My driveway is on a pitch & it's a PIA to put kickstand down, get off bike, take gloves off and hit keypad on wall to open garage, get back on bike etc...
After scratching my head for 30 minutes I was determined to find a safe place on dash to mount the dam garage door opener.....
I may have found the perfect spot (and it's not on the dash) Sometime we can see the forest through the trees....
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It stays put, easy to access sitting on bike and works great... lines up adjacent to battery tender quick connect.
Looks hidden enough, is it going to get too hot there? Quick and easy solution though!
I took that same remote and soldered a couple wires to the circuit board's button contacts, connected those two wires to a Radio Shack 12V relay and the relay to the high beam circuit. Flashing the high beams operates the relay and the garage remote. It's mounted up around the headlight under the fairing.
I understand the "cool factor" of adding a permanently mounted opener, but why go to all the hassle? Just get a keyfob one that you put on the keychain for the bike. It will never get stolen, you have it at your fingertips, and it can even double for one in the cage.
It's not permanently mounted... pulls right off just like if it was on car visor.... and you wouldn't even know it was there unless pointed out.
No taking off gloves then fiddling with your smartphone... ... just reach down and hit button....plus I had it so no need to buy/program another remote :cool:
It's not permanently mounted... pulls right off just like if it was on car visor.... and you wouldn't even know it was there unless pointed out.
No taking off gloves then fiddling with your smartphone... ... just reach down and hit button....plus I had it so no need to buy/program another remote :cool:
Warning... If you park your prize bike behind a electronic garage door opener you must also lock the door from the inside or crooks will cruise the neighborhood with
their own garage door openers to see what opens...
Naaahhhh...just pull the ripcord that releases the chain from the track. Then the motor just runs without opening the door. I do that every night when I get in. In the am just flip the arm back up as I throw a leg over, then hit the button in my pocket.
Naaahhhh...just pull the ripcord that releases the chain from the track. Then the motor just runs without opening the door. I do that every night when I get in. In the am just flip the arm back up as I throw a leg over, then hit the button in my pocket.
if the motor is disengaged by pulling the arm, wouldnt someone be able to open the garage door manually from outside (just sliding it up by hand) ?
Naaahhhh...just pull the ripcord that releases the chain from the track. Then the motor just runs without opening the door. I do that every night when I get in. In the am just flip the arm back up as I throw a leg over, then hit the button in my pocket.
Releasing the chain makes it easier to open door... in fact crooks have learned to shimmy a wire between the door and the seal that will reach the chain
release so the door can be raised manually... some garage doors now come with a protective cover that foils the bad guys looking for a joy ride...
I'm another one that just keeps an opener in my lowest jacket pocket. I just tap my jacket and the door opens before I even get to my driveway. Nothing left on the bike, nothing to fall off, nothing gets too close to hot parts. I also just tap my pocket walking out of the house in the morning and it's open before I get to my bike - same for post ride, just tap my pocket and no messing with my key pad on the garage.
Looks hidden enough, is it going to get too hot there? Quick and easy solution though!
I took that same remote and soldered a couple wires to the circuit board's button contacts, connected those two wires to a Radio Shack 12V relay and the relay to the high beam circuit. Flashing the high beams operates the relay and the garage remote. It's mounted up around the headlight under the fairing.
I *was* going to do that, but instead decided to KISS. So I mounted my door remote under the front fairing above the headlights, and have wires going back to the right-hand switchblock, where I added a waterproof switch (not that it matters) where there's a blank (normally occupied by a light switch on UK/Euro bikes?) All I need to do is a quick press with my thumb, and voila! (A small misspelled musical instrument). Oh - and the door goes up. Or down. Or up AND down if I've taken the scenic route home and my SpousalUnit is approaching from the other drirection and using the remote in her cabriolet. OOps. Marital discord.....
Been on there for some years now, and haven't even needed to change the battery. If it does go flat, I might just wire it up to the battery, seeing as it's a 12V remote.
I *was* going to do that, but instead decided to KISS. So I mounted my door remote under the front fairing above the headlights, and have wires going back to the right-hand switchblock, where I added a waterproof switch (not that it matters) where there's a blank (normally occupied by a light switch on UK/Euro bikes?) All I need to do is a quick press with my thumb, and voila! (A small misspelled musical instrument). Oh - and the door goes up. Or down. Or up AND down if I've taken the scenic route home and my SpousalUnit is approaching from the other drirection and using the remote in her cabriolet. OOps. Marital discord.....
Been on there for some years now, and haven't even needed to change the battery. If it does go flat, I might just wire it up to the battery, seeing as it's a 12V remote.
That is too involved to be considered KISS. Keeping it in a jacket pocket would be KISS.
I've got this remote hardwired to a switch on the inner fairing. The remote is wrapped in a plastic bag and ziptied inside the fairing. I thought about leaving it in a jacket pocket, but I switch between a couple of jackets.
Have you tried to find a remote key fob for your opener?
I *was* going to do that, but instead decided to KISS. So I mounted my door remote under the front fairing above the headlights, and have wires going back to the right-hand switchblock, where I added a waterproof switch (not that it matters) where there's a blank (normally occupied by a light switch on UK/Euro bikes?) All I need to do is a quick press with my thumb, and voila! (A small misspelled musical instrument). Oh - and the door goes up. Or down. Or up AND down if I've taken the scenic route home and my SpousalUnit is approaching from the other drirection and using the remote in her cabriolet. OOps. Marital discord.....
Been on there for some years now, and haven't even needed to change the battery. If it does go flat, I might just wire it up to the battery, seeing as it's a 12V remote.
That is too involved to be considered KISS. Keeping it in a jacket pocket would be KISS.
Only in the initial installation. Having to stop and fumble around in a jacket pocket (especially if it's raining) is not my idea of simple (and what I had to do with my previous few bikes). I ride to work every day, so that's at least three uses per day (usually use the switch in the garage for opening first thing in the morning).
Naaahhhh...just pull the ripcord that releases the chain from the track. Then the motor just runs without opening the door. I do that every night when I get in. In the am just flip the arm back up as I throw a leg over, then hit the button in my pocket.
if the motor is disengaged by pulling the arm, wouldnt someone be able to open the garage door manually from outside (just sliding it up by hand) ?
Sure, if they bring along 5-6 friends. My door without the motor to move it weighs a metric damn ton. My motor failed one time and me and two healthy neighbors unhooked the chain and tried to lift/pry/move it. Couldn't be done. It's not a light AL sectional door...it's one solid piece that pivots up and out into the driveway. If you park too close, it'll hit you/your car on the way up.
Sure, if they bring along 5-6 friends. My door without the motor to move it weighs a metric damn ton. My motor failed one time and me and two healthy neighbors unhooked the chain and tried to lift/pry/move it. Couldn't be done. It's not a light AL sectional door...it's one solid piece that pivots up and out into the driveway. If you park too close, it'll hit you/your car on the way up.
All garage doors can be opened without an automatic opener. If you're having that much difficulty opening it manually (with the opener disengaged), there's something else wrong. This is a common problem for people with sectional wooden doors that have an assist spring let go on them.
No fumbling with it in my jacket pocket - It's as simple as touching my lower jacket. I know it's in that pocket, no gloves off, no unzipping pocket, and I don't have to slow down any more than I would to go over the curb any way.
Sure, if they bring along 5-6 friends. My door without the motor to move it weighs a metric damn ton. My motor failed one time and me and two healthy neighbors unhooked the chain and tried to lift/pry/move it. Couldn't be done. It's not a light AL sectional door...it's one solid piece that pivots up and out into the driveway. If you park too close, it'll hit you/your car on the way up.
All garage doors can be opened without an automatic opener. If you're having that much difficulty opening it manually (with the opener disengaged), there's something else wrong. This is a common problem for people with sectional wooden doors that have an assist spring let go on them.
Oh, I'm sure it CAN be opened, but not with 2-3 strong guys. It weighs too damn much.it's not sectional, it's one solid piece of....oak? Whatever it is, it's solid.
Oh, I'm sure it CAN be opened, but not with 2-3 strong guys. It weighs too damn much.it's not sectional, it's one solid piece of....oak? Whatever it is, it's solid.
I would never encourage anyone to talk in detail what it takes to foil their security and gain access to their prize...
Oh, I'm sure it CAN be opened, but not with 2-3 strong guys. It weighs too damn much.it's not sectional, it's one solid piece of....oak? Whatever it is, it's solid.
I think you missed my point - if a single person is unable to open it when the opener is disconnected, then the door has an issue. If it's THAT hard to move by hand, then the opener is working just as hard. And they aren't designed to have to put out that much effort to lift a door - regardless of type - unless it's a commercial door.
If you have a sectional, wooden door, and the assist springs / torsion spring lets go, you can not lift manually by yourself. That's exacty why the lift springs are there.
Oh, I'm sure it CAN be opened, but not with 2-3 strong guys. It weighs too damn much.it's not sectional, it's one solid piece of....oak? Whatever it is, it's solid.
I think you missed my point - if a single person is unable to open it when the opener is disconnected, then the door has an issue. If it's THAT hard to move by hand, then the opener is working just as hard. And they aren't designed to have to put out that much effort to lift a door - regardless of type - unless it's a commercial door.
If you have a sectional, wooden door, and the assist springs / torsion spring lets go, you can not lift manually by yourself. That's exacty why the lift springs are there.
Indeed. I've got a sectional pressed steel panel door, and twice in the last 10 years one of the springs has broken (different side each time). I found if I disconnected the door from the chain drive, I could lift it with some effort, but with both broken - I don't think so. And I'd imagine that at 94kg the door is much lighter than a wooden one.
I took one of my 3 button openers and soldered some wires to the board, then hooked them up to a momentary double pole toggle switch. Push up to open the one door and down to open the other. The switch springs back to the center. I then hid the opener under the fairing and put the switch on the dash.
Seems like the same principle of the ones in the link, just home made and cheaper.
Well, $60 is what I saw and I suck at soldering. Don't know what universal remotes cost, plus a waterproof switch, plus my terrible soldering...
Couple clicks and 60 bucks later!
Don't know, haven't bought anything. My car has one built in, and the ST has fairing pockets to hold a remote. The one I currently have is three small buttons, so not easy to hit in a pocket.
I'd rather the Mo-Door had wired power so I wouldn't need to bother with batteries.
I've got this remote hardwired to a switch on the inner fairing. The remote is wrapped in a plastic bag and ziptied inside the fairing. I thought about leaving it in a jacket pocket, but I switch between a couple of jackets.
Do bear in mind that plastic bags don't hold up well to ozone, exhaust, etc. so check it often before you find out the hard way that it's no longer water-proof.
Speaking of which, the Mo-Door thing looks OK but watch out, not all those switches are waterproof!
My garage uses RFID tags now so I didn't bother fitting anything fancy on my 8th Gen, but my '97 bikes were set up with a Homelink remote control widget removed from a car's roof console. Fair amount of effort to do it nicely but to me it was totally worth it. See the linky:
![[image: lm-370.jpg]](http://www.waynedaltonparts.com/assets/images/photos/new%20liftmaster/lm-370.jpg){kind=link}