Usb Power!

Slowly but surely I am getting my VFR set up for waterproof USB power supplies. I got one installed tonite.

A company called http://3brpowersports.com/products.php  has got just what I want but just like everything these days....they proud of their chit.

I removed all the fairings plus I removed the headlight composite from the upper fairing so I could have some access to measure for the clearance needed for the connector in the location I picked.

They call this the "Panel Tapp" Splash proof usb power port...

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Using a 7/8" "boring bit" I drilled a hole and installed the port.

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Here with the upper fairing installed without the headlight composite you can see it does clear.

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From the battery I wrapped this spot with a triple layer of electrical tape for added protection against chafing.

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Along the frame rail on the left side I zipped tied the wire to the linked brake lines.

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..and then around the head stem.

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I taped this connector to further help prevent any possible corrosion. I used red tape because I ran out of black. :smile:

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They also have available "Tapp Capp" USB cable seal kit. You can use your own usb cable and put this waterproof seal on it. They also have some pre-fabbed sealed cables also but remember I said they're proud of their chit?

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Not actually going to use this cable but here's a pic to give you an idea.

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 Now that I know this location will work, I'm going to put one on the left side as well but that one I think I'll have it connected to a wire that has power only when the ignition switch is on. That way if and when I'm out on a ride and time to stop for lunch I can have power to charge a camera battery while eating and not have the gps draining the battery as well. With this usb port you will have the max power your phone or gps needs to charge. For example..If I'm using the "Navigation" feature on my phone Android, the temporary usb port I had setup wouldn't allow enough voltage to keep the battery fully charged. The battery in the phone would slowly discharge while plugged into the charger. Kinda dumb aint it?
Jeff
Oh...and I wanted a product made in the U.S.A.

I can't see your photos at work, but thanks for posting this...I have been eyeing these USB ports.  I'll check out your install tonight at home.  Thanks!

3BR makes some good stuff.  I've got the bar mounted USB port on my VFR1200.  I didn't take any pictures of the install, but the finished product looks pretty nice.  The wires from the USB port run to the accessory harness under the left faring.

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Looks like good quality stuff...is it 2.1 amps?

Yup.  However they do make a 'less expensive' 1 A version.  If you are going to go the USB route, don't get stingy now and go with the 1 A version.

1 amp wont charge an iPhone 5 and 1 amp would allow my droid to discharge while running gps and blue tooth from it...thanks for the heads up on where to source!

You know, the VFR 800 RWB I just bought a couple months ago has a USB port on it. I have never used it or looked at it to see how it's hooked up. Never had a need for it, I guess. Now you guys have me wondering...I think it's the same brand as the one you installed here. Hmmm....

It also has a Powerlet on it. Never used that either.

1 amp wont charge an iPhone 5 and 1 amp would allow my droid to discharge while running gps and blue tooth from it...thanks for the heads up on where to source!

5V/1A is fine to charge an iPhone 5, you'll need 2.1A to charge an iPad however if that's what you were thinking.  

I am now getting conflicting info, some say that the new auto connectors (with removable lightining cable) reduce to 1amp output when charging the iPhone 5, others repeat what I was told in September (by Bestbuy) when I inquired as to why my old usb/12v connector would not charge my iPhone...

I don't know the answer.

Porrado, do you have a source indicating that the new iphone will charge on an older 1 amp usb connection?

I think it would charge the phone, but I also think if you were to use the apps on the phone while it's on the charger it would still slowly drain the battery while plugged into a 1 amp port. Some apps consume more power than other apps too. There is an app called Navigon. It is a Garmin based gps program you can use on Android phones. (I believe Iphones also) That app will use a lot of power quickly.

Are these USB ports waterproof when they're plugged in? It didn't really look like it, just that they had a cover so they wouldn't get water in when they are not in use.

You know, the VFR 800 RWB I just bought a couple months ago has a USB port on it. I have never used it or looked at it to see how it's hooked up. Never had a need for it, I guess. Now you guys have me wondering...I think it's the same brand as the one you installed here. Hmmm....

It also has a Powerlet on it. Never used that either.

I looked into the Powerlets. They damn sure are proud of their chit. With theirs you have to buy extra "ports" to connect to the power outlet for whatever connection type your device is. Which gets even more exspensive. (if that makes sense) The thing that also made me decide on  3BR was that I found a " local dealer" for the Powerlet products which happens to be a Yamaha dealer. So I went there to have a hands on look to see exactly what I would need. Well turns out they are deginitely a dealer but have NOTHING on display for you to look at. The dealer would still have to order from the Powerlet website....I looked at the counter guy, Chase is his name who also works at the HONDA dealer right next door, and said to him..."Well that's kinda stupid don't ya think?" he said, "Yes it is." and I said "Have a good day Chase."

Are these USB ports waterproof when they're plugged in? It didn't really look like it, just that they had a cover so they wouldn't get water in when they are not in use.

If you have a Garmin they sell a USB connector for the Garmin that has the waterproof boot built onto the wire. (fits over the port like the one pictured when it's not in use)  OR you can buy a kit like the one also pictured in this thread and use your own usb cord.....but once you do that you will not be able to plug that usb cord into a pc or laptop.

You know, the VFR 800 RWB I just bought a couple months ago has a USB port on it. I have never used it or looked at it to see how it's hooked up. Never had a need for it, I guess. Now you guys have me wondering...I think it's the same brand as the one you installed here. Hmmm....

It also has a Powerlet on it. Never used that either.

Another reason I want a permanent USB power source is I have a Scala Rider Q2 system (bought used) You can blue tooth to a smart phone and or a GPS so you can besides talking to other riders, talk on the phone or hear the turn by turn commands from your gps. A USB charging port is a must have.

If you can turn the phone or gadgets off then it will charge.

Ordered two of these...http://www.monoprice...&seq=1&format=2

A great website for audio-video, pc, smart phone cables and chargers. CHEAP!!

http://www.monoprice.com/

I just put a power outlet on my KLR and added a USB adapter - works fine for iPod charging and iPhone.

http://www.twistedth...igarette-socket

Nope.

The lightning cable for the iPhone 5 is 2.1 amp and older auto/ USB adapters that operate at 1 amp won't light the charging indicator.

Looking at my original iPhone 5 charger "cube", and the tiny little gray colored info says "Output: 5V = 1A" (except the bottom line of the equal sign are 3 dots)

Looks like this "waterproof usb port" was an excellent choice. With the other temporary port I had mounted on the mirror my phone would act like it was plugged into a laptop or PC.  Like it was going into a data sync mode. (a lower voltage) With the new usb port it no longer does that. I have been testing it using the "Navigon" app while riding. It remains fully charged and also a big plus the phone (battery) does not get hot like it did with the other charger.

 Just recieved the other "panel tapp" in the mail today. I'll install that tomorrow night. I want to put this one on a keyed power source. Both of these usb ports have a 7.5 amp inline fuse. Any suggestions of what keyed wire/source I should use?

Thanks folks,

Jeff

I got the same thing installed on my VFR. As you can see in the link and photo below.

As I am not the electric expert, I was having concern that this one would continuously converting power from 12VDC to 5VDC if you having no kill switch.

That why I was making sure the battery safe from that concern, there was an On-Off switch installed between the battery and the USB port.

Correct me if I am wrong.

Thanks.

Link to the thread: Click.

Installation location photo:

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You would be correct. I overlooked that. Looks like I'll be installing a switch for the one connected to the battery. :comp13:

Thanks for posting this info.

Jeff

If I may step in, the current draw and power loss from a regulator not plugged into anything is going to be miniscule. With something like this, we're talking milliwatts at most, and even that's just so the tiny chip that does the job keeps humming over.

I wouldn't worry about putting a switch on it out of concern for the regulator itself draining the battery. If you want to avoid accidentally draining the battery because you forgot your phone/tablet/gps was plugged in then THAT is a good reason to put a switch on it. 

If I may step in, the current draw and power loss from a regulator not plugged into anything is going to be miniscule. With something like this, we're talking milliwatts at most, and even that's just so the tiny chip that does the job keeps humming over.

I wouldn't worry about putting a switch on it out of concern for the regulator itself draining the battery. If you want to avoid accidentally draining the battery because you forgot your phone/tablet/gps was plugged in then THAT is a good reason to put a switch on it. 

I agree with you. After some further reading in the installation guide they claim it can drain a small motorcycle battery in 3 to 5 days. What do they consider a small motorcycle battery? I will leave it as is and see how it goes. I did however (just now) order a few waterproof rocker switches.  I do have a battery tender but will leave it off just to see.

...the current draw and power loss from a regulator not plugged into anything is going to be miniscule. With something like this, we're talking milliwatts at most...

:1:

Check the outlet specs for confirmation. I installed a Blue Sea Systems Dual USB port that has a parasitic draw of only 15mA.

http://www.bluesea.com/products/1016

Paul

Back to the 1A vs. the 2.1A phone charging.  I'm more familiar with Android, but I assume iProducts follow the same set of rules... Even though we all know Apple tends to ignore the rules and make up their own... but that’s another topic.

Per the USB standard, a USB port can source up to 1A to any peripheral (e.g. iPhone).  If your iPhone will charge via USB port on your computer, it WILL charge with a 1A USB port.  The kicker here is that the phone will charge VERY SLOW since the phone is charging in USB mode. 

The USB wall wart you use to charge your phone has some logic that will place the phone in AC charge mode which draws the most current.  The upside to this is that your battery will not drain while running GPS and Bluetooth apps. The downside is that you need to make sure that your charger can source enough current to charge your phone (2.1A is typically more than enough).

I'll leave out all the technical mumbo jumbo about how the USB port tells the phone what mode to charge in (USB vs. AC)... mostly since this is where Apple made up their own rules to make chargers proprietary...

Long story short.  1A will work to charge your phone if the screen is off and you are not using it.  2.1A is a much better choice as your phone can still charge while using the GPS with the screen on and jamming out to music via Bluetooth.

I would connect it to the ignition-switch and not the battery, then you don't have to worry about the idle-draw.

I like the Powerlet stuff, although it is pricy. I just put the bar mount BMW style on my CRF direct wired to the battery so I could backfeed with the Battery Tender. It didn't come with anywhere near enough wire, so I had to solder a couple of feet in. Then there is a male and female plug about a foot off the outlet but the rubber boot that covers it faces the wrong way so water could collect in it. I didn't realize until after everything was soldered, taped, routed etc and I didn't feel like cutting it up again so I just packed the connection with electrical grease. I've had Burgman scooters with cigarette sockets in the glove box - you would think this stuff would become standard by now.

I like the Powerlet stuff, although it is pricy. I just put the bar mount BMW style on my CRF direct wired to the battery so I could backfeed with the Battery Tender. 

I didn't even think of that angle. Hmmmm... my BT came with a Powerlet adapter. Would be nice to just be able to plug it in, rather than pull a side panel. 

Yes, I can be lazy. :laugh:

I like the Powerlet stuff, although it is pricy. I just put the bar mount BMW style on my CRF direct wired to the battery so I could backfeed with the Battery Tender. 

I didn't even think of that angle. Hmmmm... my BT came with a Powerlet adapter. Would be nice to just be able to plug it in, rather than pull a side panel. 

Yes, I can be lazy. :laugh:

Just use the pigtail that comes with the BT. Route it up the tank/seat junction. No need to remove side panels.

:1: on Powerlet customer service!

So I have the original Honda 12v installed under the seat. I have now bought a Ram mount with X grip, fixed at the stem. Today I wired a USB cable from the 12v to my Sony phone in the x grip. It starts to charge when I turn the ignition on. Looks fine, but is there anything I need to worry about? Draining of battery while driving? 

3 hours ago, tomfly73

So I have the original Honda 12v installed under the seat. I have now bought a Ram mount with X grip, fixed at the stem. Today I wired a USB cable from the 12v to my Sony phone in the x grip. It starts to charge when I turn the ignition on. Looks fine, but is there anything I need to worry about? Draining of battery while driving? 

As long as you're charging circuit is good, you're battery should be fine. If you haven't put a volt meter on your bike yet, that would be a good thing to add. This way you'll know if you are or will have a battery problem.

Hi, thanks. I haven't put a voltmeter on the bike, but sure will consider. I don't know if I'm running 1A or 2,1 A. So if I understand this right, only 2,1 A will actually charge the phone while driving and using it for for example navigation by GPS?

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I have brought this works great

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Thanks:)



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