3M electrical tape,

Note: The electrical tape helps hold a broken part together, when gluing. This helps prevent the CA from running all over the place, and the tape will peel off once the CA glue has dried.

I cut a piece of smooth clear plastic, waxed the plastic only in the area where the fiberglass and epoxy resin will go. Next I sprayed a coat of contact cement onto the duct area. The contact cement holds the form plastic sheet to make the missing vain fingers. Once the epoxy resin has dried, I pulled away the plastic sheet, then later I'll detail the glassed area with a Dremal, to make the missing the vain fingers, later the contact cement will be removed form the ducted area.

Note: Addtional work is still reuired to complete all these repairs.

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I'm setting-up to make a few partial molds to make small replacement pieces:

I'm in the process of setting-up a work station to generate a few missing fairing pieces. I will be making a few small partial molds These small molds will be used to make missing fairing parts.

NOTE: Often we aren't able to collect all the necessary missing pieces to complete a faring repair. My next posting will

show how to make your lost small pieces. I'll also show how to attach molded parts.to your fairings.

Repaired broken corners;

In my last posting I stated I'll make a partial mold, and show how to attach a partial molded section to a major component. I've made a change, because I became lucky over the weekend! I actually found two small tiny pieces that I had assumed were lost. I CA two small pieces back their to their fairings. The VFR I'm working on went down on January 2012, as a result this bike became totaled. The broken fairing parts were gathered up from the street, the tiny broken fairing pieces were carefully bagged, and then stored in hopes the fairings could be repaired. My goal is to turn my purchased salvage bike back to it's earlier years of glory. It only took me a few minutes of cleaning, and gluing to make my two simple repairs. My photos show my two broken corner areas. I CA glued these two pieces back together, tested my glue joints, lightly sanded both parts, and now they're almost ready for primer. Later I will reinforce my repairs as I've previously illustrated elsewhere. Even though my gluing repairs seems sufficient, I'd rather show caution, than be sorry.

Note: For my photo I used blue tape to hold my broken pieces in place.

Next time I will show how to make a easy repair on a void area.

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Shortly I will illustrate how to rebuild a used upper side fairing. My current upper left front fairing as shown below is in need of too many repairs, so I elected to rebuild another replaceable part. I will post how to make a mold, how to lay-up a part made from a simple mold, and how to draft a molded glass part to a fairing section.

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Since I began this thread I've been gathering damaged parts to complete my fairing rebuild project. Last night I hopefully completed my my search of parts. In last posting I mentioned I'll be making a mold, how to lay-up a part made from a simple mold, and how to draft a molded glass part to a fairing section. I now have aan set of four upper left front side fairings. My selection of four fairings should allow me to make one good fairing. Normally I would get a complete faring, maybe one in need of some of minor repairs, but unfortunately that cost isn't in my budget, so I'll use pieces from four fairings to make one fairing. The best fairing of the lot has been previously repaired with zip ties. My zip tied fairing is being posted in time for Halloween. It's been named the Frankenstein fairing, because it looks as if it had been stitched together! Check out all the zip tie stiching.

The first of my three photos illustrates what my completed faring should look like. The other two photos shows my collection of damaged fairings that will be used for the repairs.

Wish me luck!

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This evening I made progress with my ABS fairing repairs. Later I will do the fiberglass reinforcing. Right now I'm having a difficult time typing, because I just finished my CA gluing for the evening. I use my fingers to burnish my CA glue into some cracked areas, and in doing so, I built up large globs of dried CA glue on the tips of my fingers. The dried glue makes typing extremely difficult. The manufactures doesn't recommend spreading their CA glue with your fingers, but some foolish individuals do dumb things!

I typically buy only the minium amount of CA glue for any given job. My CA preference is ZAP, which can be bought at most local hobby shop. I bought two small $5.00 bottles of Zap @ 0.25 oz (7g). I recommend using their green label bottle, it's a medium thickness. I also suggest buying one 2 oz small spray can of ZAP zip kicker. I try not to use the the kicker, unless it's necessary. The kicker sets-up your CA instantly, but the kicked glue joints aren't as strong as compared to to those glue joints that weren't accelerated. Remember we CA glue our joints several times, often baking soda is used to fill void areas. I find it best to use 3-M black electrical tape to hold your parts together when gluing. The tape also helps to prevent the glue from running all over the place. I prefer to glue from the inside of a part, and have my tape on the outside of the part. Your tape will also hold your baking soda in the voids. Once you have the baking soda applied carefully drop one or two drops of CA glue at a time, allow your CA glue to soak into your baking soda. The CA will sets-up in about 20 seconds, then simply peel the electrical tape away, and repeat your gluing steps as necessary. Try to keep your CA glue tip out of your work, or your tip will become clogged. Take care not to knock your CA bottles over, and keep the caps on your bottles when they're aren't being use. Never use old CA glues. I store my CA glues in a small shop refrigerator, because CA glues have a longer shelf life, if they're kept cold, but don't freeze them!

One of my fairings will be use as a master. The master is used for molding missing sections. Your master should be finished smooth, and true as possible, because the accuracy of any molded part is completely dependent on the quality of it's master mold. All of my fairing sections have flaws around their turn signal, so I will install my turn signal into it's socket, mold over my turn signal's lens, remove my mold, dress the mold, make a fiberglass part, and then open the glassed lens area. There will be some minor grinding of fiberglass. If I have you happen to be slightly confused, your shouldn't worry, because later I'll post photos that clarifies these steps. I was able to CA glued my fairing with their tie wraps in place. Once my CA had dried, I cut the tie wraps, and pull them out with my cutters.The CA glue doesn't stick to plastic tie wraps. The CA , the kicker, and the baking soda I recommended works well on our Honda ABS parts. Remember to first clean your parts, and then finally clean them again with rubbing alcohol, and make sure the alcohol has completely dried before doing any CA gluing. Note: Grinding, sanding, filling will be required to complete your fairing repairs. In a day or two I'll post photos of my fairings while they were being repaired.

Today I posted four photos. Number 1 photo shows two upper left front fairings that had their brakes repaired, minus the necessary fiberglass reinforcement. All reinforcement will be done later.The fairing having the tie wraps will be used as my master plug. I will make two parts from my master plug, then I will draft my molded parts to my fairing. on my second. One molded part will go where the turn signal void area is, and the second part will be an upper tab that attaches to the upper frame near the fuel tank. My first photo.

Since many of our VFRs are 17 years old, and after I had I collected fairing parts from six different bikes, Inoticed most of my used parts had previous repairs. I observed all sorts of repair methods. The methods range from tie wraps, silicone, JB wield, polyester resin with fiberglass, tape, and all sorts of adhesives were used. I found in most cases, the preparations appeared to lacked properly bonding of the broken parts. Basically, material was just plied on to the inside of the fairing, and when resin was used, the parts weren't properly prepared for gluing. I also noticed the thickness of the faring material isn't consistent, and that's because of how the manufacture formed their parts, and anytime you have thin ABS material, with sharp unsupported areas like large light openings with sharp corners then we can exspect failure. Later I will discuss how we can help over come this problem. The faring that I selected to be my replacement fairing was cleaned, tightly fitted before gluing, and filled with baking soda, ground smooth, and sanded, but not final sanded.

The second photo shows the back side of my repaired fairing. The dark areas will be ground back, so I can apply my reinforcement material. These areas will be glassed later. All my repaired glue joints were properly filled with baking soda, and several applications of CA were given to to all my repairs. Once my repairs were made, I double checked my repairs, and I insure they were a solid repair.

My third photo shows a missing tab attachment area. The fairing tab attaches to the bike's upper frame near it's fuel tank.

My fourth photo illustrates a major crack. This area was previously repaired with just tie warps Today I CA glued the brake, filled the tie wrap holes, and I just rough sanded my repaired. This repair will required further attention before I can make a new replacement tab. Later my new tab will be drafted to the fairing, and it will be reinforced.

I suggest practice making some minor repairs with some scrap material,,so you can become similar with this repair technique.

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Thanks so much for this post, I will follow it with interest. Your fairings look almost as bad as mine, so there is hope after all!

Hi Bryan,

I started posting my repairs, so fellows like yourself can repair your own fairings. Replacement parts are getting costly and hard to locate, so in order to keep our 3rd & 4th versions looking good, repairs are going to have to be made. Why not practice on a broken part? If you properly CA your part, and back it up with fiberglass you'll have a satisfactory repair.

I attached a photo to help illustrate what type of a repair you may want to first try. First clean and CA your part as I have mentioned earlier, then lightly test you glued joint, by gently flexing your part, and check to make sure it's connecting fairing section will align up correctly, If so, then plan where the glassing will be done. You don't want to interfere with joining fairing section areas. Once your satisfied, prepare for glassing as I mentioned earlier, apply your epoxy laminating resin to back side of your part, then work your cloth in. I suggest 2 piles of light cloth, and followed by 1-2 plies of 6 oz. cloth. Now simply allow your epoxy to cure for at least 24 hours, then flex test your part as necessary, trim, and sand, You now should be ready for paint preparation.

If you are uncertain abut the cloth, PM and I'll send you a free small sample of fiberglass, so you can at least make one repair.

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I was asked how I tape my broken parts, so I attached a fairing photo showing several major cracks Notice: Electrical tape was pulled tight, because it can be stretched. I originally applied my tape going across it's cracks. Be sure to use as many strips of electrical tape as necessary to get your fairing back to it's original shape. Next CA your cracks. This was done from the inside of my fairing, afterwards fill all voids using baking soda, and CA. Note: You can use additional tape strips running length wise with your cracks, if it's necessary to hold everything in place. Once your CA has cured, peel your tape off, file, sand your glued areas as required. Later from the insides reinforced your repairs with epoxy resin and fiberglass cloth. I'm doing some mechanical work on my VFR, so there's a good chance I may not make another posting for a couple of days.

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I found this to work on a crack in my front fairing around a bolt hole. All stuff available from Home Depot.

Oatley Purple Primer and a big thick piece of black ABS plumbing pipe (don't use the white PVC stuff).

I drilled a bunch of holes in the ABS pipe to create some ABS plastic shavings and added them to the primer.

I let it disolve for a day and added a bit more till it was kind of the consistency of thick cold maple syrup. I put a light film of this in the crack and a thicker film on the back using the applicator brush built into the lid of the primer. Then taped the pieces together with masking tape to cure. Took about a day to cure, but it's stood up so far (3 months) to the flexing of the fairing bolt going in and out. Substitute red legos or extra fairing for the black ABS pipe if you are lucky enough to have extra of those (any abs plastic similar to what the fairing is made of)..

with this great write up i will try this myself. question though. do i take baking soda = sodium bicarbonate or baking powder = sodium bicarbonate with an accidifying agent and a drying agent???

You want to use the baking soda, not baking powder. Many people put an open box of baking soda in their refrigerators to help reduce nasty food odors that tend to collect in a stale refrigerator. Please excuse my box of baking soda that accidentally got opened at it's wrong end.

I repaired my fairings broken out mounting boss by reinstalling my fairing's pulled out mounting boss, double checked it's fit, then put tape on the outside, Applied my CA, brushed in a small amount of baking soda to make a tiny baking soda fillet, then applied CA once again. When the CA went off, smoke came rushing up. Next I ground the area with my dremal tool, and I lightly glassed the inside area. Now that mounting boss is now more secure than ever before!

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The below photos show an oil cooler fairing that had one of it's mounting tabs broken off, and the other mounting tab, had several small fractures. Earlier I showed this fairing. I used tape to hold the tab in place so it could be properly glued back together.

Note: Before I CA glued my broken tab, I did a fit check to insure my tab's alignment was correct. I also might mention putting your backing soda in to a better dispensing bottle will make it easier to apply your soda. While I'm suggesting hints, often I glue a large fender washer on the bottoms of my CA bottles, this helps prevent from knocking your CA bottle over.

My second photo illustrates how nicely my repaired tabs came out without the use of any body filler. After the tabs were repaired, I did a minor flex stress test to insure they were properly repaired. One the back side of the fairing, around the tab's boss areas, I made a little fillet using baking soda and CA.

My close-up photo shows my fairing near ready for molding. I will make three fairings, so that's why I'm making a mold. In my next posting I'll show my tjhis fairing mold, three new composite fairings. I've noticed these mounting tabs have a tendency to crack, or brake off, so my new fairings will be carbon fiber reinforced. I'll also show how I replaced a missing side void, which can be seen on my preceding side fairing posting.

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Below is my small oil cooler fairing that I will mold. This part makes an excellent example for illustration purposes on how I make a basic mold. Below are 9 easy steps covering how to make a simple one piece mold.

1. Clean and prepare your plug ( that's your part to be molded).Your plug needs to be detailed to a degree that will produce a satisfactory part.

2. Apply at least three separate applications of silicone free past wax. Buff out between each waxing coats.

3. From the back side apply black 3-M electrical tape, or molding clay in the areas you want to protect, or that will be later removed.

4. I hot glued my part to a raised surface. This is to keep my part off my work table. Later the hot glue can be removed with very little effort,

5. Brush on a light coat of releasing agent onto your plug. Again use a silicone free releasing agent. Some prefer not to use a mold release.

6. Thoroughly mix your resin. Don't whip your resin, this will induce air bubbles. Now you may thicken your coating resin with filler.

7. You may wish to add a color pigment into your coating resin. I recommend not black, if you wish to use any carbon in your lay-ups.

8. Gently brush a generous a coat of your top coating resin onto you plug. ( that's the part to be molded).

9. Once your top coat has set 75%, then carefully one at a time drape several light plies of fiberglass cloth onto your plug, and wet out each

plie with a freshly mix batch of resin. Now continue with at least 4 additional plies of 6 oz fiberglass cloth, Be sure to wet out each plie of

fiberglass cloth. Apply you cloth one at a time. NOTE: If you must, you can use polyester laminating resin for your mold, and you may also use

polyester resin for your parts, but not if you are planning to draft your molded parts onto any ABS part.

.

In a few days I'll show my completed mold. My mold will be trimmed. I will also show at at least one freshly laid-up reinforced fiberglass part.

I'll also go over how to prepare any new mold, and how to lay-up your first fiberglass part

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The photo below shows my original fairing that I repaired, and my raw mold. The orange mold was made without using any tooling resin, just laminating epoxy resin, and fiberglass cloth with a pinch of orange pigment added to my resin. My mold was layed-up with two plies of 2 oz cloth, backed up with 4-6 plies of 6 oz cloth, but I did add two additional plies of 6 oz cloth at my tab ends. Keep in mind, the technique I've posted will produce a quality low number of production mold. My faring mold if handled properly will easily make 2 dozen parts. If you are planning on a greater number of parts, then you should coat your plug with a tooling material, followed by a greater number of fiberglass cloth plies.

Examine my rough trim job. I did my trimming with a normal hack saw. I try to avoid using my demeral as much as possible, because I don't like grinding fiberglass, or carbon material. I also like to use an assortment of files in order to achieve a properly trimmed mold. Be sure to always wear a mask, and safety glass when doing any grinding of composite materials. My orange mold is exactly how it looked after it was removed from it's plug. To those who may still wonder how well the CA gluing really works , well- it held up very well under the strain of pulling the mold off it's plug! I used far more force in removing my mold than I would have like to. The mold ended up being wrapped around my plug's edges, this made the mold's extraction more difficult. I also twisted my mold to help release my my mold. Always allow more cure time than normal when you are removing any mold from a plug. The resin must be cured, or you will have a mess!

Note: Epoxy resin isn't as brittle as polyester resin, and it doesn't smell!

My next posting will cover laying-up a fiberglass faring. You'll be amazed as to how well a hand layed-up part can be!.

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Early this morning I layed-up one composite oil cooler faring, and I also made two small front light faring tab molds. If all goes well, I plan to post all these results within a day or two. I'm under a tight schedule, nevertheless less I need to mail my new oil cooler fairing to a fellow who's in Washington, thus far I'm on schedule. The fairing was layed-up with several light plies of fiberglass, and the plies were applied in bias to one another, the tabs also received two addtion plies of cloth, plus the tabs got reinforced with carbon. The amount of resin mixed for everything was less 60 grams, and I still had a small amount of resin left even after laying up my two molds, and my fairing. Check back to see the results

I have very little time to make this posting, but I wanted to illustrate my new composite fairing. Basically the fairing is done. However it does need to be drilled for the tab fasteners, sanded with 400 wet paper, and apply paint as desired. I mentioned I'm under the gun, otherwise I'd also show my two completed small positioning tab molds. These molds make tabs for my light fairing. One of my molds actually makes a replacement oil cooler location tab, One cooler tab got broken off, so while I was laying-up my oil cooler fairing, I decided to make two tab molds. I'll show those molds in one of my upcoming postings.

Note: The new fairing is lighter, and stronger than our original ABS fairing. Making your first pat from any mold sometimes requires a little learning curve, before you are able to make that perfect part, so don't be surprised if you find it necessary to do some minor rework before you can begin painting.

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Helpful Hints:

1 Suggested vender who carries a proven product line. http://www.cstsales.com/products.html

2 Have a proper means to weigh your material when dealing with weights Note: CST sells calibrated dispensing pumps

3 Gather material product information, and always try working with unknowns by doing a test sample

4 Cover your work area up with some form of a removable protective table top cover, such as news paper, or cardboard for easy clean-up.

5 Keep work area clean, and certainly your repair items

6 Wear appropriate protective gear such as gloves, masks, and eye protection as required

7 Work in ventilated areas, and adhere to recommended working temperatures, and properly store your materials

8 When making repairs, doing molding, or making a part remember often there can be a learning curve

9 It's always best when possible is first try a small and simple repair, or glassing, before tackling a major job

10 Normally if something doesn't come out to your satisfaction, then take a little extra time, and make your adjustments

If you have questions, feel free to contact me, and send me photos of what you are trying to repair. I'll certainly try to answer your questions..

Due to the holidays, and my other obligations, I've not been able to doing any addtional posting until now. My current plan is to complete all my fairing repair work on my salvaged project, get the bike safety inspected, then have my final CHP inspection, so I my salvaged bike can be fully registered for highway usage. I'll assemble my bike to make in a complete road worry, but it will not be a finished looking bike. Once the bike has been register, I'll remove the body parts, properly prime all my ABS parts, and paint my VFR. Are there other VFR owners who might be interested in working with me on fiberglass replacement body parts for 4th generation bikes? Parts I'm considering will be a complete tail assembly replacement as a full unit, and complete front upper faring section. My thoughts would be something like the illustration below. The tail section would have a removable seat cover, new LED tail light, and LED turn signals. Tail unit would be drilled reinforced as necessary where the known stress areas are. The LED tail section was shown earlier in my posting. The front fairing section to accept stock lights, and it's instrument panel, fairing drilled for installation, and it will have options of accepting your original lower fairings. The mirrors and turn signals will be upgraded units having LED lights in the turn signals, not in the fairings. The upper frontal fairings with be stylized by reshaping the turn signal blistered areas, the removed blisters should enhance it's fairing appearance. The replacement mirrors will be a bolt on item, the wiring will be a quick simple change.

Note: The cost of replacing mirrors, turn signals can easily offset by selling, your original turn signals, tail lights and mirrors.

Basically there shouldn't be any out of pocket expense with these new upgrades!

In my earlier posting I illustrated the tail light unit.

Below is a conceptional representation of epoxy a fiberglass tail and upper frontal fairing..

Are there any comments on my possible upgrades?

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Yesterday I did my first major fairing check, in doing so the garage door went wacky, so there will be some lost time to correct that issue. I quickly attached nearly allmy fairings to get an overall look as to how my fairing parts are fitting, and I noted those areas that are in need of addtional work. I now have my electrical sytem working, but I still have a few areas where the fairings are in need of further attention. I attached two photos. One shows a general overall fairing fit check, and the second photo shows a common broken mounting tab. My next posting will cover two ways one can correct that problem.

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Get this-- I'm actually using polyester Resin!!

OUCH I don't be leave I'm actually admitting to using polyester resin.

I thought I would see about using polyester resin on my current repair work. I tested the resin to see if I would like it. Some of the proprieties I liked, but there are some I dislike. but like everything there's a trade -off from one product to another.The Product I used was 3M a polyester resin sold by Home Depot. I'm using the resin for a possible throw away one time mold, so that's the main reason why I using it, and I'll have a mold in 3 hours, that I can used the same day, not so with most epoxy laminating resins. I won't be using polyester resin to make my actual glass part. NOTE: New material it's best to make a test sample to see if you like your new material?

What I liked:

Its far less expensive, and most local hardware stores do carry polyester laminating resin.

Much easier to locate.

It's often 25% less expensive than a good epoxy laminating resin.

It sets-up in about 2 hours.

Easy to use ratio to use. One oz. of resin to 10 drops of hardener. I actually used 9 drops per oz.

What I don't like:

I don't like the stinky smell!

I don't like the hardener, you must keep it out of your eyes!!!

I like a 25 minute pot life, and the 3M I used has only a 10-15 minute pot life. I prefer a longer pot life.

During the next few days I'll make a small tiny mold for my fairing's missing tab. I normally would glass a tab directly to my fairing, then trim to fit, but this time I'm making a mold just to illustrate how a simple mold can be made, and how to slip a dirty mold directly to your fairing, then I'll mold an expoy resin tab directly to it's fairing! Next, I'll illustrate the making of my faring tab's mold, fitting my mold to it's faring, and molding my tab directly to my fairing, and I'll be dressing my newly glassed tab as required.

Hey guys, I've been swamped with work, so little has been done on my VFR fairing repairs. As soon as I complete an old Dunstall fuel tank repair, along with my other glass work, I'll then be able to resume my VFR faring repairs. Soon I'll be posting photos of my VFR work. Weather permitting, this Tuesday I'm planning for a beach bike ride, but later in the week I will have some photos posted..

Everyone, please forgive me for not being able to get back to posting more on this project. I've been involved with too many other projects which has taken me away for my VFR fairing repairs. I must complete this project. so I can fully register my bike. I haven't given up on this project. I just have gotten side tracked. I find it very hard to turn down good paying jobs, just so I can work on my own personal projects. I will demonstrate how to make a simple mold for a one off part, and then I'll illustrate how to draft a newly molded part onto an existing fairing. Meanwhile, please feel free to address your comments, or other related questions. I hope my postings have been beneficial to those who have made some of their own fairing repairs?

This is an amazing thread,I am just trying to figure a way to replace the broken tabs on my seat cowl,the ones where the luggage hooks go through to secure it.

some idiot took it off without unscrewing the luggage hooks,and no it wasn't me,it was a bike mechanic with 'supposedly' 25 yrs experience,go figure.

This evening I got a few questions from VFRcracked. He also enclosed a few photos of his rear fairing. It has a few cracks, one upper the seat missing boss mount, and some other minor damage areas. One brake away is under rear seat fairing, near the license plate area. All his damaged areas are common fatigue failures, and all these problem can be repaired!

I replied by saying this:

"I've made similar tail section repairs. His areas aren't difficult repairs. His photo # 2 will require a little more effort, but I will explain how I made similar repairs. Please allow me until tomorrow evening at the very latest to make a proper response." I got a new computer with WIndows 8, which has a new operating system. Right now I'll say I don't like Windows 8!

I'm glad to see someone has posted a few questions. Now lets fix his broken fairing!.

Yesterday I received an E-mail with three supporting photos requesting repair assistance. I’ll address the simplest repair first, and I’ll address the complicated repair last. The repair of the missing boss section will not be nearly as difficult as it may seem. I was told the broken boss occurred while the bike was being service at an authorized Honda shop. I’ll attempt to give a fairly detailed procedure on how I would make these repairs. I was informed Plastic Stick might be used, so I’ll address how I might approach making these repairs, and using Plastic Stick as a reinforcement agent. Several other remembers posted other products, and their repair preferences, and their repairing techniques. The ABS materials Honda used on their VFRs will accept CA, baking soda, quality epoxy laminating resin, and fiberglass.

# 1 Repair to rear right side near tail light area. It's damaged in two places:

1. Thoroughly clean the damage area both on the outside and inside of the faring. A good cleaning is a must.
2. Using a sanding disc and dremel lightly cut into the affected areas ( Do this on both inside and outside your fairing).
3. Clean all areas with alcohol, and allow to dry.
4. Spot drill ends of cracks. This will prevent the crack from possibly propagating if they should try to open up, but in most cases if the repair was done correctly this will happen. This technique works well on windshields
5. Using quality electrical tape, tape your damaged areas back together, pulling everything together, and aligning the cracks as best as possible.
6. From the inside of the fairing CA your lower small crack. Please refer back to where I discussed CA and Baking Soda, and how to glue cracks.
7. The larger upper crack needs to be pulled together near the tail light held tightly in place, glued with CA, but all the way to where the crack was spot drilled.
8. Now from the inside, fill the hole with baking soda, then hit it with a dab of CA.
9. The glue will dry in less than a minute, then repeat the gluing two more times, grind using your dremel from the inside, and apply a light coat of CA.
10. If there are any small voids, fill them with CA, then apply another light application of CA.
11. Basically at this stage, your cracks are repaired, but you must carry on by reinforcing your damaged areas. IF you don’t your cracks will reappear.
12. Remove your plastic electrical tape, carefully sanding block carefully sand with sanding block your affected damage areas, and smooth out. If you’re not going to paint your repairs, then smooth and polish out to your satisfaction, only after you have reinforced your repairs from the back sides.
13. Study the early section showing how my light fiberglass cloth was applied to the repaired areas.
14. The lower smaller crack might be ok with a quarter size patched area.
15. The lager upper crack will need about a 2” strips of fiberglass . Note: Fiberglass must be applied on cleaned and properly prepared surfaces.
16. If you’re going to paint your fairing then you’ll need, you’ll have to fill, sand, and prime before painting.
17. Nearly all these techniques should apply when using Plastic Stick. I understand some modification of these steps will be required when using plastic stick. You should made your small repair first to satisfy your repairing technique before attempting other repairs.
18. Cleaning, sanding , gluing with CA, and using baking soda should take care of repairing your rear fairing cracks.
19. You should you elect to use Plastic Stick, study and perform a complete pretest , and do some form of test on your test part.

I'll be posting the other two needed repairs separately.

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[image: post-22834-0-28181000-1367523034.jpg][image: post-22834-0-78916800-1367523096.jpg][image: post-22834-0-79576300-1367523122.jpg]# 2 Repair void area under AFT tail section:

# 2 Repair void area under AFT tail section:

Note:

My white first fairing photo shows where a void had a piece of tape, then fiberglassed in the inside.

My second white photo where there is a missing area, has a void, and needs similar needs repairs.

that same photo shows where a hole had tape, then was filled a glassed in the inside now it's near ready for primer.

1. Actually is repair is common repair. This repair can be a nasty repair, but I found using my method you’ll get a quality repair that will last.
2. I’ve attached two photos for #2 repair. The first photo is the unit that’s in need of repair. The second photo is a repair I made on a tail section having nearly the same type of problem.
3. Clean as required, prepare as required, use tape, on the outside of the fairing, then from the inside I mixed epoxy resin, applied a fairly generous amount of resin, then I dabbed a few plies of fiberglass.
4. Study my photos showing the outside repaired, with tape removed, and the repaired area from the inside. Note: The generous amount of fiberglass used to make this repair. This repair nicely blends into all the missing void areas.
5. Next I will trim the unwanted fiberglass, and final dress the repaired area.
6. Once step #5 has been completed, it’s then ready for paint preparation.

#3Making a replacement fibrerglass section, and repair a missing boss mounting section:

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1. Initially this missing boss mounting tab might suggest a major problem, but it’s not! The missing section is near the lower inside of the photo,
2. Clean as required, prepare as required, use tape, on the top your existing mounting boss , then from the top of the tape surface apply a generous amount of resin, then dab a few plies of fiberglass. On top of the your resin.
3. I have a photo showing me repairing a broken boss. I applied 2 plies of fiberglass, after I repaired and CA glued my broken boss back to the fairing. I performed a fit check to insure everything aligned correctly before I did any fiberglassing.
4. Back to repairing our red fairing. Once your fiberglass piece has cured, remove your new piece with a razor blade, by working the razor under the tape of your fiberglass part and lift of your fiberglass piece off the fairing. Remove the tape from your fiberglass part.
5. Carefully clean, sand your part. This new fiberglass piece now will become your mounting boss. Your fiberglass piece needs to be flipped over, because it’s mirror image of your missing mounting boss. Align your glass piece over on top of your missing mounting boss area.
6. Install your fairing back onto your bike. Bolt your faring back in place, insure the rest your fairing is properly located. Now fit check, adjust your newly made thin fiberglass mounting boss on top of your fairing.
7. Double check everything, clean as required, Now is the time to apply a thin coat of CA on your mirror image mounting boss. You Ca glue your fiberglass mounting boss on top of the fairing where you were missing your mounting boss. Your new piece has become your new mounting boss. .
8. Check your work, remove fairing, flip the fairing over, Clean the underside of your mounting boss. Mix a slurry of resin, and fill in the void bottom area of your newly attached boss. Once the resin has set, trim and grind as required
9. Now drill small holes through the top of your fiberglass mounting tab. You want to drill into your original fairing area, where you CA glued you new mounting boss to it’s fairing. Repeat the CA gluing procedure, and fill holes with baking soda and CA as required.
10. This final step is very important. You want to apply 3- 6 plies of fiberglass with resin covering the top our your newly attached fiberglass mounting boss. This must be done to give you the necessary mounting strength.
11. Carefully drill your large mounting boss hole. You want to final finish your new mounting boss. Having the additional thickness of material on top of the faring, will not affect the seat, or your fairing installation.

The effort to post these three fairing repairs, will be greater than the effort to make the repairs.

Once you made your repairs please get back to me, I'd like to know your repairs went?

I do hope I was of some help?

NOTE: 5/11/2013 Update

The other day I was having a discussion with a resin chemist. He concurred the materials, and the methods I've suggested do work with ABS fairings. This chemist largely works in the automotive sector, who works with ABS, and with both epoxy and polyester materials. He mentioned several reasons why polyester resins don't work very well with ABS types of repairs. Two reasons he stated, were polyester resins have a higher shrink value than epoxy laminating resins, and they cure too rapidly which affects the bonding to ABS materials. There were other factors mentioned. I wanted to update this posting. I also mentioned this update in my earlier postings on how I make ABS repairs.

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Tonight I picked up a set of Suzuki GSX 750 fairings. The fairings are composite, not ABS. The repair technique wil be performed much like ABS units.This bike is a track bike. As we might guess, track bikes get beat-up from time to time, these fairings are constantly becoming damaged. It always best to repair the breaks, cracks, and other damaged areas as soon as possible. I'll illustrate those repairs. All of these repairs will be reinforced, otherwise you'll surely have a fairing failure. The fairings will be removed, repaired, and fiberglassed reinforced from the inside with fiberglass. All of my repairs will follow my previous described repair techniques. The bike illustrated is my customer's back-up bike. Last month I've repaired his primary bike, which really was messed up, now he has returned wanting his back-up bike fully repaired. The damage is on both sides of the fairings, and there are bad breaks that can't be seen in my two photos, but during my repairs I'll post photos, and describe my repair work that's being done. There are cracks, breaks, scratches, and once all the fairings have been repaired, they will be repainted.

I gave my customer an estimate of 2.5 weeks. It won't require a continues 2 weeks of work, but I need ample time for repairs, allow ample time for curing, and plus I have tons of other work to get done. These fairings aren't seriously damaged. They just need a good going over, because of fatigue wear, cracks, broken mounting areas, and enlarged mounting holes.

Big Hint For Everyone:

I'm working on repairing the mentioned above fairing set, but I wanted to take the time to pass on a wonderful hint. I suggest to use an empty eye dropper to store your baking soda. It keeps it free of moisture, and it's fantastic as a soda applicator for all those tight, and difficult to reach areas. Your applicator must be clean free of all foreign material, including moisture! Everyone knows how to use a drop applicator, so I will only address how to clean a used drop applicator.

Take your applicator apart, removing the rubber blub form the top of the applicator.

Use a sanding block grid the eye applicator end down at a slight angle, and open the end up to allow the baking soda to be discharged once your applicator bulb has been squeezed.

Wash everything good, risen well, dry with a hair drier,

Load clean lose baking soda into the top of your applicator, put squeeze bulb back on, squeeze bulb to test the discharging of your soda.

Note: If soda gets clogged, most likely it's because you have large lumps of soda in you tube, or moisture is in your tube.

I suggest with a pin, unplug it's charging end, and remove soda, Fill again use a Q-Tip push your new soda down into the end of tube,

but don't pack tight , leave lose and get your bulb to discharge your soda. It may take several attempts, but it will work!

Your applicator is working correctly, if you can gently tap the tip of you applicator, and your soda comes out.

Test the applicator several times by squeezing the bulb, and once working fill your application tube to about 80% full.

Your bottle must be 100% dry, then screw your applicator back to it's jar, and test with the applicator while it's installed into your jar.

NOTE: The tip of my applicator. It has a slight angle. This helps to apply your soda.

You now have a clean applicator, clean jar, moisture free system, your applicator is filled, ready to be used, be sure to keep your applicator secured to it's jar at all times, until you're ready to apply your baking soda. Remember CA and baking soda works well to correct minor voids, but it becomes tough to sand, it requires to be grounded with a Dremel. Don't be afraid to apply several light applications of baking soda and C A when correcting your voids.

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[image: post-22834-0-04514400-1370451878.jpg]I applied baking soda in tight areas with an eye drop applicator, and in areas when the fiberglass plies had become separated. The CA glue and baking soda makes a quick and outstanding repair. First I cleaned and sanded the areas in need of repair, placed tape along the cracks, and opened voids. The tape was applied on the outside of the fairing. The CA glue was applied from the inside of the fairing. There were a few areas where the previous fiberglass was had been worn thin, or in some areas the fiberglass had been completely worn away. After the CA and baking soda had been applied from the inside, I then removed the tape, applied several applications of CA and baking soda on the front of the damaged areas. I used a file to do an initial dressing on my repaired areas, next sand paper, and then I applied three piles of medium weight of fiberglass using laminating resin. Later I will prep the surface area for body filler, sanding and prime as required.

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I just recently posted some repairs on a front left fairing. It was near ready for an initial application of body filler, sanding, and premiering. My next photos show the fairing filled and near ready for premiering.

Note:

Look at my old red bondo areas. Track bikes often require fairing repairs! I applied CA glue all around the edges of the old original bondo areas. The CA will insure a better bond to help hold the old original body fillers, next sand and apply your new body filler. I applied only enough filler to complete my sanding in the repaired areas. The painter gave me instructions as to how he wants my body work to be completed, since the painter will sand and do his own paint preparations.

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I've not done any bike work for sometime, since I have been raveling for over 5 weeks. This repair procedure is on a Triumph front fairing. I use the same procedure for most ABS repair work.

I wired my two broken pieces to the fairing to prevent from losing the two broken pieces.

Wash fairing with soap, risen, dry, and sand the back side of the broken areas.

You’ll need to at least sand an area of six inches total. Three inches in both directions beyond the brakes.

The sanding is necessary for fiber glassing preparation.

You’ll sand the back side of the broken pieces, so you can attached fiberglass cloth, once the gluing of the parts has been completed.

CA glue your two broken parts back together, be sure to tape broken pieces back correctly.

Carefully sand and repeat the gluing procedure several times.

Inspect glue joints, lightly test the glue joints.

Later I’ll fiberglass as required.

Tape can be removed once the fiberglass resin has fully cured.

NOTE: Two photos show my work in progress.

First photo shows broken pieces held with tape.

The tape holds the pieces in place while gluing.

Second photo shows broken pieces glued back, near ready for fiberglass reinforcing.

Later I’ll add fiberglass and resin. This is necessary to give the needed strength to your repairs.

Within a few days, I’ll complete, and post the fiberglass steps.

I've nearly finished the basic repair work on the Triumph front fairing.

I've attached three photos:

The first photo shows the fiberglass after I applied several light plies of fiberglass.

The second photo shows the back side after the fiberglass had been trimmed, sanded, and it's 75% sanded down.

The third photo shows the front side , and has been lightly sanded. Now the fairing is near ready for initial primering.

Note: Feather your repaired fiberglass, so the windscreen can be attached without having a bulging gap, due to the

added fiberglass cloth. Not shown, but you may want to spray a light coat of clear satin on the inside repair areas

where the repairs were made. I sometimes do this to give a natural appearance. often the visual appearance looks so

natural it makes your repair areas nearly invisible. Once your fairing has been painted, and attached you're good to go!

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I'll illustrate how to make a missing tab, and how to install your newly fabricated tab to a rear seat cowl:

Unfortunately our rear seat tabs too often become broken off.

First photo shows a new tab being molded. This can be done from another rear cowl, or from cowling mold.

Second photo shows a tab that has been removed from it's mold, and is about to be trimmed, and test fit to the cowl, and bike,

Third photo shows new tab near ready to be attached to the seat cowl.

Later I'll show my new tab completely finished, and the cowl installed back onto my bike.

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I'm thinking about strengthen my 3th gen's fairs with structurized fiberglass on the inner side. On the bolt connections priorized, but on my old fairings I can see which edges used to crack due to vibrations.

What quantity of Plastic Welder would you suggest for this work? I can have Devcon Plastic Welder here in Hungary is 25ml quantity, I think it's quite small. Any other like 2component epoxi could you suggest?

It's common for ABS components to develop fatigue cracks, structural wear, and chipping. Realize your body parts are 20 years old, so you expect some required maintenance . May I request you post a few photos of those areas that are in need of repairs? I like to suggest review posting # 53, my last photo shows a fiberglass inner repair. CA was first applied to mend a crack, and after my CA had cured, the area was sanded, and three light piles of fiberglass cloth was added using a two part epoxy laminating resin. The CA fixed the cracks, the fiberglassing gave additional strength. Last week I double checked my repair work, I again verified my earlier repairs were holding up. Right off hand, you may also want to revisit posting # 49, # 43, # 14, and # 11 those posting might be of help.

If you supply us with some photos, then that will allow everyone to understand your problem, and then better advise can be given. Meanwhile, I'll think what materials might be available in your local area.

Thanks for your questions!

Seat Cowl Tab Finished And Installed:

The other day my broken seat cowl tab got fabricated, and was test fit to both my seat cowl, and to my rear seat fairing..

The tab was sanded, and CA to the inside of the seat cowl.

Note: Sand the areas where the CA is to be applied.

Take care not to get any glue on any surfaces that you don't want your CA, especially to any finished area on your cowl!!

Once your CA has dried, double check your gluing, and CA again as required.

Clean areas, then paint tab using red finger nail polish.

Polish areas, and wax.

Last photo shows my cowl installed without my two side mounting bolts.

Note: I suggest cleaning the areas with alcohol where my two side mountings bolts go, then apply a light coat of clean silicone onto the

two side mounting bolts. This helps keep the fasteners from backing out. My photo shows the side mounting bolt not installed at the time

of my photo. My replacement broken tab is now stronger than my original tab, and should that tab become broken, because of improper

installation new tab can be made, and installed again. This same process can be used to replace your two front mounting tabs, and to

similar type of tabs.

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Resin

It's common for ABS components to develop fatigue cracks, structural wear, and chipping. Realize your body parts are 20 years old, so you expect some required maintenance . May I request you post a few photos of those areas that are in need of repairs? I like to suggest review posting # 53, my last photo shows a fiberglass inner repair. CA was first applied to mend a crack, and after my CA had cured, the area was sanded, and three light piles of fiberglass cloth was added using a two part epoxy laminating resin. The CA fixed the cracks, the fiberglassing gave additional strength. Last week I double checked my repair work, I again verified my earlier repairs were holding up. Right off hand, you may also want to revisit posting # 49, # 43, # 14, and # 11 those posting might be of help.

If you supply us with some photos, then that will allow everyone to understand your problem, and then better advise can be given. Meanwhile, I'll think what materials might be available in your local area.

Thanks for your questions!

I've found an epoxy which can be purchased here in Hungary. What do you think about using this?

http://www.imc.cas.cz/sympo/MoDeSt2012/pdf/OC_025-Szolnoki.pdf

For me trying a new laminating epoxy resin is a love and hate thing! I have used many different resins. Buying an untested resin is something like buying any new untested paint. My postings has been things I've found that worked for me, so please spend a little time gathering information on any resin you're are about to buy.

Things You Want To Consider:

Is the resin available at a price in quantity you want?

Are the laminating and hardener ratios something you can easily work with?

Most mixing ratios are spelled out in weight, not by volume, if so that means you'll need a gram scale to weigh your product.

Some companies sell resin kits. Sometimes they sell dispensing ratio pumps that go with their resins and hardener sets.

Note: Use a small inexpensive $10.00- $ 20.00 digital scale should you weigh your material.

All my posted repair work I initially would mix about 28 grams of material, and if it weren't enough then I'd simply mix another batch of material.

I like my material to have between 15-28 minutes of working time, and cure time 18-24 hours.

Using New Material:

Notice epoxy using has longer cure time than polyester resin, and your shrinkage rate is also less. That's a main reason I use epoxy resin.

A pint or less of resin should be sufficient to repair a complete set of fairings, unless you are making molds, and fiberglass parts.

You want your ambient temperature be around 70-79 degrees F. Epoxy resin doesn't smell like polyester resin.

I mix my resin in 3 oz, unwaxed bathroom drinking cups.

Gather all available product information, study your material--- then do a pretest!!

Mix the resin, wet your fiberglass cloth out possibly on old news paper.

After you wet your cloth out, scrap the excess off with an old credit card.

Time and record your approximately working time, pot life, ( How long your material is workable while it's in your mixing cup).

Let the material set, wait for it to cure. Note your curing time.

When fully cured, test your fiberglass cloth.

If your material test result appears satisfactory, then make a simple test repair on your easiest repair.

Inspect your first repair, and if your repair is satisfactory then proceed to your next repair.

Note: Often your CA gluing puts back the pieces, or seems a crack, but it's the fiberglass that gives you the required strength.

Unlike plastic welding, CA and fiberglassing unusually doesn't make a big mess on your part's exterior, if it's done correctly.

Proof of my statement please revisit my past posting.

If would be helpful if you were to send me photos, so we can have a better understand on your project. I tired to respond to the best of my abilities with the information you have provided me. I welcome your comments. Thanks for your interest.

I recently began making a repair on a left front fairing in an area where most think a repair can't be made! I was making a major repair on an another exact fairing, then I remembered I have another part that's the same, that's in need of repair, but it's missing a section, so I made a, "Dirty Mold" to replace my missing section. A dirty mold will allow me to quickly duplicate a section I had missing on my second fairing.

NOTE: Dirty Mold is a quickly made mold often used for making an one off part, so I don't spend much time

in making any one off mold.

Fitting of the mold to the part is critical, but my detailing of mold can be rough, since I'll later detail the

the final molded part to my fairing.

Photo 1 Shows fairing having a missing section.

Photo 2 Shows mold that will make my missing section.

Photo 3.Shows mold clamped to the front side of my fairing.

Photo 4.Shows mold clamped to the back side of my fairing.

Later I'll make another posting covering the finishing of the molded part to my fairing. You will want to view my next posting showing how my repair worked out.

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Today I decided to get into the glassing of the fairing's air vent area. I didn't allow several days to laps before I did my glassing. The glassing only took 15-20 minutes. I've spent more time doing my photo work, and writing than doing the actual glassing! I'll allow the resin to fully cure before I remove the mold, but mean while you'll have an opportunity to see how my glassing was done. I've discussed glassing earlier, so I'll not addressed my glassing other than once the mold is removed, I'll inspect my newly glassed section, and I'll talk about blending in the section, fitting the side fairing to the upper front fairing, and possibly reinforcing my newly glassed section.

NOTE: I used ordinary rubber cement to tack on my partial mold, along with small mini clamps help hold the mold

in place while I was doing my molding. I also use tape to help prevent from getting resin on my fastener

areas. To help release the mold glued mold from my fairing, I'll slide a thin expired credit card between the

mold, and the fairing, and then remove the old rubber cement. I noticed after I had made my posting I

developed a small air void which can be seen in one of my photos. Since the resin was fresh, I was able to

work out the air void.

I personally feel making a glassed section for an ABS part, fitting a large void with epoxy resin, and fiberglass is an easier repair to make with fiberglass than having to mold one from plastic, and then have having to attach your newly molded part to an ABS fairing. My two photos show both front and back side views. I only roughly trimmed the excess glass, and it will remain that way until the resin has fully cured. You must allowed the resin to fully cure before very attempting to separate your mold, otherwise often your mold has more of a tendency to stick to it's fiberglass part.

NOTE: Earlier in my posting I made this repair without a mold, using a thin piece of plastic as a partial mold, but

that meant still had to mold it's upper pat of the air vent, so having another exact fairing gave

me a simpler solution, so I removed my previous fiberglass work, and opted to mold a new complete upper

air vent section.

I'm missing a left section around my speedo cluster. A kind member is helping me out by providing me a

used one that he's not using. I'll mold a small section, and I'll attempt to draft it on, while it's still attached to

my bike.

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the one thing your not doing... drilling holes in the lower main area..

i drill holes and tape them from the outside.. then add some epoxy. and fabric.. the holes act as extra anchors

how ever if i was in your shoes.. with the work you do.. just make the whole side.. :beer:

I sometimes will drill holes to help secure things in place, but the two critical areas up along the top off the fairing have little to no spots to anchor my molded add on. The area where my new vents go have a large area, so I opted to not drill any anchor points. Drilling anchor holes is not a bad idea. Speaking along the line of good ideas, It's a good idea to spot drill the ends of cracks, this helps from having a reoccurring crack.

I just purchased a wonderful little electric 3" high speed cut-off tool from Harbor Freight! I got it on scale. I must warn you it's a potentially dangerous tool, so be careful, wear safety glasses, a mask, and it will cut flesh and bones like butter! If you're going to be cutting ABS, or fiberglass you might want to purchase a package of five 3" cutting discs @ $5.00. In the long run it will prolong the life of my Dremel, because I'll use this tool for cutting flashing off, instead of my Dremel. this works better for cutting glass and plastic than my Dremel, but in tight areas, you'll still need your Dremel.

NOTE: After using it, brush it off, or vacuum the dust off the tool, never used compressed air. It blows to dust into your tool!

Cut-off Tool:

Chicago Electric 3" Electric High Speed Cut-Off Tool # 68523 now on sale for $20.00

Metal 60 Grit Aluminum Oxide Wheel package of five $5.00.

I also attached a finished photo of a fender. The flashing was quickly removed with the Cut-Off Tool, and dressed using a Dremel. The Cut-Off tool also works good on ABS! The Dremel can do the job, but the Dremel really has to be over worked!

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Earlier I began making a repair on a left front fairing. That fairing repair is now nearly complete. I trimmed and dressed the slotted area to allow a silver grill to be installed. I purposely didn't trim my mold, because I was interested in being able to fit my grill into the fairing's vented area, and not my grill into my mold. If you recall when your dentist makes a tooth repair? Your dentist normally has to make a final adjustment on his repair work. I adjusted my repair in in a similar way. I'm not implying I have the same skills as a dentist, but their is a similar adjustment procedure that's being done. My, "Dirty Mold" allowed me to make a rough replacement section, then I fitted my grill, and later I'll do all my necessary final fairing work, prior to it being painted. I opted to make a simpler faring repair, and not a new fairing mold due to time, and expense.

Note: I used my new cut-off tool to rough out the slotted areas. Next I used tape marking the cut-outs on the

outside, then I made my slot cuts from the inside. I was able to see my tape lines through the back side,

because my epoxy repairs were transparent. I did a complete fit check to insure my fairing attaches to the all

the other fairing parts, and I did perform a simple stress test to insure my repair will hold-up. Once the fairing is

painted you'll never be able tell a repair section was added. I made this posting prior to the Thanks Giving

Holiday's, in case some one needed this information prior to the holidays.

Happy Thanks Giving Everyone!

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Resin, Thanks for all the posts on this thread. I feel like an idiot for having replaced my front fairing because of a fairly simple crack. I even threw away the cracked fairing. :pissed:

Gusty,

People do things like that all the time! I went to a football game once, only to return home to find out my wife sold our Datsun 510 station wagon at her garage sale, because it had a bad head. She got $75.00 for the wagon. I could have spent $100.00 on parts resurface the head, and had it running in less than 10 hours! That happened years ago, but she's still paying for it whenever I drag another bike home!!!

Not to make you feel worse, but I'd would have bought your parts! Read my next postings. I even repaired a mirror!

Please contact me for your old part! I buy old body parts. How do you think I make my old partial molds? Granted you'll have package them, and ship them, but people recycle cans, bottles, and news paper, so please contact me for old 3-4 gen body parts. I can help others by making good affordable repaired body parts! I use old body parts to make partial molds this helps to keep older bikes on the road.

Guys-- Please keep me in mind before you toss out your body parts!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I'm finishing up a fairing set for a Ninja. The last ting I'm doing is fixing three inner mounting tabs. I fix tabs last, because they're fragile, and I sometime brake them, or crack them, because too often they have already been over stress due to age.

First photo:

Shows the inside of a front side fairing, and the basic items used to repair broken or missing tabs.

Use 3 oz, bathroom unwaxed drinking cups for your resin, cheap throw away acid brushes fro the hardware store, scissors from the grocery store @ $2.00 a set, clips- used for small clamps from your stationary stores, and rubbing alcohol from your drug store, wax paper, and clear tape. Resin doesn't stick to most clear plastic tape.

Seond photo for making new tabs:

I cut three pieces of flat plastic that is to reflect the tabs to be made. Fit and t rim as necessary.

Cut one strip of packaging tape, then fit your tabs to the tape. Make sure your don't put them on backwards.

Tape a piece of scotch tape on the front side of plastic tabs.

Note: Your resin won't stick to the tape after it has dried!

Cut 4-6 small pieces of 3-6 oz fiberglass cloth, and wet them the cloth out on your plastic tabs, which are your molds.

Third photo attaching wet out glass mounting tabs:

After the cloth has bee wet out, cut the tabs away from the large strip of tape, and cut them with your new scissors.

Place two strips of wax paper on your tab, one on the very back where the clamp will go, and one in front o your stub where the tabs was, then clamp in place, but be sure to add more laminating resin when your attaching your tab your old plastic stub. once 75% cured remove your clamps, and wax paper, then allow your new glass mounting tabs to cure, then trim. and finish as necessary.

Fourth Photo:

Shows three mounting tabs, after the clamps were removed, wafting to be trimmed, and drilled.

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Repairing a large hole:

I'm not sure how the damaged occur, but the hole must be fixed, so I've decided to make a fiberglass repair. It could be repaired with a formed piece of metal, riveted as a patched section, and then painted since it's on the back side, but since I'm repairing a set of BMW bags, I opted to make a quick dirty mold, then glass in the hole. The mold took 15 minutes to lay-up, and less than10 minutes to trim, and to fit over the hole. The neat thing is, it will have the same textured appearance as the rest of the back side of the bag once all the repair work has been completed. I'm not too sure how well something like Plastic-Fix would work for this type of a repair.

Clean your work areas, prep for molding later, then fit your mold over the hole, and glassed from the inside of the saddle bag. Later I'll post the repairing.

A few weeks ago I made a similar repair on a front fairing, by molding a patch section from a metal mold. I formed a thin piece of metal, put one plié of thin packing tape as a mold release on the side where my fiberglassing was going to be applied, hot glued my temporary metal mold in place , then made my fiberglass repairs from the inside. Removed the temporary mold, fill and sanded as required. Both the fairing's upper ends where the windscreens attached were badly broken, and both mirror areas had to be completed rebuilt, along with some bad road rash. The front fairing was delivered as repaired, but in need of final sanding, primering, and painting.

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The two attached photos show my dirty fiberglass mold attached to the back side of the saddle bag, and my fiberglass patch work.

The mold was simple to make, it took very little time to make, and prior to the mold being attached, I applied a generous amount of resin to the outside of the hole to make sure my patch got a good bound, once my mold was attached I removed off any excess resin beyond the mold.

Note: The tan colored spot showing on my mold will not have any impact on the fiberglass patching.

The second photo shows 6-8 plies of medium weight fiberglass cloth. Approximately 24 hours later I'll remove the mold, trim the excess fiberglass off from the inside, and dress my patch as required.

Due to the holiday period I may not complete my patch repair for a few days.

Please allow me to say I wish everyone a Happy Holiday Period!

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I've been working on too many different projects at the same time, which didn't allow me to complete the final detailing of my patch work done on inside of the saddle bag, but I will post that photos in a day or so. The below photo shows my fiberglass patch. The patch was, slightly filled, and primed, then painted. The patch is located in the lower upper right hand corner. The unusual white spotting is a result of my poor photo. I've attached a photo showing what the inside of the bag looks like after the final repair. In most cases one primary concern is the structural longevity, and how the finishes repairs look like, and in most cases, were not overly concerned what the repairs may look like on the inside, but the saddle bag we want the repair to be presentable on both the outside, and on the inside. The saddle bag has a removable protective liner, and total cost was a factor, so I was ask to not to be overly concerned with the final painting of the bag.

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If you think fiberglass is good for that, go look up a product called Plio Grip by Valvoline. That saddlebag repair could have been done in half the time with a longer lasting result. Don't take my word for it, go check it out for yourself.

Thanks for your suggestion on using pliogrip is an alternative to epoxy resin. The labor required to use pliogrip, and the resin I use would be similar. However the curing time for pliogrip is faster. They both require final finishing. I also apply my fiberglass in a similar fashion as illustrated in the pliogrip video. http://wn.com/pliogrip_by_Valvoline

I urge you try the Plio Grip before completing your comparison. Specifically for the repairs you have illustrated in this thread, it is superior by far.

Less health risks

Easier to use - no scales or other measuring required. Just pump & mix, apply

Faster cure time

Better adhesion

(sometimes) less prep

Retains flexibility

Can be reinforced with fiberglass sheetrock mesh tape

Range of available cure time (1/3/5/10/15min versions) allows for a greater variety of applications

Can be used as a filler in some cases

Sands to a better featheredge

Does not melt when rough shaping with pneumatic tools and abrasive pads

For small repairs, sealer can be applied directly, f-glass requries primer

PlastiFix is great for small, precise repairs and fixing cracks. The Plio Grip is a better overall repair material.

Repairing damaged body parts does change the appearance and value of your bike. I've attached several photos of an early Ninja that received extensive body damage. My photos illustrates what can be done to prolong the life of most older bikes. The bike had only 26,000 miles, so with some effort, the bike came back to it's true form. All this work was done on a very tight budget. I understand this is a Honda VFR form, but the repair procedures are the same. at the same time I'm rebuilding a 95 VFR, and it too became damaged much like Ninja.

I've found the majority of the ABS material used in our early VFR fairings takes to resin rather nicely, it works for moldings missing sections, Those body parts often found on dirt bikes, and various other types of bikes may have more pliable plastic parts may require other bonding material. When in question, perform a material test to determine the suitability of your material.

http://s775.photobucket.com/user/vfoam/slideshow/Ninja%20Work

The 1st photo shows a front fairing. The windscreen had to be replaced, the turn signals were repaired, and there where were missing sections, the mirror mounting areas was badly broken, required reinforcing/ fairing sustained a case of road rash.

The 5th photo shows the rear two AFT fairings.

The 8th photos a sever crack on one of the AFT fairings, which rebuilt, and reinforced.

The 9th photo shows front right side fairing, road rash broken, missing sections, and needed reinforcement.

The 10th photo shows front right side fairing, missing section, near the mirror area, and where the windscreen terminates.

The 11 & 12th photo shows the speedo cluster, it too was repaired, including the circuit board.

The 14th photo shows repaired mirror, it was messed up/ an insurance repair would have replaced mirror.

The 16-20th shows repaired areas, painted flat black, the passenger grab bar's road rash was filled with JB-Weld.

The last photo shows the completed repairs, including a welded rear brake mount, and it too was repainted.

I hope my fairings postings have illustrated that faring's can be repaired. I delivered the Ninja parts to a friend, and he was able to paint his bike on his apartment balcony. As you can see the Ninja looks good for an older bike, and the bike was repaired at and affordable cost.

Sebspeed is exactly right , Plio Grip is a far better choice for that application.

This thread was generated to encourage VFR owners to make their own ABS body repairs. I covered ways on how Ive done some basic ABS repairs. Like most things, there are many available plastic products. I didnt intended to make comparison test between one product, or method over another. I merely demonstrated, and showed my methods, and suggested ways on how I perform the majority of my ABS repairs. The methods and materials I've demonstrated work for me. Its important to have planning, preparation, and understanding on how to apply your tested material correctly. There have been comments made expressing preference of certain products. I typically try not to endorse a specific product line over another. I do use SEM Products. They have a complete product line of compactable materials ranging from flexible primer, paint, and they have products for both thermoplastics and thermoset plastics. I hope viewers feel more comfortable when they begin making ABS body repairs.

SEM Products

E-mail Question: www.SEM.WS

Technical Support:1800-831-1122

Resin, great job on your post. I think it is informative and well prepared. My comment was only meant to help confirm what I have found to help based on my experience as well, thanks for the effort and hard work you have put into this.

When I bought my '01, the body panels anf front cowl had a few cracks here and there but I knew that somewhere on the forum someone would have a thread like this one where I could learn how to repair them. Thanks for posting Resin, I for sure will be doing repairs rather than purchasing new fairings.

Cheers!

Hi Duc2V4--

Take your time, and they will come out great!

fix your smallest crack as a test unit/ then do all the other cracks afterwards.

Be sure to clean everything, prep, and clean again when repairing your cracks.

Tape your cracks on the outside, as I suggested/ make repairs on the inside.

CA cracks/ spot drill ends of cracks/ apply baking soda/ then CA spot drilled holes/ watch the CA smoke off!

Sand the baking soda area, CA the glued area once again,/ sand clean/ prepare for glassing/ glass as suggested.

If you have any further questions/ Send me a note!

Repairing a thin plastic Instrument cover using two similar parts to make one good part:

Note: This probably will be my last posting on this topic

My black outer instrument cover was broken, and I was missing a large section around my odometer reset knob. Fortunately I was able to locate a used cover, but it too had been damaged. I had a broken screw standoff. My used part was cracked, and it previously had been repaired with JB Wield, but the repair wasnt holding . Unfortunately my used replacement cover had a missing area where one of the attached screws stand offs was. I illustrated this repair, because my used replacement cover had been repaired, but it needed fixing. Often material thats thick like JB Wield, may not work very well when trying to fix thin cracks, or open areas, because the repair agent doesnt get glued between the actual fractured areas, Yes the material gets applied, but it gets globed onto the outside, not into the fracture areas. The instrument cover is very thin plastic much like plastic model kits, so a thin set gluing agent often can do a better bonding. Once the repair has been made, then you apply a little additional material around the broken area, as I did. I made a small fillets of baking soda, then I hit it with CA.

First I cleaned my used purchased cover, with a Dermel, removed the old JB Wield repaired areas, cleaned the broken screw standoff stud area, and Dremeled out my old a screw sand off from my old cover, then I CA glued an old replacement standoff stud to my used cover.

I also reinforced my replacement standoff stud with a small piece of piano wire inside my old plastic standoff stud .

After the repairs were made, I then did fit check, and stress tested my repairs.

I finally touched up repairs with black spray paint.

I couldnt locate a good used instrument cover. However I did come across a damaged similar part that was in better condition than my part.

Sometimes its necessary to make a partial repair using a similar piece from another part.

I imagine most small non functional plastic parts like this cover seldom get repaired.

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Sweet post. I tried that years ago it did not last as long as I would have liked it too. I learned to plastic weld and that worked better for me. I would buy damaged fairings and cut them into pieces that I needed the welded them back together. You can do such a nice job plastic welding that you can get it almost perfect on the back of the fairing that if you paint it no one will ever know it happened. I got 17 years on my plastic welded repairs now. My how time flies....