So I have had my '97 for three months now and the summer temps are here, riding not much fun, thought I would see what this bike is all about.
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A little bit of a challange to get the fairings off...but nothing broke! Am missing one plastic rivet and the rubber around one screw.
I was able to take the slack out of the throttle cable that was there when I got the bike and bothered me.
I will put my voltmeter in the dash. And I have already purchased the braided brake and clutch lines, so I will be putting those on
But mainly why I did this was so I can remove the forks and the rear shock and shipped to Jamie Daugherty for him to do his "magic" on them.
So while I have it all taken apart, what else should I do to it? Has just over 25k miles on it. I was thinking replace the spark plugs....have no idea if they have ever been replaced or not. The air filter looks good.....perhaps the fuel filter?
I did manage to split the fuel line between the tank valve and the fuel filter, so I will have to replace that. Is it best to use Honda/OEM due to the 90° turn or just use bulk hose?
Leave the fuel filter unless you know/suspects it is clogged.
Do inspect the wiring/connectors from the stator on the left, through the engine to to right, where it moves towards the back to the voltage regulator, and from there to the battery/starter relais (green/red) in front of the battery.
Inspect the coolant hoses for leaks/cracks (doubtfull but hey she is naked; you might as well go all the way)
Unless you know for a fact that the engine oil and brake/cluthc fluids have been replaced recently, do those as well. (have a look at the rear reservoir for the color of the liquid as well as (kinda jard) the reservois on the clipson (or carefully lift the lids). Clear and light color good/ dark brown not good.
Pull the spark plugs, clean and measure gap. If still good, why waste beer money?
Check that the little bolt on to op the rear subframe that holds the seat latch mechanism is still tight (if not take it out, dab of loctite and fit)
Get a Sebspeed clear clutch cover
Take of the cover over the front sprocket and clean what is underneath (tip, buy kitchen gloves...)
All good suggestions. I have to flush the brake and clutch cylinders/calipers since I am installing the braided hoses...good thing... for when I drained the masters there was "gunk" in the bottom of both...clutch far worse than front brake.
Anyways I got the forks off and getting them boxed-up to go see Jamie along with the rear shock.
Now someone tell me about this: after getting the forks off I turned the tree left and right and there is a definite flat spot in the center....feels like a detent position on a control knob.
Soooo....is this a case of "replace stem bearings with rollers" or is it supposed to be this way???
All good suggestions. I have to flush the brake and clutch cylinders/calipers since I am installing the braided hoses...good thing... for when I drained the masters there was "gunk" in the bottom of both...clutch far worse than front brake.
Anyways I got the forks off and getting them boxed-up to go see Jamie along with the rear shock.
Now someone tell me about this: after getting the forks off I turned the tree left and right and there is a definite flat spot in the center....feels like a detent position on a control knob.
Soooo....is this a case of "replace stem bearings with rollers" or is it supposed to be this way???
Soooo....is this a case of "replace stem bearings with rollers" (Yes) or is it supposed to be this way (No)???
Did not think so.....oh well.....so i got busy once again and got the stem out....sure glad I have a pneumatic impact wrench to get that top nut off since the forks are already on their way to Jamie!!
Got the races out of the head and the bottom one off of the stem....that took alot of hammering but it came off. Should have cut the race with my Dremel tool; would have been easier. Oh well....everything is apart now....ordered All Balls bearing & seals....something else to wait to arrive now.
Removed plug #1....looks good, have not checked the gap yet....but good color.
Do I really have to remove the radiator to get to the front plugs??
Did not think so.....oh well.....so i got busy once again and got the stem out....sure glad I have a pneumatic impact wrench to get that top nut off since the forks are already on their way to Jamie!!
Got the races out of the head and the bottom one off of the stem....that took alot of hammering but it came off. Should have cut the race with my Dremel tool; would have been easier. Oh well....everything is apart now....ordered All Balls bearing & seals....something else to wait to arrive now.
Removed plug #1....looks good, have not checked the gap yet....but good color.
Do I really have to remove the radiator to get to the front plugs??
No
Undo the bolts that hold it down, then wedge a rectangular piece of wood between the outer side of the rad and the valve cover.
No picture, but the width of the piece of wood say an inch+ wider than the distance radiator/cover with all in place. As you rotate the piece of wood, it "pushes" the radiator out of the way
Did not think so.....oh well.....so i got busy once again and got the stem out....sure glad I have a pneumatic impact wrench to get that top nut off since the forks are already on their way to Jamie!!
Got the races out of the head and the bottom one off of the stem....that took alot of hammering but it came off. Should have cut the race with my Dremel tool; would have been easier. Oh well....everything is apart now....ordered All Balls bearing & seals....something else to wait to arrive now.
Removed plug #1....looks good, have not checked the gap yet....but good color.
Do I really have to remove the radiator to get to the front plugs??
No
Undo the bolts that hold it down, then wedge a rectangular piece of wood between the outer side of the rad and the valve cover.
No picture, but the width of the piece of wood say an inch+ wider than the distance radiator/cover with all in place. As you rotate the piece of wood, it "pushes" the radiator out of the way
Don't forget to unclip the oil cooler lines,you get an extra couple of inches.
Okay...I have been looking at the radiator along with the responses above...should not be a problem....have not got to it yet though.
What I did was take the cover off the drive sprocket....instantly reminded me WHY I bought the '84 SABRE when I did....shaft drive...no mess!!!
So now I need to replace the gasket and have not been able to find a diagram, only short descriptions, so anyone happen to know which is the correct drive sprocket cover gasket to get?...11632-MY7-000 shift cover gasket or 11343-MZ7-000 cover, left????? Going by price I would think it is the last one, but IDK.
Thanks again....back to cleaning 18 yrs of excess chain lube......
Yeah...no idea why Honda put a " gasket" between the cover and the engine....vibration maybe???...IDK!
Took the clutch slave off of the cover so I guess I will replace that gasket. Speedsensor is supposed to have one but did not.
Got the cover cleaned-up pretty good.
I also removed the front plugs today. Not to difficult after removing the bottom radiator bolt and lossen the top one....#1 came right out. #3 I had a problem with, so I removed the radiator fan to give the socket wrench a bit more room....and #3 came out.
All plugs look good, but #1 was just past finger tight! Have not checked the gap yet on any of them yet....that is next...along with taking a real good look at the coolant to see if it needs changing or not. Appears to be a light blue....but have not taken a real good look at it yet.
Jamie gets the forks tomorrow, rear shock Friday. New stem bearings are supposed to arrive on July 1.
I may check those valves since I am going to have the time to do so.
Thanks guys.....going to go eat a big bowl of cereal so I can make some new "gaskets".......
All plugs back in and torqued properly. Received the All Balls stem bearings early....got the top race in and the bottom seal and bearing on the tree; will do the lower race today.
Have the braided steel rear brake line and clutch line in place. Drive sprocket is cleaned and ready to go back on.
Decided not to check the valves at this time. Coolant is low so I need to purchase some Honda Type 2 auto coolant as that appears to be what is there...from the light blue color.
Any coolant designed for aluminum engines will be fine. But I've heard that the Honda coolant they sell for their cars is much cheaper than the comparable stuff they sell for their bikes...