1993 Front Wheel Bearing P/n

Before I install these, can anyone confirm the PN?

I ordered All Balls 25-1077 based on compatibility chart from eBay. But I also saw another chart that didn't include this PN. [image: ne9uzygu.jpg]

Easiest way is to measure them. They should measure ID of 20 mm, OD of 42 mm, and Width of 12 mm.

Thanks. I'll check them when I get home.

You can usually go to your local industrial bearing supply house and get some Nachi, NSK or FAG bearings for a good deal.

Just get the double rubber seals and you're good. Match the # off the old bearings.

Dimensions match up. And... I just realized the compatibility is on the label. DOH.

Next question... Are these sealed or pre-lubed or what? I expected to have to pack them when I installed.

[image: 8a5egymy.jpg]

Those are sealed.

Meaning no maintenance required before I install.

BRad704

Are these sealed or pre-lubed or what?

BRad704

Meaning no maintenance required before I install.

Correct~

They are 6004s. Bog standard radial ball bearings; you can get them almost anywhere and they will have the exact same dimensions. I'd pay more attention to the manufacturer--e.g., I stay away from no-name Chinese brands. Not sure what manufacturer AllBalls uses--I expect they use whichever Chinese brand is cheapest at any given time. Or buy from Honda and you won't have to worry. Of course, there may be no quality difference at all, but you never know...

Ciao,

JZH

They are 6004s. Bog standard radial ball bearings; you can get them almost anywhere and they will have the exact same dimensions. I'd pay more attention to the manufacturer--e.g., I stay away from no-name Chinese brands. Not sure what manufacturer AllBalls uses--I expect they use whichever Chinese brand is cheapest at any given time. Or buy from Honda and you won't have to worry. Of course, there may be no quality difference at all, but you never know...

Ciao,

All Balls uses KML bearings.

made in Chyna.

Yeah. They say KML on the seals.

Haven't gotten to install yet.

I don't clearly see why it is recommended to be both side sealed bearings (2RS), if there's rubber seal from both sides.

I'm thinking about to replace these with E2 signed "efficient" bearings, those only have metal plate sealings (ZZ).

There is always contaminants in the hub assembly, so the -2RS helps.

The seals don't just keep the dust out but also do a good job of keepnig the grease inside the bearing.

Could you tell me what is the best method to install the wheel between the forks?

If I just push the shaft in the forks with the wheel and the spacers, after that tighten the bigger screw (60Nm) and after that the two others (22Nm), the right brake caliper reaches the disc. It seems to me that the shaft goes too deep into the hole of the fork, so the spacing edge of that with the shorter spacer seems to be too long. Also the radial hole(s) on the shaft, which are for I think the disassembly process, are quite deep on the fork.

I've tried the following assembly method:

Inserted the shaft with the spacers and the wheels, and tried to figure it out how it shows well if everything put together, tightened the left fork smaller screw (the side where you put the shaft into the fork). After that tighten all the screws it seems that the shaft needs to be somewhere 2mm "outter" than before to have everything running well, equal spaces in both of the calipers. Is this OK, or I might have some fork related problems?

Could someone measure the spacer lengths, and how much the shaft is out of the fork, measuring it's outter plane from the forks plane?

down load the manual from the "downloads" above.. :comp13:

pay attention to the axle spacers. :fing02:

Yes, the shortest of the two spacers is installed on the left side.